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Coral Ridge Crochet Shawl โ€“ Free Colorblock Triangle Pattern

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๐ŸŒธ Spring Fling 2026… Day 17 Pattern ๐ŸŒธ

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Share your finished Coral Ridge Shawl with the hashtags #SpringFling2026 + #CoralRidgeShawl ๐ŸŒธ

The Coral Ridge Crochet Shawl is a free colorwork crochet shawl pattern… an architectural center-out triangle crochet shawl with a Greek-key colorblock border. It's an intermediate crochet shawl pattern designed by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula, worked at a 16 sts ร— 9 rows = 4″ ร— 5″ gauge in CYCA #4 worsted weight yarn, with a finished wingspan of 62″ and a depth of 30″. This crochet wrap pattern doubles as a shawl, a scarf wrap, and (genuinely) a beach sarong. Free pattern on the blog. Ad-free PDF available.

A person models a crocheted triangle scarf with gray, blue, and red patterns, highlighting the textured stitching.

Looking for a free triangle crochet shawl pattern that wears beautifully… feels architectural without being fussy, and lets you play with color in the most satisfying way possible? Coral Ridge is the one. A modern crochet shawl in worsted weight, accessible yarn, traditional center-out construction, and a colorblock Greek-key border that makes the whole thing read like art when it's done. Designed by me and my best friend and business partner Robyn Chachula, this is one of those patterns I keep wearing every time I leave the house.

Hey, bestie ๐Ÿ’› If you've ever wanted a handmade crochet shawl that doubles as a crochet wrap, a crochet scarf wrap, and (genuinely) a beach sarong… this is it. Big enough to actually use, small enough to finish in a few weekends of evening crochet, and the colorblock border is the kind of crochet accessory detail that has strangers asking you about it at the grocery store.

โšก Quick Answer: The Coral Ridge Crochet Shawl is a free triangle crochet shawl pattern… a colorwork crochet shawl + crochet wrap pattern designed by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula. Center-out construction, 62″ wingspan by 30″ depth, charcoal body with a coral, teal, and navy Greek-key colorblock border. Intermediate skill level (a strong next step for any crochet shawl beginner who's finished a basic triangle shawl). Uses CYCA #4 worsted weight yarn (Red Heart Soft) and a size I/9 (5.5 mm) hook. Free pattern below.

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Free crochet triangle shawl pattern with colorwork border โ€” Coral Ridge Crochet Shawl by Marly Bird, modeled close-up to show gray body, blue, and coral Greek-key stitch detail

What You Will Love About This Free Crochet Coral Ridge Shawl Pattern ๐Ÿ’–

๐ŸŒŠ Worsted weight, accessible yarn. Coral Ridge is designed in Red Heart Soft… a CYCA #4 worsted weight 100% acrylic you can buy at Michaels, JoAnn, or Walmart. No specialty yarn hunt, no expensive substitution math. Affordable and machine washable, which is exactly what a shawl you'll wear constantly needs to be.

๐ŸŒŠ One-piece, no-seam construction. The shawl is worked from the center out in one continuous piece. The diagonal edges build themselves, the bottom point is built in, and there is absolutely nothing to seam at the end. You bind off, weave in ends, block, and you're done.

๐ŸŒŠ Architectural colorblock border. Fourteen rows of edging give you a clean Greek-key motif framed by teal and navy bands. The colorwork is structured so the color changes happen at the rhythm of the rows… not in the middle of stitches, which means no tapestry crochet learning curve.

๐ŸŒŠ Wears four ways. Drape it as a classic shawl, wrap it scarf-style, tie it as a sarong over a swimsuit, or pin it as a poncho-style cover-up. At 62″ across, it's actually big enough to wear in real life… not just over the back of a chair.

๐ŸŒŠ Stash-friendly accent colors. The main body is one solid color from start to finish, and each of the three accent colors only takes one ball. If you've already got a sweater quantity of a solid color in your stash, you're more than halfway there.

๐ŸŒŠ A handmade crochet shawl with real visual impact. If you've been making easy crochet shawl patterns and you're ready for something that looks more advanced than it actually is, Coral Ridge is the bridge. It's the kind of modern crochet shawl that gets photographed at every gathering… a one-of-a-kind crochet accessory pattern you'll reach for every season.

Woman models a gray crochet shawl with blue and coral trim, showing triangle shape and detailed edging. Coral Ridge Shawl.

Quick Pattern Overview

๐Ÿ“ Skill level: Intermediate. You'll need to be comfortable working into the third loop of a half double crochet, working a dc into a stitch two rows below, and moving stitch markers as your work grows. If you've made a top-down triangle shawl before, the rhythm here will feel familiar.

๐Ÿ“ Finished size: 62″ wingspan ร— 30″ depth. One size, designed to drape generously across the shoulders and down the back.

๐Ÿงถ Yarn: Red Heart Soft CYCA #4 worsted weight, 100% acrylic, 256 yds / 141 g per ball. 2 balls Color A (#9010 Charcoal), 1 ball each of Color B (#9518 Teal), Color C (#4604 Navy), Color D (#9251 Coral).

๐Ÿช Hook: Size I/9 (5.5 mm)… or whichever hook you need to hit gauge.

๐Ÿ“ Gauge: 16 sts (dc + ch-1 sp) ร— 9 rows = 4″ ร— 5″ blocked.

๐Ÿชก Construction: Worked from the center back of the neck outward in dc + ch-1 mesh, with increases at both side edges and at one center spine stitch on every row. Fourteen rows of colorblock edging finish the bottom and side edges with a Greek-key motif.

Ad-free PDF of the Coral Ridge Crochet Shawl free pattern โ€” Marly Bird modeling the worsted weight crochet triangle shawl with colorwork Greek-key border in front of her yarn studio shelves
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Is This Crochet Coral Ridge Shawl Pattern Right for You?

This pattern is perfect for you if…

โœ… You're an advanced-beginner or intermediate crocheter who's comfortable reading written instructions, moving stitch markers as you go, and working into the third loop of a half double crochet. If you're a crochet shawl beginner who's already made a basic triangle shawl or a granny square blanket, this is the perfect next pattern to graduate into.

โœ… You want a free triangle crochet shawl pattern that's big enough to actually wear. At 62″ across, Coral Ridge is generous enough to drape across both shoulders, wrap as a sarong, or fold scarf-style around your neck as a crochet scarf wrap.

โœ… You love the satisfaction of colorblock crochet without the learning curve of tapestry crochet. The Greek-key motif here is a colorwork crochet pattern that's created with stripes and slip stitches, not by carrying colors across the row.

โœ… You want a worsted weight crochet shawl worked in machine-washable yarn so you can finish quickly and wear it constantly.

โœ… You're shopping for a handmade crochet shawl with a border that does the visual heavy lifting. Coral Ridge is the rare crochet shawl with border detail that frames the entire piece without overwhelming it.

This might NOT be the right pattern for you if…

โŒ You're brand new to crochet. Save this one for after a few projects. (Try the Stoney Creek Sleeveless Tee if you want a simpler beginner-friendly garment first.)

โŒ You want a lacy, lightweight summer wrap. This is a worsted weight crochet shawl with structured colorwork… beautiful, but more substantial than a fingering weight lace shawl. (For lacy, try the Bluebonnet Crochet Lace Shawl.)

โŒ You don't want to block your finished piece. (Blocking is non-negotiable for this one… the colorblock edging chain-2 spaces need to open up evenly for the Greek-key motif to read.)

Coral Ridge free crochet triangle shawl pattern detail โ€” flat-lay showing the heathered gray body and blue and red Greek-key geometric colorblock border

Meet the Designers: Marly Bird & Robyn Chachula

Marly Bird

I'm Marly… a yarn artist, designer, and teacher who's been designing knit and crochet patterns since 2007. I'm best known for the BiCrafty method (teaching knit and crochet together as one practice), for being host of one of the longest-running fiber arts podcasts and YouTube channels in the industry, and for genuinely believing that crochet and knit patterns should be free, accessible, and sized for every body. Coral Ridge is part of an ongoing series of architectural shawl collaborations I've been doing with Robyn Chachula.

Robyn Chachula

Robyn is my best friend and my business partner… the Robyn to my Batman. She's a vital designing partner to me and my business, and she claims marlybird.com as her home too. Her brain works like an engineer's (because before she came to crochet, that's exactly what she was), so when Robyn drafts a pattern, every stitch has a job and every shaping decision has a reason. Coral Ridge is the latest in a series of architectural shawl collaborations we've designed together, and there are more on the way.

Coral Ridge crochet shawl free pattern modeled in a yarn-filled craft room โ€” gray triangle shawl with teal and red textured border by Marly Bird

Understanding Center-Out Triangle Shawl Construction

Coral Ridge is what's called a traditional center-out triangle shawl. You start at the center back of the neck with a tiny 4-chain foundation, then increase symmetrically on both side edges and at one center “spine” stitch on every row. The shawl grows outward and downward at the same time, forming a wide, generous triangle that drapes evenly across both shoulders.

If you've made a top-down shawl before (like the Farrago Crochet Shawl), the rhythm here will feel familiar… rows get longer as you go, you're working on the right side and wrong side alternately, and the marker in the center stitch is your best friend. The difference is what's happening at that center stitch… in Coral Ridge, you increase through the spine each row, which is what gives the finished shawl its symmetric triangle shape rather than a sloped boomerang.

What I love about this construction is that there's nothing to seam. The shawl comes off your hook in one piece, ready for blocking. The diagonal edges already match each other, the bottom point is built in, and the colorblock edging frames the whole thing like a picture frame around a painting.

Coral Ridge free crochet triangle shawl pattern โ€” handmade crochet shawl in gray with blue and coral colorwork border, styled in a cozy craft room

The Color Palette: Why Charcoal, Teal, Navy & Coral Work So Well Together

The name Coral Ridge came out of the colorway itself. Charcoal, teal, navy, and coral… it's the palette you'd see standing on a rocky shoreline at low tide, where the water shifts between deep blue-grey and sun-warmed teal, and a flash of coral pokes out from a tide pool. We wanted the shawl to feel like the ocean wearing its colors all at once.

Here's what makes the palette work technically… charcoal anchors the whole body of the shawl, so the eye stays calm across all those rows of double crochet mesh. Then the border builds outward through teal and navy (both cool, both close in value, which keeps the transition smooth) before the coral steps in as the Greek-key motif itself. Those bright coral keys on a navy ground are what make the shawl read as striking instead of matchy. It's the one true contrast in the design, and it's saved for the most visible part of the border.

Four colors sounds complicated. It isn't. This is a colorwork crochet pattern where the main body stays one solid color from start to finish (no color changes, no carrying yarn) and then all the colorwork happens in fourteen rows of edging at the end. By the time you're working those edging rounds, you've already crocheted enough of the shawl that the color changes feel like the fun reward at the end of the project. It's the gentlest way I know to make a crochet shawl with border colorwork that looks far more complicated than it actually is.

Coral Ridge free crochet triangle shawl Pinterest pin โ€” three poses showing how to wear this handmade crochet shawl with colorblock teal and coral border

See Coral Ridge in Twelve Different Colorways

The sample shawl is charcoal / coral / teal / navy, but the honest truth is… Coral Ridge wears just about every palette you can think of. So we rendered the shawl in twelve different color combinations to help you choose. Cool blues. Warm berries. Autumn neutrals. Jewel-tone coastal. Take a look and tell me which one is calling your name.

Colorwork crochet shawl in six blue and green colorways โ€” Coral Ridge triangle crochet shawl in icy aqua, teal sage, cobalt black, slate teal, turquoise denim, and navy olive
Free crochet triangle shawl pattern in six cream-body colorways โ€” Coral Ridge by Marly Bird in berry, peacock teal, browns, mustard, lavender plum, and emerald teal jewel-tone

If you're not sure where to start, here are the four palettes I keep coming back to…

  • Icy aqua monochrome (top-left, grid 1): Pale ice blue body with white, aqua, and sky blue in the border. Reads like a soft winter morning. This is the one to make if you've been hoarding pastels.
  • Cream + berry (top-left, grid 2): Cream body with raspberry, dusty rose, and burgundy in the border. Romantic, warm, and exactly the kind of shawl I'd wrap up in with a glass of wine.
  • Cream + mustard (middle-right, grid 2): Cream body with golden mustard, soft tan, and deeper goldenrod. Pure sunny autumn… the harvest-table version of Coral Ridge.
  • Emerald jewel-tone (bottom-right, grid 2): Cream body grading into a deep teal triangle with emerald, aqua, and medium teal in the border. Mermaid-coded, jewel-tone, and the most dramatic of the bunch.

If you've got a sweater quantity of one solid color in your stash already, you're more than halfway to a Coral Ridge of your own. The colorblock edging only takes one ball of each of the three accent colors… which makes this a perfect project for those single skeins of “I had to have it” yarn that have been waiting for the right pattern. Tell me in the comments which colorway you're reaching for. I'll happily play yarn-shop matchmaker.

Coral Ridge free crochet triangle shawl draped over the shoulders of a model in a black sweater โ€” colorblock red and teal border frames the collarbone

How to Wear Coral Ridge: Shawl, Wrap, Scarf, Sarong

At 62 inches across, Coral Ridge is big enough to actually wear in real life, not just drape over a chair back. This is the kind of crochet accessory pattern you'll style four different ways before the season is out… here are the four I keep reaching for.

Drape It Over Your Shoulders

The classic shawl move. The point hangs down at center back, the wingspan covers your shoulders and upper arms, and the colorblock border frames your collarbone. Pin it at the front with a shawl pin or a brooch for cooler weather.

Coral Ridge free crochet triangle shawl โ€” Marly Bird modeling the gray crochet shawl with colorwork border in her colorful craft room

Wrap It Scarf-Style

Fold the long edge in half on the diagonal, then wrap once around your neck like a chunky infinity scarf. The colorblock edging shows on the front of the loop, and the point tucks neatly behind you. This is my fall transition outfit cheat code.

Handmade crochet shawl styled as a crochet scarf wrap โ€” Coral Ridge worsted weight crochet shawl in gray and teal with colorblock Greek-key border, layered over a black cardigan

Tie It as a Sarong (or Beach Coverup)

Here's the secret I wasn't expecting when we designed Coral Ridge… it doubles as a sarong. Hold the long edge across the front of your waist (so the colorblock border runs along the top), wrap the two points around your hips toward the back, cross them, then tie them at the front or side. The triangle drape becomes a flattering A-line skirt over a swimsuit or shorts, and the open weave breathes beautifully in warm weather. If you're packing for a coastal vacation, this is the project I'd put on the needles first.

Pin It Poncho-Style

Drape Coral Ridge across your shoulders so the long edge sits at your collarbone, then pin the two points together at your shoulders to create a poncho silhouette. Wear it over a fitted black turtleneck and dark jeans for an instant Saturday-coffee outfit.

Yarn & Materials

Yarn Needed for Coral Ridge

Red Heart Soft (100% acrylic, 256 yds / 234 m, 5 oz / 141 g, CYCA #4 worsted weight). Machine washable and tumble dry. Available at most major craft retailers.

  • Color A: #9010 Charcoal โ€” 2 balls (main body)
  • Color B: #9518 Teal โ€” 1 ball (inner and outer edging bands)
  • Color C: #4604 Navy โ€” 1 ball (Greek-key ground)
  • Color D: #9251 Coral โ€” 1 ball (Greek-key motif)

Approximately 1,280 yards total across all four colors.

Yarn balls and a woman wearing a crochet shawl; close-up shows soft yarn texture, stitch detail, and color variety.

Hook & Notions

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Yarn Substitution Guide: Can I Use a Different Yarn for Coral Ridge?

Absolutely. The pattern was designed in Red Heart Soft because it's accessible and affordable, but any worsted weight (CYCA #4) yarn with about 256 yards per skein will work. A few substitutions I'd recommend if you want to switch…

  • Lion Brand Pound of Love: same fiber (acrylic), more yardage per ball (which means you might only need 1 ball of the body color instead of 2), wide color range.
  • Caron Simply Soft: slightly silkier hand, drapes a bit softer for a more elegant feel.
  • Berroco Vintage (worsted): wool/acrylic/nylon blend if you want a more breathable, slightly fancier finished shawl. Still machine washable.
  • Lion Brand Heartland: beautiful heathered colors for a more rustic palette, same gauge as Red Heart Soft.
  • Cascade 220 Superwash: if you want to go all-wool while keeping the wash-and-wear ease. Slightly heavier hand, blocks beautifully.

Whatever you substitute, please do a gauge swatch first. The pattern is designed at 16 sts and 9 rows = 4″ ร— 5″ in dc + ch-1 space, and if your gauge is off, the wingspan will land somewhere quite different from 62 inches.

Video Tutorials

How to Weave or Bury in Ends

Coral Ridge has eight color changes through the colorblock border, which means eight pairs of ends to weave in at the finish. This quick video shows the two-step method I use to bury ends so they stay buried, even after washing.

How to Wind a Hank with a Swift and Ball Winder

If you're substituting a hand-dyed or specialty yarn that comes in a hank rather than a center-pull ball, this is the fastest way to get it ready for crochet without ending up with a tangled mess on your lap.

Coral Ridge free crochet triangle shawl pattern detail โ€” gray crochet body with colorwork blue, red, and pink Greek-key colorblock border

Free Coral Ridge Crochet Shawl Pattern Details

Skill Level

Intermediate

Finished Measurements

Shawl is 62″ [157.5 cm] in wingspan by 30″ [76 cm] in depth.

Gauge

16 sts (dc + ch-1 sp) by 9 rows = 4″ [10 cm] by 5″ [12.5 cm]; use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

Abbreviations

  • Ch โ€” Chain(s)
  • Dc โ€” Double Crochet
  • Hdc โ€” Half Double Crochet
  • RS โ€” Right Side
  • Sc โ€” Single Crochet
  • Sl st โ€” Slip Stitch
  • Sp(s) โ€” Space(s)
  • St(s) โ€” Stitch(es)
  • Tch โ€” Turning Chain
  • WS โ€” Wrong Side

Special Stitches

โญ Third Loop: Also known as the middle loop or back bar. The horizontal strand located just under the top two loops of an hdc. When working in turned rows, the third loop is on the front side of the fabric facing you.

Crochet Stitch Diagrams

โœจ Following along with the free pattern on MarlyBird.com? You'll have everything you need to make this Coral Ridge Shawl… but if you want the exclusive stitch diagram charts, those are only available in the ad-free PDF version.

You'll enjoy a clean, printable, ad-free experience while supporting Marly Bird's free tutorials and patterns ๐Ÿ’–

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Notes

  • Shawl is worked from the center out.
  • Place a stitch marker in the center stitch and end stitches throughout. Move the center marker as the shawl grows.
  • Do not skip blocking. The chain-2 spaces of the colorblock edging need to open up for the Greek-key motif to read.

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Ad-free PDF of the Coral Ridge Crochet Shawl pattern by Marly Bird โ€” clean printable instructions for crocheters with stitch diagrams

Free Coral Ridge Crochet Shawl Pattern Instructions

Main Body

With Color A, ch 4.

Row 1 (WS): Skip 3 ch (counts as dc), (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in last ch, turn โ€” 5 dc, 2 ch-1 sps.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in first dc (this makes 2 dc in first st), ch 1, dc in next dc, (ch 1, dc) 3 times in next dc, place marker in center dc of last 3 dc made for corner, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, 2 dc in top of tch, turn โ€” 9 dc, 6 ch-1 sps.

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in first dc, (ch 1, dc) in each dc to marked corner dc, (ch 1, dc) 3 times in marked corner dc and move marker to center dc of last 3 dc made, (ch 1, dc) in each dc to last st, ch 1, 2 dc in top of tch, turn โ€” 13 dc, 10 ch-1 sps.

Repeat Row 3 only 30 more times โ€” 33 total rows worked, 133 dc total, 66 dc on either side of center st, 247 sts total, 123 sts on either side of center st. Change color to B, fasten off Color A.

Coral Ridge free crochet triangle shawl pattern detail โ€” gray mesh body with the start of the blue and pink Greek-key colorblock border

Edging

Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in each dc and ch-1 sp across to marked corner dc, 3 hdc in corner dc, move marker to center st, hdc in each dc and ch-1 sp across, turn โ€” 124 hdc each side of center marked st, 249 hdc total.

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first hdc, sc in third loop of each hdc across to marked hdc, 3 sc in marked corner hdc, move marker to center sc, sc in third loop of each hdc across to tch, 2 dc in top of tch, change color to C, fasten off Color B, turn โ€” 126 sc each side of center marked st, 253 sc total.

Row 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc across to marked sc, 3 sc in marked corner sc, move to center sc, sc in each sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn โ€” 128 sc each side of center marked st, 257 sc total.

Row 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc across to marker, 3 sc in marked corner sc, move marker to center sc of 3 sc just made, sc in each sc to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, change color to D, turn โ€” 130 sc each side of center marked st, 261 sc total.

Row 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, *sc in next 3 sc, [ch 2, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc, ch 2, skip 1 sc, sc in next 5 sc] 15 times, ch 2, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc, ch 2, skip 1 sc, sc in next 3 sc*, 3 sc in marked sc, move marker to center sc of 3 sc just made, repeat from * to * once, 2 sc in last sc, turn โ€” 32 ch-2 sps + 100 sc each side of center marked st.

Row 6: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each st and ch 2 over each ch-2 sp across to marker, 3 sc in marked sc, move marker to center sc of 3 sc just made, sc in each st and ch 2 over each ch-2 sp across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, change color to C, turn โ€” 32 ch-2 sps + 102 sc each side of center marked st.

Row 7: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, *ch 2, skip 1 sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 2, skip 1 sc, [dc in next sc 2 rows below (in front of prev ch-sps), sc in next sc, dc in next sc 2 rows below, ch 2, skip 1 sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 2, skip 1 sc] 16 times*, 3 sc in marked sc, move marker to center sc of 3 sc just made, repeat from * to * to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn โ€” 34 ch-2 sps + 32 dc + 70 sc each side of center marked st.

Row 8: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each st and ch 2 over each ch-2 sp across to marker, 3 sc in marked sc, move marker to center sc of 3 sc just made, sc in each st and ch 2 over each ch-2 sp across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, change color to D, turn โ€” 34 ch-2 sps + 104 sc each side of center marked st.

Row 9: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, *sc in next 2 sc, [dc in next sc 2 rows below, ch 2, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc, ch 2, skip 1 sc, dc in next sc 2 rows below, sc in next 3 sc] 16 times, dc in next sc 2 rows below, ch 2, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc, ch 2, skip 1 sc, dc in next sc 2 rows below, sc in next 2 sc*, 3 sc in marked sc, move marker to center sc of 3 sc just made, repeat from * to * to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn โ€” 34 ch-2 sps + 34 dc + 72 sc each side of center marked st.

Row 10: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each st and ch 2 over each ch-2 sp across to marker, 3 sc in marked sc, move marker to center sc of 3 sc just made, sc in each st and ch 2 over each ch-2 sp across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, change color to C, turn โ€” 34 ch-2 sps + 108 sc each side of center marked st.

Row 11: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, *[sc in next 5 sc, dc in next sc 2 rows below, sc in next sc, dc in next sc 2 rows below] 17 times, sc in next 5 sc*, 3 sc in marked sc, move marker to center sc of 3 sc just made, repeat from * to * to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn โ€” 34 dc + 110 sc each side of center marked st.

Row 12: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each st across to marked sc, 3 sc in marked corner sc, move to center sc, sc in each st across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, change color to B, turn โ€” 146 sc each side of center marked st, 293 sc total.

Row 13: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in first sc, hdc in each sc across to marked sc, 3 hdc in marked corner sc, move to center hdc, hdc in each sc across to last sc, 2 hdc in last sc, change color to B, turn โ€” 148 hdc each side of center marked st, 297 hdc total.

Row 14: Ch 1, 2 sc in first hdc, sc in third loop of each hdc across to marked hdc, 3 sc in marked corner hdc, remove center marker, sc in third loop of each hdc across to tch, 2 hdc top of tch, change color to A, turn โ€” 150 sc each side of center marked st, 301 sc total.

Edging Round: Ch 1, sc in each sc across each side to diagonal edge, sc evenly across diagonal edge, sl st to first sc, fasten off all colors, weave in ends.

Coral Ridge free crochet triangle shawl pattern modeled โ€” gray shawl with blue and red Greek-key colorblock border by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula

Blocking Tips

Blocking your finished Coral Ridge is the difference between “really pretty shawl” and “I cannot believe I made that.” Don't skip it. The chain-2 spaces in the Greek-key motif need to open up evenly for the colorwork to read the way it does in the sample photos, and the diagonal edges need a chance to settle into a true triangle.

Here's how to block Coral Ridge two ways… steam blocking (fast) and wet blocking (deeper set):

  • Steam blocking (my go-to for acrylic): Lay the finished shawl flat on blocking squares, pin to the finished measurements (62″ wingspan ร— 30″ depth) using blocking pins. Hold a steam iron or steamer about an inch above the fabric and let the steam open up the chain spaces. Don't press… just steam. Let the shawl cool and dry completely before you unpin.
  • Wet blocking (deeper set, longer dry): Submerge the shawl in cool water with a touch of no-rinse wool wash like Eucalan. Squeeze out excess water without wringing, then roll in a towel like a burrito to wick away more moisture. Pin to size on blocking squares, smooth with your hands, and let it dry completely (usually 24 hours).
  • ๐Ÿšจ Use extra care to avoid overstretching! The dc + ch-1 mesh body will happily grow another six inches if you let it. Pin to the schematic measurements, not as far as the fabric will go.
  • Never block in direct sunlight (it can discolor acrylic), and never use a hot iron directly on acrylic fibers (you can melt them).

(If you're new to blocking, the full step-by-step is in my Blocking Made Easy guide.)

Favorite & Queue on Ravelry

Favorite and queue the Coral Ridge Crochet Shawl on Ravelry so you never lose track of it… and so I can see how many of you are making this one ๐Ÿ’›

Favorite and queue the free Coral Ridge crochet triangle shawl pattern on Ravelry โ€” worsted weight shawl with colorblock Greek-key border

More Free Crochet Shawl & Wearable Patterns You'll Love

๐ŸŒŠ Farrago Crochet Shawl… top-down construction, single self-striping yarn, textured mixed stitches. The cozy meditative counterpart to Coral Ridge.

๐ŸŒŠ Bluebonnet Crochet Lace Shawl… another collaboration with Robyn, lacy and delicate, perfect for fingering weight if you want a lightweight counterpart to Coral Ridge.

๐ŸŒŠ Lyvia Crochet Ruana… a free crochet ruana wrap with a similar drape-it-everywhere wearability factor.

๐ŸŒŠ Sookie Crochet Cardigan… a free size-inclusive crochet cardigan in XS through 5X if you're ready to graduate from shawls to a full layering piece.

๐ŸŒŠ Stoney Creek Sleeveless Tee… a beginner-friendly free crochet sweater pattern if you'd like to add a simple top to your warm-weather rotation.

๐ŸŒŠ Floral Motif Summer Crochet Tee… a free size-inclusive crochet sweater pattern from S/M to 4X/5X using join-as-you-go motif construction.

๐ŸŒŠ Sunday Sideline Crochet Shawl… a free one-skein triangle crochet shawl pattern that's the easy-crochet-shawl on-ramp before you graduate into Coral Ridge.

๐ŸŒŠ Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan… a size-inclusive Tunisian crochet cardigan in a sunny goldenrod yellow that pairs beautifully over a Coral Ridge shawl on a cool day.

๐ŸŒŠ Northwoods Crochet Cardigan… a cozy free crochet cardigan in heathered Lion Brand Heartland… perfect layering piece for the colder-weather rotation.

Coral Ridge Crochet Shawl free pattern FAQ banner โ€” common questions about this triangle shawl with colorblock border answered

Frequently Asked Questions

What does “worked from the center out” mean in crochet?

So here's the thing… “center out” just means you start your shawl at the very center back of the neck and the fabric grows outward and downward at the same time. You're not seaming anything. You're not picking up stitches later. The shawl literally builds itself in one piece from that tiny 4-chain foundation at the top. The opposite approach is top-down (where the whole top edge of the shawl is the foundation row, like the Farrago Crochet Shawl). Both are beautiful… they just give you different shaping and a different rhythm to crochet.

Can I substitute Red Heart Soft with another yarn?

Yes… easily. Any worsted weight (CYCA #4) yarn with around 256 yards per skein will work. My top picks for substitutions are Red Heart Soft (the original, affordable and widely available), Lion Brand Pound of Love, Caron Simply Soft, Berroco Vintage, or Cascade 220 Superwash if you want to go all-wool. The full sub guide is in the Yarn & Materials section above. Whatever you pick, swatch it first… gauge matters more than yarn brand.

What is “working in the third loop” in crochet?

Great question, because this one comes up a lot. When you make an hdc, the stitch has three loops on top, not two. The “third loop” is the horizontal bar sitting just behind (or below) the front two loops. On Coral Ridge, you'll work into the third loop on a couple of the edging rows… and the reason is that working in the third loop creates a beautiful corded, ribbed texture along the row. It looks like a little decorative ridge running along the color-change line, which is exactly what we wanted in this shawl.

What size hook do I need for worsted weight yarn?

Honestly, it depends on you. For Coral Ridge, the pattern is written for a size I/9 (5.5 mm) hook with Red Heart Soft, and that's the hook size most worsted weight yarns suggest on the label. But everyone's tension is different… if you crochet tight you might need to go up to a J/10 (6 mm), and if you crochet loose you might come down to an H/8 (5 mm). The only way to know for sure is to swatch and check your gauge.

How do you block a crochet shawl?

Two methods work for Coral Ridge… steam blocking (the one I use, because it's fast) and wet blocking (deeper soak, longer dry time, sets the stitches even more). For steam blocking, lay the finished shawl flat on blocking squares, pin to the finished measurements (62″ ร— 30″ for this one), then hover a steam iron or steamer about an inch above the fabric and let the steam open up the chain spaces. Don't press… just steam. Let it cool and dry completely before you unpin. For wet blocking, soak the shawl in cool water with a little wool wash, gently squeeze out the water (don't wring), pin to size, and let it air-dry overnight.

How many yards of yarn do I need for this shawl?

About 1,280 yards total across all four colors. Color A (charcoal/body) needs around 512 yards (2 balls of Red Heart Soft), and Colors B, C, and D each need around 256 yards (1 ball each). One ball of each accent color is more than enough for the edging… you'll likely have leftovers, which makes Coral Ridge a great stash-buster project too.

What is the difference between a shawl and a wrap?

Honestly, the shortest answer is shape. A shawl is typically triangular (like Coral Ridge), and a wrap is typically rectangular or asymmetrical. Both drape over the shoulders, both keep you warm, both look beautiful… it really is mostly a shape distinction. Coral Ridge is technically a shawl by that definition, but because of its size it also wears like a wrap when you fold it on the diagonal.

How long does it take to crochet a triangle shawl this size?

For an intermediate crocheter at a comfortable pace, plan on 15 to 25 hours for Coral Ridge from start to finish. Most of that time is the main body… the 33 rows of dc + ch-1 mesh are the longest part of the project. Once you get to the colorblock edging, it actually goes quickly because you're switching colors every couple of rows and the rhythm changes keep things interesting. Spread across a few weeks of evening crochet sessions, that's a very doable project. Some people will finish it in a long weekend.

Can Coral Ridge really be worn as a sarong?

Yes… and honestly, this is the part I'm most excited about. At 62 inches across, Coral Ridge wraps beautifully around the waist as a beach coverup or vacation sarong. You wrap the long edge across your front, take the two side points around to the back, cross them, and tie at the front or off to one side. The open weave of the dc + ch-1 mesh body is light enough to breathe in warm weather, and the colorblock edging frames the top of your hip line like the design was made for it. Skip the swimsuit coverup at Target and crochet your own.

Final Thoughts

Coral Ridge is one of my favorite collaborations with Robyn… architectural and accessible, structured and wearable, with the kind of colorblock detail that makes you feel like you're wearing something genuinely special when you put it on. Make it for yourself, make it for a friend, share the pattern with someone who's been searching for the perfect free triangle crochet shawl pattern in worsted weight… a handmade crochet shawl that wears like a modern crochet shawl should. Please come back and tell me how it turned out. I love seeing your makes ๐Ÿ’›

Tag me on Instagram @marlybird or share inside Marly's Minions on Facebook. I'm always rooting for you.

โค๏ธ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

A cartoon avatar of a person with glasses and a brown bun smiles warmly. Their green shirt and black jacket add a stylish touch, while colorful hearts surround them like loving temperature blankets, stitching together an aura of love and positivity. -Marly Bird
“

Sookie Crochet Cardigan: Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern in Sizes XS-5X

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This is a free oversized crochet cardigan pattern. The Sookie Crochet Cardigan is a free crochet cardigan pattern designed by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula, available in sizes XS through 5X (9 sizes total). Crocheted in panels and seamed together, this oversized cardigan features a gorgeous textured panel stitch pattern with optional side pockets, worked in affordable worsted weight Red Heart Roll With It Mรฉlange. Skill level: adventurous beginner. Originally released during Marly's 2024 Turkey Trot Make-Along and now available as a complete standalone free pattern.

If you have been waiting for a free crochet cardigan pattern that actually fits your body, that you can start without buying anything specialty, and that comes out looking like something you'd buy at a boutique… meet the Sookie.

Hey, bestie ๐Ÿ’›

This cardigan is one of my most loved patterns ever, and it was designed in collaboration with the brilliant Robyn Chachula during my 2024 Turkey Trot Mystery Make-Along.

We built it as a gift for our crochet community… oversized, cozy, perfect-for-fall, and sized from XS all the way through 5X so every single body gets to wear one. The pattern has been living as a multi-part event series on the blog since November 2024, and I am so glad to finally bring it home as one complete, standalone free pattern you can crochet start to finish without hunting across six different lesson pages.

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and it helps keep these free patterns coming straight from my yarn-loving heart to yours. ๐Ÿ’›

Woman modeling Sookie Crochet Cardigan pattern by Marly Bird, colorful striped crochet sweater, size-inclusive crochet cardigan pattern with video tutorials

What Makes this Sookie Crochet Cardigan Special?

It is crocheted in two panels that get seamed together, with sleeves worked separately and joined at the armholes. That panel construction means the project travels with you, no big awkward heavy fabric in your lap, and each panel finishes in a satisfying burst. The stitch pattern is an elegant textured combination of double crochet, single crochet third-loop work, and a beautiful “x” cross-stitch effect that looks way more complicated than it actually is.

If you have been nervous about garment crochet… start here.

Sookie is genuinely approachable for an adventurous beginner, and I am walking you through every step.

Woman wears colorful crochet cardigan; close-up shows textured stitch detail. Project: Sookie Crochet Cardigan.

Looking for the Original Turkey Trot 2024 Lesson Pages?

The Sookie Crochet Cardigan was originally released in six lesson pages during the Turkey Trot 2024 Mystery Make-Along event. Those original lesson pages are still live here on the blog for anyone who wants to revisit the event-paced walkthrough:

THIS post is the complete standalone version...
one blog post,
one pattern,
start to finish.

No hunting across six lesson pages. If you're new to Sookie, this is the easiest way to read the whole pattern. If you participated in the 2024 Turkey Trot and want to revisit the lesson-by-lesson experience, those pages are still here for you.

Looking for an uninterrupted crochet experience? We have that available as well. The ad-free pdf is available on Etsy, Ravelry, and our Shopify Store.

Person models a vibrant crocheted cardigan with bold stitches and cozy texture; pattern pages displayed alongside design.

What You Will Love About This Pattern ๐Ÿ’–

๐Ÿ“ Sizes XS through 5X. Nine sizes with 9-10 inches of positive ease. The Sookie is built for every body, which is something I care deeply about as a designer.

๐Ÿงถ Panel construction. Two panels + two sleeves + a collar. This is how garment crochet SHOULD feel… manageable pieces that come together at the end, not one giant fabric lump fighting you at every row.

๐ŸŽจ A gorgeous textured stitch pattern. The Panel Stitch Pattern combines hdc, sc third-loop, and “crossed dc” stitches to create a subtly layered fabric that looks custom-made. Fancy-looking, approachable actual skill requirement.

๐ŸŽ’ Optional pockets. Yes, please. Add them or skip them, the pattern works either way.

๐Ÿ’ฐ Affordable yarn. Red Heart Roll With It Mรฉlange and Lion Brand Ferris Wheel are both budget-friendly acrylics available at Joann, Michaels, and online. A full cardigan costs less than a single boutique cardigan would.

๐Ÿงบ Machine washable. Throw it in the wash. Done. Perfect for everyday wear, a gift you'll actually use, or a piece you travel with.

๐Ÿ‘ฏ Co-designed with Robyn Chachula. If you know Robyn, you know her patterns are known for clarity, smart construction, and thoughtful sizing. This is the kind of craft collaboration you only get from two designers who've been at this for decades.

Sookie Crochet Cardigan styled casually showing the panel stitch pattern texture and oversized drape

Quick Pattern Overview

๐ŸŽฏ Skill Level: Adventurous Beginner

๐Ÿ“ Finished Size: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). Bust circumference 41-69 inches. Length 21-24.5 inches. Designed with 9-10 inches of positive ease for an oversized fit.

๐Ÿงถ Yarn: Red Heart Roll With It Mรฉlange (100% acrylic, worsted weight, 389 yds/150g) in Curtain Call. Size-dependent: 3-5 balls. Alternate yarn: Lion Brand Ferris Wheel.

๐Ÿชก Hook: Size J/10 (6.0 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.

๐Ÿ“ Gauge (blocked): 18 dc (6 stitch repeats) by 16 rows in Panel Stitch Pattern = 5″ by 7″ [12.5 cm by 18 cm].

โฑ๏ธ Estimated time: 40-60 hours depending on size and speed. A 4-6 week project for most crocheters… perfect for finishing before sweater weather really hits.

Is This Crochet Cardigan Right for You?

This pattern is a perfect match if you're ready for your first (or second, or tenth) crochet garment and you want something you'll actually wear. You will be right at home if you can:

  • Chain, single crochet, half double crochet, and double crochet
  • Read and follow a written pattern
  • Seam two pieces of crochet fabric together (video tutorial linked below if you haven't before)
  • Block a finished piece (steam blocking for this project)

If any of those feel unfamiliar, start with my BiCrafty Bootcamp: Learn to Crochet. It's where my beginners build their foundation before tackling their first garment.

If you've already crocheted a scarf, hat, or small accessory and you're ready to level up, Sookie is a fantastic first cardigan. The panel construction breaks the project into 4 manageable pieces (2 body panels + 2 sleeves) instead of one giant piece fighting gravity in your lap.

โœจ Designer Tip: Panel construction is honestly my favorite way to crochet garments, especially for beginners. Here's why: each panel takes about half as long as a whole cardigan would, so you get TWO “I finished a piece!” dopamine hits before you even start the sleeves. It also means you can travel with your project easily (one panel at a time fits in a project bag), and if your gauge drifts over the course of the project, you can catch it when you finish panel one and adjust on panel two. Full-garment crocheters envy us, truly.

Explore More Free Crochet Cardigan Patterns

If you love crochet cardigans, you are in good company. Here on the blog I've shared several free cardigan patterns over the years… browse the full collection or pick your next project:

Woman in glasses models a pink crocheted cardigan with textured stitches; yarn and accessories fill shelves behind her.
A woman wears a hand-crocheted yellow shawl with openwork stitches over an orange top, standing outdoors.
A woman models a red Tunisian crochet shawl, showing textured stitches; bookshelves and plants are visible behind her.
A woman models a blue Tunisian crochet shawl, showing its stitch detail and texture outdoors against sunlit trees.
Garden Party Crochet Cardigan
Woman models a textured green crocheted shawl with large pockets, shown in a cozy room with bookshelves and plants.
Creekside Crochet Ruana
Woman models a colorful crochet sweater with blue sleeves, highlighting bold stitch patterns and vibrant texture indoors.

What Does “Panel Construction” Mean in Crochet?

Great question, and the answer is the best-kept secret of intermediate crochet garment design.

Panel construction is when a garment is crocheted as separate rectangular pieces (in Sookie's case, two body panels and two sleeves) and seamed together at the end. This is in contrast to “one-piece” or “top-down seamless” construction, where the entire garment is worked as one continuous piece.

Panel construction has real advantages for crocheters:

  • Portability. One rectangular panel fits in a project bag. A full garment halfway through construction does not.
  • Gauge correction. If your gauge shifts during the project, you notice it when you finish panel one, and you can adjust hook size on panel two. You cannot do this with a one-piece garment without ripping out hours of work.
  • Customization. Length, sleeve depth, and ease are easier to adjust per-panel. Sookie's pattern even tells you exactly how to adjust row counts for a custom length.
  • Stitch pattern showcase. Rectangular panels let textured or lace stitch patterns show off without being interrupted by shaping math.
  • Faster perceived progress. Finishing a panel feels like a win. And you get two of those wins before the sleeves.

The one thing panel construction requires is seaming, which is a skill that intimidates some crocheters. Honestly, seaming is easier than most people fear… and I've got a video linked below that walks you through the whip-stitch seam we use in Sookie. If you can sew on a button, you can seam a crochet panel.

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Build Your Skills with This Cardigan

The Sookie is a genuinely skill-building project. By the time you finish, you will have practiced:

  • Foundation half double crochet (fhdc)… a stretchy foundation edge that beats a traditional chain foundation for garment starts
  • Third-loop crochet… the middle bar that creates the horizontal ridge in half double crochet rows, a beautiful textural element
  • Stacked double crochet… a stacked double crochet edge stitch that replaces the ch-3 turning chain for a cleaner finish
  • Crossed double crochet (“x” stitch)… the signature panel stitch that gives Sookie its texture
  • Pocket openings… adding a pocket in-line to an already-worked fabric
  • Panel seaming with whip stitch… joining two finished panels invisibly
  • Sleeve shaping… working decreases at the edges to create a tapered sleeve
  • Collar pickup… adding a finishing collar by picking up stitches around the neckline
  • Steam blocking acrylic… the right way to block an acrylic garment (and why you should never skip it for this pattern)

If any of those techniques are new to you, don't worry. Every one of them has a video tutorial below, and the pattern walks you through step-by-step. This is the kind of project where you come out on the other side a genuinely more confident crocheter.

Need a refresher on the abbreviations? My How to Read Crochet Chart Symbols guide covers the basics. Brand new to crochet? BiCrafty Bootcamp: Learn to Crochet is your starting point.

Banner with "BICRAFTY Crochet Bootcamp" text, cartoon bird holding yarn, yellow background with pink and blue accents.

Want Robyn Walking You Through Every Step? Join the Sookie VIP Workshop

If you want a hands-on, step-by-step walk-through with me coaching you through every part of the Sookie Crochet Cardigan, the full Sookie Crochet Cardigan VIP Workshop is available at Marly Bird House. You get:

  • The complete pattern as a printable PDF
  • Full video walkthroughs for every section
  • Answers to common pattern questions
  • Lifetime access to the workshop inside Marly Bird House

If you are the kind of crafter who learns best by watching, or you're nervous about your first garment and want a designer in your ear while you work… this workshop was made for you. ๐Ÿ‘‰ Get the Sookie Crochet Cardigan VIP Workshop at Marly Bird House

A multicolored crochet cardigan with a matching hood and belt, shown flat with a beaded necklace, features textured stitch detail.

What Is the Marly Bird Turkey Trot (and Other Marly Bird House Events)?

The Sookie Crochet Cardigan was originally released during my Turkey Trot 2024 Mystery Make-Along, which is one of four seasonal make-along events I run throughout the year at Marly Bird House. These events are the BEST way to experience my community in action… everyone working on the same project, getting real-time support, and celebrating finished projects together.

My four annual Marly Bird House make-along events:

  • ๐Ÿˆ Game Day Mystery Make-Along (winter)… a cozy pattern released in pieces during football season
  • ๐ŸŒธ First Fall (late summer/early fall)… a transitional-weather piece to carry you into layering season
  • ๐Ÿฆƒ Turkey Trot Mystery Make-Along (November)… the big Thanksgiving-season release, where Sookie was born
  • ๐Ÿ† Tournament of Stitches (TOS) (every 2-3 years in the spring)… four mystery shawls released over 4 weeks, the longest-running Marly event

Each event is a LIVE experience… I'm teaching, answering questions, and celebrating with everyone as the pattern unfolds. After the event wraps, the full pattern becomes available as a workshop PDF with videos inside Marly Bird House, so you can work through it anytime, at your own pace. The Sookie VIP Workshop linked above is the “graduated” version of the 2024 Turkey Trot event (same content, available anytime).

Want to join the next one live? The newsletter always has the first invite.

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A woman with glasses and curly hair models a colorful crocheted scarf, showing textured stitches and vibrant yarn.

Yarn & Materials

The Sookie is designed for Red Heart Roll With It Mรฉlange, a 100% acrylic worsted weight yarn with 389 yards per 150-gram ball. The sample uses the colorway Curtain Call, a warm heathered red that photographs beautifully. Size-dependent yardage: 3 balls (XS-M), 4 balls (L-3X), 5 balls (4X-5X).

Alternate yarn: Lion Brand Ferris Wheel (100% acrylic, worsted weight, 270 yds/85g). Size-dependent: 4-8 balls. Also a lovely heathered acrylic in a wide color range.

What to look for in a yarn substitute: a worsted weight (CYCA #4) yarn, any fiber, with good stitch definition. Acrylic or acrylic blend is ideal for this pattern because the garment is machine washable and the stitch pattern needs light structure to show off. Avoid slippery super-soft yarns (like pure silk or 100% mercerized cotton) as they may lose stitch definition.

Yarn Alternatives for the Sookie Crochet Cardigan

Can't find Red Heart Roll With It Mรฉlange? No problem. Sookie was designed in a worsted weight (CYCA #4) acrylic, so you have LOTS of options. Below are my favorite affiliate-linked alternatives, sorted by the vibe you want for your finished cardigan. As always… swatch and block before you commit to the full project. ๐Ÿ’›

Self-Striping / Cake Yarn Alternatives (closest to the original Roll With It look)

These give you the same gradient stripey magic as Roll With It Mรฉlange. The colors do the work… you just keep crocheting and watch the cardigan shift through a palette on its own.

YarnFiberYardage / BallWhy it works
Red Heart Roll With It Mรฉlange (original)100% acrylic389 yds / 150 gThe sample yarn. Long color shifts, machine washable, budget-friendly. Color shown: Curtain Call.
Lion Brand Ferris Wheel (original alt)100% acrylic270 yds / 85 gThe pattern's printed alternate yarn. Heathered self-striping look. Need 4-8 balls depending on size. Color shown: Morning Java.
Caron Cinnamon Swirl Cakes100% acrylic~360 yds / 170 gSelf-striping cake. Soft, washable, beautiful color shifts. Easy to find at Michaels.

Solid-Color Worsted Acrylic Alternatives

If you want one solid color (or you want to stripe your own custom palette by hand), these are clean worsted acrylics with great stitch definition. All machine washable, all budget-friendly.

YarnFiberYardage / BallWhy it works
KnitPicks Brava Worsted100% premium acrylic218 yds / 100 gBeginner-friendly, budget-friendly, gorgeous color range. Soft and machine washable. My go-to solid worsted acrylic.
Loops & Threads Impeccable100% acrylic277 yds / 113 gAffordable Michaels store-brand acrylic. Great structure for garments that need to hold their shape. Wide color range.
Lion Brand Heartland100% acrylic251 yds / 142 gSoft, heathered solid colors named after U.S. National Parks. Beautiful drape, machine washable. A reader favorite for cardigans.

Wool and Wool-Blend Options (for natural fiber lovers)

If you'd rather stitch in wool, these are my favorite worsted-weight wool and wool-blend picks. Wool gives you more warmth, more stitch memory, and a slightly different drape than acrylic. Important blocking note: wool and wool blends usually respond better to WET blocking than steam blocking… check your yarn label. (The pattern as written is steam-blocked because the sample is acrylic.)

YarnFiberYardage / BallWhy it works
WeCrochet Mighty Stitch Worsted80% acrylic / 20% superwash wool208 yds / 100 gThe best of both worlds: machine washable like an acrylic, with the warmth and bloom of wool. Great middle-ground yarn for first-time wool crocheters.
Berroco Vintage Worsted52% acrylic / 40% wool / 8% nylon218 yds / 100 gWool/acrylic blend with nylon for added durability. Machine washable. Slightly more rustic look than pure acrylic. Drapes beautifully.
Lion Brand Wool-Ease80% acrylic / 20% wool197 yds / 85 gThe classic workhorse wool-blend acrylic. Reliable structure, easy to find at Michaels, great for everyday wear.
KnitPicks Wool of the Andes Worsted100% Peruvian Highland wool110 yds / 50 gFor natural-fiber purists. 100% wool, gorgeous stitch definition, traditional handfeel. Need 2 balls per “Roll With It” ball. Hand-wash recommended.
Cascade 220 Superwash100% superwash wool220 yds / 100 gPremium superwash wool, machine washable. Excellent stitch memory and structure. A splurge yarn for a cardigan you'll keep for years.

Hook: Size J/10 (6.0 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge. I love KnitPicks hooks for projects like this because the ergonomic handle makes 40+ hours of crochet much easier on your hands.

Notions: these are items that are needed to make your crochet cardigan amazing and the experience even better!

โญ๏ธ Marly Bird Amazon Storefront โญ๏ธ
Variegated orange, red, brown, and gold yarn with a person modeling a textured crochet cardigan made from it. Close-up of the Sookie Crochet Cardigan panel stitch pattern showing the crossed double crochet texture in Red Heart Roll With It Mรฉlange Curtain Call

Video Tutorials

Every technique you need is covered in my video library:

Person models a vibrant crocheted cardigan with bold stitches and cozy texture; pattern pages displayed alongside design.

๐Ÿ“Œ Get the Sookie Crochet Cardigan PDF
(Access inside the Marly Bird House with unlimited viewing and bonus material)

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Love the Pattern but Want an Ad-Free PDF?

The full pattern below is 100% free here on the blog… thank you for supporting the site by reading through the ads! If you'd rather have a clean, printable, ad-free PDF, or you want the full VIP workshop experience with video walkthroughs, here are your options:

Marly Bird wearing the Sookie Crochet Cardigan in Red Heart Roll With It Mรฉlange Curtain Call, a free oversized crochet cardigan pattern in sizes XS-5X

Sookie Crochet Cardigan โ€” Pattern Details

Designers

Designed by Robyn Chachula and Marly Bird

Skill Level

Adventurous Beginner

Measurements

To Fit Size: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) with 9-10″ [23-25.5 cm] of positive ease. Sample shown has 9″ of positive ease in size 3X.

Finished Measurements:
Bust circumference: 41 (44, 47, 51, 56, 59, 63, 66, 69)” [104, 112, 119.5, 129.5, 142, 150, 160, 167.5, 175 cm]
Length (shoulder to edge): 21 (21, 21, 22.75, 22.75, 22.75, 24.5, 24.5, 24.5)” [53.5, 53.5, 53.5, 58, 58, 58, 62, 62, 62 cm]

Gauge

BLOCKED: 18 dc (6 stitch repeats) by 16 rows in Panel Stitch Pattern = 5″ [12.5 cm] by 7″ [18 cm]. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

Materials

Crochet Yarn: Red Heart Roll With It Mรฉlange (100% Acrylic, 389 yds / 356 m, 5.29 oz / 150 g, CYCA #4 worsted)
Curtain Call: 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) balls

Alternate Yarn: Lion Brand Ferris Wheel (100% Acrylic, 270 yds / 247 m, 3 oz / 85 g, CYCA #4 worsted)
Morning Java: 4 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) balls

Crochet Hook: Size J/10 [6.0 mm] or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, basic blocking supplies, steamer or steam iron.

Abbreviations

  • Ch โ€“ Chain(s)
  • Dc โ€“ Double Crochet
  • Dc2tog โ€“ Double Crochet Two Together
  • Fhdc โ€“ Foundation Half Double Crochet (see special stitches)
  • Fsc โ€“ Foundation Single Crochet (see special stitches)
  • Hdc โ€“ Half Double Crochet
  • Hdc2tog โ€“ Half Double Crochet Two Together
  • PM โ€“ Place Marker
  • RS โ€“ Right Side
  • Sc โ€“ Single Crochet
  • Sc2tog โ€“ Single Crochet Two Together
  • Sl st โ€“ Slip Stitch
  • Sp(s) โ€“ Space(s)
  • St(s) โ€“ Stitch(es)
  • Stacked Dc โ€“ Stacked Double Crochet (see special stitches)
  • Tch โ€“ Turning Chain
  • WS โ€“ Wrong Side

Special Stitches

โญ๏ธ Double Crochet 2 Together (Dc2tog): *Yarn over hook, insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook; repeat from * in next st indicated, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. (1 decrease)

โญ๏ธ Foundation Half Double Crochet (fhdc):
First fhdc: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), yarn over hook, insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook (forming a chain, place marker in chain just made), yarn over and draw through 3 loops on hook (forming the half double crochet).
Next fhdc: Yarn over hook, insert hook into base of previous stitch (in the “chain” space), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook (forming a chain), yarn over and draw through 3 loops on hook (forming the next half double crochet). Repeat directions for desired amount of sts.

โญ๏ธ Foundation Single Crochet (fsc):
First fsc: Ch 2, insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook (forming a chain), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (forming the single crochet).
Next fsc: Insert hook into base of previous stitch (in the “chain” space), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook (forming a chain), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (forming the next single crochet). Repeat directions for desired amount of sts.

โญ๏ธ Half Double Crochet 2 Together (Hdc2tog): Yarn over hook, insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into next st indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through all 4 loops on hook. (1 decrease)

โญ๏ธ Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog): *Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop; repeat from * in next stitch indicated, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. (1 decrease)

โญ๏ธ Third Loop: Also known as middle or back bar. Horizontal strand located under the top 2 loops. When working in turned rows the third loop is on the front side of the fabric facing you.

โญ๏ธ Stacked Double Crochet (Stacked Dc): (Do not ch 1 prior to making the first sc) Sc in first stitch, insert hook in between two legs of the base, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook.

Person models a vibrant crocheted cardigan with bold stitches and cozy texture; pattern pages displayed alongside design.

Crochet Stitch Diagrams

โœจ Following along with the free pattern on MarlyBird.com? Youโ€™ll have everything you need to make this cardigan… but if you want the exclusive stitch diagram charts, those are only available in the ad-free PDF version.

Youโ€™ll enjoy a clean, printable, ad-free experience while supporting Marly Birdโ€™s free tutorials and patterns ๐Ÿ’–

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Schematic

Sookie Crochet Cardigan schematic showing panel construction โ€” two rectangular front and back panels with optional pockets for the free crochet cardigan pattern
Sookie Crochet Cardigan sleeve schematic showing tapered trapezoidal sleeve shape with finished width and height measurements
Sookie Crochet Cardigan seaming schematic showing panel join lines with the do-not-seam armhole marked for the plus size crochet cardigan pattern

Notes

  • Directions are for size XS; changes for sizes S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL are in parentheses. When only one number is given, that number applies to all sizes.
  • Sweater is oversized. If you prefer a tighter fit, pick a size closer to your bust circumference. The sample shown is the 3X size with 9″ of positive ease.
  • Gauge listed is BLOCKED. The stitch pattern unblocked is much shorter compared to when it is blocked. Make sure you are choosing your hook size based on a blocked swatch.
  • Make a gauge swatch by making 20 fhdc then following the panel directions for Rows 2-16 without a hole for the pockets.
  • Sweater is worked in panels and seamed. The collar is crocheted onto the project at the end.
  • If you do not want to start your panel with foundation hdc, you can chain and hdc instead. Make sure you have the same number of hdc as Row 1 calls for fhdc.
  • We recommend steam blocking with both yarns listed. We do NOT recommend “pin and spray” blocking or wet blocking for the yarn used. If you substitute another yarn, spray or wet blocking might work. Blocking is required and not optional for this project.

Gauge Swatch

To make a gauge swatch, start with 20 fhdc. Continue with Rows 2-9 of the Panel Instructions below twice. Fasten off. Pin to a blocking board (or other surface), opening up the lace portion of the swatch. Measure 18 sts across and compare to gauge listed of 5″ [10 cm]. Measure 16 rows and compare to gauge listed of 7″ [18 cm]. If your swatch is measuring larger than the listed gauge, make another swatch with a smaller hook. If your swatch is measuring smaller than the listed gauge, make another swatch with a larger hook.

โœจ Designer Tip: Do NOT skip the gauge swatch on this pattern. I know, I know… “do I have to?” Yes. Here's why: the Panel Stitch Pattern is quite short unblocked and stretches significantly when steam blocked. A hook size that looks right pre-blocking will give you the wrong finished dimensions post-blocking. Make the swatch, block it, then decide your hook. 30 extra minutes now saves you from a cardigan that's 4 inches too small (or 4 inches too big) later.

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Marly Bird wearing the Sookie Crochet Cardigan in Red Heart Roll With It Mรฉlange Curtain Call, a free oversized crochet cardigan pattern in sizes XS-5X

Sookie Crochet Cardigan โ€” Pattern Instructions

Panels (Make 2)

Row 1 (RS): 32 (35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56) fhdc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across, turn.
Row 3: Stacked dc in first sc, *skip 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc in 3rd sc back from previous dc (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last sc, dc in last sc, turn.
Row 4: Stacked dc in first dc, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp across, dc in last dc, turn.
Row 5: Stacked dc in first dc, *skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc made in 3rd dc back from previous dc made (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last dc, dc in last dc, turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first dc, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across, sc in last dc, turn.
Row 7: Ch 1, hdc in each sc across, turn.
Row 8: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across, turn.
Row 9: Ch 1, hdc in each sc across, turn.
Rows 10-15: Repeat Rows 2-7.

Pocket Opening

Note: The pocket is optional. If you do not want pockets, Repeat Rows 8-9 instead.

Row 16: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of the next 7 (8, 10, 11, 13, 14, 16, 17, 19) hdc, sl st in the third loop of the next 18 hdc, sc in the third loop of each remaining hdc across, turn.
Row 17: Ch 1, hdc in each sc to sl sts, 18 fhdc, skip all sl sts, hdc in each remaining sc across, turn.

Remainder of Panel

Repeat Rows 2-9 of the Panel 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 11) times.
Repeat Rows 2-8 once more, do not fasten off.

Edging Round: Ch 1, sc in each sc across last row to last sc, 3 sc in last sc, place marker in middle sc, turn to work on edge, sc evenly along long edge to foundation, 3 sc in first st of the foundation, place marker in middle sc, turn to work on foundation, sc in each remaining st across to last, 3 sc in last st, place marker in middle sc, turn to work on edge, sc evenly along long edge to beginning, 2 sc in same st as first sc of round, place marker in 2nd sc, sl st to first st, fasten off, weave in ends.

Block Panels

Pin panels to schematic size. Using either the lowest heat setting on your steam iron or a steamer, steam panels to block and allow to dry.

โœจ Designer Tip: Block your panels BEFORE you start the sleeves. I know it feels like you want to power through the whole project, but blocking first lets you confirm your dimensions are correct before you commit 15+ more hours to sleeves. If your gauge drifted and the panels are coming out a size bigger or smaller than planned, this is when you catch it… and you can adjust the sleeve starting row count to match.

Sleeves (Make 2) โ€” XS, S, M Size

Row 1 (RS): 65 fhdc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across, turn.
Row 3: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first sc, dc in next 3 sc, *skip 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc in 3rd sc back from previous dc (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 4 sc, dc in next 2 sc, dc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 19 ch-2 sps + 3 sts each end.
Row 4: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, dc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp across to last 3 sts, dc in next st, dc2tog over last 2 sts, turn โ€” 61 dc.
Row 5: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first dc, dc in next dc, *skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc made in 3rd dc back from previous dc made (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 2 dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, turn โ€” 19 ch-2 sps + 1 st each end.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog over first dc and ch-2 sp, 2 sc in same ch-2 sp, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across to last ch-2 sp, 2 sc in last ch-2 sp, sc2tog over last ch-2 sp and dc, turn โ€” 57 sc.
Row 7: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 55 hdc.
Row 8: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across, turn.
Row 9: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 53 hdc.

Repeat Rows 2-9 once, Repeat Rows 2-8 once more โ€” 31 sc. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Sleeves (Make 2) โ€” L, XL, 2X Size

Row 1 (RS): 74 fhdc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across, turn.
Row 3: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first sc, dc in next 3 sc, *skip 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc in 3rd sc back from previous dc (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 4 sc, dc in next 2 sc, dc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 22 ch-2 sps + 3 sts each end.
Row 4: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, dc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp across to last 3 sts, dc in next st, dc2tog over last 2 sts, turn โ€” 70 dc.
Row 5: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, dc in next dc, *skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc made in 3rd dc back from previous dc made (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 2 dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, turn โ€” 22 ch-2 sps + 1 st each end.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog over first dc and ch-2 sp, 2 sc in same ch-2 sp, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across to last ch-2 sp, 2 sc in last ch-2 sp, sc2tog over last ch-2 sp and dc, turn โ€” 66 sc.
Row 7: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 64 hdc.
Row 8: Ch 1, sc2tog in the third loop over the first 2 hdc, sc in the third loop of each hdc across to last 2 hdc, sc2tog in the third loop over the last 2 hdc, turn โ€” 62 sc.
Row 9: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 60 hdc.
Row 10: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across, turn.
Row 11: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first sc, dc in next 2 sc, *skip 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc in 3rd sc back from previous dc (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 3 sc, dc in next sc, dc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 18 ch-2 sps + 2 sts each end.
Row 12: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, dc in next st, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp across to last 2 sts, dc2tog over last 2 sts, turn โ€” 56 dc.
Row 13: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first dc, dc in next 3 dc, *skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc made in 3rd dc back from previous dc made (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 4 dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, turn โ€” 16 ch-2 sps + 3 sts each end.
Row 14: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 dc, sc in next sc, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across to last 3 dc, sc in next dc, sc2tog over last 2 dc, turn โ€” 52 sc.
Row 15: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 50 hdc.
Row 16: Ch 1, sc2tog in the third loop over the first 2 hdc, sc in the third loop of each hdc across to last 2 hdc, sc2tog in the third loop over the last 2 hdc, turn โ€” 48 sc.
Row 17: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 46 hdc.
Row 18: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across, turn.
Row 19: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first sc, dc in next sc, *skip 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc in 3rd sc back from previous dc (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 2 sc, dc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 14 ch-2 sps + 1 st each end.
Row 20: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp across to last ch-2 sp, 2 dc in last ch-2 sp, dc2tog over last ch-2 sp and dc, turn โ€” 42 dc.
Row 21: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first dc, dc in next 2 dc, *skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc made in 3rd dc back from previous dc made (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 3 dc, dc in next dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, turn โ€” 12 ch-2 sps + 2 sts each end.
Row 22: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 dc, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across to last 2 dc, sc2tog over last 2 dc, turn โ€” 38 sc.
Row 23: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 36 hdc.
Row 24: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Sleeves (Make 2) โ€” 3X, 4X, 5X Size

Row 1 (RS): 83 fhdc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog in the third loop over the first 2 hdc, sc in the third loop of each hdc across to last 2 hdc, sc2tog in the third loop over the last 2 hdc, turn โ€” 81 sc.
Row 3: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first sc, dc in next 2 sc, *skip 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc in 3rd sc back from previous dc (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 3 sc, dc in next sc, dc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 25 ch-2 sps + 2 sts each end.
Row 4: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, dc in next st, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp across to last 2 sts, dc2tog over last 2 sts, turn โ€” 77 dc.
Row 5: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, dc in next 3 dc, *skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc made in 3rd dc back from previous dc made (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 4 dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, turn โ€” 23 ch-2 sps + 3 sts each end.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 dc, sc in next dc, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across to last 3 dc, sc in next dc, sc2tog over last 2 dc, turn โ€” 73 sc.
Row 7: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 71 hdc.
Row 8: Ch 1, sc2tog in the third loop over the first 2 hdc, sc in the third loop of each hdc across to last 2 hdc, sc2tog in the third loop over the last 2 hdc, turn โ€” 69 sc.
Row 9: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 67 hdc.
Row 10: Ch 1, sc2tog in the third loop over the first 2 hdc, sc in the third loop of each hdc across to last 2 hdc, sc2tog in the third loop over the last 2 hdc, turn โ€” 65 sc.
Row 11: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first sc, dc in next 3 sc, *skip 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc in 3rd sc back from previous dc (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 4 sc, dc in next 2 sc, dc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 19 ch-2 sps + 3 sts each end.
Row 12: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, dc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp across to last 3 dc, dc in next dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, turn โ€” 61 dc.
Row 13: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first dc, dc in next dc, *skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc made in 3rd dc back from previous dc made (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 2 dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, turn โ€” 19 ch-2 sps + 1 st each end.
Row 14: Ch 1, sc2tog over first dc and ch-2 sp, 2 sc in same ch-2 sp, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across to last ch-2 sp, 2 sc in last ch-2 sp, sc2tog over last ch-2 sp and dc, turn โ€” 57 sc.
Row 15: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 55 hdc.
Row 16: Ch 1, sc2tog in the third loop over the first 2 hdc, sc in the third loop of each hdc across to last 2 hdc, sc2tog in the third loop over the last 2 hdc, turn โ€” 53 sc.
Row 17: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 51 hdc.
Row 18: Ch 1, sc2tog in the third loop over the first 2 hdc, sc in the third loop of each hdc across to last 2 hdc, sc2tog in the third loop over the last 2 hdc, turn โ€” 49 sc.
Row 19: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first sc, dc in next sc, *skip 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc in 3rd sc back from previous dc (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 2 sc, dc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 15 ch-2 sps + 1 st each end.
Row 20: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp across to last ch-2 sp, 2 dc in last ch-2 sp, dc2tog over last ch-2 sp and dc, turn โ€” 45 dc.
Row 21: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first dc, dc in next 2 dc, *skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc made in 3rd dc back from previous dc made (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 3 dc, dc in next dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, turn โ€” 13 ch-2 sps + 2 sts each end.
Row 22: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 dc, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across to last 2 dc, sc2tog over last 2 dc, turn โ€” 41 sc.
Row 23: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn โ€” 39 hdc.
Row 24: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Block Sleeves

Pin sleeves to schematic size. Using either the lowest heat setting on your steam iron or a steamer, steam sleeves to block and allow to dry.

Back Seam

Join yarn to the Left Panel on the long edge in the marked corner (marked with a star on the panel schematic) with a sl st.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next sc, *ch 1, skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc; repeat from * 20 (20, 20, 21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 23) times total, turn โ€” 42 (42, 42, 44, 44, 44, 48, 48, 48) dc + 20 (20, 20, 21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 23) ch-1 sps.

Note: If you have customized the length of your project, you will need to adjust the amount of sts you have on Row 1. You will want the finished Row 1 to be 2″ [5 cm] less than half the total length (2″ less than the length of the shoulder to the bottom edge). This means you will either need to crochet more or less of Row 1 across the panel.

Row 2: Ch 1, *sc between next 2 dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * across to last 2 dc, sc between last 2 dc, sc in last dc, turn.
Row 3: Stacked dc in first sc, dc in next sc, *ch 1, skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc; repeat from * across, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, *sc between next 2 dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * across to last 2 dc, sc between last 2 dc, sc in last dc. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Join yarn to the Right Panel on the long edge 62 (62, 62, 65, 65, 65, 71, 71, 71) sts across from the corner (including the marked corner st) with a sl st.

Note: If you have customized the length of your project, you will need to adjust the amount of sts you have on Row 1. You will want the finished Row 1 to be 2″ [5 cm] less than half the total length. This means you will need to adjust where you join your yarn. Count the number of stitches on the opposite side and join there for this side.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next sc, *ch 1, skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc; repeat from * across to corner, turn โ€” 42 (42, 42, 44, 44, 44, 48, 48, 48) dc + 20 (20, 20, 21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 23) ch-1 sps.
Row 2: Ch 1, *sc between next 2 dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * across to last 2 dc, sc between last 2 dc, sc in last dc, turn.
Row 3: Stacked dc in first sc, dc in next sc, *ch 1, skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc; repeat from * across, turn.

XS, S, M, L Size โ€” Fasten off with long tail for seaming.
XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X โ€” Repeat Rows 2-3 once, fasten off with long tail for seaming.

Holding right sides together of each panel, whip stitch back seam.

Side Seam

Join yarn to the Left Panel on the long edge in the marked corner with a sl st.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next sc, *ch 1, skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc; repeat from * 13 (13, 13, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14) times total, fasten off โ€” 28 (28, 28, 30, 30, 30, 30, 30, 30) dc + 13 (13, 13, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14) ch-1 sps.

Holding right sides together of each panel, whip stitch side seam. Repeat on other side.

Note: If you have customized the length of your project, you will need to adjust the amount of sts you have on Row 1. The side seam is the distance from the bottom edge to the start of the sleeve. The easiest way to do this is to fold your panel and sleeve panel in half. Line the fold line of the sleeve and panel up at the shoulder. With a stitch marker, mark off the underside of the sleeve on the panel. Then crochet Row 1 to as close to that marker as you can.

Colorful sookie crochet cardigan with textured stitches, worn over a white shirt; curly hair visible from behind.

Collar

Join yarn to the Right Panel on the long edge in the marked corner with a sl st.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next sc, *ch 1, skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc*; repeat from * across panel to back seam (see Note 1 below), [ch 1, 2 dc in edge of sc row] 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) times, ch 1, dc in next 2 sc on next panel, repeat from * to * across panel to next corner (see Note 2 below), turn.

Note 1: We on purpose did not force you to count the number of stitches you have on the panel edging, so you might not end perfectly at your back seam.

If you end with 2 additional stitches before the back seam: ch 1, skip 1, 2 dc in last st before the back seam. Crochet across the back seam as written. In hopes you crocheted the same number of sts on the second panel edging, repeat directions in reverse. 2 dc in first st after back seam, ch 1, skip 1 st, then continue with pattern.

If you end with 1 additional stitch before the back seam: dc in that extra st. Crochet across the back seam as written. In hopes you crocheted the same number of sts on the second panel edging, dc in first 3 sts after back seam, then continue with pattern.

Note 2: If you did not end perfectly at the corner, you can rip out back to the back seam and follow directions above or try the options below.

If you ended 1 st short: rip out the previous 3 sts. Ch 1, do not skip 1, dc in next 2 sc, ch 1, do not skip 1, dc in next sc, dc in corner sc.

If you ended 2 sts short: ch 1, skip 1 st, 2 dc in corner sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, *sc between next 2 dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * across to last 2 dc, sc between last 2 dc, sc in last dc, turn.
Row 3: Stacked dc in first sc, dc in next sc, *ch 1, skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc; repeat from * across, turn.

Repeat Rows 2-3 once (or desired amount), Repeat Row 2 once more.
Row 7: Sl st in each sc across, fasten off, weave in ends.

Sleeve Seaming

Pin sleeve to armhole opening with right sides facing. Whip stitch sleeve to armhole opening. Whip stitch under arm seam.

Cuff

Join yarn to the underarm Sleeve with sl st.

Round 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next sc, ch 1, *skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc, ch 1; repeat from * around (see Note below), sl st to top of tch, turn.

Note: If you did not end perfectly back at the beginning, here are a few things you can try:

If you ended without a st between your beginning ch-3 and the last dc: ch 1 and join with a sl st. Essentially do not worry about having a st to skip or not when you get back around.

If you ended with 2 sts between the last dc and beginning ch: rip out the last ch 1 and dc. Dc2tog over the next 2 sts, ch 1, skip the last st and join to the beginning ch with a sl st.

Round 2: Ch 1, *sc between next 2 dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, sl st to first sc, turn.
Round 3: Stacked dc in first sc, dc in next sc, ch 1, *skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc, ch 1; repeat from * around, sl st to first dc, turn.

Repeat Rounds 2-3 for desired length, Repeat Round 2 once more.
Last Round: Sl st in each sc around, fasten off, weave in ends.

Pocket Square (Make 2)

Chain 24.

Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook (skipped chains count as a dc), dc in each ch across, turn โ€” 24 dc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each dc across including the top of the t-ch, turn.
Row 3: Stacked dc in first sc, dc in each sc across, turn.

Repeat Rows 2-3 six more times (or to desired length). Fasten off leaving a long tail for seaming.

Center pocket square on inside of cardigan at pocket opening. Whip stitch top of pocket square to bottom of foundation stitches in the opening. Stitch remaining sides of the square to the inside fabric of the cardigan.

Finishing

Weave in all remaining loose ends. Give the whole cardigan one final light steam block if needed to even out any areas where stitches settled during seaming.

Woman modeling the free Sookie Crochet Cardigan pattern by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula โ€” colorful striped size inclusive crochet cardigan XS-5X with video tutorials

Blocking Tips

Blocking is NOT optional for the Sookie. I mean it. The Panel Stitch Pattern looks shorter unblocked than it does post-block, and the whole cardigan's finished dimensions are measured with a blocked swatch. Steam blocking is the method for both Red Heart Roll With It Mรฉlange and Lion Brand Ferris Wheel… do NOT wet block or “pin and spray” block either of these acrylics, it can damage the fabric.

Pin each piece to its schematic dimensions on a blocking board (or a clean towel on any flat surface). Use the lowest heat setting on your steam iron or a steamer, held 2-3 inches above the fabric, and steam the full surface gently. Do NOT press the iron directly on the fabric… acrylic melts at high heat, and even medium heat can create shiny spots.

Let each piece dry completely (usually 4-8 hours) before unpinning. For best results, block your panels BEFORE starting the sleeves, and re-block the full cardigan lightly after seaming to smooth out any settling.

If you substitute a different yarn (wool, cotton, etc.), check the yarn label for blocking instructions. Many non-acrylic fibers respond to wet blocking and may benefit from it. For this pattern written as designed with acrylic, steam is the way.

Make This Sookie Cardigan in Any Color You Love ๐ŸŽจ

One of the things I love most about the Sookie is how dramatically it changes personality based on the color you choose. The sample is stitched in Red Heart Roll With It Mรฉlange in Curtain Call (a warm heathered red), but our test-knitters and community crocheters have made this cardigan in every color you can imagine… and EVERY single one is gorgeous.

Solid, variegated, neutral, bold, dark academia, beachy pastel, holiday-festive… it all works. The Panel Stitch Pattern has so much built-in texture that solid colors pop just as beautifully as multicolor cakes do. Below are a few of my favorite color iterations to get your imagination going.

Free Sookie Crochet Cardigan in blue worsted acrylic, oversized crochet cardigan pattern with panel stitch texture
Sookie in cool blue
Free Sookie Crochet Cardigan in teal green, plus size crochet cardigan pattern XS-5X by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula
Sookie in teal green
Free Sookie Crochet Cardigan in soft pink, panel construction crochet cardigan with optional pockets by Marly Bird
Sookie in soft pink
Free Sookie Crochet Cardigan in neutral tan and cream stripes, size inclusive crochet cardigan pattern XS-5X
Sookie in tan & cream
Free Sookie Crochet Cardigan in black, white and gray stripes, oversized crochet cardigan pattern with video tutorials
Sookie in black, white & gray
Free Sookie Crochet Cardigan in purple, teal and white, free crochet cardigan pattern with panel construction by Marly Bird
Sookie in purple, teal & white
๐Ÿ’ฌ Your turn: Which color is calling your name?

Drop a comment below and tell me which colorway you'd pick for YOUR Sookie… cool blue, teal green, soft pink, tan and cream, classic gray and black, or that gorgeous purple/teal mix? Or are you going somewhere totally different… a rich burgundy, a buttery mustard, a sage neutral, a bright coral? I love seeing what colors my community gravitates toward, and I'm always inspired by what you all come up with.

And if you make the Sookie in your dream color, please tag @marlybird on social media or use #SookieCrochetCardigan so I can share your finished project. โœจ

Favorite & Queue on Ravelry

Please favorite and queue the Sookie Crochet Cardigan on Ravelry and tag your finished projects #SookieCrochetCardigan so I can see them. Every color, every body, every finished photo… absolutely made my week.

Favorite This Pattern on Ravelry - Marly Bird

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Meet the Designers

About Marly Bird
Marly Bird is a professional yarn artist, designer, and teacher who has been designing in the knit and crochet industry since 2007. She's the creator of the BiCrafty method… the only approach that teaches both knitting AND crochet together… and the host of one of the longest-running fiber arts podcasts and YouTube channels in the business. Marly's free patterns, video tutorials, and beginner-friendly teaching style have helped hundreds of thousands of crafters fall in love with the hook and needles. Find her work, free patterns, and online courses at marlybird.com and at Marly Bird House.
About Robyn Chachula
Robyn Chachula is a structural engineer turned full-time crochet designer, author, and teacher. She's published multiple bestselling crochet books (including Crochet Stitches VISUAL Encyclopedia, Unexpected Afghans, and Blueprint Crochet), has been designing for major yarn companies and magazines since 2006, and is celebrated in the crochet community for her clear charts, smart construction, and gorgeous modern takes on traditional techniques. Robyn and Marly have been designing together for years… the Sookie Crochet Cardigan is one of their most-loved collaborations. You can find more of Robyn's work at crochetbyfaye.com.
Free Sookie Crochet Cardigan FAQ โ€” common questions about this size inclusive crochet cardigan pattern by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Sookie Crochet Cardigan really beginner friendly?

Honestly, yes… for an adventurous beginner. If you're comfortable with chain, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, and a few decreases (dc2tog, hdc2tog, sc2tog), you can absolutely do this. The panel construction makes it easier than a one-piece cardigan because you get to finish smaller pieces at a time. The pattern walks you through every special technique (foundation hdc, third loop, stacked dc, crossed dc) and all of them have video tutorials.

Can I make this cardigan in a different yarn?

Absolutely. Use any worsted weight (CYCA #4) yarn that gets the right gauge on a J/10 hook. Acrylic is ideal for this pattern because it's machine washable and the stitch pattern needs a little structure. If you use wool or another natural fiber, check blocking instructions… many natural fibers respond better to wet blocking than steam blocking. Always swatch and block your swatch before committing to the full project.

How long does this cardigan take to crochet?

Most crocheters finish in 40-60 hours, depending on size and speed. A realistic timeline for most crafters is 4-6 weeks of regular crochet time. The Turkey Trot 2024 mystery version was paced over 11 days as a make-along… so if you have an existing crochet rhythm, you can absolutely finish it in that same timeframe.

Are the pockets required?

Nope, completely optional. The pattern notes specifically tell you what to do if you want to skip them (repeat Rows 8-9 instead of the pocket opening rows). Many crocheters add them because pockets are ALWAYS a welcome feature on a cardigan, but if you prefer a cleaner silhouette, skipping them is fine.

What's the difference between the Sookie and other Marly Bird crochet cardigans?

Great question. The Sookie is a panel-construction oversized cardigan with a textured stitch pattern, pockets, and a collar, designed for 9-10 inches of positive ease. My Easy One-Piece Kimono Cardigan is a simpler, unshaped one-piece design for a more beginner-friendly experience. My Goldenrod Cardigan is a different textural stitch with a different fit. Different cardigans for different moods.

Can I customize the length?

Yes! The pattern includes specific notes on how to adjust the back seam, side seams, and overall body length if you want your cardigan shorter or longer. Sweater Row 1 in the Back Seam section notes exactly how to recalculate… you'll want the finished Row 1 to be 2 inches less than half the total desired length. Side seams adjust with a stitch marker method also explained in the pattern. Customization is genuinely supported here.

Where can I get the ad-free PDF or the full VIP workshop?

The full Sookie VIP Workshop at Marly Bird House includes the printable PDF + video walkthroughs for every section. If you're the kind of crafter who learns best by watching, or you want me coaching you through every step of your first garment, the workshop is the premium experience. Standalone ad-free PDF options on Etsy and Ravelry are coming soon.

What is the Marly Bird Turkey Trot? How can I join the next one?

Turkey Trot is my annual November mystery make-along event inside Marly Bird House, where a full pattern is released in pieces over about 11 days. I host it live, participants work the pattern together, and we celebrate finished projects as a community. It's one of four annual events (alongside Game Day in winter, First Fall in late summer, and Tournament of Stitches in spring). Join the newsletter to get first access when the next event opens for registration.

Marly Bird wearing the Sookie Crochet Cardigan in Red Heart Roll With It Mรฉlange Curtain Call, a free crochet cardigan pattern in sizes XS-5X

๐Ÿ’ฌ Final Thoughts

The Sookie Crochet Cardigan has been one of my community's most-loved designs since the moment we released it. I've seen hundreds of finished projects in every color imaginable, on every body, in homes all over the world. It's the kind of pattern that earns its place in your wardrobe… you'll wear it every fall, reach for it on chilly summer evenings, and pull it out when someone asks “can you recommend a crochet cardigan I could actually finish?”

Thank you for being here, for letting me design for you, and for being the reason I get to keep sharing free patterns. If you make the Sookie, please share your finished project with me. Tag @marlybird on social media or use #SookieCrochetCardigan. Seeing your versions is my favorite thing in the whole wide world.

Love, Your BiCrafty Bestie, Marly Bird
(and co-designer Robyn Chachula ๐Ÿ’›)

Marly Bird Bitmoji with rainbow hearts

My First Toe-Up Knit Socks: Free Pattern with German Short Row Heel

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The complete free knit toe-up sock pattern by Marly Bird. Worked from the toe up using Judy's Magic Cast-on, this beginner-friendly sock pattern features a German short row heel that's smoother, prettier, and more comfortable than traditional wrap-and-turn. Available in 6 sizes (foot circumference 5.5″-10.5″). Includes step-by-step video tutorials, multiple needle methods (2 circulars, magic loop, 9″ circular), and a downloadable customization worksheet. Perfect first toe-up sock for adventurous beginner knitters.

Hey, bestie ๐Ÿ’›

Whether this is your first pair of socks ever, or you've made a hundred cuff-down pairs and you're FINALLY ready to try working from the toe up… this pattern is for you. My First Toe-Up Knit Socks is my free beginner-friendly toe-up sock pattern, designed around Judy's Magic Cast-on at the toe and a German short row heel that I genuinely think is the most comfortable, prettiest sock heel in knitting.

Here's why toe-up socks are kind of magical: you can try them on as you go. You can use up every last yard of yarn (just keep knitting the leg until you're almost out). And the German short row heel has zero of the gappy “what is happening in this corner” issues that wrap-and-turn heels are famous for.

If German short rows feel intimidating, don't panic. I've got step-by-step video tutorials AND a downloadable cheat sheet (more on that below). You can do this. Promise. ๐Ÿงฆ

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and it helps keep these free patterns coming straight from my yarn-loving heart to yours. ๐Ÿ’›

Gray and white striped knitted sock displayed on a wooden blocker with sheep cutout; showcases toe-up construction and stitch detail.

๐Ÿงถ TL;DR โ€” My First Toe-Up Knit Socks at a Glance

  • What: Free toe-up knit sock pattern with a German short row heel by Marly Bird
  • Sizes: Foot circumference 5.5โ€“10.5″ (6 sizes); foot length + sock height adjustable
  • Yarn: 2โ€“3 balls of sock-weight yarn (sample is Patons Kroy Socks)
  • Needles: US 2 (2.75 mm) circulars โ€” works with 2 circulars, magic loop, or 9″ circular
  • Cast-on: Judyโ€™s Magic Cast-on at the toe
  • Heel: German short row โ€” smoother, prettier, and more comfortable than wrap-and-turn
  • Skill level: Adventurous beginner โ€” if you can knit and purl in the round, you can do this
  • Time: 15โ€“25 hours for a pair
  • Bonus: Free downloadable customization worksheet for high insteps, wider ankles, or larger heels
  • Ad-free PDF: Available on Ravelry ๐Ÿ’–

What You Will Love About This Pattern ๐Ÿ’–

๐Ÿงฆ Toe-up construction. Try them on as you go and use every last yard of yarn. No more “I have 30 yards left, can I finish this leg?” panic.

โœจ German short row heel. The smoothest, prettiest, no-holes heel construction in knitting. Once you make one with German short rows, you may never go back.

๐Ÿ“ Six sizes. Foot circumference 5.5″ through 10.5″, with adjustable foot length and adjustable sock height. Designed to fit every adult foot.

๐ŸŽฌ Video tutorials at every step. Cast-on, toe + foot, German short row heel, leg + cuff… I'm walking you through every step on YouTube.

๐Ÿชก Multiple needle methods. The pattern works with 2 circulars, magic loop, or a 9-inch circular. Use whatever you like.

๐Ÿ“ Free customization worksheet. If you have larger ankles, a higher instep, or wider heels, my free downloadable worksheet walks you through the math to adjust the heel diagonal.

A colorful toe-up knit sock with a german short row heel is displayed on a wooden sock blocker. Marly Bird logo present.

Quick Pattern Overview

๐ŸŽฏ Skill Level: Adventurous Beginner. If you can knit and purl in the round and you're willing to learn German short rows (with my videos), you can do this.

๐Ÿ“ Sizes: Foot circumference 5.5 (6.5, 7.5, 8.5, 9.5, 10.5) inches. Foot length and sock height both adjustable.

๐Ÿงถ Yarn: 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3) balls of sock-weight yarn. The original sample uses Patons Kroy Socks (75% washable wool / 25% nylon, 166 yds per 50g ball). Any sock yarn (CYCA #1 super fine) works.

๐Ÿชก Needles: US 2 (2.75 mm) circulars. See pattern details below for which needle setup you need based on your preferred technique.

๐Ÿ“ Gauge: 32 stitches and 42 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch in the round. Tight stitches = durable socks.

โฑ๏ธ Estimated time: 15-25 hours for a pair, depending on size and speed.

Is This Sock Pattern Right for You?

This pattern is a perfect match if you're ready for your first toe-up sock, OR if you're an experienced cuff-down sock knitter ready to try toe-up construction. You'll be right at home if you can:

  • Knit and purl comfortably in the round
  • Work from a written pattern
  • Try a new technique (Judy's Magic Cast-on, German short rows) with video support
  • Use either 2 circulars, magic loop, or a 9-inch circular needle

Brand new to socks entirely? No worries, you can still tackle this… just watch the videos before you start. Or if you want a true beginner sock first, my My First Knit Socks (cuff-down) is a different starting point that uses traditional construction.

Three colorful hand-knit socks displayed on wooden blockers, highlighting stitch patterns; home decor visible in the background.

Want the full sock-knitting curriculum? Check out my Ultimate Guide to Knit Socks.

โœจ Designer Tip: Make a gauge swatch in the round (not flat). Sock gauge in the round is genuinely different from gauge worked flat… even by half a stitch per inch. Cast on 32 stitches on your circular needle and knit a small tube before committing to your sock. 30 minutes of swatching saves you from a sock that's an inch too big or small.

Free German Short Rows Customization Worksheet

If you have a higher instep, larger heel diagonal, or wider ankles than the standard sizing, you don't have to abandon this pattern. I made a free downloadable customization worksheet that walks you through the math to adjust the heel diagonal so the sock fits YOUR foot perfectly.

Why German Short Rows for the Heel?

Great question. There are several ways to make a sock heel: heel flap with gusset (classic), wrap-and-turn short rows, or German short rows. Here's why I chose German short rows for this pattern:

  • No holes. Wrap-and-turn heels often leave gaps where the wraps and the turning row meet. German short rows create a “double stitch” instead, which closes neatly.
  • Easier to memorize. Once you know the right-side and wrong-side moves, you do them over and over. No counting wraps to pick up later.
  • Smoother fabric. The double-stitch construction sits flat and looks polished from both sides.
  • Industry-standard for modern sock patterns. Most contemporary sock designers (myself included) have moved toward German short rows.

If you've been intimidated by German short rows in the past, this pattern is your invitation. The video tutorials walk you through every motion. By the end of one sock, you'll have it memorized.

Build Your Skills with This Pattern

By the time you finish this pair, you'll have practiced:

  • Judy's Magic Cast-on… the seamless toe-start that makes toe-up socks possible
  • Lifted increases (RLM1 + LLM1)… clean, invisible toe shaping
  • 2 circulars, magic loop, or 9-inch circular technique… use whatever you prefer
  • German short rows… the modern sock heel that beats wrap-and-turn
  • Stretchy bind-off… your cuff will actually fit over your heel

If any of these are new to you, my knitting definitions glossary covers the abbreviations, and the video tutorials linked in the pattern below walk through every technique.

Want to go DEEPER into sock knitting? Come join me at Marly Bird House… I have multiple sock-focused courses inside, including Tranquility Knit Socks and Aromatherapy Knit Socks which take you through more advanced sock techniques and design variations.

Six laptop screens show knit and crochet socks, colorful yarn, notions, and a make-along course signup page.

Yarn & Materials

The original sample uses Patons Kroy Socks, a 75% washable wool / 25% nylon sock-weight yarn (166 yds per 50g ball). Patons Kroy is a workhorse sock yarn… affordable, durable, machine-washable, and widely available at craft stores. You'll need 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3) balls.

Yarn Substitutes & Stash Options

Have indie sock yarn in your stash? Want a different fiber blend? Any sock-weight (CYCA #1 super fine) yarn with around 400+ yards per 100 g will work. For socks you'll actually wear, look for a wool/nylon blend… the nylon adds the durability your heels need (pure wool will felt + wear out fast on hard floors).

A few favorite substitutes:

  • ๐Ÿงถ KnitPicks Stroll Fingering (75% superwash merino / 25% nylon, 231 yds / 50 g)… the WeCrochet/KnitPicks workhorse sock yarn. Same fiber blend as Patons Kroy, comparable yardage, in solids, tonals, hand-dyed, and self-striping. Affordable and machine washable.
  • ๐Ÿงถ KnitPicks Hawthorne Fingering (80% superwash merino / 20% nylon, 357 yds / 100 g)… a slightly more luxurious sock yarn from the same family, available in solids and beautiful hand-painted multi-color skeins. Great for self-striping or speckled socks.
  • ๐ŸŒˆ KnitPicks Felici Sock Yarn… the classic self-striping sock yarn. Stripes are pre-planned in the skein, so your socks look beautifully patterned without having to fuss with multiple yarn balls. Great for second-sock syndrome (it's actually exciting to see what stripe is next).
  • โœจ KnitPicks Static Sock Yarn… fun effect sock yarn that creates an organic speckled/static look as you knit. Adds visual interest to a simple stockinette stitch pattern like this one.
  • ๐Ÿฆ‹ Malabrigo Sock Yarn… hand-dyed luxury sock yarn from Malabrigo. If you've been wanting to splurge on an indie-dye experience, this is a beautiful place to start. Saturated, jewel-tone colorways that make your socks feel like art on your feet.
  • ๐ŸŽจ Madelinetosh Tosh Sock Yarn… cult-favorite indie hand-dyed sock yarn. Tosh Sock has a near-legendary status in the sock-knitting community for its gorgeous tonal colorways and soft hand-feel.
  • ๐Ÿงถ Berroco Vintage Sock… fingering-weight wool blend with nylon from Berroco. Machine washable, durable, comes in a wide range of solids and heathers.
  • ๐Ÿงถ KnitPicks Capretta Superwash Fingering (80% superwash merino / 10% nylon / 10% cashmere, 230 yds / 50 g)… if you want a splurge sock with cashmere softness. Still has 10% nylon for durability. Treat yourself.
  • ๐Ÿงถ Berroco Comfort Sock (50% superwash nylon / 50% acrylic, 447 yds / 100 g)… a 100% synthetic sock yarn that's machine washable, dryer-safe, and great for gift socks or anyone with wool sensitivity. Find Berroco yarns here.
  • ๐Ÿงบ Stash yarn? Any indie hand-dyed sock yarn (Hedgehog Fibres, Spincycle, SweetGeorgia, Knerd String, Must Stash, etc.), Lion Brand Sock-Ease, Regia Sock, or any other fingering-weight wool/nylon blend with around 400+ yards per 100 g is a great fit. Speckled and self-striping yarns look especially fun in this simple stockinette pattern.

Want to browse the full KnitPicks sock-yarn lineup? Shop all KnitPicks sock yarn here.

For more sock yarn project ideas beyond socks, see my What To Crochet With Sock Yarn guide (even if you're knitting, the yarn weight discussion applies).

Needles: US 2 (2.75 mm) circulars. Your specific setup depends on your preferred technique:

  • 2 circulars method: 2 needles, one 24″ and one longer than 24″
  • Magic loop method: 1 circular longer than 24″
  • 9″ circular method: a 9″ circular for the foot and leg, plus a longer-than-24″ circular for the toe and heel

I shop my KnitPicks needles for sock knitting because the size 2 tips are sharp enough to handle the tight gauge.

Notions:

โญ๏ธ Marly Bird Amazon Storefront โญ๏ธ

Video Tutorials

Every step of this pattern has a video tutorial. Watch ahead of time or pull them up as you go:

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A colorful knit sock displayed on a sock blocker, showing even stitches and smooth texture as part of a toe-up knitting project.

My First Toe-Up Knit Socks โ€” Pattern Details

Skill Level

Adventurous Beginner

Sizes & Finished Measurements

To Fit Foot Circumference: 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) inches (measure around ball of foot)
Foot Length: Adjustable
Sock Height: 5 inches from top of heel (adjustable)

Actual Sock Measurements:
Foot Circumference: 5.5 (6.5, 7.5, 8.5, 9.5, 10.5) inches
Foot Length: Adjustable
Sock Height: 5 inches from top of heel

32 stitches / 42 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch in the round (you want tight stitches for socks as it helps with the wear of them).

Materials

Yarn: Patons Kroy Socks (75% washable wool, 25% nylon super fine weight yarn; 1.75oz/50g; 166yds/152m), 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3) balls. OR any sock weight yarn.

Knitting Needles: US 2 (2.75 mm) or size to obtain gauge.

Depending on what tools you want to use to make socks, you will need the following:

  • To make socks with 2 circulars: 2 needles, 1 needle 24″ and the other longer than 24″
  • To make socks with magic loop: 1 circular needle longer than 24″
  • To make socks with a 9″ circular needle on foot and leg: a 9″ circular needle, plus a longer-than-24″ circular at the toe and heel

Notions:

Special Abbreviations

  • GSR: German Short Row (see special stitches)
  • LLM1: Left Lifted make-one (M1) increase
  • PM: place marker
  • RLM1: Right Lifted make-one (M1) increase
  • SM: slip marker
  • W&T: wrap and turn

Special Stitches

โญ GSR (German Short Row): these short rows are worked in such a way that you get a ‘double stitch' in place of a traditional W&T short row.

GSR Right side: bring the yarn to the front BETWEEN the needles, slip the stitch from the left needle to the right needle purlwise with the yarn in front, pull the yarn to the back of the work OVER TOP of the right needle. This will distort the stitch making it look as if there are 2 stitches instead of 1. This is called the ‘double stitch'. With yarn in back, begin knitting.

GSR Wrong side: Slip the stitch from the left needle to the right needle purlwise with yarn in front, pull the yarn to the back of the work OVER TOP of the right needle. This will distort the stitch, making it look as if there are 2 stitches instead of 1. This is called the ‘double stitch'. Don't forget to bring the yarn to the front BETWEEN the needles to begin purling.

Continue in this fashion as specified in your pattern, creating your ‘doubled' stitches. To finish the short rows simply knit or purl the double stitch together.

โญ LLM1 (Left Lifted Make-One): Insert left needle tip into the left leg of the second stitch directly under the stitch on the right hand needle (the grandmother stitch), knit it through the back leg. (1 stitch increased)

โญ RLM1 (Right Lifted Make-One): Insert right needle tip into the right leg of the stitch directly under the stitch on the left hand needle (the mother stitch), lift the leg onto the left hand needle and knit it. (1 stitch increased)

โญ W&T (Wrap and Turn):

Knit row: with yarn in back, slip next st purlwise onto right hand needle, bring yarn to front of work, return slipped st to left hand needle, bring yarn to back of work, then turn work.

Purl row: with yarn in front, slip next st purlwise onto right hand needle, bring yarn to back of work, return slipped st to left hand needle, bring yarn to front of work, then turn work.

โญ Hide Wraps: Knit row… pick up the wrap from the front with the right hand needle and knit together with the stitch it wraps.

Notes

  • Whether working on 2 circulars or magic loop, the stitches are always divided onto two needles. Needle #1: instep stitches; Needle #2: sole stitches.
  • When the end of one needle has been reached, rotate the work so the stitches just worked are on the bottom. Move the bottom stitches to the cord and the unworked stitches to the next needle and continue on to work in the round.
  • โญ๏ธ indicates extra explanation of instructions
  • ๐ŸŽฌ indicates video tutorial available

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I appreciate your support and readership. You are the reason I can keep doing what I love and sharing it with others. So, thank you from the bottom of my yarn-loving heart! Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links at no cost to you.

My First Toe-Up Knit Socks โ€” Pattern Instructions

Toe

๐ŸŽฌ Watch video for part 1: cast-on, toe and foot

Using Judy's Magic Cast-on, cast on 16 (16, 20, 24, 24, 28) stitches total.

โญ Make it so half the stitches are on each of two needles if using 2 circulars, or distribute so that half of the stitches are on each tip if using magic loop.

Knit 1 round evenly.

โญ First half of stitches are instep, second half of stitches are sole.
โญ Place a marker on the needle with the instep stitches so you can identify that as needle #1 whether doing 2 circulars or magic loop.

Round 1 (increase round):
Needle #1: K1, PM, RLM1 (see special stitches), knit to 1 stitch before end of instep stitches, LLM1 (see special stitches), K1
Needle #2: K1, RLM1, knit to 1 stitch before end of instep stitches, LLM1, K1 โ€” [4 stitches increased]

Round 2: Knit

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until there are 44 (52, 60, 68, 76, 84) stitches total.

โญ This is the total number of stitches for the sock and should measure the actual sock circumference listed above if you achieved gauge.

Two socks in progress knit with multicolored yarn and needles, shown on a white background; project: toe-up sock knit-along.

Foot

โญ Before continuing, use a removable stitch marker to mark an actual stitch in the center of the sole (needle #2). This will ensure a perfectly matching second sock.

โญ If you want to switch to a 9 inch circular needle, now is the time to do it as you work in even rounds for the foot of the sock. Keep the marker in place to indicate the start of the rounds.

Knit evenly in rounds until the sock measures 1.5 (1.5, 2, 2, 2.5, 2.5) inches shorter than your desired finished foot length, ending after 22 (26, 30, 34, 38, 42) stitches on needle #1 have been worked.

โญ The foot of the sock length is the resulting measurement of your desired finished foot length minus the measurement of the 1st half of the short row heel. Note: If the number of total heel stitches is changed from the number listed in the pattern, then the row count of the short row heel changes, and thus the measurement of the foot of the sock changes.

โญ Before continuing, use another removable stitch marker to mark an actual stitch in the center of the sole (needle #2). This will ensure a perfectly matching second sock.

โญ This is a great place to add a lifeline.

๐ŸŽฌ Watch video for how to add a lifeline

โญ If you switched to a 9 inch circular needle, now is the time to transfer the sole stitches onto another circular needle. The 9 inch needle will remain in place acting as a stitch holder for the instep stitches (keep the marker in place to indicate the start of the rounds), and the new needle will act as needle #2 and will have the sole stitches worked on it.

โœจ Designer Tip on Customizing Your Sock Heel: If you want to adjust the heel diagonal circumference of your sock to accommodate a larger instep, larger heel diagonal measurement, or larger ankles, take a look at the worksheet I've made walking you through step by step the calculations you need to alter the pattern.

๐Ÿ‘‰ Get the FREE Customize Sock Heel Diagonal of German Short Row Heel Worksheet here

German Short Row Heel

๐ŸŽฌ Part 2 video URL for German Short Row Heel video https://youtu.be/t0dNvAXi4tI?si=r412d3vOigSmG29j

1st half of short row heel (worked only on needle #2)

Row 1 (RS): Knit 7 (9, 10, 11, 13, 14), PM, knit 8 (8, 10, 12, 12, 14), PM, knit 7 (9, 10, 11, 13, 14) stitches, turn work.

โญ Stitches between markers are final heel stitches. The short rows will be worked outside of those markers.

โญ The final heel stitches will measure 1 (1, 1.25, 1.5, 1.5, 1.75) inches wide and traditionally represent approximately โ…“ of the number of the total heel stitches. Note: If the number of final heel stitches is changed from the number listed in the pattern, then the number of stitches to work short rows on and the row count of the short row heel changes, and thus the total instructions change as well as the measurement of the foot of the sock changes.

Row 2 (WS): GSR Wrong side (see special stitches), purl 22 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41) stitches, turn work.
Row 3 (RS): GSR Right side (see special stitches), knit to stitch before previous ‘double stitch', turn work.
Row 4 (WS): GSR Wrong side, purl to stitch before previous ‘double stitch', turn work.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 another 5 (7, 8, 9, 11, 12) times more. All the stitches outside the markers are ‘double stitches' (except the last stitch worked as it will become a double stitch on the next row).

‘Pick Up' rows: Center of short row heel (worked on needle #2 and needle #1)

Row 1 (RS):
Needle #2: GSR Right side, knit to the ‘double stitch', *knit the two strands of the ‘double stitch' together as one, repeat from * to end of needle #2
Needle #1: W&T the 1st stitch on needle #1, turn work.

Row 2 (WS):
Needle #2: Purl to the ‘double stitch', *purl the two strands of the ‘double stitch' together as one, repeat from * to end of needle #2
Needle #1: W&T the 1st stitch on needle #1, turn work.

โญ These wrap and turns will help prevent holes at the join.

2nd half of short row heel (worked only on needle #2)

Row 1 (RS): Knit 7 (9, 10, 11, 13, 14), slip marker, knit 8 (8, 10, 12, 12, 14), remove marker, knit 1 stitch, turn work.
Row 2 (WS): GSR Wrong side, purl 8 (8, 10, 12, 12, 14), remove marker, purl 1 stitch, turn work.
Row 3 (RS): GSR Right side, knit to the ‘double stitch', knit the two strands of the ‘double stitch' together as one, knit 1, turn work.
Row 4 (WS): GSR Wrong side, purl to the ‘double stitch', purl the two strands of the ‘double stitch' together as one, purl 1, turn work.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 another 5 (7, 8, 9, 11, 12) times more.

Next Row (RS): GSR Right side (see special stitches), knit to the ‘double stitch', knit the two strands of the ‘double stitch' together as one, do not turn work.

Finishing round

Next Round (RS):
Needle #1: Knit the W&T together, knit to the last stitch of needle #1, knit the W&T together.
Needle #2: Knit the two strands of the ‘double stitch' together as one, knit to end of needle #2.

Gray and white striped knitted sock displayed on a wooden blocker with sheep cutout; showcases toe-up construction and stitch detail.

Leg and Cuff

๐ŸŽฌ Watch video for part 3: leg and cuff

Continue knitting all stitches around the sock until leg measures 8″ [20.3 cm] or desired length of leg before 1″ [2.54 cm] cuff.

โญ The leg length measurement is customizable. Note: The beauty of toe up socks is once the foot and heel are complete, you can use up all the remaining yarn on the leg of the sock.

โญ The leg of the sock should have some negative ease or it will slouch down into the shoe when worn.

Once the leg measures desired length, work 1×1 ribbing for 1″ [2.54 cm].

Stretchy Bind-Off

Bind off using the stretchy bind off as follows:

  1. Work 2 stitches on left hand needle in pattern
  2. Insert left hand needle into front leg of 2 stitches on right hand needle
  3. Knit the stitches together. Leaves one stitch remaining on right hand needle
  4. Work next stitch on left hand needle in pattern
  5. Repeat from step 2 to last stitch of round

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Side and close-up of an orange knit sock with pink toe, heel, and cuff; wavy white and pink lines along the sides. Displayed on a mannequin.

More Marly Bird Sock Patterns

Once you've nailed your first toe-up pair, here are more sock patterns to try:

Want the full sock-knitting curriculum? Browse my Ultimate Guide to Knit Socks for step-by-step learning, video tutorials, and pattern recommendations sorted by skill level.

Digital devices show the โ€œMerry Stitchmasโ€ pattern book, charts, knit and crochet stockings, and toe-up sock project.

Want Marly Walking You Through Every Step? Sock Workshops at Marly Bird House

If you want hands-on coaching, advanced techniques, and a designer in your ear while you learn… my sock workshops at Marly Bird House are where you go:

  • ๐ŸŒฟ Tranquility Knit Socks… a calm, mindfulness-paced sock pattern with full video instruction at Marly Bird House
  • ๐Ÿงด Aromatherapy Knit Socks… self-care meets sock knitting
  • ๐Ÿง˜โ€โ™€๏ธ Meditation Knit Socks… a calm, meditative sock-knitting experience built around the Sweet Tomato Heel (a unique heel construction that's different from German short rows and traditional flap-and-gusset, perfect for crafters who want to expand their sock-knitting repertoire). Sized S-L. Includes a full PDF pattern, interactive charts, and video modules covering Anatomy of a Sock, Yarn Planning for Sock Length, Cuff, Leg, Sweet Tomato Heel, Foot, and Toe.
  • ๐Ÿงฆ Classic and Colorful Crochet Socks Workshop… if you also crochet, this is the comprehensive sock crochet course

Browse all sock courses at Marly Bird House.

Red and blue hand-knitted sock on a wooden blocker with visible stitch detail, yarn balls, and knitting tools on a white surface.
Hand-knitted sock with dark and light blue geometric patterns, shown with matching yarn balls on a woven mat.
Purple and pink striped knit sock on a wooden blocker with purple yarn, floral bag, tape measure, needles, and scissors nearby.

Favorite & Queue on Ravelry

Please favorite and queue My First Toe-Up Knit Socks on Ravelry and tag your finished projects #MyFirstToeUpSocks. I love seeing your color choices and finished pairs.

Favorite This Pattern on Ravelry - Marly Bird

Frequently Asked Questions

Are German short rows better than wrap-and-turn for sock heels?

Honestly, yes… most modern sock designers (myself included) have moved to German short rows because they create a smoother, no-hole heel without the fussy wrap-pickup of W&T. They're easier to memorize and look more polished. If you've struggled with wrap-and-turn heels in the past, give GSR a try… I think you'll convert.

Can I use any sock yarn for this pattern?

Yes. Look for sock-weight (CYCA #1 super fine) yarn with around 400+ yards per 100 grams. A wool/nylon blend gives you the best durability for actual wear. Hand-dyed indie sock yarn works beautifully for this pattern… the simple stockinette body really shows off variegated colors.

Which needle method is best for toe-up socks?

Honestly, whichever you're most comfortable with. The pattern works with all three. 2 circulars and magic loop work for the entire sock. The 9-inch circular is faster for the foot and leg but you'll need a longer circular for the toe and heel. If you've never tried any of them before, magic loop is usually the easiest to learn first.

How do I customize the heel for a high instep or wide ankles?

Great question. I made a free customization worksheet that walks you through the math step-by-step. Download it, fill in your own measurements, and you'll know exactly what numbers to adjust in the pattern for a perfect fit.

How long does this pattern take to knit?

Most knitters finish a pair in 15-25 hours, depending on size and speed. Sock knitting is naturally portable… if you knit during downtime (lunch breaks, waiting rooms, TV time), you can finish a pair in a few weeks of casual knitting.

Should I use a lifeline?

Yes, especially before the German short row heel. Slide a lifeline (waste yarn or dental floss) through your stitches just before starting the heel. If a mistake happens, you can rip back to the lifeline without losing your foot.

What's the difference between toe-up and cuff-down sock construction?

Toe-up starts at the toe with Judy's Magic Cast-on, works the foot up, turns the heel, knits the leg, and binds off at the cuff. Cuff-down starts at the cuff with a stretchy cast-on, works the leg down, turns the heel, knits the foot, and grafts the toe shut. Toe-up's main advantages: you can try the sock on as you go, and you use up every yard of yarn on the leg. Cuff-down's main advantages: classic heel flap construction is familiar to many knitters, and the bind-off is a finished cuff (no Kitchener stitch needed).

Where can I get the ad-free PDF?

The ad-free printable PDF is available on Ravelry. Etsy and Shopify versions coming soon. Your purchase supports me as an indie designer and keeps the free patterns coming. ๐Ÿ’›

๐Ÿ’ฌ Final Thoughts

Toe-up socks were the construction that made me fall in love with sock knitting. Once you cast on with Judy's Magic Cast-on (which I promise is easier than it sounds with a video), work the toe, knit the foot, and turn the German short row heel for the first time… you understand WHY toe-up is so beloved.

This is the pattern I wish I'd had when I was learning. Try-as-you-go fit, video tutorials at every step, multiple needle methods, and a heel that actually fits. If you finish a pair, please share with me. Tag me @themarlybird and use #MyFirstToeUpSocks, #mmmdi, and #marlybird. I want to see every pair.

Love, Your BiCrafty Bestie, Marly Bird

Marly Bird Bitmoji with rainbow hearts

Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl: A Free Knit Pattern for Crescent City Fans

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The Lehabah Fire Sprite Right Triangle Shawl is a free intermediate knit shawl pattern inspired by the fire sprite character from Sarah J. Maas's Crescent City series. Worked flat in fingering weight yarn on US 5 needles, this asymmetrical right triangle shawl features simple Columns of Lace stitching, an i-cord-style slipped edge, and a ribbed border. Finished piece measures 88 inches along the hypotenuse and drapes beautifully across the shoulders.

Woman with curly blonde hair showcases the orange Lehabah Fire Sprite knit shawl, highlighting stitch detail and drape.

If you love a shawl that wraps you up like a hug AND you love a bookish knit that connects to your favorite fantasy series, this one was made for you. The Lehabah Fire Sprite Right Triangle Shawl is a free knit shawl pattern featuring warm, flame-inspired lace columns that open up gorgeously when blocked. It's perfect for indie fingering weight skeins and makes a stunning gift for the Crescent City reader in your life (even if that's you ๐Ÿ”ฅ).

๐Ÿ”ฅ Spring Fling 2026 Day 6 Pattern: The Lehabah Fire Sprite Knit Shawl debuted as Day 6 of Spring Fling 2026, my 20-day knit and crochet pattern celebration. Cast on, share your progress, and tag me @themarlybird with #LehabahShawl + #SpringFling2026 to be featured. Fire-sprite fans always welcome ๐Ÿ”ฅ๐Ÿ’›

Hey, bestie ๐Ÿ’›

You know when you read a book and one character just completely steals your heart? That's Lehabah for me. If you've read Sarah J. Maas's House of Earth and Blood (Crescent City, Book 1), you already know the little fire sprite with the big personality… the one who lights up every scene she's in, literally and figuratively. I finished that book and immediately started sketching a shawl in her honor. Warm, glowing, lace-like flames dancing up the fabric, stretchy enough to wrap around you like she deserves a giant hug.

This is that shawl. And whether you're a fellow SJM reader or you just love a beautifully stretchy lace right triangle shawl… cast on. You're going to love this one.

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and it helps keep these free patterns coming straight from my yarn-loving heart to yours. ๐Ÿ’›

The Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl in green, purple, and blue features bold colorwork and textured stitches.

What You Will Love About This Pattern ๐Ÿ’–

๐Ÿ”ฅ It's free here on the blog. The full pattern is right here, thanks to the ads. If you'd rather have an ad-free, printable PDF, you can grab one from Etsy, Shopify, or Ravelry.

๐Ÿ“ The right triangle shape drapes beautifully. At 88 inches along the long edge, it wraps across your shoulders without slipping, and the stretchy lace gives it tons of flex.

๐Ÿงถ The stitch pattern looks fancier than it is. Columns of Lace is a 2-row repeat over 7 stitches. If you can count to seven and do a yarn over, you can knit this shawl.

๐Ÿ“š It's named for a Crescent City character you already love. Lehabah is a fire sprite with the biggest heart, and this shawl is my little tribute to her. Bookish knitter energy at its finest.

๐Ÿ’› Perfect yardage for indie fingering skeins. Four 400-yard skeins of a hand-dyed fingering, and you've got yourself a heirloom-quality right triangle shawl.

A woman models an orange knitted shawl with fire-inspired details; close-ups highlight intricate stitch patterns and texture.

Quick Pattern Overview

๐ŸŽฏ Skill Level: Advanced Beginner to Intermediate. You need to be comfortable with basic lace (k2tog, ssk, yo) and following a written pattern.

๐Ÿ“ Finished Size: 47 inches across the top edge, 65 inches along the straight side edge, 88 inches along the hypotenuse. The piece is very stretchy and measurements are flexible.

๐Ÿงถ Yarn: Destination Yarn Letter Plus (fingering weight / CYCA #1). 4 skeins, 1,600 yards total. Colorway: El Rosario Monarch Preserve.

๐Ÿชก Needles: US 5 (3.75 mm).

๐Ÿ“ Gauge: 21 sts (3 repeats) = 4 inches in Columns of Lace Pattern.

A woman wears an orange knit shawl with visible stitch detail; pattern preview pages and a โ€œBuy Nowโ€ button shown.
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The full pattern below is 100% free… thank you for supporting the site by reading through the ads! But I totally get it… sometimes you just want a clean, printable, ad-free PDF you can take to your knitting chair (or to the beach, or to the LYS, or to 30,000 feet).

๐Ÿ›’ Buy the ad-free PDF on Etsy
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A woman with glasses and curly hair models a colorful crocheted scarf, showing textured stitches and vibrant yarn.

Lehabah in Other Colors ๐ŸŽจ

Not feeling the fiery orange? I get it… color is personal, and you should knit a shawl you'll actually wear. Good news: Lehabah is striking in just about every colorway you can imagine. The Columns of Lace pattern shows beautifully in solids, tonals, and even subtle variegated yarns… so don't let the original colorway scare you off.

Here are a few of the other colors I've think would look great knit up… pick the one that calls to your wardrobe and yarn stash.

Lehabah Fire Sprite knit shawl in multiple colors โ€” free Crescent City inspired knit lace shawl pattern by Marly Bird

๐Ÿ’ก Pro tip for picking your color: For maximum lace definition, choose a yarn with subtle tonal shifts or a solid… the Columns of Lace stitch pattern reads more clearly when the yarn doesn't compete with it. High-contrast variegated yarns can hide the lace texture, so save those skeins for stockinette projects.

Personally, I am partial to the cobalt blue color and I think I need to make another sample pronto!

Marly Bird wears a bright blue textured knit shawl with intricate patterns, highlighting the Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl design.

Is This Knit Shawl Right for You?

This pattern is a perfect fit if you've already done some basic lace work and you're ready to take on a bigger, more satisfying project. If you can knit, purl, do a yarn over, and work a k2tog and ssk without looking at the tutorial every time, you are 100% ready for Lehabah.

It's also a dream project for anyone who loves a long, drapey wrap you can really snuggle into. The right triangle shape means it stays on your shoulders instead of sliding off, and the Columns of Lace pattern is meditative without being boring.

If you're brand new to lace knitting, I'd gently steer you toward my Super Simple Ribbed Lace Knit Scarf & Cowl first. It's a confidence-building beginner pattern, and once you've got that under your belt, Lehabah will feel totally doable.

โœจ Designer Tip: Lace looks scary until you realize every RS row is the same eight stitches. Columns of Lace is literally k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, repeated across the row. Purl back. Repeat. If you can count to seven, you can knit this shawl.
Multicolored knit scarf and cowl with rib and lace stitches, blue buttons, displayed with โ€œSuper Simple Rib and Lace Scarf & Cowlโ€ text.

Explore More Knit Shawl Patterns

The Lehabah Shawl is part of my growing collection of free knit shawls. If you love this one, you'll want to browse the full Knit Shawl Patterns hub, where every free shawl is organized by shape, season, and skill level. It's the easiest way to find your next project.

A few shawl-shaped friends that live near Lehabah:

What Is a Right Triangle Shawl, Anyway?

Great question. A right triangle shawl is a shawl shape created by increasing along ONE edge only, every other row, while the other edge stays straight (no spine increases, no second-edge shaping). That single-side growth gives the finished shawl its asymmetrical right-triangle silhouette… with one long top edge that runs across your shoulders and a single point that hangs down your back.

Purple triangular knitted swatch with clear stitch definition, showing start point, increased edge, and bind-off edge.

Right triangle shawls are different from boomerang shawls, which require shaping on TWO edges to get that curved, bent-wing silhouette. Right triangles keep it simple: increase on one side, knit straight on the other. That makes them incredibly beginner-friendly while still producing a long, dramatic drape that wraps beautifully across your shoulders.

A triangular knitted swatch showing labeled edges for a boomerang shawl, with visible garter stitch texture.

Compared to a traditional symmetric triangle shawl (which increases at both edges plus a center spine), a right triangle gives you a more flattering asymmetrical look that drapes naturally without sliding off. The long edge stays put across your shoulders, and the single point becomes a styling feature… you can let it hang, tuck it into your jacket, or wrap it once around your neck like a scarf. The shape is also a yarn-friendly choice for gradient or hand-dyed skeins… they show off their color shifts beautifully along the long edge.

An orange Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl with textured stitches is displayed by a person in a colorful, book-filled room.

If you want to go deep on shawl shapes, I've got a full breakdown in the Knit Shawl Patterns guide. But for right now, just trust me… once you wear a right triangle, you won't want to go back.

Build Your Skills with This Shawl

Even if you're already comfortable with lace, Lehabah gives you a few skills worth locking in. You'll practice working lace over a multi-stitch repeat while maintaining a consistent slipped edge… this is muscle memory you'll use on every shawl and wrap you ever make.

You'll also master right triangle construction (increasing on one side only), counting lace stitches between yarn overs and decreases, and blocking lace to fully open up the stitch pattern. That last one is where the magic happens… wet blocking transforms a good shawl into a gorgeous one.

Person models a bright orange knit Lehabah shawl; smaller photos show the same shawl pattern in red, teal, purple, and green.

Need a refresher on any of the abbreviations? My knitting definitions page has every knit term you'll see in this pattern. Brand new to lace or want to build your foundation? Start with my BiCrafty Bootcamp: Learn to Knit… it's where all my beginners start.

Want to take your shawl knitting deeper? My BiCrafty Stitch-Nite at Marly Bird House is where I teach shawl techniques like lace edgings, short row garter shaping, and advanced blocking… live, with me, alongside a full community of BiCrafty Besties. It's the perfect next step after you finish Lehabah.

Marly Bird models a textured green knit boomerang shawl with bold stitch definition, worn over a black top in a cozy room.

Yarn & Materials

This shawl is designed for Destination Yarn Letter Plus, a fingering weight blend of 80% superwash merino wool and 20% nylon. Each skein is 400 yards / 100 grams, and you need 4 skeins total.

The colorway I used, El Rosario Monarch Preserve, was inspired by the monarch butterfly sanctuary in Mexico. But let me tell you… with the warm orange, gold, and flame tones, it could not be more perfect for a Lehabah tribute. It's basically fire in yarn form.

Suggested Alternative Yarns

Want to substitute? Look for a fingering weight yarn with a bit of nylon (for durability), around 400 yards per 100g skein. Hand-dyed, single-ply indie fingerings also work gorgeously here… this is a great project to use that one skein (okay, four skeins ๐Ÿ˜…) you've been saving for something special.

โœจ Designer Tip: Because you're knitting this at a looser gauge (US 5 with fingering yarn), you want a yarn that blooms beautifully when blocked. Superwash merino is exactly that kind of yarn. Avoid tightly-spun, heavy-twist fingerings for this project… you want drape, not structure.

Video Tutorials

If you're a visual learner, I've got you. Here are my go-to videos for every technique you'll use in the Lehabah Shawl:

Vibrant orange knit shawl with intricate stitch detail shown in two poses, modeled indoors; text: "LEHABAH.

Lehabah Fire Sprite Right Triangle Shawl โ€” Pattern Details

Skill Level

Intermediate

Finished Measurements

Shawl measures 47″ [119.5 cm] across top edge, 65″ [165 cm] along straight side edge, and 88″ [223.5 cm] along hypotenuse.

Note: Piece is very stretchy and measurements are flexible.

Gauge

21 sts (3 repeats) = 4″ [10 cm] in Columns of Lace Pattern.

Materials

Yarn: Destination Yarn Letter Plus (80% superwash merino wool, 20% nylon, 400 yds / 365 m, 3ยฝ oz / 100 g, CYCA #1 fingering)
4 skeins: El Rosario Monarch Preserve

Needle: US 5 [3.75 mm], or size required for gauge.

Notions:

โญ๏ธ Marly Bird Amazon Storefront โญ๏ธ

Abbreviations

  • K โ€“ Knit
  • K2tog โ€“ Knit 2 Together
  • P โ€“ Purl
  • RS โ€“ Right Side
  • Sl โ€“ Slip
  • St(s) โ€“ Stitches
  • WS โ€“ Wrong Side
  • Wyif โ€“ With Yarn In Front
  • Yo โ€“ Yarn Over
A Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl drapes over a black top, showing intricate knit stitches and vibrant colors in a cozy craft room setting.

Special Stitches

Ssk (Slip, Slip, Knit): Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, as if to knit. Insert left hand needle into the front of these two stitches and knit them together from this position (1 stitch decreased).

Pattern Stitches

Edge Pattern (used at the beginning and end of rows throughout shawl):

Row 1 and all RS rows: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, work in pattern as indicated to last 3 sts, kfb, k2.
Row 2 and all WS rows: Sl 1 wyif, k2, work in pattern as indicated to last 4 sts, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Columns of Lace Pattern (worked over a multiple of 7 sts):

Row 1 (RS): * K2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk; repeat from * to end.
Row 2: Purl.

Chart

โœจ Following along with the free pattern on MarlyBird.com? Youโ€™ll have everything you need to make the shawl, but if you want the exclusive stitch charts, those are only available in the ad-free PDF version.

Youโ€™ll enjoy a clean, printable, ad-free experience while supporting Marly Birdโ€™s free tutorials and patterns ๐Ÿ’–

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A woman wears an orange knit shawl with visible stitch detail; pattern preview pages and a โ€œBuy Nowโ€ button shown.

Notes

Before You Begin

This shawl is one of those relaxing, โ€œjust one more rowโ€ kind of projects ๐Ÿ˜Š The simple lace repeat is easy to memorize after a few repeats, making it a wonderful travel or TV knitting project.

A few things to keep in mind before you cast on:

  • The shawl begins at one corner and grows outward into a right triangle shape.
  • You will increase 1 stitch every Right Side row to gradually widen the shawl.
  • The slipped-stitch edging gives the shawl a tidy, professional-looking finish while also helping the edges stay smooth.
  • The lace pattern is stretchy and airy, so your shawl may look smaller before blocking. Trust the processโ€”wet blocking really brings this shawl to life!
  • Donโ€™t stress about perfection. Because of the texture and drape of the fabric, small mistakes tend to disappear beautifully into the finished piece.
  • If you love a giant cozy wrap, keep knitting additional repeats before working the border. If you prefer a smaller scarf-style shawl, stop earlier.
โœจ Designer Tip: Add a lifeline every few repeats of the lace pattern. It makes relaxing into the knitting so much easier!

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I'm thrilled to share this amazing pattern with you, many patterns on my blog are absolutely free! I kindly request that you don't copy and paste or distribute this pattern. Prefer an ad-free experience? Buy a digital PDF pattern for a small fee from one of my online stores for a seamless crafting journey. 

I appreciate your support and readership. You are the reason I can keep doing what I love and sharing it with others. So, thank you from the bottom of my yarn-loving heart! Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links at no cost to you.

Woman with curly blonde hair wears an orange knit Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl, showing lace detail; bookshelves in background.

Lehabah Fire Sprite Right Triangle Shawl โ€” Pattern Instructions

Cast on 5 sts using long tail cast-on (see Video Tutorials above).

Setup Rows

Row 1: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, kfb, k1 โ€” 6 sts.
Row 2: [Sl 1 wyif, p1] 3 times.
Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, kfb, k2 โ€” 7 sts.
Row 4: Sl 1 wyif, k2, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 5: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, kfb, k2 โ€” 8 sts.

Row 6: Sl 1 wyif, k3, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 7: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, k1, kfb, k2 โ€” 9 sts.
Row 8: Sl 1 wyif, k4, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 9: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, k2, kfb, k2 โ€” 10 sts.
Row 10: Sl 1 wyif, k5, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 11: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, k3, kfb, k2 โ€” 11 sts.
Row 12: Sl 1 wyif, k6, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 13: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, k4, kfb, k2 โ€” 12 sts.
Row 14: Sl 1 wyif, k7, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 15: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, k5, kfb, k2 โ€” 13 sts.
Row 16: Sl 1 wyif, k8, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 17: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, k6, kfb, k2 โ€” 14 sts.
Row 18: Sl 1 wyif, k9, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Begin Columns of Lace Pattern

Row 19: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 3 sts, kfb, k2 โ€” 15 sts.
Row 20: Sl 1 wyif, k3, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 4 sts, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 21: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 4 sts, k1, kfb, k2 โ€” 16 sts.
Row 22: Sl 1 wyif, k3, p1, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 4 sts, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 23: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 5 sts, k2tog, yo, kfb, k2 โ€” 17 sts.
Row 24: Sl 1 wyif, k3, p2, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 4 sts, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 25: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 6 sts, k2tog, yo, k1, kfb, k2 โ€” 18 sts.
Row 26: Sl 1 wyif, k3, p3, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 4 sts, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 27: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 7 sts, k2tog, yo, k2, kfb, k2 โ€” 19 sts.
Row 28: Sl 1 wyif, k3, p4, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 4 sts, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 29: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 8 sts, k2tog, yo, k3, kfb, k2 โ€” 20 sts.
Row 30: Sl 1 wyif, k3, p5, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 4 sts, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 31: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 9 sts, k2tog, yo, k4, kfb, k2 โ€” 21 sts.
Row 32: Sl 1 wyif, k3, p6, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 4 sts, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Repeat Rows 19โ€“32 only 29 more times โ€” 224 sts.

โœจ Designer Tip: Pop in a lifeline every 10-15 pattern repeats. It takes about 30 seconds and it will save you an hour of tinking if something goes sideways. Past-you will thank future-you every single time. New to lifelines? Watch my quick tutorial here.
Bright orange lace shawl with intricate stitchwork, outstretched indoors, plant and patterned rug visible in the background.

Border

Row 1 (RS): [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, k2, p3, * k4, p3; repeat from * 29 more times, k5.
Row 2: K8, * p4, k3; repeat from * 29 more times, p2, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until Border measures 2″ [5 cm].

Bind off all sts loosely in rib pattern.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends. Block to measurements as needed.

Blocking Tips

Okay, listen… if you skip blocking, you are literally leaving the magic on the table. Lace before blocking looks like crumpled fabric. Lace AFTER blocking looks like flames opening up across your shoulders. This is the single most important step in lace shawl knitting.

Soak the finished shawl in cool water with a splash of wool wash for about 20 minutes. No agitation, just let it drink. Squeeze out the water gently (don't wring!), roll in a towel and press to remove excess moisture. Lay flat on blocking mats and stretch to finished measurements, pinning or using blocking wires along the long edge to really open up the lace. Let dry completely before removing pins… this is usually 24 hours. Be patient.

Because this shawl uses a superwash merino, be a little careful with how aggressively you block… superwash can over-relax. Want a deep dive on blocking superwash yarn specifically? I've got you: Steam Blocking vs Wet Blocking Superwash Yarn.

Colorful knit blockers in a clear box with one blocker out, showing metal pins for blocking knitted or Tunisian crochet pieces.

Love This Yarn? More Patterns Using Fingering Weight!

If you've fallen for fingering weight (and honestly… who could blame you), you've got plenty of other Marly Bird patterns to enjoy with that same gorgeous drape and stitch definition. Here are some of my favorite fingering weight knit patterns to cast on next:

A triangular crochet shawl features mosaic, striped, and geometric stitches in pinks, purples, white, and gray on a mannequin.

Anne Slip Stitch Mosaic Knit Shawl

If Lehabah taught you to love fingering weight and lace, the Anne Slip Stitch Mosaic Knit Shawl takes you in a completely different direction… mosaic colorwork with bold geometric patterns, worked corner-to-corner. Same fingering weight love, completely different visual energy. Great for knitters who want to explore slipped-stitch colorwork without the float-juggling of stranded knitting.

My First Toe-Up Knit Socks

Fingering weight sock yarn is basically magic in your hands… and if you've been thinking about knitting your first pair of socks, my Toe-Up Knit Socks free pattern with the German Short Row heel is a beginner-friendly place to start. Same fingering weight you're already in love with from Lehabah, in a completely different (very practical) project.

Orange knit socks with wavy pink and white designs; one sock has a pink toe and cuff, the other white. Shown on wood surface.

Hint of Hazelnut Knit Socks

meg add something here

More Than Just Socks Fingerless Mittens

meg add something here

Fingerless gloves in pink speckled yarn shown on hands, highlighting stitch detail and texture. Dried leaves and flower add contrast.
Hand-knit socks with blue toes, heels, and cuffs, and a patterned center panel, shown on wooden blockers. Mini Madness Knit Helix Socks.

Mini Madness Knit Helix Socks

Meg add something here

Favorite & Queue on Ravelry

Please favorite and queue the Lehabah Fire Sprite Right Triangle Shawl on Ravelry and tag your finished projects #LehabahShawl or #mmmdi so I can see them! There is nothing I love more than watching your versions come to life… every color, every blocking shot, every glowing finished photo.

Favorite This Pattern on Ravelry - Marly Bird

More Knit Shawl Patterns You'll Love

Or browse the full Knit Shawl Patterns hub for every free shawl on the blog, sorted by shape, season, and skill level. Want to branch out beyond shawls? Check out my full library of free knit and crochet patterns… there is something here for every craft mood.

Woman models a hand-knit shawl with visible textured stitches; surrounded by crafting icons and pattern elements.

Frequently Asked Questions

What shape is the Lehabah shawl?

Lehabah is a right triangle shawl. That means it's constructed by increasing on ONE edge only, row after row, while the other edge stays straight. The result is an asymmetrical right-triangle silhouette with a long top edge (about 88 inches) that runs across your shoulders and a single point that hangs down your back. It's NOT a boomerang shawl… boomerangs require shaping on two edges to get that bent-wing curve. Right triangles like Lehabah are simpler to knit AND drape beautifully without sliding off your shoulders.

Can I substitute a different yarn?

Totally, yes. Just look for a fingering weight yarn (CYCA #1) with around 400 yards per 100g skein, and get 4 skeins for the full shawl. A little nylon content is nice for durability since superwash merino can relax a lot when blocked. Hand-dyed single-ply fingerings work beautifully here too.

Is this pattern really intermediate, or can a confident beginner try it?

Honestly… if you've done basic yarn overs and you can read a pattern with confidence, you can absolutely do this. The lace is a 2-row repeat and it's literally the same 7 stitches over and over. The edge pattern takes a few rows to click, but once it does, it becomes muscle memory. If you've never done lace at all, start with my Super Simple Rib and Lace Scarf & Cowlfirst.

Do I need blocking wires to finish this shawl?

You don't need them, but they make blocking a lace shawl so much faster and give you cleaner edges. If you don't have blocking wires, use lots of T-pins along the long edge. Either way, don't skip blocking… lace doesn't look like lace until it's opened up.

Why is it called Lehabah? Do I need to have read Crescent City?

Nope, you don't need to have read the books at all… the shawl is stunning on its own. But if you have read Sarah J. Maas's Crescent City series, you know Lehabah is the fire sprite with the biggest heart in Griffin Antiquities. The warm, flame-like lace and glowing colorway felt like the perfect tribute to her. Grab the book on Amazon and read while you knit… peak bookish-knitter energy.

What if I make a mistake in the lace section?

First… take a breath. It happens to all of us. If you've been using lifelines (please use lifelines ๐Ÿ™ see video below), just rip back to your last one and re-knit. If you didn't, you can carefully tink (un-knit) back stitch by stitch. My How to Tink video will walk you through it.

Can I make this shawl bigger or smaller?

Yes! The pattern repeats rows 19-32 thirty times total, so you can stop earlier for a smaller shawl or keep going for a bigger one. Just make sure you end on a Row 32 before starting the border, and adjust your yarn yardage accordingly. Each full 14-row repeat adds a few inches overall.

A person wears the Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl, a large knit wrap in blue with rich texture and subtle stitch detailing.

Can I make my shawl in a different color?

Absolutely… the color is yours to choose! While the original Lehabah is a warm flame-orange to honor the fire sprite character, this shawl looks absolutely stunning in just about every color you can imagine. Solids, hand-dyed tonals, gentle gradients… they all let the Columns of Lace stitch pattern shine. Want to see Lehabah knit up in other colorways? Scroll up to the Lehabah in Other Colors section for inspiration. The only thing I'd skip is a high-contrast variegated yarn… the color shifts can fight with the lace and hide the texture. Stick with subtle color movement and your shawl will be a showstopper in whatever shade speaks to you.

Where can I get the ad-free PDF?

You've got three options: Etsy, Shopify, or Ravelry. Same pattern, same price, pick whichever shop you prefer. Your purchase supports me as an indie designer and keeps the free patterns coming. ๐Ÿ’›

๐Ÿ›’ Buy the ad-free PDF on Etsy
๐Ÿ›๏ธ Buy the ad-free PDF on Shopify
๐Ÿงถ Buy the ad-free PDF on Ravelry

Person wearing a bright orange knitted Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl with eyelet stitch detail over a black top in a colorful room.

Final Thoughts

I love it when a book character crawls into my imagination and refuses to leave until I've made something in their honor. Lehabah did exactly that. This shawl is warm, a little dramatic, deeply snuggly, and it reminds me of her every time I wrap it around my shoulders.

If you cast it on, please please please share your progress… tag me @marlybird on Instagram or Facebook and use #MMMDI (Marly Made Me Do It), #MarlyBird, or #LehabahShawl so I can see it. I want every color, every blocking shot, every glowing finished photo. And if you're sitting there thinking “I've got three WIPs already, I shouldn't start another one”… friend, we both know the shawl wins. Cast on. ๐Ÿ”ฅ

Happy knitting, bestie.

โค๏ธ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

A cartoon avatar of a person with glasses and a brown bun smiles warmly. Their green shirt and black jacket add a stylish touch, while colorful hearts surround them like loving temperature blankets, stitching together an aura of love and positivity. -Marly Bird

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Free Solomon’s Knot Crochet Cotton Tee Pattern in 4 Sizes (S/M โ€“ 4X/5X)

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๐Ÿ“ Update โ€” May 2026: This pattern post has been fully refreshed with complete written instructions, special-stitch tutorials, schematic, blocking guidance, and updated yarn substitution links. Co-designer credit added for the brilliant Robyn Chachula, who collaborated with Marly on the design. Same beloved Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee… now with everything you need to make it from start to finish in one place.

The Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee is a free crochet tee pattern designed by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula, available in 4 sizes from S/M through 4X/5X. Worked in two panels from the hem up using a herringbone double crochet body and an airy Solomon's Knot stitch sleeve, this oversized cotton tee is a breezy summer layering piece… drapey, breathable, and made in widely available Bernat Softee Cotton (a 60% cotton / 40% acrylic light worsted blend). Skill level: intermediate.

If you have been waiting for a free crochet tee pattern that actually wears like real summer clothes… not a stiff fabric square with sleeves, not something so heavy you can't put it on past May… meet the Solomon's Knot Tee.

Hey, bestie ๐Ÿ’›

This tee is one of the patterns I get asked about most when summer rolls around. I co-designed it with the brilliant Robyn Chachula, and we built it for the very specific moment when you want a crocheted top that you'll actually wear in 80-degree weather. Cotton blend yarn for breathability. An open Solomon's Knot stitch in the sleeves so air moves through the fabric. Oversized fit with 4-8 inches of ease so nothing clings. Reversible stitch pattern so it looks great no matter how you grab it off the back of a chair at 7 a.m.

Here is what makes this tee special: it is crocheted in two simple panels that get whip-stitched together at the shoulders and sides, with sleeves added directly off the body without complicated armhole shaping. That construction means most of the project is meditative herringbone double crochet on a long row, broken up by a stunning Solomon's Knot lace section in the sleeves that looks way more advanced than it actually is.

If you have been curious about Solomon's Knot stitch (sometimes called the lover's knot)… this is the perfect pattern to learn it. You only need a few rows of it, and I am walking you through every step.

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and it helps keep these free patterns coming straight from my yarn-loving heart to yours. ๐Ÿ’›

Marly Bird wearing the Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee in Bernat Softee Cotton Dusk Sky, a free crochet tee pattern in sizes S/M to 4X/5X
๐ŸŒธ Spring Fling 2026: The Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee debuted as Day 4 of Spring Fling 2026, my 20-day knit and crochet pattern celebration. Browse all 20 patterns on the Spring Fling Hub โ†’

What You Will Love About This Pattern ๐Ÿ’–

๐Ÿ‘• A real summer crochet top. Cotton blend yarn, open Solomon's Knot lace in the sleeves, drapey not stiff. This isn't a “blanket masquerading as a top” pattern. You'll actually reach for it in July.

๐Ÿ“ Sizes S/M through 4X/5X. Four size groupings with 4-8 inches of positive ease. Designed to be oversized… if you're between sizes, you can size down for a closer fit.

๐Ÿงถ Two-panel construction. Crochet two flat panels (front + back), seam at the shoulders and sides, add sleeves directly off the body. No fiddly armhole shaping. No top-down math.

๐ŸŒฌ๏ธ Solomon's Knot sleeves. The open lace stitch in the sleeves looks intricate and is honestly just long loops + single crochet in a rhythmic pattern. You learn it in 10 minutes and it makes the whole tee look fancy.

Free Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee pattern by Marly Bird โ€” sizes S/M to 4X/5X in Bernat Softee Cotton, featuring open Solomon's Knot stitch sleeves and oversized cotton fit

๐Ÿ” Reversible stitch pattern. Both sides of the herringbone double crochet body look great. Pull it on inside-out and no one will know.

๐Ÿ’ฐ Affordable, accessible yarn. Bernat Softee Cotton is at Joann, Michaels, Walmart, and online for around $5 per ball. A full tee in the largest size needs 6 balls. Total project cost: under $35.

๐Ÿ‘ฏ Co-designed with Robyn Chachula. Robyn is one of the smartest construction designers in crochet, and her fingerprints are all over the smart panel sequencing here. Two industry veterans, one brilliantly simple summer top.

Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee styled with denim showing the open Solomon's Knot stitch sleeves and oversized drape

Quick Pattern Overview

๐ŸŽฏ Skill Level: Intermediate

๐Ÿ“ Finished Bust: 42.5 (50, 57, 66)” / 108 (127, 145, 167.5) cm. Sized S/M, L/XL, 2X/3X, 4X/5X. Designed with 4-8″ of positive ease for an oversized fit.

๐Ÿงถ Yarn: Bernat Softee Cotton (60% Cotton / 40% Acrylic, 254 yds/232 m, 4.2 oz/120 g, CYCA 3 light) in Dusk Sky. 3 (4, 5, 6) balls.

๐Ÿชก Hook: Size G/7 (4.5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.

๐Ÿ“ Gauge (blocked): 13 herringbone double crochet sts and 8 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10 cm x 10 cm. Use any size hook to obtain gauge.

โฑ๏ธ Estimated time: 25-40 hours depending on size and crochet speed. Most crocheters finish in 2-3 weeks of regular project time.

Marly Bird wearing the Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee in Dusk Sky Bernat Softee Cotton โ€” free crochet tee pattern in sizes S/M to 4X/5X

Is This Crochet Tee Right for You?

This pattern is a perfect match if you want a wearable summer crochet top and you're ready to learn one or two new stitches. You will be right at home if you can:

  • Chain, single crochet, half double crochet, and double crochet
  • Read a written pattern with multi-size instructions in parentheses
  • Whip stitch two pieces of crochet fabric together (linked video tutorial below)
  • Wet block a finished piece (spray, pin, dry… that's it)

The two new stitches you'll learn (or get more comfortable with) are foundation single crochet (fsc), herringbone double crochet, and Solomon's Knot. All three have linked video tutorials in this post… and once you learn them, you have them in your toolkit for life.

If chain, single crochet, and double crochet still feel uncertain, start with my BiCrafty Bootcamp: Learn to Crochet first. Build the foundation, then come back here for your summer wardrobe.

โœจ Designer Tip: The Solomon's Knot stitch sounds intimidating, but here's the secret… it's just a really long chain stitch with a single crochet “anchor” worked into its back loop. The whole “trick” is pulling that loop up to about ยพ inch (about 2 cm) every single time. Get a ruler out for the first 5-10 knots so your eye learns the length, and after that you'll do it on autopilot. Consistent loop length = consistent fabric.
Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee in Bernat Softee Cotton Dusk Sky shown flat, featuring herringbone double crochet body and Solomon's Knot lace sleeves โ€” free crochet tee pattern by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula

Explore More Free Crochet Top & Tee Patterns

If summer crochet tops are your thing, you are in good company. Browse the full collection or pick your next project:

What Is a Solomon's Knot Stitch?

The Solomon's Knot stitch (also called the lover's knot) is a classic crochet stitch that looks like an open, lacy mesh of long, knotted loops. It's worked from a foundation of regular crochet stitches and creates a fabric with lots of drape, lots of airflow, and a very distinctive textile look… think antique tablecloth or vintage shawl, modernized.

Mechanically it's two motions repeating: pull up a long loop (about ยพ inch / 2 cm), and then anchor that loop with a single crochet worked into the back loop you just created. Two stitches. That's the whole technique. The visual complexity comes from working those two stitches in a rhythmic grid… and from the magic of how the long loops drape after blocking.

You'll see Solomon's Knot in shawls, blankets, summer tops, and lace projects. It's especially loved for hot weather garments because the open structure breathes… very different from a dense single crochet fabric that can wear like cardboard in July.

For more Solomon's Knot patterns, see the Solomon's Knot Blanket and the Solomon's Knot Crochet Cuff (with video tutorial).

Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee styled over a black tank top โ€” free oversized crochet tee pattern in Bernat Softee Cotton Dusk Sky

Build Your Skills With This Pattern

The Solomon's Knot Tee is a quietly skill-building pattern. You'll come out the other side with three new techniques you can use for the rest of your crochet life:

๐Ÿชข Foundation single crochet (fsc). A starting row that creates the foundation chain and the first row of single crochet in one pass. No more counting and recounting a long, twisty chain. Once you learn this, you'll use it on every project that starts flat. >> Watch the Foundation Single Crochet Video <<

๐ŸŸ Herringbone double crochet. A subtle variation on regular double crochet where you draw the loop through the first loop on the hook before completing the stitch. The result is a slanted, tightly-woven texture that has more visual interest than a standard dc fabric. The whole body of the tee is herringbone dc. >> Watch the Herringbone Double Crochet Video <<

๐Ÿ’Ž Solomon's Knot. The signature stitch in the sleeves. Looks complicated, is honestly two motions repeated rhythmically. Once you know it, you can use it for shawls, blankets, scarves, summer wraps… it's a forever stitch.

โœจ Designer Tip: Practice each special stitch on a small swatch BEFORE you start the tee. Make a 4″ x 4″ foundation single crochet swatch, then a 4″ x 4″ herringbone double crochet swatch (this also confirms your gauge), and then a 6-row Solomon's Knot swatch. By the time your swatches are done you'll have all three techniques in muscle memory and the actual project will feel easy.
Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee styled over a white tank, showing the openwork Solomon's Knot stitch sleeves and drapey cotton fabric โ€” free crochet tee pattern by Marly Bird

Yarn & Materials

Yarn: The Solomon's Knot Tee is designed in Bernat Softee Cotton, a 60% cotton / 40% acrylic blend in the CYCA 3 (light worsted / DK) weight. The cotton gives breathability and a crisp stitch definition; the acrylic gives a little bit of bounce and machine washability. The colorway shown is Dusk Sky.

You'll need 3 (4, 5, 6) balls depending on your size, at 254 yards / 232 meters per 120 g ball.

Get the yarn: Bernat Softee Cotton (Marly's favorite source). Also widely available at Herrschners, Michaels, Yarnspirations, and Amazon.

Bernat Softee Cotton yarn in Dusk Sky โ€” 60% cotton 40% acrylic CYCA 3 light worsted blend used for the Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee free pattern

Yarn Substitutions

If you can't get Bernat Softee Cotton or want to use what's in your stash, look for a CYCA 3 (light worsted / DK) yarn that's predominantly cotton or a cotton/acrylic blend. The pattern depends on the cotton's slight stiffness for fabric structure and the acrylic for ease of care. Avoid 100% wool (too warm) and avoid 100% acrylic (the fabric won't hold the Solomon's Knot shape as crisply). Three good substitutes:

  • Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton… 100% mercerized cotton, slightly heavier drape
  • Berroco Remix Light DK… recycled cotton/acrylic/nylon/silk/linen blend, drapey and summer-perfect
  • WeCrochet/KnitPicks Dishie (held single)… 100% cotton, budget-friendly

Whatever yarn you choose: swatch and block your swatch first. The drape after blocking is the drape your tee will have, and cotton substitutes often surprise you.

Hooks & Notions

You'll need a size G/7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge), stitch markers, a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, blocking mats and pins, and a spray water bottle for blocking.

โญ๏ธ Marly Bird Amazon Storefront โญ๏ธ

Video Tutorials

Every special technique in this pattern has a free video tutorial. Watch before you start and you'll save yourself hours of “wait, what does that mean?”:

Love the Pattern but Want an Ad-Free PDF?

If you'd rather print a clean, ad-free PDF of the Solomon's Knot Tee for your project bag, you have three options:

Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee ad-free PDF mockup โ€” buy the printable pattern on Etsy, Shopify, or Ravelry
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Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee โ€” Pattern Details

Skill Level

Intermediate. Comfortable with basic crochet stitches plus willingness to learn foundation single crochet, herringbone double crochet, and Solomon's Knot.

Sizes

S/M (L/XL, 2X/3X, 4X/5X). The top is oversized with 4-8″ of ease. Sweater shown is 2X/3X.

Note about size: When picking out your size, make sure you check the finished bust. The sweater is designed to be oversized… just to keep in mind, if you are between 2 sizes, you can certainly make it one size smaller to have a tighter fit.

Finished Bust Measurement

42.5 (50, 57, 66)” / 108 (127, 145, 167.5) cm bust circumference.

Gauge

Blocked gauge: 13 herringbone double crochet sts and 8 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10 cm x 10 cm. Check your gauge. Use any size hook to obtain gauge. Swatch is all herringbone double crochet stitches.

Materials

Yarn: Bernat Softee Cotton (60% Cotton / 40% Acrylic, 254 yds/232 m, 4.2 oz/120 g, CYCA 3 light): Dusk Sky, 3 (4, 5, 6) balls.

Hook: G/7 (4.5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, blocking mats and blocking pins, spray water bottle for blocking (optional).

โญ๏ธ Marly Bird Amazon Storefront โญ๏ธ

Abbreviations

  • ch โ€” chain(s)
  • hdc โ€” half double crochet
  • dc โ€” double crochet
  • dtr โ€” double treble crochet
  • fsc โ€” foundation single crochet
  • pm โ€” place marker
  • rev sc โ€” reverse single crochet
  • RS โ€” right side
  • sc โ€” single crochet
  • sl st โ€” slip stitch
  • sp(s) โ€” space(s)
  • st(s) โ€” stitch(es)
  • t-ch โ€” turning chain
  • WS โ€” wrong side

Special Stitches

Foundation Single Crochet (fsc).
First fsc: Ch 2 (does not count as sc), insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook (this forms a chain… optional note: placing a stitch marker can help you see the chain in the next stitch), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (this forms the single crochet).
Next fsc: Insert hook into bottom of previous stitch (in the “chain” space), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook (forming a chain), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (forming the next single crochet). Repeat directions for the desired number of stitches.

Herringbone Double Crochet (herringbone dc). Yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop and through 1 loop on hook, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook.

Reverse Single Crochet (rev sc). Also known as crab stitch. Working from left to right, insert hook from front to back in the next stitch to the right, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook.

Solomon's Knot. Draw up a long loop (about ยพ” / 2 cm), yarn over and gently pull through loop on hook (do not pull tight… it should look like a long chain), sc around back loop of stitch just made.

Stitch Diagram

The crochet stitch diagram is exclusive to the ad-free pdf.

Schematic

Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee schematic showing finished bust, length, neck opening, and sleeve dimensions for sizes S/M, L/XL, 2X/3X, and 4X/5X

Notes

  • Directions are for smallest size; changes for other sizes are in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
  • Top is worked in 2 panels from the bottom hem to the shoulders. Sleeves are added directly off the body… with chains on one side and foundation single crochet on the other.
  • Stitch pattern is reversible.

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Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee pattern cover by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula โ€” free crochet tee pattern in Bernat Softee Cotton, sizes S/M to 4X/5X

Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee โ€” Pattern Instructions

Body (Make 2 Panels)

Foundation Row (WS): 69 (81, 93, 107) fsc (see Special Stitches), turn.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), herringbone dc in each st across to last, hdc in last st, turn.

Repeat Row 1 7 (9, 11, 13) more times or to desired length of body (ending on a WS row), do not fasten off.

โœจ Designer Tip: The body length is meant to be customized. The pattern as written gives you a cropped tee… if you want a longer length (regular tee or tunic), repeat Row 1 more times before moving to the sleeves. Just make sure you end on a WS row so your sleeves start on the RS. Each additional row adds about ยฝ” / 1.25 cm of length.

Sleeves โ€” Solid Section

The sleeves are added directly off the body. The Row 1 instruction adds chains on one side and foundation single crochet on the other to create the sleeve width.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 19 (17, 17, 16), sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, hdc in first st on body, herringbone dc in each st across to last, hdc in last st, 18 (16, 16, 15) fsc, turn โ€” 105 (113, 125, 137) sts.

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), herringbone dc in each st across to last, hdc in last st, turn.

Repeat Row 2 5 (7, 9, 11) times.

Sleeves โ€” Solomon's Knot Section

See stitch diagram for assistance with this section.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first st, *make 2 Solomon's Knots, skip 3 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * across to end, turn โ€” 52 (56, 62, 68) Solomon's Knots.

Row 2: Ch 5 (counts as a dtr), make 1 Solomon's Knot, *sc in sc between the next 2 Solomon's Knots, make 2 Solomon's Knots; repeat across to last 2 Solomon's Knots, sc in sc between the last 2 Solomon's Knots, make 1 Solomon's Knot, dtr in last sc, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in dtr, *ch 3, sc in next sc (between the 2 Solomon's Knots); repeat from * across to t-ch, ch 3, sc in t-ch, turn โ€” 26 (28, 31, 34) ch-3 sps.

Row 4: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), *3 herringbone dc in next ch-3 sp, herringbone dc in next sc; repeat from * across to last ch-3 sp, 3 herringbone dc in last ch-3 sp, hdc in last st, turn โ€” 105 (113, 125, 137) sts.

Marly Bird wearing the Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee in Bernat Softee Cotton Dusk Sky, a free crochet tee pattern in sizes S/M to 4X/5X

Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), herringbone dc in each st across to t-ch, hdc in top of t-ch, turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first st, *make 2 Solomon's Knots, skip 3 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * across to end, turn โ€” 52 (56, 62, 68) Solomon's Knots.

Row 7: Ch 5 (counts as a dtr), make 1 Solomon's Knot, *sc in sc between the next 2 Solomon's Knots, make 2 Solomon's Knots; repeat across to last 2 Solomon's Knots, sc in sc between the last 2 Solomon's Knots, make 1 Solomon's Knot, dtr in last sc, turn.

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in dtr, *make 2 Solomon's Knots, sc in next sc (between the 2 Solomon's Knots); repeat from * across to t-ch, make 2 Solomon's Knots, sc in t-ch, turn.

Row 9: Ch 5 (counts as a dtr), make 1 Solomon's Knot, *sc in sc between the next 2 Solomon's Knots, make 2 Solomon's Knots; repeat across to last 2 Solomon's Knots, sc in sc between the last 2 Solomon's Knots, make 1 Solomon's Knot, dtr in last sc, turn.

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in dtr, *ch 3, sc in next sc (between the 2 Solomon's Knots); repeat from * across to t-ch, ch 3, sc in t-ch, turn โ€” 26 (28, 31, 34) ch-3 sps.

Row 11: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), *3 herringbone dc in next ch-3 sp, herringbone dc in next sc; repeat from * across to last ch-3 sp, 3 herringbone dc in last ch-3 sp, hdc in last st, turn โ€” 105 (113, 125, 137) sts.

Row 12: Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), herringbone dc in each st across to t-ch, hdc in top of t-ch, turn.

Row 13: Ch 1, sc in first st, *make 2 Solomon's Knots, skip 3 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * across to end, turn โ€” 52 (56, 62, 68) Solomon's Knots.

Row 14: Ch 5 (counts as a dtr), make 1 Solomon's Knot, *sc in sc between the next 2 Solomon's Knots, make 2 Solomon's Knots; repeat across to last 2 Solomon's Knots, sc in sc between the last 2 Solomon's Knots, make 1 Solomon's Knot, dtr in last sc, turn.

Row 15: Ch 1, sc in dtr, *ch 3, sc in next sc (between the 2 Solomon's Knots); repeat from * across to t-ch, ch 3, sc in t-ch, turn โ€” 26 (28, 31, 34) ch-3 sps.

Row 16: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), *3 herringbone dc in next ch-3 sp, herringbone dc in next sc; repeat from * across to last ch-3 sp, 3 herringbone dc in last ch-3 sp, hdc in last st, turn โ€” 105 (113, 125, 137) sts.

Row 17: Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), herringbone dc in each st across to t-ch, hdc in top of t-ch, turn.

Row 18: Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), herringbone dc in each st across to t-ch, hdc in top of t-ch. Fasten off.

Marly Bird modeling the Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee in Bernat Softee Cotton, showing the airy Solomon's Knot stitch sleeves and oversized fit โ€” free crochet tee pattern

Finishing

Weave in all ends.

Pin panels to schematic size, lightly spray with water and allow to dry.

Hold RS of both panels together. Whip stitch underarm and side seam on each side of panel. Whip stitch shoulder seam together leaving a 12 (12, 13, 13)” or desired opening for neck. Turn RS out.

Join yarn to bottom edge of body with a sl st, ch 1, reverse sc around edge of body, sl st to first st, fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat on sleeve openings and neck opening.

Blocking Tips

Blocking matters for this tee. The herringbone double crochet body opens up beautifully after a wet block, and the Solomon's Knot sleeves go from “OK that's lacy” to “wow that's lace” once the long loops relax into their finished shape.

Wet blocking is the method for Bernat Softee Cotton (and any cotton blend). Lay the panels on blocking mats or a clean towel, pin them to the schematic dimensions, and lightly spray with water from a spray bottle until the fabric is evenly damp (not soaking). Smooth the stitches with your fingers, especially the Solomon's Knots… gently pull each long loop to its full length so the lace structure shows clearly. Let the panels dry completely (usually 6-12 hours) before unpinning.

If you substitute a different yarn, check the yarn label for blocking instructions. Most cotton blends respond well to wet blocking. Avoid steam blocking acrylic-heavy yarns at high heat… acrylic can melt or flatten permanently.

โœจ Designer Tip: Block the panels BEFORE you seam them. The drape and dimensions change after blocking, and seaming pre-blocked panels gives you cleaner seams than seaming and then blocking. It also lets you confirm your finished bust circumference before you commit to the side seams… if you want to size up or down a touch, this is the moment.
Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee styled over a white tank, showing the openwork Solomon's Knot stitch sleeves and drapey cotton fabric โ€” free crochet tee pattern by Marly Bird

Love This Yarn? More Patterns Using Bernat Softee Cotton

If you fall in love with Bernat Softee Cotton (and you will… it's affordable, soft, and washable), here are more crochet patterns that use it or a comparable cotton blend:

Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee ad-free PDF mockup โ€” buy the printable pattern on Etsy, Shopify, or Ravelry

Favorite & Queue on Ravelry

Please favorite and queue the Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee on Ravelry and tag your finished projects #SolomonsKnotTee so I can see them. Every color, every body, every finished photo… absolutely made my week.

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More Crochet Patterns You'll Love

Or browse my full library of free knit and crochet patterns for every free pattern on the blog.

Looking for a sleeveless, fingering-weight version? Designer Sati Glenn created an earlier sleeveless Solomon's Knot tee for WeCrochet using KnitPicks Gloss Fingering (merino/silk) with the Solomon's Knot stitch on the hem only. It's a totally different garment from the cotton tee on this page, but if that sleeveless fingering-weight version is what you came looking for, find Sati's pattern through WeCrochet here.

Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee FAQ section โ€” frequently asked questions about the free crochet tee pattern by Marly Bird

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Solomon's Knot Tee really intermediate? It looks complicated.

Honestly, yes… but the “intermediate” label is mostly because of three special stitches you'll learn (foundation single crochet, herringbone double crochet, and Solomon's Knot), not because the construction is complex. Once you have those three stitches in your hands, the body of the tee is just rows of one stitch back and forth. The Solomon's Knot section in the sleeves is the showpiece, and it's much easier than it looks. All three special stitches have linked video tutorials.

What yarn can I substitute for Bernat Softee Cotton?

Any CYCA 3 (light worsted / DK) cotton or cotton-blend yarn that matches gauge on a G/7 (4.5 mm) hook. Good substitutes include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton (mercerized cotton), Berroco Remix Light DK (recycled cotton/acrylic/nylon/silk/linen blend… drapey and summer-perfect), and WeCrochet Dishie (100% cotton… not our favorite for this but it would work). Avoid 100% wool (too warm for a summer tee) and avoid 100% acrylic (the stitch pattern needs cotton's slight stiffness to hold its shape).

How long does this crochet tee take to make?

Most crocheters finish in 25-40 hours depending on size and crochet speed. A realistic timeline is 2-3 weeks of regular project time. The two-panel construction means you can break it into two sessions of focused work plus a quick seaming session, so it's a great “I want a finished garment soon” project.

Can I make this tee longer or shorter?

Yes, easily. The body length is fully customizable… after the foundation row, repeat Row 1 as many times as you want before moving to the sleeves. The pattern as written gives you a cropped-to-regular tee. For tunic length, add 8-12 more rows. Each repeat of Row 1 adds about ยฝ” / 1.25 cm of length. Just make sure you end on a WS row before starting the sleeves.

What is a Solomon's Knot stitch?

The Solomon's Knot stitch (sometimes called the lover's knot) is an open, lacy crochet stitch made of long pulled-up loops anchored with single crochet. It creates a breathable, drapey fabric that's especially loved for summer garments and shawls. Mechanically it's just two motions: pull up a long loop (ยพ” / 2 cm) and anchor it with a single crochet in the back loop. Repeat in a rhythmic grid and you get the signature open lace look.

How do I care for this cotton crochet tee?

Bernat Softee Cotton is machine washable. For best results and longest life, machine wash on cool/gentle in a mesh laundry bag, and lay flat to dry. The acrylic content makes it more durable than 100% cotton, and the cotton content keeps it breathable. Re-block lightly if it ever loses its shape after washing… a quick spray and pin will bring back the drape.

Do I have to block this tee?

Yes, please. Blocking is what transforms the Solomon's Knot stitch from “rows of long loops” into the final lace fabric. Blocking is also how you confirm your finished dimensions match the schematic. Wet blocking (light spray + pin to schematic + dry) takes about 20 minutes of active work and 6-12 hours of drying. The pattern is designed for blocked dimensions, so skipping this step means your tee won't fit as designed.

Where can I get the ad-free PDF?

The ad-free PDF is available on Etsy, Shopify, and Ravelry. The PDF is the same pattern formatted cleanly for print, with the schematic and stitch diagram included. Many crocheters prefer it for travel projects or to keep in a project bag.

Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee ad-free PDF mockup โ€” buy the printable pattern on Etsy, Shopify, or Ravelry
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๐Ÿ’ฌ Final Thoughts

This tee has a special place in my heart. It's the pattern I reach for when someone asks “what's a beautiful summer crochet top that doesn't take six months?” It's the one I recommend when a crocheter wants to learn Solomon's Knot but feels intimidated by big lace projects. And it's the one I see in my comments and DMs every spring as soon as the weather warms up… readers asking “is this still available?” “Can you re-share the pattern?” “I want to make this for vacation.”

Thank you for being here, for letting me design for you, and for being the reason I get to keep sharing free patterns. If you make the Solomon's Knot Tee, please share your finished project with me. Tag @marlybird on social media or use #SolomonsKnotTee. Seeing your versions is one of the best parts of my week.

Love, Your BiCrafty Bestie, Marly Bird

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“

Blood of My Blood Shawl: Free Outlander Knit Shawl Pattern

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The Blood of My Blood Shawl is a free Outlander-inspired knit shawl pattern featuring a dramatic half-hexagon silhouette, intertwined cables and lace, and a romantic nod to Claire and Jamie Fraser's wedding vows in Diana Gabaldon's Outlander.

Worked center-out on US 4 needles in lace weight yarn, available in three sizes (S/M/L) with wingspans from 56ยฝ to 68 inches. Skill level: adventurous beginner.

“Ye are Blood of my Blood, and Bone of my Bone.” If you know, you know. The Blood of My Blood Shawl is my free knit shawl pattern for every Outlander fan who has ever cried at a wedding scene (just me? okay, just me). And yes… the timing of the new Blood of My Blood Outlander prequel series on Starz could not be more perfect.

Whether you're rewatching Claire and Jamie's love story or diving into the new prequel about Brian and Ellen Fraser (Jamie's parents) and Henry and Julia Beauchamp (Claire's parents), this shawl is your fandom uniform. โค๏ธ

Inspired by Claire and Jamie's vows from Diana Gabaldon's beloved series, this half-hexagon shawl pairs intertwined cables with delicate lace… a stitch-level symbol of two lives woven together.

A bright red knit Outlander shawl with visible stitch detail is spread wide across the back of a person facing a stone wall.

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and it helps keep these free patterns coming straight from my yarn-loving heart to yours. ๐Ÿ’›

๐ŸŒธ Spring Fling 2026 Kickoff Pattern: The Blood of My Blood Knit Shawl debuted as Day 1 of Spring Fling 2026, my 20-day knit and crochet pattern celebration. Cast on, share your progress, and tag me @themarlybird with #BloodOfMyBloodShawl + #SpringFling2026 to be featured. Bookish-knitter shoutouts always make my newsletter โค๏ธ๐Ÿด

Hey, bestie ๐Ÿ’›

If you've ever finished an Outlander book and immediately needed to cast on something wool, tartan-adjacent, and slightly dramatic… welcome home. This shawl is for you. It's for the Outlander reader. It's for the Starz viewer. It's for anyone who has ever thought “I'd like to look like I stepped out of 1743 but, you know, still have WiFi.” And here's something I rarely share: I got to interview Diana Gabaldon herself on my podcast back in 2014, and she was every bit as warm and brilliant as her books are. If you want to hear our conversation, it's still right here on the blog.

Now let's talk about this shawl.

Woman models a red lace-knit shawl with delicate openwork texture, worn over a white top; shown outdoors.

What You Will Love About This Pattern ๐Ÿ’–

๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ It's a love letter to Outlander fans (including the new Blood of My Blood prequel series). The name comes straight from Claire and Jamie's marriage vows, and the intertwined cables and lace represent two lives woven into one. If you are an Outlander reader, a Starz Outlander viewer, or a fan of the new Blood of My Blood Outlander prequel, this shawl was made for you.

๐Ÿฆ‹ The half-hexagon shape has serious wingspan. At 56ยฝ to 68 inches wide (depending on size), this shawl wraps, drapes, and absolutely makes an entrance. It's the kind of shawl you want on your shoulders when something dramatic is about to happen.

๐Ÿงถ It's written in three sizes. Small, Medium, and Large. You get to pick the wingspan that feels right for your frame and your vibe.

โœจ The body is garter stitch (meditative) and the edging is cables + lace (stunning). You get hours of easy knit-every-row flow followed by a dramatic finishing section that will make you feel like an heirloom knitter.

๐Ÿ“š It's perfect for bingeing the books or the show. The garter body is ideal for reading-while-knitting. Cue up Outlander Season 1 Episode 7 and cast on.

Woman models a red Blood of My Blood shawl, knit in textured yarn, over a white sweater, seated by a stone wall.

Quick Pattern Overview

๐ŸŽฏ Skill Level: Confident beginner. If you can knit, purl, YO, k2tog, ssk, and you're willing to try a simple 2/2 cable, you've got this.

๐Ÿ“ Finished Size: S (M, L). Wingspan: 56ยฝ (62ยฝ, 68) inches. Maximum depth: 24 (26ยฝ, 29) inches.

๐Ÿงถ Yarn: 2 (2, 3) balls of lace weight silk blend, originally Bijou Basin Ranch Shangri La (now discontinued… see substitute options below).

๐Ÿชก Needles: US 4 (3.5mm) circular, 32″ or longer.

๐Ÿ“ Gauge: 24 sts = 4 inches in garter stitch. Precise gauge is not essential… but it will affect total yarn yardage.

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A woman with glasses and curly hair models a colorful crocheted scarf, showing textured stitches and vibrant yarn.

Is This Knit Shawl Right for You?

This pattern is a perfect fit if you want a project that feels meaningful but isn't technically overwhelming. The body is garter stitch center-out construction (knit every row, with simple yarn-over increases at the sides and center spine). That means hours of meditative knitting while you binge Outlander or re-read Dragonfly in Amber for the seventh time.

The cables-and-lace edging IS more involved… but it's also short (just 48-72 rows), well-charted, and every row is either working the 12-row pattern repeat or purling/knitting back. If you can follow a chart and count, you can absolutely do this.

If you've never cabled before, don't panic. I've got a quick video for the 2/2 Right Cable used in this pattern. Two minutes of watching, and you'll have it. Truly.

โœจ Designer Tip: The garter body is the perfect “movie knitting” section. Cast on and watch Outlander Season 1, then switch to the cables-and-lace edging when you need something that requires focus. Time yourself… you will almost certainly finish the body by the end of Season 2. (Don't quote me on that. But maybe.)
Bright red Outlander shawl in a textured knit drapes over a white sweater; worn by a woman outdoors with blurred greenery.

Explore More Knit Shawl Patterns

The Blood of My Blood Shawl is part of my growing collection of free knit shawl patterns. Browse the full Knit Shawl Patterns hub to find every free shawl organized by shape, season, and skill level.

If you love this one, you'll probably also love:

Green Boomerang Knit Shawl draped over shoulders, showing textured stitches and neat edges in a bright, creative space.
Return to Me Boomerang Shawl
A person wears a textured, bright orange knitted scarf styled like the Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl, with yarn shelves in the background.
Lehabah Fire Sprite Boomerang Shawl
Person models a blue and yellow Tunisian crochet scarf with bold stripes, highlighting stitch texture and drape.
Make It Mine Triangle Shawl
Teal, gray, and beige Outlander knit shawl with textured stitches, modeled indoors by a woman with curly hair and glasses.
Tilted Blocks Half Circle Knit Shawl
Person models a green knit scarf with textured stitches, inspired by a one ball shawl pattern, paired with a denim jacket.
Peak Serenity Right Triangle Knit Shawl

What Is a Half-Hexagon Shawl, Anyway?

Great question. A half-hexagon shawl is a shawl shape worked from a small center point outward, with shaping placed at set “spokes” rather than evenly around a curve. Instead of forming a smooth half-circle, the increases create three flat edges that meet at angles… giving the finished shawl a structured, geometric silhouette with crisp angular lines.

Compared to a traditional triangle or a boomerang, the half-hexagon shape has a more even drape across both shoulders and gives you that dramatic wingspan when your arms are outstretched. It is also incredibly flattering on every body type because the angled construction sits across your shoulders without bulk and creates clean, modern lines that stand out from rounder shawl shapes.

The Blood of My Blood is a half-hexagon worked center-out, which means you cast on just 3 stitches, increase rapidly in the first few rows, then settle into an easy garter rhythm with regular increases at four shaping points (two edges + two center spine stitches). Those four shaping points are what give the shawl its angular half-hexagon outline… which, not for nothing, looks incredible spread across a castle wall or a Scottish moor. Just saying.

A bright red Blood of My Blood knit shawl with visible texture drapes over a person, displayed outdoors on a wooden path.

Build Your Skills with This Shawl

Even as an adventurous beginner project, Blood of My Blood gives you a handful of skills worth locking in. You'll practice center-out half-hexagon construction, working yarn-over increases at multiple points, reading from a chart, working a simple cable, and blocking a large lace-edged shawl to its final dramatic silhouette.

Need a refresher on any of the abbreviations? My knitting definitions page has every term you'll see in this pattern. Brand new to knitting or want to build your foundation before casting on? Start with my BiCrafty Bootcamp: Learn to Knit… it's where all my beginners start.

Want to go deeper into shawl knitting techniques like lace edgings, short row shaping, and advanced blocking? Come join me live at BiCrafty Stitch-Nite at Marly Bird House… that is where I teach the skills that turn a beginner into a shawl lover for life.

Marly Bird models a textured green knit boomerang shawl with bold stitch definition, worn over a black top in a cozy room.

Yarn & Materials (Plus Substitute Yarns Because the Original Is Discontinued)

The original Blood of My Blood Shawl was designed in Bijou Basin Ranch Shangri La, a luxurious 50% silk / 50% yak down lace-weight yarn in the colorway Ruby. It was gorgeous. It also… is no longer being made ๐Ÿ˜ญ. So let's talk substitutes.

What to look for in a substitute: a CYCA #0 lace weight yarn with approximately 400 yards per 2-ounce ball. Silk content gives you that drape and subtle sheen the original is known for. A merino/silk blend is an excellent (and more budget-friendly) replacement. Pure silk gives you maximum drape and luxe feel. A silk/mohair or silk/alpaca blend gives you that halo-y, ethereal look that's very Claire-coming-home-through-the-stones.

My six recommended substitutes, from closest match to the original to fun alternatives worth considering:

  • ๐Ÿฅ‡ KnitPicks Gloss Lace… 70% merino / 30% silk, lace weight. The closest substitute to the original Shangri La in fiber blend and drape. This is my top pick.
  • ๐Ÿฅˆ Malabrigo Silkpaca… 70% baby alpaca / 30% silk, lace weight. A luxe hand-dyed option with that dreamy halo. The baby alpaca content adds softness and warmth while the silk gives it shine. Gorgeous in a deep red.
  • ๐Ÿฅ‰ KnitPicks Luminance Lace… 100% silk, lace weight. Maximum sheen and drape if you want to really lean into the heirloom vibe.
  • โœจ Dream in Color Smooshy Cashmere… for the ultimate softness splurge. If you want this shawl to feel like a Jamie hug (I said what I said), the cashmere content is unmatched.
  • โ˜๏ธ KnitPicks Alpaca Cloud Lace… 100% alpaca, lace weight. Incredibly soft and drapey with a subtle halo. A beautiful budget-friendly option.
  • ๐Ÿ“ KnitPicks Gloss Fingering… 70% merino / 30% silk, fingering weight (not lace). Use this if you want a slightly larger shawl with more body. You'll need to adjust your yardage and will end up with a more substantial fabric than the original lace weight version. Great option if lace weight feels intimidating.

For the lace weight options (Gloss Lace, Silkpaca, Luminance, Smooshy Cashmere, Alpaca Cloud), you'll need approximately 800-1200 yards depending on your size (two or three skeins). For the Gloss Fingering option, aim for 1000-1400 yards since the fabric will be slightly denser and the shawl slightly larger. When in doubt, buy a little extra… running out on row 300 of a garter body is a form of heartbreak I do not recommend.

Needles: US 4 (3.5mm) circular, 32 inches or longer. I shop my KnitPicks needles for projects like this because you can grab exactly the size and length you need (and interchangeable sets are the ultimate shawl-knitter upgrade… trust me).

Notions for blocking: Blocking wires are ideal for the straight edges of a lace-edged shawl and make a massive difference in your finished result. If you don't already have them, grab a set of blocking wires… they are a forever investment in your knitting toolkit.

I also swear by Eucalan Wool Wash (no-rinse, conditions your yarn as it cleans, and the scent is my favorite)… perfect for wet-blocking a silk-blend shawl. And if you're working from hand-dyed hanks, a ball winder and swift will save you from tangled-yarn rage every single time.

โœจ Designer Tip: Because this shawl is worked in lace weight yarn, it wants to GROW when you block it. The original sample could have stretched to 5XL if I let it. Be aggressive about pinning to your target measurements and gentle about stretching… superwash silk yarns especially can relax and keep relaxing. Check the schematic before you pin.
A woman outdoors models a red lace-knit shawl over a white sweater, showing its lightweight texture and openwork stitch detail.

Video Tutorials

If you are a visual learner, these videos will walk you through every technique in the pattern:

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The full pattern below is 100% free… thank you for supporting the site by reading through the ads! But if you'd rather have a clean, printable, ad-free PDF (no pop-ups, no scrolling, just pure pattern + your knitting chair), I've got you.

๐Ÿ›’ Buy the ad-free PDF on Etsy
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Woman models a vivid red Outlander-inspired knit shawl with intricate stitchwork, next to printed pattern pages.
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Blood of My Blood Shawl โ€” Pattern Details

Skill Level

Adventurous Beginner

Measurements

To Fit Sizes: S (M, L)

Finished Measurements:
Wingspan: 56ยฝ (62ยฝ, 68)” [143.5 (159, 172.5) cm]
Maximum Depth: 24 (26ยฝ, 29)” [61 (67.5, 73.5) cm]

Gauge

24 sts = 4″ [10 cm] in garter stitch (knit every row).

Note: Precise gauge is not essential for this item, but may affect total yarn amounts required.

Materials

Yarn: 2 (2, 3) balls of lace weight yarn (CYCA #0), approximately 400 yds / 366 m per 2 oz / 57 g ball. Original yarn: Bijou Basin Ranch Shangri La (50% silk / 50% yak down) in Ruby… now discontinued. See substitute yarn recommendations above.

Needles: US 4 [3.5mm] 32″ [81.5 cm] or longer circular needle, or size to obtain gauge.

Note: Shawl is worked back and forth in rows. Circular needles are used to accommodate the full width of the stitches.

Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, scissors, tape measure, stitch saver cord, cable needle, notions bag, blocking squares, blocking pins, soaking basin, wool wash (I love Eucalan), blocking wires (ideal for lace work), ball winder and swift (great for yarn that comes in hanks), and a steamer.

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Abbreviations

  • 2/2 RC โ€“ 2/2 Right Cable (see Cable Stitches)
  • CDD โ€“ Center Double Decrease (see Special Stitches)
  • K โ€“ Knit
  • K2tog โ€“ Knit Two Together
  • P โ€“ Purl
  • Pm โ€“ Place Marker
  • RS โ€“ Right Side
  • S2kp โ€“ Slip 2, Knit, Pass (see Special Stitches)
  • Slm โ€“ Slip Marker
  • Ssk โ€“ Slip, Slip, Knit (see Special Stitches)
  • St(s) โ€“ Stitch(es)
  • WS โ€“ Wrong Side
  • YO โ€“ Yarn Over

Special Stitches

โญ Center Double Decrease (CDD): Slip next 2 stitches knitwise at the same time, knit next stitch, pass slipped stitches over knit stitch (same as S2kp) โ€” 2 stitches decreased.

โญ Slip, Slip, Knit (Ssk): Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, as if to knit. Insert left needle into the front of these 2 stitches and knit them together from this position โ€” 1 stitch decreased.

โญ Flat Slip, Slip, Knit (Flat Ssk):
Note: This is an alternate ssk method that lies flatter and looks more similar to a reversed k2tog.
Insert needle in front leg of next st but do not knit it, insert needle in back leg of second st on left needle, yarn over and knit both of these sts together (1 st decreased).

Cable Stitches

โญ 2/2 RC (2/2 Right Cable): Slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in back, knit 2 stitches from left needle, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle.

Stitch Pattern: Cables and Lace

Worked over a multiple of 17 sts plus 3 (minimum 37 sts).

Row 1 (RS): K1, k2tog, k2, YO, * p1, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, YO, k2, CDD, k2, YO; repeat from * to last 15 sts, p1, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, YO, k2, ssk, k1.
Row 2 (and all WS rows): P5, k3, p4, k3, * p7, k3, p4, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.
Row 3: K1, k2tog, k1, YO, k1, * p1, k1, p1, 2/2 RC, [p1, k1] twice, YO, k1, CDD, k1, YO, k1; repeat from * to last 15 sts, p1, k1, p1, 2/2 RC, [p1, k1] twice, YO, k1, ssk, k1.
Row 4: P5, k3, p4, k3, * p7, k3, p4, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.
Row 5: K1, k2tog, YO, k2, * p1, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, k2, YO, CDD, YO, k2; repeat from * to last 15 sts, p1, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, k2, YO, ssk, k1.
Row 6: P5, k3, p4, k3, * p7, k3, p4, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.
Row 7: K1, k2tog, k2, YO, * p1, k1, p1, 2/2 RC, p1, k1, p1, YO, k2, CDD, k2, YO; repeat from * to last 15 sts, p1, k1, p1, 2/2 RC, p1, k1, p1, YO, k2, ssk, k1.
Row 8: P5, k3, p4, k3, * p7, k3, p4, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.
Row 9: K1, k2tog, k1, YO, k1, * p1, k1, p1, k4, [p1, k1] twice, YO, k1, CDD, k1, YO, k1; repeat from * to last 15 sts, p1, k1, p1, k4, [p1, k1] twice, YO, k1, ssk, k1.
Row 10: P5, k3, p4, k3, * p7, k3, p4, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.
Row 11: K1, k2tog, YO, k2, * p1, k1, p1, 2/2 RC, p1, k1, p1, k2, YO, CDD, YO, k2; repeat from * to last 15 sts, p1, k1, p1, 2/2 RC, p1, k1, p1, k2, YO, ssk, k1.
Row 12: P5, k3, p4, k3, * p7, k3, p4, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.

Repeat Rows 1-12 for Cables and Lace pattern.

Charts

โญ๏ธCharts for this pattern are available in the ad-free pdf only! Upgrade to the pdf for an uninterrupted knitting experience and get full written pattern, charts, links to stitch fiddle charts.

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Schematic

Diagram of the Blood of My Blood knit shawl shape, showing top, side, and height measurements for sizing.
Trapezoidal shawl with three color-coded dimensions, textured stitches visible, inspired by Blood of My Blood Shawl design.

Notes

Directions are for the smallest size; changes for larger sizes are in parentheses. When only one number is given, that number applies to all sizes.

Shawl is worked from center top outward, using yarn-over increases to grow the fabric.

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A bright red knit lace shawl with an airy stitch pattern is draped over a white sweater, shown against a stone wall.

Blood of My Blood Shawl โ€” Pattern Instructions

Body

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1 (RS): K1, YO, k1, YO, k1.
Count: 5 sts (+2 sts increased)

Row 2: Knit.
Row 3 (increase row, RS): K1, YO, k to last st, YO, k1.
Count: 7 sts (+2 sts increased)

Row 4: Knit.
Row 5 (increase row, RS): [K1, YO] twice, pm, [k1, YO] twice, k1, pm, [YO, k1] twice.
Count: 13 sts (+6 sts increased)
Count: 5 sts in center section, 4 sts in each outer section.
Note: The center section of the Body will always have 1 more st than each outer section.

Rows 6-8: Knit.
Row 9 (increase row, RS): K1, YO, k to marker, YO, slm, k1, YO, k to last st before marker, YO, k1, slm, YO, k to last st, YO, k1.
Count: 19 sts (+6 sts increased)
Count: 7 sts in center section, 6 sts in each outer section.

Repeat Rows 6-9 only 45 (48, 51) more times.
Count: 289 (307, 325) sts (+ 270 (288, 306) sts increased)
Count: 97 (103, 109) sts in center section, 96 (102, 108) sts in each outer section.

Remove all increase markers.

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Transition Rows

Rows 1-3 (begin WS): Knit.

Place 1 (2, 3) decrease markers evenly placed across needle.

Row 4 (RS): [K1, YO] twice, * k to marker, slm, k2tog; repeat from * for each marker, k to last 2 sts, [YO, k1] twice.
Count: 292 (309, 326) sts (+ 3 (2, 1) sts increased)

Remove all decrease markers.

Row 5 (WS): Knit.

Red knit shawl with lacy scalloped edges, draped over white textured fabric, showing stitch detail and texture.

Edging

Work 48 (60, 72) rows evenly in Cables and Lace pattern.

Bind off all stitches loosely.

โœจ Designer Tip: Put a lifeline in right before you start the Cables and Lace edging. If you miscross a cable three rows into the 12-row repeat, you'll thank yourself. New to lifelines? Watch my quick tutorial.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends.

Large red knit shawl with lace stitch detail displayed against a stone wall, showing texture and drape.

Blocking Tips

Wet blocking is like sending your yarn on a spa retreat. It is the step where your yarn unwinds, enjoys a soothing cleanse, and settles gracefully into its final form, allowing its true beauty to flourish. Do not skip this step. I'm serious. A lace-edged shawl looks like crumpled fabric before blocking and like heirloom magic after.

Submerge your piece in a basin or sink filled with cool water. Add a touch of wool wash (I love Eucalan… no rinsing required, and the lanolin conditions the yarn).

Let it soak 20 minutes… no agitation, just let it drink.

Remove excess water without stretching or distorting the fibers. Press the piece against the basin. Gently squeeze between your hands (no twisting, no wringing). Always support the entire garment when lifting to prevent any part from stretching out of shape.

Lay the piece on a large towel without stretching it. Fold the towel's ends over your knitting and roll it up like a burrito to wick away more moisture. Aim for damp, not sopping… and definitely not dry.

Place your piece on the blocking board, aligning with the grid if your board has one. Gently expand to the desired wingspan and depth measurements, using the schematic for precision. ๐Ÿšจ Use extra care to avoid overstretching.

Secure with pins, using them sparingly. Smooth the piece with your hands to ensure an even spread, then shape it while damp. Let your masterpiece dry completely (could take a full day… setting up a fan speeds it up). ๐Ÿšจ Do not place the project in direct sunlight as it can discolor the yarn.

Want a deeper dive on blocking? Check out my full tutorial on Steam Blocking vs Wet Blocking… especially useful when you're working with silk blends.

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More Outlander-Inspired Ideas for Fellow Fans ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ

Watching the new Outlander prequel? ๐Ÿ“บ The Blood of My Blood Outlander prequel series follows the love stories of Brian and Ellen Fraser (Jamie's parents) and Henry and Julia Beauchamp (Claire's parents). If you've been binge-watching, this shawl pattern was practically made to be your prequel-watching project. Cast on, settle in, and let the love stories unfold.

Would you love more Outlander-inspired patterns? A Sassenach-worthy cowl? A Claire-style capelet? A Jamie-inspired cabled hat? Tell me in the comments which character or scene you would love me to design next… your vote shapes what I design. ๐Ÿ’›

Want a Pashmina-style Outlander shawl right now? Check out my Kat Pashmina Shawl on Ravelry (also available as a video tutorial pattern on Etsy, and inside the BiCrafty Stitch-Nite collection at Marly Bird House). Lace knit shawl with full video walkthroughs.

Gray lace-patterned knitted Blood of My Blood Shawl shown worn over black blouse, highlighting stitch detail and drape.
Sassenach Capelet
Woman models a striped knit shawl, inspired by Outlander, over a denim jacket in a cozy room with bookshelves and plants.
Lallybroch Shawl
Blue knit hat and fingerless gloves set, featuring textured stitches, modeled with a denim jacket against a brick wall.
MacTavish Hat & Fingerless Mitts
Woman modeling a brown knitted Blood of My Blood shawl with brooch and matching wrist warmers, showing stitch details.
Apothecary Cowl and Wristlets

And if you missed my 2014 podcast interview with Diana Gabaldon herself, it is sadly no longer available. She is every bit as warm and brilliant as her books. I even got a chance to meet her in 2015 at a book signing.

Diana Gabaldon and Marly Bird at a book signing for Outlander

Favorite & Queue on Ravelry

Please favorite and queue the Blood of My Blood Shawl on Ravelry and tag your finished projects #BloodOfMyBloodShawl so I can see them. Seeing your color choices and blocking shots is the best part of my week… and Outlander-red projects? Absolute catnip.

Favorite This Pattern on Ravelry - Marly Bird

More Knit Shawl Patterns You'll Love

Or browse the full Knit Shawl Patterns hub for every free shawl on the blog, sorted by shape, season, and skill level. Want to branch out beyond shawls? Check out my full library of free knit and crochet patterns.

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Frequently Asked Questions

What Outlander quote is this shawl named after?

The name comes from Claire and Jamie's wedding vows in Chapter 14 of Outlander by Diana Gabaldon: “Ye are Blood of my Blood, and Bone of my Bone. I give ye my Body, that we Two might be One. I give ye my Spirit, 'til our Life shall be Done.” The intertwined cables and lace in the edging are my stitch-level tribute to those two lives woven into one.

What shape is this shawl?

It is a half-hexagon shawl, worked center-out with yarn-over increases at two edges and along a center spine. The four shaping points create three angular edges that meet to form a half-hexagon outline… a wide, geometric wingspan that drapes beautifully across both shoulders and feels distinctly different from a triangle, crescent, or boomerang.

The original yarn is discontinued. What should I substitute?

My top pick is KnitPicks Gloss Lace (70% merino / 30% silk) for the closest match to the original. For a luxe upgrade, try Malabrigo Silkpaca (baby alpaca + silk with a dreamy halo) or Dream in Color Smooshy Cashmere for maximum softness. Budget-friendly options: KnitPicks Alpaca Cloud (100% alpaca) or Luminance Lace (100% silk). Want a slightly larger, more substantial shawl? Use Gloss Fingering instead of lace weight.

Can I really do this as a beginner?

Honestly… yes, if you are an adventurous beginner who is willing to try a simple cable. The body is 100% garter stitch (knit every row) with easy yarn-over increases. The only “advanced” section is the 48-72 row cables-and-lace edging, which is a 12-row repeat you will quickly memorize. If you've never cabled before, my 2/2 RC video is two minutes long and you will have it.

How long will this take me?

The garter body is the longest section. Most knitters finish the full shawl in 30-60 hours, depending on size and your knitting speed. If you knit while watching TV (hello, Outlander binge), you can finish the body in one season of the show. The edging is shorter but slower because of the cables.

Do I really need blocking wires?

You don't absolutely need them, but for a large lace-edged shawl like this one, they transform the finishing process. They give you perfectly straight edges and dramatically reduce the number of pins you need. If you're going to invest in one piece of blocking equipment, wires are it.

Do you have other Outlander-inspired patterns?

This is my flagship Outlander design so far, and I loved creating it so much that I want to do more. If you have a specific character or scene you'd love to see in a knit or crochet pattern, drop a comment below or grab the newsletter… your votes shape what I design next. And if you missed my 2014 podcast interview with Diana Gabaldon herself, it is absolutely worth a listen.

Is this shawl related to the Blood of My Blood Outlander prequel TV series?

Great question! I designed this shawl years ago, named after the iconic Outlander wedding vow (“Ye are Blood of my Blood…”), long before the Blood of My Blood Outlander prequel series was announced on Starz. The naming is pure happy coincidence… and now the timing feels meant to be! The shawl is inspired by the vow itself, which carries through the entire Outlander universe (the books, the original series, AND the prequel). So whether you're an Outlander book reader, a Claire and Jamie fan, or you're loving the new prequel about Brian and Ellen Fraser and Henry and Julia Beauchamp… this shawl belongs in your hands. ๐Ÿด

Where can I get the ad-free PDF?

On Etsy, Shopify, or Ravelry. Same pattern, same price on all three… pick your favorite shop. Your purchase supports me as an indie designer and keeps the free patterns coming. ๐Ÿ’›

A woman models the Blood of My Blood shawl, showcasing its textured stitching and drape outdoors among green trees.

Final Thoughts

I've been an Outlander reader for a long time. Diana Gabaldon's books were some of the first that made me cry, laugh, and immediately want to knit something in response. Blood of My Blood is my tribute to that feeling… to a love story told in stitches instead of words, to lives woven together in cables and lace.

Whether you're making this for yourself, for your favorite Outlander friend, or just because you need a dramatic half-hexagon shawl to throw over a white linen dress in your garden (yes please)… cast on. And if you post a finished project, please, please tag me @marlybird or use #BloodOfMyBloodShawl. I want to see every version in every color.

Slรกinte, bestie. Go knit something beautiful. ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ

Love, Your BiCrafty Bestie, Marly Bird

Marly Bird Bitmoji with rainbow hearts

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