Robyn Chachula Archives

Build Your Skills with This Cardigan

The Sookie is a genuinely skill-building project. By the time you finish, you will have practiced:

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc)… a stretchy foundation edge that beats a traditional chain foundation for garment starts
Third-loop crochet… the middle bar that creates the horizontal ridge in half double crochet rows, a beautiful textural element
Stacked double crochet… a stacked double crochet edge stitch that replaces the ch-3 turning chain for a cleaner finish
Crossed double crochet (“x” stitch)… the signature panel stitch that gives Sookie its texture
Pocket openings… adding a pocket in-line to an already-worked fabric
Panel seaming with whip stitch… joining two finished panels invisibly
Sleeve shaping… working decreases at the edges to create a tapered sleeve
Collar pickup… adding a finishing collar by picking up stitches around the neckline
Steam blocking acrylic… the right way to block an acrylic garment (and why you should never skip it for this pattern)

If any of those techniques are new to you, don't worry. Every one of them has a video tutorial below, and the pattern walks you through step-by-step. This is the kind of project where you come out on the other side a genuinely more confident crocheter.

Need a refresher on the abbreviations? My How to Read Crochet Chart Symbols guide covers the basics. Brand new to crochet? BiCrafty Bootcamp: Learn to Crochet is your starting point.

Banner with "BICRAFTY Crochet Bootcamp" text, cartoon bird holding yarn, yellow background with pink and blue accents.

Want Robyn Walking You Through Every Step? Join the Sookie VIP Workshop

If you want a hands-on, step-by-step walk-through with me coaching you through every part of the Sookie Crochet Cardigan, the full Sookie Crochet Cardigan VIP Workshop is available at Marly Bird House. You get:

The complete pattern as a printable PDF
Full video walkthroughs for every section
Answers to common pattern questions
Lifetime access to the workshop inside Marly Bird House

If you are the kind of crafter who learns best by watching, or you're nervous about your first garment and want a designer in your ear while you work… this workshop was made for you. 👉 Get the Sookie Crochet Cardigan VIP Workshop at Marly Bird House

A multicolored crochet cardigan with a matching hood and belt, shown flat with a beaded necklace, features textured stitch detail.

What Is the Marly Bird Turkey Trot (and Other Marly Bird House Events)?

The Sookie Crochet Cardigan was originally released during my Turkey Trot 2024 Mystery Make-Along, which is one of four seasonal make-along events I run throughout the year at Marly Bird House. These events are the BEST way to experience my community in action… everyone working on the same project, getting real-time support, and celebrating finished projects together.

My four annual Marly Bird House make-along events:

🏈 Game Day Mystery Make-Along (winter)… a cozy pattern released in pieces during football season
🌸 First Fall (late summer/early fall)… a transitional-weather piece to carry you into layering season
🦃 Turkey Trot Mystery Make-Along (November)… the big Thanksgiving-season release, where Sookie was born
🏆 Tournament of Stitches (TOS) (every 2-3 years in the spring)… four mystery shawls released over 4 weeks, the longest-running Marly event

Each event is a LIVE experience… I'm teaching, answering questions, and celebrating with everyone as the pattern unfolds. After the event wraps, the full pattern becomes available as a workshop PDF with videos inside Marly Bird House, so you can work through it anytime, at your own pace. The Sookie VIP Workshop linked above is the “graduated” version of the 2024 Turkey Trot event (same content, available anytime).

Want to join the next one live? The newsletter always has the first invite.

Join our Newsletter

Get Free Crochet & Knitting
Pattern Links & Coupons!

Yarn & Materials

The Sookie is designed for Red Heart Roll With It Mélange, a 100% acrylic worsted weight yarn with 389 yards per 150-gram ball. The sample uses the colorway Curtain Call, a warm heathered red that photographs beautifully. Size-dependent yardage: 3 balls (XS-M), 4 balls (L-3X), 5 balls (4X-5X).

Alternate yarn: Lion Brand Ferris Wheel (100% acrylic, worsted weight, 270 yds/85g). Size-dependent: 4-8 balls. Also a lovely heathered acrylic in a wide color range.

What to look for in a yarn substitute: a worsted weight (CYCA #4) yarn, any fiber, with good stitch definition. Acrylic or acrylic blend is ideal for this pattern because the garment is machine washable and the stitch pattern needs light structure to show off. Avoid slippery super-soft yarns (like pure silk or 100% mercerized cotton) as they may lose stitch definition.

Yarn Alternatives for the Sookie Crochet Cardigan

Can't find Red Heart Roll With It Mélange? No problem. Sookie was designed in a worsted weight (CYCA #4) acrylic, so you have LOTS of options. Below are my favorite affiliate-linked alternatives, sorted by the vibe you want for your finished cardigan. As always… swatch and block before you commit to the full project. 💛

Self-Striping / Cake Yarn Alternatives (closest to the original Roll With It look)

These give you the same gradient stripey magic as Roll With It Mélange. The colors do the work… you just keep crocheting and watch the cardigan shift through a palette on its own.

Yarn	Fiber	Yardage / Ball	Why it works
Red Heart Roll With It Mélange (original)	100% acrylic	389 yds / 150 g	The sample yarn. Long color shifts, machine washable, budget-friendly. Color shown: Curtain Call.
Lion Brand Ferris Wheel (original alt)	100% acrylic	270 yds / 85 g	The pattern's printed alternate yarn. Heathered self-striping look. Need 4-8 balls depending on size. Color shown: Morning Java.
Caron Cinnamon Swirl Cakes	100% acrylic	~360 yds / 170 g	Self-striping cake. Soft, washable, beautiful color shifts. Easy to find at Michaels.

Solid-Color Worsted Acrylic Alternatives

If you want one solid color (or you want to stripe your own custom palette by hand), these are clean worsted acrylics with great stitch definition. All machine washable, all budget-friendly.

Yarn	Fiber	Yardage / Ball	Why it works
KnitPicks Brava Worsted	100% premium acrylic	218 yds / 100 g	Beginner-friendly, budget-friendly, gorgeous color range. Soft and machine washable. My go-to solid worsted acrylic.
Loops & Threads Impeccable	100% acrylic	277 yds / 113 g	Affordable Michaels store-brand acrylic. Great structure for garments that need to hold their shape. Wide color range.
Lion Brand Heartland	100% acrylic	251 yds / 142 g	Soft, heathered solid colors named after U.S. National Parks. Beautiful drape, machine washable. A reader favorite for cardigans.

Wool and Wool-Blend Options (for natural fiber lovers)

If you'd rather stitch in wool, these are my favorite worsted-weight wool and wool-blend picks. Wool gives you more warmth, more stitch memory, and a slightly different drape than acrylic. Important blocking note: wool and wool blends usually respond better to WET blocking than steam blocking… check your yarn label. (The pattern as written is steam-blocked because the sample is acrylic.)

Yarn	Fiber	Yardage / Ball	Why it works
WeCrochet Mighty Stitch Worsted	80% acrylic / 20% superwash wool	208 yds / 100 g	The best of both worlds: machine washable like an acrylic, with the warmth and bloom of wool. Great middle-ground yarn for first-time wool crocheters.
Berroco Vintage Worsted	52% acrylic / 40% wool / 8% nylon	218 yds / 100 g	Wool/acrylic blend with nylon for added durability. Machine washable. Slightly more rustic look than pure acrylic. Drapes beautifully.
Lion Brand Wool-Ease	80% acrylic / 20% wool	197 yds / 85 g	The classic workhorse wool-blend acrylic. Reliable structure, easy to find at Michaels, great for everyday wear.
KnitPicks Wool of the Andes Worsted	100% Peruvian Highland wool	110 yds / 50 g	For natural-fiber purists. 100% wool, gorgeous stitch definition, traditional handfeel. Need 2 balls per “Roll With It” ball. Hand-wash recommended.
Cascade 220 Superwash	100% superwash wool	220 yds / 100 g	Premium superwash wool, machine washable. Excellent stitch memory and structure. A splurge yarn for a cardigan you'll keep for years.

Hook: Size J/10 (6.0 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge. I love KnitPicks hooks for projects like this because the ergonomic handle makes 40+ hours of crochet much easier on your hands.

Notions: these are items that are needed to make your crochet cardigan amazing and the experience even better!

Stitch Markers
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Tape Measure
Notions Bag for Supplies (Optional)
Leather tags (Optional)
Leather rivets (Optional)
Blocking Squares
Blocking Pins
Soaking Basin
Eucalan Wool Wash
Steamer

Variegated orange, red, brown, and gold yarn with a person modeling a textured crochet cardigan made from it. Close-up of the Sookie Crochet Cardigan panel stitch pattern showing the crossed double crochet texture in Red Heart Roll With It Mélange Curtain Call

Video Tutorials

Every technique you need is covered in my video library:

Foundation Single Crochet >> Click Here for Video Help <<
Seaming Crochet >> Click Here for Video Help <<
How to Read Crochet Diagrams >> Click Here for Video Help <<
Weave in Ends >> Click Here for Video Help <<
Stacked Double Crochet >> Click Here for Video Help <<
Videos for each section are available in the Marly Bird House VIP Silver Platter Workshop

📌 Get the Sookie Crochet Cardigan PDF
(Access inside the Marly Bird House with unlimited viewing and bonus material)

Love the Pattern but Want an Ad-Free PDF?

The full pattern below is 100% free here on the blog… thank you for supporting the site by reading through the ads! If you'd rather have a clean, printable, ad-free PDF, or you want the full VIP workshop experience with video walkthroughs, here are your options:

🛒 Shop on Etsy
🛒 Shop on Marly Bird Shopify Store
🛒 Shop on Ravelry
🌟 Sookie VIP Workshop (Marly Bird House)… the full workshop experience with video walkthroughs + pattern PDF

Marly Bird wearing the Sookie Crochet Cardigan in Red Heart Roll With It Mélange Curtain Call, a free oversized crochet cardigan pattern in sizes XS-5X

Sookie Crochet Cardigan — Pattern Details

Designers

Skill Level

Adventurous Beginner

Measurements

To Fit Size: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) with 9-10″ [23-25.5 cm] of positive ease. Sample shown has 9″ of positive ease in size 3X.

Finished Measurements:
Bust circumference: 41 (44, 47, 51, 56, 59, 63, 66, 69)” [104, 112, 119.5, 129.5, 142, 150, 160, 167.5, 175 cm]
Length (shoulder to edge): 21 (21, 21, 22.75, 22.75, 22.75, 24.5, 24.5, 24.5)” [53.5, 53.5, 53.5, 58, 58, 58, 62, 62, 62 cm]

Gauge

BLOCKED: 18 dc (6 stitch repeats) by 16 rows in Panel Stitch Pattern = 5″ [12.5 cm] by 7″ [18 cm]. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

Materials

Crochet Yarn: Red Heart Roll With It Mélange (100% Acrylic, 389 yds / 356 m, 5.29 oz / 150 g, CYCA #4 worsted)
Curtain Call: 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) balls

Alternate Yarn: Lion Brand Ferris Wheel (100% Acrylic, 270 yds / 247 m, 3 oz / 85 g, CYCA #4 worsted)
Morning Java: 4 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) balls

Crochet Hook: Size J/10 [6.0 mm] or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, basic blocking supplies, steamer or steam iron.

Abbreviations

Ch – Chain(s)
Dc – Double Crochet
Dc2tog – Double Crochet Two Together
Fhdc – Foundation Half Double Crochet (see special stitches)
Fsc – Foundation Single Crochet (see special stitches)
Hdc – Half Double Crochet
Hdc2tog – Half Double Crochet Two Together
PM – Place Marker
RS – Right Side
Sc – Single Crochet
Sc2tog – Single Crochet Two Together
Sl st – Slip Stitch
Sp(s) – Space(s)
St(s) – Stitch(es)
Stacked Dc – Stacked Double Crochet (see special stitches)
Tch – Turning Chain
WS – Wrong Side

Special Stitches

⭐️ Double Crochet 2 Together (Dc2tog): *Yarn over hook, insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook; repeat from * in next st indicated, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. (1 decrease)

⭐️ Foundation Half Double Crochet (fhdc):
First fhdc: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), yarn over hook, insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook (forming a chain, place marker in chain just made), yarn over and draw through 3 loops on hook (forming the half double crochet).
Next fhdc: Yarn over hook, insert hook into base of previous stitch (in the “chain” space), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook (forming a chain), yarn over and draw through 3 loops on hook (forming the next half double crochet). Repeat directions for desired amount of sts.

⭐️ Foundation Single Crochet (fsc):
First fsc: Ch 2, insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook (forming a chain), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (forming the single crochet).
Next fsc: Insert hook into base of previous stitch (in the “chain” space), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook (forming a chain), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (forming the next single crochet). Repeat directions for desired amount of sts.

⭐️ Half Double Crochet 2 Together (Hdc2tog): Yarn over hook, insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into next st indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through all 4 loops on hook. (1 decrease)

⭐️ Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog): *Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop; repeat from * in next stitch indicated, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. (1 decrease)

⭐️ Third Loop: Also known as middle or back bar. Horizontal strand located under the top 2 loops. When working in turned rows the third loop is on the front side of the fabric facing you.

⭐️ Stacked Double Crochet (Stacked Dc): (Do not ch 1 prior to making the first sc) Sc in first stitch, insert hook in between two legs of the base, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook.

Crochet Stitch Diagrams

✨ Following along with the free pattern on MarlyBird.com? You’ll have everything you need to make this cardigan… but if you want the exclusive stitch diagram charts, those are only available in the ad-free PDF version.

You’ll enjoy a clean, printable, ad-free experience while supporting Marly Bird’s free tutorials and patterns 💖

Schematic

Sookie Crochet Cardigan seaming schematic showing panel join lines with the do-not-seam armhole marked for the plus size crochet cardigan pattern

Notes

Directions are for size XS; changes for sizes S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL are in parentheses. When only one number is given, that number applies to all sizes.
Sweater is oversized. If you prefer a tighter fit, pick a size closer to your bust circumference. The sample shown is the 3X size with 9″ of positive ease.
Gauge listed is BLOCKED. The stitch pattern unblocked is much shorter compared to when it is blocked. Make sure you are choosing your hook size based on a blocked swatch.
Make a gauge swatch by making 20 fhdc then following the panel directions for Rows 2-16 without a hole for the pockets.
Sweater is worked in panels and seamed. The collar is crocheted onto the project at the end.
If you do not want to start your panel with foundation hdc, you can chain and hdc instead. Make sure you have the same number of hdc as Row 1 calls for fhdc.
We recommend steam blocking with both yarns listed. We do NOT recommend “pin and spray” blocking or wet blocking for the yarn used. If you substitute another yarn, spray or wet blocking might work. Blocking is required and not optional for this project.

Gauge Swatch

To make a gauge swatch, start with 20 fhdc. Continue with Rows 2-9 of the Panel Instructions below twice. Fasten off. Pin to a blocking board (or other surface), opening up the lace portion of the swatch. Measure 18 sts across and compare to gauge listed of 5″ [10 cm]. Measure 16 rows and compare to gauge listed of 7″ [18 cm]. If your swatch is measuring larger than the listed gauge, make another swatch with a smaller hook. If your swatch is measuring smaller than the listed gauge, make another swatch with a larger hook.

✨ Designer Tip: Do NOT skip the gauge swatch on this pattern. I know, I know… “do I have to?” Yes. Here's why: the Panel Stitch Pattern is quite short unblocked and stretches significantly when steam blocked. A hook size that looks right pre-blocking will give you the wrong finished dimensions post-blocking. Make the swatch, block it, then decide your hook. 30 extra minutes now saves you from a cardigan that's 4 inches too small (or 4 inches too big) later.

GROW

To Unlock Exclusive Subscriber Content click the Box below and join for free by simply adding your email and creating a password! If you are having troubles, clear your cache or reset your password or login to the Grow Publisher Portal.

>> Learn More About Grow Here <<

I'm thrilled to share this amazing pattern with you, many patterns on my blog are absolutely free! I kindly request that you don't copy and paste or distribute this pattern. Prefer an ad-free experience? Buy a digital PDF pattern for a small fee from one of my online stores for a seamless crafting journey.

I appreciate your support and readership. You are the reason I can keep doing what I love and sharing it with others. So, thank you from the bottom of my yarn-loving heart! Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links at no cost to you.

Sookie Crochet Cardigan — Pattern Instructions

Panels (Make 2)

Row 1 (RS): 32 (35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56) fhdc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across, turn.
Row 3: Stacked dc in first sc, *skip 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc in 3rd sc back from previous dc (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last sc, dc in last sc, turn.
Row 4: Stacked dc in first dc, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp across, dc in last dc, turn.
Row 5: Stacked dc in first dc, *skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc made in 3rd dc back from previous dc made (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last dc, dc in last dc, turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first dc, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across, sc in last dc, turn.
Row 7: Ch 1, hdc in each sc across, turn.
Row 8: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across, turn.
Row 9: Ch 1, hdc in each sc across, turn.
Rows 10-15: Repeat Rows 2-7.

Pocket Opening

Note: The pocket is optional. If you do not want pockets, Repeat Rows 8-9 instead.

Row 16: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of the next 7 (8, 10, 11, 13, 14, 16, 17, 19) hdc, sl st in the third loop of the next 18 hdc, sc in the third loop of each remaining hdc across, turn.
Row 17: Ch 1, hdc in each sc to sl sts, 18 fhdc, skip all sl sts, hdc in each remaining sc across, turn.

Remainder of Panel

Repeat Rows 2-9 of the Panel 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 11) times.
Repeat Rows 2-8 once more, do not fasten off.

Edging Round: Ch 1, sc in each sc across last row to last sc, 3 sc in last sc, place marker in middle sc, turn to work on edge, sc evenly along long edge to foundation, 3 sc in first st of the foundation, place marker in middle sc, turn to work on foundation, sc in each remaining st across to last, 3 sc in last st, place marker in middle sc, turn to work on edge, sc evenly along long edge to beginning, 2 sc in same st as first sc of round, place marker in 2nd sc, sl st to first st, fasten off, weave in ends.

Block Panels

Pin panels to schematic size. Using either the lowest heat setting on your steam iron or a steamer, steam panels to block and allow to dry.

✨ Designer Tip: Block your panels BEFORE you start the sleeves. I know it feels like you want to power through the whole project, but blocking first lets you confirm your dimensions are correct before you commit 15+ more hours to sleeves. If your gauge drifted and the panels are coming out a size bigger or smaller than planned, this is when you catch it… and you can adjust the sleeve starting row count to match.

Sleeves (Make 2) — XS, S, M Size

Row 1 (RS): 65 fhdc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across, turn.
Row 3: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first sc, dc in next 3 sc, *skip 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc in 3rd sc back from previous dc (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 4 sc, dc in next 2 sc, dc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 19 ch-2 sps + 3 sts each end.
Row 4: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, dc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp across to last 3 sts, dc in next st, dc2tog over last 2 sts, turn — 61 dc.
Row 5: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first dc, dc in next dc, *skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc made in 3rd dc back from previous dc made (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 2 dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, turn — 19 ch-2 sps + 1 st each end.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog over first dc and ch-2 sp, 2 sc in same ch-2 sp, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across to last ch-2 sp, 2 sc in last ch-2 sp, sc2tog over last ch-2 sp and dc, turn — 57 sc.
Row 7: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 55 hdc.
Row 8: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across, turn.
Row 9: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 53 hdc.

Repeat Rows 2-9 once, Repeat Rows 2-8 once more — 31 sc. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Sleeves (Make 2) — L, XL, 2X Size

Row 1 (RS): 74 fhdc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across, turn.
Row 3: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first sc, dc in next 3 sc, *skip 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc in 3rd sc back from previous dc (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 4 sc, dc in next 2 sc, dc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 22 ch-2 sps + 3 sts each end.
Row 4: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, dc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp across to last 3 sts, dc in next st, dc2tog over last 2 sts, turn — 70 dc.
Row 5: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, dc in next dc, *skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc made in 3rd dc back from previous dc made (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 2 dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, turn — 22 ch-2 sps + 1 st each end.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog over first dc and ch-2 sp, 2 sc in same ch-2 sp, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across to last ch-2 sp, 2 sc in last ch-2 sp, sc2tog over last ch-2 sp and dc, turn — 66 sc.
Row 7: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 64 hdc.
Row 8: Ch 1, sc2tog in the third loop over the first 2 hdc, sc in the third loop of each hdc across to last 2 hdc, sc2tog in the third loop over the last 2 hdc, turn — 62 sc.
Row 9: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 60 hdc.
Row 10: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across, turn.
Row 11: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first sc, dc in next 2 sc, *skip 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc in 3rd sc back from previous dc (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 3 sc, dc in next sc, dc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 18 ch-2 sps + 2 sts each end.
Row 12: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, dc in next st, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp across to last 2 sts, dc2tog over last 2 sts, turn — 56 dc.
Row 13: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first dc, dc in next 3 dc, *skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc made in 3rd dc back from previous dc made (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 4 dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, turn — 16 ch-2 sps + 3 sts each end.
Row 14: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 dc, sc in next sc, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across to last 3 dc, sc in next dc, sc2tog over last 2 dc, turn — 52 sc.
Row 15: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 50 hdc.
Row 16: Ch 1, sc2tog in the third loop over the first 2 hdc, sc in the third loop of each hdc across to last 2 hdc, sc2tog in the third loop over the last 2 hdc, turn — 48 sc.
Row 17: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 46 hdc.
Row 18: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across, turn.
Row 19: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first sc, dc in next sc, *skip 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc in 3rd sc back from previous dc (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 2 sc, dc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 14 ch-2 sps + 1 st each end.
Row 20: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp across to last ch-2 sp, 2 dc in last ch-2 sp, dc2tog over last ch-2 sp and dc, turn — 42 dc.
Row 21: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first dc, dc in next 2 dc, *skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc made in 3rd dc back from previous dc made (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 3 dc, dc in next dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, turn — 12 ch-2 sps + 2 sts each end.
Row 22: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 dc, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across to last 2 dc, sc2tog over last 2 dc, turn — 38 sc.
Row 23: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 36 hdc.
Row 24: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Sleeves (Make 2) — 3X, 4X, 5X Size

Row 1 (RS): 83 fhdc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog in the third loop over the first 2 hdc, sc in the third loop of each hdc across to last 2 hdc, sc2tog in the third loop over the last 2 hdc, turn — 81 sc.
Row 3: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first sc, dc in next 2 sc, *skip 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc in 3rd sc back from previous dc (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 3 sc, dc in next sc, dc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 25 ch-2 sps + 2 sts each end.
Row 4: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, dc in next st, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp across to last 2 sts, dc2tog over last 2 sts, turn — 77 dc.
Row 5: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, dc in next 3 dc, *skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc made in 3rd dc back from previous dc made (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 4 dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, turn — 23 ch-2 sps + 3 sts each end.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 dc, sc in next dc, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across to last 3 dc, sc in next dc, sc2tog over last 2 dc, turn — 73 sc.
Row 7: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 71 hdc.
Row 8: Ch 1, sc2tog in the third loop over the first 2 hdc, sc in the third loop of each hdc across to last 2 hdc, sc2tog in the third loop over the last 2 hdc, turn — 69 sc.
Row 9: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 67 hdc.
Row 10: Ch 1, sc2tog in the third loop over the first 2 hdc, sc in the third loop of each hdc across to last 2 hdc, sc2tog in the third loop over the last 2 hdc, turn — 65 sc.
Row 11: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first sc, dc in next 3 sc, *skip 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc in 3rd sc back from previous dc (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 4 sc, dc in next 2 sc, dc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 19 ch-2 sps + 3 sts each end.
Row 12: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, dc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp across to last 3 dc, dc in next dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, turn — 61 dc.
Row 13: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first dc, dc in next dc, *skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc made in 3rd dc back from previous dc made (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 2 dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, turn — 19 ch-2 sps + 1 st each end.
Row 14: Ch 1, sc2tog over first dc and ch-2 sp, 2 sc in same ch-2 sp, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across to last ch-2 sp, 2 sc in last ch-2 sp, sc2tog over last ch-2 sp and dc, turn — 57 sc.
Row 15: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 55 hdc.
Row 16: Ch 1, sc2tog in the third loop over the first 2 hdc, sc in the third loop of each hdc across to last 2 hdc, sc2tog in the third loop over the last 2 hdc, turn — 53 sc.
Row 17: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 51 hdc.
Row 18: Ch 1, sc2tog in the third loop over the first 2 hdc, sc in the third loop of each hdc across to last 2 hdc, sc2tog in the third loop over the last 2 hdc, turn — 49 sc.
Row 19: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first sc, dc in next sc, *skip 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc in 3rd sc back from previous dc (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 2 sc, dc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 15 ch-2 sps + 1 st each end.
Row 20: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first st, 3 dc in each ch-2 sp across to last ch-2 sp, 2 dc in last ch-2 sp, dc2tog over last ch-2 sp and dc, turn — 45 dc.
Row 21: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first dc, dc in next 2 dc, *skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in front of previous dc made in 3rd dc back from previous dc made (same st as 2nd previous dc, creates a “x”); repeat from * across to last 3 dc, dc in next dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, turn — 13 ch-2 sps + 2 sts each end.
Row 22: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 dc, 3 sc in each ch-2 sp across to last 2 dc, sc2tog over last 2 dc, turn — 41 sc.
Row 23: Ch 1, hdc2tog over first 2 sc, hdc in each sc across to last 2 sc, hdc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 39 hdc.
Row 24: Ch 1, sc in the third loop of each hdc across. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Block Sleeves

Pin sleeves to schematic size. Using either the lowest heat setting on your steam iron or a steamer, steam sleeves to block and allow to dry.

Back Seam

Join yarn to the Left Panel on the long edge in the marked corner (marked with a star on the panel schematic) with a sl st.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next sc, *ch 1, skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc; repeat from * 20 (20, 20, 21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 23) times total, turn — 42 (42, 42, 44, 44, 44, 48, 48, 48) dc + 20 (20, 20, 21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 23) ch-1 sps.

Note: If you have customized the length of your project, you will need to adjust the amount of sts you have on Row 1. You will want the finished Row 1 to be 2″ [5 cm] less than half the total length (2″ less than the length of the shoulder to the bottom edge). This means you will either need to crochet more or less of Row 1 across the panel.

Row 2: Ch 1, *sc between next 2 dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * across to last 2 dc, sc between last 2 dc, sc in last dc, turn.
Row 3: Stacked dc in first sc, dc in next sc, *ch 1, skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc; repeat from * across, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, *sc between next 2 dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * across to last 2 dc, sc between last 2 dc, sc in last dc. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Join yarn to the Right Panel on the long edge 62 (62, 62, 65, 65, 65, 71, 71, 71) sts across from the corner (including the marked corner st) with a sl st.

Note: If you have customized the length of your project, you will need to adjust the amount of sts you have on Row 1. You will want the finished Row 1 to be 2″ [5 cm] less than half the total length. This means you will need to adjust where you join your yarn. Count the number of stitches on the opposite side and join there for this side.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next sc, *ch 1, skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc; repeat from * across to corner, turn — 42 (42, 42, 44, 44, 44, 48, 48, 48) dc + 20 (20, 20, 21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 23) ch-1 sps.
Row 2: Ch 1, *sc between next 2 dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * across to last 2 dc, sc between last 2 dc, sc in last dc, turn.
Row 3: Stacked dc in first sc, dc in next sc, *ch 1, skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc; repeat from * across, turn.

XS, S, M, L Size — Fasten off with long tail for seaming.
XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X — Repeat Rows 2-3 once, fasten off with long tail for seaming.

Holding right sides together of each panel, whip stitch back seam.

Side Seam

Join yarn to the Left Panel on the long edge in the marked corner with a sl st.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next sc, *ch 1, skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc; repeat from * 13 (13, 13, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14) times total, fasten off — 28 (28, 28, 30, 30, 30, 30, 30, 30) dc + 13 (13, 13, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14) ch-1 sps.

Holding right sides together of each panel, whip stitch side seam. Repeat on other side.

Note: If you have customized the length of your project, you will need to adjust the amount of sts you have on Row 1. The side seam is the distance from the bottom edge to the start of the sleeve. The easiest way to do this is to fold your panel and sleeve panel in half. Line the fold line of the sleeve and panel up at the shoulder. With a stitch marker, mark off the underside of the sleeve on the panel. Then crochet Row 1 to as close to that marker as you can.

Colorful sookie crochet cardigan with textured stitches, worn over a white shirt; curly hair visible from behind.

Collar

Join yarn to the Right Panel on the long edge in the marked corner with a sl st.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next sc, *ch 1, skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc*; repeat from * across panel to back seam (see Note 1 below), [ch 1, 2 dc in edge of sc row] 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) times, ch 1, dc in next 2 sc on next panel, repeat from * to * across panel to next corner (see Note 2 below), turn.

Note 1: We on purpose did not force you to count the number of stitches you have on the panel edging, so you might not end perfectly at your back seam.

If you end with 2 additional stitches before the back seam: ch 1, skip 1, 2 dc in last st before the back seam. Crochet across the back seam as written. In hopes you crocheted the same number of sts on the second panel edging, repeat directions in reverse. 2 dc in first st after back seam, ch 1, skip 1 st, then continue with pattern.

If you end with 1 additional stitch before the back seam: dc in that extra st. Crochet across the back seam as written. In hopes you crocheted the same number of sts on the second panel edging, dc in first 3 sts after back seam, then continue with pattern.

Note 2: If you did not end perfectly at the corner, you can rip out back to the back seam and follow directions above or try the options below.

If you ended 1 st short: rip out the previous 3 sts. Ch 1, do not skip 1, dc in next 2 sc, ch 1, do not skip 1, dc in next sc, dc in corner sc.

If you ended 2 sts short: ch 1, skip 1 st, 2 dc in corner sc.

Repeat Rows 2-3 once (or desired amount), Repeat Row 2 once more.
Row 7: Sl st in each sc across, fasten off, weave in ends.

Sleeve Seaming

Pin sleeve to armhole opening with right sides facing. Whip stitch sleeve to armhole opening. Whip stitch under arm seam.

Cuff

Join yarn to the underarm Sleeve with sl st.

Round 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next sc, ch 1, *skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc, ch 1; repeat from * around (see Note below), sl st to top of tch, turn.

Note: If you did not end perfectly back at the beginning, here are a few things you can try:

If you ended without a st between your beginning ch-3 and the last dc: ch 1 and join with a sl st. Essentially do not worry about having a st to skip or not when you get back around.

If you ended with 2 sts between the last dc and beginning ch: rip out the last ch 1 and dc. Dc2tog over the next 2 sts, ch 1, skip the last st and join to the beginning ch with a sl st.

Round 2: Ch 1, *sc between next 2 dc, 2 sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, sl st to first sc, turn.
Round 3: Stacked dc in first sc, dc in next sc, ch 1, *skip next sc, dc in next 2 sc, ch 1; repeat from * around, sl st to first dc, turn.

Repeat Rounds 2-3 for desired length, Repeat Round 2 once more.
Last Round: Sl st in each sc around, fasten off, weave in ends.

Pocket Square (Make 2)

Chain 24.

Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook (skipped chains count as a dc), dc in each ch across, turn — 24 dc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each dc across including the top of the t-ch, turn.
Row 3: Stacked dc in first sc, dc in each sc across, turn.

Repeat Rows 2-3 six more times (or to desired length). Fasten off leaving a long tail for seaming.

Center pocket square on inside of cardigan at pocket opening. Whip stitch top of pocket square to bottom of foundation stitches in the opening. Stitch remaining sides of the square to the inside fabric of the cardigan.

Finishing

Weave in all remaining loose ends. Give the whole cardigan one final light steam block if needed to even out any areas where stitches settled during seaming.

Woman modeling the free Sookie Crochet Cardigan pattern by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula — colorful striped size inclusive crochet cardigan XS-5X with video tutorials

Blocking Tips

Blocking is NOT optional for the Sookie. I mean it. The Panel Stitch Pattern looks shorter unblocked than it does post-block, and the whole cardigan's finished dimensions are measured with a blocked swatch. Steam blocking is the method for both Red Heart Roll With It Mélange and Lion Brand Ferris Wheel… do NOT wet block or “pin and spray” block either of these acrylics, it can damage the fabric.

Pin each piece to its schematic dimensions on a blocking board (or a clean towel on any flat surface). Use the lowest heat setting on your steam iron or a steamer, held 2-3 inches above the fabric, and steam the full surface gently. Do NOT press the iron directly on the fabric… acrylic melts at high heat, and even medium heat can create shiny spots.

Let each piece dry completely (usually 4-8 hours) before unpinning. For best results, block your panels BEFORE starting the sleeves, and re-block the full cardigan lightly after seaming to smooth out any settling.

If you substitute a different yarn (wool, cotton, etc.), check the yarn label for blocking instructions. Many non-acrylic fibers respond to wet blocking and may benefit from it. For this pattern written as designed with acrylic, steam is the way.

Make This Sookie Cardigan in Any Color You Love 🎨

One of the things I love most about the Sookie is how dramatically it changes personality based on the color you choose. The sample is stitched in Red Heart Roll With It Mélange in Curtain Call (a warm heathered red), but our test-knitters and community crocheters have made this cardigan in every color you can imagine… and EVERY single one is gorgeous.

Solid, variegated, neutral, bold, dark academia, beachy pastel, holiday-festive… it all works. The Panel Stitch Pattern has so much built-in texture that solid colors pop just as beautifully as multicolor cakes do. Below are a few of my favorite color iterations to get your imagination going.

Free Sookie Crochet Cardigan in blue worsted acrylic, oversized crochet cardigan pattern with panel stitch texture — Sookie in cool blue

Free Sookie Crochet Cardigan in teal green, plus size crochet cardigan pattern XS-5X by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula — Sookie in cool blue

💬 Your turn: Which color is calling your name?

Drop a comment below and tell me which colorway you'd pick for YOUR Sookie… cool blue, teal green, soft pink, tan and cream, classic gray and black, or that gorgeous purple/teal mix? Or are you going somewhere totally different… a rich burgundy, a buttery mustard, a sage neutral, a bright coral? I love seeing what colors my community gravitates toward, and I'm always inspired by what you all come up with.

And if you make the Sookie in your dream color, please tag @marlybird on social media or use #SookieCrochetCardigan so I can share your finished project. ✨

Favorite & Queue on Ravelry

Please favorite and queue the Sookie Crochet Cardigan on Ravelry and tag your finished projects #SookieCrochetCardigan so I can see them. Every color, every body, every finished photo… absolutely made my week.

Favorite This Pattern on Ravelry - Marly Bird

More Crochet Patterns You'll Love

Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan… another reader favorite
Trifle Crochet Pullover... Turkey Trot project with Marly Bird House workshop too!
Stonington Crochet Gradient Shawl… got mini hanks? Here is your project!
Bellini Crochet Cropped Pullover… everybody loves this pattern
Tatiana Crochet Sweater… another size-inclusive crochet garment
Solomon's Knot Crochet Summer Tee… must make crochet pullover for summer
Turkey Trot 2024 Event Recap… see the full event this pattern was born in

Or browse my full library of free knit and crochet patterns for every free pattern on the blog.

Meet the Designers

About Marly Bird
Marly Bird is a professional yarn artist, designer, and teacher who has been designing in the knit and crochet industry since 2007. She's the creator of the BiCrafty method… the only approach that teaches both knitting AND crochet together… and the host of one of the longest-running fiber arts podcasts and YouTube channels in the business. Marly's free patterns, video tutorials, and beginner-friendly teaching style have helped hundreds of thousands of crafters fall in love with the hook and needles. Find her work, free patterns, and online courses at marlybird.com and at Marly Bird House.

About Robyn Chachula
Robyn Chachula is a structural engineer turned full-time crochet designer, author, and teacher. She's published multiple bestselling crochet books (including Crochet Stitches VISUAL Encyclopedia, Unexpected Afghans, and Blueprint Crochet), has been designing for major yarn companies and magazines since 2006, and is celebrated in the crochet community for her clear charts, smart construction, and gorgeous modern takes on traditional techniques. Robyn and Marly have been designing together for years… the Sookie Crochet Cardigan is one of their most-loved collaborations. You can find more of Robyn's work at crochetbyfaye.com.

Free Sookie Crochet Cardigan FAQ — common questions about this size inclusive crochet cardigan pattern by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Sookie Crochet Cardigan really beginner friendly?

Honestly, yes… for an adventurous beginner. If you're comfortable with chain, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, and a few decreases (dc2tog, hdc2tog, sc2tog), you can absolutely do this. The panel construction makes it easier than a one-piece cardigan because you get to finish smaller pieces at a time. The pattern walks you through every special technique (foundation hdc, third loop, stacked dc, crossed dc) and all of them have video tutorials.

Can I make this cardigan in a different yarn?

Absolutely. Use any worsted weight (CYCA #4) yarn that gets the right gauge on a J/10 hook. Acrylic is ideal for this pattern because it's machine washable and the stitch pattern needs a little structure. If you use wool or another natural fiber, check blocking instructions… many natural fibers respond better to wet blocking than steam blocking. Always swatch and block your swatch before committing to the full project.

How long does this cardigan take to crochet?

Most crocheters finish in 40-60 hours, depending on size and speed. A realistic timeline for most crafters is 4-6 weeks of regular crochet time. The Turkey Trot 2024 mystery version was paced over 11 days as a make-along… so if you have an existing crochet rhythm, you can absolutely finish it in that same timeframe.

Are the pockets required?

Nope, completely optional. The pattern notes specifically tell you what to do if you want to skip them (repeat Rows 8-9 instead of the pocket opening rows). Many crocheters add them because pockets are ALWAYS a welcome feature on a cardigan, but if you prefer a cleaner silhouette, skipping them is fine.

What's the difference between the Sookie and other Marly Bird crochet cardigans?

Great question. The Sookie is a panel-construction oversized cardigan with a textured stitch pattern, pockets, and a collar, designed for 9-10 inches of positive ease. My Easy One-Piece Kimono Cardigan is a simpler, unshaped one-piece design for a more beginner-friendly experience. My Goldenrod Cardigan is a different textural stitch with a different fit. Different cardigans for different moods.

Can I customize the length?

Yes! The pattern includes specific notes on how to adjust the back seam, side seams, and overall body length if you want your cardigan shorter or longer. Sweater Row 1 in the Back Seam section notes exactly how to recalculate… you'll want the finished Row 1 to be 2 inches less than half the total desired length. Side seams adjust with a stitch marker method also explained in the pattern. Customization is genuinely supported here.

Where can I get the ad-free PDF or the full VIP workshop?

The full Sookie VIP Workshop at Marly Bird House includes the printable PDF + video walkthroughs for every section. If you're the kind of crafter who learns best by watching, or you want me coaching you through every step of your first garment, the workshop is the premium experience. Standalone ad-free PDF options on Etsy and Ravelry are coming soon.

What is the Marly Bird Turkey Trot? How can I join the next one?

Turkey Trot is my annual November mystery make-along event inside Marly Bird House, where a full pattern is released in pieces over about 11 days. I host it live, participants work the pattern together, and we celebrate finished projects as a community. It's one of four annual events (alongside Game Day in winter, First Fall in late summer, and Tournament of Stitches in spring). Join the newsletter to get first access when the next event opens for registration.

Marly Bird wearing the Sookie Crochet Cardigan in Red Heart Roll With It Mélange Curtain Call, a free crochet cardigan pattern in sizes XS-5X

💬 Final Thoughts

The Sookie Crochet Cardigan has been one of my community's most-loved designs since the moment we released it. I've seen hundreds of finished projects in every color imaginable, on every body, in homes all over the world. It's the kind of pattern that earns its place in your wardrobe… you'll wear it every fall, reach for it on chilly summer evenings, and pull it out when someone asks “can you recommend a crochet cardigan I could actually finish?”

Thank you for being here, for letting me design for you, and for being the reason I get to keep sharing free patterns. If you make the Sookie, please share your finished project with me. Tag @marlybird on social media or use #SookieCrochetCardigan. Seeing your versions is my favorite thing in the whole wide world.

Love, Your BiCrafty Bestie, Marly Bird
(and co-designer Robyn Chachula 💛)

Farmer’s Market Filet Crochet Bag — A Free Modern Filet Crochet Pattern

May 20, 2026 By Marly Bird 2 Comments

”

The Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag is a free crochet pattern designed by Robyn Chachula for Marly Bird. It's a sturdy 14″ x 16″ filet crochet market bag worked in joined rounds, then turned rounds, using a DK-weight cotton/hemp blend yarn. Filet crochet uses only chains and double crochets in an open grid, which makes it surprisingly approachable for intermediate crocheters… and the finished bag is gorgeous, breathable, and strong enough to carry a Saturday morning haul of tomatoes and a sourdough loaf.

If you've been curious about filet crochet but never quite found a project worth diving in for, this is the one. The technique is having a quiet renaissance right now… and a market bag is the perfect canvas for it. Free pattern on the blog. Ad-free PDF on Etsy, Shopify, and Ravelry for crafters who like to print and stitch without scrolling.

Marly Bird holding the Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag, a free crochet pattern by Robyn Chachula in green Hempathy yarn.

Hey, bestie 💛 Robyn Chachula designed this beauty for the Marly Bird community, and I cannot wait for you to make it. There's something about a handmade market bag that just feels like a love letter to summer — to slow Saturday mornings, to local farmers, to the way a good cotton bag will hold half its weight in produce and STILL look like art slung over your shoulder. Robyn's filet grid does the heavy visual lifting, the construction is more forgiving than it looks, and once you click into the rhythm of “chain two, skip two, double crochet”… you're cruising.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you make a purchase through one of these links, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to your yarn-loving heart. Thank you for supporting Marly Bird!

Marly Bird carrying the Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag at a summer farmers market - free filet crochet pattern.

🌽 Originally Released as Day 13 of Spring Fling 2026

The Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag debuted as the Day 13 brand-new release in our 20-day Spring Fling 2026 free pattern event, designed in collaboration with Robyn Chachula. The free pattern lives here on the blog forever — and you can grab the ad-free PDF anytime on Etsy, Shopify, or Ravelry.

👉 Browse all 20 Spring Fling patterns on the Hub — or scroll down for the ad-free PDF.

What You Will Love About This Filet Crochet Bag 💖

🌽 It's a modern take on a classic technique. Filet crochet has been around for over a century, but most filet patterns floating around the internet are dated or wedding-doily styled. This one is fresh, modern, and built for everyday use… a market bag you'll actually grab on the way out the door.

🧶 The stitches are simpler than the result looks. If you can chain and double crochet, you can filet. The whole “grid” effect comes from alternating between chain-2 spaces (open squares) and groups of double crochets (filled squares). That's it. The chart does the design thinking for you — you just read it and stitch.

🌿 The yarn breathes and holds shape. Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy is a cotton/hemp/modal blend with just enough body to keep the bag's silhouette structured, even when you're hauling a watermelon home. The hemp content also softens beautifully with washing — like a good pair of linen pants.

👜 The integrated handles are a chef's kiss. No sewing on straps later. The handles are crocheted directly into the top edge with a clever chain-and-skip technique that gives you sturdy carry loops without breaking your rhythm at the end.

✨ It's a gateway project for one of crochet's quietly hottest techniques. Filet crochet is having a moment — Pinterest searches are climbing, indie designers are dropping filet patterns, and the vintage-modern look is everywhere. Learn it now on this bag, then run wild with curtains, runners, wall hangings, or your own custom designs.

Free filet crochet market bag pattern by Robyn Chachula for Marly Bird, shown in teal, blue, and purple color options.

Quick Pattern Overview

📐 Finished size: 14″ [35.5 cm] wide by 16″ [40.5 cm] tall, not including handles.

🧶 Yarn: Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy — DK-weight cotton/hemp/modal blend, 3 balls. Or any DK cotton-blend yarn that holds structure (alternatives below).

🪝 Hook: Size G/6 (4.0 mm) — or whatever size gets you gauge.

📏 Gauge: 7 ch-2 spaces and 8 rows = 4″ [10 cm] x 4″ [10 cm].

🎯 Skill level: Intermediate. You'll work joined rounds, turned rounds, and read a filet chart — if you've made a granny square and aren't scared of charts, you've got this.

🧵 Designed by: Robyn Chachula for Marly Bird.

Ad-free PDF mockup of the Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag pattern in turquoise - free crochet pattern by Robyn Chachula.

Love the Pattern but Want an Ad-Free PDF? ⭐

The full pattern is FREE here on the blog… and if you love the rhythm of scrolling through a blog post while you stitch, you're all set. But if you'd rather print the pattern, mark it up with sticky notes, and stitch without ads or scrolling, grab the ad-free PDF on Etsy, Shopify, or Ravelry. It's the same pattern in a clean, printable format.

🛒 Shop on Ravelry
🛒 Shop on Etsy
🛒 Shop at Marly Bird Shopify Store

Join 25,000+ crafters getting Marly's weekly free patterns, designer tips, and BiCrafty inspiration.

Join our Newsletter

Get Free Crochet & Knitting
Pattern Links & Coupons!

Is This Filet Crochet Bag Right for You?

This pattern is built for the intermediate crocheter who's ready to learn one new technique on familiar stitches. You'll need to be comfortable with chains, double crochets, half double crochets, slip stitches, working in the round (joined AND turned), and reading a simple chart. Everything else — including the filet rhythm and the special stitches like the stacked double crochet — is taught inside the pattern with full notes.

If you're newer to crochet, this isn't the place to start… but it's a beautiful goal project to work toward. Make a few quick crochet gifts first to build your stitch confidence, then come back for the filet adventure.

If you've ever made a crochet bag before and want to level up into a more graphic, lacier look… you're going to LOVE this. The construction is the same flat-bottomed, worked-in-the-round approach you already know — just with a filet chart layered on top.

Marly Bird with the Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag in green Hempathy, showing the modern filet crochet stitch pattern.

What Is Filet Crochet (And Why Is Everyone Doing It Again)?

Filet crochet is a technique that uses ONLY chains and double crochets, arranged in an open grid. Each square in the grid is either “open” (a chain-2 space with a double crochet on each side) or “filled” (two double crochets between the side stitches, no chains). When you stack rows of open and filled squares according to a chart, you create a pixelated image inside the fabric… flowers, geometric motifs, monograms, anything you can graph.

The technique dates back to the late 1800s, when it was used to imitate the look of expensive filet lace. For decades it was associated with doilies, table runners, and Victorian-era curtains. Then it went quiet for a while. And NOW… it's having a renaissance, and a really exciting one. Modern designers are using filet for market bags, plant hangers, wall art, garment yokes, and curtain panels — taking the same century-old technique and putting it on bodies and in homes that look nothing like the 1890s.

The reason filet is back? It hits the same sweet spot the granny square hit in 2021… it's repetitive (meditative), beginner-accessible, looks complicated, and reads incredibly well in photos. If you've been hunting for a technique that's both easy on your hands AND visually impressive, filet is your answer.

💡 Designer Tip: The hardest part of filet crochet isn't the stitches… it's reading the chart. The pattern includes a tip to place a stitch marker every 5 ch-2 spaces while you work, and I cannot recommend that enough. Even after years of designing filet patterns, I still mark every 5 squares. It turns a chart into a built-in self-check system — if you miscount, you'll catch it within 5 stitches instead of at the end of the round.

Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag in red Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy DK weight cotton hemp yarn - free crochet pattern.

Yarn & Materials

The yarn matters a LOT for a market bag. You want something that has body (so the bag holds shape when empty), strength (so it doesn't sag into a pancake when loaded), AND breathability (because you might be carrying warm bread, fresh-picked tomatoes, or a wet bunch of greens). The Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy used in the original sample is a perfect storm of all three.

Original yarn: Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy — 41% cotton / 34% hemp / 25% modal rayon, DK weight (CYCA #3), 153 yds / 50 g per ball. Color: #028 Blue Pine Green. You'll need 3 balls.

Yarn Alternatives

If you can't find Hempathy locally (it's an indie-friendly yarn… sometimes harder to source), here are ten fun yarn alternatives… all with my WeCrochet and LoveCrafts affiliate links so you can shop fast.

I picked these because they each give the bag a different personality. Some are tight matches to Hempathy. Some are wildcards that take the pattern somewhere new (Robyn would probably approve — she's a master at “the same pattern, ten ways”). The best matches are DK-weight cotton/linen blends, but I've included worsted cotton options too if you want a chunkier, sturdier bag (use a smaller hook to keep gauge). As always, match gauge before committing to your full project.

Best DK-Weight Matches (closest to Hempathy)

Yarn	Fiber	Weight	Why it works
WeCrochet CotLin	70% cotton / 30% linen	DK	The closest match to Hempathy on this list. Linen content adds the same body and crispness the hemp gives in the original.
WeCrochet Memento	Cotton blend	DK	Beautiful stitch definition and a soft hand. Holds filet grid structure well.
Berroco Remix Light	Cotton/silk/linen/nylon/acrylic blend	DK	Recycled fiber blend with great body and a beautiful matte finish. Earth-friendly summer pick.

Sport-Weight Alternatives (slightly lighter, lacier look)

Yarn	Fiber	Weight	Why it works
WeCrochet Shine Sport	60% cotton / 40% modal	Sport	Modal blend gives a soft sheen. Filet grid will look a touch more delicate and drapey… great if you want a lighter summer bag.
WeCrochet Salvage	95% cotton (62-75% recycled) / 5% other fiber	Sport	The closest spirit-match to Hempathy on this list. Recycled cotton with a rustic, organic feel that softens beautifully with washing… just like a good pair of linen pants. Eco-friendly, breathable, and gives the bag a slightly toothier, hand-spun look that's gorgeous for the farmer's market vibe. 155 yds / 50 g per ball.

Worsted-Weight Options (sturdier, chunkier bag — use a smaller hook)

These are heavier than the original yarn. If you use them, drop one hook size (try F/3.75 mm) and double-check your gauge. You'll get a denser, sturdier bag that can carry even heavier loads, with a slightly bolder filet grid.

Yarn	Fiber	Weight	Why it works
WeCrochet DillyDally	Cotton blend	Worsted	Soft, washable, beginner-friendly. Solid match if you want the warmth and body of worsted.
Willow Yarns Freesia Cotton	100% cotton	Worsted	Pure cotton with great stitch definition. The classic market-bag fiber if you want a heavier, longer-lasting bag.
Herrschners Cottage Cotton	60% cotton / 40% acrylic	Worsted	Cotton-acrylic blend that's lighter on the hands and easier to wash than 100% cotton. Budget-friendly.
Bernat Softee Cotton	60% cotton / 40% nylon	DK / Light Worsted	Nylon adds strength and structure — a smart pick for a bag that needs to carry weight without sagging.

If You Want to Go in a Completely Different Direction

Yarn	Fiber	Weight	Why it works
WeCrochet Animation	Superwash merino / nylon	Fingering / Sock	Hold this one DOUBLE STRANDED and it becomes a lovely DK-equivalent for the bag. Soft, snuggly, with the most gorgeous self-striping colorways. A really fun choice if you want a one-of-a-kind look.
Lighthouse Wildflowers	Acrylic / wool blend	DK / Light	Vibrant variegated colorways and a soft hand. Gives the bag a different personality than the original cotton/hemp — think “farmer's market in autumn” instead of “farmer's market in July.”

Yarn links above are LoveCrafts affiliate links — if you buy through them, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for stitching with me. 💛

Marly Bird modeling the Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag, showing filet crochet stitch detail and integrated handles.

💡 Designer Note — Make This Bag in Any Color You Love: One of my favorite things about this pattern is how dramatically it changes personality based on the color you choose. The sample is stitched in Hempathy's Blue Pine Green for that classic farmer's market vibe, but I've seen testers make it in cream, blush pink, terracotta, mustard, deep teal, sage, navy, and a buttery yellow… and EVERY single one is gorgeous. The filet grid is so graphic that any color reads beautifully. Match it to your favorite summer dress, your kitchen towels, your wedding palette, or your team colors. Make one for every season. Make a rainbow of them and rotate. The pattern doesn't care… it just keeps looking good. (See the nine-color photo above for inspiration — those are all real Farmer's Market Bags in the wild.)

Hook & Notions

You'll need a size G/6 (4.0 mm) crochet hook to start. If your gauge doesn't match the pattern after a few rounds, go up or down a hook size… gauge matters more than hook label, especially with filet where uniform spacing is what makes the grid look clean. You'll also need stitch markers (3-4) and a tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Love This Yarn? More Patterns Using Cotton Blends

DK cotton-blend yarns are the workhorse of summer crochet. If you fall in love with how Hempathy (or any of the alternatives) behaves on this bag, here are more free Marly Bird crochet patterns that use the same yarn family — perfect for stash-busting any leftover balls or building a coordinated set.

Woman wears a blue Cotton Crochet Tee, showing off its stitch texture, in a warm craft room lined with yarn and supplies.

Two crochet crossbody bags with colorful granny squares and woven straps sit in a round basket, accented by greenery and beads.

Video Tutorials

How to Read Crochet Stitch Diagrams
How to do a Stacked Double Crochet
How to Bury in Your Ends (don't just crochet over the ends!)

Free Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag pattern by Robyn Chachula for Marly Bird in green Hempathy DK cotton hemp blend.

Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag — Pattern Details

Designed by

Robyn Chachula for Marly Bird

Skill Level

Intermediate

Finished Measurements

Bag is 14″ [35.5 cm] wide by 16″ [40.5 cm] tall, not including handles.

Gauge

7 ch-2 sps and 8 rows = 4″ [10 cm] x 4″ [10 cm]; use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

Materials

Yarn: Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy (41% Cotton / 34% Hemp / 25% Modal Rayon, 153 yds (140 m) / 1.75 oz (50 g), CYCA #3 DK): #028 Blue Pine Green, 3 balls

Hook: Size G/6 (4.0 mm)

Notions: Stitch Markers

Tapestry Needle

Scissors

Tape Measure

Notions Bag for Supplies (Optional)

Leather tags (Optional)

Leather rivets (Optional)

Abbreviations

BLO — Back Loop Only
Ch — Chain(s)
Dc — Double Crochet
Hdc — Half Double Crochet
PM — Place Marker
RS — Right Side
Sc — Single Crochet
Sl st — Slip Stitch
Sp(s) — Space(s)
St(s) — Stitch(es)
WS — Wrong Side

Special Stitches

Close-up of hands demonstrating a stacked double crochet stitch, highlighting textured rows of Tunisian crochet.

⭐️ Sc in Third Loop: Insert hook in middle horizontal strand on WS of stitch (it is located under the top two loops in the back of the stitch), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through all 2 loops on hook.

Crochet Stitch Diagram

Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag base round chart with chains, slip stitches, and half double crochets - 35 sts.

Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag body chart showing filet stitch symbols, numbered rounds, and beginning/ending markers.

Notes

Base is worked in joined rounds.
Body is worked in turned rounds.
Body is worked in filet crochet.
When following the chart, begin in bottom right corner of chart and read from right to left for every RS round, and left to right for each WS round.
Each row of the chart is repeated twice per round, once for front and once for back.
Optional: Place marker every 5 ch-sp to help keep track where you are on the filet chart.

GROW

>> Learn More About Grow Here <<

Marly Bird with the green Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag - free crochet bag pattern with sturdy integrated handles.

Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag — Pattern Instructions

Base

Chain 37

Round 1: Place marker in chain behind hook (37th ch), 2 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in next 33 ch, 6 hdc in next ch, rotate chain to work in loop on opposite side, hdc in next 33 ch, 3 hdc in next ch, join to marked chain with sl st. Do Not Turn — 78 hdc.

Round 2: Ch 2, move marker to chain behind hook, hdc in same stitch as join, [2 hdc in next hdc] twice, hdc in next 33 hdc, [2 hdc in next hdc] six times, hdc in next 33 hdc, [2 hdc in next hdc] three times, join to marked chain with sl st. Do Not Turn — 90 hdc.

Round 3: Ch 2, move marker to chain behind hook, hdc in same stitch as join, [hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc] twice, hdc in next 35 hdc, [2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next hdc] twice, [2 hdc in next hdc] twice, [hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc] twice, hdc in next 35 hdc, [2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next hdc] twice, 2 hdc in next hdc, join to marked chain with sl st. Do Not Turn — 102 hdc.

Round 4: Ch 2, move marker to chain behind hook, hdc in same stitch as join, [hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc] twice, hdc in next 37 hdc, [2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 2 hdc] twice, [2 hdc in next hdc] twice, [hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc] twice, hdc in next 37 hdc, [2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 2 hdc] twice, 2 hdc in next hdc, join to marked chain with sl st. Do Not Turn — 114 hdc.

Round 5: Ch 2, move marker to chain behind hook, hdc in same stitch as join, [hdc in next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc] twice, hdc in next 39 hdc, [2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 3 hdc] twice, [2 hdc in next hdc] twice, [hdc in next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc] twice, hdc in next 39 hdc, [2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 3 hdc] twice, 2 hdc in next hdc, join to marked chain with sl st. Do Not Turn — 126 hdc.

Round 6: Ch 2, move marker to chain behind hook, hdc in same stitch as join, [hdc in next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc] twice, hdc in next 41 hdc, [2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 4 hdc] twice, [2 hdc in next hdc] twice, [hdc in next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc] twice, hdc in next 41 hdc, [2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 4 hdc] twice, 2 hdc in next hdc, join to marked chain with sl st. Do Not Turn — 138 hdc.

Round 7: Ch 2, move marker to chain behind hook, hdc in same stitch as join, [hdc in next 5 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc] twice, hdc in next 43 hdc, [2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 5 hdc] twice, [2 hdc in next hdc] twice, [hdc in next 5 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc] twice, hdc in next 43 hdc, [2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 5 hdc] twice, 2 hdc in next hdc, join to marked chain with sl st. Do Not Turn — 150 hdc.

Round 8: Ch 1, sc in same stitch as join, sc in 3rd loop of each hdc around, join to first sc with sl st. Do Not Turn — 150 sc.

Rounds 9-12: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join to first sc with sl st. Do Not Turn — 150 sc.

Body

Round 1: (RS) Stacked dc in first sc, *ch 2, skip 2 sc, dc in next sc; repeat from * around to last 2 sc, ch 2, skip last 2 sc, sl st to first dc, turn — 50 ch-2 sps.

Rounds 2-25: Continue in filet crochet following filet chart in turned rounds.

Filet Crochet Notes:

Start each round with a stacked dc.
When chart shows a white square, place a dc on either side and a ch-2 sp in between, skip the ch-2 sp or 2 sts of the previous round. See filet crochet stitch diagram example for assistance.
When chart shows a gray square, place a dc on either side and either 2 dc in the ch-2 sp or dc in next 2 dc. See filet crochet stitch diagram example for assistance.
Join with sl st to first dc at end of each round and turn.
Chart is used twice in each round; once for the front and once for the back of the bag.

Free Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag by Marly Bird in green, filled with bright pink yarn, showing openwork filet stitches.

Top

Round 1: Ch 1, sc in first dc, *2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next dc; repeat from * around to last ch-2 sp, 2 sc in last ch-2 sp, sl st to first sc. Do Not Turn — 150 sc

Rounds 2-4: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc. Do Not Turn.

Round 5: Ch 1, sc in next 30 sc, ch 70 (will become handle), skip 15 sc, sc in next 60 sc, ch 70, skip 15 sc, sc in last 30 sc, sl st to first sc. Do Not Turn — 120 sc + 2 ch-sps

Round 6: Ch 1, *sc in each sc across to handle ch, sc in each ch across; repeat from * around, sc in each sc to end, sl st to first sc. Do Not Turn — 260 sc

Rounds 7-9: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc. Do Not Turn. Fasten off.

Finishing

Weave in ends.

Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag styled with flowers - free modern filet crochet tote pattern by Robyn Chachula.

Blocking Tips

Blocking a filet crochet bag is the moment the whole project transforms. Pre-blocking, your filet grid will look slightly wonky and the bag shape will be a little floppy. Post-blocking, the grid opens up into a crisp, even pattern and the bag holds its shape like a champion. Don't skip this step — it's what separates “okay” filet from “stunning” filet.

How to block this bag: Submerge the finished bag in lukewarm water with a small amount of wool wash (a no-rinse formula like Eucalan works great for cotton/hemp blends). Let it soak for 15-20 minutes. Lift gently, press out excess water against the side of the basin (do not wring), then roll in a clean dry towel and press to remove more moisture.

To shape, stuff the damp bag with crumpled plastic bags or a folded towel until it holds its 14″ x 16″ finished dimensions. Lay it flat or stand it upright on a blocking mat. Pin the handles into a smooth, even loop shape. Let it dry completely (24-48 hours depending on humidity) before unstuffing. The cotton/hemp blend will set into shape beautifully and hold it through years of farmer's market trips.

💡 Designer Tip: If your finished bag pulls in at the top (some crocheters work the sc rounds tighter than the filet body), block it by stuffing the top opening with a slightly larger object — a small mixing bowl or a stack of folded kitchen towels. This gently widens the opening as it dries and gives you that perfect “ready to be filled” silhouette.

Favorite & Queue on Ravelry

Want to save this pattern for later? Heart it and queue it on Ravelry so you can find it any time. Ravelry favorites also help other crocheters discover the pattern — every favorite is a vote that says “this is worth making.”

Love Filet Crochet? Try This Next

If filet crochet clicked for you on this bag, you're going to want to keep going… and I've got the perfect next project. The Beginner Filet Crochet Shawl uses the same technique you just learned, but in a flat, drapey shawl shape instead of a structured bag. Same stitches. Same chart-reading skills. Brand-new project type. It's the second post in our growing filet crochet collection on Marly Bird.

More Free Crochet Bag Patterns You'll Love

If you fell hard for this bag, you're in good company — crochet bags have been one of the fastest-growing categories on Marly Bird this year. Here are more free crochet bag and accessory patterns from the site to keep you stitching all summer long.

Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag pattern FAQs - free crochet bag pattern by Robyn Chachula for Marly Bird in green.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is filet crochet?

Filet crochet is a technique that uses only chains and double crochets, arranged in an open grid of squares. Each square is either “open” (a chain-2 space with a double crochet on each side) or “filled” (two double crochets between the side stitches, no chains). Stack rows of open and filled squares according to a chart, and you create a pixelated image inside the fabric. It's a century-old technique having a modern renaissance, used today for market bags, wall hangings, plant hangers, and garment yokes.

How is filet crochet different from regular mesh crochet?

Both techniques create an open, airy fabric… but they read very differently. Regular mesh crochet uses one repeating stitch (like chain-spaces between single or double crochets) to create a uniform net. Filet crochet uses a STRUCTURED GRID of open AND filled squares to create patterns, motifs, and visual depth inside the open work. A regular mesh bag looks like a net. A filet bag looks like designed lace. Both are beautiful, but filet gives you a more sophisticated, graphic look with the same effort once you learn to read the chart.

Is filet crochet good for beginners?

Filet crochet uses only two stitches: chain and double crochet. That makes the stitches themselves beginner-friendly. The intermediate skill rating on this bag comes from reading a chart, working in joined and turned rounds, and managing the gauge across a larger project. If you can chain, double crochet, and follow a written pattern, you can absolutely learn filet — but start with a smaller filet swatch or coaster before committing to a full bag.

How do you read a filet crochet chart?

Read filet charts square-by-square, starting at the bottom right corner. For Right Side (RS) rounds, read right-to-left. For Wrong Side (WS) rounds, read left-to-right. Each white square in the chart = an open mesh (chain-2 space with a double crochet on either side). Each gray (or filled) square = a solid mesh (two double crochets in the chain-2 space below, with a double crochet on either side). Use stitch markers every 5 squares to catch counting errors early.

What yarn is best for a crochet market bag?

The best yarn for a crochet market bag is a sturdy plant-fiber yarn with body — cotton, linen, hemp, or blends of those fibers. You want enough stiffness that the bag holds its shape when empty, plus enough strength to carry heavy produce, breads, and groceries. The Farmer's Market Filet Bag uses Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy (cotton/hemp/modal DK), but any DK or worsted cotton-blend will work. Avoid wool, acrylic, and superwash yarns for market bags — they stretch and sag under load.

How long does it take to crochet a market bag?

An intermediate crocheter can finish the Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag in a weekend of focused stitching… figure 10-15 hours of actual hook time, spread across two or three sessions. The base goes fast (about 2-3 hours). The filet body is the longest section but it's meditative and rhythmic once you click into reading the chart. The top and handles wrap up quickly. If you've never done filet before, add a few hours for the learning curve. Either way, this is a satisfying start-and-finish project, not a months-long commitment.

Can you use a filet crochet bag for groceries?

Yes — a filet crochet bag is actually IDEAL for groceries, farmers market hauls, and produce shopping. The open mesh lets fruits and vegetables breathe (no condensation, no spoiled tomatoes by the time you get home), the cotton/hemp blend is strong enough to carry real weight, and the bag flattens for easy storage between trips. Filet crochet bags are a reusable, washable, plastic-bag-free way to do your shopping. Plus you'll get compliments at the checkout. Every time.

Can I make this filet crochet bag bigger or smaller?

Yes. To make a smaller version, use a thinner yarn (sport or fingering weight) with a smaller hook — your gauge will tighten and the finished bag will scale down proportionally. To make a larger version, use a worsted or aran weight yarn with a larger hook. The Body of the bag is worked in multiples of 3 stitches per filet square (one dc + ch-2 + skipped sts), so you can also add or remove chart repeats. Just adjust your starting chain in the base to keep the math even.

How much yarn do I need for the Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag?

You'll need approximately 459 yards (3 balls of Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy at 153 yds each) in DK weight. If you're substituting a different yarn, aim for at least 450-500 yards of DK weight cotton-blend yarn to be safe. Buy one extra ball if you're using a hand-dyed yarn or anything with potential dye-lot variation — you don't want to run out on the final handle round.

Why does the bag say “use any size hook to obtain the gauge”?

For filet crochet, the uniformity of the grid matters more than the specific hook label. Two crocheters can use the same yarn and the same labeled hook size and get completely different gauges based on their personal tension. The pattern recommends starting with a G/6 (4.0 mm) hook, but if your swatch doesn't match 7 ch-2 spaces and 8 rows over 4 inches, change hook size until it does. Gauge controls the finished size and the look of the filet grid.

Is the Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag washable?

Yes — and that's one of the advantages of a cotton/hemp/modal blend. Hand-wash the bag in cool water with a gentle soap, press out excess water against the side of the sink (don't wring), and reshape while damp. Air dry flat or stuffed to maintain the 14″ x 16″ finished dimensions. The bag will actually get softer and prettier with each wash as the hemp content blooms and softens.

Can I sell items made from this free crochet pattern?

Yes — you're welcome to sell handmade items made from this pattern in your own small business or at craft fairs. Please credit the designer (Robyn Chachula for Marly Bird) in your product listings. You may NOT sell, share, or redistribute the pattern itself, the PDF, or the chart in any form. The pattern stays with the original creators; the items you stitch from it belong to you.

Free Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag pattern shown in nine yarn color options - customize this filet crochet tote.

Final Thoughts

This bag is the kind of project I LOVE having on the site — beautiful enough to gift, useful enough to actually use, and approachable enough that the technique becomes something you carry with you into other projects. Huge thanks to Robyn Chachula for designing it for us. After your Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag is finished, you'll look at filet patterns differently. Curtains, table runners, wall hangings, garment yokes… they all just got added to your “I could totally do that” list.

And on a Saturday morning, when you swing this bag over your shoulder and head to the market for tomatoes and a sourdough loaf, you'll get to say “thanks, I made it” approximately a dozen times. That never gets old. ✨

If you make this bag, tag #FarmersMarketFilet and @marlybird on Instagram. I love seeing how you make the pattern your own… color choices, market styling, in-the-wild photos with actual produce. The community thread on this one is going to be GORGEOUS.

Meet the Designers

About Robyn Chachula
Robyn Chachula is a structural engineer turned full-time crochet designer, author, and teacher. She's published multiple bestselling crochet books (including Crochet Stitches VISUAL Encyclopedia, Unexpected Afghans, and Blueprint Crochet), has been designing for major yarn companies and magazines since 2006, and is celebrated in the crochet community for her clear charts, smart construction, and gorgeous modern takes on traditional techniques like filet and Tunisian crochet. Robyn and Marly have been designing together for years and the Farmer's Market Filet Crochet Bag is their newest collaboration. You can find more of Robyn's work at crochetbyfaye.com.

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

“

Free Solomon’s Knot Crochet Cotton Tee Pattern in 4 Sizes (S/M – 4X/5X)

May 7, 2026 By Marly Bird Leave a Comment

”

📝 Update — May 2026: This pattern post has been fully refreshed with complete written instructions, special-stitch tutorials, schematic, blocking guidance, and updated yarn substitution links. Co-designer credit added for the brilliant Robyn Chachula, who collaborated with Marly on the design. Same beloved Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee… now with everything you need to make it from start to finish in one place.

The Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee is a free crochet tee pattern designed by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula, available in 4 sizes from S/M through 4X/5X. Worked in two panels from the hem up using a herringbone double crochet body and an airy Solomon's Knot stitch sleeve, this oversized cotton tee is a breezy summer layering piece… drapey, breathable, and made in widely available Bernat Softee Cotton (a 60% cotton / 40% acrylic light worsted blend). Skill level: intermediate.

If you have been waiting for a free crochet tee pattern that actually wears like real summer clothes… not a stiff fabric square with sleeves, not something so heavy you can't put it on past May… meet the Solomon's Knot Tee.

Hey, bestie 💛

This tee is one of the patterns I get asked about most when summer rolls around. I co-designed it with the brilliant Robyn Chachula, and we built it for the very specific moment when you want a crocheted top that you'll actually wear in 80-degree weather. Cotton blend yarn for breathability. An open Solomon's Knot stitch in the sleeves so air moves through the fabric. Oversized fit with 4-8 inches of ease so nothing clings. Reversible stitch pattern so it looks great no matter how you grab it off the back of a chair at 7 a.m.

Here is what makes this tee special: it is crocheted in two simple panels that get whip-stitched together at the shoulders and sides, with sleeves added directly off the body without complicated armhole shaping. That construction means most of the project is meditative herringbone double crochet on a long row, broken up by a stunning Solomon's Knot lace section in the sleeves that looks way more advanced than it actually is.

If you have been curious about Solomon's Knot stitch (sometimes called the lover's knot)… this is the perfect pattern to learn it. You only need a few rows of it, and I am walking you through every step.

Marly Bird wearing the Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee in Bernat Softee Cotton Dusk Sky, a free crochet tee pattern in sizes S/M to 4X/5X

🌸 Spring Fling 2026: The Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee debuted as Day 4 of Spring Fling 2026, my 20-day knit and crochet pattern celebration. Browse all 20 patterns on the Spring Fling Hub →

What You Will Love About This Pattern 💖

👕 A real summer crochet top. Cotton blend yarn, open Solomon's Knot lace in the sleeves, drapey not stiff. This isn't a “blanket masquerading as a top” pattern. You'll actually reach for it in July.

📏 Sizes S/M through 4X/5X. Four size groupings with 4-8 inches of positive ease. Designed to be oversized… if you're between sizes, you can size down for a closer fit.

🧶 Two-panel construction. Crochet two flat panels (front + back), seam at the shoulders and sides, add sleeves directly off the body. No fiddly armhole shaping. No top-down math.

🌬️ Solomon's Knot sleeves. The open lace stitch in the sleeves looks intricate and is honestly just long loops + single crochet in a rhythmic pattern. You learn it in 10 minutes and it makes the whole tee look fancy.

Free Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee pattern by Marly Bird — sizes S/M to 4X/5X in Bernat Softee Cotton, featuring open Solomon's Knot stitch sleeves and oversized cotton fit

🔁 Reversible stitch pattern. Both sides of the herringbone double crochet body look great. Pull it on inside-out and no one will know.

💰 Affordable, accessible yarn. Bernat Softee Cotton is at Joann, Michaels, Walmart, and online for around $5 per ball. A full tee in the largest size needs 6 balls. Total project cost: under $35.

👯 Co-designed with Robyn Chachula. Robyn is one of the smartest construction designers in crochet, and her fingerprints are all over the smart panel sequencing here. Two industry veterans, one brilliantly simple summer top.

Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee styled with denim showing the open Solomon's Knot stitch sleeves and oversized drape

Quick Pattern Overview

🎯 Skill Level: Intermediate

📏 Finished Bust: 42.5 (50, 57, 66)” / 108 (127, 145, 167.5) cm. Sized S/M, L/XL, 2X/3X, 4X/5X. Designed with 4-8″ of positive ease for an oversized fit.

🧶 Yarn: Bernat Softee Cotton (60% Cotton / 40% Acrylic, 254 yds/232 m, 4.2 oz/120 g, CYCA 3 light) in Dusk Sky. 3 (4, 5, 6) balls.

🪡 Hook: Size G/7 (4.5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.

📐 Gauge (blocked): 13 herringbone double crochet sts and 8 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10 cm x 10 cm. Use any size hook to obtain gauge.

⏱️ Estimated time: 25-40 hours depending on size and crochet speed. Most crocheters finish in 2-3 weeks of regular project time.

Marly Bird wearing the Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee in Dusk Sky Bernat Softee Cotton — free crochet tee pattern in sizes S/M to 4X/5X

Is This Crochet Tee Right for You?

This pattern is a perfect match if you want a wearable summer crochet top and you're ready to learn one or two new stitches. You will be right at home if you can:

Chain, single crochet, half double crochet, and double crochet
Read a written pattern with multi-size instructions in parentheses
Whip stitch two pieces of crochet fabric together (linked video tutorial below)
Wet block a finished piece (spray, pin, dry… that's it)

The two new stitches you'll learn (or get more comfortable with) are foundation single crochet (fsc), herringbone double crochet, and Solomon's Knot. All three have linked video tutorials in this post… and once you learn them, you have them in your toolkit for life.

If chain, single crochet, and double crochet still feel uncertain, start with my BiCrafty Bootcamp: Learn to Crochet first. Build the foundation, then come back here for your summer wardrobe.

✨ Designer Tip: The Solomon's Knot stitch sounds intimidating, but here's the secret… it's just a really long chain stitch with a single crochet “anchor” worked into its back loop. The whole “trick” is pulling that loop up to about ¾ inch (about 2 cm) every single time. Get a ruler out for the first 5-10 knots so your eye learns the length, and after that you'll do it on autopilot. Consistent loop length = consistent fabric.

Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee in Bernat Softee Cotton Dusk Sky shown flat, featuring herringbone double crochet body and Solomon's Knot lace sleeves — free crochet tee pattern by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula

Explore More Free Crochet Top & Tee Patterns

If summer crochet tops are your thing, you are in good company. Browse the full collection or pick your next project:

Cutest Cotton Crochet T-Shirt Pattern… another reader-favorite cotton crochet tee in a different stitch
Stoney Creek Sleeveless Tee… a beginner-level sleeveless tee if you want something simpler
60 Must-Have Crochet Tank Top Patterns for Summer… the master roundup of summer crochet tops
50 Free Crochet Summer Top Patterns… another curated summer collection
Full Library of Free Knit & Crochet Patterns… every free pattern on the blog

What Is a Solomon's Knot Stitch?

The Solomon's Knot stitch (also called the lover's knot) is a classic crochet stitch that looks like an open, lacy mesh of long, knotted loops. It's worked from a foundation of regular crochet stitches and creates a fabric with lots of drape, lots of airflow, and a very distinctive textile look… think antique tablecloth or vintage shawl, modernized.

Mechanically it's two motions repeating: pull up a long loop (about ¾ inch / 2 cm), and then anchor that loop with a single crochet worked into the back loop you just created. Two stitches. That's the whole technique. The visual complexity comes from working those two stitches in a rhythmic grid… and from the magic of how the long loops drape after blocking.

You'll see Solomon's Knot in shawls, blankets, summer tops, and lace projects. It's especially loved for hot weather garments because the open structure breathes… very different from a dense single crochet fabric that can wear like cardboard in July.

For more Solomon's Knot patterns, see the Solomon's Knot Blanket and the Solomon's Knot Crochet Cuff (with video tutorial).

Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee styled over a black tank top — free oversized crochet tee pattern in Bernat Softee Cotton Dusk Sky

Build Your Skills With This Pattern

The Solomon's Knot Tee is a quietly skill-building pattern. You'll come out the other side with three new techniques you can use for the rest of your crochet life:

🪢 Foundation single crochet (fsc). A starting row that creates the foundation chain and the first row of single crochet in one pass. No more counting and recounting a long, twisty chain. Once you learn this, you'll use it on every project that starts flat. >> Watch the Foundation Single Crochet Video <<

🐟 Herringbone double crochet. A subtle variation on regular double crochet where you draw the loop through the first loop on the hook before completing the stitch. The result is a slanted, tightly-woven texture that has more visual interest than a standard dc fabric. The whole body of the tee is herringbone dc. >> Watch the Herringbone Double Crochet Video <<

💎 Solomon's Knot. The signature stitch in the sleeves. Looks complicated, is honestly two motions repeated rhythmically. Once you know it, you can use it for shawls, blankets, scarves, summer wraps… it's a forever stitch.

✨ Designer Tip: Practice each special stitch on a small swatch BEFORE you start the tee. Make a 4″ x 4″ foundation single crochet swatch, then a 4″ x 4″ herringbone double crochet swatch (this also confirms your gauge), and then a 6-row Solomon's Knot swatch. By the time your swatches are done you'll have all three techniques in muscle memory and the actual project will feel easy.

Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee styled over a white tank, showing the openwork Solomon's Knot stitch sleeves and drapey cotton fabric — free crochet tee pattern by Marly Bird

Yarn & Materials

Yarn: The Solomon's Knot Tee is designed in Bernat Softee Cotton, a 60% cotton / 40% acrylic blend in the CYCA 3 (light worsted / DK) weight. The cotton gives breathability and a crisp stitch definition; the acrylic gives a little bit of bounce and machine washability. The colorway shown is Dusk Sky.

You'll need 3 (4, 5, 6) balls depending on your size, at 254 yards / 232 meters per 120 g ball.

Get the yarn: Bernat Softee Cotton (Marly's favorite source). Also widely available at Herrschners, Michaels, Yarnspirations, and Amazon.

Bernat Softee Cotton yarn in Dusk Sky — 60% cotton 40% acrylic CYCA 3 light worsted blend used for the Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee free pattern

Yarn Substitutions

If you can't get Bernat Softee Cotton or want to use what's in your stash, look for a CYCA 3 (light worsted / DK) yarn that's predominantly cotton or a cotton/acrylic blend. The pattern depends on the cotton's slight stiffness for fabric structure and the acrylic for ease of care. Avoid 100% wool (too warm) and avoid 100% acrylic (the fabric won't hold the Solomon's Knot shape as crisply). Three good substitutes:

Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton… 100% mercerized cotton, slightly heavier drape
Berroco Remix Light DK… recycled cotton/acrylic/nylon/silk/linen blend, drapey and summer-perfect
WeCrochet/KnitPicks Dishie (held single)… 100% cotton, budget-friendly

Whatever yarn you choose: swatch and block your swatch first. The drape after blocking is the drape your tee will have, and cotton substitutes often surprise you.

Hooks & Notions

You'll need a size G/7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge), stitch markers, a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, blocking mats and pins, and a spray water bottle for blocking.

WeCrochet hooks (all sizes)… my go-to ergonomic hooks
Eucalan Wool Wash… gentle no-rinse wash for cotton blends

Video Tutorials

Every special technique in this pattern has a free video tutorial. Watch before you start and you'll save yourself hours of “wait, what does that mean?”:

How to Read Crochet Diagrams >> Click Here for Video Help <<
Weave in Ends >> Click Here for Video Help <<
Wet Blocking >> Click Here for Video Help <<
Reverse Single Crochet>> Click Here for Video Help <<
Foundation Single Crochet >> Click Here for Video Help <<
How to do the Herringbone Double Crochet >> Click Here for Video Help <<

Love the Pattern but Want an Ad-Free PDF?

If you'd rather print a clean, ad-free PDF of the Solomon's Knot Tee for your project bag, you have three options:

📄 Solomon's Knot Tee Pattern on Etsy
🛍️ Solomon's Knot Tee Pattern on Shopify
🧶 Solomon's Knot Tee Pattern on Ravelry

Or, if you'd love to get my free patterns delivered to your inbox the moment they go live (plus subscriber-only discounts and the occasional yarn rabbit hole), drop your email below 👇

Join our Newsletter

Get Free Crochet & Knitting
Pattern Links & Coupons!

Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee — Pattern Details

Skill Level

Intermediate. Comfortable with basic crochet stitches plus willingness to learn foundation single crochet, herringbone double crochet, and Solomon's Knot.

Sizes

S/M (L/XL, 2X/3X, 4X/5X). The top is oversized with 4-8″ of ease. Sweater shown is 2X/3X.

Note about size: When picking out your size, make sure you check the finished bust. The sweater is designed to be oversized… just to keep in mind, if you are between 2 sizes, you can certainly make it one size smaller to have a tighter fit.

Finished Bust Measurement

42.5 (50, 57, 66)” / 108 (127, 145, 167.5) cm bust circumference.

Gauge

Blocked gauge: 13 herringbone double crochet sts and 8 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10 cm x 10 cm. Check your gauge. Use any size hook to obtain gauge. Swatch is all herringbone double crochet stitches.

Materials

Yarn: Bernat Softee Cotton (60% Cotton / 40% Acrylic, 254 yds/232 m, 4.2 oz/120 g, CYCA 3 light): Dusk Sky, 3 (4, 5, 6) balls.

Hook: G/7 (4.5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, blocking mats and blocking pins, spray water bottle for blocking (optional).

Abbreviations

ch — chain(s)
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
dtr — double treble crochet
fsc — foundation single crochet
pm — place marker
rev sc — reverse single crochet
RS — right side
sc — single crochet
sl st — slip stitch
sp(s) — space(s)
st(s) — stitch(es)
t-ch — turning chain
WS — wrong side

Special Stitches

Foundation Single Crochet (fsc).
First fsc: Ch 2 (does not count as sc), insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook (this forms a chain… optional note: placing a stitch marker can help you see the chain in the next stitch), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (this forms the single crochet).
Next fsc: Insert hook into bottom of previous stitch (in the “chain” space), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook (forming a chain), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (forming the next single crochet). Repeat directions for the desired number of stitches.

Herringbone Double Crochet (herringbone dc). Yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop and through 1 loop on hook, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook.

Reverse Single Crochet (rev sc). Also known as crab stitch. Working from left to right, insert hook from front to back in the next stitch to the right, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook.

Solomon's Knot. Draw up a long loop (about ¾” / 2 cm), yarn over and gently pull through loop on hook (do not pull tight… it should look like a long chain), sc around back loop of stitch just made.

Stitch Diagram

The crochet stitch diagram is exclusive to the ad-free pdf.

📄 Solomon's Knot Tee Pattern on Etsy
🛍️ Solomon's Knot Tee Pattern on Shopify
🧶 Solomon's Knot Tee Pattern on Ravelry

Schematic

Notes

Directions are for smallest size; changes for other sizes are in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
Top is worked in 2 panels from the bottom hem to the shoulders. Sleeves are added directly off the body… with chains on one side and foundation single crochet on the other.
Stitch pattern is reversible.

GROW

>> Learn More About Grow Here <<

Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee pattern cover by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula — free crochet tee pattern in Bernat Softee Cotton, sizes S/M to 4X/5X

Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee — Pattern Instructions

Body (Make 2 Panels)

Foundation Row (WS): 69 (81, 93, 107) fsc (see Special Stitches), turn.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), herringbone dc in each st across to last, hdc in last st, turn.

Repeat Row 1 7 (9, 11, 13) more times or to desired length of body (ending on a WS row), do not fasten off.

✨ Designer Tip: The body length is meant to be customized. The pattern as written gives you a cropped tee… if you want a longer length (regular tee or tunic), repeat Row 1 more times before moving to the sleeves. Just make sure you end on a WS row so your sleeves start on the RS. Each additional row adds about ½” / 1.25 cm of length.

Sleeves — Solid Section

The sleeves are added directly off the body. The Row 1 instruction adds chains on one side and foundation single crochet on the other to create the sleeve width.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 19 (17, 17, 16), sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, hdc in first st on body, herringbone dc in each st across to last, hdc in last st, 18 (16, 16, 15) fsc, turn — 105 (113, 125, 137) sts.

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), herringbone dc in each st across to last, hdc in last st, turn.

Repeat Row 2 5 (7, 9, 11) times.

Sleeves — Solomon's Knot Section

See stitch diagram for assistance with this section.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first st, *make 2 Solomon's Knots, skip 3 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * across to end, turn — 52 (56, 62, 68) Solomon's Knots.

Row 2: Ch 5 (counts as a dtr), make 1 Solomon's Knot, *sc in sc between the next 2 Solomon's Knots, make 2 Solomon's Knots; repeat across to last 2 Solomon's Knots, sc in sc between the last 2 Solomon's Knots, make 1 Solomon's Knot, dtr in last sc, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in dtr, *ch 3, sc in next sc (between the 2 Solomon's Knots); repeat from * across to t-ch, ch 3, sc in t-ch, turn — 26 (28, 31, 34) ch-3 sps.

Row 4: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), *3 herringbone dc in next ch-3 sp, herringbone dc in next sc; repeat from * across to last ch-3 sp, 3 herringbone dc in last ch-3 sp, hdc in last st, turn — 105 (113, 125, 137) sts.

Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), herringbone dc in each st across to t-ch, hdc in top of t-ch, turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first st, *make 2 Solomon's Knots, skip 3 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * across to end, turn — 52 (56, 62, 68) Solomon's Knots.

Row 7: Ch 5 (counts as a dtr), make 1 Solomon's Knot, *sc in sc between the next 2 Solomon's Knots, make 2 Solomon's Knots; repeat across to last 2 Solomon's Knots, sc in sc between the last 2 Solomon's Knots, make 1 Solomon's Knot, dtr in last sc, turn.

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in dtr, *make 2 Solomon's Knots, sc in next sc (between the 2 Solomon's Knots); repeat from * across to t-ch, make 2 Solomon's Knots, sc in t-ch, turn.

Row 9: Ch 5 (counts as a dtr), make 1 Solomon's Knot, *sc in sc between the next 2 Solomon's Knots, make 2 Solomon's Knots; repeat across to last 2 Solomon's Knots, sc in sc between the last 2 Solomon's Knots, make 1 Solomon's Knot, dtr in last sc, turn.

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in dtr, *ch 3, sc in next sc (between the 2 Solomon's Knots); repeat from * across to t-ch, ch 3, sc in t-ch, turn — 26 (28, 31, 34) ch-3 sps.

Row 11: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), *3 herringbone dc in next ch-3 sp, herringbone dc in next sc; repeat from * across to last ch-3 sp, 3 herringbone dc in last ch-3 sp, hdc in last st, turn — 105 (113, 125, 137) sts.

Row 12: Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), herringbone dc in each st across to t-ch, hdc in top of t-ch, turn.

Row 13: Ch 1, sc in first st, *make 2 Solomon's Knots, skip 3 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * across to end, turn — 52 (56, 62, 68) Solomon's Knots.

Row 14: Ch 5 (counts as a dtr), make 1 Solomon's Knot, *sc in sc between the next 2 Solomon's Knots, make 2 Solomon's Knots; repeat across to last 2 Solomon's Knots, sc in sc between the last 2 Solomon's Knots, make 1 Solomon's Knot, dtr in last sc, turn.

Row 15: Ch 1, sc in dtr, *ch 3, sc in next sc (between the 2 Solomon's Knots); repeat from * across to t-ch, ch 3, sc in t-ch, turn — 26 (28, 31, 34) ch-3 sps.

Row 16: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), *3 herringbone dc in next ch-3 sp, herringbone dc in next sc; repeat from * across to last ch-3 sp, 3 herringbone dc in last ch-3 sp, hdc in last st, turn — 105 (113, 125, 137) sts.

Row 17: Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), herringbone dc in each st across to t-ch, hdc in top of t-ch, turn.

Row 18: Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), herringbone dc in each st across to t-ch, hdc in top of t-ch. Fasten off.

Marly Bird modeling the Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee in Bernat Softee Cotton, showing the airy Solomon's Knot stitch sleeves and oversized fit — free crochet tee pattern

Finishing

Weave in all ends.

Pin panels to schematic size, lightly spray with water and allow to dry.

Hold RS of both panels together. Whip stitch underarm and side seam on each side of panel. Whip stitch shoulder seam together leaving a 12 (12, 13, 13)” or desired opening for neck. Turn RS out.

Join yarn to bottom edge of body with a sl st, ch 1, reverse sc around edge of body, sl st to first st, fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat on sleeve openings and neck opening.

Blocking Tips

Blocking matters for this tee. The herringbone double crochet body opens up beautifully after a wet block, and the Solomon's Knot sleeves go from “OK that's lacy” to “wow that's lace” once the long loops relax into their finished shape.

Wet blocking is the method for Bernat Softee Cotton (and any cotton blend). Lay the panels on blocking mats or a clean towel, pin them to the schematic dimensions, and lightly spray with water from a spray bottle until the fabric is evenly damp (not soaking). Smooth the stitches with your fingers, especially the Solomon's Knots… gently pull each long loop to its full length so the lace structure shows clearly. Let the panels dry completely (usually 6-12 hours) before unpinning.

If you substitute a different yarn, check the yarn label for blocking instructions. Most cotton blends respond well to wet blocking. Avoid steam blocking acrylic-heavy yarns at high heat… acrylic can melt or flatten permanently.

✨ Designer Tip: Block the panels BEFORE you seam them. The drape and dimensions change after blocking, and seaming pre-blocked panels gives you cleaner seams than seaming and then blocking. It also lets you confirm your finished bust circumference before you commit to the side seams… if you want to size up or down a touch, this is the moment.

Love This Yarn? More Patterns Using Bernat Softee Cotton

If you fall in love with Bernat Softee Cotton (and you will… it's affordable, soft, and washable), here are more crochet patterns that use it or a comparable cotton blend:

Cutest Cotton Crochet T-Shirt Pattern… another summer cotton tee from the blog
Stoney Creek Sleeveless Tee… cotton-friendly beginner pattern
Browse all free crochet patterns for more cotton-suitable summer designs

Favorite & Queue on Ravelry

Please favorite and queue the Solomon's Knot Crochet Tee on Ravelry and tag your finished projects #SolomonsKnotTee so I can see them. Every color, every body, every finished photo… absolutely made my week.

More Crochet Patterns You'll Love

Sookie Crochet Cardigan (XS-5X)… oversized cardigan I co-designed with Robyn Chachula
Solomon's Knot Crochet Blanket… master the stitch on a bigger canvas – free pattern from Yarnspirations
Solomon's Knot Crochet Cuff (with video)… a quick small project to learn the stitch
60 Must-Have Crochet Tank Top Patterns for Summer… the master roundup
50 Free Crochet Summer Top Patterns… another curated collection

Or browse my full library of free knit and crochet patterns for every free pattern on the blog.

Looking for a sleeveless, fingering-weight version? Designer Sati Glenn created an earlier sleeveless Solomon's Knot tee for WeCrochet using KnitPicks Gloss Fingering (merino/silk) with the Solomon's Knot stitch on the hem only. It's a totally different garment from the cotton tee on this page, but if that sleeveless fingering-weight version is what you came looking for, find Sati's pattern through WeCrochet here.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Solomon's Knot Tee really intermediate? It looks complicated.

Honestly, yes… but the “intermediate” label is mostly because of three special stitches you'll learn (foundation single crochet, herringbone double crochet, and Solomon's Knot), not because the construction is complex. Once you have those three stitches in your hands, the body of the tee is just rows of one stitch back and forth. The Solomon's Knot section in the sleeves is the showpiece, and it's much easier than it looks. All three special stitches have linked video tutorials.

What yarn can I substitute for Bernat Softee Cotton?

Any CYCA 3 (light worsted / DK) cotton or cotton-blend yarn that matches gauge on a G/7 (4.5 mm) hook. Good substitutes include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton (mercerized cotton), Berroco Remix Light DK (recycled cotton/acrylic/nylon/silk/linen blend… drapey and summer-perfect), and WeCrochet Dishie (100% cotton… not our favorite for this but it would work). Avoid 100% wool (too warm for a summer tee) and avoid 100% acrylic (the stitch pattern needs cotton's slight stiffness to hold its shape).

How long does this crochet tee take to make?

Most crocheters finish in 25-40 hours depending on size and crochet speed. A realistic timeline is 2-3 weeks of regular project time. The two-panel construction means you can break it into two sessions of focused work plus a quick seaming session, so it's a great “I want a finished garment soon” project.

Can I make this tee longer or shorter?

Yes, easily. The body length is fully customizable… after the foundation row, repeat Row 1 as many times as you want before moving to the sleeves. The pattern as written gives you a cropped-to-regular tee. For tunic length, add 8-12 more rows. Each repeat of Row 1 adds about ½” / 1.25 cm of length. Just make sure you end on a WS row before starting the sleeves.

What is a Solomon's Knot stitch?

The Solomon's Knot stitch (sometimes called the lover's knot) is an open, lacy crochet stitch made of long pulled-up loops anchored with single crochet. It creates a breathable, drapey fabric that's especially loved for summer garments and shawls. Mechanically it's just two motions: pull up a long loop (¾” / 2 cm) and anchor it with a single crochet in the back loop. Repeat in a rhythmic grid and you get the signature open lace look.

How do I care for this cotton crochet tee?

Bernat Softee Cotton is machine washable. For best results and longest life, machine wash on cool/gentle in a mesh laundry bag, and lay flat to dry. The acrylic content makes it more durable than 100% cotton, and the cotton content keeps it breathable. Re-block lightly if it ever loses its shape after washing… a quick spray and pin will bring back the drape.

Do I have to block this tee?

Yes, please. Blocking is what transforms the Solomon's Knot stitch from “rows of long loops” into the final lace fabric. Blocking is also how you confirm your finished dimensions match the schematic. Wet blocking (light spray + pin to schematic + dry) takes about 20 minutes of active work and 6-12 hours of drying. The pattern is designed for blocked dimensions, so skipping this step means your tee won't fit as designed.

Where can I get the ad-free PDF?

The ad-free PDF is available on Etsy, Shopify, and Ravelry. The PDF is the same pattern formatted cleanly for print, with the schematic and stitch diagram included. Many crocheters prefer it for travel projects or to keep in a project bag.