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Knit Poncho — Free Knitting Pattern (Woobie Travel Poncho)

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The Woobie Knit Poncho is a free knit poncho pattern by Marly Bird, originally designed for the 2019 Turkey Trot Mystery Make-Along and refreshed for Spring Fling 2026. Worked flat from the top down in Caron Latte Cakes #5 bulky cake gradient yarn, then folded and seamed. Adventurous beginner skill level. Sized S/M/L. Cozy enough to wear like a security blanket… but make it knitwear.

If you’ve been wanting to knit your first poncho, or you remember the 2019 Turkey Trot and have always wanted the full pattern in one clean place… this is the post. The original lived as three “clue” pages from the mystery make-along; now the whole thing is right here, refreshed, updated, and standalone.

Woman models a soft, blue-and-white striped knit poncho, showing its drape and textured stitches in three different poses.

Hey, bestie 💛

The Woobie Poncho holds a special place in my design archive. The original ran as a mystery make-along during Thanksgiving week 2019 and the community absolutely fell in love with it. The nickname “Woobie” stuck because it wears like a security blanket you can leave the house in. Cozy. Familiar. The thing you reach for when you want comfort but you also have to be a person in public.

What you’re getting today is the fully refreshed pattern… same beloved design, updated formatting, new photos, and our current standard layout. The construction is unchanged. The yarn is unchanged. It’s just the cleanest, easiest-to-follow version of the Woobie Poncho I’ve ever published.

Let’s get into it.

*This post contains affiliate links. By clicking one of the links and making a purchase, a small portion will go to support the blog. The price you pay does not change. Thank you for your support of the blog.*

⚠️ A quick yarn note: The Woobie Poncho was designed for Caron Latte Cakes, which is a Michaels-exclusive yarn. Yarnspirations now lists it as a retailer-exclusive that’s no longer in active production. Translation: you can still buy it at Michaels right now (and online while stock lasts), but eventually it’ll be gone. If you have Latte Cakes in your stash, this is the pattern for it. If you don’t, jump down to the Yarn & Materials section for substitute picks. 💙
Marly Bird wearing the Woobie Knit Poncho, a free knitting pattern with a cozy cowl neck and bulky cake gradient yarn

What You Will Love About the Woobie Knit Poncho 💖

🧣 It wears like a hug. The Woobie earned its nickname for a reason. The soft knit fabric drapes like a wearable blanket… but the built-in cowl, open lace detail, and asymmetrical shape mean it actually looks fashionable. Comfort that doesn’t compromise. That’s the whole brief.

🧶 It’s an adventurous-beginner knit. If you know how to knit, purl, yarn over, and k2tog, you can make this poncho. The lace pattern is a simple 8-row repeat that becomes second nature after the first few inches. No complicated shaping, no tricky construction — just flat knitting that turns into a wearable layer.

⏱️ It’s a weekend-pace project. Bulky yarn + big needles = fast knitting. The Woobie works up faster than most sweaters or shawls, and the finishing is just folding and seaming — no picking up stitches, no complicated edgings.

📏 Size-inclusive sizing (S / M / L with generous fit). Sized Small, Medium, and Large with body widths from 28¾” to 37¼” (folded in half) — and because a poncho drapes instead of fits to the body, the generous cut works beautifully across a wide range of body types and shapes. Adjustable length means you can make it shorter or longer to suit your style and your frame. This is a poncho that’s meant to feel good on YOU, not the other way around.

✈️ It’s a wearable travel blanket. The Woobie is one of those rare layers that doubles as a travel piece. Throw it on for a flight or train ride and you have a cozy blanket that keeps you warm without sacrificing free hands for your coffee, your phone, your kindle, or your knitting WIP. (Speaking of which — yes, you can absolutely knit on the plane. Here’s my popular guide to flying with knitting needles.) Throw it in your carry-on and your shoulders never get cold again. 🧣✈️

📄 Free Pattern here on the blog… ad-free PDF available too. The full pattern lives free right here on the blog. If you’d rather work from a clean ad-free PDF, I’ve got you covered below.

Woman wears a light blue and white striped knit poncho, showing drape and texture; features garter stitch details.

Quick Pattern Overview

🧶 Craft: Knitting

🌸 Pattern Name: Woobie Knit Poncho (originally designed for Turkey Trot 2019, refreshed 2026)

📏 Finished Size (S / M / L):

  • Cowl: 26 (34, 34)” [66 (86.5, 86.5) cm] around and 8″ [20.5 cm] in length
  • Body width: 28¾ (32¾, 37¼)” [73 (83, 94.5) cm] wide (folded in half)
  • Body length: 24 (24, 34)” [61 (61, 86.5) cm]

🎯 Skill Level: Adventurous Beginner

🧵 Yarn: Caron Latte Cakes — #5 Bulky cake gradient yarn (Michaels-exclusive, limited availability). See Yarn & Materials below for substitute picks.

🪡 Needles: U.S. 10 [6 mm] 48″ [122 cm] or longer circular needle (worked flat in rows — circulars hold the full width)

🪝 Crochet Hook: Size J/10 [6 mm] — used only to make the drawstring

📐 Construction: Worked flat from the top down (cowl first, then body), then folded in half and seamed. Drawstring threaded through cowl eyelet row (optional).

📊 Gauge: 12 sts and 24 rows = 4″ in Cowl Lace Pattern. Note: Latte Cakes has good stretch — account for it when measuring gauge.

A woman models a light blue knit poncho with textured stitches, standing in a cozy room near the Woofie Poncho pattern display.
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Is the Woobie Knit Poncho Right for You?

This pattern is a great fit if…

✅ You’re an adventurous beginner ready to knit your first poncho. If you can knit, purl, yarn over, and k2tog, you have every skill you need. The construction is flat-knit-fold-and-seam, which is one of the most beginner-friendly garment constructions out there.

✅ You want a fast, satisfying garment project. Bulky yarn + big needles = quick knit. This is a weekend or two of casual knitting, not a multi-month sweater commitment.

✅ You love cozy, cake-gradient yarns. The Woobie was designed around Caron Latte Cakes’ natural color shifts, and the lightweight lace eyelet rows let those gradients show off beautifully.

✅ You want a pattern that’s generously sized and body-friendly. Because the Woobie is a fold-and-seam poncho (not a fitted garment), the S / M / L sizing wears generously across a wide range of body shapes and sizes. The drape does the work. You’re not squeezing into a number — you’re putting on a hug. 💛

✅ You travel and want a layer that doubles as a blanket. Throw the Woobie on for a plane ride, train trip, or car ride and you have a cozy travel blanket with your arms free for coffee, your phone, your book, or your knitting WIP. (See: flying with knitting needles.)

✅ You remember the 2019 Turkey Trot and always wanted the full pattern in one place. Welcome back. This is it. 💛

This pattern might NOT be the right fit if…

❌ You’re a brand-new knitter who hasn’t done a basic project yet. The Woobie is forgiving, but it assumes you’ve cast on and bound off something before.

❌ You’re looking for a lightweight summer layer. The Woobie is bulky and cozy by design — it’s the September-through-April layer, not the July layer.

Woman wearing oversized knit poncho with relaxed fit - great travel blanket

Explore More Free Knit Patterns

If you love free knit garment patterns, you’ll want to keep these in your queue too:

The Story of the Woobie Poncho: From Turkey Trot 2019 to Standalone

If you’re new here, a little history. The Turkey Trot Mystery Make-Along is one of my favorite annual traditions. Every Thanksgiving week, I release a mystery pattern in daily “clues” — knitters and crocheters cast on without knowing what the finished project will be, and we reveal the design row by row throughout the week. It’s part craft-along, part community party, and the projects always end up being some of the most-loved designs in my archive.

The 2019 Turkey Trot was the very first one. The knit version was the Woobie Poncho. Three clues released over the Thanksgiving weekend, hundreds of knitters working through it together, and the finished piece earned its “Woobie” nickname from the community itself — because everyone said the same thing when they put it on: “It feels like a hug.”

The original pattern lived as three separate “clue” pages on the blog. For years, anyone who wanted to make the Woobie had to bounce between three URLs and piece the pattern together. Not ideal.

This post fixes that. The Woobie Poncho pattern is now fully refreshed, updated to our current standard layout, with a new schematic and new photos. The full pattern lives on one page. The old clue pages are being retired and redirected here so nobody gets lost in the archive.

If you’ve made the Woobie before — welcome back. If this is your first time meeting her — get ready to fall in love. 💛

🌟 Designer Tip: The Woobie’s body length is fully customizable. The pattern as written gives you 24″ or 34″ depending on size, but you can stop short for a capelet-length cozy or keep going for a longer drape. Just make sure to leave enough yarn for the stretchy bind-off (approximately 8 times the width of your poncho).

Build Your Skills with the Woobie Poncho

Every pattern is also a chance to grow as a knitter. Here’s what you’ll add to your skill set when you make the Woobie Knit Poncho:

🧶 Cable cast-on (mid-row). The body of the poncho uses the cable cast-on technique to add stitches mid-row. It’s a clean, secure cast-on that’s perfect for adding live stitches in any project — once you have it in your hands, you’ll use it forever.

🧶 Stretchy bind-off. The bottom edge of the poncho uses a stretchy bind-off that prevents the kind of tight, pinched cast-off edge that ruins the drape of a knit garment. Essential for any project where the cast-off edge needs to flex.

🧶 Working a simple lace pattern. The Cowl Lace Pattern is just an 8-row repeat with a yarn-over/k2tog row. It’s the gentlest possible introduction to knitting lace, and once you’ve done it, you’ve unlocked dozens of more complicated lace patterns.

🧶 Drop-stitch decoration. The body of the poncho uses a “drop the yarn-overs” row that creates an elongated open-stitch effect. It looks dramatic. It’s actually one of the easiest decorative techniques you can do in knitting.

🧶 Crochet chain (for the drawstring). If you’re knit-only, this is your friendly introduction to crochet. A simple chain stitch with a J/10 hook makes the drawstring that threads through the cowl. (BiCrafty Bestie moment! ✨)

Why the Woobie Makes the Perfect Knit Travel Poncho ✈️

Some knit garments are great in concept and a hassle in practice. The Woobie isn’t one of those. It is — genuinely — the easiest layer I own to travel with, and once you wear yours on a plane or a long road trip, you’ll understand why.

🧣 Your arms stay free. Unlike a wrap or a blanket, a poncho stays put when you move. You can reach for your tray table, type on your laptop, scroll your phone, sip your coffee, and (most importantly) keep working on your next knitting WIP — all without your “blanket” sliding off your lap.

✈️ It doubles as a blanket. Airplane temperatures are an unsolved mystery of modern aviation. The Woobie gives you blanket-level warmth in a layer you put on once and forget about. No flagging down the flight attendant for a thin paper blanket. No layering a sweater + a wrap + a coat to stay warm.

🎒 It packs flat. Roll it, fold it, stuff it in your tote — the Woobie compresses easily and doesn’t crease. Plus the acrylic-blend yarn means no special care after a flight: pull it out, give it a shake, and it’s wearable.

🪡 It’s TSA-friendly to KNIT while you wear it. Yes — you can absolutely knit on the plane. (Yes, even with metal needles. Yes, even on the way home.) If you’re new to travel knitting, here’s my complete guide to flying with knitting needles — what’s allowed, what’s not, and how to pack so security never gives you a second look.

If you’re heading on a trip — and especially if there’s a long flight or a chilly destination involved — the Woobie deserves a spot in your carry-on. Cast on now, wear it on your next trip. 💛

Collage showing a woman knitting outdoors, close hands working yarn, tools displayed, and plane wing over clouds above.

Yarn & Materials

The Woobie Knit Poncho is designed for Caron Latte Cakes — a #5 Bulky weight cake gradient yarn, 58% acrylic / 42% nylon, 530 yds / 250g per ball. It’s a Michaels-exclusive yarn and currently still available there, though Yarnspirations lists it as no longer in active production. If you can grab a few cakes for your stash, this is the time. If you can’t find it, the substitutes below are excellent.

⚠️ About Caron Latte Cakes: Caron Latte Cakes is a Michaels-exclusive cake gradient yarn that’s currently shoppable at Michaels (in-store and online) but listed on Yarnspirations as a retailer-exclusive with limited availability going forward. The Woobie was designed for it, and if you can find it, use it. If not, the substitute yarns below will give you a beautiful poncho with similar drape and gradient effect.
  • 🧵 Yarn: Caron Latte Cakes at Michaels — #5 Bulky, 58% acrylic / 42% nylon, 530 yds / 250 g cake. Sample color: Blueberry. Yardage: 2 (3, 3) balls depending on size.
  • 🪡 Needles: U.S. 10 [6 mm] 48″ [122 cm] or longer circular needle, or size to obtain gauge
  • 🪝 Crochet Hook: Size J/10 [6 mm] — for the drawstring chain
  • 📐 Stitch markers, tapestry needle, scissors, tape measure, stitch saver cord, notions bag
  • ✨ Optional: Pom-pom or tassel maker for the drawstring ends.
End view of a fluffy yarn skein in light blue, teal, and green with a soft spiral texture, ideal for knitting a Woobie Poncho.
Fuzzy yarn ball in muted pink, lavender, and gray tones with a soft, textured spiral—ideal for making a Woobie Poncho.
Close-up of a rolled skein of yarn in cream, beige, and yellow with a soft texture, ideal for knitting cozy ponchos.
Close-up of a fuzzy yarn ball in gray and off-white tones, neatly coiled on a white background.
Close-up of a ball of fuzzy light blue and white yarn with soft texture and visible fibers against a white background.
Close-up of a fuzzy yarn ball with rings of light purple, blue, gray, and olive green on a white background.

What Can I Use Instead of Caron Latte Cakes? Yarn Substitute Guide

Since Caron Latte Cakes is being phased out as a Michaels exclusive, this is the most-asked question I get about this pattern. If you can’t find Caron Latte Cakes (or you just prefer a different fiber), here are the best substitute yarns for the Woobie Knit Poncho — all swatch-tested, gauge-checked, and ranked by how closely they match the original drape and gradient effect:

YarnWeightYardage / BallFiberWhere to BuyMatch Notes
Caron Latte Cakes (the original)#5 Bulky530 yds / 250 g58% acrylic, 42% nylonMichaels (limited stock)The original — use if you can find it.
Loops & Threads Facets (top sub)Worsted-Bulky~340 yds / 170 gAcrylic blendMichaels🏆 Closest substitute. Same gradient construction, swatch for gauge — may need a needle size up.
Lion Brand Mandala Ombre#5 Bulky~466 yds / 227 g100% acrylicMichaelsWidely available, soft, machine washable. Closest gradient self-striping at this weight.
Caron Cloud Cakes#5 Bulky240 yds / 240 gAcrylic blendMichaelsCloud-soft, fluffier texture. Lower yardage — you’ll need more cakes.
Any #5 bulky cake gradient yarn#5 Bulky500+ yds / cakeAny (swatch first)Your LYS / onlineGeneric guideline if none of the above is available. Always swatch — bulky weight means small gauge differences create big size differences.
Yarn substitutes for the Woobie Knit Poncho — ranked by closeness of match to Caron Latte Cakes.

💡 Pro tip: If you’re switching to a substitute yarn, ALWAYS swatch first. Bulky-weight yarns are unforgiving — a half-stitch difference per inch can change the finished size by several inches. Use the gauge listed in the Pattern Details section as your target and adjust needle size up or down to hit it.

🌟 Designer Tip: Whatever yarn you choose, swatch in the Cowl Lace Pattern (not plain stockinette). Latte Cakes has noticeable stretch, and so do most acrylic cake yarns. The pattern fabric behaves differently than a flat swatch — measure your gauge in the stitch pattern, not in stockinette.
Person models a blue striped Woobie Poncho in a cozy room, showing off its knit texture and drape.

Video Tutorials

If you need a refresher on any of the techniques in this pattern, here are the video tutorials I recommend:

Woman models a soft, blue-and-white striped knit poncho, showing its drape and textured stitches in three different poses.

Woobie Knit Poncho — Pattern Details

Skill Level

Adventurous Beginner

Measurements

To Fit Sizes: S (M, L)

Finished Measurements:

  • Cowl: 26 (34, 34)” [66 (86.5, 86.5) cm] around and 8″ [20.5 cm] in length
  • Body width: 28¾ (32¾, 37¼)” [73 (83, 94.5) cm] wide (folded in half)
  • Body length: 24 (24, 34)” [61 (61, 86.5) cm]

Gauge

12 sts and 24 rows = 4″ in Cowl Lace Pattern.

Note: The Latte Cake yarn has a good amount of stretch, so be sure to account for that stretch when you measure your gauge.

Materials

Yarn: Caron Latte Cakes (58% acrylic, 42% nylon, 8¾ oz / 250 g, 530 yds / 485 m, #5 Bulky, available only at Michael’s): 2 (3, 3) balls. Sample color: Blueberry

Needle: U.S. 10 [6mm] 48″ [122 cm] or longer circular needle, or size required for gauge.
Note: Poncho is worked back and forth in rows. Circular needles are used to accommodate the full width of the sts.

Hook: Size J/10 [6mm]

Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, scissors, tape measure, stitch saver cord, notions bag for supplies, optional pom-pom or tassel maker.

Abbreviations

  • K — Knit
  • K2tog — Knit Two Together
  • RS — Right Side
  • St(s) — Stitch(es)
  • WS — Wrong Side
  • Yo — Yarn Over

Special Techniques

⭐ Cable Cast-on: Place a slipknot on left hand needle and k1, slip new st onto left hand needle; * insert right hand needle between first 2 sts on left hand needle, k1 from this position, leave the first st on left hand needle and slip new st onto left hand needle. Repeat from * for desired number of sts.

⭐ Stretchy Bind-Off: K2 from left hand needle, insert left hand needle into front leg of the 2 sts on right hand needle, k2tog (1 st remaining on right hand needle), * k1 from left hand needle, insert left hand needle into front leg of last 2 sts on right hand needle, k2tog; repeat from * to last st. Fasten off.

Pattern Stitch — Cowl Lace Pattern

Worked over an even number of sts (minimum 4).

Rows 1-7 (begin WS): Knit.
Row 8 (RS): K1, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last st, k1.

Repeat Rows 1-8 for Cowl Lace pattern.

Schematic

Diagram of a Woobie Poncho with precise inch measurements and center fold line, showing shape for knitting construction.
Poncho diagram with colored size measurements in centimeters and a dashed center fold line for knitting project guidance.

Pattern Notes

  • Directions are for the smallest size; changes for larger sizes are in parentheses. When only one number is given, that number applies to all sizes.
  • The Latte Cakes yarn has a good amount of stretch, so be sure to account for that stretch when you measure your gauge.
  • Poncho is worked back and forth in rows. Circular needles are used to accommodate the full width of the sts.
  • Poncho is worked flat from the top down, then folded in half and seamed.

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Woman models a light blue knit Woobie Poncho showing textured stitches; yarn and plants in the background.

Woobie Knit Poncho — Pattern Instructions

Cowl

Cast on 78 (102, 102) sts with Long-Tail cast-on (see Video Tutorials).

Work in Cowl Lace Pattern until piece measures 8″ [20 cm], ending after a pattern Row #7 (WS).

Body

Row 1 (RS): Using cable cast-on (see Special Techniques), cast on 47 (47, 61) sts, k across 47 (47, 61) newly cast-on sts, k to end.
Count: 125 (149, 163) sts.

Row 2 (WS): Using cable cast-on, cast on 47 (47, 61) sts, k across 47 (47, 61) newly cast-on sts, k to end.
Count: 172 (196, 224) sts.

Rows 3-16: Knit.

Row 17 (RS): K4, yo twice, * k1, yo twice; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Count: 172 (196, 224) knit sts.
Count: 165 (189, 217) doubled yarn-overs.
Count: 337 (385, 441) total loops.

Row 18 (WS): K4, carefully drop the next 2 yarn overs from the left hand needle, * k1, carefully drop the next 2 yarn overs from the left hand needle; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Count: 172 (196, 224) sts.

Begin Body Repeat

Rows 1-6 (begin RS): Knit.
Row 7 (RS): K4, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Count: 172 (196, 224) sts.
Rows 8-14: Knit.
Row 15 (RS): K4, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Count: 172 (196, 224) sts.
Rows 16-22: Knit.
Row 23 (RS): K4, yo twice, * k1, yo twice; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Count: 172 (196, 224) knit sts.
Count: 165 (189, 217) doubled yarn-overs.
Count: 337 (385, 441) total loops.
Row 24 (WS): K4, carefully drop the next 2 yarn overs from the left hand needle, * k1, carefully drop the next 2 yarn overs from the left hand needle; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Count: 172 (196, 224) sts.

Repeat last 24 rows until piece measures 24 (24, 34)” [61 (61, 86.5) cm] from Body cast-on edge, ending after a Row #6, #14, or #22.

🌟 Designer Tip: You may work this portion as long or short as you like. Be sure to leave enough yarn length at the end to bind off all the sts, which would be approximately 8 times the width of your Poncho for the Stretchy Bind-off method.

Bind off all sts using Stretchy Bind-off (see Special Techniques).

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends.

Seaming

Fold Poncho in half according to schematic.

Sew side seam of Body, shoulder seam, and side seam of Cowl. Leave neck and bottom open.

Drawstring

With crochet hook, make a chain approximately 60″ [152.5 cm] length. Fasten off.

Weave this chain through the first eyelet row of the cowl to act as a drawstring.

Add pom-poms or tassels or beads to the ends of the drawstring as desired.

Wear with pride. 💛

Favorite & Queue the Woobie Knit Poncho on Ravelry

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More Free Knit Patterns You’ll Love

Loved the Woobie? Here are more of my free knit patterns to add to your queue — a mix of garments, accessories, and quick projects so you can keep the cozy-knit momentum going:

A woman wears a Woobie Poncho, with visible knit texture, surrounded by yarn, coffee, checklist, and crafting details.

Frequently Asked Questions

About the designer: Marly Bird is a knit and crochet designer, teacher, and host of the Mondays with Marly podcast on YouTube — with 20+ years of professional experience designing for major yarn brands including Red Heart, Cascade, Bernat, Lion Brand, and Yarnspirations. She is one of the few designers in the industry who teaches both knitting and crochet at a master level — her signature “BiCrafty” approach. Marly’s free patterns and tutorials on marlybird.com and her YouTube channel have helped millions of crafters learn new techniques and finish projects they’re proud of. Marly also designs in partnership with Robyn Chachula — a structural-engineer-turned-crochet-designer and the author of nine crochet books, including Blueprint Crochet, Unexpected Afghans, and the Crochet Stitches Visual Encyclopedia, whose work has been featured in Interweave Crochet, Vogue Crochet, and Love of Crochet.

Is the Woobie Knit Poncho beginner-friendly?

It’s an adventurous-beginner pattern. If you can cast on, knit, purl, yarn over, and k2tog, you have every skill you need. The construction is flat-knit-fold-and-seam, which is one of the most beginner-friendly garment constructions out there. You’ll also pick up two new techniques along the way (cable cast-on and stretchy bind-off), but both are walked through in the Special Techniques section.

What yarn should I use for the Woobie Poncho?

The original was designed for Caron Latte Cakes, a Michaels-exclusive #5 Bulky cake gradient yarn. It’s still shoppable at Michaels (in-store and online) but Yarnspirations lists it as a retailer-exclusive with limited future availability. If you can find it, use it. If not, the closest big-box substitute is Loops & Threads Facets (also at Michaels), followed by Lion Brand Mandala Bulky or Caron Cloud Cakes. Any #5 Bulky cake gradient yarn with around 500+ yds per cake will work — just swatch first.

What can I use instead of Caron Latte Cakes for the Woobie Poncho?

The closest substitute is Loops & Threads Facets at Michaels — same gradient cake construction in a slightly different weight (swatch first; you may need a needle size up). Other strong substitutes: Lion Brand Mandala Ombre (#5 bulky, widely available, soft acrylic) and Caron Cloud Cakes (softer, fluffier texture but lower yardage — you’ll need more cakes). Any #5 bulky cake gradient yarn with around 500+ yards per cake will work for the Woobie. See the full yarn substitute guide earlier in this post for details, yardage, and where to buy.

Is the Woobie Poncho good for travel?

Yes — the Woobie is one of the best travel knitting projects you can wear. It works as a wearable blanket on planes, trains, or car rides because your arms stay free for coffee, your phone, your book, or your knitting WIP. It packs flat, the acrylic-blend yarn doesn’t wrinkle, and it’s warm enough to handle airplane-cabin temperatures. If you’re flying with knitting in progress, see my complete guide to flying with knitting needles.

How long does the Woobie Knit Poncho take to make?

It’s a weekend-pace project for most knitters — one to two weekends of casual knitting. Bulky yarn and big needles mean each row works up fast, and the cowl section is short. The body is where you’ll spend most of your time, but it’s mostly plain garter and easy lace rows. Significantly faster than a sweater.

Do I have to know how to crochet to make this poncho?

Only for the drawstring. The drawstring is a simple crochet chain — one of the easiest crochet stitches there is, and absolutely learnable from a 2-minute video if you’ve never crocheted before. If you really don’t want to crochet, you can make a long i-cord in knit, braid three strands of yarn, or use a piece of ribbon or leather cord instead. The drawstring is functional but not structural — any flexible cord works.

Can I make the Woobie Poncho longer or shorter?

Absolutely. The body length is the most customizable part of the pattern. Stop short for a capelet-length cozy, or keep going for a longer drape. Just make sure to end after Row #6, #14, or #22 of the body repeat, and leave enough yarn for the stretchy bind-off (about 8 times the width of your poncho).

Why is it called the Woobie?

“Woobie” is the nickname the community gave it during the original 2019 Turkey Trot Mystery Make-Along. A “woobie” is a beloved comfort blanket (think: the one your kid drags around the house), and that’s exactly how everyone described wearing this poncho — like a security blanket you could leave the house in. The name stuck, and it’s officially the Woobie Poncho now.

Where can I get the ad-free PDF of the Woobie Knit Poncho?

The ad-free PDF is available in my Etsy shop, my Ravelry store, and at shop.marlybird.com. The PDF version is printer-friendly with no ads or scrolling, which makes it much easier to work from while knitting.

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Final Thoughts

The Woobie Knit Poncho has been one of my favorite designs to revisit. Going back into a 2019 pattern and refreshing it for a new generation of knitters has been a joy… and seeing the original Woobie crowd (“I still have mine!”) show up in the community has been the cherry on top. Whether you’re knitting it for the first time or you’re a returning Woobie person who just wants the full pattern in one place… welcome. I’m so glad you’re here. 🧣💛

If you make one, please share it with me. Tag @MarlyBird on Instagram or post in the Marly’s Minions Facebook group. There’s nothing better than seeing your finished pieces. 💛

And if this pattern brightened your day, share it with a fellow knitter on Facebook — that’s how patterns like this one find the people who need them most. 🧣

Until next time, friends… ❤️

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

A cartoon avatar of a person with glasses and a brown bun smiles warmly. Their green shirt and black jacket add a stylish touch, while colorful hearts surround them like loving temperature blankets, stitching together an aura of love and positivity. -Marly Bird

🧣 First Released During Spring Fling 2026 🧣

The Woobie Knit Poncho was first released as Day 10 of Spring Fling 2026 (Fri May 15) — Marly’s annual spring event featuring 20 days of free knit & crochet patterns.

👉 See the full Spring Fling 2026 lineup on the Hub

Share your finished Woobie with the hashtag #SpringFling2026 + #WoobiePoncho 🧣💛

My First Toe-Up Knit Socks: Free Pattern with German Short Row Heel

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The complete free knit toe-up sock pattern by Marly Bird. Worked from the toe up using Judy’s Magic Cast-on, this beginner-friendly sock pattern features a German short row heel that’s smoother, prettier, and more comfortable than traditional wrap-and-turn. Available in 6 sizes (foot circumference 5.5″-10.5″). Includes step-by-step video tutorials, multiple needle methods (2 circulars, magic loop, 9″ circular), and a downloadable customization worksheet. Perfect first toe-up sock for adventurous beginner knitters.

Hey, bestie 💛

Whether this is your first pair of socks ever, or you’ve made a hundred cuff-down pairs and you’re FINALLY ready to try working from the toe up… this pattern is for you. My First Toe-Up Knit Socks is my free beginner-friendly toe-up sock pattern, designed around Judy’s Magic Cast-on at the toe and a German short row heel that I genuinely think is the most comfortable, prettiest sock heel in knitting.

Here’s why toe-up socks are kind of magical: you can try them on as you go. You can use up every last yard of yarn (just keep knitting the leg until you’re almost out). And the German short row heel has zero of the gappy “what is happening in this corner” issues that wrap-and-turn heels are famous for.

If German short rows feel intimidating, don’t panic. I’ve got step-by-step video tutorials AND a downloadable cheat sheet (more on that below). You can do this. Promise. 🧦

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and it helps keep these free patterns coming straight from my yarn-loving heart to yours. 💛

Gray and white striped knitted sock displayed on a wooden blocker with sheep cutout; showcases toe-up construction and stitch detail.

🧶 TL;DR — My First Toe-Up Knit Socks at a Glance

  • What: Free toe-up knit sock pattern with a German short row heel by Marly Bird
  • Sizes: Foot circumference 5.5–10.5″ (6 sizes); foot length + sock height adjustable
  • Yarn: 2–3 balls of sock-weight yarn (sample is Patons Kroy Socks)
  • Needles: US 2 (2.75 mm) circulars — works with 2 circulars, magic loop, or 9″ circular
  • Cast-on: Judy’s Magic Cast-on at the toe
  • Heel: German short row — smoother, prettier, and more comfortable than wrap-and-turn
  • Skill level: Adventurous beginner — if you can knit and purl in the round, you can do this
  • Time: 15–25 hours for a pair
  • Bonus: Free downloadable customization worksheet for high insteps, wider ankles, or larger heels
  • Ad-free PDF: Available on Ravelry 💖

What You Will Love About This Pattern 💖

🧦 Toe-up construction. Try them on as you go and use every last yard of yarn. No more “I have 30 yards left, can I finish this leg?” panic.

✨ German short row heel. The smoothest, prettiest, no-holes heel construction in knitting. Once you make one with German short rows, you may never go back.

📏 Six sizes. Foot circumference 5.5″ through 10.5″, with adjustable foot length and adjustable sock height. Designed to fit every adult foot.

🎬 Video tutorials at every step. Cast-on, toe + foot, German short row heel, leg + cuff… I’m walking you through every step on YouTube.

🪡 Multiple needle methods. The pattern works with 2 circulars, magic loop, or a 9-inch circular. Use whatever you like.

📝 Free customization worksheet. If you have larger ankles, a higher instep, or wider heels, my free downloadable worksheet walks you through the math to adjust the heel diagonal.

A colorful toe-up knit sock with a german short row heel is displayed on a wooden sock blocker. Marly Bird logo present.

Quick Pattern Overview

🎯 Skill Level: Adventurous Beginner. If you can knit and purl in the round and you’re willing to learn German short rows (with my videos), you can do this.

📏 Sizes: Foot circumference 5.5 (6.5, 7.5, 8.5, 9.5, 10.5) inches. Foot length and sock height both adjustable.

🧶 Yarn: 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3) balls of sock-weight yarn. The original sample uses Patons Kroy Socks (75% washable wool / 25% nylon, 166 yds per 50g ball). Any sock yarn (CYCA #1 super fine) works.

🪡 Needles: US 2 (2.75 mm) circulars. See pattern details below for which needle setup you need based on your preferred technique.

📐 Gauge: 32 stitches and 42 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch in the round. Tight stitches = durable socks.

⏱️ Estimated time: 15-25 hours for a pair, depending on size and speed.

Is This Sock Pattern Right for You?

This pattern is a perfect match if you’re ready for your first toe-up sock, OR if you’re an experienced cuff-down sock knitter ready to try toe-up construction. You’ll be right at home if you can:

  • Knit and purl comfortably in the round
  • Work from a written pattern
  • Try a new technique (Judy’s Magic Cast-on, German short rows) with video support
  • Use either 2 circulars, magic loop, or a 9-inch circular needle

Brand new to socks entirely? No worries, you can still tackle this… just watch the videos before you start. Or if you want a true beginner sock first, my My First Knit Socks (cuff-down) is a different starting point that uses traditional construction.

Three colorful hand-knit socks displayed on wooden blockers, highlighting stitch patterns; home decor visible in the background.

Want the full sock-knitting curriculum? Check out my Ultimate Guide to Knit Socks.

✨ Designer Tip: Make a gauge swatch in the round (not flat). Sock gauge in the round is genuinely different from gauge worked flat… even by half a stitch per inch. Cast on 32 stitches on your circular needle and knit a small tube before committing to your sock. 30 minutes of swatching saves you from a sock that’s an inch too big or small.

Free German Short Rows Customization Worksheet

If you have a higher instep, larger heel diagonal, or wider ankles than the standard sizing, you don’t have to abandon this pattern. I made a free downloadable customization worksheet that walks you through the math to adjust the heel diagonal so the sock fits YOUR foot perfectly.

Why German Short Rows for the Heel?

Great question. There are several ways to make a sock heel: heel flap with gusset (classic), wrap-and-turn short rows, or German short rows. Here’s why I chose German short rows for this pattern:

  • No holes. Wrap-and-turn heels often leave gaps where the wraps and the turning row meet. German short rows create a “double stitch” instead, which closes neatly.
  • Easier to memorize. Once you know the right-side and wrong-side moves, you do them over and over. No counting wraps to pick up later.
  • Smoother fabric. The double-stitch construction sits flat and looks polished from both sides.
  • Industry-standard for modern sock patterns. Most contemporary sock designers (myself included) have moved toward German short rows.

If you’ve been intimidated by German short rows in the past, this pattern is your invitation. The video tutorials walk you through every motion. By the end of one sock, you’ll have it memorized.

Build Your Skills with This Pattern

By the time you finish this pair, you’ll have practiced:

  • Judy’s Magic Cast-on… the seamless toe-start that makes toe-up socks possible
  • Lifted increases (RLM1 + LLM1)… clean, invisible toe shaping
  • 2 circulars, magic loop, or 9-inch circular technique… use whatever you prefer
  • German short rows… the modern sock heel that beats wrap-and-turn
  • Stretchy bind-off… your cuff will actually fit over your heel

If any of these are new to you, my knitting definitions glossary covers the abbreviations, and the video tutorials linked in the pattern below walk through every technique.

Want to go DEEPER into sock knitting? Come join me at Marly Bird House… I have multiple sock-focused courses inside, including Tranquility Knit Socks and Aromatherapy Knit Socks which take you through more advanced sock techniques and design variations.

Six laptop screens show knit and crochet socks, colorful yarn, notions, and a make-along course signup page.

Yarn & Materials

The original sample uses Patons Kroy Socks, a 75% washable wool / 25% nylon sock-weight yarn (166 yds per 50g ball). Patons Kroy is a workhorse sock yarn… affordable, durable, machine-washable, and widely available at craft stores. You’ll need 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3) balls.

Yarn Substitutes & Stash Options

Have indie sock yarn in your stash? Want a different fiber blend? Any sock-weight (CYCA #1 super fine) yarn with around 400+ yards per 100 g will work. For socks you’ll actually wear, look for a wool/nylon blend… the nylon adds the durability your heels need (pure wool will felt + wear out fast on hard floors).

A few favorite substitutes:

  • 🧶 KnitPicks Stroll Fingering (75% superwash merino / 25% nylon, 231 yds / 50 g)… the WeCrochet/KnitPicks workhorse sock yarn. Same fiber blend as Patons Kroy, comparable yardage, in solids, tonals, hand-dyed, and self-striping. Affordable and machine washable.
  • 🧶 KnitPicks Hawthorne Fingering (80% superwash merino / 20% nylon, 357 yds / 100 g)… a slightly more luxurious sock yarn from the same family, available in solids and beautiful hand-painted multi-color skeins. Great for self-striping or speckled socks.
  • 🌈 KnitPicks Felici Sock Yarn… the classic self-striping sock yarn. Stripes are pre-planned in the skein, so your socks look beautifully patterned without having to fuss with multiple yarn balls. Great for second-sock syndrome (it’s actually exciting to see what stripe is next).
  • ✨ KnitPicks Static Sock Yarn… fun effect sock yarn that creates an organic speckled/static look as you knit. Adds visual interest to a simple stockinette stitch pattern like this one.
  • 🦋 Malabrigo Sock Yarn… hand-dyed luxury sock yarn from Malabrigo. If you’ve been wanting to splurge on an indie-dye experience, this is a beautiful place to start. Saturated, jewel-tone colorways that make your socks feel like art on your feet.
  • 🎨 Madelinetosh Tosh Sock Yarn… cult-favorite indie hand-dyed sock yarn. Tosh Sock has a near-legendary status in the sock-knitting community for its gorgeous tonal colorways and soft hand-feel.
  • 🧶 Berroco Vintage Sock… fingering-weight wool blend with nylon from Berroco. Machine washable, durable, comes in a wide range of solids and heathers.
  • 🧶 KnitPicks Capretta Superwash Fingering (80% superwash merino / 10% nylon / 10% cashmere, 230 yds / 50 g)… if you want a splurge sock with cashmere softness. Still has 10% nylon for durability. Treat yourself.
  • 🧶 Berroco Comfort Sock (50% superwash nylon / 50% acrylic, 447 yds / 100 g)… a 100% synthetic sock yarn that’s machine washable, dryer-safe, and great for gift socks or anyone with wool sensitivity. Find Berroco yarns here.
  • 🧺 Stash yarn? Any indie hand-dyed sock yarn (Hedgehog Fibres, Spincycle, SweetGeorgia, Knerd String, Must Stash, etc.), Lion Brand Sock-Ease, Regia Sock, or any other fingering-weight wool/nylon blend with around 400+ yards per 100 g is a great fit. Speckled and self-striping yarns look especially fun in this simple stockinette pattern.

Want to browse the full KnitPicks sock-yarn lineup? Shop all KnitPicks sock yarn here.

For more sock yarn project ideas beyond socks, see my What To Crochet With Sock Yarn guide (even if you’re knitting, the yarn weight discussion applies).

Needles: US 2 (2.75 mm) circulars. Your specific setup depends on your preferred technique:

  • 2 circulars method: 2 needles, one 24″ and one longer than 24″
  • Magic loop method: 1 circular longer than 24″
  • 9″ circular method: a 9″ circular for the foot and leg, plus a longer-than-24″ circular for the toe and heel

I shop my KnitPicks needles for sock knitting because the size 2 tips are sharp enough to handle the tight gauge.

Notions:

⭐️ Marly Bird Amazon Storefront ⭐️

Video Tutorials

Every step of this pattern has a video tutorial. Watch ahead of time or pull them up as you go:

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A colorful knit sock displayed on a sock blocker, showing even stitches and smooth texture as part of a toe-up knitting project.

My First Toe-Up Knit Socks — Pattern Details

Skill Level

Adventurous Beginner

Sizes & Finished Measurements

To Fit Foot Circumference: 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) inches (measure around ball of foot)
Foot Length: Adjustable
Sock Height: 5 inches from top of heel (adjustable)

Actual Sock Measurements:
Foot Circumference: 5.5 (6.5, 7.5, 8.5, 9.5, 10.5) inches
Foot Length: Adjustable
Sock Height: 5 inches from top of heel

32 stitches / 42 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch in the round (you want tight stitches for socks as it helps with the wear of them).

Materials

Yarn: Patons Kroy Socks (75% washable wool, 25% nylon super fine weight yarn; 1.75oz/50g; 166yds/152m), 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3) balls. OR any sock weight yarn.

Knitting Needles: US 2 (2.75 mm) or size to obtain gauge.

Depending on what tools you want to use to make socks, you will need the following:

  • To make socks with 2 circulars: 2 needles, 1 needle 24″ and the other longer than 24″
  • To make socks with magic loop: 1 circular needle longer than 24″
  • To make socks with a 9″ circular needle on foot and leg: a 9″ circular needle, plus a longer-than-24″ circular at the toe and heel

Notions:

Special Abbreviations

  • GSR: German Short Row (see special stitches)
  • LLM1: Left Lifted make-one (M1) increase
  • PM: place marker
  • RLM1: Right Lifted make-one (M1) increase
  • SM: slip marker
  • W&T: wrap and turn

Special Stitches

⭐ GSR (German Short Row): these short rows are worked in such a way that you get a ‘double stitch’ in place of a traditional W&T short row.

GSR Right side: bring the yarn to the front BETWEEN the needles, slip the stitch from the left needle to the right needle purlwise with the yarn in front, pull the yarn to the back of the work OVER TOP of the right needle. This will distort the stitch making it look as if there are 2 stitches instead of 1. This is called the ‘double stitch’. With yarn in back, begin knitting.

GSR Wrong side: Slip the stitch from the left needle to the right needle purlwise with yarn in front, pull the yarn to the back of the work OVER TOP of the right needle. This will distort the stitch, making it look as if there are 2 stitches instead of 1. This is called the ‘double stitch’. Don’t forget to bring the yarn to the front BETWEEN the needles to begin purling.

Continue in this fashion as specified in your pattern, creating your ‘doubled’ stitches. To finish the short rows simply knit or purl the double stitch together.

⭐ LLM1 (Left Lifted Make-One): Insert left needle tip into the left leg of the second stitch directly under the stitch on the right hand needle (the grandmother stitch), knit it through the back leg. (1 stitch increased)

⭐ RLM1 (Right Lifted Make-One): Insert right needle tip into the right leg of the stitch directly under the stitch on the left hand needle (the mother stitch), lift the leg onto the left hand needle and knit it. (1 stitch increased)

⭐ W&T (Wrap and Turn):

Knit row: with yarn in back, slip next st purlwise onto right hand needle, bring yarn to front of work, return slipped st to left hand needle, bring yarn to back of work, then turn work.

Purl row: with yarn in front, slip next st purlwise onto right hand needle, bring yarn to back of work, return slipped st to left hand needle, bring yarn to front of work, then turn work.

⭐ Hide Wraps: Knit row… pick up the wrap from the front with the right hand needle and knit together with the stitch it wraps.

Notes

  • Whether working on 2 circulars or magic loop, the stitches are always divided onto two needles. Needle #1: instep stitches; Needle #2: sole stitches.
  • When the end of one needle has been reached, rotate the work so the stitches just worked are on the bottom. Move the bottom stitches to the cord and the unworked stitches to the next needle and continue on to work in the round.
  • ⭐️ indicates extra explanation of instructions
  • 🎬 indicates video tutorial available

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My First Toe-Up Knit Socks — Pattern Instructions

Toe

🎬 Watch video for part 1: cast-on, toe and foot

Using Judy’s Magic Cast-on, cast on 16 (16, 20, 24, 24, 28) stitches total.

⭐ Make it so half the stitches are on each of two needles if using 2 circulars, or distribute so that half of the stitches are on each tip if using magic loop.

Knit 1 round evenly.

⭐ First half of stitches are instep, second half of stitches are sole.
⭐ Place a marker on the needle with the instep stitches so you can identify that as needle #1 whether doing 2 circulars or magic loop.

Round 1 (increase round):
Needle #1: K1, PM, RLM1 (see special stitches), knit to 1 stitch before end of instep stitches, LLM1 (see special stitches), K1
Needle #2: K1, RLM1, knit to 1 stitch before end of instep stitches, LLM1, K1 — [4 stitches increased]

Round 2: Knit

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until there are 44 (52, 60, 68, 76, 84) stitches total.

⭐ This is the total number of stitches for the sock and should measure the actual sock circumference listed above if you achieved gauge.

Two socks in progress knit with multicolored yarn and needles, shown on a white background; project: toe-up sock knit-along.

Foot

⭐ Before continuing, use a removable stitch marker to mark an actual stitch in the center of the sole (needle #2). This will ensure a perfectly matching second sock.

⭐ If you want to switch to a 9 inch circular needle, now is the time to do it as you work in even rounds for the foot of the sock. Keep the marker in place to indicate the start of the rounds.

Knit evenly in rounds until the sock measures 1.5 (1.5, 2, 2, 2.5, 2.5) inches shorter than your desired finished foot length, ending after 22 (26, 30, 34, 38, 42) stitches on needle #1 have been worked.

⭐ The foot of the sock length is the resulting measurement of your desired finished foot length minus the measurement of the 1st half of the short row heel. Note: If the number of total heel stitches is changed from the number listed in the pattern, then the row count of the short row heel changes, and thus the measurement of the foot of the sock changes.

⭐ Before continuing, use another removable stitch marker to mark an actual stitch in the center of the sole (needle #2). This will ensure a perfectly matching second sock.

⭐ This is a great place to add a lifeline.

🎬 Watch video for how to add a lifeline

⭐ If you switched to a 9 inch circular needle, now is the time to transfer the sole stitches onto another circular needle. The 9 inch needle will remain in place acting as a stitch holder for the instep stitches (keep the marker in place to indicate the start of the rounds), and the new needle will act as needle #2 and will have the sole stitches worked on it.

✨ Designer Tip on Customizing Your Sock Heel: If you want to adjust the heel diagonal circumference of your sock to accommodate a larger instep, larger heel diagonal measurement, or larger ankles, take a look at the worksheet I’ve made walking you through step by step the calculations you need to alter the pattern.

👉 Get the FREE Customize Sock Heel Diagonal of German Short Row Heel Worksheet here

German Short Row Heel

🎬 Part 2 video URL for German Short Row Heel video https://youtu.be/t0dNvAXi4tI?si=r412d3vOigSmG29j

1st half of short row heel (worked only on needle #2)

Row 1 (RS): Knit 7 (9, 10, 11, 13, 14), PM, knit 8 (8, 10, 12, 12, 14), PM, knit 7 (9, 10, 11, 13, 14) stitches, turn work.

⭐ Stitches between markers are final heel stitches. The short rows will be worked outside of those markers.

⭐ The final heel stitches will measure 1 (1, 1.25, 1.5, 1.5, 1.75) inches wide and traditionally represent approximately ⅓ of the number of the total heel stitches. Note: If the number of final heel stitches is changed from the number listed in the pattern, then the number of stitches to work short rows on and the row count of the short row heel changes, and thus the total instructions change as well as the measurement of the foot of the sock changes.

Row 2 (WS): GSR Wrong side (see special stitches), purl 22 (25, 29, 33, 37, 41) stitches, turn work.
Row 3 (RS): GSR Right side (see special stitches), knit to stitch before previous ‘double stitch’, turn work.
Row 4 (WS): GSR Wrong side, purl to stitch before previous ‘double stitch’, turn work.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 another 5 (7, 8, 9, 11, 12) times more. All the stitches outside the markers are ‘double stitches’ (except the last stitch worked as it will become a double stitch on the next row).

‘Pick Up’ rows: Center of short row heel (worked on needle #2 and needle #1)

Row 1 (RS):
Needle #2: GSR Right side, knit to the ‘double stitch’, *knit the two strands of the ‘double stitch’ together as one, repeat from * to end of needle #2
Needle #1: W&T the 1st stitch on needle #1, turn work.

Row 2 (WS):
Needle #2: Purl to the ‘double stitch’, *purl the two strands of the ‘double stitch’ together as one, repeat from * to end of needle #2
Needle #1: W&T the 1st stitch on needle #1, turn work.

⭐ These wrap and turns will help prevent holes at the join.

2nd half of short row heel (worked only on needle #2)

Row 1 (RS): Knit 7 (9, 10, 11, 13, 14), slip marker, knit 8 (8, 10, 12, 12, 14), remove marker, knit 1 stitch, turn work.
Row 2 (WS): GSR Wrong side, purl 8 (8, 10, 12, 12, 14), remove marker, purl 1 stitch, turn work.
Row 3 (RS): GSR Right side, knit to the ‘double stitch’, knit the two strands of the ‘double stitch’ together as one, knit 1, turn work.
Row 4 (WS): GSR Wrong side, purl to the ‘double stitch’, purl the two strands of the ‘double stitch’ together as one, purl 1, turn work.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 another 5 (7, 8, 9, 11, 12) times more.

Next Row (RS): GSR Right side (see special stitches), knit to the ‘double stitch’, knit the two strands of the ‘double stitch’ together as one, do not turn work.

Finishing round

Next Round (RS):
Needle #1: Knit the W&T together, knit to the last stitch of needle #1, knit the W&T together.
Needle #2: Knit the two strands of the ‘double stitch’ together as one, knit to end of needle #2.

Gray and white striped knitted sock displayed on a wooden blocker with sheep cutout; showcases toe-up construction and stitch detail.

Leg and Cuff

🎬 Watch video for part 3: leg and cuff

Continue knitting all stitches around the sock until leg measures 8″ [20.3 cm] or desired length of leg before 1″ [2.54 cm] cuff.

⭐ The leg length measurement is customizable. Note: The beauty of toe up socks is once the foot and heel are complete, you can use up all the remaining yarn on the leg of the sock.

⭐ The leg of the sock should have some negative ease or it will slouch down into the shoe when worn.

Once the leg measures desired length, work 1×1 ribbing for 1″ [2.54 cm].

Stretchy Bind-Off

Bind off using the stretchy bind off as follows:

  1. Work 2 stitches on left hand needle in pattern
  2. Insert left hand needle into front leg of 2 stitches on right hand needle
  3. Knit the stitches together. Leaves one stitch remaining on right hand needle
  4. Work next stitch on left hand needle in pattern
  5. Repeat from step 2 to last stitch of round

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Side and close-up of an orange knit sock with pink toe, heel, and cuff; wavy white and pink lines along the sides. Displayed on a mannequin.

More Marly Bird Sock Patterns

Once you’ve nailed your first toe-up pair, here are more sock patterns to try:

Want the full sock-knitting curriculum? Browse my Ultimate Guide to Knit Socks for step-by-step learning, video tutorials, and pattern recommendations sorted by skill level.

Digital devices show the “Merry Stitchmas” pattern book, charts, knit and crochet stockings, and toe-up sock project.

Want Marly Walking You Through Every Step? Sock Workshops at Marly Bird House

If you want hands-on coaching, advanced techniques, and a designer in your ear while you learn… my sock workshops at Marly Bird House are where you go:

  • 🌿 Tranquility Knit Socks… a calm, mindfulness-paced sock pattern with full video instruction at Marly Bird House
  • 🧴 Aromatherapy Knit Socks… self-care meets sock knitting
  • 🧘‍♀️ Meditation Knit Socks… a calm, meditative sock-knitting experience built around the Sweet Tomato Heel (a unique heel construction that’s different from German short rows and traditional flap-and-gusset, perfect for crafters who want to expand their sock-knitting repertoire). Sized S-L. Includes a full PDF pattern, interactive charts, and video modules covering Anatomy of a Sock, Yarn Planning for Sock Length, Cuff, Leg, Sweet Tomato Heel, Foot, and Toe.
  • 🧦 Classic and Colorful Crochet Socks Workshop… if you also crochet, this is the comprehensive sock crochet course

Browse all sock courses at Marly Bird House.

Red and blue hand-knitted sock on a wooden blocker with visible stitch detail, yarn balls, and knitting tools on a white surface.
Hand-knitted sock with dark and light blue geometric patterns, shown with matching yarn balls on a woven mat.
Purple and pink striped knit sock on a wooden blocker with purple yarn, floral bag, tape measure, needles, and scissors nearby.

Favorite & Queue on Ravelry

Please favorite and queue My First Toe-Up Knit Socks on Ravelry and tag your finished projects #MyFirstToeUpSocks. I love seeing your color choices and finished pairs.

Favorite This Pattern on Ravelry - Marly Bird

Frequently Asked Questions

Are German short rows better than wrap-and-turn for sock heels?

Honestly, yes… most modern sock designers (myself included) have moved to German short rows because they create a smoother, no-hole heel without the fussy wrap-pickup of W&T. They’re easier to memorize and look more polished. If you’ve struggled with wrap-and-turn heels in the past, give GSR a try… I think you’ll convert.

Can I use any sock yarn for this pattern?

Yes. Look for sock-weight (CYCA #1 super fine) yarn with around 400+ yards per 100 grams. A wool/nylon blend gives you the best durability for actual wear. Hand-dyed indie sock yarn works beautifully for this pattern… the simple stockinette body really shows off variegated colors.

Which needle method is best for toe-up socks?

Honestly, whichever you’re most comfortable with. The pattern works with all three. 2 circulars and magic loop work for the entire sock. The 9-inch circular is faster for the foot and leg but you’ll need a longer circular for the toe and heel. If you’ve never tried any of them before, magic loop is usually the easiest to learn first.

How do I customize the heel for a high instep or wide ankles?

Great question. I made a free customization worksheet that walks you through the math step-by-step. Download it, fill in your own measurements, and you’ll know exactly what numbers to adjust in the pattern for a perfect fit.

How long does this pattern take to knit?

Most knitters finish a pair in 15-25 hours, depending on size and speed. Sock knitting is naturally portable… if you knit during downtime (lunch breaks, waiting rooms, TV time), you can finish a pair in a few weeks of casual knitting.

Should I use a lifeline?

Yes, especially before the German short row heel. Slide a lifeline (waste yarn or dental floss) through your stitches just before starting the heel. If a mistake happens, you can rip back to the lifeline without losing your foot.

What’s the difference between toe-up and cuff-down sock construction?

Toe-up starts at the toe with Judy’s Magic Cast-on, works the foot up, turns the heel, knits the leg, and binds off at the cuff. Cuff-down starts at the cuff with a stretchy cast-on, works the leg down, turns the heel, knits the foot, and grafts the toe shut. Toe-up’s main advantages: you can try the sock on as you go, and you use up every yard of yarn on the leg. Cuff-down’s main advantages: classic heel flap construction is familiar to many knitters, and the bind-off is a finished cuff (no Kitchener stitch needed).

Where can I get the ad-free PDF?

The ad-free printable PDF is available on Ravelry. Etsy and Shopify versions coming soon. Your purchase supports me as an indie designer and keeps the free patterns coming. 💛

💬 Final Thoughts

Toe-up socks were the construction that made me fall in love with sock knitting. Once you cast on with Judy’s Magic Cast-on (which I promise is easier than it sounds with a video), work the toe, knit the foot, and turn the German short row heel for the first time… you understand WHY toe-up is so beloved.

This is the pattern I wish I’d had when I was learning. Try-as-you-go fit, video tutorials at every step, multiple needle methods, and a heel that actually fits. If you finish a pair, please share with me. Tag me @themarlybird and use #MyFirstToeUpSocks, #mmmdi, and #marlybird. I want to see every pair.

Love, Your BiCrafty Bestie, Marly Bird

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Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl: A Free Knit Pattern for Crescent City Fans

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The Lehabah Fire Sprite Right Triangle Shawl is a free intermediate knit shawl pattern inspired by the fire sprite character from Sarah J. Maas’s Crescent City series. Worked flat in fingering weight yarn on US 5 needles, this asymmetrical right triangle shawl features simple Columns of Lace stitching, an i-cord-style slipped edge, and a ribbed border. Finished piece measures 88 inches along the hypotenuse and drapes beautifully across the shoulders.

Woman with curly blonde hair showcases the orange Lehabah Fire Sprite knit shawl, highlighting stitch detail and drape.

If you love a shawl that wraps you up like a hug AND you love a bookish knit that connects to your favorite fantasy series, this one was made for you. The Lehabah Fire Sprite Right Triangle Shawl is a free knit shawl pattern featuring warm, flame-inspired lace columns that open up gorgeously when blocked. It’s perfect for indie fingering weight skeins and makes a stunning gift for the Crescent City reader in your life (even if that’s you 🔥).

🔥 Spring Fling 2026 Day 6 Pattern: The Lehabah Fire Sprite Knit Shawl debuted as Day 6 of Spring Fling 2026, my 20-day knit and crochet pattern celebration. Cast on, share your progress, and tag me @themarlybird with #LehabahShawl + #SpringFling2026 to be featured. Fire-sprite fans always welcome 🔥💛

Hey, bestie 💛

You know when you read a book and one character just completely steals your heart? That’s Lehabah for me. If you’ve read Sarah J. Maas’s House of Earth and Blood (Crescent City, Book 1), you already know the little fire sprite with the big personality… the one who lights up every scene she’s in, literally and figuratively. I finished that book and immediately started sketching a shawl in her honor. Warm, glowing, lace-like flames dancing up the fabric, stretchy enough to wrap around you like she deserves a giant hug.

This is that shawl. And whether you’re a fellow SJM reader or you just love a beautifully stretchy lace right triangle shawl… cast on. You’re going to love this one.

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and it helps keep these free patterns coming straight from my yarn-loving heart to yours. 💛

The Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl in green, purple, and blue features bold colorwork and textured stitches.

What You Will Love About This Pattern 💖

🔥 It’s free here on the blog. The full pattern is right here, thanks to the ads. If you’d rather have an ad-free, printable PDF, you can grab one from Etsy, Shopify, or Ravelry.

📐 The right triangle shape drapes beautifully. At 88 inches along the long edge, it wraps across your shoulders without slipping, and the stretchy lace gives it tons of flex.

🧶 The stitch pattern looks fancier than it is. Columns of Lace is a 2-row repeat over 7 stitches. If you can count to seven and do a yarn over, you can knit this shawl.

📚 It’s named for a Crescent City character you already love. Lehabah is a fire sprite with the biggest heart, and this shawl is my little tribute to her. Bookish knitter energy at its finest.

💛 Perfect yardage for indie fingering skeins. Four 400-yard skeins of a hand-dyed fingering, and you’ve got yourself a heirloom-quality right triangle shawl.

A woman models an orange knitted shawl with fire-inspired details; close-ups highlight intricate stitch patterns and texture.

Quick Pattern Overview

🎯 Skill Level: Advanced Beginner to Intermediate. You need to be comfortable with basic lace (k2tog, ssk, yo) and following a written pattern.

📏 Finished Size: 47 inches across the top edge, 65 inches along the straight side edge, 88 inches along the hypotenuse. The piece is very stretchy and measurements are flexible.

🧶 Yarn: Destination Yarn Letter Plus (fingering weight / CYCA #1). 4 skeins, 1,600 yards total. Colorway: El Rosario Monarch Preserve.

🪡 Needles: US 5 (3.75 mm).

📐 Gauge: 21 sts (3 repeats) = 4 inches in Columns of Lace Pattern.

A woman wears an orange knit shawl with visible stitch detail; pattern preview pages and a “Buy Now” button shown.
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The full pattern below is 100% free… thank you for supporting the site by reading through the ads! But I totally get it… sometimes you just want a clean, printable, ad-free PDF you can take to your knitting chair (or to the beach, or to the LYS, or to 30,000 feet).

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Lehabah in Other Colors 🎨

Not feeling the fiery orange? I get it… color is personal, and you should knit a shawl you’ll actually wear. Good news: Lehabah is striking in just about every colorway you can imagine. The Columns of Lace pattern shows beautifully in solids, tonals, and even subtle variegated yarns… so don’t let the original colorway scare you off.

Here are a few of the other colors I’ve think would look great knit up… pick the one that calls to your wardrobe and yarn stash.

Lehabah Fire Sprite knit shawl in multiple colors — free Crescent City inspired knit lace shawl pattern by Marly Bird

💡 Pro tip for picking your color: For maximum lace definition, choose a yarn with subtle tonal shifts or a solid… the Columns of Lace stitch pattern reads more clearly when the yarn doesn’t compete with it. High-contrast variegated yarns can hide the lace texture, so save those skeins for stockinette projects.

Personally, I am partial to the cobalt blue color and I think I need to make another sample pronto!

Marly Bird wears a bright blue textured knit shawl with intricate patterns, highlighting the Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl design.

Is This Knit Shawl Right for You?

This pattern is a perfect fit if you’ve already done some basic lace work and you’re ready to take on a bigger, more satisfying project. If you can knit, purl, do a yarn over, and work a k2tog and ssk without looking at the tutorial every time, you are 100% ready for Lehabah.

It’s also a dream project for anyone who loves a long, drapey wrap you can really snuggle into. The right triangle shape means it stays on your shoulders instead of sliding off, and the Columns of Lace pattern is meditative without being boring.

If you’re brand new to lace knitting, I’d gently steer you toward my Super Simple Ribbed Lace Knit Scarf & Cowl first. It’s a confidence-building beginner pattern, and once you’ve got that under your belt, Lehabah will feel totally doable.

✨ Designer Tip: Lace looks scary until you realize every RS row is the same eight stitches. Columns of Lace is literally k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, repeated across the row. Purl back. Repeat. If you can count to seven, you can knit this shawl.
Multicolored knit scarf and cowl with rib and lace stitches, blue buttons, displayed with “Super Simple Rib and Lace Scarf & Cowl” text.

Explore More Knit Shawl Patterns

The Lehabah Shawl is part of my growing collection of free knit shawls. If you love this one, you’ll want to browse the full Knit Shawl Patterns hub, where every free shawl is organized by shape, season, and skill level. It’s the easiest way to find your next project.

A few shawl-shaped friends that live near Lehabah:

What Is a Right Triangle Shawl, Anyway?

Great question. A right triangle shawl is a shawl shape created by increasing along ONE edge only, every other row, while the other edge stays straight (no spine increases, no second-edge shaping). That single-side growth gives the finished shawl its asymmetrical right-triangle silhouette… with one long top edge that runs across your shoulders and a single point that hangs down your back.

Purple triangular knitted swatch with clear stitch definition, showing start point, increased edge, and bind-off edge.

Right triangle shawls are different from boomerang shawls, which require shaping on TWO edges to get that curved, bent-wing silhouette. Right triangles keep it simple: increase on one side, knit straight on the other. That makes them incredibly beginner-friendly while still producing a long, dramatic drape that wraps beautifully across your shoulders.

A triangular knitted swatch showing labeled edges for a boomerang shawl, with visible garter stitch texture.

Compared to a traditional symmetric triangle shawl (which increases at both edges plus a center spine), a right triangle gives you a more flattering asymmetrical look that drapes naturally without sliding off. The long edge stays put across your shoulders, and the single point becomes a styling feature… you can let it hang, tuck it into your jacket, or wrap it once around your neck like a scarf. The shape is also a yarn-friendly choice for gradient or hand-dyed skeins… they show off their color shifts beautifully along the long edge.

An orange Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl with textured stitches is displayed by a person in a colorful, book-filled room.

If you want to go deep on shawl shapes, I’ve got a full breakdown in the Knit Shawl Patterns guide. But for right now, just trust me… once you wear a right triangle, you won’t want to go back.

Build Your Skills with This Shawl

Even if you’re already comfortable with lace, Lehabah gives you a few skills worth locking in. You’ll practice working lace over a multi-stitch repeat while maintaining a consistent slipped edge… this is muscle memory you’ll use on every shawl and wrap you ever make.

You’ll also master right triangle construction (increasing on one side only), counting lace stitches between yarn overs and decreases, and blocking lace to fully open up the stitch pattern. That last one is where the magic happens… wet blocking transforms a good shawl into a gorgeous one.

Person models a bright orange knit Lehabah shawl; smaller photos show the same shawl pattern in red, teal, purple, and green.

Need a refresher on any of the abbreviations? My knitting definitions page has every knit term you’ll see in this pattern. Brand new to lace or want to build your foundation? Start with my BiCrafty Bootcamp: Learn to Knit… it’s where all my beginners start.

Want to take your shawl knitting deeper? My BiCrafty Stitch-Nite at Marly Bird House is where I teach shawl techniques like lace edgings, short row garter shaping, and advanced blocking… live, with me, alongside a full community of BiCrafty Besties. It’s the perfect next step after you finish Lehabah.

Marly Bird models a textured green knit boomerang shawl with bold stitch definition, worn over a black top in a cozy room.

Yarn & Materials

This shawl is designed for Destination Yarn Letter Plus, a fingering weight blend of 80% superwash merino wool and 20% nylon. Each skein is 400 yards / 100 grams, and you need 4 skeins total.

The colorway I used, El Rosario Monarch Preserve, was inspired by the monarch butterfly sanctuary in Mexico. But let me tell you… with the warm orange, gold, and flame tones, it could not be more perfect for a Lehabah tribute. It’s basically fire in yarn form.

Suggested Alternative Yarns

Want to substitute? Look for a fingering weight yarn with a bit of nylon (for durability), around 400 yards per 100g skein. Hand-dyed, single-ply indie fingerings also work gorgeously here… this is a great project to use that one skein (okay, four skeins 😅) you’ve been saving for something special.

✨ Designer Tip: Because you’re knitting this at a looser gauge (US 5 with fingering yarn), you want a yarn that blooms beautifully when blocked. Superwash merino is exactly that kind of yarn. Avoid tightly-spun, heavy-twist fingerings for this project… you want drape, not structure.

Video Tutorials

If you’re a visual learner, I’ve got you. Here are my go-to videos for every technique you’ll use in the Lehabah Shawl:

Vibrant orange knit shawl with intricate stitch detail shown in two poses, modeled indoors; text: "LEHABAH.

Lehabah Fire Sprite Right Triangle Shawl — Pattern Details

Skill Level

Intermediate

Finished Measurements

Shawl measures 47″ [119.5 cm] across top edge, 65″ [165 cm] along straight side edge, and 88″ [223.5 cm] along hypotenuse.

Note: Piece is very stretchy and measurements are flexible.

Gauge

21 sts (3 repeats) = 4″ [10 cm] in Columns of Lace Pattern.

Materials

Yarn: Destination Yarn Letter Plus (80% superwash merino wool, 20% nylon, 400 yds / 365 m, 3½ oz / 100 g, CYCA #1 fingering)
4 skeins: El Rosario Monarch Preserve

Needle: US 5 [3.75 mm], or size required for gauge.

Notions:

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Abbreviations

  • K – Knit
  • K2tog – Knit 2 Together
  • P – Purl
  • RS – Right Side
  • Sl – Slip
  • St(s) – Stitches
  • WS – Wrong Side
  • Wyif – With Yarn In Front
  • Yo – Yarn Over
A Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl drapes over a black top, showing intricate knit stitches and vibrant colors in a cozy craft room setting.

Special Stitches

Ssk (Slip, Slip, Knit): Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, as if to knit. Insert left hand needle into the front of these two stitches and knit them together from this position (1 stitch decreased).

Pattern Stitches

Edge Pattern (used at the beginning and end of rows throughout shawl):

Row 1 and all RS rows: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, work in pattern as indicated to last 3 sts, kfb, k2.
Row 2 and all WS rows: Sl 1 wyif, k2, work in pattern as indicated to last 4 sts, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Columns of Lace Pattern (worked over a multiple of 7 sts):

Row 1 (RS): * K2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk; repeat from * to end.
Row 2: Purl.

Chart

✨ Following along with the free pattern on MarlyBird.com? You’ll have everything you need to make the shawl, but if you want the exclusive stitch charts, those are only available in the ad-free PDF version.

You’ll enjoy a clean, printable, ad-free experience while supporting Marly Bird’s free tutorials and patterns 💖

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A woman wears an orange knit shawl with visible stitch detail; pattern preview pages and a “Buy Now” button shown.

Notes

Before You Begin

This shawl is one of those relaxing, “just one more row” kind of projects 😊 The simple lace repeat is easy to memorize after a few repeats, making it a wonderful travel or TV knitting project.

A few things to keep in mind before you cast on:

  • The shawl begins at one corner and grows outward into a right triangle shape.
  • You will increase 1 stitch every Right Side row to gradually widen the shawl.
  • The slipped-stitch edging gives the shawl a tidy, professional-looking finish while also helping the edges stay smooth.
  • The lace pattern is stretchy and airy, so your shawl may look smaller before blocking. Trust the process—wet blocking really brings this shawl to life!
  • Don’t stress about perfection. Because of the texture and drape of the fabric, small mistakes tend to disappear beautifully into the finished piece.
  • If you love a giant cozy wrap, keep knitting additional repeats before working the border. If you prefer a smaller scarf-style shawl, stop earlier.
✨ Designer Tip: Add a lifeline every few repeats of the lace pattern. It makes relaxing into the knitting so much easier!

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I’m thrilled to share this amazing pattern with you, many patterns on my blog are absolutely free! I kindly request that you don’t copy and paste or distribute this pattern. Prefer an ad-free experience? Buy a digital PDF pattern for a small fee from one of my online stores for a seamless crafting journey. 

I appreciate your support and readership. You are the reason I can keep doing what I love and sharing it with others. So, thank you from the bottom of my yarn-loving heart! Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links at no cost to you.

Woman with curly blonde hair wears an orange knit Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl, showing lace detail; bookshelves in background.

Lehabah Fire Sprite Right Triangle Shawl — Pattern Instructions

Cast on 5 sts using long tail cast-on (see Video Tutorials above).

Setup Rows

Row 1: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, kfb, k1 — 6 sts.
Row 2: [Sl 1 wyif, p1] 3 times.
Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, kfb, k2 — 7 sts.
Row 4: Sl 1 wyif, k2, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 5: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, kfb, k2 — 8 sts.

Row 6: Sl 1 wyif, k3, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 7: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, k1, kfb, k2 — 9 sts.
Row 8: Sl 1 wyif, k4, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 9: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, k2, kfb, k2 — 10 sts.
Row 10: Sl 1 wyif, k5, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 11: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, k3, kfb, k2 — 11 sts.
Row 12: Sl 1 wyif, k6, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 13: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, k4, kfb, k2 — 12 sts.
Row 14: Sl 1 wyif, k7, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 15: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, k5, kfb, k2 — 13 sts.
Row 16: Sl 1 wyif, k8, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 17: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, k6, kfb, k2 — 14 sts.
Row 18: Sl 1 wyif, k9, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Begin Columns of Lace Pattern

Row 19: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 3 sts, kfb, k2 — 15 sts.
Row 20: Sl 1 wyif, k3, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 4 sts, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 21: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 4 sts, k1, kfb, k2 — 16 sts.
Row 22: Sl 1 wyif, k3, p1, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 4 sts, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 23: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 5 sts, k2tog, yo, kfb, k2 — 17 sts.
Row 24: Sl 1 wyif, k3, p2, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 4 sts, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 25: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 6 sts, k2tog, yo, k1, kfb, k2 — 18 sts.
Row 26: Sl 1 wyif, k3, p3, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 4 sts, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 27: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 7 sts, k2tog, yo, k2, kfb, k2 — 19 sts.
Row 28: Sl 1 wyif, k3, p4, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 4 sts, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 29: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 8 sts, k2tog, yo, k3, kfb, k2 — 20 sts.
Row 30: Sl 1 wyif, k3, p5, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 4 sts, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.
Row 31: [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 9 sts, k2tog, yo, k4, kfb, k2 — 21 sts.
Row 32: Sl 1 wyif, k3, p6, work in Columns of Lace Pattern to last 4 sts, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Repeat Rows 19–32 only 29 more times — 224 sts.

✨ Designer Tip: Pop in a lifeline every 10-15 pattern repeats. It takes about 30 seconds and it will save you an hour of tinking if something goes sideways. Past-you will thank future-you every single time. New to lifelines? Watch my quick tutorial here.
Bright orange lace shawl with intricate stitchwork, outstretched indoors, plant and patterned rug visible in the background.

Border

Row 1 (RS): [Sl 1 wyif, k1] twice, k2, p3, * k4, p3; repeat from * 29 more times, k5.
Row 2: K8, * p4, k3; repeat from * 29 more times, p2, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until Border measures 2″ [5 cm].

Bind off all sts loosely in rib pattern.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends. Block to measurements as needed.

Blocking Tips

Okay, listen… if you skip blocking, you are literally leaving the magic on the table. Lace before blocking looks like crumpled fabric. Lace AFTER blocking looks like flames opening up across your shoulders. This is the single most important step in lace shawl knitting.

Soak the finished shawl in cool water with a splash of wool wash for about 20 minutes. No agitation, just let it drink. Squeeze out the water gently (don’t wring!), roll in a towel and press to remove excess moisture. Lay flat on blocking mats and stretch to finished measurements, pinning or using blocking wires along the long edge to really open up the lace. Let dry completely before removing pins… this is usually 24 hours. Be patient.

Because this shawl uses a superwash merino, be a little careful with how aggressively you block… superwash can over-relax. Want a deep dive on blocking superwash yarn specifically? I’ve got you: Steam Blocking vs Wet Blocking Superwash Yarn.

Colorful knit blockers in a clear box with one blocker out, showing metal pins for blocking knitted or Tunisian crochet pieces.

Love This Yarn? More Patterns Using Fingering Weight!

If you’ve fallen for fingering weight (and honestly… who could blame you), you’ve got plenty of other Marly Bird patterns to enjoy with that same gorgeous drape and stitch definition. Here are some of my favorite fingering weight knit patterns to cast on next:

A triangular crochet shawl features mosaic, striped, and geometric stitches in pinks, purples, white, and gray on a mannequin.

Anne Slip Stitch Mosaic Knit Shawl

If Lehabah taught you to love fingering weight and lace, the Anne Slip Stitch Mosaic Knit Shawl takes you in a completely different direction… mosaic colorwork with bold geometric patterns, worked corner-to-corner. Same fingering weight love, completely different visual energy. Great for knitters who want to explore slipped-stitch colorwork without the float-juggling of stranded knitting.

My First Toe-Up Knit Socks

Fingering weight sock yarn is basically magic in your hands… and if you’ve been thinking about knitting your first pair of socks, my Toe-Up Knit Socks free pattern with the German Short Row heel is a beginner-friendly place to start. Same fingering weight you’re already in love with from Lehabah, in a completely different (very practical) project.

Orange knit socks with wavy pink and white designs; one sock has a pink toe and cuff, the other white. Shown on wood surface.

Hint of Hazelnut Knit Socks

meg add something here

More Than Just Socks Fingerless Mittens

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Fingerless gloves in pink speckled yarn shown on hands, highlighting stitch detail and texture. Dried leaves and flower add contrast.
Hand-knit socks with blue toes, heels, and cuffs, and a patterned center panel, shown on wooden blockers. Mini Madness Knit Helix Socks.

Mini Madness Knit Helix Socks

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Favorite & Queue on Ravelry

Please favorite and queue the Lehabah Fire Sprite Right Triangle Shawl on Ravelry and tag your finished projects #LehabahShawl or #mmmdi so I can see them! There is nothing I love more than watching your versions come to life… every color, every blocking shot, every glowing finished photo.

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More Knit Shawl Patterns You’ll Love

Or browse the full Knit Shawl Patterns hub for every free shawl on the blog, sorted by shape, season, and skill level. Want to branch out beyond shawls? Check out my full library of free knit and crochet patterns… there is something here for every craft mood.

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Frequently Asked Questions

What shape is the Lehabah shawl?

Lehabah is a right triangle shawl. That means it’s constructed by increasing on ONE edge only, row after row, while the other edge stays straight. The result is an asymmetrical right-triangle silhouette with a long top edge (about 88 inches) that runs across your shoulders and a single point that hangs down your back. It’s NOT a boomerang shawl… boomerangs require shaping on two edges to get that bent-wing curve. Right triangles like Lehabah are simpler to knit AND drape beautifully without sliding off your shoulders.

Can I substitute a different yarn?

Totally, yes. Just look for a fingering weight yarn (CYCA #1) with around 400 yards per 100g skein, and get 4 skeins for the full shawl. A little nylon content is nice for durability since superwash merino can relax a lot when blocked. Hand-dyed single-ply fingerings work beautifully here too.

Is this pattern really intermediate, or can a confident beginner try it?

Honestly… if you’ve done basic yarn overs and you can read a pattern with confidence, you can absolutely do this. The lace is a 2-row repeat and it’s literally the same 7 stitches over and over. The edge pattern takes a few rows to click, but once it does, it becomes muscle memory. If you’ve never done lace at all, start with my Super Simple Rib and Lace Scarf & Cowlfirst.

Do I need blocking wires to finish this shawl?

You don’t need them, but they make blocking a lace shawl so much faster and give you cleaner edges. If you don’t have blocking wires, use lots of T-pins along the long edge. Either way, don’t skip blocking… lace doesn’t look like lace until it’s opened up.

Why is it called Lehabah? Do I need to have read Crescent City?

Nope, you don’t need to have read the books at all… the shawl is stunning on its own. But if you have read Sarah J. Maas’s Crescent City series, you know Lehabah is the fire sprite with the biggest heart in Griffin Antiquities. The warm, flame-like lace and glowing colorway felt like the perfect tribute to her. Grab the book on Amazon and read while you knit… peak bookish-knitter energy.

What if I make a mistake in the lace section?

First… take a breath. It happens to all of us. If you’ve been using lifelines (please use lifelines 🙏 see video below), just rip back to your last one and re-knit. If you didn’t, you can carefully tink (un-knit) back stitch by stitch. My How to Tink video will walk you through it.

Can I make this shawl bigger or smaller?

Yes! The pattern repeats rows 19-32 thirty times total, so you can stop earlier for a smaller shawl or keep going for a bigger one. Just make sure you end on a Row 32 before starting the border, and adjust your yarn yardage accordingly. Each full 14-row repeat adds a few inches overall.

A person wears the Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl, a large knit wrap in blue with rich texture and subtle stitch detailing.

Can I make my shawl in a different color?

Absolutely… the color is yours to choose! While the original Lehabah is a warm flame-orange to honor the fire sprite character, this shawl looks absolutely stunning in just about every color you can imagine. Solids, hand-dyed tonals, gentle gradients… they all let the Columns of Lace stitch pattern shine. Want to see Lehabah knit up in other colorways? Scroll up to the Lehabah in Other Colors section for inspiration. The only thing I’d skip is a high-contrast variegated yarn… the color shifts can fight with the lace and hide the texture. Stick with subtle color movement and your shawl will be a showstopper in whatever shade speaks to you.

Where can I get the ad-free PDF?

You’ve got three options: Etsy, Shopify, or Ravelry. Same pattern, same price, pick whichever shop you prefer. Your purchase supports me as an indie designer and keeps the free patterns coming. 💛

🛒 Buy the ad-free PDF on Etsy
🛍️ Buy the ad-free PDF on Shopify
🧶 Buy the ad-free PDF on Ravelry

Person wearing a bright orange knitted Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl with eyelet stitch detail over a black top in a colorful room.

Final Thoughts

I love it when a book character crawls into my imagination and refuses to leave until I’ve made something in their honor. Lehabah did exactly that. This shawl is warm, a little dramatic, deeply snuggly, and it reminds me of her every time I wrap it around my shoulders.

If you cast it on, please please please share your progress… tag me @marlybird on Instagram or Facebook and use #MMMDI (Marly Made Me Do It), #MarlyBird, or #LehabahShawl so I can see it. I want every color, every blocking shot, every glowing finished photo. And if you’re sitting there thinking “I’ve got three WIPs already, I shouldn’t start another one”… friend, we both know the shawl wins. Cast on. 🔥

Happy knitting, bestie.

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

A cartoon avatar of a person with glasses and a brown bun smiles warmly. Their green shirt and black jacket add a stylish touch, while colorful hearts surround them like loving temperature blankets, stitching together an aura of love and positivity. -Marly Bird

Eowyn Free Cable Knit Shawl Pattern – Textured Right Triangle Shawl

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The Eowyn Free Cable Knit Shawl Pattern is a textured right triangle shawl knitting pattern that combines a Snug Cable Pattern with double moss stitch in a sport weight wool bamboo blend. This intermediate-level free knit shawl pattern is worked flat on US 7 needles, finishes at approximately 37″ across the top edge by 50″ along the side, and gives you the perfect balance of squishy cables, gentle drape, and wearable shape.

Looking for a free cable knit shawl pattern that combines texture, structure, and elegance? This right triangle shawl knitting pattern features a beautiful mix of snug cables and double moss stitch using soft wool bamboo yarn. It’s an intermediate-level, sport weight knitting pattern that creates a cozy yet lightweight accessory perfect for layering.

Hey, bestie 💛

If you’ve been craving a textured knit shawl that feels just as good to make as it does to wear… this one is going to hit all the right notes. We’re talking rich, squishy cables, relaxing double moss stitch, a wearable right triangle shape, and a yarn that gives you that perfect blend of softness and structure.

This isn’t just another shawl… it’s the kind of piece that makes people ask, “Wait… you MADE that?!”

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through one of these links I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and you get to support this yarn-loving heart while I keep the free patterns coming. Thank you!

🌸 Spring Fling 2026 Featured Pattern: The Eowyn Cable Knit Shawl debuted as Day 5 of Spring Fling 2026, my 20-day knit and crochet pattern celebration. Cast on, share your progress, and tag me @themarlybird with #EowynCableShawl + #SpringFling2026 to be featured. ❤️
Eowyn free cable knit shawl pattern by Marly Bird, shown styled three ways in textured navy blue sport weight wool bamboo yarn.

💖 What You Will Love About This Pattern

✨ Texture that pops. The combination of the Snug Cable Pattern and double moss stitch gives this shawl incredible dimension… without overwhelming your stitches or your eyeballs.

✨ A wearable right triangle shape. This right triangle shawl knitting pattern is easy to style… wrap it, drape it, or toss it over your shoulders for effortless coziness. It’s the kind of shape that goes with everything from a denim jacket to a little black dress.

✨ Balanced skill-building. If you’re ready to level up your knitting, this pattern introduces cables in a structured, repeatable way that builds confidence one row at a time.

✨ Lightweight but warm. Using a wool bamboo yarn, you get warmth from wool and drape from bamboo… aka the dream combo for a year-round shawl.

Eowyn cable knit shawl pattern shown in three poses, highlighting the snug cable and double moss stitch texture in navy blue.

🧵 Quick Pattern Overview

🧶 Skill Level: Intermediate

📏 Shape: Right triangle shawl

📐 Finished Size: Approx. 37″ across top edge and 50″ along straight side

🪡 Yarn Weight: Sport weight (CYCA #2)

🧵 Yarn: Classic Elite Wool Bam Boo (50% wool / 50% bamboo) … discontinued, see substitutes below

🪡 Needles: US 7 (4.5 mm)

This is a free triangle shawl knitting pattern that grows gradually… which means you’ll see your progress almost every row. Always a win when cables are involved.

Eowyn cable knit shawl draped over a denim jacket, showing the textured snug cables and double moss stitch in navy blue sport weight yarn.

🤔 Is This Right Triangle Shawl Knitting Pattern Right for You?

This pattern is perfect for you if you…

✔️ Are comfortable with knit and purl stitches
✔️ Want to learn or improve your cable techniques
✔️ Love textured fabrics like a double moss stitch shawl
✔️ Enjoy relaxing repeats with visual interest
✔️ Are ready for a project that grows with you (literally)

✨ Designer Tip: If cables have intimidated you in the past… this is a great place to start. The repeats are consistent, the chart is fully written out, and once you “see” the pattern, it clicks beautifully.

Woman modeling a textured blue cable knit triangle shawl, showing detailed stitching and cozy drape.

🧶 Explore More Free Knit Shawl Patterns

Eowyn lives inside a much bigger collection of free knit shawl patterns here on the blog… triangles, crescents, boomerangs, half-circles, lace, mosaic, brioche, and more. If you love a textured triangle, you might also love the Mariposa Textured Triangle Shawl (worsted weight) or the Return to Me Boomerang Shawl (cables and lace) or the Make It Mine Shawl (sport weight).

Person models a vibrant pink, green, and gray knitted shawl with textured stitch detail; yarn shelves and Marly Bird logo behind.
Mariposa Knit Shawl
Green Boomerang Knit Shawl draped over shoulders, showing textured stitches and neat edges in a bright, creative space.
Return to Me Boomerang Shawl
Blue and green striped knit or crochet shawl, showing textured stitches, draped over denim jacket.
Make It Mine Triangle Shawl

🧠 Build Your Skills with This Pattern

This shawl helps you practice:

  • 2/2 LPC and 2/2 RPC cable techniques
  • Reading written stitch patterns and charts together
  • Managing stitch markers across multiple sections
  • Working increases inside a triangular shape without losing your pattern

✨ Designer Tip: Place your stitch markers exactly as the pattern instructs… they’re doing a LOT of heavy lifting to keep your cable section and your double moss section organized as the shawl grows.

🧶 Yarn & Materials

The original sample was knit in Classic Elite Wool Bam Boo, a sport weight 50% wool / 50% bamboo blend… soft, breathable, and lovely with a drapey hand. Sadly this yarn has been discontinued, but the substitutes below give you the same blend of warmth and drape.

You’ll need:

✨ Designer Tip: If you tend to knit tightly, check your gauge early… bamboo blends don’t bounce back the way pure wool does, so a tight gauge will stay tight and your stitches will look squeezed.

Yarn Substitutes for the Eowyn Shawl

Not every substitute below is the exact same fiber blend as the original… but each one is a yarn I’d happily reach for if I were knitting Eowyn again today. Pick the one that fits your stash, your climate, and your color story.

  • Knit Picks Galileo … sport weight, merino/bamboo blend. The closest match to the original blend and feel.
  • Berroco Ultra Alpaca Light … sport weight wool/alpaca, warm with beautiful stitch definition and drape.
  • HiKoo Sueno … 80% superwash merino, 20% bamboo. Slightly less drape but excellent structure for cables.
  • Universal Yarns Bamboo Pop … cotton/bamboo blend with a beautiful sheen. Slightly thinner, but it would knit up gorgeously with a gauge check.
  • Malabrigo Caprino … 80% superfine merino wool, 20% cashmere. Smooth stitch definition. Sub with a gauge check.
⭐️ Marly Bird Amazon Storefront ⭐️

🎥 Video Tutorials

Need a refresher on a stitch or technique? I’ve got you covered. Here are video tutorials for every stitch and skill used in the Eowyn shawl…

Eowyn cable knit shawl styled three ways: as a hood, draped over the shoulders, and wrapped around the neck, in textured navy blue.

💎 Love the Pattern but Want an Ad-Free PDF?

This cable knit shawl pattern is ideal for intermediate knitters looking to expand their skills and get cozy doing it. But what if you’d rather knit from a clean, printable, ad-free version that you can mark up, take on the go, and keep forever?

You can grab the ad-free PDF on:

📄 Ad-Free PDF Pattern Format & Details

This is a comprehensive, in-depth knitting pattern designed to guide you every step of the way.

  • 27-page digital PDF pattern
  • Detailed written instructions from cast-on to bind-off
  • Stitch pattern breakdowns (cables and texture stitches)
  • Chart support for visual learners
  • Helpful notes, tips, and guidance throughout
  • Finishing instructions including blocking

This isn’t just a quick pattern… it’s a fully supported project experience so you can knit with confidence. Perfect for printing, marking your progress, and knitting on the go.

Eowyn cable knit shawl ad-free PDF mockup showing the printed pattern pages alongside the finished textured navy shawl.
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A woman with glasses and curly hair models a colorful crocheted scarf, showing textured stitches and vibrant yarn.
Eowyn textured triangle cable knit shawl pattern by Marly Bird, modeled in front of a wall of colorful yarn.

🧶 Eowyn Cable Knit Shawl — Pattern Details

Skill Level

Intermediate

MEASUREMENTS

Finished Measurements

Wrap measures 37″ [131 cm] across top edge and 50″ [127 cm] along straight side edge

Gauge

21 sts and 34 rows in Double Moss Stitch = 4″ [10 cm]

MATERIALS

Yarn

Classic Elite Yarns, Wool Bam Boo (50% wool, 50% bamboo, 1¾ oz / 50 g, 118 yards / 108 m, CYCA #2 Sport)

8 balls: #1647 Navy

Needle

U.S. 7 [4.5 mm], or size required for gauge.

Notions

ABBREVIATIONS

  • K – Knit
  • K2tog – Knit Two Stitches Together
  • P – Purl
  • Pm – Place Marker
  • Sl – Slip
  • Slm – Slip Marker
  • St(s) – Stitches
  • Tbl – Through The Back Leg
  • Wyif – With Yarn In Front
Eowyn cable knit shawl displayed flat in navy blue, showing the snug cable and double moss stitch texture in detail.

CABLE STITCHES

⭐️ 2/2 LPC (2/2 Left Purl Cable): Slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in front, k2 from left hand needle, p2 from cable needle.

⭐️ 2/2 RPC (2/2 Right Purl Cable): Slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in back, k2 from left hand needle, p2 from cable needle.

⭐️ 2/1/2 RC (1/1/1 Right Cable): Slip 3 sts onto cable needle and hold in back, k2 from left hand needle, return sts from cable needle onto left hand needle, slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in front, k1 from left hand needle, k2 from cable needle.

⭐️ 2/1/2 LC (1/1/1 Left Cable): Slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in front, slip 1 st onto second cable needle and hold in back, k2 from left hand needle, return st from back cable needle onto left hand needle, k1 from left hand needle, k2 from front cable needle.

PATTERN STITCHES

Snug Cable Pattern

Worked over a multiple of 10 sts + 4.

Row 1 (RS): 2/2 RPC, * k1 tbl, 2/2 LPC, k1 tbl, 2/2 RPC; repeat from * to end.

Row 2: * K2, p2, p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k2, p2.

Row 3: K2, p2, * k1 tbl, p2, 2/1/2 LC, p2; repeat from * to end.

Row 4: * K2, p2, p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k2, p2.

Row 5: * 2/2 LPC, k1 tbl, 2/2 RPC, k1 tbl; repeat from * to last 4 sts, 2/2 LPC.

Row 6: P2, k2, * p1 tbl, k2, p2, p1 tbl, p2, k2; repeat from * to end.

Row 7: * P2, 2/1/2 RC, p2, k1 tbl; repeat from * to last 4 sts, p2, k2.

Row 8: P2, k2, * p1 tbl, k2, p2, p1 tbl, p2, k2; repeat from * to end.

Repeat Rows 1-8 for Snug Cable Pattern.

Double Moss Stitch

Worked over a multiple of 4 sts.

Rows 1 and 2: * P2, k2; repeat from * to end.

Rows 3 and 4: * K2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Repeat rows 1-4 for Double Moss Stitch.

CHARTS

Full shawl charts are exclusive to the ad-free PDF, including the Stitch Fiddle link to use the progress tracker. If you love charts, you will love the chart for this shawl… it’s 100% complete. Every. Row.

Eowyn cable knit shawl chart preview shown on a computer, tablet, and phone alongside the finished navy shawl.
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NOTES

  • Stitch markers are used to distinguish the first 5 stitches and last 2 stitches of the RS row (edge stitches), as well as the separation of the Snug Cable Pattern section and the Double Moss Stitch section.
  • When reading the knitting charts, begin at the bottom right corner and read right to left on RS, and left to right on WS.

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I’m thrilled to share this amazing pattern with you, many patterns on my blog are absolutely free! I kindly request that you don’t copy and paste or distribute this pattern. Prefer an ad-free experience? Buy a digital PDF pattern for a small fee from one of my online stores for a seamless crafting journey. 

I appreciate your support and readership. You are the reason I can keep doing what I love and sharing it with others. So, thank you from the bottom of my yarn-loving heart! Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links at no cost to you.

Woman models a blue cable knit shawl, showing its textured stitch detail in a cozy room with bookshelves and decor.

EOWYN CABLE KNIT SHAWL — PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

SECTION 1 – SET-UP

Cast on 5 sts using long tail cast-on.

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, KFB, k1 – 6 sts.

Row 2: (Sl 1 wyif, k) 3 times.

Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, KFB, slm, k2 – 7 sts.

Row 4: Sl 1 wyif, k1, (k1, sl 1 wyif) twice, k1.

Row 5: (Sl 1 wyif, k1) twice, KFB, slm, k2 – 8 sts.

Row 6: Sl 1 wyif, k3, sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k1.

Row 7: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, KFB, slm, k2 – 9 sts.

Row 8: Sl 1 wyif, k4, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Establish Edge Pattern

With RS Facing, place after the first 5 sts and before the last 2 sts.

The edge sts will always be worked as follow for the remainder of the pattern:

RS rows: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, . . . follow pattern to last 3 sts . . . , KFB, slm, k2.

WS rows: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2,  . . . follow pattern to last 5 sts . . . , slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Continue as follows:

Row 9: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, p1, KFB, slm, k2 – 10 sts.

Row 10: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k3, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 11: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, p2, KFB, slm, k2 – 11 sts.

Row 12: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k4, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 13: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, p2, k1, KFB, slm, k2 – 12 sts.

Row 14: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1, k2, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

SECTION 2 – SNUG CABLE PATTERN SET-UP

Row 15: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, 2/2 RPC, KFB, slm, k2 – 13 sts.

Row 16: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k4, p2, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 17: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, k2, p2, k1 tbl, KFB, slm, k2 – 14 sts.

Row 18: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 19: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, 2/2 LPC, k1 tbl, k1, KFB, slm, k2 – 15 sts.

Row 20: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1, p1 tbl, p2, k2, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 21: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, p2, k2, k1 tbl, k2, KFB, slm, k2  – 16 sts.

Row 22: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p2, p1 tbl, p2, k2, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 23: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, 2/2 RPC, k1 tbl, k2, p1, KFB, slm, k2 – 17 sts.

Row 24: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 25: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, k2, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k2, KFB, slm, k2 – 18 sts.

Row 26: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 27: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, 2/2 LPC, k1 tbl, 2/2 RPC, k1 tbl, KFB, slm, k2 – 19 sts.

Row 28: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2, p1 tbl, p2, k2, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 29: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, p2, 2/1/2 RC, p2, k1 tbl, k1, KFB, slm, k2 – 20 sts.

Row 30: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1, p1 tbl, k2, p2, p1 tbl, p2, k2, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice. 

Row 31: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, 2/2 RPC, k1 tbl, 2/2 LPC, k1 tbl, k2, KFB, slm, k2 – 21 sts.

Row 32: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p2, p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice. 

Row 33: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, k2, p2, k1 tbl, p2, 2/1/2 LC, p1, KFB, slm, k2 – 22 sts.

Row 34: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k3, p2, p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 35: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, 2/2 LPC, k1 tbl, 2/2 RPC, k1 tbl, 2/2 LPC, KFB, slm, k2 – 23 sts.

Row 36: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2, p1 tbl, p2, k2, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 37: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, p2, 2/1/2 RC, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k2, k1 tbl, KFB, slm, k2 – 24 sts.

Row 38: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2, p1 tbl, p2, k2, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

SECTION 3 – BEGIN AND INCREASE SNUG CABLE PATTERN REPEATS

Row 39: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 1 of Snug Cable Pattern to last 5 sts, pm, k1 tbl, k1, KFB, slm, k2 – 25 sts.

Row 40: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 2 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 41: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 3 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1 tbl, k2, KFB, slm, k2 – 26 sts.

Row 42: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 4 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 43: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 5 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1 tbl, k2, p1, KFB, slm, k2 – 27 sts.

Row 44: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k3, p2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 6 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 45: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 7 of Snug Cable Pattern to 2 sts before marker, remove marker, 2/1/2 RC, replace marker after 2nd of the 5 cable sts just worked, p2, KFB, slm, k2 – 28 sts.

Row 46: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k4, p2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 8 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 47: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 1 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1 tbl, 2/2 LPC, k1 tbl, KFB, slm, k2 – 29 sts.

Row 48: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 2 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 49: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 3 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1 tbl, p2, k2, k2 tbl, k1, KFB, slm, k2 – 30 sts.

Row 50: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1, p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 4 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 51: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 5 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1 tbl, 2/2 RPC, k1 tbl, k2, KFB, slm, k2 – 31 sts.

Row 52: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k4, p1 tbl, k2, p2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 6 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 53: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 7 of Snug Cable Pattern to 2 sts before marker, remove marker, 2/1/2 RC, replace marker after 2nd of the 5 cable sts just worked, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k1, KFB, slm, k2 – 32 sts.

Row 54: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 8 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 55: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 1 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, remove marker, k1 tbl, 2/2 LPC, k1 tbl, 2/2 RPC, replace marker, KFB, slm, k2 – 33 sts.

Row 56: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, slm, work Row 2 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 57: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 3 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, KFB, slm, k2 – 34 sts.

Row 58: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1, slm, work Row 4 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 59: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 5 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1 tbl, k1, KFB, slm, k2 – 35 sts.

Row 60: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 6 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 61: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 7 of Snug Cable Pattern to 2 sts before marker, remove marker, 2/1/2 RC, replace marker after 2nd of the 5 cable sts just worked, KFB, slm, k2 – 36 sts.

Row 62: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 8 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 63: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 1 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1 tbl, k2, p1, KFB, slm, k2 – 37 sts.

Row 64: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1, k2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 2 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 65: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 3 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1 tbl, p2, k2, KFB, slm, k2 – 38 sts.

Row 66: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p2, k2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 4 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 67: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 5 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1 tbl, 2/2 RPC, k1 tbl, KFB, slm, k2 – 39 sts.

Row 68: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 6 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 69: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 7 of Snug Cable Pattern to 2 sts before marker, remove marker, 2/1/2 RC, replace marker after 2nd of the 5 cable sts just worked, p2, k1 tbl, p1, KFB, slm, k2 – 40 sts.

Row 70: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k3, p1 tbl, k2, p2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 8 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 71: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 1 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1 tbl, 2/2 LPC, k1 tbl, k2, KFB, slm, k2 – 41 sts.

Row 72: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p2, p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 2 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 73: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 3 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1 tbl, p2, 2/1/2 LC, p1, KFB, slm, k2 – 42 sts.

Row 74: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k3, p2, p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 4 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 75: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 5 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1 tbl, 2/2 RC, k1 tbl, 2/2 LC, KFB, slm, k2 – 43 sts.

Row 76: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 6 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 77: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 7 of Snug Cable Pattern to 2 sts before marker, remove marker, 2/1/2 RC, replace marker after 2nd of the 5 cable sts just worked, p2, k1tbl, p2, k2, k2tbl, KFB, slm, k2 – 44 sts.

Row 78: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 8 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Rows 79-118: Repeat Rows 39-78 once more – 64 sts.

Rows 119-134: Repeat Rows 39-54 once more – 72 sts.

Remove second Snug Cable Pattern marker, and replace it after 10 sts, or 3 sts away from diagonal edge.

Note: From this point forward, the Snug Cable Pattern markers, as well the number of sts worked for Snug Cable Pattern, will remain consistent.

A smiling person models a textured cable knit shawl with visible stitch detail, standing on a colorful rug among books and yarn.

SECTION 4 – DOUBLE MOSS STITCH SET-UP

Row 135: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 1 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, KFB, slm, k2 – 73 sts.

Row 136: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, slm, work Row 2 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 137: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 3 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1 tbl, KFB, slm, k2 – 74 sts.

Row 138: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1 tbl, slm, work Row 4 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 139: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 5 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k2 tbl, KFB, slm, k2 – 75 sts.

Row 140: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p2 tbl, slm, work Row 6 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice. 

Row 141: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 7 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k2 tbl, k1, KFB, slm, k2 – 76 sts.

Row 142: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1, p2 tbl, slm, work Row 8 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice. 

Row 143: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 1 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k2 tbl, p2, KFB, slm, k2 – 77 sts.

Row 144: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k4, p2 tbl, slm, work Row 2 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice. 

Row 145: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 3 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k2 tbl, k2, p1, KFB, slm, k2 – 78 sts.

Row 146: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k3, p2, p2 tbl, slm, work Row 4 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

SECTION 5 – BEGIN AND INCREASE DOUBLE MOSS STITCH REPEATS

Row 147: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 5 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k2 tbl, pm, p2, k2, (the last 4 sts count as Row 1 of Double Moss Stitch), pm, KFB, slm, k2 – 79 sts.

Row 148: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, slm, work Row 2 of Double Moss Stitch to marker, slm, p2 tbl, slm, work Row 6 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 149: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 7 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k2 tbl, slm, work Row 3 of Double Moss Stitch to marker, slm, k1, KFB, slm, k2 – 80 sts.

Row 150: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1, slm, work Row 4 of Double Moss Stitch to marker, slm, p2 tbl, slm, work Row 8 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 151: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 1 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k2 tbl, slm, work Row 1 of Double Moss Stitch to marker, slm, p2, KFB, slm, k2 – 81 sts.

Row 152: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k4, slm, work Row 2 of Double Moss Stitch to marker, slm, p2 tbl, slm, work Row 2 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice. 

Row 153: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 3 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k2 tbl, slm, work Row 3 of Double Moss Stitch to marker, slm, k2, p1, KFB, slm, k2 – 82 sts.

Row 154: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k3, p2, slm, work Row 4 of Double Moss Stitch to marker, slm, p2 tbl, slm, work Row 4 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 155: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 5 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k2 tbl, slm, work Row 1 of Double Moss Stitch to marker, remove marker, p2, k2, replace marker, KFB, slm, k2 – 83 sts.

Row 156: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, slm, work Row 2 of Double Moss Stitch to marker, slm, p2 tbl, slm, work Row 6 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 157: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, work Row 7 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k2 tbl, slm, work Row 3 of Double Moss Stitch to marker, slm, k1, KFB, slm, k2 – 84 sts.

Row 158: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1, slm, work Row 4 of Double Moss Stitch to marker, slm, p2 tbl, slm, work Row 8 of Snug Cable Pattern to marker, slm, k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Rows 159-398: Repeat Rows 151-158 only 30 more times – 204 sts.

Row 399: Repeat Row 151 only once more – 205 sts.

Remove Snug Cable Pattern and Double Moss Stitch markers, leaving only first marker (after the first 5 sts) and last marker (before the last 2 sts) on the needle.

Woman modeling a blue textured triangle shawl over a navy shirt, showing stitch detail in a bright, cozy room.

SECTION 6 – BORDER

Row 400: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k3, p1 tbl, k2, p2, * p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2; repeat from * to marker, slm,  k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 401: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, * k2, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k2, k1 tbl; repeat from * to 8 sts before marker, k2, p2, k1 tbl, p2, kfb, slm, k2 – 206 sts.

Row 402: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k4, p1 tbl, k2, p2, * p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2; repeat from * to marker, slm,  k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 403: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, * k2, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k2, k1 tbl; repeat from * to 9 sts before marker, k2, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k1, kfb, slm, k2 – 207 sts.

Row 404: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2, * p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2; repeat from * to marker, slm,  k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 405: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, * k2, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k2, k1 tbl; repeat from * to 10 sts before marker, k2, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k2, kfb, slm, k2 – 208 sts.

Row 406: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2, * p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2; repeat from * to marker, slm,  k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 407: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, * k2, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k2, k1 tbl; repeat from * to 1 st before marker, kfb, slm, k2 – 209 sts.

Row 408: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, * p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2; repeat from * to marker, slm,  k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 409: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, * k2, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k2, k1 tbl; repeat from * to 2 sts before marker, k1, kfb, slm, k2 – 210 sts.

Row 410: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1, * p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2; repeat from * to marker, slm,  k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 411: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, * k2, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k2, k1 tbl; repeat from * to 3 sts before marker, k2, kfb, slm, k2 – 211 sts.

Row 412: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p2, * p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2; repeat from * to marker, slm,  k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 413: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, * k2, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k2, k1 tbl; repeat from * to 4 sts before marker, k2, p1, kfb, slm, k2 – 212 sts.

Row 414: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k3, p2, * p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2; repeat from * to marker, slm,  k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 415: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, * k2, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k2, k1 tbl; repeat from * to 5 sts before marker, k2, p2, kfb, slm, k2 – 213 sts.

Row 416: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k4, p2, * p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2; repeat from * to marker, slm,  k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 417: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, * k2, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k2, k1 tbl; repeat from * to 6 sts before marker, k2, p2, k1 tbl, kfb, slm, k2 – 214 sts.

Row 418: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2, * p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2; repeat from * to marker, slm,  k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

Row 419: Sl 1 wyif, k1, sl 1 wyif, k2, slm, * k2, p2, k1 tbl, p2, k2, k1 tbl; repeat from * to 7 sts before marker, k2, p2, k1 tbl, p1, kfb, slm, k2 – 215 sts.

Row 420: Sl 1 wyif, k1, slm, k3, p1 tbl, k2, p2, * p1 tbl, p2, k2, p1 tbl, k2, p2; repeat from * to marker, slm,  k1, [sl 1 wyif, k1] twice.

I-CORD BIND OFF

Sl 1 wyif, k1, * slip both sts on the right needle back onto the left needle, k1, k2tog-tbl; repeat from * until 2 sts remain on the right needle, pass first st over the second st.

Fasten off.

FINISHING

Weave in all loose ends.

Block to measurements as needed.

Finished Eowyn cable knit triangle shawl modeled over a black top, showing intricate cable and double moss stitch detail.

🧼 Blocking Tips

Blocking will take your shawl from “nice” to “WOW.” Don’t skip it… blocking is what opens up your cable texture, evens out your stitches, and makes the finished shawl look like the photos.

  • Gently soak your finished shawl in lukewarm water with a splash of Eucalan wool wash
  • Press out (don’t wring) the excess water with a clean towel
  • Lay it flat on blocking squares and shape into a clean right triangle
  • Pin the edges with blocking pins and open up the cable texture for maximum definition
  • Let it dry completely before unpinning

✨ Designer Tip: Bamboo fibers relax beautifully when blocked… do NOT skip this step. The shawl you pull off the needles and the shawl you put on after blocking are basically two different garments.

🧶 Love This Yarn? More Sport Weight Knit Shawls You’ll Adore

Since the original Wool Bam Boo is no longer in production, the better question is… where else can you put that same soft, drapey, sport weight love? Here are a few favorite knit shawls that work beautifully in similar fiber blends:

Blue and yellow striped knit shawl draped over a denim jacket, showing even stitches and soft texture. Shelves in background.
Stellar Stripes Knit Hexagon Shawl
Person models a hand-knit green textured scarf indoors, with visible stitch detail; denim jacket and bookshelves behind.
Peak Serenity Knit Shawl
A woman models a red Outlander knit shawl with textured stitches over a white sweater, outdoors in sunlight.
Blood of My Blood Knit Shawl

💖 Favorite This Pattern on Ravelry

Add Eowyn to your queue… favorite it… and don’t forget to share your finished project so we can all admire those cables!

Favorite the Eowyn Cable Knit Shawl pattern on Ravelry - Marly Bird

🧵 More Knit Shawl Patterns You’ll Love

Looking for more inspiration? Here are a few more free knit shawl patterns that pair beautifully with Eowyn’s cable-and-texture vibe:

Pink slip stitch knitted scarf with visible texture, worn by a woman outdoors, highlighting stitch detail against green foliage.
Light blue knitted Triangle Shawl Pattern drapes over shoulders, highlighting textured stitches, worn indoors with soft lighting.
Woman models a knitted mosaic triangle shawl outdoors, showing off textured stitches against a lush green backdrop.
Four colorful shawls, knit and Tunisian crochet, displayed on mannequins and hangers; visible stitch texture and drape.
Marly Bird in a navy blue Eowyn cable knit shawl, with FAQ banner about the free knit shawl pattern.

❓ Frequently Asked Questions

What makes this a good free cable knit shawl pattern for intermediate knitters?

It combines simple repeats with structured cables, which makes it approachable while still challenging enough to build new skills. The Snug Cable Pattern uses just a handful of cable abbreviations (2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC, and a couple of three-stitch crosses) and the double moss stitch is just knits and purls in a simple rotation. If you can knit, purl, and follow a written pattern, you can knit Eowyn.

Is this a true right triangle shawl knitting pattern?

Yes. The shawl increases along one edge to create a classic right triangle shape with one straight side and one diagonal side. The finished dimensions are approximately 37″ along the top edge and 50″ along the straight side, which gives you plenty of fabric to wrap, drape, or wear as a hood.

Can beginners knit this shawl?

Advanced beginners can absolutely tackle this shawl, but I’d recommend being comfortable with knit, purl, kfb increases, and reading a written stitch pattern before you cast on. If cables are brand new to you, watch the Cable Without a Cable Needle video tutorial in the Video Tutorials section first… it makes the whole process click.

What is double moss stitch and why is it used here?

Double moss stitch alternates blocks of knit and purl stitches over a four-row repeat, which creates a soft, pebbly texture. It’s used here as the perfect counterbalance to the Snug Cable Pattern… it adds visual interest without competing with the cables, and it keeps the fabric from curling at the edges.

Can I substitute the wool bamboo yarn?

Yes, and you’ll need to since Classic Elite Wool Bam Boo has been discontinued. Look for a sport weight (CYCA #2) yarn with similar drape. My top picks are Knit Picks Galileo, Berroco Ultra Alpaca Light, and HiKoo Sueno… all linked above in the Yarn Substitutes section. Always work a gauge swatch before committing to a substitute, especially with cables.

How long does it take to knit this shawl?

It depends on your knitting pace, but expect several evenings or a couple of relaxed weeks of knitting. The early rows go quickly, and the later rows are longer (more stitches) but very rhythmic once the cable pattern becomes second nature. This is the kind of project that’s beautiful to work on in the evenings with a good show.

Do I need a cable needle?

A cable needle is recommended, especially for the 2/1/2 RC and 2/1/2 LC stitches that move three stitches at a time. Experienced knitters can cable without one for the 2/2 crosses… I have a tutorial linked above in the Video Tutorials section if you want to try.

Is this shawl wearable year-round?

Yes. The bamboo content keeps it breathable for spring and summer, while the wool content adds enough warmth for fall and winter layering. It’s the kind of accessory that lives in your bag and bridges the seasons beautifully.

Eowyn cable knit shawl ad-free PDF mockup with finished navy blue textured shawl.
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💛 Final Thoughts

This free cable knit shawl pattern is one of those pieces that feels timeless… textured without being overwhelming, structured without being stiff, and cozy without being bulky.

If you’ve been looking for a free triangle shawl knitting pattern that actually teaches you something while still being relaxing to knit… this is it. Cast on, take it slow, trust your stitch markers, and enjoy the rhythm of the cables.

I can’t wait to see your finished Eowyn shawl. Tag me on Instagram @themarlybird or share it in the Marly Bird Community on Facebook… I love seeing what you make.

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

A cartoon avatar of a person with glasses and a brown bun smiles warmly. Their green shirt and black jacket add a stylish touch, while colorful hearts surround them like loving temperature blankets, stitching together an aura of love and positivity. -Marly Bird

Blood of My Blood Shawl: Free Outlander Knit Shawl Pattern

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The Blood of My Blood Shawl is a free Outlander-inspired knit shawl pattern featuring a dramatic half-hexagon silhouette, intertwined cables and lace, and a romantic nod to Claire and Jamie Fraser’s wedding vows in Diana Gabaldon’s Outlander.

Worked center-out on US 4 needles in lace weight yarn, available in three sizes (S/M/L) with wingspans from 56½ to 68 inches. Skill level: adventurous beginner.

“Ye are Blood of my Blood, and Bone of my Bone.” If you know, you know. The Blood of My Blood Shawl is my free knit shawl pattern for every Outlander fan who has ever cried at a wedding scene (just me? okay, just me). And yes… the timing of the new Blood of My Blood Outlander prequel series on Starz could not be more perfect.

Whether you’re rewatching Claire and Jamie’s love story or diving into the new prequel about Brian and Ellen Fraser (Jamie’s parents) and Henry and Julia Beauchamp (Claire’s parents), this shawl is your fandom uniform. ❤️

Inspired by Claire and Jamie’s vows from Diana Gabaldon’s beloved series, this half-hexagon shawl pairs intertwined cables with delicate lace… a stitch-level symbol of two lives woven together.

A bright red knit Outlander shawl with visible stitch detail is spread wide across the back of a person facing a stone wall.

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and it helps keep these free patterns coming straight from my yarn-loving heart to yours. 💛

🌸 Spring Fling 2026 Kickoff Pattern: The Blood of My Blood Knit Shawl debuted as Day 1 of Spring Fling 2026, my 20-day knit and crochet pattern celebration. Cast on, share your progress, and tag me @themarlybird with #BloodOfMyBloodShawl + #SpringFling2026 to be featured. Bookish-knitter shoutouts always make my newsletter ❤️🏴

Hey, bestie 💛

If you’ve ever finished an Outlander book and immediately needed to cast on something wool, tartan-adjacent, and slightly dramatic… welcome home. This shawl is for you. It’s for the Outlander reader. It’s for the Starz viewer. It’s for anyone who has ever thought “I’d like to look like I stepped out of 1743 but, you know, still have WiFi.” And here’s something I rarely share: I got to interview Diana Gabaldon herself on my podcast back in 2014, and she was every bit as warm and brilliant as her books are. If you want to hear our conversation, it’s still right here on the blog.

Now let’s talk about this shawl.

Woman models a red lace-knit shawl with delicate openwork texture, worn over a white top; shown outdoors.

What You Will Love About This Pattern 💖

🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 It’s a love letter to Outlander fans (including the new Blood of My Blood prequel series). The name comes straight from Claire and Jamie’s marriage vows, and the intertwined cables and lace represent two lives woven into one. If you are an Outlander reader, a Starz Outlander viewer, or a fan of the new Blood of My Blood Outlander prequel, this shawl was made for you.

🦋 The half-hexagon shape has serious wingspan. At 56½ to 68 inches wide (depending on size), this shawl wraps, drapes, and absolutely makes an entrance. It’s the kind of shawl you want on your shoulders when something dramatic is about to happen.

🧶 It’s written in three sizes. Small, Medium, and Large. You get to pick the wingspan that feels right for your frame and your vibe.

✨ The body is garter stitch (meditative) and the edging is cables + lace (stunning). You get hours of easy knit-every-row flow followed by a dramatic finishing section that will make you feel like an heirloom knitter.

📚 It’s perfect for bingeing the books or the show. The garter body is ideal for reading-while-knitting. Cue up Outlander Season 1 Episode 7 and cast on.

Woman models a red Blood of My Blood shawl, knit in textured yarn, over a white sweater, seated by a stone wall.

Quick Pattern Overview

🎯 Skill Level: Confident beginner. If you can knit, purl, YO, k2tog, ssk, and you’re willing to try a simple 2/2 cable, you’ve got this.

📏 Finished Size: S (M, L). Wingspan: 56½ (62½, 68) inches. Maximum depth: 24 (26½, 29) inches.

🧶 Yarn: 2 (2, 3) balls of lace weight silk blend, originally Bijou Basin Ranch Shangri La (now discontinued… see substitute options below).

🪡 Needles: US 4 (3.5mm) circular, 32″ or longer.

📐 Gauge: 24 sts = 4 inches in garter stitch. Precise gauge is not essential… but it will affect total yarn yardage.

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A woman with glasses and curly hair models a colorful crocheted scarf, showing textured stitches and vibrant yarn.

Is This Knit Shawl Right for You?

This pattern is a perfect fit if you want a project that feels meaningful but isn’t technically overwhelming. The body is garter stitch center-out construction (knit every row, with simple yarn-over increases at the sides and center spine). That means hours of meditative knitting while you binge Outlander or re-read Dragonfly in Amber for the seventh time.

The cables-and-lace edging IS more involved… but it’s also short (just 48-72 rows), well-charted, and every row is either working the 12-row pattern repeat or purling/knitting back. If you can follow a chart and count, you can absolutely do this.

If you’ve never cabled before, don’t panic. I’ve got a quick video for the 2/2 Right Cable used in this pattern. Two minutes of watching, and you’ll have it. Truly.

✨ Designer Tip: The garter body is the perfect “movie knitting” section. Cast on and watch Outlander Season 1, then switch to the cables-and-lace edging when you need something that requires focus. Time yourself… you will almost certainly finish the body by the end of Season 2. (Don’t quote me on that. But maybe.)
Bright red Outlander shawl in a textured knit drapes over a white sweater; worn by a woman outdoors with blurred greenery.

Explore More Knit Shawl Patterns

The Blood of My Blood Shawl is part of my growing collection of free knit shawl patterns. Browse the full Knit Shawl Patterns hub to find every free shawl organized by shape, season, and skill level.

If you love this one, you’ll probably also love:

Green Boomerang Knit Shawl draped over shoulders, showing textured stitches and neat edges in a bright, creative space.
Return to Me Boomerang Shawl
A person wears a textured, bright orange knitted scarf styled like the Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl, with yarn shelves in the background.
Lehabah Fire Sprite Boomerang Shawl
Person models a blue and yellow Tunisian crochet scarf with bold stripes, highlighting stitch texture and drape.
Make It Mine Triangle Shawl
Teal, gray, and beige Outlander knit shawl with textured stitches, modeled indoors by a woman with curly hair and glasses.
Tilted Blocks Half Circle Knit Shawl
Person models a green knit scarf with textured stitches, inspired by a one ball shawl pattern, paired with a denim jacket.
Peak Serenity Right Triangle Knit Shawl

What Is a Half-Hexagon Shawl, Anyway?

Great question. A half-hexagon shawl is a shawl shape worked from a small center point outward, with shaping placed at set “spokes” rather than evenly around a curve. Instead of forming a smooth half-circle, the increases create three flat edges that meet at angles… giving the finished shawl a structured, geometric silhouette with crisp angular lines.

Compared to a traditional triangle or a boomerang, the half-hexagon shape has a more even drape across both shoulders and gives you that dramatic wingspan when your arms are outstretched. It is also incredibly flattering on every body type because the angled construction sits across your shoulders without bulk and creates clean, modern lines that stand out from rounder shawl shapes.

The Blood of My Blood is a half-hexagon worked center-out, which means you cast on just 3 stitches, increase rapidly in the first few rows, then settle into an easy garter rhythm with regular increases at four shaping points (two edges + two center spine stitches). Those four shaping points are what give the shawl its angular half-hexagon outline… which, not for nothing, looks incredible spread across a castle wall or a Scottish moor. Just saying.

A bright red Blood of My Blood knit shawl with visible texture drapes over a person, displayed outdoors on a wooden path.

Build Your Skills with This Shawl

Even as an adventurous beginner project, Blood of My Blood gives you a handful of skills worth locking in. You’ll practice center-out half-hexagon construction, working yarn-over increases at multiple points, reading from a chart, working a simple cable, and blocking a large lace-edged shawl to its final dramatic silhouette.

Need a refresher on any of the abbreviations? My knitting definitions page has every term you’ll see in this pattern. Brand new to knitting or want to build your foundation before casting on? Start with my BiCrafty Bootcamp: Learn to Knit… it’s where all my beginners start.

Want to go deeper into shawl knitting techniques like lace edgings, short row shaping, and advanced blocking? Come join me live at BiCrafty Stitch-Nite at Marly Bird House… that is where I teach the skills that turn a beginner into a shawl lover for life.

Marly Bird models a textured green knit boomerang shawl with bold stitch definition, worn over a black top in a cozy room.

Yarn & Materials (Plus Substitute Yarns Because the Original Is Discontinued)

The original Blood of My Blood Shawl was designed in Bijou Basin Ranch Shangri La, a luxurious 50% silk / 50% yak down lace-weight yarn in the colorway Ruby. It was gorgeous. It also… is no longer being made 😭. So let’s talk substitutes.

What to look for in a substitute: a CYCA #0 lace weight yarn with approximately 400 yards per 2-ounce ball. Silk content gives you that drape and subtle sheen the original is known for. A merino/silk blend is an excellent (and more budget-friendly) replacement. Pure silk gives you maximum drape and luxe feel. A silk/mohair or silk/alpaca blend gives you that halo-y, ethereal look that’s very Claire-coming-home-through-the-stones.

My six recommended substitutes, from closest match to the original to fun alternatives worth considering:

  • 🥇 KnitPicks Gloss Lace… 70% merino / 30% silk, lace weight. The closest substitute to the original Shangri La in fiber blend and drape. This is my top pick.
  • 🥈 Malabrigo Silkpaca… 70% baby alpaca / 30% silk, lace weight. A luxe hand-dyed option with that dreamy halo. The baby alpaca content adds softness and warmth while the silk gives it shine. Gorgeous in a deep red.
  • 🥉 KnitPicks Luminance Lace… 100% silk, lace weight. Maximum sheen and drape if you want to really lean into the heirloom vibe.
  • ✨ Dream in Color Smooshy Cashmere… for the ultimate softness splurge. If you want this shawl to feel like a Jamie hug (I said what I said), the cashmere content is unmatched.
  • ☁️ KnitPicks Alpaca Cloud Lace… 100% alpaca, lace weight. Incredibly soft and drapey with a subtle halo. A beautiful budget-friendly option.
  • 📐 KnitPicks Gloss Fingering… 70% merino / 30% silk, fingering weight (not lace). Use this if you want a slightly larger shawl with more body. You’ll need to adjust your yardage and will end up with a more substantial fabric than the original lace weight version. Great option if lace weight feels intimidating.

For the lace weight options (Gloss Lace, Silkpaca, Luminance, Smooshy Cashmere, Alpaca Cloud), you’ll need approximately 800-1200 yards depending on your size (two or three skeins). For the Gloss Fingering option, aim for 1000-1400 yards since the fabric will be slightly denser and the shawl slightly larger. When in doubt, buy a little extra… running out on row 300 of a garter body is a form of heartbreak I do not recommend.

Needles: US 4 (3.5mm) circular, 32 inches or longer. I shop my KnitPicks needles for projects like this because you can grab exactly the size and length you need (and interchangeable sets are the ultimate shawl-knitter upgrade… trust me).

Notions for blocking: Blocking wires are ideal for the straight edges of a lace-edged shawl and make a massive difference in your finished result. If you don’t already have them, grab a set of blocking wires… they are a forever investment in your knitting toolkit.

I also swear by Eucalan Wool Wash (no-rinse, conditions your yarn as it cleans, and the scent is my favorite)… perfect for wet-blocking a silk-blend shawl. And if you’re working from hand-dyed hanks, a ball winder and swift will save you from tangled-yarn rage every single time.

✨ Designer Tip: Because this shawl is worked in lace weight yarn, it wants to GROW when you block it. The original sample could have stretched to 5XL if I let it. Be aggressive about pinning to your target measurements and gentle about stretching… superwash silk yarns especially can relax and keep relaxing. Check the schematic before you pin.
A woman outdoors models a red lace-knit shawl over a white sweater, showing its lightweight texture and openwork stitch detail.

Video Tutorials

If you are a visual learner, these videos will walk you through every technique in the pattern:

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Blood of My Blood Shawl — Pattern Details

Skill Level

Adventurous Beginner

Measurements

To Fit Sizes: S (M, L)

Finished Measurements:
Wingspan: 56½ (62½, 68)” [143.5 (159, 172.5) cm]
Maximum Depth: 24 (26½, 29)” [61 (67.5, 73.5) cm]

Gauge

24 sts = 4″ [10 cm] in garter stitch (knit every row).

Note: Precise gauge is not essential for this item, but may affect total yarn amounts required.

Materials

Yarn: 2 (2, 3) balls of lace weight yarn (CYCA #0), approximately 400 yds / 366 m per 2 oz / 57 g ball. Original yarn: Bijou Basin Ranch Shangri La (50% silk / 50% yak down) in Ruby… now discontinued. See substitute yarn recommendations above.

Needles: US 4 [3.5mm] 32″ [81.5 cm] or longer circular needle, or size to obtain gauge.

Note: Shawl is worked back and forth in rows. Circular needles are used to accommodate the full width of the stitches.

Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, scissors, tape measure, stitch saver cord, cable needle, notions bag, blocking squares, blocking pins, soaking basin, wool wash (I love Eucalan), blocking wires (ideal for lace work), ball winder and swift (great for yarn that comes in hanks), and a steamer.

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Abbreviations

  • 2/2 RC – 2/2 Right Cable (see Cable Stitches)
  • CDD – Center Double Decrease (see Special Stitches)
  • K – Knit
  • K2tog – Knit Two Together
  • P – Purl
  • Pm – Place Marker
  • RS – Right Side
  • S2kp – Slip 2, Knit, Pass (see Special Stitches)
  • Slm – Slip Marker
  • Ssk – Slip, Slip, Knit (see Special Stitches)
  • St(s) – Stitch(es)
  • WS – Wrong Side
  • YO – Yarn Over

Special Stitches

⭐ Center Double Decrease (CDD): Slip next 2 stitches knitwise at the same time, knit next stitch, pass slipped stitches over knit stitch (same as S2kp) — 2 stitches decreased.

⭐ Slip, Slip, Knit (Ssk): Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, as if to knit. Insert left needle into the front of these 2 stitches and knit them together from this position — 1 stitch decreased.

⭐ Flat Slip, Slip, Knit (Flat Ssk):
Note: This is an alternate ssk method that lies flatter and looks more similar to a reversed k2tog.
Insert needle in front leg of next st but do not knit it, insert needle in back leg of second st on left needle, yarn over and knit both of these sts together (1 st decreased).

Cable Stitches

⭐ 2/2 RC (2/2 Right Cable): Slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in back, knit 2 stitches from left needle, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle.

Stitch Pattern: Cables and Lace

Worked over a multiple of 17 sts plus 3 (minimum 37 sts).

Row 1 (RS): K1, k2tog, k2, YO, * p1, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, YO, k2, CDD, k2, YO; repeat from * to last 15 sts, p1, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, YO, k2, ssk, k1.
Row 2 (and all WS rows): P5, k3, p4, k3, * p7, k3, p4, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.
Row 3: K1, k2tog, k1, YO, k1, * p1, k1, p1, 2/2 RC, [p1, k1] twice, YO, k1, CDD, k1, YO, k1; repeat from * to last 15 sts, p1, k1, p1, 2/2 RC, [p1, k1] twice, YO, k1, ssk, k1.
Row 4: P5, k3, p4, k3, * p7, k3, p4, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.
Row 5: K1, k2tog, YO, k2, * p1, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, k2, YO, CDD, YO, k2; repeat from * to last 15 sts, p1, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, k2, YO, ssk, k1.
Row 6: P5, k3, p4, k3, * p7, k3, p4, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.
Row 7: K1, k2tog, k2, YO, * p1, k1, p1, 2/2 RC, p1, k1, p1, YO, k2, CDD, k2, YO; repeat from * to last 15 sts, p1, k1, p1, 2/2 RC, p1, k1, p1, YO, k2, ssk, k1.
Row 8: P5, k3, p4, k3, * p7, k3, p4, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.
Row 9: K1, k2tog, k1, YO, k1, * p1, k1, p1, k4, [p1, k1] twice, YO, k1, CDD, k1, YO, k1; repeat from * to last 15 sts, p1, k1, p1, k4, [p1, k1] twice, YO, k1, ssk, k1.
Row 10: P5, k3, p4, k3, * p7, k3, p4, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.
Row 11: K1, k2tog, YO, k2, * p1, k1, p1, 2/2 RC, p1, k1, p1, k2, YO, CDD, YO, k2; repeat from * to last 15 sts, p1, k1, p1, 2/2 RC, p1, k1, p1, k2, YO, ssk, k1.
Row 12: P5, k3, p4, k3, * p7, k3, p4, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts, p5.

Repeat Rows 1-12 for Cables and Lace pattern.

Charts

⭐️Charts for this pattern are available in the ad-free pdf only! Upgrade to the pdf for an uninterrupted knitting experience and get full written pattern, charts, links to stitch fiddle charts.

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Schematic

Diagram of the Blood of My Blood knit shawl shape, showing top, side, and height measurements for sizing.
Trapezoidal shawl with three color-coded dimensions, textured stitches visible, inspired by Blood of My Blood Shawl design.

Notes

Directions are for the smallest size; changes for larger sizes are in parentheses. When only one number is given, that number applies to all sizes.

Shawl is worked from center top outward, using yarn-over increases to grow the fabric.

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A bright red knit lace shawl with an airy stitch pattern is draped over a white sweater, shown against a stone wall.

Blood of My Blood Shawl — Pattern Instructions

Body

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1 (RS): K1, YO, k1, YO, k1.
Count: 5 sts (+2 sts increased)

Row 2: Knit.
Row 3 (increase row, RS): K1, YO, k to last st, YO, k1.
Count: 7 sts (+2 sts increased)

Row 4: Knit.
Row 5 (increase row, RS): [K1, YO] twice, pm, [k1, YO] twice, k1, pm, [YO, k1] twice.
Count: 13 sts (+6 sts increased)
Count: 5 sts in center section, 4 sts in each outer section.
Note: The center section of the Body will always have 1 more st than each outer section.

Rows 6-8: Knit.
Row 9 (increase row, RS): K1, YO, k to marker, YO, slm, k1, YO, k to last st before marker, YO, k1, slm, YO, k to last st, YO, k1.
Count: 19 sts (+6 sts increased)
Count: 7 sts in center section, 6 sts in each outer section.

Repeat Rows 6-9 only 45 (48, 51) more times.
Count: 289 (307, 325) sts (+ 270 (288, 306) sts increased)
Count: 97 (103, 109) sts in center section, 96 (102, 108) sts in each outer section.

Remove all increase markers.

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Transition Rows

Rows 1-3 (begin WS): Knit.

Place 1 (2, 3) decrease markers evenly placed across needle.

Row 4 (RS): [K1, YO] twice, * k to marker, slm, k2tog; repeat from * for each marker, k to last 2 sts, [YO, k1] twice.
Count: 292 (309, 326) sts (+ 3 (2, 1) sts increased)

Remove all decrease markers.

Row 5 (WS): Knit.

Red knit shawl with lacy scalloped edges, draped over white textured fabric, showing stitch detail and texture.

Edging

Work 48 (60, 72) rows evenly in Cables and Lace pattern.

Bind off all stitches loosely.

✨ Designer Tip: Put a lifeline in right before you start the Cables and Lace edging. If you miscross a cable three rows into the 12-row repeat, you’ll thank yourself. New to lifelines? Watch my quick tutorial.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends.

Large red knit shawl with lace stitch detail displayed against a stone wall, showing texture and drape.

Blocking Tips

Wet blocking is like sending your yarn on a spa retreat. It is the step where your yarn unwinds, enjoys a soothing cleanse, and settles gracefully into its final form, allowing its true beauty to flourish. Do not skip this step. I’m serious. A lace-edged shawl looks like crumpled fabric before blocking and like heirloom magic after.

Submerge your piece in a basin or sink filled with cool water. Add a touch of wool wash (I love Eucalan… no rinsing required, and the lanolin conditions the yarn).

Let it soak 20 minutes… no agitation, just let it drink.

Remove excess water without stretching or distorting the fibers. Press the piece against the basin. Gently squeeze between your hands (no twisting, no wringing). Always support the entire garment when lifting to prevent any part from stretching out of shape.

Lay the piece on a large towel without stretching it. Fold the towel’s ends over your knitting and roll it up like a burrito to wick away more moisture. Aim for damp, not sopping… and definitely not dry.

Place your piece on the blocking board, aligning with the grid if your board has one. Gently expand to the desired wingspan and depth measurements, using the schematic for precision. 🚨 Use extra care to avoid overstretching.

Secure with pins, using them sparingly. Smooth the piece with your hands to ensure an even spread, then shape it while damp. Let your masterpiece dry completely (could take a full day… setting up a fan speeds it up). 🚨 Do not place the project in direct sunlight as it can discolor the yarn.

Want a deeper dive on blocking? Check out my full tutorial on Steam Blocking vs Wet Blocking… especially useful when you’re working with silk blends.

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More Outlander-Inspired Ideas for Fellow Fans 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Watching the new Outlander prequel? 📺 The Blood of My Blood Outlander prequel series follows the love stories of Brian and Ellen Fraser (Jamie’s parents) and Henry and Julia Beauchamp (Claire’s parents). If you’ve been binge-watching, this shawl pattern was practically made to be your prequel-watching project. Cast on, settle in, and let the love stories unfold.

Would you love more Outlander-inspired patterns? A Sassenach-worthy cowl? A Claire-style capelet? A Jamie-inspired cabled hat? Tell me in the comments which character or scene you would love me to design next… your vote shapes what I design. 💛

Want a Pashmina-style Outlander shawl right now? Check out my Kat Pashmina Shawl on Ravelry (also available as a video tutorial pattern on Etsy, and inside the BiCrafty Stitch-Nite collection at Marly Bird House). Lace knit shawl with full video walkthroughs.

Gray lace-patterned knitted Blood of My Blood Shawl shown worn over black blouse, highlighting stitch detail and drape.
Sassenach Capelet
Woman models a striped knit shawl, inspired by Outlander, over a denim jacket in a cozy room with bookshelves and plants.
Lallybroch Shawl
Blue knit hat and fingerless gloves set, featuring textured stitches, modeled with a denim jacket against a brick wall.
MacTavish Hat & Fingerless Mitts
Woman modeling a brown knitted Blood of My Blood shawl with brooch and matching wrist warmers, showing stitch details.
Apothecary Cowl and Wristlets

And if you missed my 2014 podcast interview with Diana Gabaldon herself, it is sadly no longer available. She is every bit as warm and brilliant as her books. I even got a chance to meet her in 2015 at a book signing.

Diana Gabaldon and Marly Bird at a book signing for Outlander

Favorite & Queue on Ravelry

Please favorite and queue the Blood of My Blood Shawl on Ravelry and tag your finished projects #BloodOfMyBloodShawl so I can see them. Seeing your color choices and blocking shots is the best part of my week… and Outlander-red projects? Absolute catnip.

Favorite This Pattern on Ravelry - Marly Bird

More Knit Shawl Patterns You’ll Love

Or browse the full Knit Shawl Patterns hub for every free shawl on the blog, sorted by shape, season, and skill level. Want to branch out beyond shawls? Check out my full library of free knit and crochet patterns.

A smiling person models an Outlander knit shawl, showing textured stitches, in front of a “FAQs” banner and craft-themed icons.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Outlander quote is this shawl named after?

The name comes from Claire and Jamie’s wedding vows in Chapter 14 of Outlander by Diana Gabaldon: “Ye are Blood of my Blood, and Bone of my Bone. I give ye my Body, that we Two might be One. I give ye my Spirit, ’til our Life shall be Done.” The intertwined cables and lace in the edging are my stitch-level tribute to those two lives woven into one.

What shape is this shawl?

It is a half-hexagon shawl, worked center-out with yarn-over increases at two edges and along a center spine. The four shaping points create three angular edges that meet to form a half-hexagon outline… a wide, geometric wingspan that drapes beautifully across both shoulders and feels distinctly different from a triangle, crescent, or boomerang.

The original yarn is discontinued. What should I substitute?

My top pick is KnitPicks Gloss Lace (70% merino / 30% silk) for the closest match to the original. For a luxe upgrade, try Malabrigo Silkpaca (baby alpaca + silk with a dreamy halo) or Dream in Color Smooshy Cashmere for maximum softness. Budget-friendly options: KnitPicks Alpaca Cloud (100% alpaca) or Luminance Lace (100% silk). Want a slightly larger, more substantial shawl? Use Gloss Fingering instead of lace weight.

Can I really do this as a beginner?

Honestly… yes, if you are an adventurous beginner who is willing to try a simple cable. The body is 100% garter stitch (knit every row) with easy yarn-over increases. The only “advanced” section is the 48-72 row cables-and-lace edging, which is a 12-row repeat you will quickly memorize. If you’ve never cabled before, my 2/2 RC video is two minutes long and you will have it.

How long will this take me?

The garter body is the longest section. Most knitters finish the full shawl in 30-60 hours, depending on size and your knitting speed. If you knit while watching TV (hello, Outlander binge), you can finish the body in one season of the show. The edging is shorter but slower because of the cables.

Do I really need blocking wires?

You don’t absolutely need them, but for a large lace-edged shawl like this one, they transform the finishing process. They give you perfectly straight edges and dramatically reduce the number of pins you need. If you’re going to invest in one piece of blocking equipment, wires are it.

Do you have other Outlander-inspired patterns?

This is my flagship Outlander design so far, and I loved creating it so much that I want to do more. If you have a specific character or scene you’d love to see in a knit or crochet pattern, drop a comment below or grab the newsletter… your votes shape what I design next. And if you missed my 2014 podcast interview with Diana Gabaldon herself, it is absolutely worth a listen.

Is this shawl related to the Blood of My Blood Outlander prequel TV series?

Great question! I designed this shawl years ago, named after the iconic Outlander wedding vow (“Ye are Blood of my Blood…”), long before the Blood of My Blood Outlander prequel series was announced on Starz. The naming is pure happy coincidence… and now the timing feels meant to be! The shawl is inspired by the vow itself, which carries through the entire Outlander universe (the books, the original series, AND the prequel). So whether you’re an Outlander book reader, a Claire and Jamie fan, or you’re loving the new prequel about Brian and Ellen Fraser and Henry and Julia Beauchamp… this shawl belongs in your hands. 🏴

Where can I get the ad-free PDF?

On Etsy, Shopify, or Ravelry. Same pattern, same price on all three… pick your favorite shop. Your purchase supports me as an indie designer and keeps the free patterns coming. 💛

A woman models the Blood of My Blood shawl, showcasing its textured stitching and drape outdoors among green trees.

Final Thoughts

I’ve been an Outlander reader for a long time. Diana Gabaldon’s books were some of the first that made me cry, laugh, and immediately want to knit something in response. Blood of My Blood is my tribute to that feeling… to a love story told in stitches instead of words, to lives woven together in cables and lace.

Whether you’re making this for yourself, for your favorite Outlander friend, or just because you need a dramatic half-hexagon shawl to throw over a white linen dress in your garden (yes please)… cast on. And if you post a finished project, please, please tag me @marlybird or use #BloodOfMyBloodShawl. I want to see every version in every color.

Sláinte, bestie. Go knit something beautiful. 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Love, Your BiCrafty Bestie, Marly Bird

Marly Bird Bitmoji with rainbow hearts

Free Knit Triangle Shawl Pattern (Worsted Weight) – Mariposa Textured Shawl

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The Mariposa Textured Triangle Shawl is a free intermediate knit triangle shawl pattern in worsted weight yarn… a top-down design with four progressive textured stitch sections, yarn-over increases that create a subtle lace spine, and a bold applied border. Worked on US 9 needles, this knit shawl is warm, wearable, and ideal for crafters ready to stretch their skills with focus and rhythm.

📝 Updated May 7, 2026: Voice and framework refresh… added an AI summary, expanded the FAQ with deeper answers + schema markup, refreshed yarn substitute notes, and tucked in the standard Marly sign-off.

Knitting a textured triangle shawl in worsted weight yarn is one of the most satisfying ways to challenge your skills while creating a warm, wearable piece. The Mariposa Shawl is a top-down intermediate knit triangle shawl pattern originally designed as the “Be Quiet, I’m Knitting” concentration level from the first Tournament of Stitches in 2018.

If you love projects that require focus, reward attention to detail, and result in a cozy, snuggle-worthy shawl you’ll actually wear… this one is for you. 🦋

Hey, bestie 💛 If you love knit shawls, you should check out my entire collection of knit shawl patterns here on my website.

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through one of these links I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and you get to support this yarn-loving heart while I keep the free patterns coming. Thank you!

Bright knit shawl in pink, yellow, and green chevrons; worsted weight yarn. Mariposa Chic Knit Triangle Shawl.

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. To learn more please visit my privacy policy here💖

What You Will Love About This Pattern 💖

  • A true top-down triangle shawl construction
  • Four progressive textured stitch sections
  • Yarn-over increases creating a subtle lace spine
  • A bold applied border worked perpendicular to the body
  • Warm, cushy worsted weight fabric
  • Customizable color possibilities
  • Designed for knitters ready to stretch their skills

✨ Designer Note: This is a “Be Quiet, I’m Knitting” project. There are moments where you’ll want to pause the movie, count carefully, and trust your stitches. And that’s part of the magic.

Mariposa knit shawl pattern by Marly Bird shown with colorful striped triangle shawl and ad-free PDF knitting pattern pages
Download the ad-free PDF for the Mariposa Knit Shawl knitting pattern by Marly Bird.
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Marly Bird wears a colorful knit triangle shawl pattern called Mariposa Chic Knit Triangle Shawl -- free pattern with an ad-free pdf available for purchase.

Quick Pattern Overview

Skill Level: Intermediate (strong intermediate skills recommended)
Concentration Level: Be Quiet, I’m Knitting 🎧
Construction: Top-down triangle
Sections: Four distinct textured stitch patterns
Border: Applied border worked off live stitches
Yarn Weight: Worsted (#4)

Finished Size (excluding border):

  • Wingspan: 70” (178 cm)
  • Depth: 34–35” (86–89 cm)

This is not an all-over lace shawl.
It is not garter stitch.

It is a textured knit triangle shawl combining stockinette, knit-purl texture, lace elements, shaping increases, and decreases… all working together to create something visually rich and structurally strong.

Smiling person models a knitted triangle shawl with bright pink, lime green, and gray stripes; colorful yarn shelves behind.

About This Knit Triangle Shawl

Mariposa is a true top-down triangle shawl worked from a traditional garter tab cast-on and shaped with consistent edge and center increases.

The triangular shaping remains the same throughout the body.
What changes is the internal stitch pattern.

This allows you to:

  • Build skill progressively
  • Maintain consistent shaping
  • Focus on texture without worrying about fit
  • Create dramatic wingspan with balanced proportions

If you’re curious about different shawl constructions, you may also enjoy:
👉 https://marlybird.com/blog/make-it-mine-knit-shawl/

7 Ways to Wear a Knit Shawl (Video Tutorial)

A quick knitting tutorial showing 7 different ways to wear a knit shawl using the Mari Shawl pattern by Marly Bird. This versatile knit accessory can be styled as a scarf, wrap, or layering piece. Includes a free knit shawl pattern and styling inspiration for knitters.

The Story Behind the Mariposa Shawl 🦋

Mariposa was part of the very first Tournament of Stitches in 2018.

Tournament of Stitches (TOS) is a month-long, skill-building make-along presented every two years. Participants choose their concentration level… from relaxed “Social Butterfly”, to TV knitting with “Netflix and Chill“, to soothing music for “Smooth Jazz”, and finally the ultimate focus concentration level of “Be Quiet, I’m Knitting”.

Mariposa represents the ultimate focused concentration level from that inaugural year.

Each section:

  • Maintains consistent triangle shaping
  • Introduces a different stitch pattern
  • Intentionally builds skill
  • Expands confidence
Striped shawl in pink, lime green, and gray yarn shows intricate stitch detail. Shawl is laid beside a tray of pink flowers.

The original sample was worked in a single color. Later, I explored a multi-color version… because you know I love options.

You can:

  • Knit it in one cohesive shade
  • Fade colors between sections
  • Use stash yarn creatively
  • Change colors more frequently than I did

This design was built to stretch your skills — not break your spirit.

Learn more about Tournament of Stitches here:
👉 https://marlybird.com/blog/tournament-of-stitches-mystery-make-along/

The Applied Border — Why It’s Different

The Mariposa border is worked perpendicular to the shawl body.

Instead of binding off and picking up later, you work stitches off the live shawl stitches as you knit the border.

This technique:

  • Requires attention to stitch placement
  • Requires comfort picking up and joining stitches
  • Creates a structured architectural finish
  • Elevates the final look dramatically

It isn’t complicated because it’s confusing.
It’s intermediate because it requires presence.

Worsted Weight Yarn Shawl – Too Big or Just Right?

I love knitting shawls in worsted weight yarn.

It works up faster.
It creates bold stitch definition.
It feels warm and cushy.
It becomes a true winter accessory.

This is not a delicate spring wrap.

This is a warm knit triangle shawl that wraps you up and says,
“Yes. I meant to make this dramatic.”

Too big?

Not at all.

Just right.

🧵 Yarn Details (Including Substitutions!)

Originally designed with Red Heart Chic Sheep by Marly Bird™, a 100% merino wool worsted-weight yarn.

Since Chic Sheep has been discontinued, excellent substitutes include:

• Malabrigo Rios
https://tidd.ly/49VZcW1

• Berroco Ultra Wool
https://tidd.ly/4pSjENv

• Swish Worsted
https://tidd.ly/4qL6Zxt

• Cascade 220 Superwash
https://tidd.ly/4afBG7B

• Madelinetosh Tosh Vintage
https://tidd.ly/4rgPp3P

When substituting, look for:

Strong stitch definition

Worsted weight (#4)

Merino wool or soft wool blend

🧶 Knitting Needles & Notions

Regarding the knitting needles needed for this knit shawl pattern: I suggest using longer circular knitting needles for this project to accommodate the number of stitches. It is not uncommon for triangle shawl knitters to start with a 24″ circular needle then transition to a longer 32″ circular needle when the stitches become too cramped on the previous size.

Especially when you are working with a worsted weight yarn for the shawl as it is thicker and takes up more space.

There are some shawl knitters who prefer to just begin with the longer needles an don’t mind the extra long cord length…but that does annoy others.

For that reason, I am recommending a US 9 (5.5mm) 24” [60 cm], 32″ [80 cm] circular or longer; or size to obtain accurate gauge.

As for the notions: These are items that many knitters have in their toolkit but it is important that they are listed just in case there happens to be something you don’t have. This is a list of all the notions I used to not only knit the shawl but to complete the finishing.

You can click any of the items to view what I recommend or check out my Amazon storefront and get ideas for other items.

⭐️ Marly Bird Amazon Storefront ⭐️

Shawl Gauge — Does It Matter?

Gauge for this knit shawl is 18 sts = 4” (10 cm) in stockinette stitch, unblocked

Because this is not a fitted garment, gauge is forgiving.

However, gauge matters if:

  • You want the exact finished size
  • You have limited yardage
  • You want border alignment to match
  • You want the same drape

Gauge is measured in stockinette stitch only.

Even though multiple stitch patterns are used, achieving gauge in stockinette ensures proportional accuracy throughout the design.

Don’t ignore gauge entirely… unless you want a tablecloth… or a bandana. 😉

Skill Expectations — Let’s Be Honest

This is not beginner-friendly.

You should feel confident with:

  • Yarn overs
  • Decreases (SSK, K2tog)
  • Reading stitch patterns
  • Counting stitches
  • Managing pattern repeats

There will be moments when distractions are not your friend.

And that’s okay.

Knitting is just sticks and string.

With patience, focus, and grace for yourself, you can absolutely knit this shawl.

Use lifelines.
Mark your repeats.
Trust your stitches.

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BEFORE YOU BEGIN

This shawl requires focused counting during shaping and lace sections.

You will:

• Increase 4 stitches on designated rows
• Maintain a center stitch
• Track stitch counts carefully at section transitions
• Join the border as you go

I strongly recommend placing stitch markers exactly as instructed and inserting lifelines before major stitch pattern changes.

This is not a background-movie project. This is a “lean in and enjoy the rhythm” project.

Bright knit shawl in pink, yellow, and green chevrons; worsted weight yarn. Mariposa Chic Knit Triangle Shawl.

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Mariposa Chic Knit Triangle Shawl Pattern Details

SKILL LEVEL

Strong Intermediate to Advanced

This pattern includes multiple stitch patterns, lace elements, shaping increases, and a joined border. Focus is required during shaping and lace sections.

Concentration Level
Smooth Jazz → BE QUIET I’M KNITTING 🎧

MEASUREMENTS

Finished Measurements
Wingspan: 70” [178 cm]
Depth: 34–35” [86–89 cm]

Measurements do not include border edging.
These are flexible depending on how large you block the piece.

A woman displays a knit shawl in pink, yellow, and gray stripes; textured worsted yarn. Yarn shelves appear in the background.

Gauge
18 sts = 4″ in stockinette stitch (unblocked)

Gauge taken in stockinette stitch only.

Although the shawl contains multiple stitch patterns, stockinette gauge will produce correct proportional sizing across the design.

MATERIALS

Yarn used in sample
Red Heart Chic Sheep by Marly Bird™  [Art. R170 100% Merino Wool available 3.5 oz (100 g), 186 yd (170 m) balls, CYC size 4 yarn];

  • 1 ball Fairy Tale
  • 1 ball Velvet
  • 2 balls Green Tea
  • 3 balls of Sangria
    Prefer the shawl is one color?
    • 7 balls of any one color

Needles
9 (5.5mm) 24” [60 cm] and 32″ [80 cm] circular or longer, or size to obtain gauge.

Notions

⭐️ Marly Bird Amazon Storefront ⭐️

ABBREVIATIONS

K – Knit

K2tog – Knit Two Together

P – Purl

Pm – Place Marker

RS – Right Side

Sk2p – Slip, Knit 2 Together, Pass (see Special Stitches)

Skp – Slip, Knit, Pass (see Special Stitches)

Slm – Slip Marker

St(s) – Stitch(es)

WS – Wrong Side

Yo – Yarn Over

SPECIAL STITCHES

⭐ Slip, Knit, Pass (Skp): Slip next stitch knitwise, knit next stitch, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch.

⭐ Slip, Knit 2 Together, Pass (Sk2p): Slip next stitch knitwise, knit next 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch.

SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

Backwards Loop Cast-on Method

* Wrap yarn around left thumb from front to back and secure in palm with other fingers. Insert needle upward through strand on thumb. Slip loop from thumb onto needle, pulling yarn to tighten. Repeat from * for desired number of sts.

PATTERN STITCHES

Seed Stitch

Worked over an odd number of sts.

Row 1 (RS): K1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Row 2: Knit the purls and purl the knits.

Repeat Row 2 only for Seed st.

Seed st Chart: https://www.stitchfiddle.com/en/c/soqdhv-ap3dqx

Lace Pattern

Worked over a multiple of 8 sts plus 1.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2: Purl.

Row 3: K1 * yo, skp, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to end.

Row 4: Purl.

Row 5: K1, * k1, yo, skp, k1, k2tog, yo, k2; repeat from * to end.

Row 6: Purl.

Row 7: K1, * k2, yo, sk2p, yo, k3; repeat from * to end.

Row 8: Purl.

Repeat Rows 1-8 for Lace Pattern.

Lace Pattern Chart: https://www.stitchfiddle.com/en/c/soqdhm-1s7we

SCHEMATIC 

Triangle shawl diagram showing a 70" (178 cm) wide base and 35" (89 cm) height, for knit shawl pattern planning.

CHARTS

Charts for this shawl are only available in the ad-free pdf.

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Seed st Chart

Lace Pattern Chart

Section 1 Chart

Section 2 Chart

Section 3 Chart

Wavy Border Chart

VIDEO TUTORIALS

CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

This shawl is worked:

  • Top-down
  • Beginning with a garter tab cast-on
  • Increased along both edges and center
  • Transitioning through multiple stitch pattern sections
  • Finished with a lengthwise joined lace border

NOTES 

  • Always slip stitches purlwise unless otherwise indicated.
  • Place markers as instructed, as they are critical for maintaining stitch counts.
  • Stitch count increases occur on designated rows.
  • Lifelines are highly recommended at section transitions (see Video Tutorials).
  • As stitch count grows, switch to longer circular needles for comfort.
  • Border is worked lengthwise and joined as you go.

COLOR SEQUENCE

Here is the color sequence used in the sample; feel free to use this or stripe as you wish:

Rows 1-20: Fairy Tale (A)

Rows 21-40: Green Tea (C)

Rows 41-56: Velvet (B)

Rows 57-72: Sangria (D)

Rows 73-88: Velvet (B)

Rows 89-104: Sangria (D)

Rows 105-110: Fairy Tale (A)

Rows 111-128: Green Tea (C)

Rows 129-134: Fairy Tale (A)

Rows 135-152: Green Tea (C)

Rows 153-158: Fairy Tale (A)

159-168: Green Tea (C)Wavy Border: Sangria (D)

Person models a bright pink, green, and gray knit shawl in a yarn-filled room; "Marly Bird" logo at top right.

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Bright, striped triangle shawl in neon pink, yellow, and green worsted yarn displayed on a smiling woman with glasses.

MARIPOSA CHIC KNIT TRIANGLE SHAWL PATTERN

BEGINNING TAB

Using Fairy Tale (A), cast on 3 sts, and knit 7 rows.

Turn work 90 degrees, pick up 3 sts along side edge, turn work 90 degrees, pick up 3 sts across cast on edge.

Count: 9 sts.

SHAWL BODY – SECTION 1: SETUP

Section 1

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (increase row, WS): K3, pm, yo, p1, yo, pm, k1, pm, yo, p1, yo, pm, k3.

Count: 13 sts (+4 sts)

Row 3: Knit.

Row 4: K3, slm yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 17 sts (+4 sts)

Row 5: K3, slm, k1, p3, k1, slm, k1, slm, k1, p3, k1, slm, k3.

Row 6: K3, slm, yo, p1, k3, p1, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p1, k3, p1, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 21 sts (+4 sts)

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 25 sts (+4 sts)

Row 9: K3, slm, k1, * p3, k1; repeat from * to marker, slm, k1, slm, k1, * p3, k1; repeat from * to marker, slm, k3.

Row 10: K3, slm yo, p1, * k3, p1; repeat from * to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p1, * k3, p1; repeat from * to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 29 sts (+4 sts)

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 33 sts (+4 sts)

Rows 13-40: Repeat Rows 9-12 only 7 more times, changing to Green Tea (C) after Row 20.
Count: 89 sts (+56 sts)

SECTION 2: TEXTURE

Section 2

Note: It is highly recommended to place a lifeline (see Video Tutorials) before beginning the next section.

Change to Velvet (B).

Row 41: K3, slm, * p1, k7; repeat from * to 1 st before marker, p1, slm, k1, slm, * p1, k7; repeat from * to 1 st before marker, p1, slm, k3. 

Row 42 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p1, * k1, p5, k1, p1; repeat from * to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p1, * k1, p5, k1, p1; repeat from * to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 93 sts (+4 sts)

Row 43: K3, slm, k1, * k2, p1, k3, p1, k1; repeat from * to 2 sts before marker, k2, slm, k1, slm, k1, * k2, p1, k3, p1, k1; repeat from * to 2 sts before marker, k2, slm, k3. 

Row 44: K3, slm, yo, p2, * p2, k1, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to 1 st before marker, p1, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p2, * p2, k1, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to 1 st before marker, p1, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 97 sts (+4 sts)

Row 45: K3, slm, k2, * [p1, k3] twice; repeat from * to 3 sts before marker, p1, k2, slm, k1, slm, k2, * [p1, k3] twice; repeat from * to 3 sts before marker, p1, k2, slm, k3. 

Row 46: K3, slm, yo, p3, * k1, p5, k1, p1; repeat from * to 2 sts before marker, p2, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p3, * k1, p5, k1, p1; repeat from * to 2 sts before marker, p2, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 101 sts (+4 sts)

Row 47: K3, slm, k3, * k2, p1, k3, p1, k1; repeat from * to 4 sts before marker, k4, slm, k1, slm, k3, * k2, p1, k3, p1, k1; repeat from * to 4 sts before marker, k4, slm,  k3.

Row 48: K3, slm, yo, p4, * p2, k1, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to 3 sts before marker, p3, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p4, * p2, k1, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to 3 sts before marker, p3, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 105 sts (+4 sts)

Row 49: K3, slm, k4, * k4, p1, k3; repeat from * to 5 sts before marker, k5, slm, k1, slm, k4, * k4, p1, k3; repeat from * to 5 sts before marker, k5, slm, k3.

Row 50: K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 109 sts (+4 sts)

Row 51: K3, slm, k to marker, slm, k1, slm, k to marker, slm, k3. 

Row 52: K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 113 sts (+4 sts)

Row 53: K3, slm, k to marker, slm, k1, slm, k to marker, slm, k3.

Row 54: K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 117 sts (+4 sts)

Row 55: K3, slm, k to marker, slm, k1, slm, k to marker, slm, k3.

Row 56: K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 121 sts (+4 sts)

Change to Sangria (D).

Rows 57-102: Repeat Rows 41-56 twice more, then repeat Rows 41-54 only once more.

Be sure to change to Velvet (B) after Row 72, and back to Sangria (D) after Row 88.
Count: 213 sts (+92 sts)

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SECTION 3: LACE AND SEED

Section 3

Row 103 (RS): Knit.

Row 104 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 217 sts (+4 sts)

Change to Fairy Tale (A).

Row 105 (establish Lace Pattern, RS): K3, slm, k1, * yo, skp, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to marker, slm, k1, slm, k1, * yo, skp, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to marker, slm, k3.

Row 106 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 221 sts (+4 sts)

Row 107 (RS): K3, slm, k1, * k2, yo, skp, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to 2 sts before marker, k2, slm, k1, slm, k1, * k2, yo, skp, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to 2 sts before marker, k2, slm, k3.

Row 108 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 225 sts (+4 sts)

Row 109 (RS): K3, slm, k2 * k3, yo, sk2p, yo, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts before marker, k3, slm, k1, slm, k2 * k3, yo, sk2p, yo, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts before marker, k3, slm, k3. 

Row 110 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 229 sts (+4 sts)

Change to Green Tea (C).

Row 111 (establish Seed st, RS): K3, slm, * k1, p1; repeat from * to 1 st before marker, k1, slm, k1, slm, * k1, p1; repeat from * to 1 st before marker k1, slm, k3. 

Row 112 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, work in established Seed st (purl the knits and knit the purls) to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, work in established Seed st to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 233 sts (+4 sts)

Rows 113 (RS): K3, slm, k1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, k1, slm, k1, slm, k1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, k1, slm, k3.

Rows 114 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, p1, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, p1, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 237 sts (+4 sts)

Row 115 (RS): K3, slm, work in established Seed st to marker, slm, k1, slm, work in established Seed st to marker, slm, k3.

Row 116 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, work in established Seed st to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, work in established Seed st to marker, yo, slm, k3.

Count: 241 sts (+4 sts)

Row 117 (RS): Knit.

Row 118 (incerase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.

Count: 245 sts (+4 sts)

Row 119 (RS): K3, slm, work in established Seed st to marker, slm, k1, slm, work in established Seed st to marker, slm, k3.

Row 120 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, work in established Seed st to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, work in established Seed st to marker, yo, slm, k3.

Count: 249 sts (+4 sts)

Rows 121 (RS): K3, slm, k1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, k1, slm, k1, slm, k1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, k1, slm, k3.

Rows 122 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, p1, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, p1, yo, slm, k3.

Count: 253 sts (+4 sts)

Row 123 (RS): K3, slm, work in established Seed st to marker, slm, k1, slm, work in established Seed st to marker, slm, k3.

Row 124 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, work in established Seed st to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, work in established Seed st to marker, yo, slm, k3.

Count: 257 sts (+4 sts)

Rows 125 (RS): K3, slm, k1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, k1, slm, k1, slm, k1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, k1, slm, k3.

Row 126 (incerase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.

Count: 261 sts (+16 sts)

Rows 127-165: Repeat Rows 103-126 once more, then repeat Rows 103-117 only once more.

Be sure to change to Fairy Tale (A) after Row 128, then to Green Tea (C) after Row 134, then back to Fairy Tale (A) after Row 152, then back to Green Tea (C) after Row 158.

Count: 337 sts (+76 sts)

Continue with Green Tea.

Work 3 final rows in Stockinette st while continuing to increase as follows:

Row 166 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 341 sts (+4 sts)

Row 167 (RS): Knit.

Row 168 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 345 sts (+4 sts)

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WAVY BORDER

Wavy Border is worked lengthwise over 13 sts and joined to the Shawl Body as you go using decreases. 

Wavy Border

Change to Sangria (D).

Cast on 13 additional sts using Backwards-Loop cast-on method (see Special Techniques).

Count: 13 edge sts

Count: 345 body sts

Row 1 (joining row, RS): K12, k2tog (1 st from cast on, 1 st from Shawl Body), turn work.

Count: 13 edge sts

Count: 344 body sts (-1 st)

Row 2 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. 

Row 3 (joining row, RS): K12, k2tog, turn work.

Count: 13 edge sts

Count: 343 body sts (-1 st)

Row 4 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. 

Row 5 (joining row, RS): K4, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, turn work.

Count: 15 edge sts (+2 sts)

Count: 342 body sts (-1 st)

Row 6 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. 

Row 7 (joining row, RS): K5, sk2p, k2, [yo, k2tog] twice, k2tog, turn work.

Count: 13 edge sts (-2 sts)

Count: 341 body sts (-1 st)

Row 8 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. 

Row 9 (joining row, RS): K4, skp, k2, [yo, k2tog] twice, k2tog, turn work. 

Count: 12 edge sts (-1 st)

Count: 340 body sts (-1 st)

Row 10 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. 

Row 11 (joining row, RS): K3, skp, k2, [yo, k2tog] twice, k2tog, turn work. 

Count: 11 edge sts (-1 st)

Count: 339 body sts (-1 st)

Row 12 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. 

Row 13 (joining row, RS): K2, skp, k2, [yo, k2tog] twice, k2tog, turn work. 

Count: 10 edge sts (-1 st)

Count: 338 body sts (-1 st)

Row 14 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. 

Row 15 (joining row, RS): K1, skp, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, turn work.
Count: 11 edge sts (+1 st)

Count: 337 body sts (-1 st)

Row 16 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. 

Row 17 (joining row, RS): K4, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, turn work.

Count: 13 edge sts (+2 st)

Count: 336 body sts (-1 st)

Repeat Rows 4-17 only until all Shawl Body sts have been worked into the edging.

Bind off all remaining sts. 

FINISHING

Weave in all loose ends.

Wash and Block

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🧼 How to Block Your Knit Triangle Shawl

Blocking transforms this shawl from “fresh off the needles” into a beautifully shaped triangle with crisp stitch definition and smooth drape.

Since this pattern uses a superwash merino wool, I recommend wet blocking rather than aggressive steam blocking. Superwash fibers respond beautifully to soaking and careful shaping.

Here’s how:

  1. Soak your shawl in lukewarm water with a wool wash for 15–20 minutes.
  2. Gently squeeze out excess water — do not wring.
  3. Roll in a towel to remove additional moisture.
  4. Lay flat and shape into a clean triangle.
  5. Pin the edges and border evenly to open up the lace and seed stitch sections.
  6. Allow to dry completely before unpinning.

Blocking helps:

  • Even out stitches
  • Define the lace motifs
  • Relax the seed stitch texture
  • Improve overall drape

If you’re unsure which method to use, read my full guide:
👉 Blocking Made Easy with Tools

And if you’re working specifically with superwash yarn, this comparison may help:
👉 Steam Blocking vs Wet Blocking for Superwash Yarn

⭐️ Must Have Blocking Supplies ⭐️

🧵 Styling Your Triangle Shawl

One of my favorite things about triangle shawls is versatility:

  • Wear it wrapped around your shoulders for warmth.
  • Style it bandana-style for modern flair.
  • Drape it loosely over a jacket for texture contrast.
  • Use bold colors to elevate a neutral outfit.

This shape works year-round depending on fiber choice.

Woman models a knit shawl with pink, lime green, and gray stripes; textured stitches; “Marly Bird” logo in corner.
Person models a vibrant knit shawl in pink, yellow, and gray worsted yarn over denim; bookshelves and yarn in background.
Person models a bright pink, green, and gray knit shawl in a yarn-filled room; "Marly Bird" logo at top right.
Person wearing a pink and yellow knitted hooded cowl, holding up the hood; yarn shelves in background, Marly Bird logo visible.
Person wearing a striped pink, gray, and green knit triangle shawl; visible stitch texture; yarn shelves in background.

🧶 Explore More Free Knit Shawl Patterns

If you love this design, be sure to explore my full collection:

👉 Marly Bird Knit Shawl Patterns

You might also enjoy:

💖 Love This Pattern?

Blue starburst with red hearts, colorful “Favorite This on ravelry” text, and a small white peacock at the bottom.

Be sure to:

I absolutely love seeing your makes!

Love This Concentration Level?

If you enjoyed the focused challenge of Mariposa, you may love:

With the full collection, you can mix and match stitch sections to create your own concentration-level shawl.

Four colorful shawls, knit and Tunisian crochet, displayed on mannequins and hangers; visible stitch texture and drape.

FAQ – Knit Triangle Shawl Pattern

Is this knit triangle shawl pattern free?

Yes. The full Mariposa pattern is available right here on this page… cast-on, stitch sections, applied border, the whole thing. If you’d rather knit from a clean printable copy, the ad-free PDF is available on Etsy, Shopify, and Ravelry.

Is this pattern beginner friendly?

No, this is an intermediate knit triangle shawl pattern. You’ll want to be comfortable with knit, purl, yarn-over increases, basic shaping, and reading written stitch patterns before you cast on. The four progressive stitch sections build skill as you go, but they do require focus… this is the original “Be Quiet, I’m Knitting” project for a reason.

Can I knit Mariposa in one color instead of multiple?

Absolutely. The original sample was knit in one color, and the texture really shines on a solid background. A multi-color version (like the photos here) lets each stitch section pop visually, but a single-color shawl shows off the textured stitch work in a more elegant, monochrome way. Both are gorgeous… pick what speaks to you.

Is this a good winter shawl?

Yes. The worsted weight yarn (CYCA #4) creates a warm, cushy fabric that’s ideal for layering over jackets, sweaters, or wraps. The wide triangle shape means you can wrap it close around your shoulders for warmth or drape it open for a bigger statement piece. It’s the kind of shawl that lives on the back of your reading chair from October to April.

Can I make Mariposa larger?

Yes. The simplest way to size up is to repeat additional body sections before beginning the applied border. Just keep in mind you’ll need extra yarn for both the larger body AND the longer border that has to wrap around the bigger triangle. Plan for at least one extra skein per added body repeat.

Does gauge matter if I don’t care about exact size?

Less critically… but yardage and border fit still depend on gauge. If you knit looser than the suggested gauge you’ll need more yarn than the pattern calls for, and a too-loose gauge can make the applied border ripple instead of lying flat. A quick gauge swatch will save you headaches later, even if you’re not chasing exact dimensions.

Can I substitute a non-merino yarn?

Yes, but choose a yarn with good stitch definition. The textured stitch sections are the star of this shawl, and a yarn that’s too soft or too fuzzy will hide the detail you worked so hard to knit. Stick to smooth worsted weight wool or wool blends… Malabrigo Rios, Berroco Ultra Wool, Cascade 220 Superwash, and Knit Picks Swish Worsted are all excellent substitutes for the discontinued Chic Sheep yarn.

Woman models a vibrant textured knit shawl in magenta, lime green, and gray; yarn shelves visible in the background.

Final Thoughts 💕

Mariposa isn’t just a shawl.

It’s a milestone.

It’s focused.
It’s textured.
It’s warm.
It’s intentional.

It asks for your attention.
It rewards you with beauty.

Now grab your needles.

Be quiet.

And knit. 🦋💕

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

Marly Bird Bitmoji

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

A cartoon avatar of a person with glasses and a brown bun smiles warmly. Their green shirt and black jacket add a stylish touch, while colorful hearts surround them like loving temperature blankets, stitching together an aura of love and positivity. -Marly Bird