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Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan – Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern

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📝 Updated April 24, 2026: Refreshed with Marly’s framework voice, new “What You Will Love” section, “Is This Right for You?” audience targeting, Ravelry engagement block, Marly Bird House events context, expanded internal linking (including the new Sookie Crochet Cardigan), FAQ schema, and cleaner affiliate structure. The pattern itself is unchanged.

The Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan is a free crochet cardigan pattern designed for the transitional-season crocheter. Worked in one main piece with clever shaping, this lace cardigan features lightweight wool/silk yarn, post-stitch textured trim, and a pop of contrast-color chain-stitch embroidery. Available in sizes XS through 5XL, the Goldenrod is that perfect “indoor sweater” for air-conditioned spaces or breezy spring evenings… polished, flattering, and approachable for confident beginners.

Hey, bestie 💛

Looking for a light, drapey crochet cardigan that feels polished but still totally “wear it with jeans and a tee” friendly? The Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan has been one of my most-requested garment patterns for years, and I’m so happy it’s available as a free crochet cardigan pattern on the blog, with an option to grab an ad-free PDF if you like to print, highlight, and toss patterns in your project bag.

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and it helps keep these free patterns coming straight from my yarn-loving heart to yours. 💛

A young woman with long curly hair sits on a yellow chair, smiling with her head resting on her hand. She wears a rust-colored shirt, a yellow crocheted cardigan, denim shorts, and a long necklace. -Marly Bird

This lace cardigan is worked in one main piece with clever shaping for the sleeves, then seamed and finished with textured trim and a pop of contrast color. It’s lightweight, flattering on lots of bodies, and one of those “I can’t believe I made this” pieces you’ll want to show off everywhere.

Meet the Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan

The Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan is a long-sleeved, open-front lace cardigan worked in a lightweight wool/silk blend. The fabric has beautiful drape and just enough warmth to be perfect for transitional weather or air-conditioned spaces.

The construction is intentionally straightforward: you start at the back hem, work your way up, grow the sleeves out from the sides, then split for the fronts and shape the neckline. After that, you seam the sides and sleeves and add a cozy collar and sleeve bands with post-stitch texture. A final contrast-color chain-stitch embroidery adds that little “designer detail” that makes people ask where you bought it. 😉

Think of Goldenrod as the cardigan that works just as well with leggings and a tank as it does over a dress for a night out.

🧶 Designer Tip: If you’re someone who overheats easily, this is a great “indoor sweater”… the lace fabric breathes beautifully but still feels like a proper layer.

A smiling woman wears a yellow Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan over an orange shirt. Beside her, printable pattern pages preview the Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern. Text reads "Ad-Free PDF!", "Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan," and "Buy Now" with a shopping cart icon. -Marly Bird
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What You Will Love About This Pattern 💖

Here’s why this pattern has become such a favorite:

  • Versatile and layer-friendly – Lightweight lace fabric makes it easy to wear across seasons.
  • One-piece main construction – Back, sleeves, and fronts are all worked in one continuous piece before seaming.
  • Flattering fit – The lace pattern and gentle positive ease skim the body instead of clinging.
  • Size inclusive – Written to fit a wide bust range, with notes about ease and fit.
  • Customizable – Easy to lengthen, shorten, or tweak sleeve fit to your liking.
  • Advanced-beginner friendly – If you’re comfortable with basic stitches and ready to level up, this is a fantastic “glow-up” cardigan project.

🧶 Designer Tip: If this is your first crocheted garment, breathe. Take it section by section. It’s just stitches in a different shape – you’ve absolutely got this.

Yarn and Substitutions

The original Goldenrod sample uses:

  • Elsebeth Lavold Silky Wool – a wool/silk/nylon blend that’s light, slightly rustic, and drapey.
  • Main Color: a rich yellow, with a warm contrast color used for surface embroidery on the edges.

This yarn is on the lighter side of DK/fingering and gives the cardigan that airy, wearable feel. When you’re choosing a yarn, you’re mainly looking for:

  • A lightweight yarn (fingering or DK depending on how you match gauge)
  • Good stitch definition for lace
  • Fibers that block well (wool, wool blends, or wool/silk blends are amazing here)

Some yarn types that work well for this style of cardigan:

  • Wool or wool/silk blends for cozy drape and great blocking
  • Wool/nylon blends if you want durability and less pilling
  • Mohair/silk held with a smooth yarn if you like a halo and a softer, fuzzier look

Because this cardigan relies on gauge and drape, always swatch (we’ll talk about that in a minute) and choose a yarn that feels good against your skin – this is a garment you’ll wear a lot.

🧶 Designer Tip: If you’re shopping your stash, pull a few candidates and work mini swatches in the main lace pattern from the instructions, not just plain double crochet. That will tell you the truth about how the yarn behaves in this design.

Is This Crochet Cardigan Right for You?

The Goldenrod is a perfect fit if you’re a confident beginner ready for your first lace cardigan, or a more experienced crocheter looking for a relatively quick garment project. You’ll be right at home with this one if you can chain, single crochet, and double crochet, work simple increases and decreases, seam with a tapestry needle, and block a finished garment.

Because the cardigan is worked in a lightweight wool/silk blend in a lace pattern, it makes up faster than you’d expect from the finished look. Most crocheters finish in 40-55 hours depending on size, and the one-piece construction means you’re only dealing with a handful of seams at the end.

Prefer something cozier? My Sookie Crochet Cardigan is a worsted-weight panel-construction cardigan that’s perfect for fall and winter (sizes XS-5X). Together the Goldenrod and Sookie give you year-round cardigan coverage from one designer. Completely new to crochet? Start with my BiCrafty Bootcamp: Learn to Crochet first.

✨ Designer Tip: The Goldenrod stitch pattern relies on counting your stitches carefully in each repeat. Place removable stitch markers at your pattern repeats on the first row, and keep them in place for the whole project. That one tiny habit prevents 90% of the “something is off and I can’t figure out where” moments in lace crochet.

Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan – Pattern Details

Here’s the quick overview you’ll want before you dive in. Use the full pattern for exact numbers and sizing.

  • Skill Level: Advanced beginner / easy intermediate
  • Construction: Worked flat in one piece from lower back up, adding sleeves as you go, then split for fronts; seamed at sides and sleeves; collar and sleeve bands added afterward
  • Yarn Weight: Lightweight yarn (similar to Silky Wool – check the pattern’s yardage and gauge)
  • Hook Size: US F/5 (3.75 mm) or size needed to get gauge
  • Sizes: Written to fit a range of bust measurements with about 0–4 inches of positive ease
  • Gauge: Worked in the main lace pattern over several repeats and rows; check the pattern for the exact stitch and row counts

The pattern also includes:

  • A list of abbreviations and special stitches
  • Pattern notes about ease, fit, and construction
  • A schematic in the ad-free PDF to help visualize the shape

If you’re a chart lover, the stitch diagram for the lace is available in the ad-free PDF pattern on Ravelry:
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/goldenrod-cardigan

A smiling woman wears a yellow Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan over an orange shirt. Beside her, printable pattern pages preview the Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern. Text reads "Ad-Free PDF!", "Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan," and "Buy Now" with a shopping cart icon. -Marly Bird
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Understanding the Stitches and Techniques

You’ll be using standard US crochet terms. Before you begin, you should be comfortable with:

  • Chain (ch)
  • Single crochet (sc)
  • Double crochet (dc)
  • Slip stitch (sl st)
  • Working into chains (this is important for the lace pattern)

Goldenrod also introduces (or reviews) taller stitches and shaping:

  • Double treble crochet (dtr)
  • Double treble crochet two together (dtr2tog) for lace shaping and decreases
  • Working a repeating lace pattern over multiple rows
  • Simple seaming for sleeves and sides
  • Post-stitch texture for the collar and sleeve bands
  • Surface crochet / chain stitch embroidery in a contrast color

🧶 Designer Tip: If double trebles make your brain go, “Excuse me, four yarn overs?!” work a few practice swatches before you start the cardigan. Once your hands get the rhythm, the lace repeat feels meditative instead of scary.

For extra support, you can also explore the Learn to Knit & Crochet resources and video tutorials here:
https://marlybird.com/learn-to-knit-crochet/

A Customizable Fit for Every Body

One of my goals with the Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan was to make something that suits a wide range of bodies and styles. The pattern is written with a range of bust measurements and notes about positive ease, but you can also tweak it:

  • Want it longer?
    Add extra repeats to the back before you work the sleeve increases. Just be sure to mirror those added rows when you work the fronts so everything lines up.
  • Prefer a shorter, more cropped cardigan?
    Work fewer repeats before the sleeves, again keeping the front lengths consistent with the back.
  • Want a bit more room in the upper arm?
    You can gently block the sleeve area for extra ease or add small adjustments in the sleeve section as you gain experience.
  • Want it to close in front?
    You can add hook-and-eye closures at the bust or use pedestal buttons you can move and reposition. The lace fabric has some stretch, so it still looks beautiful even when gently closed.

🧶 Designer Tip: When choosing a size, focus on your upper bust/shoulder measurement and how you like cardigans to hang there. Because it’s open front with some ease, you have a little wiggle room – don’t overthink it.

Gauge, Swatching, and Blocking

I know, I know… swatching isn’t everyone’s favorite, but for a cardigan, it’s non-negotiable if you want a piece that fits the way you imagine.

Here’s what to do:

  1. Work a swatch in the main pattern stitch, not just plain double crochet.
  2. Make it big enough to measure several repeats across and several inches tall.
  3. Block the swatch the way you plan to block the finished cardigan.
  4. Measure your stitches and rows over the center area (not the edges).

If your gauge is off:

  • Too many stitches per 4″ (fabric is tight and small) → go up a hook size.
  • Too few stitches per 4″ (fabric is loose and big) → go down a hook size.

Blocking is what makes this lace fabric really open up and drape beautifully. For help deciding between steam blocking and wet blocking, check out this deep-dive post:

Steam Blocking vs Wet Blocking Superwash Yarn (Prism Make-Along Part 10)
https://marlybird.com/blog/steam-blocking-vs-wet-blocking-superwash-yarn-prism-make-along-part-10/

🧶 Designer Tip: Treat your swatch like a tiny science experiment. It’s much easier to adjust one little swatch than to crochet an entire cardigan and then realize it’s “surprise crop top” length.

How the Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan Is Constructed

Here’s a high-level overview so you know what you’re getting into before you start counting chains:

  • You begin at the lower back and work in the main lace pattern for a set number of rows.
  • Then you increase out on both sides to create the sleeves by adding long chains and working the lace pattern across them.
  • After building the sleeves and upper back, you split for the neck opening and work the right front and left front separately from the sleeves inward.
  • The main body piece is then seamed along the sides and sleeves to create the cardigan shape.
  • Finally, you add:
    • A textured collar/neckband worked in rows of double crochet and post stitches
    • Matching sleeve bands with the same texture
    • A contrast-color surface chain worked along the collar and cuffs for a decorative finish

🧶 Designer Tip: Take a picture of your piece laid flat right before seaming and compare it to the schematic in the PDF. It’s a quick way to check that everything looks right before you commit to seaming.

How to Style Your Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan

Once you’ve woven in the last end and finished blocking, the fun part begins: wearing it. Here are some ideas:

  • Casual Cozy
    Throw Goldenrod over a simple tee or tank, jeans, and sneakers. Let the lace and color do the talking.
  • Office Ready
    Layer it over a blouse or fitted knit top with tailored pants or a skirt. The lace cardigan instantly dresses things up without feeling stuffy.
  • Date Night / Out With Friends
    Pop it over a solid dress or jumpsuit and add jewelry that echoes the cardigan color. Instant “I planned this outfit” energy. 💃
  • Yarn Event Chic
    Pair with jeans, boots, and your favorite project bag. Fellow makers will absolutely ask what pattern it is.

🧶 Designer Tip: If you love planning outfits, snap a few mirror selfies with Goldenrod styled different ways and save them in an album on your phone. Next time you’re in a “what do I wear?” mood, just scroll and pick one.

A woman with short brown hair smiles slightly while wearing a yellow crocheted cardigan over an orange top. She stands outdoors in front of blurred foliage and branches, holding her sweater with both hands. -Marly Bird
A woman with short brown hair and hoop earrings smiles brightly with her arms raised. She is wearing an orange shirt and a yellow crocheted cardigan, standing outdoors with blurred trees in the background. -Marly Bird
Smiling woman with brown hair stands outdoors, wearing a yellow crocheted shawl over an orange shirt and blue jeans. Trees and stones are visible in the background. -Marly Bird

Explore More Free Crochet Cardigan Patterns

If you love crochet cardigans, you’re in wonderful company. Here are more free cardigan patterns here on the blog to explore — together they give you a cardigan for every season, every yarn weight, and every vibe:

Or browse my full library of free knit and crochet patterns for every free pattern on the blog.

Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan – Free Pattern on the Blog

by Marly Bird
MARLYBIRD.COM

DESCRIPTION

The Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan is pure sunshine you can throw on—light, lacy, and just the right amount of flirty for warm spring days and breezy summer nights. With its cropped fit and airy stitch pattern, it layers beautifully over tanks and dresses, adding a soft pop of golden glow without ever feeling heavy or fussy. It’s the kind of cardigan you reach for when you want to feel cute, comfy, and a little bit radiant while you go about your day.

GENERAL INFO

Yarn

Elsebeth Lavold, Silky Wool
50 g / 175 m
45% Wool, 35% Silk, 20% Nylon

Main Color (MC): 091 Yellow Apple
5 (6, 8, 9, 11, 12) balls

Contrast Color (CC): 090 Persimmon
1 ball

Hook

Size US F/5 (3.75 mm) hook

Notions

⭐️ Marly Bird Amazon Storefront ⭐️

Gauge

4 pattern stitch repeats and 8 rows =
4.5″ [11.5 cm] x 4.5″ [11.5 cm]

Finished Measurements

To fit bust sizes:
37 (41.5, 46, 50.5, 55, 59.5, 64)”
[94 (105.5, 117, 128.5, 139.5, 151, 162.5) cm]

ABBREVIATIONS

BPDC – back post double crochet
CC – contrasting color
CH – chain
DC – double crochet
DTR – double treble crochet
EST – established
FPDC – front post double crochet
INC – increase
MC – main color
PAT(S) – pattern(s)
RS – right side
SC – single crochet
SL ST – slip stitch
ST(S) – stitch(es)
TR – treble crochet
WS – wrong side

SPECIAL STITCHES

Double Treble Crochet (dtr)

Yarn over hook three times, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop; (yarn over and draw through two loops) four times.

Double Treble Crochet 2 Together (dtr2tog)

[Yarn over hook three times, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop; (yarn over and draw through two loops) three times] twice, yarn over and draw through three loops.

Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc)

Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop; [yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook] twice.

Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)

Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop; [yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook] twice.

A smiling woman wears a yellow Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan over an orange shirt. Beside her, printable pattern pages preview the Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern. Text reads "Ad-Free PDF!", "Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan," and "Buy Now" with a shopping cart icon. -Marly Bird
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PATTERN STITCHES

Main Pattern Stitch

Chain a multiple of 6 chains + 2.

Row 1 (RS):
Sc in second chain from hook (main chain stitches), *ch 7, sc in second chain from hook, ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch, ch 1, skip 2 ch, dtr in next ch, skip 5 chains from sc on main chain, sc in next ch; repeat from * to end. Turn.

Row 2 (WS):
Ch 5, *sc in first 2 chains of ch-7 from previous row, ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch, ch 1, skip 2 ch, **dtr in next ch; repeat from * to last sc, ending at ** on last repeat, dtr2tog in next ch and in last sc of previous row. Turn.

Row 3 (RS):
Ch 1, sc in dtr2tog, *ch 7, sc in second ch from hook, ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch, ch 1, skip 2 ch, dtr in next ch, **sc in tr of previous row; repeat from * to end, ending at ** on last repeat, sc in fifth ch of turning chain. Turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for Main pattern.

Crochet stitch diagram for the Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan, showing a repeating pattern with chain, double crochet, and treble stitches in blocks. Includes row numbers, starting chain, and "ch multiple of 6 + 2" at the bottom. -Marly Bird

NOTES

  • Instructions are given for smallest size, with larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
  • Gauge should be taken after swatch is washed and blocked. If you take gauge prior to washing and blocking the swatch, you will get an incorrect gauge.

This easy one piece crochet cardigan is worked in one panel that is seamed together to create sleeves and sides. It’s one of my favorite beginner-friendly garment constructions because it’s nearly impossible to mess up!

  • Construction: Crocheted from the bottom up starting at the back, adding the sleeves, then added neck and front opeing. You’ll seam along the bottom of the sleeves and along each side.
  • Fit: This cardigan is designed for a relaxed, drapey fit with plenty of positive ease. If you prefer a closer fit, choose a smaller size or adjust your hook size for a slightly tighter gauge. But be aware of the size of the neck opening as it can get too large.
  • Gauge: Because drape is everything here, make a hanging gauge swatch before starting. Gravity changes how fabric hangs—and we want this cardigan to flow beautifully.
  • Yarn Substitution: If you swap yarns, pick something with similar drape and weight. Cotton, bamboo, or linen blends are best for breathable summer cardigans. Acrylic blends work too, but may have less movement.
  • Customization: Want a longer/shorter cardigan? Just add remove rows evenly to both the front before the sleeves are added and after the sleeves are decreased on the front.
  • Blocking: Light blocking before and after seaming will make your stitches shine and help everything hang just right.
  • Finishing Touches: Feel free to add a single crochet border, fringe, or even a belt—make it uniquely yours!

Remember, every maker’s stitch tension is unique. Take your time, check your gauge, and enjoy the relaxing rhythm of this two-seam crochet cardigan pattern. You’ve got this!

SCHEMATIC

Black and white sewing pattern diagram for a garment piece, with labeled sections for Back, Left Front, and Right Front. Perfect for designing your own Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan or using as a Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern guide. Measurements included. -Marly Bird
A smiling woman wears a yellow Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan over an orange shirt. Beside her, printable pattern pages preview the Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern. Text reads "Ad-Free PDF!", "Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan," and "Buy Now" with a shopping cart icon. -Marly Bird

Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan — Pattern Instructions

BACK

With MC, chain 98 (110, 122, 134, 146, 158, 170) and work in Main pattern for
22 (22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 28) rows, ending after Row 2 —
16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28) pattern stitch repeats.

Increase for Sleeves

Next Row (RS):
Chain 55 for first sleeve, drop loop off hook. Using a separate skein of MC, chain 54 and slip stitch to end of other end of row for second sleeve. Fasten off second skein. Put hook back in the live loop for first sleeve. Work Main pattern Row 1 across chain stitches, then continue to work Main pattern Row 3 across back, then work Main pattern Row 1 across last 54 chains —
34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46) pattern stitch repeats.

Continue working in Main pattern for
11 (11, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17) more rows, ending after Row 2.

Neck Opening

Next Row (RS):
Work Main pattern Row 3 across
14 (15, 16, 16, 17, 18, 19) repeats for right front, drop loop off hook, skip
6 (6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) repeats in center. Join new yarn to first sc of next repeat and work Main pattern Row 3 across remaining
14 (15, 16, 16, 17, 18, 19) repeats for left front.

Place stitch marker in loop on hook and set aside. Put hook back in live loop for right front and continue working right front stitches only.

Right Front Sleeve

Continue working right front stitches for
11 (11, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17) more rows, ending after Row 2. Finish off.

Decrease for Sleeves

Next Row (RS):
Skip 9 repeats, join new yarn with a sc in dtr of next repeat, continue Main pattern Row 3 across remaining
5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10) repeats.

Continue working for
21 (21, 23, 23, 25, 25, 27) more rows, ending on Row 2. Finish off.

Left Front

Remove stitch marker and put hook back in live loop for left front. Continue working left front stitches for
11 (11, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17) more rows, ending after Row 2.

Decrease for Sleeves

Next Row (RS):
Work Main pattern Row 3 across
5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10) repeats, turn skipping last 9 repeats.

Continue working for
21 (21, 23, 23, 25, 25, 27) more rows, ending on Row 2. Finish off.

FINISHING

Collar

With RS facing, join MC to lower right front neck edge with a slip stitch, chain 1, work an odd number of single crochets evenly around entire neck to lower left front neck edge. Turn.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 3, dc in each stitch around. Turn.
Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, *bpdc in next stitch, fpdc in next stitch; repeat from * to last stitch, dc in last stitch. Turn.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.
Repeat Row 1 once more.
Next row: Ch 1, slip stitch in each stitch. Finish off.

Arm Bands

With RS facing, join MC to edge of sleeve with a slip stitch, chain 1, work an odd number of single crochets across edge of sleeve.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 3, dc in each stitch around. Turn.
Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, *bpdc in first stitch, fpdc in next stitch; repeat from * to last stitch, dc in last stitch. Turn.

Repeat Row 1 once more.
Next row: Ch 1, slip stitch in each stitch. Finish off.

CC Trim

Join CC to RS of collar and work crochet chain stitch embroidery along surface of fabric. Repeat for each arm band. Weave in loose ends.

Block piece to measurements.
With RS facing each other, whip stitch sides together.

Lower Edging

With RS facing, join MC to lower left front trim edge and single crochet evenly around. Finish off.

A smiling woman wears a yellow Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan over an orange shirt. Beside her, printable pattern pages preview the Free Crochet Cardigan Pattern. Text reads "Ad-Free PDF!", "Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan," and "Buy Now" with a shopping cart icon. -Marly Bird
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Ad-Free PDF Pattern

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A smiling person with curly hair and glasses forms a heart shape with their hands. Behind them, the text reads "Marly Bird," "Weekly Newsletter," and "Your BigCrafty Bestie." Sporting a light cardigan, they share the joy of an amigurumi free crochet animal pattern. -Marly Bird

If you prefer a printer-friendly version or just like having your patterns stored in a digital library with no ads or pop-ups, the ad-free PDF is a great option.

The Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan PDF includes:

  • Clean, easy-to-read formatting
  • The full written pattern for all sizes
  • Stitch diagram for the lace pattern
  • Schematic to help visualize the garment shape
  • All abbreviations and special stitches in one place

You can purchase the PDF here:

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🧶 Designer Tip: If you’re the kind of maker who likes to knit or crochet at kids’ practice, on the bus, or in waiting rooms, the PDF pays for itself in fewer “wait, where was I?” moments.

More Crochet Patterns You’ll Love

If Goldenrod has you hooked on crochet garments (in the good way 😏), here are more places to explore:

You can also look up these crochet cardigan favorites on the blog or in your pattern library:

A smiling woman with blond hair and glasses wears a blue and purple crocheted shawl over a black top. She stands indoors in a cozy room with a ladder shelf, a red pot of white flowers, and free knitting and crochet patterns on display. -Marly Bird
A smiling woman with glasses and curly blonde hair wears a pink Easy One Piece Crochet Cardigan, making a heart shape with her hands. She stands in a cozy room with shelves of yarn and home decor in the background. -Marly Bird
Marly Bird beams with joy, modeling her Aurora Lace Crochet Cardigan in cobalt blue, showcasing the bold lacework and cozy ribbed edges of this handmade garment.
Aurora Lace Cardigan

FAQs: Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan

Can a confident beginner make this?
Yes. If you’re comfortable with basic stitches (ch, sc, dc), reading row-by-row instructions, and doing some simple seaming, this is a fantastic first garment with a bit of spice. The taller stitches and lace pattern are new for many crocheters, but totally doable with patience.

What if my gauge doesn’t match?
Adjust your hook size until your blocked swatch matches the gauge given in the pattern. Because this is a garment, getting close on both stitches and rows is important so the sleeves and body lengths land where you want them.

Can I use a different yarn weight?
Goldenrod is written for a specific lightweight yarn. If you change yarn weight, you’ll be doing some “design math” on the fly. For best results, stick to a yarn that’s similar in thickness and fiber and focus on matching gauge.

Can I make the sleeves shorter?
Yes. You can work fewer rows in the sleeve sections before shaping for the fronts. Just remember that any major change in sleeve length will also affect how much yarn you need.

Is there a video tutorial?
At the time of writing, this pattern does not have its own dedicated step-by-step video. However, many of the stitches and techniques used in Goldenrod are covered in other tutorials on my YouTube channel and on MarlyBird.com. If a dedicated Goldenrod video is added later, you can always update this section with the link.

How can I share my finished Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan?
Please do… I love seeing your makes!

  • Tag me on Instagram: @themarlybird
  • Use hashtags: #mmmdi and #marlybird
  • Share in the Facebook group: “Marly’s Minions: Marly Bird BiCrafty Community” so we can all ooh and ahh over your stitches together 💖
A woman with short brown hair smiles and stretches her arms behind her head. She is wearing an orange shirt and a yellow crocheted cardigan, standing outdoors in front of leafless trees. -Marly Bird

Want to Crochet With Marly’s Community? Join a Marly Bird House Event

One of the best ways to experience my patterns is during a live Marly Bird House event, where I teach a full pattern start-to-finish with real-time support, community encouragement, and the joy of everyone working on the same project together.

My four annual Marly Bird House make-along events:

  • 🏈 Game Day Mystery Make-Along (winter)… a cozy pattern released during football season
  • 🌸 First Fall (late summer/early fall)… a transitional-weather piece to carry you into layering season
  • 🦃 Turkey Trot Mystery Make-Along (November)… the big Thanksgiving-season release (this is where the Sookie Cardigan was born)
  • 🏆 Tournament of Stitches (TOS) (spring)… four mystery shawls over 4 weeks, the longest-running Marly event

Each event is a LIVE experience with me teaching, answering questions, and celebrating finished projects. After the event wraps, the full pattern becomes available as a workshop PDF with videos inside Marly Bird House, so you can work through it anytime. Want first access to the next event? Get on the newsletter.

Final Thoughts

The Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan is one of those pieces that looks impressive on the hanger but is surprisingly approachable to make. It’s rhythmic without being boring, wearable without being plain, and it has just enough thoughtful details to make you feel like a crochet rockstar every time you put it on.

So grab your yarn, your hook, and a comfy spot on the couch. Goldenrod is ready for her close-up… and so are you.

And when you finish, you know the drill: tag me @themarlybird and use #GoldenrodCrochetCardigan, #mmmdi, and #marlybird so I can cheer you on and show off your beautiful cardigan to the community. 💛

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Favorite This on Ravelry

Please favorite and queue the Goldenrod Crochet Cardigan on Ravelry and tag your finished projects #GoldenrodCrochetCardigan. Seeing your color choices and finished photos is my favorite part of the week.

Love, Your BiCrafty Bestie, Marly Bird

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❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

A cartoon avatar of a person with glasses and a brown bun smiles warmly. Their green shirt and black jacket add a stylish touch, while colorful hearts surround them like loving temperature blankets, stitching together an aura of love and positivity. -Marly Bird

17+ One Ball Projects For Quick Knit and Crochet

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📝 Updated April 22, 2026: Added new one-ball patterns including the Peak Serenity Knit Shawl, expanded yarn-buying guidance, added affiliate yarn recommendations, refreshed internal links, added JSON-LD FAQ schema for better discoverability, and added buying guide for one-ball yarn shopping.

Looking for one ball projects to knit or crochet? This roundup of 17+ free one ball patterns will help you turn a single skein of yarn into a beautiful finished project. From knit shawls and hats to crochet cowls, scarves, and headbands, these one skein knitting and crochet patterns are perfect for stash busting, quick gifts, or trying out a luxury yarn you’ve been saving. All patterns are free and include Marly Bird’s signature teaching-first approach.

Hey, bestie 💛

There are so many reasons you might have a single skein of yarn. You bought one hank because it was gorgeous and you couldn’t resist. Someone who knows you love yarn gifted you a special skein for your birthday. Or maybe you had just one leftover from a bigger project and you don’t want to toss it in the stash forever. Whatever the reason, the question is the same: what do you actually make with one ball of yarn?

You make a one ball project. That’s what. And there are WAY more options than you think.

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and it helps keep these free patterns coming straight from my yarn-loving heart to yours. 💛

What Can You Make With One Ball Of Yarn?

There are more one ball project choices than you might think, especially when it comes to finer yarn like fingering, sock yarn, or lace. You may not squeeze a sweater, blanket, or large garment out of one hank (unless it’s sized for a baby or doll)… but each finer ball has so much yardage that it goes a long way whether you knit or crochet.

A shawl is always a favorite one-skein project for lace and fingering weight yarn. Wraps, scarves, mitts, socks, and lightweight shrugs are all on the menu too. With a bit of creativity, you can create a cowl, hat, mittens, amigurumi toy, headbands, baby mittens, or booties from thicker single skeins… even worsted weight, depending on the yardage.

Whatever the yarn weight, you definitely can make something beautiful out of one hank. Here’s our roundup of free one ball projects to knit and crochet.

Free one ball projects roundup including knitting and crochet patterns using one skein of yarn - Marly Bird

How to Pick the Right One Ball Project

Before you dive into the patterns, here’s a quick cheat sheet for matching your single skein to the right project:

  • Bulky & super bulky yarn (under 150 yds): Chunky hat, cowl, headband, fingerless mitts
  • Worsted weight (200-500 yds): Hat, cowl, scarf, triangle shawl, baby sweater, amigurumi
  • DK & sport weight (250-450 yds): Shawlette, cowl, baby hat, mitts, small scarf
  • Fingering weight (400-500 yds): One-skein shawl, pair of socks, shawlette, light scarf
  • Lace weight (400+ yds): Lace shawl, delicate scarf, heirloom shawlette

Once you know what you want to make, matching it to a pattern below is the easy part.

✨ Designer Tip: When you’re shopping for yarn specifically for a one-ball project, always buy ONE EXTRA skein. A second ball gives you breathing room if you tweak your size or gauge, and it’s much cheaper insurance than running out mid-bind-off. Dye lots change fast. Future-you will thank present-you.

One Ball Projects for Knitters

Here are my favorite free one skein knitting patterns, including several I’ve designed over the years:

Peak Serenity One Ball Knit Shawl

Peak Serenity free one ball knit shawl pattern in green worsted weight yarn - Marly Bird

The Peak Serenity Shawl is a free one ball knit shawl pattern designed for adventurous beginners. Worked flat on US 10 needles in one skein of worsted weight yarn, this right-angle triangle shawl features soothing garter stitch and a diamond brocade edging. Finished size: 50 inch wingspan. Travel-friendly, gift-worthy, and a weekend knit.

Super Simple Knit Scarf/Cowl

Free one ball knit scarf cowl pattern combining lace and ribbing - Marly Bird

This great one-skein knit project combines lace and ribbing in one piece. You can wear it as a scarf… or thanks to the buttons, button it up into a cowl. It is one of the most versatile one ball projects I have designed.

Chevron Knit Hat for Beginners

Free beginner chevron knit hat pattern using one skein of yarn - Marly Bird

This is an easy free beginner knit hat pattern. You’ll use simple knitting stitches to create a subtle single-color chevron pattern. No complicated shaping required. If you are a new knitter looking for your first hat, this is the one.

Seed Stitch Knit Hat Pattern

Free seed stitch knit hat pattern one ball project - Marly Bird

The knit seed stitch is an easy, beautiful beginner stitch pattern. Use it to create this terrific instant-gratification one ball knit hat.

Many knit hats are great one ball projects. Some of my other favorites include the Double Dip Knit Ribbed Hat and the Ebb and Flow Chunky Knit Hat.

Topping Scarf Knit Pattern

Topping Scarf free one ball knit scarf pattern in luxury yarn - Marly Bird

This is one of my early one ball projects and still a favorite. It is a terrific knit scarf made from a single skein of luxury yarn. The beautiful lace design showcases that special skein perfectly.

Loop It Cowl

Free Loop It cowl knitting pattern using one ball of loop yarn - Marly Bird

Loop It is a really unique yarn designed for finger knitting (no needles required). My Loop It Cowl design uses only a single ball of this fun yarn. Perfect if you want a project that comes together in an afternoon.

Want more knit shawl options? Browse my full Knit Shawl Patterns hub for every free shawl on the blog, sorted by shape, season, and skill level. Many of them work as one-ball or two-ball projects.

One Ball Projects for Crocheters

Crocheters, you are absolutely not left out. Here are my favorite free one skein crochet patterns:

Super Simple Crochet Shawl

Super Simple Shawl easy free one ball crochet shawl pattern - Marly Bird

Use very basic crochet stitches to create this openwork filet mesh shawl. One hank of colorful or long color-changing yarn is all you need to create the magic of this design.

Roll With It Crochet Shawl

Roll With It Shawl free one ball crochet shawl pattern - Marly Bird

This free crochet shawl pattern is similar to my Super Simple Shawl with a few tweaks. Different yarn, different border, different seaming approach. Both are fantastic one ball projects.

Caron Go-To One Skein Crochet Shawl

Caron Go-To one skein crochet shawl free pattern - Marly Bird

Work this crochet shawl from the center out for a fun one ball project. It has a beautiful openwork design with stitches that are really satisfying to work. That scalloped border makes a big statement.

Crochet One Skein Soft Essentials Cowl

Crochet One Skein Soft Essentials one ball cowl free pattern - Marly Bird

This is one of my favorite one ball projects. It uses a delicate lace crochet stitch pattern combined with post stitches for added texture. The contrast between the lace and the post stitch sections is striking.

Many crochet cowl patterns are great one ball projects. For another favorite, check out my Jilly Bean Cowl.

Skinny Broomstick Scarf Pattern

Free one ball crochet broomstick lace scarf pattern - Marly Bird

Have you ever crocheted broomstick lace? It is a gorgeous technique. This single-ball skinny scarf pattern uses broomstick lace to create an open, lacy look from one skein.

Trinity Stitch One Ball Crochet Hat Pattern

Trinity stitch one ball crochet hat free pattern - Marly Bird

The trinity stitch is an easy stitch pattern that creates a beautiful texture. Use one ball of yarn to turn this stitch into an easy new crochet hat.

Blossom Crochet Hat Pattern

Blossom Crochet Hat one ball pattern with brim - Marly Bird

This advanced crochet pattern takes the idea of a messy bun hat and adds a brim for a more sophisticated finish. Not every hat is a one ball project, but many (like this one) absolutely are.

The When We Were Young crochet hat pattern is another great one-ball hat design.

Bumpy Road Headband Crochet Pattern

Bumpy Road Spa headband one ball crochet pattern - Marly Bird

You do not need anywhere near a full ball of yarn to complete this quick but adorable crochet pattern. Make a set so all the gals in the family can match!

✨ Designer Tip: One-ball projects are perfect for trying out a new yarn before you commit to enough for a sweater or blanket. Treat that single skein as a swatch-with-purpose. You’ll finish with a usable accessory AND real-world knowledge about whether you want to buy more of that yarn.

Where to Shop for the Perfect One-Ball Yarn

One of the great joys of a one ball project is that a single beautiful skein is genuinely affordable. You can splurge on a luxury yarn you would never buy in sweater quantities, or stock up on a few budget skeins in different colors for a whole collection of matching accessories.

My favorite places to shop for one-ball yarn:

⭐️ Marly Bird Amazon Storefront ⭐️

More One Skein Crochet Patterns (From My Book)

One Skein or Less crochet projects book by Marly Bird - Marly Bird

Want even more one ball project ideas? Check out my Leisure Arts book of one skein crochet patterns! Every design is quick, easy, and built for instant-gratification crafting. Great for gifts, stash busting, or trying out a new technique without committing to a big project.

Learn More Knit & Crochet Techniques at Marly Bird House

Ready to level up your knit or crochet skills? Come join me live at BiCrafty Stitch-Nite at Marly Bird House… I teach techniques like lace edgings, short row shaping, advanced blocking, and more. It is the perfect place to practice the skills that turn every one-ball project into something gift-worthy.

Brand new to knitting or crochet? Start with my Learn to Knit & Crochet hub or jump into BiCrafty Bootcamp: Learn to Knit or BiCrafty Bootcamp: Learn to Crochet. Every lesson is free.

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Frequently Asked Questions

What can I actually make with just one ball of yarn?

More than you’d think! Hats and cowls are the classics… most worsted weight hats use under 200 yards, which is well within a single skein. Scarves, fingerless mitts, small shawlettes, headbands, dishcloths, baby booties, stuffed toys, pot holders, and little bags are all one-ball territory depending on the yarn weight. The key is picking a project sized right for your yardage. This collection has over 17 patterns designed specifically to work within a single ball.

What yarn weight works best for one ball projects?

Bulky and super bulky yarns give you the most coverage per yard, so they’re great for quick one-ball makes like hats and cowls. Worsted is the sweet spot for most accessories. DK and sport weight work beautifully for baby items and smaller accessories. Even fingering weight has its place… a one-skein fingering weight shawlette or pair of socks is totally doable! It really comes down to what you want to make and how fast you want it to work up.

How do I know if my yarn has enough yardage for a project?

Check the pattern’s yardage requirement and compare it to your yarn label. Most yarn labels list the yardage right on them. If your single ball has more yards than the pattern needs… you’re golden. If it’s close, plan for potential adjustments (you might make a slightly shorter scarf, for example). And if you’re designing your own one-ball project, a rough rule of thumb is that a worsted weight hat uses about 100-150 yards and a basic cowl uses 150-250 yards.

Are one ball projects good for using up stash yarn?

They’re literally PERFECT for stash busting. Single skeins from past projects, yarn you bought because it was pretty but didn’t have a plan for… this is their moment. One-ball projects are also great for trying out a yarn before you commit to buying multiple skeins for a bigger project. Think of every orphan skein in your stash as a hat, a cowl, or a small gift waiting to happen.

Can I combine two different yarns for a one ball project?

Absolutely. Some of the most beautiful one-ball style projects use two contrasting single skeins for a two-tone effect. Pair a solid with a variegated, two complementary colors, or two different textures for an interesting finished piece. Just make sure the yarn weights are compatible. You can also hold two thinner yarns together to create a heavier weight… two strands of DK held together gives you roughly worsted weight.

Do I need to block a one ball project?

Depends on the yarn. Natural fibers like wool, merino, and silk benefit hugely from wet blocking… it opens up lace, evens out stitches, and transforms the finished look. Acrylic and superwash yarns don’t need blocking and can sometimes be damaged by heat. If your one-ball project is a lace shawl or a natural fiber garment, block it. If it’s acrylic, you can usually skip blocking entirely.

💬 Final Thoughts

One ball projects are my favorite kind of “treat yourself” knitting and crochet. They’re affordable, they finish fast, and they let you play with gorgeous yarn you might not otherwise commit to. Whether you’re stash busting, gifting, or just giving a fancy skein the spotlight it deserves… there’s a one-ball project in this roundup for you.

Which one are you casting on first? Tag me @marlybird on social media or use #MarlyBird when you share. Seeing your one-ball creations is honestly the best part of my week.

Love, Your BiCrafty Bestie, Marly Bird

Marly Bird Bitmoji with rainbow hearts

Mother’s Day Knitting & Crochet Gift Guide 2026

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Looking for the perfect handmade Mother’s Day gift? This BiCrafty gift guide features the best knit AND crochet patterns to make for Mom in 2026… from quick one-skein projects you can finish this weekend to luxurious shawls she’ll treasure forever. Whether you knit, crochet, or both, you’ll find something Mom will actually love and use. Includes free patterns, video tutorials, and gift-making tips.

Hey, bestie 💛

Mother’s Day is May 10th… and if you just felt a tiny panic, take a breath. You have time. Especially if you start now. 😉

I put together this gift guide because I believe the best gifts are the ones made with your hands and your heart. And honestly… nothing says “I love you, Mom” quite like something you stitched yourself.

The best part? This guide has options for knitters AND crocheters… because we’re BiCrafty around here, and Mom deserves the best no matter which hook or needle you pick up. 🧶💛

Smiling woman with glasses, surrounded by yarn, craft tools, and a heart-shaped knit gift for Mother’s Day.

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. To learn more please visit my privacy policy here💖

Quick Gifts (Finish This Weekend!) ⚡

Short on time? These projects can be finished in a day or a weekend… and they still look like you spent weeks on them.

🧶 Mother’s Day Knitting Gifts for Quick Finishes

  • Quick Knit Cowl — a one-skein wonder that works up in an evening. Simple, elegant, and Mom can wear it year-round with lighter yarn.
  • Afternoon Delight Quickie Knit Hat — the name says it all. Fast, fun, and a great gift.
  • Knit Dishcloths/Spa Cloths — pair 2-3 handknit cloths with a nice bar of soap or lotion for an instant spa gift set. Uses cotton yarn and basic stitches.

🧶 For Crocheters

Woman with glasses holds wrapped knit gifts and a yarn basket, surrounded by colorful hearts and stars.

✨ Designer Tip: The secret to a “quick” gift looking expensive? Use beautiful yarn. A simple stockinette cowl in a hand-dyed merino looks a million times more special than the same cowl in basic acrylic. Splurge on the yarn… save time on the pattern.

A woman in glasses shows a mannequin with a knitted wrap; yarn, needles, and swirling patterns decorate the crafting scene.

Shawls & Wraps (The Classic Mom Gift) 🧶

If there’s ONE category of handmade gift that moms universally love… it’s a shawl. They’re wearable, practical, beautiful, and every time Mom wraps it around her shoulders, she thinks of you. That’s the power of a handmade shawl.

A handmade shawl is the best Mother’s Day gift for knitters and crocheters to make because it combines luxury, practicality, and emotional significance in one wearable project.

🧶 Knit Shawls

Bright pink, coral, and fuchsia yarn, shown unwrapped and wrapped with a MadelineTosh label, highlights its soft texture.

🧶 Crochet Shawls

✨ Designer Tip: If you’re making a shawl for Mom, choose a yarn in HER favorite color, not yours. Ask casually… “Hey Mom, what’s your favorite color to wear?” She won’t suspect a thing. 😉

Want to see ALL my shawl patterns? Check out my complete Knit Shawl Patterns and Crochet Shawl Patterns collections.

Wearables Mom Will Actually Use 👕

Let’s be honest… some handmade gifts live in a drawer. These won’t. These are the kind of pieces Mom reaches for every day.

Handknit Socks — nothing says “I love you” like a pair of cozy handknit socks. Practical, personal, and Mom will wear them all the time. Check out our collection of easy sock patterns perfect for Mother’s Day.

Simple Knit or Crochet Cardigan — a lightweight cardigan Mom can throw on over anything. Perfect for cool spring evenings and year-round layering. See our free cardigan patterns.

Cozy Hat & Cowl Set — pair the Afternoon Delight Hat with the Quick Knit Cowl for a matching gift set that looks professionally designed. Two quick projects that make one stunning gift!

Gifts for the Mom Who Knits or Crochets 🎁

Is YOUR mom a maker? Then she doesn’t need another finished project… she needs the tools and materials to make her OWN projects. Here are some ideas:

👉 For more ideas, check out my Best Gifts for Crocheters Online Gift Guide

Woman with glasses holds a pencil beside a "When to Start" checklist featuring yarn, gift, and calendar icons for crafting gifts.

The “Start Now” Timeline ⏰

Mother’s Day is May 10, 2026. Here’s your plan depending on how much time you have:

Time Left What to Make
4+ weeks (start now!) A full shawl, cardigan, or sweater. You have plenty of time for a showstopper.
2-3 weeks A scarf, cowl, or smaller shawl. One-skein projects are your friend.
1 week Slippers, a hat, dishcloth spa set, or crochet flowers. Quick projects with big impact.
2-3 days A mug cozy, coasters, or a single crochet flower with a heartfelt card. The thought counts!
Tomorrow 😅 A gift card to a yarn shop + a promise to make something together. Mom will love it.

✨ Designer Tip: Whatever you make, include a handwritten note explaining what the project is, what yarn you used, and how to care for it. A simple “wash on gentle, lay flat to dry” card turns a handmade gift into an heirloom. 💛

Cartoon woman with glasses behind wrapped gifts and wrapping paper, pink hearts and confetti, "Gift Wrapping Ideas & Tips" text.

Gift Wrapping Ideas for Handmade Gifts 🎀

You put all that love into making it… don’t just stuff it in a gift bag! Here are some ideas for presenting your handmade gift:

  • 🎀 Wrap the shawl or cowl around a bottle of wine or fancy tea
  • 🎀 Place slippers in a basket with lotion, bath bombs, and a candle for a spa basket
  • 🎀 Tie a crochet flower to the outside of the gift wrap as a decoration (that’s a bonus gift!)
  • 🎀 Roll the project beautifully, tie with a ribbon, and attach a handwritten care card
  • 🎀 Use a reusable tote bag as the “wrapping”… another practical gift inside a practical gift!
A logo with a blue yarn ball, crochet and knit motifs, two pink hearts, green zigzags, and a yellow 2026 banner.

Currently Stitching with Us? 🧶

If you’re participating in the Tournament of Stitches 2026, you’re already making a shawl… and that shawl could BE Mom’s gift! Two birds, one stone.

Just remember, it is never too late to join a Marly Bird Make-Along! All the information you need is available on the event blog posts. And of course the Marly’s Minions BiCrafty Community Facebook Group is always there to help with questions or just generally cheer you on!

To find out about all the make-alongs we do and the free patterns we publish, join our newsletter!

Join our Newsletter

Get Free Pattern Links & Coupons!

>> Become An Insider <<
A smiling person with curly hair and glasses forms a heart shape with their hands. Behind them, the text reads "Marly Bird," "Weekly Newsletter," and "Your BigCrafty Bestie." Sporting a light cardigan, they share the joy of an amigurumi free crochet animal pattern. -Marly Bird
A smiling woman with curly hair and glasses is surrounded by craft tools and a “FAQs” banner, ready to help with projects.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best handmade gift to knit or crochet for Mother’s Day?

Shawls and wraps are the most popular handmade Mother’s Day gifts because they are wearable, practical, and sentimental. A handmade shawl reminds Mom of you every time she wears it. For quicker options, knit or crochet slippers, cowls, and dishcloth spa sets are also wonderful gifts that Mom will actually use.

How long does it take to knit or crochet a Mother’s Day gift?

It depends on the project. A dishcloth or mug cozy can be finished in 2-3 hours. A cowl or hat takes a day or weekend. A full shawl typically takes 2-4 weeks depending on the pattern and your speed. Start with at least 2 weeks before Mother’s Day for most projects.

What yarn should I use for a Mother’s Day gift?

Choose a yarn that feels luxurious and is in your mom’s favorite color. Merino wool, cashmere blends, alpaca, and silk blends all make a gift feel special. For practical items like dishcloths or slippers, cotton or superwash wool works best. The yarn quality is what makes a handmade gift feel truly premium.

What if my mom doesn’t knit or crochet? Will she appreciate a handmade gift?

Absolutely! Non-crafting moms often appreciate handmade gifts EVEN MORE because they understand the time and effort involved. Include a care card explaining the yarn and washing instructions so she feels confident using and caring for it.

Can I knit or crochet a Mother’s Day gift if I’m a beginner?

Yes! Many wonderful Mother’s Day gifts are beginner-friendly. Dishcloths, simple cowls, scarves, and slippers all use basic stitches. A handmade gift from a beginner is EXTRA meaningful because Mom knows you learned a new skill just for her.

What are good last-minute knit or crochet gifts for Mother’s Day?

If you have less than a week, focus on small projects: crochet flowers that never die, knit dishcloths paired with fancy soap, a mug cozy with her favorite tea, or quick coasters. Even a single handmade item paired with a purchased gift shows Mom you care.

Should I knit or crochet a Mother’s Day gift?

Use whichever craft you are most comfortable with! Both knitting and crochet produce beautiful, giftable projects. If Mom has a preference, consider that too… some people prefer the drape of knit fabric while others love the texture of crochet. When in doubt, a shawl works beautifully in either craft.

Woman modeling a pink Tunisian crochet cardigan indoors, highlighting textured stitch pattern; yarn shelves in background.
Make this Mother’s Day one that your MOM will LOVE!

Final Thoughts

Here’s what I know about moms… they don’t want the most expensive gift. They don’t need the trendiest thing. What they want is to feel loved and thought of. And NOTHING says that like something you made with your own two hands.

So pick a pattern, pick a beautiful yarn in her favorite color, and start stitching. Whether it takes you two hours or two weeks… the love in every stitch is what makes it priceless. 💛

Happy Mother’s Day to all the moms out there… including the yarn moms, the fur moms, the plant moms, and every kind of mom in between. You’re all amazing. 🧶💐

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie, Marly Bird

Also on the Blog

Return To Me Boomerang Knit Shawl — Free Easy Cables and Lace Shawl Pattern 🧶

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The Return To Me Boomerang Shawl is a free intermediate knit shawl pattern featuring, easy cable and lace, and a built-in I-cord edge. Worked flat in sport weight merino wool, this asymmetrical boomerang shawl has no essential gauge — just cast on and enjoy the process. Get the free pattern below with a video tutorial link for the cable technique.

Looking for a free knit shawl pattern that’s elegant, wearable, and actually fun to make? The Return To Me Boomerang Shawl is a free intermediate knit pattern featuring easy cables, lace, and a built-in I-cord edge — all worked in a flattering asymmetrical shape that stays on your shoulders.

This free boomerang knit shawl pattern is perfect for knitters ready to level up their skills while creating a beautiful accessory you’ll actually wear (or gift!).

Hey, bestie 💛

Some patterns just have a name that stops you in your tracks.

Return To Me.

There’s something almost poetic about that… and I think it describes exactly what a handmade shawl does. Every time someone wraps it around their shoulders, they return to the person who made it. To that love, stitched in with every row.

Which is exactly why this is one of my favorite patterns to make as a gift. 💛

The Return To Me Boomerang Shawl features a combination of easy cables and lace with a built-in I-cord edge that gives it a beautifully polished finish. The boomerang shape drapes perfectly and sits comfortably on the shoulders… no sliding off, no awkward angles. Just a gorgeous, wearable shawl that gets compliments every time.

And the best part? Gauge doesn’t matter. Cast on, follow the pattern, and enjoy the ride. 🧶

This post contains affiliate links. Purchasing through these links helps support this site at no additional cost to you. Thank you from the bottom of my yarn-loving heart!

Return to Me Boomerang Knit Shawl Pattern by Marly Bird in sport weight merino yarn with cable and lace detail

What You Will Love About This Pattern 💖

  • 🧶 No essential gauge — cast on and go. This is one of those rare patterns where you can use the needle size that feels right for your yarn without stressing about gauge.
  • 🧶 Boomerang shape — the asymmetrical crescent drapes beautifully on any body. It stays put on the shoulders and wraps elegantly around the neck.
  • 🧶 Cables + lace combo — two of the most beautiful knitting techniques, working together in one shawl. The cables grow organically as you work, and the lace creates an airy, open feel alongside them.
  • 🧶 Built-in I-cord edge — no picking up stitches and adding an edging later. The I-cord border is worked as you go, giving you a polished, professional finish right off the needles.
  • 🧶 Luxury yarn — Destination Yarn Trinket in 100% Merino is one of those yarns you want to pet for hours. Soft, bouncy, and absolutely gorgeous in the hand.
  • 🧶 Perfect gift shawl — the name alone makes this special. Make it for yourself, for Mom, for a friend… whoever receives this will feel it.
Marly Bird wears a green and white boomerang knit shawl, showing stitch detail in three poses; yarn shelves in background.

Quick Pattern Overview

  • 🧶 Craft: Knit
  • 📊 Skill Level: Intermediate
  • 📐 Finished Size: 36″ [91.5 cm] across top edge × 61″ [155 cm] along right side edge
  • 🧵 Yarn: Destination Yarn Trinket (100% Merino, 328 yds / 300 m, sport weight #2) — 2 skeins
  • 🪡 Needles: US 5 [3.75 mm], 36″ circular used as straight needle
  • 📐 Gauge: Rows 1–50 = 8″ × 9″ — not essential for this project
  • 🔨 Construction: Worked flat, cast on 6 sts, increases along one edge create the boomerang shape
  • ✨ Techniques: Cables (C2B, C2F), lace (yarn overs, k2tog, ssk), I-cord edging, M1L/M1R increases
  • 📌 Notions: Blocking mat and pins, tapestry needle, cable needle

Is This Shawl Right for You? 🧶

  • ✔ You want a free knit shawl pattern that looks impressive
  • ✔ You’re ready to try simple cables and lace
  • ✔ You love projects that don’t require strict gauge
  • ✔ You want a gift-worthy handmade piece
Line drawing of a curved, boomerang asymmetrical shawl shape with three sides; arrows show side lengths and height for boomerang shawl planning.
Crescent-shaped green and white shawl with cable and lace stitches displayed flat, textured stitches visible.

What Is a Boomerang Shawl?

If you haven’t made a boomerang shawl before… you’re in for a treat.

A boomerang (or sometimes referred to as a crescent) shawl is an asymmetrical shawl shape where increases are worked along one edge only, rather than at both ends. This creates a curved shape — wide at the top and tapering toward one end — that drapes naturally across the shoulders like it was made for your body. (Because, well… it kind of was.)

A boomerang knit shawl is best for intermediate knitters who are comfortable with basic cable and lace techniques and want a wearable, elegant accessory that knits up differently from a traditional triangle shawl.

The boomerang shape is one of those “whoa, how did you DO that?” silhouettes. Simple construction, dramatic effect. 💛

If you love this shape, you’ll also enjoy exploring other styles in my collection of free knit shawl patterns.

A woman in glasses shows a mannequin with a knitted wrap; yarn, needles, and swirling patterns decorate the crafting scene.

Explore More Knit Shawl Shapes & Patterns 🧶

If you love this boomerang shawl, you’re going to love exploring other knit shawl shapes too! Each shape creates a completely different look and knitting experience.

  • ✨ Boomerang Shawls (like this one) — asymmetrical, curved, and easy to wear
  • ✨ Triangle Shawls — classic and versatile for layering
  • ✨ Crescent Shawls — soft curves with elegant drape
  • ✨ Rectangular Wraps — simple, relaxing knitting projects

👉 Want more inspiration and patterns? Explore my full collection of free knit shawl patterns and discover your next favorite project.

✨ Designer Tip: If you’re new to shawls, don’t overthink it. This pattern grows gradually, so you’ll build confidence as you go — one row at a time.

About the Yarn

I used Destination Yarn Trinket in colorway Andasibe-Mantadia National Park… and if you’ve ever wanted an excuse to treat yourself to truly beautiful yarn, this is it.

Trinket is 100% Merino wool at sport weight — soft, bouncy, with beautiful stitch definition that makes both the cables and the lace pop. The colorway is rich and earthy, inspired by the lush rainforest of Madagascar. Every skein of Destination Yarn tells a story.

✨ Designer Tip: Because gauge isn’t essential for this shawl, this is a great pattern to use for a skein of yarn you’ve been saving. Any sport weight you love will work beautifully. Just make sure you have at least 600 yards total.

A woman models a green lace knit shawl; nearby, yarn and the finished boomerang-shaped shawl rest in a basket.

Video Tutorial

New to cables? Don’t let them intimidate you — cables are much easier than they look, and this video will show you exactly how to work them:

✨ Designer Tip: The cables in this pattern are mini 2-stitch cables (C2B and C2F). They’re the smallest cable you can make, which means they work up quickly AND they’re a perfect introduction to cabling if you’ve never done it before. By row 20 you’ll have the rhythm and won’t even need to think about it.

Marly Bird models a free knit boomerang shawl pattern. It is textured green crocheted shawl in a cozy room with books and plants, highlighting the shawl’s drape and stitch detail.

Build Your Skills with This Shawl 🧶

This isn’t just a beautiful shawl — it’s a skill-building project that helps you grow as a knitter.

  • ✔ Learn small, approachable cables (C2B & C2F)
  • ✔ Practice lace shaping with yarn overs and decreases
  • ✔ Master I-cord edging for a polished finish
  • ✔ Understand asymmetrical shawl construction

If you love learning techniques like this, you’ll also enjoy events like the Tournament of Stitches, where we focus on building skills one step at a time.

Love the Pattern but Want an Ad-Free PDF?

Want a printable version with no ads, easy-to-read formatting, and bonus tips? The premium PDF version of this pattern will be available soon on Etsy, Ravelry, and Shopify.

💡 Stay tuned — or join the Marly Bird Insider list so you don’t miss the launch!

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A smiling person with curly hair and glasses forms a heart shape with their hands. Behind them, the text reads "Marly Bird," "Weekly Newsletter," and "Your BigCrafty Bestie." Sporting a light cardigan, they share the joy of an amigurumi free crochet animal pattern. -Marly Bird
A green and white knit boomerang shawl shown worn in three ways, highlighting stitch detail and soft drape. free knit boomerang shawl pattern

Return To Me Boomerang Shawl — Free Pattern Details

Skill Level

Intermediate

Measurements

Shawl measures 36″ [91.5 cm] across top edge and 61″ [155 cm] along right side edge.
All edges of this shawl will curve. Exact measurements are not essential.

Gauge

Rows 1–50 = 8″ [20.5 cm] across top edge and 9″ [23 cm] along right side edge.
Gauge is not essential for this item.

Materials

Yarn: Destination Yarn Trinket (100% Merino wool, 328 yds / 300 m, 3½ oz/100 g, CYCA #2 sport)
2 skeins: Andasibe-Mantadia National Park

Alternative Yarn Choices

Needles: US 5 [3.75 mm] 32″ [81 cm] or longer circular needle, to be used as a straight needle.

Notions: Blocking mat and pins, tapestry needle, cable needle

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Abbreviations

  • C2B – Cable 2 Back (see Special Stitches)
  • C2F – Cable 2 Front (see Special Stitches)
  • K – Knit
  • K2tog – Knit 2 together
  • M1L – Make 1 Left (see Special Stitches)
  • M1R – Make 1 Right (see Special Stitches)
  • P – Purl
  • Ssk – Slip, Slip Knit (see Special Stitches)
  • St(s) – Stitch(es)
  • Wyif – With Yarn in Front
  • Yo – Yarn Over

Special Stitches

⭐️ Cable 2 Back (C2B): Slip 1 st onto cable needle and hold in back, k1 from left hand needle, k1 from cable needle.

⭐️ Cable 2 Front (C2F): Slip 1 st onto cable needle and hold in front, k1 from left hand needle, k1 from cable needle.

⭐️ Make 1 Left (M1L): Increase 1 st by picking up the strand between sts, twisting it to the left and forming a loop, and knitting (or purling) it.

⭐️ Make 1 Right (M1R): Increase 1 st by picking up the strand between sts, twisting it to the right and forming a loop, and knitting (or purling) it.

⭐️ Slip, Slip, Knit (Ssk): Slip 2 sts knitwise, one at a time, onto right needle, insert tip of left needle into front loops of both sts, and knit them together through the back loop.

Chart

Chart shows 34-row, 23-column cable and lace shawl pattern; orange marks rows 28–34. Stitch key for M1R/M1L included.

Special Techniques

I-Cord Bind-off: * K2, k2tog, sl 3 sts onto left needle wyib; repeat from * until 3 sts remain, k3tog. Fasten off.

Notes

  • This shawl is worked flat from one end to the other, beginning with just a few stitches and gradually increasing along one edge to create the signature boomerang shape.
  • The first 3 stitches of every row form a built-in I-cord edge. These stitches are worked consistently throughout the pattern to create a smooth, polished border without needing to pick up stitches later.
  • Increases are worked on the same edge of the shawl to create the asymmetrical shape. As you continue repeating the pattern, the shawl will naturally grow longer and wider along one side.
  • The main stitch pattern is established in Rows 27–34. Once you reach this section, you will repeat these rows multiple times to build the body of the shawl.
  • Because gauge is not essential for this project, your finished size may vary slightly depending on your yarn and needle choice. This will not affect the overall look or wearability of the shawl.
  • This pattern combines cables and lace. The lace sections will open up significantly during blocking, while the cables will relax and become more defined.
  • Stitch counts are provided at key points to help you stay on track. It is helpful to check your stitch count periodically, especially after increase rows.
  • Read through the pattern and chart before beginning to familiarize yourself with the construction and stitch flow.
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Return to Me Boomerang Knit Shawl Pattern

Cast on 6 sts.
Setup row 1 (RS): K3, sl 3 wyif.
Setup row 2: K3, sl 3 wyif.

Begin Chart:

Note: Chart does not show 3 sts at each edge used for I-cord edging.

Row 1: K3, M1L, sl 3 wyif — 7 sts.
Row 2: K3, p1, sl 3 wyif.
Row 3: K3, M1L, k1, sl 3 wyif — 8 sts.
Row 4: K3, p2, sl 3 wyif.
Row 5: K4, M1L, k1, sl 3 wyif — 9 sts.
Row 6: K3, p3, sl 3 wyif.
Row 7: K3, ssk, M1L twice, k1, sl 3 wyif — 10 sts.
Row 8: K3, p4, sl 3 wyif.
Row 9: K4, ssk, M1L twice, k1, sl 3 wyif — 11 sts.
Row 10: K3, p5, sl 3 wyif.
Row 11: K4, ssk, k1, M1L twice, K1, sl 3 wyif — 12 sts.
Row 12: K3, p6, sl 3 wyif.
Row 13: K4, ssk, k1, M1L twice, K2, sl 3 wyif — 13 sts.
Row 14: K3, p2, k2, p3, sl 3 wyif.
Row 15: K4, ssk, p2, M1L twice, p1, k1, sl 3 wyif — 14 sts.
Row 16: K3, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, sl 3 wyif.
Row 17: K4, ssk, k2tog, yo twice, ssk, M1R twice, k1, sl 3 wyif — 15 sts.
Row 18: K3, p1, k1, p2, k1, p4, sl 3 wyif.
Row 19: K4, ssk, p2, C2B, p1, M1R twice, k1, sl 3 wyif — 16 sts.
Row 20: K3, [p2, k2] twice, p2, sl 3 wyif.
Row 21: K4, [ssk, k2tog, yo twice] twice, M1L, k1, sl 3 wyif — 17 sts.
Row 22: K3, p2, k1, p3, k1, p4, sl 3 wyif.
Row 23: K4, ssk, p2, C2F, p2, M1L twice, p1, k1, sl 3 wyif — 18 sts.
Row 24: K3, p1, k1, [p2, k2] twice, p2, sl 3 wyif.
Row 25: K4, [ssk, k2tog, yo twice] twice, ssk, M1R twice, k1, sl 3 wyif — 19 sts.
Row 26: K3, p1, k1, p2, k1, p3, k1, p4, sl 3 wyif.
Row 27: K4, ssk, * p2, C2B; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p1, M1R twice, k1, sl 3 wyif — 20 sts.
Row 28: K3, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p2, sl 3 wyif.
Row 29: K4, * ssk, k2tog, yo twice; repeat from * to last 4 sts, M1L, k1, sl 3 wyif — 21 sts.
Row 30: K3, p2, * k1, p3; repeat from * to last 4 sts, p1, sl 3 wyif.
Row 31: K4, ssk, p2, * C2F, p2; repeat from * to last 5 sts, M1L twice, p1, k1, sl 3 wyif — 22 sts.
Row 32: K3, p1, k1, *p2, k2; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p2, sl 3 wyif.
Row 33: K4, * ssk, k2tog, yo twice; repeat from * to last 6 sts, ssk, M1R twice, k1, sl 3 wyif — 23 sts.
Row 34: K3, p1, k1, p2, * k1, p3; repeat from * to last 4 sts, p1, sl 3 wyif.

Repeat Rows 27–34 37 more times — 171 sts.

✨ Designer Tip: The shawl can be made larger by repeating these rows more than 37 more times. But remember this will require more yarn.

Repeat Rows 27–32 only once more — 174 sts.

Finishing

Bind off all sts loosely using I-cord bind-off.

Block shawl to measurements.

Weave in all loose ends.

Blocking Tips for This Shawl

Because all edges of this shawl naturally curve, blocking is where the magic happens. Wet blocking will fully open up the lace sections, relax the cables, and let the boomerang shape settle into its final gorgeous form.

Here’s how to wet block this shawl:

  1. Soak: Submerge in lukewarm water with a gentle wool wash for 15-20 minutes.
  2. Remove gently: Support the full weight of the shawl when lifting. Press out water — never wring or twist.
  3. Towel roll: Lay flat on a towel, roll burrito-style to remove excess moisture.
  4. Pin to shape: Lay on blocking mats and pin along the curved edges, gently stretching to finished measurements. Use plenty of pins along the I-cord edge.
  5. Dry completely: Allow to air dry fully before unpinning. A fan speeds the process.

✨ Designer Tip: The I-cord edge is your guide for blocking the curved edges. Pin along the cord itself and the shawl will hold its shape beautifully.

Light green crochet shawl with cable lace pattern, draped on a dress form; intricate texture shown against a cream backdrop.

More Shawl Patterns You’ll Love

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Frequently Asked Questions

What is a boomerang shawl?

A boomerang shawl (also called a crescent shawl) is an asymmetrical shawl shape created by increasing along one edge only. This creates a curved shape that drapes naturally across the shoulders. Unlike a traditional triangle shawl, a boomerang shawl stays put on your shoulders and wraps comfortably around the neck.

Do I need to know how to cable to make this shawl?

You need basic cable skills, but the cables in this pattern are mini 2-stitch cables which are the smallest and easiest cables you can make. If you’ve never cabled before, watch the video tutorial linked in the pattern. By row 20 you’ll have the rhythm down and won’t need to think about it.

Do I really not need to check gauge?

That’s right. Because shawls don’t need to fit a specific body measurement the way a sweater does, gauge is not essential here. Your finished shawl may be slightly larger or smaller than the stated dimensions, but it will still drape beautifully. Use the needle size that feels comfortable with your chosen yarn.

Can I use a different yarn than Destination Yarn Trinket?

Yes! Any sport weight yarn with approximately 600+ yards will work. Look for a yarn with good stitch definition so the cables and lace show up clearly. Merino wool, merino blends, and wool-silk blends all work beautifully for lace and cable shawls.

What is an I-cord bind-off?

An I-cord bind-off creates a smooth, rounded, cord-like edge as you bind off your stitches. It gives a professional finished look and is worked as follows: K2, k2tog, slip 3 sts back to left needle; repeat until 3 sts remain, then k3tog. The full instructions are in the pattern above.

Is this a good pattern to give as a gift?

This is one of the most beautiful gift shawls I have designed. The combination of cables and lace looks impressive, the boomerang shape is universally flattering, and the name… Return To Me… says everything. It is the kind of gift someone keeps forever. Check out the Mother’s Day Gift Guide for more gift ideas!

How long does it take to knit this shawl?

Most knitters can complete this shawl in 1–2 weeks depending on how often they knit. Because the pattern has a rhythmic repeat, it’s a great project to work on in the evenings or while relaxing.

Is this shawl beginner-friendly?

This pattern is best suited for advanced beginners to intermediate knitters. If you’re comfortable with basic stitches and ready to try simple cables and lace, you can absolutely make this shawl — especially with the included video tutorial for extra support.

Can I make this shawl larger or smaller?

Yes! You can easily customize the size by repeating the pattern rows more or fewer times. Keep in mind that making a larger shawl will require additional yarn, while a smaller version will use less.

What is the best yarn fiber for a knit shawl like this?

Wool and wool blends are ideal because they block beautifully and help the stitches hold their shape. Merino wool, wool-silk blends, and even alpaca blends are great choices depending on how much drape or structure you want in your finished shawl.

A green, boomerang-shaped knit shawl with visible stitch texture drapes over a woman in a colorful, cozy room.

💖 Love This Pattern? Save It for Later!

If you’re planning to make the Return To Me Boomerang Shawl, don’t forget to save it so you can find it later!

  • 👉 Favorite it on Ravelry
  • 👉 Add it to your queue
  • 👉 Share your finished shawl with me!

I LOVE seeing your projects — tag me on Instagram @themarlybird or share inside Marly’s Minions: Marly Bird BiCrafty Community 💛

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Final Thoughts

I don’t take pattern names lightly. And “Return To Me” wasn’t chosen casually.

Every time I knit something for someone I love, I think about that. That a handmade piece carries something of the maker in every stitch. That when the person wraps it around their shoulders, they feel it… the hours, the care, the love.

Return to me.

I hope this shawl does that for you and whoever you make it for. 💛🧶

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

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Free Cable Knit Cowl Pattern – Fairhope Cable Knit Cowl by Marly Bird 🧶✨

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If you love the look of cable knitting but don’t want to commit to an entire sweater, the Fairhope Cable Knit Cowl might just be your perfect project. This free cable knit cowl pattern combines bold, braided cables with cozy functionality for an accessory that feels timeless, wearable, and deeply satisfying to knit.

Woman models a blue cable knit cowl; alongside, the cowl is shown flat to display stitch texture and detail.

Designed to showcase the beauty of cables without overwhelming the knitter, this cowl is warm without being bulky and elegant without being fussy. Whether you’re expanding your cable skills or simply craving a classic winter knit, Fairhope delivers style and substance in every stitch.

Quick Pattern Snapshot 🧵

  • Project Type: Knit Cowl
  • Construction: Knit in the round
  • Skill Level: Adventurous Beginner / Intermediate
  • Yarn Weight: Bulky
  • Why You’ll Love It: Bold cables, cozy fabric, and a polished finished look

This is the kind of project that feels impressive on your needles—but is absolutely doable with the right guidance (and yes, video support is included 😉).

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What You’ll Love About the Fairhope Cable Knit Cowl 💖

  • Timeless Cable Design: Bold, braided cables create a rich texture that never goes out of style and beautifully highlights your knitting skills.
  • Warmth Without Bulk: The plush fabric hugs your neck comfortably while still draping nicely.
  • Versatile Style: Dress it up with a tailored coat or wear it casually with your favorite sweater—this cowl fits right in.
  • Satisfying Knit: If you enjoy the rhythm of cables, this project is relaxing, engaging, and rewarding from cast-on to bind-off.
  • Gift-Worthy Finish: A handmade cowl like this makes a thoughtful, practical gift knitters are proud to give.

✨ Designer Tip: If you’re new to cables, take your time with the first repeat. Once your hands learn the rhythm, everything clicks into place.

“This is the kind of cable knit project that looks intricate and impressive—but feels approachable and fun while you’re making it.”

Marly Bird

What Makes the Fairhope Cable Knit Cowl Special

The Fairhope Cowl stands out thanks to its thoughtfully balanced design. The cable panels are bold without being overwhelming, creating strong visual impact while remaining easy to read on your needles. Worked in a worsted-to-bulky weight yarn, the finished fabric is soft, warm, and wonderfully squishy.

It’s an accessory you’ll reach for again and again—whether you’re heading out on a cold morning or layering up for a cozy evening.

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Styling the Fairhope Cable Knit Cowl ❄️

This cowl is incredibly versatile. Here are a few favorite ways to wear it:

  • Classic Winter Look: Pair with a structured coat and gloves for a timeless, polished outfit.
  • Cozy Casual: Throw it on over a sweater with jeans and boots for everyday warmth.
  • Statement Texture: Let the cables shine by pairing with neutral or monochrome layers.
  • Work-to-Weekend: From office-ready outfits to relaxed weekend wear, this cowl transitions effortlessly.

No matter how you style it, the Fairhope Cable Knit Cowl adds that unmistakable handmade charm.

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Love This Pattern? Favorite It on Ravelry 💕

Favorite This Pattern on Ravelry - Marly Bird

Adding the Fairhope Cable Knit Cowl to your favorites or queue on Ravelry helps other knitters discover the pattern—and lets me see your beautiful projects too!

Benefits of the Ad-Free PDF Pattern

While the free pattern is available below, the ad-free PDF version offers a smooth, distraction-free experience:

  • Clean, Printable Layout – Perfect for knitting on the go
  • Detailed Instructions – Easy-to-follow formatting
  • Portable Access – Use on your phone, tablet, or print at home
  • Designer Support – Helps keep free patterns coming 💕

If you love a tidy pattern page, the PDF is a great option.

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FAIRHOPE KNIT CABLED COWL PATTERN DETAILS

Designed by Marly Bird

SKILL LEVEL

Adventurous Beginner / Intermediate 

MEASUREMENTS

Finished Measurements

30” around x 9” tall

Gauge 

24 sts = 5″ [12.5 cm] in Cable Panel.

MATERIALS

Yarn

Knit Picks, Swish Bulky  (100% Fine Superwash Merino Wool, 137 yds / 125 m, 3.5 oz / 100 g CYCA #5 bulky) 

2 hanks: #27732 Marine Heather

Needles 

Size US 9 [5.5 mm] 24” [61 cm] long circular needle, or size required for gauge.

Notions 

⭐️ Marly Bird Amazon Storefront ⭐️
Woman models a blue cable knit cowl, showing close-up details of stitches and textured knitting pattern.

ABBREVIATIONS

K – Knit

K2tog – Knit Two Together

P – Purl

P2tog – Purl Two Together

Pm – Place Marker

RS – Right Side

Slm – Slip Marker

St(s) – Stitches

WS – Wrong Side

SPECIAL STITCHES 

M1 (Make 1 Increase): With tip of left needle, pick up the horizontal strand between sts from front to back. Knit this strand through the back loop or leg thus, twisting it into a loop in the process.

CABLE STITCHES 

2/1 RC (2/1 Right Cable): Slip 1 st onto cable needle and hold in back, k2 from left hand needle, k1 from cable needle.

2/1 RPC (2/1 Right Purl Cable): Slip 1 st onto cable needle and hold in back, k2 from left hand needle, p1 from cable needle.

2/1 LC (2/1 Left Cable): Slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in front, k1 from left hand needle, k2 from cable needle.

2/1 LPC (2/1 Left Purl Cable): Slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in front, p1 from left hand needle, k2 from cable needle.

2/2 RC (2/2 Right Cable): Slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in back, k2 from left hand needle, k2 from cable needle.

3/3 RC (3/3 Right Cable): Slip 3 sts onto cable needle and hold in back, k3 from left hand needle, k3 from cable needle.

CABLE PATTERN CHARTS

✨ Cable Charts are Only Available in the ad-free pdf

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VIDEO TUTORIALS

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I’m thrilled to share this amazing pattern with you, many patterns on my blog are absolutely free! I kindly request that you don’t copy and paste or distribute this pattern. Prefer an ad-free experience? Buy a digital PDF pattern for a small fee from one of my online stores for a seamless crafting journey. 

I appreciate your support and readership. You are the reason I can keep doing what I love and sharing it with others. So, thank you from the bottom of my yarn-loving heart! Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links at no cost to you.

FAIRHOPE CABLED COWL PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

PATTERN STITCHES

Seed Stitch

Worked in the ROUND over an even number of sts:

Row 1: * K1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Row 2: * P1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for Seed Stitch in the round.

Cable Panel

Worked in the ROUND over 24 sts:

Round 1: K4, p4, 2/1 RPC, k6, 2/1 LPC, p4.

Round 2: K4, p4, k3, p1, k4, p1, k3, p4.

Round 3: 2/2 RC, p3, 2/1 RC, p1, k1, 2/2 RC, k1, p1, 2/1 LC, p3.

Round 4: K4, p3, k2, p1, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, k2, p3.

Round 5: K4, p2, 2/1 RPC, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, 2/1 LPC, p2.

Round 6: K4, p2, k3, p1, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, k3, p2.

Round 7: 2/2 RC, p1, 2/1 RC, [p1, k1] twice, 2/2 RC, [k1, p1] twice, 2/1 LC, p1.

Round 8: K4, p1, k2, [p1, k1] twice, p1, k4, [p1, k1] twice, p1, k2, p1.

Round 9: K4, p1, 2/1 LPC, p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, 2/1 RPC, p1.

Round 10: K4, p2, k3, p1, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, k3, p2.

Round 11: 2/2 RC, p2, 2/1 LPC, k1, p1, k1, 2/2 RC, k1, p1, k1, 2/1 RPC, p2.

Round 12: K4, p3, k2, p1, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, k2, p3.

Round 13: K4, p3, 2/1 LPC, p1, k6, p1, 2/1 RPC, p3.

Round 14: K4, p4, k3, p1, k4, p1, k3, p4.

Round 15: 2/2 RC, p4, 2/1 LPC, k1, 2/2 RC, k1, 2/1 RPC, p4.

Round 16: K4, p5, k2, p1, k4, p1, k2, p5.

Repeat Rounds 1-16 for Cable Panel in the round.

BEGIN FAIRHOPE KNIT CABLE COWL PATTERN HERE

Bottom Edging

Cast on 120 sts.

Join round being careful to not twist cast-on edge, and mark first st.

Work 5 rounds in Seed Stitch.

Next Round (inc round): * M1, work 1 st in established Seed st, M1, work 6 sts in established Seed st, M1, work 8 sts in established Seed st, M1, work 5 sts in established Seed st, pm; repeat from * 5 more times – 144 sts.

Note: Be sure that the beginning of round marker is a different color or design than the other five markers which will be used to separate the Cable Panels.

Establish Cable Panels

Next round: * Work Row 1 of the Cable Panel for your chosen size across next 24 sts, slm; repeat from * 5 more times.

Continue working around the six established and marked Cable Panels until a total of 3 Cable Panel repeats ending after a round 15. 

Top Edging

Next Round (dec round): * K2tog, p2tog, work 5 sts in established Seed st, p2tog, work 7 sts in established Seed st, p2tog, work 4 sts in established Seed st, pm; repeat from * 5 more times – 120 sts.

Work 5 rounds in Seed Stitch. 

Bind Off Knitwise loosely

FINISHING

Weave in all loose ends.

A person models a yellow, hand-knit cable hat with a white pom-pom and denim jacket; textured stitches are visible.
A knitted blue coffee cup sleeve with neat stitches and button detail wraps a cup, displayed on a green table outdoors.
Woman models a hand-crocheted purple headband with textured stitches, standing indoors near craft supplies.
Woman models a red Tunisian crochet short-sleeve sweater, showing textured stitches and relaxed fit, outdoors by tall grass.
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A woman models the Fairhope Cable Knit Cowl sweater, showing off its textured cable stitch and cozy fit in soft indoor lighting.
Colorful cable knit cowl with textured panels in pink, cream, blue, green, and red worn over a dark denim jacket.
Knit leggings with visible stitch texture worn by a person relaxing on a couch, showing how the garment fits and drapes.

More Cozy Cable Knit Patterns to Explore

If you love the Fairhope Cable Knit Cowl, here are more free knitting patterns you won’t want to miss:

Each pattern offers a cozy, stylish way to celebrate the joy of knitting this season!

Woman wears a blue cable knit cowl with textured stitch detail, standing among colorful fabrics and craft supplies in a bright room.

Frequently Asked Questions – Fairhope Cable Knit Cowl 🧶

Is the Fairhope Cable Knit Cowl pattern free?
Yes! The full pattern is available for free on MarlyBird.com, with an optional ad-free PDF.

Is this a good first cable knitting project?
It’s great for adventurous beginners who are ready to try cables, especially with the included video tutorials.

Is the cowl knit in the round?
Yes, the Fairhope Cowl is worked in the round for a seamless finish.

Do I need a cable needle?
A cable needle is recommended, but a tutorial for cabling without a cable needle is included if you want to try it.

Can I substitute yarn?
Yes! Look for bulky yarns with good stitch definition to show off the cables.

How snug is the finished fit?
The cowl is designed to sit comfortably around the neck without feeling tight or restrictive.

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Share Your Fairhope Cable Knit Cowl 💕

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Happy knitting—and stay cozy! 🧶✨

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

A cartoon avatar of a person with glasses and a brown bun smiles warmly. Their green shirt and black jacket add a stylish touch, while colorful hearts surround them like loving temperature blankets, stitching together an aura of love and positivity. -Marly Bird

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

A cartoon avatar of a person with glasses and a brown bun smiles warmly. Their green shirt and black jacket add a stylish touch, while colorful hearts surround them like loving temperature blankets, stitching together an aura of love and positivity. -Marly Bird

Stay Cozy with the Cinnamon Dreams Crochet Fingerless Mittens: Free Pattern & FAQs

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Stay cozy and stylish even on chilly days with these fun and easy fingerless mittens! The Cinnamon Dreams Crochet Fingerless Mittens are a free pattern that balances texture and warmth — perfect for gifting, stash-busting mini skeins, or your next cozy project this season.

A collage showcasing beginner crochet fingerless mittens in blue and gray alongside two balls of yarn and a "First Fall Weekends" crochet-along poster. Dive into the cozy vibes with this free pattern, perfect for crafting your own Cinnamon Dreams this season. -Marly Bird

Ready for a new favorite fall accessory? The Cinnamon Dreams Crochet Fingerless Mittens are here to keep your hands warm without sacrificing style. Whether you’re working at your computer or enjoying a cup of tea outside, these mittens are perfect for keeping your fingers free while staying warm.

This blog post will guide you through the full and free crochet pattern (once you login) and answer some of the most common questions about crochet fingerless mittens, so you’re all set to start stitching!

If you love these mosaic fingerless mittens you will love the matching hat pattern named Autumn Breezes Crochet Mosaic Hat. Or, you can learn more about mosaic stitches in the Camp Colorwork course (this is a must have!)

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. To learn more please visit my privacy policy here💖

Quick Pattern Overview

The Cinnamon Dreams Crochet Fingerless Mittens are a cozy, textured accessory designed to keep your hands warm while still letting you text, type, and stitch with ease. This free crochet pattern works up quickly and is perfect for gift-making, stash-busting, or adding a handmade touch to your everyday wardrobe.

In this post, you’ll learn:

  • Why fingerless mittens are such a great portable crochet project
  • Who this fingerless mitten pattern is best suited for
  • What yarns work well for warmth and stretch
  • How the textured stitch pattern adds both style and function

Why You’ll Love These Mittens 🧶

  • Quick and Easy: These mittens work up fast, making them a perfect weekend project.
  • Functional and Stylish: Keep your hands warm while still having full finger mobility—perfect for texting, typing, or just keeping cozy.
  • Beginner-Friendly Mosaic Crochet: Even if you’re new to mosaic crochet, this pattern is designed to ease you into the technique.
  • Great first textured accessory project
  • Perfect for using mini skeins or scrap yarn
  • Works up quickly (ideal for gifts)
  • Stylish enough for everyday wear
Gray and teal crochet mosaic fingerless mittens shown with close-up stitch detail and pattern pages on a gray background.
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“Textured stitch, cozy fit, and quick results — these mitts are the perfect accessory project for chilly days or gifting.”

On the table, alongside two balls of Brava Tweed yarn in gray and teal, lie knitted fingerless gloves, vibrant crochet hooks, stitch markers, a red candle, and a decorative floral arrangement. A "Cinnamon Dreams" free pattern might inspire your next project. -Marly Bird

Yarn & Materials for the Cinnamon Dreams Mittens

For the Cinnamon Dreams Crochet Fingerless Mittens, choosing the right yarn makes all the difference in comfort, warmth, and wearability. You’ll want a yarn that provides a bit of stretch, holds its shape, and feels good against the skin.

Worsted weight yarns are a great choice for this pattern, especially wool or wool-blend yarns that offer warmth without feeling bulky. If you’re working from your stash, this pattern is also a wonderful way to use up mini skeins or leftover yarn from previous projects — just be sure you have enough yardage for a full pair.

When substituting yarns, keep these tips in mind:

  • Choose fibers with good elasticity so the mittens don’t stretch out over time
  • Wool or wool blends provide the best warmth and recovery
  • Acrylic blends can work well for easy-care gifts
  • Smooth yarns help the textured stitch pattern really shine

This flexibility makes the Cinnamon Dreams mittens an excellent option whether you’re shopping your stash or picking out something special.

For these mittens, we used one of our favorite acrylic worsted weight yarns from WeCrochet / Knit Picks (did you know they are the same company?)

Suggested Yarn:

  • WeCrochet, Brava Tweed (97% Premium Acrylic/ 3% Viscose, 218 yds / 200 m, 3.5 oz/ 100 g, CYCA# 4 worsted)
    • Color A (main color): #653734 Chimney Sweep, 1 ball
    • Color B (accent color): #61306 Pumpkin Bread, 1 ball 

Other Supplies we used for this project include:

Crochet fingerless mittens in gray and teal with a mosaic pattern are artfully displayed. Titled "Cinnamon Dreams," these cozy creations rest beside a red container brimming with wooden beads. A charming bird doodle graces the corner, hinting at the delightful free pattern available. -Marly Bird

This free crochet fingerless mittens pattern is a quick, cozy accessory project that’s perfect for gift-making and stash-busting.

FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions for Crochet Fingerless Mittens

What skill level is this crochet fingerless mitten pattern best for?
This pattern is great for confident beginners who are comfortable with basic crochet stitches and ready to try simple texture.

How long does it take to crochet a pair of fingerless mittens?
Most crocheters can complete a pair in just a few hours, making this an ideal weekend or last-minute gift project.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?
Yes, but changing yarn weight will affect sizing and fabric density. Worsted weight yarn gives the best balance of warmth and fit.

Are these mittens good for using mini skeins or scrap yarn?
Absolutely! This pattern is a fantastic stash-busting project and works especially well with leftover yarn or mini skeins.

Will the mittens stretch out with wear?
Using a yarn with good elasticity, such as wool or a wool blend, helps the mittens keep their shape over time.

Can I adjust the size of the mittens?
Yes. You can adjust hook size or stitch count slightly to customize the fit for larger or smaller hands.

Are fingerless mittens warm enough for cold weather?
Fingerless mittens keep your hands warm while allowing finger movement, making them perfect for cool days, indoor wear, or layering with gloves.

Is this a good crochet project to take on the go?
Yes! Fingerless mittens are compact and portable, making them a great project for travel, waiting rooms, or crafting on the move.

What stitch creates the textured look in these mittens?
The textured stitch pattern adds visual interest while creating a cozy, flexible fabric that’s comfortable to wear.

Customizing Your Cinnamon Dreams Mittens

  • Make a Tighter Ribbed Cuff: Want a snugger fit around your wrist? You can crochet rounds of slip stitch crochet ribbing instead of the single crochet ribbing. The difference is you will need to work to the appropriate length to accommodate both the circumference of the wrist and the number of stitches needed for the hand stitch count. Video for Slip Stitch Crochet Ribbing.
  • Thumb Extension: You can easily extend the thumb section to make a completely covered thumb. Just work a round of decreases when the thumb reaches the desired length. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail that can be woven around the stitches and pulled closed like a drawstring. Weave in the tail to the inside of the mitt.
  • Turn the Fingerless Mitten Into a Mitten: Maintaining the color sequence, work the mitts to about an inch from the end of the fingers. Then work a few decrease rounds to get the stitch count to as few as possible. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail that can be woven around the stitches and pulled closed like a drawstring. Weave in the tail to the inside of the mitt.
  • Color Customization: Play around with color combinations! Make a few pairs with different contrasting colors for variety in your wardrobe.

More Crochet Mosaic Patterns

If you are in love with mosaic patterns then you need to look at these other crochet patterns.

Maybe you would like to get more mosaic crochet help. Here is an amazing blog post to help guide your journey in mosaic crochet work.

Or, maybe you want to learn much more colorwork than just mosaic crochet. Then you need to look at Camp Colorwork!

Camp Colorwork crochet and knitting course by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula
Camp Colorwork crochet and knitting course by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula

Get the Free Cinnamon Dreams Mittens Pattern Below

Ready to start crocheting? Find the information for the Cinnamon Dreams Crochet Fingerless Mittens below, including the free, video, chart and instructions. To view the pattern, a subscription to the Marly Bird website via GROW is required. It is a free subscription.

Displayed on wooden holders atop a round woven tray, the Crochet Fingerless Mittens showcase intricate blue and gray geometric patterns. The text reads "Cinnamon Dreams: Free Pattern + Video Tutorial," inviting you to create your own cozy masterpiece. -Marly Bird

CINNAMON DREAMS CROCHET MOSAIC FINGERLESS MITTENS

Designed by Marly Bird

SKILL LEVEL

Adventurous Beginner

MEASUREMENTS

To Fit Size

Child (Small, Medium, Large) 

Sample shown in Child

Finished Measurements

To Fit SizeChildSmallMediumLarge
Finished Hand Circumference (approx) Inches77.589
Finished Hand Circumference cm181920.523
Finished Height – Not Including CuffInches44.55.55.5
Finished Height – Not Including Cuffcm1011.51414

Gauge 

16 sc blo x 25 rounds = 5” [12.5 cm] x  4” [10 cm] in pattern stitch in the round; use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

MATERIALS

Crochet Yarn 

WeCrochet, Brava Tweed (97% Premium Acrylic/ 3% Viscose, 218 yds / 200 m, 3.5 oz/ 100 g, CYCA# 4 worsted)

Color A: #653734 Chimney Sweep, 1 ball
Color B: #61306 Pumpkin Bread, 1 ball 

Crochet Hooks

Size H/8 [5 mm] and I/9 [5.5 mm]

Notions 

Stitch markers, tapestry needle, leather tags, leather rivets

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – Chain(s) 

BLO – Back Loop Only

Mosaic Dc – Mosaic Double Crochet 

FLO – Front Loop Only

PM – Place Marker

RS – Right Side 

Sc – Single Crochet

Sc2tog – Single Crochet Two Stitches Together

Sl st – Slip Stitch

St(s) – Stitch(es)WS – Wrong Side

Favorite This Pattern on Ravelry - Marly Bird

SPECIAL STITCHES 

⭐Back Loop Only (blo): This is the furthest loop from you of the top 2 loops of the stitch indicated, regardless if you are on the RS or WS.

⭐️Chain (Ch): With slip knot or free loop on hook, yarn over hook and pull through loop on hook.

⭐️Edge Stitch: Insert hook into the left leg of of the previous st (located under the top two loops), insert hook into back loop of next st on project, yarn over and pull up a loop then pull that loop through 1 loop on hook, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops on hook. See video tutorial for assistance

⭐️Front Loop Only (flo): This is the closest loop to you of the top 2 loops of the stitch indicated, regardless if you are on the RS or WS.

⭐️Invisible join: This is created by removing the free loop from hook, thread hook from front to back in first st, place free loop on hook and draw through stitch. 

⭐️Single Crochet (Sc): Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook.

⭐️Slip Stitch (Sl st): Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop and draw through loop on hook. 

⭐️Single Crochet Two Together (Sc2tog): *Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop; repeat from * in next stitch indicated, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

⭐️Mosaic Double Crochet (Mosaic-dc): Yarn over hook, insert hook into front loop of st indicated 2 Rounds below, yarn over and pull up a loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice.

MOSAIC STITCH DIAGRAM

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Discover the Cinnamon Dreams crochet stitch chart, perfect for crafting cozy fingerless mittens. This free pattern reveals a grid design with symbols for single crochet in back/front loop and double crochet using colors A and B. Pattern repeat is clearly outlined with row and column numbers for easy reference. -Marly Bird

NOTES

  • Directions are for size Child; changes for sizes (Small, Medium, Large) are in parentheses. When only one number is given then that number applies to all sizes.
  • Cuff of the mitt is worked flat then seamed together before starting on the body of mitten. 
  • Body of the mitt is worked into the long side edge of the cuff as instructed.
  • Body of the mitt is worked in joined rounds. Use a marker to identify the first stitch of each round.  Do not turn at end of each round.
  • Join each round with an invisible join (see special stitches), change to new color while making the chain to start the next round. 
  • Follow the instructions for the right hand or left hand of the size you are making. They are written out individually.
  • Do not cut colors, carry the color up the side of the project.
  • Stitches highlighted in green are part of the thumb gusset. 

VIDEO TUTORIAL

Collage showcasing beginner crochet mosaic fingerless mittens in gray and blue. Featuring yarn balls labeled tweed and wool, a YouTube play button, and a "First Fall Weekends" make-along announcement with a hint of Cinnamon Dreams. Enjoy crafting with this cozy, fall-themed presentation. -Marly Bird

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I’m thrilled to share this amazing pattern with you, many patterns on my blog are absolutely free! I kindly request that you don’t copy and paste or distribute this pattern. Prefer an ad-free experience? Buy a digital PDF pattern for a small fee from one of my online stores for a seamless crafting journey. 

I appreciate your support and readership. You are the reason I can keep doing what I love and sharing it with others. So, thank you from the bottom of my yarn-loving heart! Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links at no cost to you.

Cinnamon Dreams Crochet Mosaic Fingerless Mittens

CUFF

With smaller hook and color A, chain 19 (19, 21. 21)

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn — 18 (18, 20, 20) sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc-blo in each sc across, turn.

Repeat row 2, 26 (28, 30, 34) times — 28 (30, 32, 36) rows

Seaming INSTRUCTIONS

Joining Row: Ch 1, *slip stitch into the backloop of next st and next ch on foundation ch at the same time: repeat from * across, do not turn.

Crochet Mosaic Fingerless Mittens – RIGHT HAND

Turn to begin working on long edge of cuff (around the row ends), with color A ch 1.

Set-up Round (RS): Evenly place 28 (30, 32, 36)  sc along long side of cuff, join to first sc (begin working  in the round), do not turn throughout.

Change to larger hook
Round 1: Ch 1, sc-blo in each sc around, join to first st.
Round 2: With color B, ch 1, sc blo in each sc around, join to first st.
Round 3: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and in each st to end of round, join to first st.

Move to Thumb Gusset Directions for your size.

Crochet Mosaic Fingerless Mittens – CHILD SIZE RIGHT HAND THUMB GUSSET

Round 4: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in next st, place a marker in each st, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 29 sts.
Round 5:  With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st- 31 sts.
Round 6: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 33 sts.
Round 7: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 35 sts.

Round 8: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st – 37 sts.
Round 9: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, ch 1, skip 10 sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 27 sts + 1 ch-1 sp.
Round 10: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, sc in next ch, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st- 28 sts.
Round 11: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st.
Round 12: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 13: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st.
Round 14: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 15: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 16: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st.
Round 17: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st.
Round 18: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 19: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.

Move to Finger Cuff

Crochet Mosaic Fingerless Mittens – SMALL SIZE RIGHT HAND THUMB GUSSET

Round 4: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in next st, place a marker in each st, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 31 sts.
Round 5:  With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st- 33 sts.
Round 6: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 35 sts.
Round 7: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 37 sts.

Round 8: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st – 39 sts.
Round 9: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, move thumb gusset markers up, join to first st- 39 sts.
Round 10: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st- 41 sts.
Round 11: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, ch 1, skip 12 sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st – 29 sts + 1 ch-1 sp.
Round 12: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, sc in next ch, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st – 30 sts.
Round 13: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 14: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 15: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 16: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st.
Round 17: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st.
Round 18: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 19: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.

Round 20: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 21: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 39 sts.

Move to Finger Cuff

Crochet Mosaic Fingerless Mittens – MEDIUM SIZE RIGHT HAND THUMB GUSSET

Round 4: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 5:  With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st.
Round 6: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 7: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, 2 sc blo in next st, place markers in both sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 33 sts.

Round 8: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts,  2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st – 35 sts.
Round 9: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 37 sts.
Round 10: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st- 39 sts.
Round 11: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st – 41 sts.
Round 12: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st – 43 sts.
Round 13: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, move thumb gusset markers up, join to first st – 43 sts.
Round 14: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st – 45 sts.
Round 15: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, move thumb gusset markers up, join to first st- 45 sts.
Round 16: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc in next 2 sts, ch 1, skip 14 sts, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st- 31 sts + 1 ch-1 sp.
Round 17: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, sc in next ch, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st – 32 sts.
Round 18: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 19: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.

Round 20: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 21: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 39 sts.

Round 22: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st.
Round 23: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 24: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 25: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 26: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 27: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 28: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st.
Round 29: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 4 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st.

Move to Finger Cuff

Crochet Mosaic Fingerless Mittens – LARGE SIZE RIGHT HAND THUMB GUSSET

Round 4: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 5:  With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st.
Round 6: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 7: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, 2 sc blo in next st, place markers in both sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 37 sts.

Round 8: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts,  2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st – 39 sts.
Round 9: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 41 sts.
Round 10: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st- 43 sts.
Round 11: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st – 45 sts.
Round 12: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, move thumb gusset markers up, join to first st – 45 sts.
Round 13: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st,  2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st – 47 sts.
Round 14: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  move thumb gusset markers up, join to first st – 47 sts.
Round 15: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 49 sts.
Round 16: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc in next 2 sts, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, move thumb gusset markers up, join to first st- 49 sts.
Round 17: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st – 51 sts.
Round 18: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next 2 sts, ch 1, skip 16 sts, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 35 sts + 1 ch-1 sp.
Round 19: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, sc in next ch, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 36 sts.

Round 20: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 21: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 39 sts.

Round 22: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st.
Round 23: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 24: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 25: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 26: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 27: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 28: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st.
Round 29: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 4 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st.

Move to Finger Cuff

FINGER CUFF

Fasten off color B.

With smaller hook

Round 1: Ch 1, sc in next st, *edge stitch (see special stitches – watch video) in next stitch; repeat from * to end, join to first st. 

Fasten off color A. 

Close-up of a hand crocheting a textured pattern for fingerless mittens using blue and gray yarn. The hand holds a unique, smooth, glass-like blue crochet hook. A blue arrow highlights the stitches, emphasizing the technique from the free pattern "Cinnamon Dreams. -Marly Bird

THUMB

With larger hook and with next color in sequence, join with a sc blo in any sc of the thumb.  

Round 1: Sc blo around the thumb stitches and sc in the remaining loop of the ch, join to first st — 11 (13, 15, 17) sts. 

Round 2: With next color in sequence, ch 1, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.

Round 3: With next color in sequence, ch 1, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.

Child size stop here. Continue to Thumb Cuff.

Round 4: With next color in sequence, ch 1, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.

Small size stop here. Continue to Thumb Cuff.

Round 5: With next color in sequence, ch 1, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.

Round 6: With next color in sequence, ch 1, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.

THUMB CUFF

With smaller hook and same color as last used. 

Round 1: Ch 1, sc in next st, *edge stitch in next stitch; repeat from * to end, join to first st.

FINISHING

Fasten off remaining colors, weave yarn securely to the inside.

Crochet Mosaic Fingerless Mittens – LEFT HAND

Repeat directions for Cuff and Right Hand through Round 3. 

Move to Thumb Gusset Directions for your size.

Crochet Mosaic Fingerless Mittens – CHILD SIZE LEFT HAND THUMB GUSSET

Round 4: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to last 2 sts,  2 sc blo in next st, place a marker in each st, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 29 sts.
Round 5:  With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st,  join to first st- 31 sts.
Round 6: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 33 sts.
Round 7: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 35 sts.

Round 8: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st – 37 sts.
Round 9: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, ch 1, skip 10 sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 27 sts + 1 ch-1 sp.
Round 10: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to ch-1 sp, sc in next ch, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 28 sts.
Round 11: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st.
Round 12: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 13: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st.
Round 14: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 15: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 16: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st.
Round 17: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st.
Round 18: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 19: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.

Move to Finger Cuff

Crochet Mosaic Fingerless Mittens – SMALL SIZE LEFT HAND THUMB GUSSET

Round 4: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to last 2 sts, 2 sc blo in next st, place a marker in each st, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 31 sts.
Round 5:  With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st,  join to first st- 33 sts.
Round 6: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 35 sts.
Round 7: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 37 sts.

Round 8: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st – 39 sts.
Round 9: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, move thumb gusset markers up, join to first st- 39 sts.
Round 10: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 41 sts.
Round 11: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, ch 1, skip 12 sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st – 29 sts + 1 ch-1 sp.
Round 12: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to ch, sc in next ch, sc blo in last st, join to first st – 30 sts.
Round 13: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 14: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 15: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 16: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st.
Round 17: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st.
Round 18: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 19: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.

Round 20: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 21: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 39 sts.

Move to Finger Cuff

Crochet Mosaic Fingerless Mittens – MEDIUM SIZE LEFT HAND THUMB GUSSET

Round 4: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 5:  With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st.
Round 6: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 7: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to last 2 sts, 2 sc blo in next st, place markers in both sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 33 sts.

Round 8: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts,  2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st – 35 sts.
Round 9: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 37 sts.
Round 10: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 39 sts.
Round 11: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st – 41 sts.
Round 12: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st – 43 sts.
Round 13: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, move thumb gusset markers up, join to first st – 43 sts.
Round 14: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more,sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st – 45 sts.
Round 15: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, move thumb gusset markers up, join to first st- 45 sts.
Round 16: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, ch 1, skip 14 sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 31 sts + 1 ch-1 sp.
Round 17: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to ch, sc in next ch, sc blo in last st,  join to first st – 32 sts.
Round 18: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 19: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.

Round 20: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 21: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 39 sts.

Round 22: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st.
Round 23: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 24: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 25: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 26: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 27: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 28: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st.
Round 29: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 4 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st.

Move to Finger Cuff

Crochet Mosaic Fingerless Mittens – LARGE SIZE LEFT HAND THUMB GUSSET

Round 4: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 5:  With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st.
Round 6: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 7: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to last 2 sts, 2 sc blo in next st, place markers in both sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 37 sts.

Round 8: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts,  2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st – 39 sts.
Round 9: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 41 sts.
Round 10: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 43 sts.
Round 11: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st – 45 sts.
Round 12: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, move thumb gusset markers up, join to first st – 45 sts.
Round 13: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker,  2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st – 47 sts.
Round 14: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  move thumb gusset markers up, join to first st – 47 sts.
Round 15: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 49 sts.
Round 16: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc in next 2 sts, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, move thumb gusset markers up, join to first st- 49 sts.
Round 17: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, 2 sc blo in first marked st, move marker to first of these sts, sc blo in each st to next marker, 2 sc blo in second marked st, move marker to second of these sts, sc blo in last st,  join to first st – 51 sts.
Round 18: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to first marker, ch 1, skip 16 sts, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 35 sts + 1 ch-1 sp.
Round 19: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to ch, sc in next ch, sc blo in last st, join to first st- 36 sts.

Round 20: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 21: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st- 39 sts.

Round 22: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st.
Round 23: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 24: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 25: With color A, ch 1, *mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 26: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next st, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 5 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 27: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 2 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.
Round 28: With color B, ch 1, *sc blo in next 3 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 2 sts; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and in each st to end, join to first st.
Round 29: With color A, ch 1, *sc blo in next 4 sts, mosaic dc-flo in next st 2 rounds below, sc blo in next 3 st; repeat from * once more, sc blo in next st and each st to end,  join to first st.

Move to Finger Cuff

FINGER CUFF

Fasten off color B.

With smaller hook

Round 1: Ch 1, sc in next st, *edge stitch (see special stitches – watch video) in next stitch; repeat from * to end, join to first st. 

Fasten off color A. 

Close-up of a hand crocheting a textured pattern for fingerless mittens using blue and gray yarn. The hand holds a unique, smooth, glass-like blue crochet hook. A blue arrow highlights the stitches, emphasizing the technique from the free pattern "Cinnamon Dreams. -Marly Bird

THUMB

With larger hook and with next color in sequence, join with a sc blo in any sc of the thumb.  

Round 1: Sc blo around the thumb stitches and sc in the remaining loop of the ch, join to first st — 11 (13, 15, 17) sts. 

Round 2: With next color in sequence, ch 1, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.

Round 3: With next color in sequence, ch 1, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.

Child size stop here. Continue to Thumb Cuff.

Round 4: With next color in sequence, ch 1, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.

Small size stop here. Continue to Thumb Cuff.

Round 5: With next color in sequence, ch 1, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.

Round 6: With next color in sequence, ch 1, sc blo in next st and each st to end, join to first st.

THUMB CUFF

With smaller hook and same color as last used. 

Round 1: Ch 1, sc in next st, *edge stitch in next stitch; repeat from * to end, join to first st.

FINISHING

Fasten off remaining colors, weave yarn securely to the inside.

Gray and teal crochet fingerless mittens rest elegantly on wooden boards, accompanied by a red candle and wooden beads on a white surface. The charming scene whispers of Cinnamon Dreams, inviting cozy moments. -Marly Bird

Don’t Forget to Share Your Project!
Once your Cinnamon Dreams Mittens are finished, I’d love to see how they turned out! Share your project on Ravelry or tag me on social media with #MarlyMadeMeDoIt

Also, if you are looking for a matching hat pattern, be sure to check out the Autumn Breezes Mosaic Hat

A person smiling and holding handmade crochet hats with mosaic patterns, set against cozy room decor. Text on the image reads "Beginner Crochet Mosaic Hat" and "Introducing First Fall Weekends Make-Along." Discover free patterns and mosaic crochet tips for your creative journey! -Marly Bird

Meta Title: Cinnamon Dreams Crochet Fingerless Mittens – Free Pattern & FAQs

Meta Description: Keep your hands warm and cozy with the Cinnamon Dreams Crochet Fingerless Mittens. Free pattern and FAQs about crochet mittens, yarn choices, and customization.