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Ridgeway Crochet Motif | Free Mosaic Crochet Block for the Moogly CAL 2026

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The Ridgeway Crochet Motif is a free 12-inch mosaic crochet square designed by Robyn Chachula for MarlyBird.com as part of the 2026 Moogly Crochet Along. This intermediate-level crochet block uses four colors of WeCrochet Brava Worsted Weight and combines treble crochets with a mosaic stitch structure to create a stunning geometric motif perfect for blankets, pillows, and more.

⚡ Quick Answer:

The Ridgeway Crochet Motif is a free intermediate crochet pattern for a 12″ x 12″ mosaic square. It uses four colors of worsted weight yarn and a J/10 (6.0 mm) hook. Get the complete free pattern right here on the blog — scroll down or jump straight to the pattern!

⭐ Intermediate 🧵 Worsted Weight (#4) 📏 4 colors, ~1 ball each 🪡 J/10 (6.0 mm) hook 📐 12″ × 12″ finished

Hey, bestie 💛 I am SO excited to share this one with you! Every year, I look forward to contributing a block to the Moogly Crochet Along — it's honestly one of my favorite creative challenges of the year. This time around, my best friend and co-owner Robyn Chachula designed the most beautiful mosaic motif for our 2026 contribution, and I cannot wait for you to stitch it up. 🧵

The Ridgeway Crochet Motif is all about that gorgeous geometric mosaic magic — the kind that looks incredibly complex but is totally achievable once you get the rhythm. Four colors, beautiful layered texture, and a finished 12-inch square that plays SO well with other CAL blocks (or works perfectly all on its own as a pillow front… just saying 😉).

Below you'll find the complete free pattern, video tutorial links, notes on yarn substitutions, and links to all the other Moogly blocks we've designed over the years. Let's make something gorgeous together!

🧶 Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and it helps support free patterns and content from my yarn-loving heart 💛 See my privacy policy here.

→ Jump straight to the free pattern

Why You'll Love This Crochet Motif 💖

🎨 Four gorgeous colors in one block. The Ridgeway Motif uses four colors of WeCrochet Brava Worsted — Fairy Tale, Coral, Mint, and Marina — for a palette that's fresh, modern, and oh-so-satisfying to watch come together. The color changes happen one round at a time, which means no complicated color-stranding mid-row!

✨ Mosaic crochet that teaches you something. The center of this motif uses a mosaic stitch structure with treble crochets worked two rows below — it's the technique that gives mosaic crochet that dimensional, almost woven look. Work through this block and you'll walk away with a real, repeatable skill you can use in dozens of other projects.

🧶 A perfect-sized 12-inch square. The Ridgeway Motif finishes at exactly 12″ × 12″ — the standard Moogly CAL size, which means it joins beautifully with every other CAL block. Mix it with our previous years' blocks to create a one-of-a-kind sampler blanket, or make multiples of just this one for a cohesive mosaic throw.

This is your pattern if… you've tried basic crochet squares and are ready to level up, you want to learn mosaic crochet in a manageable project, or you're participating in the 2026 Moogly CAL and want your square to be something really special. You'll come away knowing how to work the third-loop hdc technique, front post treble crochets across multiple rows, and the invisible join — three skills that show up again and again in intermediate crochet projects.

Quick Pattern Overview 🧵

📐 The Ridgeway Crochet Motif works from the center out. You start with an adjustable ring and build outward through 17 rounds, creating a square motif that transforms from a simple circle into a structured geometric block. The first few rounds establish the square shape using the Stacked Double Crochet technique; then the mosaic center section brings in the color play and texture.

🎨 Colors alternate strategically through the rounds. Color A (Fairy Tale) anchors the center and outer border. Colors B, C, and D rotate through the middle rounds, creating the layered mosaic effect. The pattern will tell you exactly when to switch — and the good news is you always fasten off cleanly before picking up the next color, so there's no mid-row juggling.

📝 A few special stitches make this block unique. The Stacked Double Crochet gives the center a clean join. The Third Loop HDC technique (worked into the back bar of the half double crochet) keeps those color rounds crisp and separated. And the Treble Crochet 2 Together (tr2tog) creates the elegant points in the mosaic section. All three techniques have video tutorial links in the pattern — you've got this!

What Is Mosaic Crochet? (And Why It's Easier Than It Looks!) 🌟

Collage showing colorful knit and crochet mosaic stitch projects: hats, scarves, gloves, and textured decor squares.

Mosaic crochet is a technique that produces stunning geometric patterns using two or more colors, but here's the secret: you only ever work with ONE color per row or round. The color illusion happens by working longer stitches (like treble crochets or double crochets) down into previous rounds, pulling colors up from below to create those intricate graphic designs you see on the finished fabric.

It's completely different from tapestry crochet, where you carry multiple yarn colors simultaneously across the row. In mosaic crochet, each color gets its own round — you fasten off, pick up the next color, and the magic of working into previous rows does all the visual heavy lifting. That's why it looks so complex but crochets up so much more calmly than you'd expect!

✨ Designer Tip: If you usually work with a looser tension, Robyn recommends going down a hook size or two for the mosaic section of this motif (rounds 7–13). That center section works best with a slightly tighter gauge — it makes the geometric detail crisp and clean instead of loose and loopy.

Mosaic crochet is also known for producing a beautifully thick, structured fabric — which is exactly why it's been such a popular choice for blanket squares and afghan blocks. The two-sided nature of the fabric (it's not quite reversible, but both sides are attractive) makes it especially great for pillow fronts, bag panels, and anything that'll be seen from multiple angles.

I've been obsessed with mosaic crochet for years now… and I don't see that changing anytime soon. 😄 If this is your first time trying the technique, the Ridgeway Motif is a fantastic introduction — the mosaic section is contained in the center of the block, so you get a solid practice run before it becomes a full project commitment.

Purple tent with decorated logs, yarn balls, knitting needles, and a “FUN” banner; “Camp Colorwork” above pine trees.

About the Moogly Crochet Along 🎉

The Moogly Crochet Along is a year-long event hosted by Tamara Kelly at MooglyBlog.com. Every two weeks, a new 12-inch afghan square or block is released — designed by a different professional crochet designer — and the whole community crochets along together. Twenty-four blocks, twenty-four designers, one spectacular blanket at the end.

Started back in 2014, the Moogly CAL has grown into one of the most beloved annual traditions in the crochet world. And I am so honored to be one of the contributing designers again this year! The Ridgeway Crochet Motif is our 2026 contribution — designed by the incredible Robyn Chachula — and I think it might be our best block yet. 💛

You don't need to sign up anywhere to participate — just grab the free blocks as they're released, stitch along at your own pace, and join the Moogly CAL Facebook group for pattern help, inspiration, and the most enthusiastic community of makers you'll ever meet. Check the 2026 MooglyCAL page on MooglyBlog.com for the full schedule and all the details!

Our Previous Moogly CAL Blocks 🧵

We've been contributing to the Moogly CAL for years, and I love how each block has its own personality. If you want to mix the Ridgeway Motif into a bigger blanket, these blocks all work beautifully together:

And the fun doesn't stop at single squares! Once you fall in love with the Moogly CAL blocks, you'll want to turn them into full projects. We've made blankets, throws, and more using these motifs as the starting point:

💡 Good to Know: The Moogly CAL blanket for 2026 is made in WeCrochet / KnitPicks Brava Worsted — the same yarn used for the Ridgeway Motif! If you're making all 24 blocks, you can shop the full yarn pack from the 2026 MooglyCAL page to get all the colors you need.

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Measurements

Finished Measurements

Motif is 12” [30.5 cm] wide by 12” [30.5 cm] long. 

Gauge 

First 5 Rounds of Motif= 4” [10 cm] by 4” [10 cm]; use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

Yarn & Materials 🧶

This motif is worked in WeCrochet Brava Worsted Weight — the official yarn of the 2026 Moogly CAL! Brava Worsted is 100% premium acrylic (218 yds / 200 m, 3.5 oz / 100 g, CYCA #4 worsted), which means it's machine washable, incredibly affordable, and comes in a gorgeous range of solid colors that really makes mosaic stitch patterns pop. You'll need one ball each of four colors:

Crochet Hook

Size J/10 [6.0 mm]

Notions 

⭐️ Marly Bird Amazon Storefront ⭐️

Yarn Substitution Notes

Any worsted weight (#4) yarn with good stitch definition will work beautifully for mosaic crochet — you really want to be able to see those geometric stitch details! A smooth acrylic like Brava Worsted is ideal because there's no halo or texture to muddy the pattern. That said, if you want to try a different fiber:

✨ Designer Tip: Whatever yarn you choose, make sure your colors have good contrast with each other — especially between the colors that appear in the mosaic section (Rounds 7–13). High contrast is what makes those geometric shapes pop! Hold your colors up against each other before you commit — squinting helps you see the value difference.

Abbreviations

Ch – Chain(s) 

Dc – Double Crochet 

Hdc – Half Double Crochet

PM – Place Marker

RS – Right Side 

Sc – Single Crochet

Sl st – Slip Stitch

Sp(s) – Space(s) 

St(s) – Stitch(es)

Tch – Turning Chain

Tr – Treble Crochet

WS – Wrong Side

Special Stitches

⭐️ Invisible join: This is created by removing the free loop from hook, thread hook from back to front in first st, place free loop on hook and draw through stitch. Remove the hook from the free loop and replace in the opposite direction to start the next round, this will make sure your loop is not twisted.

⭐️Stacked Double Crochet (Stacked Dc): (Do not ch 1 prior to making the first sc) Sc in first stitch, insert hook in between two legs of the base, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook.

⭐️ Standing Single Crochet (Standing Sc):With slip knot on hook, insert hook into stitch or space, yarn over hook and pull up a loop, yarn over hook and draw through both loops on hook.

⭐️Third Loop: Also known as middle or back bar. Horizontal strand located under the top 2 loops.. When working from the WS, the third loop is on the front side of the fabric facing you. When working from the RS, the third loop is on the back side of the fabric away from you. 

⭐️Treble Crochet 2 Together (tr2tog): *Yarn over hook twice, insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice; repeat from * in next indicated st, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. (1 st decreased)

Crochet Stitch Diagram

Notes

  • The Ridgeway Crochet Motif mosaic section (the center part with treble crochets) works well with a tighter tension.  If you usually have a loose gauge, you might want to drop down a hook size or two. 
  • You can substitute a ch 3 instead of a stacked dc throughout the pattern. 
  • If you do not want to do the invisible join on the half double crochet rounds, you can instead slip stitch to the first stitch to join.  Slip stitch joins do add a stitch that is visible to the front of the work, and not everyone likes that look. 
  • Change color by folding in a new color after joining and ch the amount needed for the next round.
  • When working the mosaic section of the motif, you will be turning at the end of the rounds.  The pattern will stitch work if you do not turn, except the stitches will be slightly slanted.

Video Tutorials 🎥

New to some of these techniques? I've got you covered! Here are the video tutorials referenced in the pattern:

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Ridgeway Crochet Motif || Pattern Instructions

With color A, make an adjustable ring.

Round 1: Ch 1, 12 sc in ring, sl st to first sc, pull ring closed, do not turn – 12 sc. 

Round 2: (Stacked dc, dc) in first sc, 2 dc in each remaining sc around, sl st to first st to join, do not turn – 24 dc.

Round 3: Stacked dc in first st, dc in next 2 dc, [5 dc in next dc, place marker in center dc, dc in next 5 dc] 3 times, 5 dc in next dc, place marker in center dc, dc in last 2 dc, sl st to first st to join, fasten off color A, do not turn – 40 dc.

Round 4: Change color to B, ch 1 (does not count as a st throughout), *hdc in each dc across to marker, 3 hdc in marked dc, move marker to center hdc; repeat from * around, hdc in each remaining dc to beginning, invisible join to first hdc, fasten off color B, do not turn – 48 hdc.

Round 5: Change color to C, ch 1, *hdc in the third loop of each hdc across to marker, 3 hdc in marked hdc, move marker to center hdc; repeat from * around, hdc in the third loop of each remaining hdc to beginning, invisible join to first hdc, TURN – 56 hdc.

✨ Designer Tip: Starting with Round 5, you'll be working into the “third loop” of each hdc — that's the little horizontal strand running under the top two loops. It can be tricky to find at first! Try looking at the back of the stitch from the WS side, or use a smaller hook tip to pick it out. Once you get the hang of it, it creates the crispest, cleanest color separation.

Round 6: Ch 1, *sc in the third loop of each hdc across to marker, 3 sc in marked hdc, move marker to center sc; repeat from * around, sc in the third loop of each remaining hdc to beginning, sl st to first sc to join, fasten off color C, TURN – 64 sc.

Round 7: Join color D with a standing sc in the 4th sc before the next marker (this is 5 sts away from the join), sc in next 2 sc, *ch 2, skip next sc, sc in marked sc, move marker, ch 2, skip next sc, sc in next 5 sc, ch 3, skip 3 sc**, sc in next 5 sc; repeat from * around ending at ** with 2 sts remaining, sc in last 2 sc, sl st to first sc to join, TURN – 40 sc + 4 ch-3 sps + 8 ch-2 sps.

Round 8: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sc, *3 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, 3 sc in marked sc, move marker to center sc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp**, sc in next 5 sc; repeat from * around ending at ** with 3 sts left, sc in last 3 sc, join with sl st in first sc, TURN – 80 sc. 

Round 9: Change color to C, ch 1, *sc in next sc, tr in first skipped sc located in corner under next ch-sp 2 rows below (note: work all tr in front of previous 2 rows), (tr, ch 3, tr) in corner sc 2 rows below, sc in marked sc, move marker, (tr, ch 3, tr) in same corner sc 2 rows below, tr in next skipped sc 2 rows below, skip 5 sc from marked sc, sc in next sc, tr in first skipped sc located under next ch-sp 2 rows below, (tr, ch 3, tr) in next skipped sc 2 rows below, tr in third skipped sc 2 rows below, skip 7 sc; repeat from * around, sl st to first sc to join, TURN – 40 tr + 12 sc + 12 ch-3 sps.

✨ Designer Tip: Round 9 is where the mosaic magic really starts to show! When the pattern says “work all tr in front of previous 2 rows,” this means you're inserting your hook into stitches from 2 rounds below and pulling the treble crochet up in FRONT of the fabric — like you're reaching back in time to grab those skipped stitches. Take it slowly and refer to the video tutorial if you need a visual!

Round 10: Ch 1, *sc in next 2 tr, ch 3, skip next ch-3 sp, sc in next 2 tr, sc in next sc, sc in next 2 tr, ch 3, skip next ch-3 sp, sc in next tr, 3 sc in marked sc, move marker to center sc, sc in next tr, ch 3, skip next ch-3 sp, sc in next 2 tr, sc in next sc; repeat from * around, sl st to first sc to join, TURN- 60 sc + 12 ch-3 sps. 

Round 11: Change color to D, ch 1, *sc in next sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, dc in next 3 sc 2 rows below directly under next ch-3 sp (work in front of previous 2 rows, this also skips 2 sc 2 rows below), ch 2, skip 2 sc, 3 sc in marked sc, move marker to center sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, dc in next 3 sc 2 rows below directly under next ch-3 sp (this does not skip any sc 2 rows below), ch 2, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, dc in next 3 sc 2 rows below directly under next ch-3 sp (this also skips 2 sc 2 rows below), ch 2; repeat from * around, sl st to first sc to join, TURN- 36 dc + 24 ch-2 sps + 20 sc. 

Round 12: Ch 1, *[2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 3 dc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next sc] twice, 3 sc in marked sc, move marker to center sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next 3 dc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next sc; repeat from * around, sl st to first sc to join, fasten off color D, TURN – 112 sc. 

Round 13: Change color to C, ch 1, sc in first 3 sc, *tr in next skipped sc 2 rows below directly under next ch-2 sp (working in front of previous 2 rows), tr2tog in next 2 skipped sc 2 rows below, tr in next skipped sc 2 rows below, skip 3 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 3 sc in marked sc, move marker to center sc, sc in next 4 sc, tr in next skipped sc 2 rows below directly under next ch-2 sp, tr2tog in next 2 skipped sc 2 rows below, tr in next skipped sc 2 rows below, skip 3 sc, sc in next 5 sc, tr in next skipped sc 2 rows below directly under next ch-2 sp, tr2tog in next 2 skipped sc 2 rows below, tr in next skipped sc 2 rows below, skip 3 sc**, sc in next 5 sc; repeat from * around ending at ** with 2 sc remaining, sc in last 2 sc, sl st to first sc to join, do not turn – 24 tr + 12 tr2tog + 84 sc.

Round 14: Ch 1, *hdc in each st across to marker, 3 hdc in marked sc, move marker to center hdc; repeat from * around, hdc in each remaining st across to beginning, invisible join to first hdc, fasten off color C, do not turn – 128 hdc. 

Round 15: Change color to B, ch 1, *hdc in the third loop of each hdc across to marker, 3 hdc in marked hdc, move marker to center hdc; repeat from * around, hdc in the third loop of each remaining hdc across to beginning, invisible join to first hdc, fasten off color B, do not turn – 136 hdc. 

Round 16: Join color A with a standing dc in the third loop in the first hdc, *dc in the third loop of each hdc across to marker, 5 dc in marked hdc, move marker to center dc; repeat from * around, dc in the third loop of each remaining hdc across to beginning, sl st to first dc to join, do not turn – 152 dc. 

Round 17: Stacked dc in first dc, *dc in each dc across to marker, 5 dc in marked dc; repeat from * around, dc in each remaining dc to beginning, sl st to first dc to join, fasten off – 168 dc. 

Weave in all ends. 

Blocking Your Finished Motif 💧

Blocking makes a HUGE difference with mosaic crochet squares… trust me on this one. Fresh off the hook, your motif may look a little wobbly at the corners or slightly uneven in the center — that's completely normal! A good blocking session evens everything out into that perfect 12″ × 12″ square and really lets those geometric lines crisp up and shine.

Pin your finished motif to 12″ × 12″ on a blocking mat, spray generously with water, and leave it to dry completely before unpinning. For acrylic yarn like Brava Worsted, steam blocking also works beautifully — hover your steam iron over the surface (don't press down!) for a few seconds per section. The motif will relax and set into shape perfectly.

✨ Designer Tip: If your motif is pulling in at the corners after blocking, try pinning the corner stitches slightly outward — beyond your target measurement — before blocking. Acrylic tends to relax toward the center as it dries, so pinning a touch wider than you need often ends up right where you want it.

More Mosaic Crochet Patterns You'll Love 🌟

Once the mosaic crochet bug bites… you're done for (in the best possible way 😄). Here are more of my favorite mosaic patterns to keep you busy:

A navy and white geometric crochet baby blanket draped over a chair, highlighting texture and stitch detail.
Crochet mosaic fingerless mittens with intricate stitched patterns, displayed beside a lit candle.
Colorful knit scarf with blue, yellow, pink, and burgundy sections; features distinct textured stitch patterns.
A person models a crocheted triangle scarf with gray, blue, and red patterns, highlighting the textured stitching.
Gray and light green crochet mosaic hat with folded brim and black faux fur pom-pom, shown on white wood surface.
Three images of gray crochet slippers with blue trim, modeled indoors. Displays textured stitch details on the socks.
Mosaic Madness Crochet Scarf

More Free Crochet Square & Motif Patterns 🔷

Can't get enough of beautiful crochet squares and afghan motifs? Here are more gorgeous free options to add to your queue:

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the Moogly Crochet Along?

The Moogly Crochet Along (Moogly CAL) is a year-long crochet event hosted by Tamara Kelly at MooglyBlog.com. Each year, 24 professional crochet designers contribute one free 12-inch afghan square or block, released every two weeks. It's been running since 2014 and is one of the longest-running online crochet alongs ever. The 2026 Moogly CAL uses WeCrochet / KnitPicks Brava Worsted yarn and features 24 brand-new block designs.

What is mosaic crochet?

Mosaic crochet is a colorwork technique that creates bold geometric patterns using two or more yarn colors, but you only work with one color at a time per row or round. The pattern is achieved by working longer stitches (like treble crochets or double crochets) down into previous rows to pull earlier colors forward, creating an intricate layered look without any color carries or complicated stranding.

Is the Ridgeway Crochet Motif good for beginners?

The Ridgeway Crochet Motif is rated Intermediate. It uses a few special stitches — the Stacked Double Crochet, Third Loop HDC, and Treble Crochet 2 Together — that may be new to newer crocheters, and the mosaic section requires working into previous rows. That said, if you're comfortable with basic crochet stitches and willing to use the video tutorials, it's very achievable! The pattern gives clear stitch counts at the end of every round so you can check your work as you go.

Can I use different yarn for this pattern?

Yes! Any worsted weight (#4) yarn with good stitch definition will work. Smooth acrylic yarns show the mosaic stitch detail most clearly, making them the best choice for this kind of geometric pattern. If you want to substitute, try KnitPicks Brava Worsted, WeCrochet Mighty Stitch Worsted, or Berroco Vintage Worsted. Whatever you choose, high color contrast between your four colors is key to making the mosaic design pop!

What is the finished size of the Ridgeway Crochet Motif?

The finished motif measures 12″ × 12″ [30.5 cm × 30.5 cm] after blocking. Gauge is: First 5 Rounds = 4″ × 4″ [10 cm × 10 cm]. Use a J/10 (6.0 mm) hook, and adjust hook size as needed to hit that gauge.

Do I need to block the finished motif?

Yes — blocking is highly recommended for any crochet square, and especially for mosaic crochet motifs! Blocking evens out your corners, sets the fabric into the correct dimensions, and makes those geometric mosaic lines really crisp and defined. For Brava Worsted (100% acrylic), pin to 12″ × 12″, spray with water, and allow to dry completely. Steam blocking also works well.

Can I make a full blanket from the Ridgeway Crochet Motif?

Absolutely! The Ridgeway Motif is designed to the standard 12″ Moogly CAL size, so it joins perfectly with any other CAL blocks. You could make multiples of just this one block for a cohesive mosaic blanket, mix it with other Moogly CAL years for a sampler, or combine it with our Mosaic Tile Crochet Blanket pattern for a full project. The possibilities are so fun!

Final Thoughts 💛

Every year, contributing to the Moogly CAL is one of my absolute favorite moments in the creative calendar… and this year's Ridgeway Crochet Motif might just be the most beautiful block we've ever made. Robyn Chachula brought something truly special with this design — those layered mosaic stitches, the four-color palette, the way it all builds from a tiny center ring into a perfect geometric square. Chef's kiss. 😍

Whether you're making just this one block or stitching all 24 for the full 2026 blanket, I hope this motif brings you a lot of joy and maybe teaches you a new stitch or two along the way. That's always the goal! 💛

If you stitch up the Ridgeway Crochet Motif, please please PLEASE share your progress and finished blocks — I want to see ALL the color combos you come up with! Tag me @marlybird on Instagram or Facebook and use #MMMDI (Marly Made Me Do It), #MarlyBird, or #RidgewayCrochetMotif so I can see it. 💛

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

A cartoon avatar of a person with glasses and a brown bun smiles warmly. Their green shirt and black jacket add a stylish touch, while colorful hearts surround them like loving temperature blankets, stitching together an aura of love and positivity. -Marly Bird

The Bashful Hat: A Free Knit Lace Slouchy Pattern You’ll Reach For Every Season

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The Bashful Knit Lace Slouchy Hat is a free knitting pattern by Marly Bird, featuring a gorgeous 10-row lace pattern and a beautiful slouchy silhouette. Worked bottom-up on circular needles in luxurious DK weight merino-silk yarn, this Adventurous Beginner pattern comes in three sizes (S, M, L) — and the full pattern, including written instructions and stitch charts, is free right here on the blog.

⚡ Quick Answer:

The Bashful Knit Hat is a free lace knitting pattern by Marly Bird, designed for the Adventurous Beginner knitter. Worked bottom-up in DK weight merino-silk yarn (Universal Yarns Eden Silk), this hat comes in sizes S (M, L) with a delicate 10-row lace body and a 1×1 ribbed brim. The full pattern — including written instructions, stitch charts, and video tutorials — is free right here on the blog, or grab the ad-free PDF on Etsy, Shopify, or Ravelry.

Bashful Knit Lace Slouchy Hat lifestyle collage — three views including side and back

Hey, bestie 💛

I have a serious soft spot for slouchy hats… there's something about that gentle slouch at the back of your head that just feels cozy and effortless. And when you pair that slouchy shape with a delicate lace pattern? That's when magic happens. The Bashful Knit Lace Slouchy Hat is my love letter to spring and fall hats that actually look like you put thought into them…

🧶 Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and it helps support free patterns and content from my yarn-loving heart 💛 See my privacy policy here.
Marly Bird holding up the Bashful Knit Lace Slouchy Hat showing the lace crown pattern — free knitting pattern

Jump to the pattern →

Why You'll Love This Bashful Knit Hat 💖

Lace knitting is one of the most rewarding skills in the knitter's toolbox… and a slouchy hat is the perfect canvas to show off lace's delicate magic. The Bashful pattern gives you that lace-crown moment without overwhelming beginners who are new to openwork.

This hat works up quickly enough to gift or test-drive during spring and early fall… but cozy enough to grab every season. The slouchy silhouette means it fits beautifully whether you have a smaller frame or like your hats roomy and relaxed.

You'll come away knowing: how to read a lace chart, how to shift stitches for a crown decrease, and why blocking is non-negotiable for lace. Those skills carry into shawls, blankets, and every lace project ahead…

Bashful Knit Lace Hat in blush pink yarn — modeled view showing the lace pattern body and slouchy silhouette

Quick Pattern Overview

The Bashful Knit Hat is worked from the brim up in the round — you start with a simple 1×1 ribbed brim, work increase rounds to set up the lace stitch count, then knit the lace body, and finish with beautiful crown decreases that shape the top. Three sizes (S, M, L) mean you can cast on for your head circumference and knit to fit.

Love the Pattern but Want an Ad-Free PDF? ⭐

The free pattern is right here on the blog, forever. But if you'd rather stitch without interruptions — or want the pattern formatted for print — you can grab the ad-free PDF and support Marly's work at the same time…

Bashful Knit Lace Hat ad-free PDF pattern — available on Etsy, Shopify, and Ravelry

Get ad-free PDF versions of this pattern on your favorite platform:

Buy on Etsy
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Close-up portrait and full-body modeling of the Bashful Knit Lace Slouchy Hat in blush pink yarn

What Makes Lace Knitting Special ✨

Lace knitting sounds intimidating… but the secret is this: you're just making intentional holes. Yarn overs create the openwork, decreases shape it, and blocking transforms a slightly crumpled flat piece into something ethereal.

One of the best tools in a lace knitter's toolkit is the lifeline — a strand of yarn or thread threaded through a complete round that becomes your safety net. If you drop a stitch or need to rip back, your lifeline stops the damage.

✨ Designer Tip: Always use a lifeline every 5-10 rows in lace sections. If you mess up and need to rip back, you'll only lose a few rows instead of the entire lace section. Trust me on this one…

Blocking is absolutely essential for lace. Wet blocking (soaking the finished hat in cool water with a bit of wool wash, then pinning it to shape and letting it dry) opens up the lace stitches and creates that airy, intentional look. Without blocking, even perfect lace can look dense and bumpy…

Close-up detail of the lace crown pattern on the Bashful Knit Lace Slouchy Hat showing intricate openwork stitches

How to Get the Perfect Slouchy Fit 👒

A slouchy hat is all about fit preference… some knitters love a dramatic slouch that drapes halfway down the back, while others prefer a subtle gather. The Bashful pattern works for both… the three size options (S, M, L) plus the adjustable nature of lace blocking give you plenty of room to dial in your perfect fit.

Measure a hat you already love wearing. Grab your tape measure and check the finished circumference at the brim — that's your target. The Bashful comes in three sizes — Small, Medium, and Large. Finished brim circumference is 16 (18, 20)” [40.5 (45.5, 51) cm] before blocking, and the hat height is 8¼ (8¼, 9¾)” [21 (21, 25) cm]. Start with the size closest to your actual head circumference… the lace will grow slightly at blocking.

The amount of slouch comes from the difference between your head circumference and the hat's finished circumference. Cozy fit means 2-4 inches of positive ease; slouchy means 4-6+ inches. The Bashful is designed with slight negative ease before blocking — lace grows when you wet block it, and you want a snug fit right off the needles. Swatch, block your swatch, and measure carefully before casting on…

Yarn & Materials

🎉 Featured Yarn: Universal Yarns Eden Silk

The Bashful Knit Hat was designed in Universal Yarns Eden Silk — a dreamy 75% merino wool / 25% silk DK weight yarn (153 yds / 140 m per 50 g skein). Silk adds a beautiful drape and subtle sheen that makes lace truly sing… and merino gives it warmth and easy-care properties. The colorway shown is #02 Blush — that soft, rosy pink that gives this hat its name.

How much do you need?
  • Small: 1 skein (153 yds / 140 m)
  • Medium: 2 skeins (306 yds / 280 m)
  • Large: 2 skeins (306 yds / 280 m)

Important Blocking & Fit Note

Lace can grow significantly during blocking, and the amount of stretch will vary depending on the yarn and fiber content you are using. Be sure to take this into consideration when choosing your needle size and planning your finished fit.

If your swatch grows more than expected after blocking, or you prefer a less slouchy finished piece, it is perfectly acceptable to go down one or even two needle sizes. The goal is to achieve a blocked fabric and finished measurement that works for your preferred fit.

Always measure your gauge after blocking, since the blocked measurement is the best indication of how the finished piece will behave.

Needles & Notions

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Yarn Alternatives

Can't find Universal Yarns Eden Silk? No problem… here are some gorgeous DK weight merino and merino-silk alternatives that will give you the same beautiful drape and lace definition:

🎉 DK Weight Merino & Merino-Silk Substitutes

The key for this hat is a smooth, drapey DK weight yarn (CYCA #3) with merino wool — the softness matters because you're wearing this against your head, and merino is the gold standard for next-to-skin comfort. Silk is a gorgeous bonus for drape and sheen, but pure merino will work beautifully too…

🧶 Option 1 — Merino-Silk DK: That same silk sheen Eden Silk is known for, in DK weight. Dreamy drape and a subtle luminosity that takes lace to another level. Shop this option →

🧶 Option 2 — Superwash Merino DK: Buttery soft, machine-washable, and in a rainbow of gorgeous colors. Great stitch definition means your lace will pop. Shop this option →

🧶 Option 3 — Loops & Threads Luxe Merino Solid (Michaels): 100% merino DK at a budget-friendly price point you can pick up in person. Soft, smooth, and holds lace beautifully. Shop at Michaels →

🧶 Option 4 — Rico Design Luxury Merino Supercash DK (Michaels): A cashmere-merino blend that takes lace to a whole new level of softness and elegance. Available at Michaels. Shop at Michaels →

🧶 Option 5 — Classic DK Merino: A reliable DK weight merino with great stitch definition and a wide color range. The kind of yarn that never lets you down. Shop this option →

🧶 Option 6 — DK Merino Blend: Another excellent merino DK with lovely drape. Works beautifully with lace patterns and blocks like a dream. Shop this option →

🧶 Option 7 — Premium Merino DK: Beautifully dyed, incredible hand, and that soft merino feel you love. Takes color gorgeously. Shop this option →

🧶 Option 8 — Cotton-Blend DK: For a lighter, breezier version of this hat… perfect for warmer climates or spring wear. Cotton tip from Marly: knit one size smaller than gauge (or go down a needle size), and allow blocking to bring it to the right dimensions. The cotton doesn't have the same elasticity as wool, so adding a bit of elastic to the brim is also a great option! Shop this option →

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Bashful Knit Lace Slouchy Hat || Pattern Details

Skill Level

⭐ Skill Level: Adventurous Beginner

You're comfortable with knit and purl, and you've worked in the round before. This pattern introduces a 10-row lace repeat with yarn overs and centered decreases — but it's charted AND written, so you have two ways to follow along. A lifeline every repeat or two keeps you confident while you practice!

Finished Measurements

💡 To Fit Sizes: S (M, L)

Brim Circumference: 16 (18, 20)” [40.5 (45.5, 51) cm]
Hat Height: 8¼ (8¼, 9¾)” [21 (21, 25) cm]

Note: Lace can grow significantly during blocking — the finished measurements above are post-blocking. Always measure after blocking your gauge swatch!

Gauge

💡 Gauge

15 sts = 2½” [6.5 cm] in Lace Pattern before blocking, slightly stretched.
15 sts = 3″ [7.5 cm] in Lace Pattern after blocking.

Always swatch and block your swatch before casting on — lace gauge changes significantly after blocking!

Gauge is critical in lace. Make a swatch, wash it like you'll wash the hat, and measure it carefully…

Materials Summary

🎉 Materials at a Glance

Yarn: Universal Yarns Eden Silk (75% Merino Wool, 25% Silk — 153 yds / 140 m per 1¾ oz / 50 g skein — DK weight CYCA #3)
   • 1 (2, 2) skeins — Color: #02 Blush

Needles:
   • US 7 [4.5 mm] 16″ [40.5 cm] circular needle
   • Set of 5 double-pointed needles (US 7 [4.5 mm]) — or size required to achieve gauge

Notions:
   • Stitch markers
   • Tapestry needle
   • Scissors
   • Leather tag + rivets (optional)
   • Tape measure

Abbreviations

✨ Abbreviations

BC – Baby Cable (see Cable Stitches)
CDD – Center Double Decrease (see Special Stitches)
K – Knit
Kfb – Knit Front & Back (see Special Stitches)
K2tog – Knit 2 Together
P – Purl
P2tog – Purl 2 Together
RS – Right Side
S3k2tog – Slip 3, K2tog, Pass (see Special Stitches)
Ssk – Slip, Slip, Knit (see Special Stitches)
St(s) – Stitch(es)
Yo – Yarn Over

Special Stitches

✨ Special Stitches & Cable Stitches

⭐ Center Double Decrease (CDD): Slip next 2 stitches knitwise at the same time, knit next stitch, pass slipped stitches over — 2 stitches decreased.

⭐ Knit Front & Back (Kfb): Knit through the front and back of the next stitch — 1 stitch increased.

⭐ Slip, Slip, Knit (Ssk): Slip 2 stitches one at a time as if to knit. Insert left needle into the front of these 2 stitches and knit them together — 1 stitch decreased.

⭐ Slip 3, K2tog, Pass (S3k2tog): Slip next 3 stitches knitwise one at a time, k2tog, pass 3 slipped stitches over the k2tog stitch — 4 stitches decreased.

⭐ BC (Baby Cable): Knit 2 stitches together, leaving them on the left needle without dropping off. Knit into the first stitch again, then slip both stitches off the left needle.

Stitch Patterns

1 x 1 Rib (circular)

Worked in the round over an even number of sts.

Every round: * K1, p1; repeat from * around.

Lace Pattern (circular)

Worked in the round over a multiple of 15 sts.

Round 1: * P1, BC (see Cable Stitches), p1, yo, k4, CDD, k4, yo; repeat from * around.

Round 2: * P1, k2, p1, k11; repeat from * around.

Round 3: * P1, BC, p1, k1, yo, k3, CDD, k3, yo, k1; repeat from * around.

Round 4: * P1, k2, p1, k11; repeat from * around.

Round 5: * P1, BC, p1, k2, yo, k2, CDD, k2, yo, k2; repeat from * around.

Round 6: * P1, k2, p1, k11; repeat from * around.

Round 7: * P1, BC, p1, k3, yo, k1, CDD, k1, yo, k3; repeat from * around.

Round 8: * P1, k2, p1, k11; repeat from * around.

Round 9: * P1, BC, p1, k4, yo, CDD, yo, k4; repeat from * around.

Round 10: * P1, k2, p1, k11; repeat from * around.

Repeat Rounds 1-10 for Lace Pattern (circular).

Chart: https://www.stitchfiddle.com/en/c/son6if-42h646

Lace Pattern (flat)

Worked over a multiple of 15 sts plus 1.

Note: Hat is worked entirely in the round. The flat version of Lace Pattern is given here for the purposes of measuring gauge only.

Row 1 (RS): * P1, BC (see Cable Stitches), p1, yo, k4, CDD, k4, yo; repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 2: K1, * p11, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to end.

Row 3: * P1, BC, p1, k1, yo, k3, CDD, k3, yo, k1; repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 4: K1, * p11, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to end.

Row 5: * P1, BC, p1, k2, yo, k2, CDD, k2, yo, k2; repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 6: K1, * p11, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to end.

Row 7: * P1, BC, p1, k3, yo, k1, CDD, k1, yo, k3; repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 8: K1, * p11, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to end.

Row 9: * P1, BC, p1, k4, yo, CDD, yo, k4; repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 10: K1, * p11, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat Rows 1-10 for Lace Pattern (flat).

Chart: https://www.stitchfiddle.com/en/c/son6h8-8327m5

Notes

💡 Pattern Notes

Directions are for size S; changes for sizes M & L are in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

This hat is worked from the bottom up in the round, featuring a simple 1×1 ribbed brim, an increase round to set up the lace stitch count, and an elegant 10-row lace pattern body — all worked in the round on circular needles. Crown shaping switches to double-pointed needles.

Blocking Note: Lace can grow significantly during blocking, and some yarns stretch more than others. Plan accordingly when choosing your needle size. If needed, go down 1–2 needle sizes to achieve a blocked measurement and fit that is not too slouchy.

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Bashful Knit Lace Hat in blush pink — front view showing the lace crown and slouchy silhouette

Bashful Knit Lace Slouchy Hat || Pattern Instructions

Charts

Lace Pattern (circular): https://www.stitchfiddle.com/en/c/son6if-42h646

Lace Pattern (flat): https://www.stitchfiddle.com/en/c/son6h8-8327m5

Crown: https://www.stitchfiddle.com/en/c/son6im-1h2d94

BRIM

Cast on 80 (90, 100) sts onto circular needle.

Join round being careful to not twist cast-on edge, and mark first st.

Work in 1 x 1 Rib (circular) for 1½” [4 cm].

BODY

For Sizes S and L Only:

Next 2 rounds:

Round 1 (increase round): * K1, p1, kfb twice; repeat from * around.

Count: 120 (x, 150 sts).

Round 2: * K1, p1; repeat from * around.

For Size M Only:

Next 2 rounds:

Round 1 (increase round): * K1, p1, kfb twice; repeat from * to last 2 sts, kfb, k1.

Count: 135 sts.

Round 2: * K1, p1; repeat from * to last st, k1.

For All Sizes:

Count: 120 (135, 150) sts.

Work 34 (34, 44) rounds in Lace Pattern, ending after a pattern Round 4.

CROWN

Crown Chart: https://www.stitchfiddle.com/en/c/son6im-1h2d94

Shape Crown as follows, changing to double-pointed needles when sts no longer fit around the circular needle:

Round 1: * P1, BC, p1, ssk, yo, k2, CDD, k2, yo, k2tog; repeat from * around.

Count: 104 (117, 130) sts.
Round 2: * P1, k2, p1, k9; repeat from * around.
Round 3: * P1, BC, p1, ssk, yo, k1, CDD, k1, yo, k2tog; repeat from * around.

Count: 88 (99, 110) sts.

Round 4: * P1, k2, p1, k7; repeat from * around.
Round 5: * P1, BC, p1, ssk, yo, CDD, yo, k2tog; repeat from * around.

Count: 72 (81, 90) sts.
Round 6: * P1, k2, p1, k5; repeat from * around.
Round 7: * P1, BC, p1, s3k2tog; repeat from * around.

Count: 40 (45, 50) sts.
Round 8: * P1, k2, p1, k1; repeat from * around.
Round 9: * P2tog twice, k1; repeat from * around.

Count: 24 (27, 30) sts.
Round 10: * P2, k1; repeat from * around.
Round 11: * P2tog, k1; repeat from * around.

Count: 16 (18, 20) sts.
Round 12: * P1, k1; repeat from * around.

Cut yarn, leaving a 12″ [30.5 cm] tail.

Use tapestry needle to slide tail through all remaining sts, then pull tight like a drawstring.

Thread yarn to inside and secure.

FINISHING

Weave in all loose ends.

Wash and Block Your Bashful Hat

🎉 Wet Blocking: The Step That Makes Lace Magic Happen ✨

Wet blocking is like sending your yarn on a spa retreat… it's the process where your yarn unwinds, enjoys a soothing cleanse, and settles gracefully into its final form, allowing its true beauty to flourish.

Here's how to pamper your finished Bashful hat:

1. Submerge your hat in a basin of cool water. Add a splash of Eucalan wool wash (no-rinse formula is easiest!) to gently clean and condition the fibers.

2. Remove as much water as you can without twisting or wringing… press against the sink, gently squeeze between your palms. Always support the whole hat when lifting so nothing stretches out of shape.

3. Lay on a large towel, fold the ends over, and roll it up burrito-style to wick away moisture. You want damp, not soaking — and definitely not dry.

4. Place on your blocking board and use blocking pins to secure. Blocking wires are ideal for lace work — thread them through the edges to get crisp, even lines!

🚨 Use EXTRA care to avoid overstretching! Wet merino-silk will grow willingly — check your measurements as you go.

5. Leave to dry completely (a full day is typical). Set up a fan to speed things up. Avoid direct sunlight — it can discolor the yarn!

Marly's tip: Blocking lace is not optional — it's where the magic happens. That slightly crumpled thing on your needles? Pin it out, let it dry, and watch it transform into something ethereal. Trust the process…

Optional finishing touch: attach a leather tag with leather rivets for a beautiful, boutique-style look on your finished hat. 🏷️

More Free Knit Hat Patterns You'll Love 🧶

Love the Bashful? Here are more free knit hat patterns waiting for you…

🎀 Free Ribbed Knit Hat Pattern — the Double Dip — A fun dip-stitch ribbed hat that's great for adventurous beginners. Warm, stretchy, and endlessly wearable.

🎀 Free Slouchy Knit Hat Pattern — Another slouchy silhouette for hat lovers. Classic construction, relaxed fit.

🎀 Free Knit Lace Hat Pattern — More lace hat goodness if you've caught the lace bug after the Bashful!

🎀 All Marly Bird Free Knit Hat Patterns → — Browse the full collection of free knit hat patterns on the blog.

✨ Designer Tip: Once you've made the Bashful, try it in a different colorway or even a solid vs. variegated yarn — lace looks completely different depending on your yarn choice. A tonal hand-dyed is next level…

Final Thoughts

The Bashful Knit Lace Hat is one of those patterns that proves lace doesn't have to be scary… it just has to be intentional. You're creating beauty with every yarn over, every decrease, every stitch. And when you block it? Pure magic.

If you cast it on, please please please share your progress… tag me @marlybird on Instagram or Facebook and use #MMMDI (Marly Made Me Do It), #MarlyBird, or #BashfulKnitHat so I can see your gorgeous Bashful hat. 💛

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

A cartoon avatar of a person with glasses and a brown bun smiles warmly. Their green shirt and black jacket add a stylish touch, while colorful hearts surround them like loving temperature blankets, stitching together an aura of love and positivity. -Marly Bird

Frequently Asked Questions

What Weight Yarn Does the Bashful Hat Use?

The Bashful is designed for DK weight yarn (CYCA #3) — specifically Universal Yarns Eden Silk (75% merino wool, 25% silk). DK weight is a beautiful sweet spot for lace: light enough to drape elegantly, sturdy enough to hold the lace structure beautifully. Check out the yarn substitutes section above if you want to try a different DK merino or merino-silk option…

Do I Really Need to Block This Hat?

Yes — blocking is not optional for lace. Before blocking, your hat will look crumpled and the lace stitches will look closed and tight. After wet blocking, the yarn relaxes, the lace opens up into its true form, and the hat reaches its finished measurements. Think of blocking as the last step of the pattern, not the optional extra…

How Do I Know What Size to Make?

Choose the size closest to your actual head circumference — the finished brim measurements are S: 16″, M: 18″, L: 20″. Remember that the lace will grow slightly after blocking, so if you're between sizes, go down a size. Make a gauge swatch, block it, and measure to make sure you're on track before casting on…

What If My Lace Stitches Look Sloppy?

Tension in lace takes a little practice… the key is consistent tension on your yarn overs and decreases. Don't worry if your first few stitches look loose or uneven — they'll tighten up once the pattern finds its rhythm. And blocking will open up even slightly-tight lace and even out tension inconsistencies. Trust the process…

What's a Lifeline and Do I Need One?

A lifeline is a strand of smooth yarn or thread threaded through a complete round of stitches every 5–10 rounds. If you drop a stitch or need to rip back, the lifeline stops the damage at that round instead of letting it unravel further. For lace, a lifeline is like insurance… definitely optional, but absolutely worth it if you're new to lace. Watch Marly's lifeline tutorial here →

How Often Should I Wash This Hat?

Wash it whenever it needs it… I recommend gentle hand-washing in cool water with Eucalan or another wool wash. Lay flat to dry. If the lace stitches start to tighten up with wear, a quick gentle wet blocking will open them right back up…

Where Did the Name Come From?

The blush pink colorway inspired everything… there's something about that soft, rosy tone that feels gentle and a little bit shy. “Bashful” captured that feeling perfectly — delicate, pretty, and quietly elegant. Just like the best lace…

Sycamore Ruana: Free Knit Ruana Pattern With Lace & Cables

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The Sycamore Ruana is a free knit ruana pattern designed by Marly Bird, originally from the Turkey Trot 2020 Mystery Make-Along held during Thanksgiving 2020.

This intermediate ruana features lace panels, small and big cables, built-in pockets, and is available in two sizes (S-XL and 2XL-5XL). Complete pattern instructions, abbreviations, special stitches, and video tutorials are included below.

Sycamore Knit Ruana by Marly Bird — free intermediate lace and cable knit pattern

⚡ Quick Answer:

The Sycamore Ruana is a free knit pattern designed by Marly Bird for intermediate knitters. It features lace and cable details, built-in pockets, and comes in sizes S-XL (64″ finished chest) and 2XL-5XL (76″ finished chest). You'll need Patons Classic Wool Worsted in worsted weight, US 9 circular needles, and a gauge of 20 sts × 26 rows = 4″ in Stockinette.

Hey, BiCrafty Bestie! 💛 If you've been looking for a knit ruana pattern with personality — one that combines lace work, cabling, AND functional pockets… you're in for a treat. The Sycamore Ruana is a personal favorite of mine because it's structured and wearable, but the stitch patterns keep your hands engaged from setup through finishing. The folded construction means the shaping is baked right in, and the built-in pockets? Game-changer for those of us who want our makes to be as practical as they are pretty.

🧶 Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and it helps support free patterns and content from my yarn-loving heart 💛 See my privacy policy here.

↓ Jump to the pattern →

Free Sycamore Knit Ruana pattern by Marly Bird — lace, cables, and built-in pockets

Why You'll Love This Pattern 💖

✨ Lace & Cabling Combined: The Sycamore Ruana pairs elegant lace panels with structured cables, giving you a pattern that's as rewarding to work as it is beautiful to wear.

🎯 Built-In Pockets: The pocket linings serve double duty — they're integrated into the construction AND they function as your gauge swatches, so nothing gets wasted.

✨ Designer Tip: The pocket linings aren't just functional… they're your built-in gauge swatches! Work them first, wash and block them, and measure carefully. They'll tell you exactly how your yarn behaves before you commit to the full body of the ruana.

📏 Flexible Sizing: Available in two size groups (S-XL and 2XL-5XL), plus tips for customizing the fit if you fall between sizes or need length adjustments.

This is your pattern if you're ready to tackle lace and cables in the same project, love structured garments with room to move, and appreciate the thoughtful problem-solving that goes into a well-designed pattern. You'll come away knowing how to work lace panels, execute cable crosses cleanly, and finish a complex garment with confidence.

Quick Pattern Overview

🧶 Intermediate 📐 2 Sizes 🪡 US 9 (5.5mm) Circular 🧶 Worsted Weight Wool 🌿 Lace + Cables 👜 Built-in Pockets

The Sycamore Ruana is worked from the bottom fronts upward, with both front panels meeting at the back neck. From there, the back is worked downward to complete the piece. Once finished, the ruana is folded in half and the sides are seamed to create armholes… it's a smart construction that means you don't need separate armhole shaping. The result is a garment that drapes beautifully and moves with your body.

Blocked Sycamore Knit Ruana showing lace panel detail

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Sycamore Knit Ruana ad-free PDF pattern by Marly Bird

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Which Size Should You Make?

Finished Measurements (after blocking): The smaller size (S-XL) measures 64″ around the chest and 22″ in length when folded. The larger size (2XL-5XL) measures 76″ around the chest and 30″ in length when folded. Both sizes are meant to be worn as a ruana — a relaxed, drapey layer that sits on the shoulders.

Customizing Between Sizes: If you fall between sizes, you have flexibility. For a petite frame in a larger size, use the stitch count for the larger size but the row count for the smaller size — this gives you the width without the extra length. For a taller build in the smaller size, reverse it: stitch count from the smaller size, row count from the larger. Measure a finished ruana or cardigan you love to help guide your decision.

About Gauge: Gauge isn't essential for this pattern — the ruana is forgiving because of its construction. That said, checking gauge will help you know how much yardage you'll need and ensure your finished measurements match the pattern's. A swatch is never wasted; you'll weave the ends in and call it done.

Marly Bird wearing the Sycamore Knit Ruana

Yarn & Materials

Yarn: The pattern is written for Patons Classic Wool Worsted (100% pure new wool, 194 yards / 177 meters per 3.5 oz / 100g skein, CYCA #4 worsted weight). You'll need 8 skeins for the S-XL size or 10 skeins for the 2XL-5XL size. The original was stitched in Gray Plum — a beautiful sophisticated tone that lets the stitch patterns shine.

Yarn Alternatives

Looking for a substitute? The Sycamore Ruana needs a worsted-weight wool with good stitch definition — the cables and lace look best in a yarn that blocks well and holds its shape. Here are some great options:

🧶 KnitPicks Wool of the Andes Worsted — 100% Peruvian Highland wool, excellent stitch definition, budget-friendly.

🧶 KnitPicks Wool of the Andes Tweed — same great wool base with flecks of color that add subtle visual interest without competing with the stitch pattern.

🧶 Cascade 220 Superwash — machine washable 100% superwash wool, beautiful drape for a garment, and available in a gorgeous color range.

🧶 Malabrigo Rios — a hand-dyed superwash merino worsted that takes blocking beautifully and adds a subtle color depth that really makes cables pop.

🧶 Berroco Vintage Worsted — a wool/acrylic/nylon blend that's machine washable and forgiving… great if you're newer to knitting with wool.

Always check your gauge swatch with your chosen yarn before committing all your yardage!

✨ Designer Tip: For a lace and cable project like this, avoid yarns with too much halo (like mohair blends) — the fuzz will obscure the stitch definition you've worked so hard for. Smooth, round wool yarns show cables and lace at their very best.
Sycamore Knit Ruana blocked — cable detail close-up

Notions & Tools

⭐️ Marly Bird Amazon Storefront ⭐️

Video Tutorials

If you're a visual learner, these video tutorials cover the techniques you'll use in the Sycamore Ruana. Watch them before you cast on, or keep them handy as you work through the pattern.

Sycamore Knit Ruana free knit pattern by Marly Bird

Sycamore Ruana || Pattern Details

Skill Level

Intermediate. You should be comfortable with knit and purl stitches, increases and decreases, and basic cable work. Lace is a bonus skill that you'll build through this pattern.

Finished Measurements

Chest (after blocking): 64″ [162 cm] for S-XL | 76″ [193 cm] for 2XL-5XL
Length (folded, after blocking): 22″ [56 cm] for S-XL | 30″ [76 cm] for 2XL-5XL

Gauge

20 sts × 26 rows = 4″ [10 cm] in Stockinette stitch on US 9 [5.5mm] needles. This is a Blocked Gauge!

Gauge is helpful for knowing yardage needs and final measurements, but the construction is forgiving if you're slightly off.

Materials

Yarn: Patons Classic Wool Worsted (100% pure new wool, 194 yds / 177 m, 3½ oz / 100 g, CYCA #4 worsted). 8 skeins in Gray Plum for S-XL | 10 skeins for 2XL-5XL.

Needles: Two US 9 [5.5mm] 40″ [101.5cm] circular needles, worked flat (the length accommodates the width of the ruana).

Notions: Stitch markers

Tapestry needle 

Scissors

Tape measure

Stitch Saver Cord

Cable Needle

Notions Bag for Supplies

Blocking Squares

Blocking Pins 

Soaking Basin

Eucalan Wool Wash

Blocking Wires 

Abbreviations

K — knit | K2tog — knit 2 together | P — purl | Pm — place marker | RS — right side | Sk2p — slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over | Slm — slip marker | Ssk — slip, slip, knit | St(s) — stitch(es) | Tbl — through back loop | WS — wrong side | Yo — yarn over

Sycamore Knit Ruana showing full drape after wet blocking

Special Stitches

Sk2p: Slip next st knitwise, k2tog, pass slipped st over — 2 sts decreased.

Ssk: Slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time, knit together from front — 1 st decreased. For a flatter decrease that blends better with lace, you can also slip the needle into the front leg of the next st (don't knit), insert into the back leg of the second st, yarn over, and knit both together.

1/1 LPC: Slip 1 st to cable needle, hold to front; p1 from left needle; k1 from cable needle.

1/1 RPC: Slip 1 st to cable needle, hold to back; k1 from left needle; p1 from cable needle.

3/3 RibLC: Slip 3 sts to cable needle, hold to front; [k1, p1, k1] from left needle; [k1, p1, k1] from cable needle.

3/3 RibRC: Slip 3 sts to cable needle, hold to back; [k1, p1, k1] from left needle; [k1, p1, k1] from cable needle.

3/3 RibLPC: Slip 3 sts to cable needle, hold to front; [p1, k1, p1] from left needle; [p1, k1, p1] from cable needle.

3/3 RibRPC: Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold in back, [p1, k1, p1] from left needle, then [p1, k1, p1] from cable needle.

Charts

Sycamore Ruana stitch key chart
Sycamore Ruana lower left front stitch diagram
Sycamore Ruana lower right front stitch diagram
Sycamore Ruana upper left front stitch diagram
Sycamore Ruana upper right front stitch diagram
Sycamore Knit Ruana ad-free PDF pattern by Marly Bird

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Schematic

Sycamore Knit Ruana schematic showing finished measurements and construction

Notes

  • Directions are for the smaller size; changes for the larger size are in parentheses. When only one number is given then that number applies to both sizes.
  • Ruana is worked beginning at bottom fronts, joining together at back neck, and continuing in one piece to bottom back. It is then folded in half and seamed at the sides to create armholes.
  • Ruana is worked back and forth in rows. Circular needles are used to accommodate the full width of the sts.
  • For a petite larger size follow the stitch count for the larger size and row count for the smaller size. 
  • For taller size small follow the stitch count for the smaller size and the row count for the larger size. 
  • Ruana features easy-to-join pockets. The pocket linings can double as your gauge swatch.
  • 1 st at each edge is worked in Garter st (knit every row) throughout.
  • 2 x 2 Rib stitches are highlighted in YELLOW throughout.
  • Lace Panel stitches are highlighted in PINK throughout.
  • Small Cable Pattern stitches are highlighted in BLUE throughout.
  • Big Cable Panel stitches are highlighted in GREEN throughout.

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Sycamore Knit Ruana by Marly Bird — intermediate free knit ruana pattern

Sycamore Ruana || Pattern Instructions

POCKET LININGS

Note: These can serve as your gauge swatches as well!

Make both the same as follows:

Cast on 32 sts.

Rows 1-4 (begin RS): Knit.

Row 5 (WS): Purl.

Row 6 (RS): Knit.

Repeat Rows 5 and 6 only 18 times more, then Row 5 only once more. 

Place sts on a holder and cut the yarn leaving a long tail that you can later use for seaming.

RIGHT FRONT RIBBING

Cast on 100 (116) sts.

Row 1 (WS): K1, p to last st, k1.

Row 2 (RS): K1, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3. 

Row 3 (WS): K1, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 only until this piece measures 2” [5 cm] from cast-on edge. 

RIGHT FRONT – LOWER BODY

Row 1 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, pm, k1 tbl, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1 tbl, pm, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 15 times, k1 tbl, pm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1. 

Row 2 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, [p2, k2] 14 times, p2, k1, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 3 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1 tbl, slm, p1, [k2, p2] 14 times, k2, p1, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1. 

 Row 4 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, [p2, k2] 14 times, p2, k1, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 5 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1 tbl, slm, [1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC] 15 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 6 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, p1, [k2, p2] 14 times, k2, p1, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 7 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1 tbl, slm, k1, [p2, k2] 14 times, p2, k1, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 8 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, p1, [k2, p2] 14 times, k2, p1, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Repeat Rows 1-8 5 more times.

RIGHT FRONT – JOIN POCKETS TO UPPER BODY

Row 1 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1 tbl, slm, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 3 times, place next 32 sts a holder or Stitch Saver cord, pm, then with RS of 32 pocket sts facing, work across as follows: k1 tbl, [p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2] 3 times, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1 tbl, pm, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 4 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1. 

Row 2 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, [k1, p2, k1] 4 times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1] 3 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 3 times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 3 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 3 times, slm, k1 tbl, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, 3/3 RibRC, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 4 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1. 

Row 4 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, [k1, p2, k1] 4 times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1] 3 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 3 times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 5 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1 tbl, slm, [1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC ] 3 times, slm, k1 tbl, [p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2] 3 times, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1 tbl, slm, [1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC ] 4 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 6 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, [p1, k2, p1] 4 times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1] 3 times, p1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 3 times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 7 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 3 times, slm, k1 tbl, 3/3 RibLPC, k2, 3/3 RibRPC, k2, 3/3 RibLPC, k2, 3/3 RibRPC, k1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 4 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 8 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, [p1, k2, p1] 4 times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1] 3 times, p1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 3 times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 9 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1 tbl, slm, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 3 times, slm, k1 tbl, [p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2] 3 times, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1 tbl, slm, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 4 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1. 

Row 10 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, [k1, p2, k1] 4 times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1] 3 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 3 times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 11 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 3 times, slm, k1 tbl, p1, k1, p2, 3/3 RibLC, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, 3/3 RibLC, p2, k1, p1, k1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 4 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1. 

Row 12 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, [k1, p2, k1] 4 times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1] 3 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 3 times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 13 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1 tbl, slm, [1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC] 3 times, slm, k1 tbl, [p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2] 3 times, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1 tbl, slm, [1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC] 4 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 14 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, [p1, k2, p1] 4 times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1] 3 times, p1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 3 times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 15 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 3 times, slm, k1 tbl, 3/3 RibRPC, k2, 3/3 RibLPC, k2, 3/3 RibRPC, k2, 3/3 RibLPC, k1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 4 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 16 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, [p1, k2, p1] 4 times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1] 3 times, p1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 3 times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Note: The Pocket sts are only held and worked the first time Row 1 is worked; on all other repeats, skip that step.

Repeat Rows 1–16 until piece measures approximately 22 (30)” [56 (76) cm] from beginning, ending after a Row 8.

Note: This is the total length from the shoulder to hem. For a longer length, add one 16-row repeat, or for a shorter length work one fewer 16-row repeat.

Break yarn leaving all sts on the needle.

LEFT FRONT RIBBING

Work the same as for Right Front ribbing.

LEFT FRONT – LOWER BODY

Row 1 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, pm, k1 tbl, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 15 times, pm, k1 tbl, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1 tbl, pm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1. 

Row 2 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, k1, [p2, k2] 14 times, p2, k1, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 3 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, p1, [k2, p2] 14 times, k2, p1, slm, k1 tbl, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1. 

Row 4 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, k1, [p2, k2] 14 times, p2, k1, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 5 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC] 15 times, slm, k1 tbl, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 6 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, p1, [k2, p2] 14 times, k2, p1, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 7 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, k1, [p2, k2] 14 times, p2, k1, slm, k1 tbl, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 8 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, p1, [k2, p2] 14 times, k2, p1, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Repeat Rows 1-8 5 more times.

LEFT FRONT – JOIN POCKETS TO UPPER BODY

Row 1 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 4 times, place the next 32 sts onto a holder or Stitch Saver cord, pm, then with RS of 32 pocket sts facing, work across as follows: k1 tbl, [p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2] 3 times, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1 tbl, pm, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 3 times, slm, k1 tbl, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1. 

Row 2 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 3 times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1] 3 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 4 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 3 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [p1, k2, p1] 4 times, slm, k1 tbl, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, 3/3 RibRC, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 3 times, slm, k1 tbl, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1. 

Row 4 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 3 times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1] 3 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 4 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 5 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC] 4 times, slm, k1 tbl, [p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2] 3 times, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1 tbl, slm, [1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC] 3 times, slm, k1 tbl, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 6 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 3 times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1] 3 times, p1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 4 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 7 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [k1, p2, k1] 4 times, slm, k1 tbl, 3/3 RibLPC, k2, 3/3 RibRPC, k2, 3/3 RibLPC, k2, 3/3 RibRPC, k1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 3 times, slm, k1 tbl, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 8 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 3 times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1] 3 times, p1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 4 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 9 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 4 times, slm, k1 tbl, [p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2] 3 times, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1 tbl, slm, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 3 times, slm, k1 tbl, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1. 

Row 10 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 3 times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1] 3 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 4 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 11 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [p1, k2, p1] 4 times, slm, k1 tbl, p1, k1, p2, 3/3 RibLC, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, 3/3 RibLC, p2, k1, p1, k1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 3 times, slm, k1 tbl, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1. 

Row 12 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 3 times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1] 3 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 4 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 13 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC] 4 times, slm, k1 tbl, [p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k2] 3 times, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1 tbl, slm, [1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC] 3 times, slm, k1 tbl, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 14 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 3 times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1] 3 times, p1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 4 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 15 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [k1, p2, k1] 4 times, slm, k1 tbl, 3/3 RibRPC, k2, 3/3 RibLPC, k2, 3/3 RibRPC, k2, 3/3 RibLPC, k1 tbl, slm, [k1, p2, k1] 3 times, slm, k1 tbl, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, k1, sk2p, k1, YO, k1, YO, k2tog tbl, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 16 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, p11, p1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 3 times, slm, p1 tbl, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, [p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1] 3 times, p1 tbl, slm, [p1, k2, p1] 4 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Note: The Pocket sts are only held and worked the first time Row 1 is worked; on all other repeats, skip that step.

Repeat Rows 1–16 until piece measures approximately 22 (30)” [56 (76) cm] from beginning, ending after a Row 8.

Note: This is the total length from the shoulder to hem. For a longer length, add one 16-row repeat, or for a shorter length work one fewer 16-row repeat.

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JOIN FRONTS TO MAKE A BACK

Continue using yarn attached to Left Front to join Fronts as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Work across Left Front sts as follows: k1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 4 times, remove marker, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 8 times, remove marker, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 3 times, remove marker, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 3 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, p1; use same needle and yarn to work across Right Front sts as follows: p1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 3 times, remove marker, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 3 times, remove marker, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 8 times, remove marker, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 4 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Count: 200 (232) sts.

Marly Bird wearing the blocked Sycamore Knit Ruana

BACK NECK RIBBING

Row 2 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, [k1, p2, k1] 18 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 6 (10) times, k2, slm, p1 tbl, [k1, p2, k1] 18 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 3 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [p1, k2, p1] 18 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 6 (10) times, p2, slm, k1 tbl, [p1, k2, p1] 18 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1. 

Row 4 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, [k1, p2, k1] 18 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 6 (10) times, k2, slm, p1 tbl, [k1, p2, k1] 18 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 5 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC] 18 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 6 (10) times, p2, slm, k1 tbl, [1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC] 18 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 6 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, [p1, k2, p1] 18 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 6 (10) times, k2, slm, p1 tbl, [p1, k2, p1] 18 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 7 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [k1, p2, k1] 18 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 6 (10) times, p2, slm, k1 tbl, [k1, p2, k1] 18 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 8 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, [p1, k2, p1] 18 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 6 (10) times, k2, slm, p1 tbl, [p1, k2, p1] 18 times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Sycamore Knit Ruana lifestyle photo

BACK AFTER NECK RIBBING

Row 1 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 18 times, 1/1 LPC removing marker, [1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC] 6 (10) times, 1/1 RPC removing marker, [1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC] 18 times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 2 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, [k1, p2, k1] 43 (47) times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 3 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [p1, k2, p1] 43 (47) times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1. 

Row 4 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, [k1, p2, k1] 43 (47) times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 5 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC] 43 (47) times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 6 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, [p1, k2, p1] 43 (47) times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 7 (RS): K1, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, slm, k1 tbl, [k1, p2, k1] 43 (47) times, k1 tbl, slm, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Row 8 (WS): K1, [p2, k2] 3 (5) times, slm, p1 tbl, [p1, k2, p1] 43 (47) times, p1 tbl, slm, [k2, p2] 3 (5) times, k1.

Repeat Rows 1–8 13 (19) more times.

Note: Make adjustments to length same as for Fronts, if necessary. The Back should now match the length of the Fronts to the Ribbing. 

Place a removable marker into the end of the row to use for measuring the ribbing.

Sycamore Knit Ruana blocked and finished

BOTTOM BACK RIBBING

Row 1 (RS): K1, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3. 

Row 2 (WS): K1, * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until Back Ribbing measures 2” [5 cm] from the marked row. 

Bind off all sts loosely in rib pattern.

Finishing

Weave in all ends carefully, securing them as you go. Wet block the finished ruana, paying special attention to opening up the lace panels and evening out the cables. Use blocking wires to hold the edges straight and blocking squares to support the piece as it dries. Allow 24—48 hours for complete drying.

Blocking the Sycamore Ruana 🌊

Blocking isn't optional for this pattern… it's where the magic happens. The lace panels won't reach their full, open beauty until they've been wet blocked. The cables will even out and settle into their pattern. And the drape — the gorgeous, wearable drape of a well-blocked wool ruana — simply cannot happen if you skip this step. Budget time for it at the end, and the result will take your breath away.

Marly Bird blocking the Sycamore Knit Ruana on foam mats

What You'll Need for Blocking

Eucalan Wool Wash (or another no-rinse wool wash) — soak the finished piece in cool water with a capful for 15-20 minutes. No wringing, no agitation.

Blocking mats or squares — you'll need enough surface area to lay the ruana flat. On a bed covered with a clean towel works too.

Rust-proof T-pins — pin the edges to your measurements. Rusting pins will leave permanent marks on your wool.

Blocking wires — thread these through the edges of the lace panels before pinning. They create a smooth, straight edge that individual pins alone can't achieve.

Step-by-Step Wet Blocking

Step 1 — Soak. Fill a basin or clean sink with cool water and add a capful of wool wash. Submerge the finished ruana and let it soak for 15-20 minutes. Don't swish or agitate — just let it absorb the water fully.

Step 2 — Remove excess water. Gently squeeze the ruana (don't wring or twist). Lay it on a dry towel and roll the towel up around it, pressing firmly to absorb more water. Unroll and lift the piece.

Step 3 — Shape to measurements. Lay the ruana flat on your blocking mats and shape it to the finished measurements listed in the pattern. For the lace panels: thread blocking wires through the edge stitches before pinning the wires out straight. Pin every 1-2 inches along the edges to hold the shape.

Step 4 — Let it dry completely. Allow 24-48 hours depending on your climate and air circulation. The ruana must be fully dry before you unpin it — picking it up while still damp will let the fibers relax back into an unblocked state. A fan nearby speeds things up nicely.

✨ Designer Tip: You can re-block wool anytime! If your Sycamore Ruana gets crumpled in storage or loses its shape after washing, a light wet blocking session will refresh it completely. 100% wool is incredibly forgiving that way… it has a kind of shape-memory that comes back with moisture and gentle handling.

About Superwash Wool Substitutes

If you're substituting a superwash wool (like Cascade 220 Superwash or Malabrigo Rios), note that superwash fibers block differently than standard wool. Superwash can relax and grow significantly when wet — especially in a large, heavy garment like this. Your finished measurements may be slightly larger than the pattern states. Swatch, wash your swatch, and measure again before you cast on the full project.

Sycamore Knit Ruana free pattern by Marly Bird

More Free Knit Patterns You'll Love 🧶

A person models a blue cable knit cowl, showing off its textured stitches; they wear glasses and a dark denim jacket.
A person models a green crochet ruana cardigan with visible stitch detailing, shown worn over a black shirt in a cozy room.

Know Your Worth Knit Cocoon Cardigan — a free knit cocoon cardigan pattern that's all about cozy, oversized comfort. Perfect if the Sycamore Ruana has you in the mood for more wearable knits.

Smokey Graphite Men's Knit Pullover — a simple-texture crewneck with a generous oversized fit. Find it on Ravelry.

Adam's Ribbed Zipper Knit Cardigan — classic ribbed cardigan with zipper front. Available in the pattern shop.

Harbor Ridge Knit Vest & Sweater — a two-in-one pattern: wear it as a classic vest or add sleeves for a full sweater. Great next project once you've mastered the Sycamore.

Fairhope Cable Knit Cowl — practice your cable work in a shorter project. This free cable cowl is a great warm-up for the cables in the Sycamore Ruana.

Creekside Crochet Ruana — love the ruana shape but prefer to crochet? The Creekside is your BiCrafty answer… free pattern, built-in pockets, and just as cozy.

Sycamore Knit Ruana — frequently asked questions

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I substitute a different yarn?

Absolutely! Any worsted-weight wool or wool blend with similar yardage (around 194 yards per 100 grams) will work. Just check your gauge with your chosen yarn before committing all of your yarn, since different yarns have different stretch and drape characteristics.

What if I've never done lace or cables before?

This pattern is labeled “Intermediate” because it combines lace and cable work in the same project. Watch the video tutorials before you start, and don't hesitate to use a lifeline as you work through the lace sections. The cable sections are straightforward once you get the rhythm.

How long does the Sycamore Ruana take to make?

That depends on your speed and experience, but most makers report 40—60 hours of knitting time. If you're comfortable with the techniques, you can expect closer to the lower end of that range.

Do I need to block this pattern?

Blocking is highly recommended, especially for the lace and cable detail. Wet blocking will open up the lace panels and even out the cables, making the finished piece look polished and professional.

Can I customize the length or width?

Yes, and the pattern notes include guidance for customizing between sizes. For width, you can adjust stitch counts; for length, adjust row counts. Test your changes on a swatch or paper before committing to the full pattern.

Sycamore Knit Ruana — close-up detail of lace and cable panels
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Final Thoughts

The Sycamore Ruana is a pattern that rewards careful, thoughtful knitting — the kind of project that teaches you something new with every row and results in a wearable you'll treasure for years. The lace and cables balance visual interest with the practical ease of a ruana shape, and those built-in pockets? Pure genius.

If you cast it on, please please please share your progress with me! Tag me @marlybird on Instagram or Facebook and use #MMMDI (Marly Made Me Do It), #MarlyBird, or #SycamoreRuana so I can see your beautiful makes. 💛

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

A cartoon avatar of a person with glasses and a brown bun smiles warmly. Their green shirt and black jacket add a stylish touch, while colorful hearts surround them like loving temperature blankets, stitching together an aura of love and positivity. -Marly Bird

This or That Make-Along 2026: Knit & Crochet Balaclava Patterns

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Have you ever wanted to make a balaclava but weren't sure where to start? You're in the right place — and you have perfect timing. The This or That Make-Along 2026 is HERE, and we are making balaclavas! Choose your craft: the Chill Guard Knit Balaclava or the Frost Guard Crochet Balaclava. Both patterns drop September 5th — get the beautifully formatted PDF plus exclusive video instruction inside Marly Bird House and make it alongside the community that weekend.

This is a project that has been highly requested by this community for years. I'm so excited to finally deliver it. No more hat hair. No more cold neck. Just one beautifully handmade piece that covers you from chin to crown. Let's make it together!

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. To learn more please visit my privacy policy here 💖

🗓️ About the This or That Make-Along 2026

The This or That Make-Along is one of my favorite events because it celebrates what makes this community so special: we've got knitters, we've got crocheters, and we've got BiCrafty folks who do both. This year we're each picking our craft and making a balaclava over the September 5–6 weekend.

Once you grab your PDF bundle, the videos will be released inside Marly Bird House that weekend — and they'll be available to you anytime, forever, whenever you want to watch them.

📅 Mark Your Calendar

  • September 5th at 9am ET — Patterns drop! Grab yours and cast on
  • September 5–6 weekend — Make-along weekend! Make yours, share yours, cheer for each other
  • Marly's Minions BiCrafty Community — Join us on Facebook for pinned posts, community shares, and make-along fun

🤴 Already knit and crochet? Great news — you can make both! They'd make incredible gifts together.

❄️ The Chill Guard — Knit Balaclava Pattern

The Chill Guard is a mosaic colorwork knit balaclava worked in worsted weight yarn. It's designed for adventurous beginners — if you can knit and purl and you're curious about mosaic colorwork, you're ready for this. Marly made hers in about a day and a half.

🧶 Chill Guard Quick Stats

  • Craft: Knitting
  • Skill Level: Adventurous Beginner
  • Technique: Mosaic Colorwork
  • Needle: US 8 (5mm)
  • Yarn: Worsted weight, 5 colors
  • Sizes: Multiple sizes
  • Time to Make: About a day and a half

Great yarn picks: KnitPicks Swish Worsted, KnitPicks Brava Worsted, Lion Brand Wool-Ease, or Berroco Vintage Worsted.

🌿 The Frost Guard — Crochet Balaclava Pattern

The Frost Guard is a crochet balaclava worked with a 6mm hook using Caron Macchiato Cakes. The yarn does the color work for you. One ball, one hook, one stunning color-shifting balaclava. No color changes, no ends to weave — just gorgeous, effortless color that shifts all on its own.

🧶 Frost Guard Quick Stats

  • Craft: Crochet
  • Skill Level: Adventurous Beginner
  • Hook: 6mm
  • Yarn: Caron Macchiato Cakes — just 1 ball!
  • Sizes: Multiple sizes
  • Time to Make: About a day and a half

🎁 Get the PDF + Video Bundle

Get the beautifully formatted PDF plus permanent video tutorial access inside Marly Bird House for just $10 (retail $12.00 — limited time pricing).

🧶

Chill Guard

Knit Balaclava

Retail $12.00

$10.00

Get It →

🧶

Frost Guard

Crochet Balaclava

Retail $12.00

$10.00

Get It →

What's included: Print-ready PDF + permanent video tutorial access in your Marly Bird House library. Yours forever.

❓ Frequently Asked Questions

When do the patterns drop?

Both the Chill Guard (knit) and Frost Guard (crochet) patterns drop September 5th at 9am ET. Grab yours and start making!

Do I have to make it the weekend of September 5–6?

Not at all! Once you grab your pattern, it's yours forever in your Marly Bird House library. The make-along weekend is just a fun excuse to make it alongside everyone else. Make yours whenever you'd like!

Can I make both balaclavas?

Absolutely! If you're BiCrafty — you knit AND crochet — there's nothing stopping you from making both. They'd make incredible gifts!

What skill level do I need?

Both patterns are designed for Adventurous Beginners. They'll challenge you just enough to feel rewarding without being frustrating. Marly walks you through every step in the video.

Where do I share my finished balaclava?

Come share it in Marly's Minions BiCrafty Community on Facebook! We'll have a pinned post during the make-along weekend where everyone is sharing their makes. We'd love to see yours!

Final Thoughts

Pick Your Craft. Grab Your Yarn.
Let's Make Something Beautiful Together. 🧶

Whether you're a knitter, a crocheter, or blissfully BiCrafty — this is YOUR weekend. I made both patterns and I couldn't be more excited to share them with you. One is for stash-busting colorwork lovers. One is for anyone who wants the yarn to do the color magic all by itself. Both are weekend-sized, gift-worthy, and genuinely fun to make.

I'll be making mine right alongside you in Marly's Minions on Facebook. Come share your progress, cheer each other on, and tag your finished piece with #MMMDI. I cannot wait to see what you make. 💖

Deschutes Knit Capelet & Cowl — Free Two-Part Pattern for Adventurous Beginners

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The Deschutes Knit Capelet & Cowl is a free two-part knit pattern designed by Marly Bird, available in three inclusive sizes from XS–M through 3XL–5XL. The capelet is knit in the round from the top down using raglan shaping and a simple A–B–C stripe sequence in bulky superwash merino. The matching Separate Cowl is worked flat in rows and seamed into a cozy loop.

⚡ Quick Answer:

The Deschutes Knit Capelet & Cowl is free right here on the blog! The capelet starts at the neck and fans out with raglan shaping in colorful bulky stripes. The separate cowl is worked flat and seamed into a loop. You need US size 11 (8mm) and 13 (9mm) circular needles and a bulky superwash merino yarn in four coordinating colorways.

Hey, bestie 💛 The Deschutes Knit Capelet & Cowl has lived in my Etsy shop for a while now, but I've decided it wants to be free here on the blog — because some patterns just deserve to reach as many knitters as possible. The colorway combination in this set has my whole heart… those Pacific Northwest-inspired tones layered in bold stripes on a piece you can actually throw on every single day? Yes please. And the best part? It's genuinely beginner-friendly. If you can knit and purl and you've been curious about knitting in the round, this is your invitation. Let's do it. 🧶

🧶 Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and it helps support free patterns and content from my yarn-loving heart 💛 See my privacy policy here.

Jump to the pattern ↓

⭐ Adventurous Beginner 🧶 Bulky #5 Yarn 📐 XS–M · L–2XL · 3XL–5XL 🪡 US 11 (8mm) & 13 (9mm) 🎨 4-Color Stripe Set

Why You'll Love This Pattern 💖

🧶 Two pieces, one cohesive set. The capelet and cowl are designed to be worn together or completely separately. Make both for a stunning coordinated look, or just grab whichever one calls to you first.

🌈 Colorwork without the complexity. This is NOT stranding or intarsia — it's a simple cut-and-join stripe sequence, four rounds per color. If you've been curious about colorwork but scared of it, this is your on-ramp. I designed it that way on purpose.

📐 Top-down raglan shaping you can try on as you go. Starting at the neck and working outward means you can thread a lifeline and put the capelet over your shoulders mid-knit to check the fit. No surprises at the finish line.

This is your pattern if you have the knit and purl stitches solid and you're ready to add knitting in the round, yarn-overs, and color changes all in one project. It's structured enough to teach you something real, relaxed enough that you'll actually enjoy every round.

You'll come away from this set knowing how to work jogless stripes, raglan shaping from the top down, 1×1 ribbing in the round, and flat stockinette with garter edges. That's a complete skills toolkit in one cozy make. 🙌

Quick Pattern Overview

📏 The Capelet is worked in the round from the neck down. You cast on at the neckline, work a few setup rounds in Color A, then begin raglan shaping that fans the piece outward with yarn-over increases at four raglan points. The body grows in colorful A–B–C stripes (4 rounds per color), then you knit straight to length and finish with a 3-inch 1×1 ribbed border. A neck edging in Color C finishes the top.

🪢 The Cowl is worked flat in rows — a reverse stockinette center panel flanked by garter stitch edges. The same stripe sequence runs through it. When it reaches 40 inches, you seam the cast-on to the bind-off edge with mattress stitch to form a cozy loop.

✂️ Cut your yarn at every color change. Don't carry unused colors up the inside — with bulky yarn, those floats create tension issues. The weaving-in goes quickly with chunky merino, I promise.

Love the Pattern but Want an Ad-Free PDF? ⭐

The full Deschutes Knit Capelet & Cowl pattern is free right here on the blog! If you prefer a clean, printable, ad-free version to take to your knitting group or stitch from your tablet without distractions, grab the PDF in my shop. 💛

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Ready to make the Deschutes set? Grab the clean, ad-free, printable PDF, perfect for taking to your knitting group or stitching from your tablet without interruptions. 💛

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Which Size Should You Make?

The Deschutes Capelet comes in three size ranges. Here's how they measure at the finished bottom edge and from neck to hem:

SizeBottom CircumferenceLength (neck to hem)
XS–M55¼” [140 cm]15″ [38 cm]
L–2XL66½” [168.5 cm]16″ [40.5 cm]
3XL–5XL77½” [197 cm]17″ [43 cm]

A capelet is a draped shoulder layer, not a body-hugging garment — you're choosing size based on how much coverage and drape you want over your shoulders and torso. If you're between sizes and want a fuller, more dramatic look, size up. The top-down construction means you can try the piece on mid-knit and add extra width before starting the ribbed border.

✨ Designer Tip: Since this capelet is worked top-down, thread a length of scrap yarn through the live stitches as a lifeline and drape it over your shoulders to check the fit before you commit to the ribbed border. Want it wider? Just keep increasing! Keep an eye on yardage though — more rounds means more yarn.

What Is a Capelet? 🤔

A capelet is a short, circular shoulder cape — it drapes over your shoulders and upper body but has no sleeves or armholes. Think of it as the cozy, stylish little sibling of a full cape. It rests at your neckline and falls anywhere from your upper back to your hips, adding warmth without restricting your arms at all.

Capelets are incredibly wearable layering pieces. They work over sweaters, tanks, turtlenecks… basically everything. They're that piece that makes even a plain outfit look intentional and put-together. And because this one is knit in bulky merino with bold stripes? It's going to be a statement every time you wear it.

💡 Good to Know: The Deschutes Capelet uses raglan shaping — the same yoke construction used in top-down raglan sweaters. You place four markers at the raglan points (two sleeves, front, and back sections) and work yarn-over increases at each one every other round. As you knit down, the fabric fans outward organically. It's one of the most intuitive shaping methods in knitting… and once you learn it here, you'll start seeing it in everything.

Mastering Jogless Stripes 🌈

When you knit stripes in the round, you get a tiny “jog” — a stair-step interruption where the colors meet — because knitting in the round is actually a continuous spiral, not neatly stacked rings. The jogless stripes technique hides that jog so your color changes look perfectly clean and professional.

Watch this before you cast on. Seriously, five minutes now saves you from tinking or frogging later:

✨ Designer Tip: This pattern calls for cutting the old color at each change rather than carrying it. That means more ends to weave in, but cleaner tension and no puckering at the color changes — worth it with bulky yarn. I talk through weaving in ends cleanly in the Finishing section below.

Yarn & Materials

Yarn

The sample uses Rebel Woolworks, Camp (100% superwash merino, 109 yds / 100 m per skein, CYCA #5 bulky). You'll need four coordinating colorways:

  • Color A: Hiking the Cascades (#103782.18) — 2 skeins
  • Color B: Into the Forest (#103782.6) — 2 skeins
  • Color C: Custom Colors: More Lakes (#103782.19) — 2 skeins
  • Color D: Fir (#103782.5) — 1 skein (neck edging + cowl base)

Yarn Substitutes

Look for a CYCA #5 bulky weight superwash merino in a palette of four coordinating colors. Superwash matters here — it blocks beautifully and the stripes will look crisp after a soak. Check gauge: approximately 10 sts per 4 inches on a US size 13 needle.

Swish Bulky

Berroco Ultra Alpaca Chunky Yarn

Malabrigo Mecha Yarn

Sirdar Jewelspun with Wool Chunky Yarn

Needles

Have a longer needle (32″ or more) ready for when your stitch count grows through the raglan increases — the stitches get very snug on a 24″ needle once the capelet fans out.

Notions

⭐️ Marly Bird Amazon Storefront ⭐️

Video Tutorials

Every skill you need for this pattern has a video. Bookmark this section before you cast on!

How to Add a Lifeline (use this before the try-on step in the raglan shaping!):

How to Weave & Bury Ends — for all those color-change tails:

Deschutes Knit Capelet & Cowl || Pattern Details

Skill Level

Adventurous Beginner

Measurements

To Fit Size: XS-M (L-2XL, 3XL-5XL)

Finished Measurements — Capelet:
55¼ (66½, 77½)” [140 (168.5, 197) cm] around bottom edge
15 (16, 17)” [38 (40.5, 43) cm] in length from neck edge to bottom bind off

Finished Measurements — Cowl:
Approximately 40″ [101.5 cm] circumference when seamed

Gauge

10 sts and 14 rounds = 4″ [10 cm] in Stockinette stitch on larger needles

Always swatch! Gauge is what determines your finished measurements. Check yours on the larger (9mm) needle before casting on.

Materials

Yarn: Rebel Woolworks, Camp (100% superwash merino, 109 yds / 100 m, CYCA #5 bulky)
2 skeins #103782.18 Hiking the Cascades (A) • 2 skeins #103782.6 Into the Forest (B)
2 skeins #103782.19 Custom Colors: More Lakes (C) • 1 skein #103782.5 Fir (D)

Needles: Size 11 (8mm), 24″ and longer circular • Size 13 (9mm), 24″ and longer circular

Abbreviations

KKnit
PPurl
PmPlace Marker
RSRight Side
St(s)Stitch(es)
WSWrong Side
YoYarn Over

Notes

  • Directions are for size XS-M; changes for sizes L-2XL and 3XL-5XL are in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
  • Make sure the start-of-round marker is noticeably different from the raglan markers.
  • Slip all markers as you come to them, even when not specifically instructed.
  • Change to longer needles when stitches become uncomfortably snug on shorter needles.
  • Color sequence for body is A, B, C. Change colors every 4 rounds. Use the jogless stripes technique for best results.
  • Cut old color after each change and weave in ends; do not carry unused colors.

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Part 1 — Deschutes Knit Capelet || Pattern Instructions

Neck

With A and larger needle, cast on 58 (62, 66) sts using long-tail cast-on.

Join round and mark first st.

Rounds 1–4 (RS): Knit.

Cut A; continue with B.

Begin Raglan Shaping

Round 1: K4, pm, k1, pm, k6 (7, 8) for Sleeve, pm, k1, pm, k21 (22, 23) for Back, pm, k1, pm, k6 (7, 8) for Sleeve, pm, k1, pm, k17 (18, 19).

Round 2 (increase 8 round): *Knit to marker, yo, slip marker, k1, slip marker, yo; repeat from * 3 more times, knit to end of round — 66 (70, 74) sts.

Round 3: Knit.

Round 4 (increase 4 round): *Knit to marker, yo, slip marker, k1, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, k1, slip marker, yo; repeat from * once more, knit to end of round — 70 (74, 78) sts.

Cut B; continue with C.

With C, continue in pattern.

Round 5: Knit.

Repeat Rounds 2–5 while following A, B, C color sequence and changing colors every 4 rounds until there are 138 (166, 194) total sts on the needle, ending after an increase-4 round.

At this point the Capelet measures 55¼ (66½, 77½)” [140 (168.5, 197) cm] around bottom edge.

You can thread a length of yarn through all the live stitches (like a lifeline) and try on the piece. It should fit over your head and around your shoulders and torso comfortably. If yours is too snug, continue in the established increase pattern until you reach the width that works for you. Once you reach the width that works, continue to Bottom Body.

✨ Designer Tip: Adding more rounds will also mean more yarn used — keep a close eye on your yardage if you decide to size up mid-knit. The ribbed border needs approx 3 more inches of yarn, so leave a reserve.

Bottom Body

Knit evenly around until piece measures 12 (13, 14)” [30.5 (33, 35.5) cm] from cast-on edge.

If you want more length, add it now. Keep in mind that the final ribbed border adds approximately another 3″ [7.5 cm].

Ribbed Border

Round 1: *K1, p1; repeat from * around.

Repeat Round 1 until ribbed border measures 3″ [7.5 cm].

Neck Edging

With RS facing and color C, and using smaller needles, beginning at center Sleeve st, pick up and knit 58 (62, 66) sts around neck edge. Join round and mark first st.

Rounds 1–3: *K1, p1; repeat from * around.

Bind off all sts in rib pattern.

Part 2 — Separate Cowl || Pattern Instructions

Instructions

With D and larger needle, cast on 31 sts, leaving a long tail for seaming later.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2: K5, p21, k5.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 working in the following color sequence:

  • 4 rows (total, including the two just worked) with D
  • 4 rows with A
  • 4 rows with B
  • 4 rows with C

Continue in established pattern and sequence until piece measures 40″ [101.5 cm], or until you have run out of yarn, ending after a Color C segment.

Bind off all sts.

Finishing

Using mattress stitch and the color D yarn tail from the cast-on row, sew the cast-on row to the bind-off row of the Cowl to form a loop.

Weave in all loose ends.

Blocking Your Deschutes Capelet & Cowl

Because Rebel Woolworks Camp is 100% superwash merino, both finished pieces block beautifully — and blocking is what transforms hand-knit fabric from “charming” to “boutique-worthy.” Soak in lukewarm water with a drop of wool wash for 20 minutes, gently squeeze out the water (no wringing), roll in a towel, then pin to finished measurements on blocking squares. The merino will open up and the stripes will look extra crisp.

✨ Designer Tip: Superwash merino can stretch more than non-superwash wool, so pin firmly to the finished measurements. Let it dry completely before wearing — this also helps the ribbed border lie flat and the bottom edge hang straight instead of flaring.

Ready to make the Deschutes set? Grab the clean, ad-free, printable PDF, perfect for taking to your knitting group or stitching from your tablet without interruptions. 💛

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More Free Knit Patterns You'll Love

Loved making the Deschutes set? Here are more free knit patterns waiting for you right here on the blog! 🧶

Chill Out Knit Hat

Violet Knit Duster

Game Day Knitting Cowl

Know Your Worth

Pixel Pop Knit Hat

Shoulder Hug Capelet

Afternoon Delight Knit Cowl and Hat Set

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a capelet in knitting?

So a capelet is basically a short, circular shoulder cape — it drapes over your shoulders and upper body but has no sleeves or armholes. Think of it as the cozy, stylish cousin of a cardigan! The Deschutes Capelet is worked in the round from the top down, fanning out naturally from your neck over your shoulders and torso. It's one of the most wearable pieces you can knit… you can throw it over literally anything.

Do the cowl and capelet attach to each other?

Nope! The cowl is a completely separate piece that you wear independently. It's designed to coordinate with the capelet in yarn colors and striping, so they look stunning together — but you can absolutely wear the cowl on its own or pair it with any other outfit. That's part of what makes this set so versatile.

What does Adventurous Beginner mean for this pattern?

Adventurous Beginner means you have knit and purl solid and you're ready to try something that introduces a new skill or two. This pattern teaches you knitting in the round, raglan shaping, jogless stripes, and flat-row construction — all in one project. The large needles and bulky yarn mean you progress fast and can really see what each stitch is doing, which is a huge confidence-builder.

Can I make the capelet without making the cowl?

Absolutely! The capelet stands beautifully on its own. If you skip the cowl you'll use less of Color D (Fir) — you still need some for the neck edging, but probably only a partial skein rather than the full skein.

Can I substitute a different yarn?

Yes! Look for a CYCA #5 bulky weight superwash merino or superwash wool blend. Superwash is important — it lets you wet-block the finished pieces without felting, and that blocking step is what makes the stripes look crisp and professional. Gauge check: approximately 10 sts per 4 inches on a US size 13 (9mm) needle. Since this pattern uses four colorways, look for a yarn that comes in a range of coordinating colors.

How do I get neat color changes with the stripes?

The key is the jogless stripes technique! When you knit stripes in the round, you naturally get a tiny jog — a stair-step where colors shift — because knitting in the round is a continuous spiral, not stacked rings. The jogless stripes technique hides that jog so your stripes look perfectly clean. Watch my in-post video in the Mastering Jogless Stripes section above before you cast on. 🌈

What size needles do I need?

You'll need two sizes of circular knitting needles: size 13 (9mm) for the capelet body and the cowl, and size 11 (8mm) for the neck edging only. Both are circular needles, 24 inches or longer. Plan to have a longer needle (32 inches or more) available — your stitch count grows quite a bit through the raglan increases and the stitches can get very snug on a shorter needle!

Final Thoughts 💛

I genuinely believe the Deschutes Knit Capelet & Cowl is one of those sets that teaches you a huge amount without ever feeling overwhelming. Raglan shaping is one of those things that “clicks” the first time you do it… and then you want to put it on everything. Fair warning. 😄

The fact that it's a two-piece coordinating set makes it extra special. Whether you make both pieces or just the capelet, you're going to have a wearable, gorgeous piece that looks like it took way more skill than it did. Big impact, manageable learning curve. That's the sweet spot.

If you cast this on, please please please share your progress! Tag me @marlybird on Instagram or Facebook and use #MMMDI (Marly Made Me Do It), #MarlyBird, or #DeschutesCapeSet so I can see it. I love seeing your finished makes so much. 💛

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Free Fair Isle Hat Knitting Pattern with Latvian Braid | Chill Out Winter Hat

By Leave a Comment

Originally published December 21, 2019 · Updated July 2026 with refreshed pattern text, yarn substitutes for discontinued Chic Sheep by Marly Bird, expanded colorwork and Latvian Braid education, chart guides, video tutorial links, and a full FAQ section.

The Chill Out Winter Hat is a free Fair Isle hat knitting pattern by Marly Bird featuring a stunning two-color stranded colorwork body, a traditional Latvian Braid accent above the ribbed brim, and uninterrupted colorwork through the crown decreases. Knit in worsted weight on 16” circulars, it fits most adults and uses just two balls of yarn.

⚡ Quick Answer:

Yes! This free Fair Isle hat knitting pattern is available right here on the blog. It’s written for worsted weight yarn, worked in the round on 16” circulars, and includes a traditional Latvian Braid detail above the brim. You’ll need approximately 186 yards of each color (372 yards total). Scroll down for the full pattern, yarn substitutes for discontinued Chic Sheep, and chart guides.

Marly Bird wearing the Chill Out Winter Hat — free Fair Isle knitting pattern with Latvian Braid detail
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Hey, bestie 💛

Some hats just have a story. This one started on a gray winter day when I needed something beautiful on my needles… something with rhythm and color and just enough challenge to keep my brain engaged.

The Chill Out Winter Hat has been that hat for me. And I have a feeling it’s going to be that hat for you too.

What makes it special? Three things. The Fair Isle colorwork body is bold and graphic without being complicated. The Latvian Braid above the brim is a traditional detail that makes this hat look so much harder than it actually is. And the crown decreases are written to keep your colorwork pattern perfectly intact all the way to the very top… no abrupt solid-color closing rounds, no jarring shift in the fabric. The hat looks intentional and finished from every angle.

I originally designed this hat using Chic Sheep by Marly Bird yarn… my own yarn line that I was so proud of. That yarn is no longer available, but this hat is better than ever. I’ve updated the pattern and put together a full substitute yarn guide so you can knit it with yarns you can actually find today.

Ready? Let’s knit. 🧶

Chill Out Winter Hat free Fair Isle knitting pattern — Pinterest pin image by Marly Bird

Is This Pattern Right for You?

Skill Level & What You’ll Practice

This pattern is rated Intermediate. Here’s what that means in practice:

✅ You should be comfortable with: knitting in the round, using a 16” circular needle, working from basic written instructions, and ribbing.

🌟 You’ll get to practice: stranded (Fair Isle) colorwork, managing floats, the Latvian Braid technique, chart reading in the round, and colorwork crown decreases on double-pointed needles.

This is actually a wonderful first colorwork project. The chart repeat is regular and predictable. You’re only ever working with two colors at once. And the finished hat is something you’ll be genuinely proud to wear or gift.

If you’ve completed a few projects in the round and you’re ready to try colorwork… this is your hat.

Quick Stats

📏 Finished Circumference: 21¾” [55 cm] — fits most adults

🧶 Yarn Weight: Worsted (#4)

📐 Gauge: 18 sts = 4” [10 cm] in Fair Isle pattern

🪡 Yardage: ~186 yards each of Main Color (MC) and Contrasting Color (CC) — 372 yards total

⏱️ Time Estimate: Most knitters complete this hat in 6–10 hours of knitting time depending on colorwork experience.

📄 Ad-Free PDF: Favorite and download a clean PDF on Ravelry →

Love the Pattern? ⭐

The full Chill Out Winter Hat pattern is free right here on the blog! 🎉

If you’d prefer a clean, ad-free PDF to print or save to your device, you can grab it on Ravelry. Favoriting and queueing the pattern there also helps other knitters discover it… and it’s how you’ll find it again easily in your Ravelry library.

Chill Out Winter Hat ad-free PDF pattern mockup — downloadable knitting pattern by Marly Bird
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📚 Want to understand the techniques in this pattern? Keep scrolling — Fair Isle colorwork, Latvian Braid, yarn substitutes, tips, and more are all below.

Why Knitters Love This Fair Isle Winter Hat

Fair Isle knitting has a way of looking magical even when the technique is surprisingly manageable. This hat hits that sweet spot perfectly.

The colorwork motif repeats in a regular, predictable rhythm… which means once you’ve worked the first repeat, the rest of the hat practically knits itself. You’re not juggling complex color changes every row. You’re just following a chart that makes sense.

Then there’s the Latvian Braid. It’s worked in just three rounds above the ribbed brim and creates this gorgeous twisted stripe that frames the colorwork body beautifully. It looks like something you’d see in a museum-quality Baltic folk piece… but it only takes about 20 minutes to work once you know the technique.

And the crown? This is the detail that separates a good colorwork hat from a great one. Most patterns switch to a solid color for the decreases so the knitter doesn’t have to think about maintaining the pattern while reducing stitches. I wrote this crown to keep the colorwork going all the way to the top. It uses a more detailed decrease chart, but the result is a hat that looks cohesive and intentional from brim to tip.

This is the kind of hat people ask you about at the coffee shop. ☕

chill out winter kit hat pattern with fluffy white pom pom and a Latvian Braid detail around the brim

What Is Stranded (Fair Isle) Knitting?

Stranded colorwork (also called Fair Isle knitting) is a technique where you work with two or more colors in the same round… carrying the color you’re not using loosely across the back of the fabric. Those carried strands are called floats.

The result is a fabric that looks woven and intricate from the front, but is really just a regular knit stitch worked with intentional color changes. No magic. Just method.

The Chill Out Winter Hat uses two colors throughout the colorwork body: a Main Color (MC) and a Contrasting Color (CC). Every stitch is either one or the other. You follow the chart to know which color goes where.

How to Read the Chart

The chart for this hat shows each stitch as a colored square. Because the hat is worked entirely in the round (right side always facing), you read every row of the chart from right to left.

Whatever color the square is… that’s the color you knit. It really is “knit by number.”

The chart is divided into 7 repeating sections of 14 stitches each. You’ll place markers between each section so you always know exactly where you are in the pattern.

✨ Designer Tip: Use a different color or style of stitch marker for your beginning-of-round (BOR) marker than for the section markers. When all your markers look the same, it’s easy to get disoriented mid-round. A locking stitch marker in a contrasting color for your BOR marker is a genuine lifesaver.
Knitted fabric with horizontal stripes and geometric patterns in bright colors, made with thick yarn for a soft, textured look.

Managing Your Floats

Floats are the strands of yarn that travel across the back of the fabric while you’re working with the other color. The #1 colorwork mistake? Pulling those floats too tight.

Tight floats = tight fabric = a hat that won’t stretch over your head. Trust me, this is not a fun discovery after 42 rounds of colorwork.

After every few stitches, spread the worked stitches out along your right needle before picking up the carried yarn. This gives the float enough length to breathe. The fabric should lie flat and relaxed when you’re done.

Hands with pink nails knitting a blue and white piece with a red ribbed edge; intricate stitches on wood surface.

Knitting Two-Handed vs. One-Handed Colorwork

There are two main approaches to holding your yarn for colorwork. One-handed means you drop and pick up each color as needed… which is slower but familiar to most knitters. Two-handed means you hold one color in each hand simultaneously… which feels awkward at first but makes colorwork dramatically faster once you find the rhythm.

Want to try two-handed colorwork? I have video tutorials for both the Continental Knit Stitch and Continental Purl Stitch on my YouTube channel. The Fair Isle technique tutorial (linked in the Video Tutorials section) shows how it all comes together for colorwork.

If you want to explore other colorwork approaches first, my Mosaic Knitting for Beginners post is a great bridge. Mosaic knitting uses only one color per round, so it’s a beautiful stepping stone between plain knitting and full Fair Isle.

Latvian Braid knitting technique on the Chill Out Winter Hat — traditional Baltic knit detail by Marly Bird

What Is a Latvian Braid?

A Latvian Braid is a traditional decorative element from Baltic knitting… and it is stunning.

It’s worked in two colors on a purl round, alternating which color comes “over” and “under” as you cross from stitch to stitch. The result is a raised, twisted stripe that looks woven or braided… hence the name. It frames the colorwork body like a little crown.

The braid in this hat is worked in just three rounds: one knit round to establish your alternating color positions, and then two purl rounds where you twist in opposite directions. On Round 2 you twist the yarns in one direction… on Round 3 you untwist them by going the opposite way. When you finish Round 3, the two strands are perfectly untwisted and ready to continue into the colorwork body.

Is it hard? Not at all. It looks intimidating when you read the instructions cold. But once you’re at the needles with both colors in hand, it clicks almost immediately.

Watch before you knit: Latvian Braid full written and video tutorial →

And if you love braided and twisted knitting details, don’t miss my guide to knit braids — different techniques, equally gorgeous visual impact.

✨ Designer Tip: Do not untwist the yarns after Round 2 of the Latvian Braid. Leave them crossed. Round 3 deliberately reverses the direction of the twist, and when you finish that round they’ll be perfectly untwisted on their own. If you try to “fix” the twist after Round 2, you’ll end up double-twisting and the braid won’t look right.

The Original Yarn + What to Use Now

⚠️ Yarn Update: Chic Sheep by Marly Bird Is Discontinued

Red Heart Chic Sheep by Marly Bird is no longer in production and is not available at retail. If you have some in your stash—lucky you! But please don’t search for it at stores; it won’t be there. Use the substitute yarn table below. There are some truly beautiful options that will give you the same (or better!) results with this hat.

White box with neatly arranged gradient yarn skeins, buttons in a jar, candle, and dress form on a white crafting surface.

About Chic Sheep by Marly Bird (the Original Yarn)

Chic Sheep was a yarn I designed specifically with crafters in mind. 100% merino wool, worsted weight, beautiful hand, and colorways that made my heart sing. I was so proud of it.

This hat was originally designed using two colorways: Poolside (Main Color) and Creme de Mint (Contrasting Color). Those names are preserved in the pattern spec for historical reference… but neither colorway is available today.

The good news? There are plenty of excellent worsted-weight yarns available right now that will give you the same stunning results.

What to look for in a substitute:

  • Worsted weight (CYCA #4 — not bulky, not DK, worsted is key for gauge)
  • Good stitch definition — important for colorwork so the pattern pops clearly
  • Non-splitty — you’ll be picking up and crossing yarn frequently
  • About 186 yards per ball (you need 2 balls total)
  • 100% wool or superwash wool for best results — wool grips itself and makes colorwork neater

Yarn Substitutes for the Chill Out Winter Hat

YarnFiberYards/BallNotesBuy
Malabrigo Rios100% Superwash Merino210 ydClosest feel to Chic Sheep — gorgeous hand-dyed colorways, beautiful stitch definition, luxurious handBuy →
KnitPicks Brava Worsted100% Premium Acrylic218 ydBudget-friendly, excellent stitch definition, machine washable — great first colorwork hat yarn. (Note: recommended as closest match in our affiliate database to KnitPicks Swish Worsted.)Buy at KnitPicks →
Cascade 220 Superwash100% Superwash Wool220 ydClassic colorwork choice — one ball covers the yardage for each color, beautiful wide range of colorsBuy →
Berroco Vintage Worsted52% Acrylic / 40% Wool / 8% Nylon218 ydEasy-care blend, great value, machine washable — excellent for gift hatsBuy →
Lion Brand Wool-Ease80% Acrylic / 20% Wool197 ydMachine washable, widely available at craft stores, great budget pick — good structure for colorworkBuy at Michaels →
✨ Designer Tip — Choosing Colors That POP: Choose two colors with strong value contrast — one noticeably lighter, one noticeably darker. Hold them next to each other and squint… or take a photo and convert it to grayscale on your phone. If the colors still read as clearly distinct in black and white, your Fair Isle pattern will be beautiful. If they blend together? Pick a different pairing.

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Materials & Tools

Yarn

Original yarn: Red Heart Chic Sheep by Marly Bird™ (discontinued — see substitute table above)

Weight: Worsted (#4)  |  Yardage needed: ~186 yards MC + ~186 yards CC = 372 yards total

See the full substitute table above for today’s best options. My top picks: Cascade 220 Superwash for the classic colorwork experience, or Malabrigo Rios for a luxury hand-dyed option closest to the original Chic Sheep feel.

Needles

🪡 U.S. 6 [4 mm] 16” circular needle — for the ribbed brim

🪡 U.S. 8 [5 mm] 16” circular needle — for the Latvian Braid and colorwork body (this is your gauge needle)

🪡 U.S. 8 [5 mm] double-pointed needles, set of 5 — for the crown decreases when your stitch count gets too small for the circular

Important gauge note: Swatch with your larger needles in Fair Isle pattern (not just stockinette) before you begin. Colorwork gauge is affected by both your needle size and your float tension. If you’re knitting tightly, try going up a needle size.

Find all needle sizes at KnitPicks →

Notions

Don’t forget to block your finished hat! Eucalan Wool Wash is my favorite — no-rinse and lanolin-enriched, gentle on wool and wool-blend yarns.

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Chill Out Winter Hat free Fair Isle knitting pattern by Marly Bird — two-color worsted weight hat

Chill Out Winter Hat || Pattern Details

Skill Level

⭐⭐⭐ Adventurous Beginner to Intermediate

Measurements

To Fit Sizes: One size fits most adults
Finished Circumference: 21¾” [55 cm]

Gauge

18 sts = 4” [10 cm] in Fair Isle pattern.

Gauge is critical for fit. Swatch in Fair Isle pattern before beginning. If you’re getting fewer stitches per inch, go down a needle size; if you’re getting more, go up.

Materials

Yarn: Red Heart Chic Sheep by Marly Bird™ (Art. R170, 100% Merino Wool, 3½ oz / 100 g, 186 yd / 170 m, CYCA #4 worsted)

1 ball: Poolside (MC)
1 ball: Creme de Mint (CC)

⚠️ Note: Chic Sheep by Marly Bird is discontinued. See the Yarn Substitute Table above for today’s best alternatives. The original colorway names above are preserved for historical reference only.

Needles:

  • U.S. 6 [4 mm] 16” [40.5 cm] circular needle
  • U.S. 8 [5 mm] 16” [40.5 cm] circular needle + set of 5 double-pointed needles, or size required for gauge

Note: Be sure to obtain gauge with the larger needles; smaller needles should be two sizes smaller than the large ones.

Find your needles at KnitPicks →

Abbreviations

  • CC – Contrasting Color
  • K – Knit
  • K2tog – Knit Two Together
  • MC – Main Color
  • P – Purl
  • Slm – Slip Marker
  • Ssk – Slip, Slip, Knit (see Special Stitches)
  • St(s) – Stitch(es)

Special Stitches

⭐ Slip, Slip, Knit (Ssk): Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, as if to knit. Insert left needle into the front of these 2 stitches and knit them together from this position — 1 stitch decreased.

⭐ Flat Slip, Slip, Knit (Flat Ssk): [Alternate ssk method that lies flatter and looks more similar to a reversed k2tog.]
Insert needle in front leg of next st but do not knit it; insert needle in back leg of second st on left needle; yarn over and knit both sts together (1 st decreased).

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I'm thrilled to share this amazing pattern with you, many patterns on my blog are absolutely free! I kindly request that you don't copy and paste or distribute this pattern. Prefer an ad-free experience? Buy a digital PDF pattern for a small fee from one of my online stores for a seamless crafting journey. 

I appreciate your support and readership. You are the reason I can keep doing what I love and sharing it with others. So, thank you from the bottom of my yarn-loving heart! Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links at no cost to you.

Charts

This pattern uses two charts: the Hat Body Fair Isle chart (for the colorwork body rounds) and the Crown Decreasing chart (for the top of the hat).

Hat Body Fair Isle chart

Chill Out Winter Hat Body Fair Isle chart — free knitting pattern by Marly Bird

Crown Decreasing chart

Chill Out Winter Hat Crown Decreasing chart — free Fair Isle knit hat pattern by Marly Bird

Notes

  • Hat is worked from brim to crown in two colors that interact through Fair Isle colorwork and a decorative Latvian braid.
  • For rounds that use two colors, each stitch notation is followed by the color to be used (e.g., “K1 MC” means knit 1 with Main Color).
  • When working in Fair Isle colorwork, keep the yarn floats on the inside of the hat with some give, or the fabric will become too tight and the hat will not fit. Spread the fabric out on the right needle after every few worked stitches.

Video Tutorials

These video tutorials walk you through every technique in this pattern. All links open in a new tab:

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Chill Out Winter Hat || Pattern Instructions

Brim

Using smaller needle, MC and Long Tail Cast-On (see Video Tutorials), cast on 98 sts.

Join round being careful to not twist cast-on edge, and mark first st.

Round 1: Knit.

Round 2: * K1, P1; repeat from * around.

Repeat Round 2 only 5 more times more.
Count: 7 total rounds worked.

Latvian Braid

Round 1: * K1 MC, k1 CC; repeat from * around.

This round forms the base of your braid. It isn’t visible at the bottom of the braid, but it is the horizontal line of stitches you see in between each round of twists you’re about to create. Traditionally, you work the same color for each st on Round 2 as on Round 1, (MC over MC, CC over CC, etc).

Bring both yarns to the front of the work.

Note: Do not take the time here to untwist the yarns on the following round. They will become untwisted on Round 3 when you switch the direction of twist.

Round 2: * P1 MC, bring CC under MC (twisting yarns), p1 CC, bring MC under CC (twisting yarns); repeat from * around.

Round 3: * P1 MC, bring CC over MC (untwisting yarns), p1 CC, bring CC over MC (untwisting yarns); repeat from * around.

If done correctly, once you have completed Round 3, your two yarns will become totally untwisted, ready to work in whatever patterning is called for on subsequent rounds.

Body

Follow Hat Body Fair Isle chart above

Knit 1 round with MC only.

Place 6 more markers on the needle, 14 sts apart each, creating 7 total sections of 14 sts. Be sure to use markers of a different color or design from the beginning-of-round marker.

Work 42 rounds in Fair Isle colorwork (see Video Tutorials) following color chart for Hat Body. Read every row in the chart from right to left, since Hat is made entirely in round with the right side always facing.

Blue and white Chill Out Winter Hat showing Fair Isle colorwork knitting pattern by Marly Bird with bird logo.

Crown

Note: Switch to double pointed needles when the work becomes too tight to fit around circular needles.

Follow Crown decreasing chart above

Round 1: * K1 MC, k1 CC, slm; repeat from * around.

Round 2: * K2tog CC, [k1 MC, k1 CC] 5 times, ssk MC, slm; repeat from * 6 more times.
Count: 84 sts (-14 sts decreased).

Round 3: * K1 MC, k1 CC, slm; repeat from * around.

Round 4: * K2tog MC, [k1 CC, k1 MC] 4 times, ssk CC, slm; repeat from * 6 more times.
Count: 70 sts (-14 sts decreased).

Round 5: * K1 CC, k1 MC, slm; repeat from * around.

Round 6: * K2tog CC, [k1 MC, k1 CC] 3 times, ssk MC, slm; repeat from * 6 more times.
Count: 56 sts (-14 sts decreased).

Round 7: * K1 MC, k1 CC, slm; repeat from * around.

Round 8: * K2tog MC, [k1 CC, k1 MC] 2 times, ssk CC, slm; repeat from * 6 more times.
Count: 42 sts (-14 sts decreased).

Round 9: * K1 CC, k1 MC, slm; repeat from * around.

Round 10: * K2tog CC, k1 MC, k1 CC, ssk MC, slm; repeat from * 6 more times.
Count: 28 sts (-14 sts decreased).

Round 11: * K1 MC, k1 CC, slm; repeat from * around.

Round 12: * K2tog MC, ssk CC, slm; repeat from * 6 more times.
Count: 14 sts (-14 sts decreased).

Round 13: * K1 CC, k1 MC, slm; repeat from * around.

Remove all markers.

Cut both CC and MC, leaving a 10” [25.5 cm] tail. Use yarn needle to thread one of the tails through each remaining st knitwise. Pull tail tight to close top. Weave tail in on wrong side of Hat to secure.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends.

Attach leather tag with leather rivets (optional).

Sew on faux fur pom-pom, or create a pom-pom with pom-pom maker and sew to top (optional).

✨ Designer Tip — Blocking Your Colorwork Hat: Blocking is the difference between “handmade” and “professionally finished.” Before blocking, colorwork floats can make the fabric look slightly uneven. After a gentle soak in Eucalan Wool Wash and a light block over a hat form or balloon, the stitches even out and the colorwork truly pops. Don’t skip this step!
Finished Chill Out Winter Hat showing Fair Isle colorwork crown — free knitting pattern by Marly Bird

Tips for Knitting This Colorwork Hat Successfully

Choose Colors with Strong Contrast

The Fair Isle pattern only reads visually if your two colors are distinct from each other. Value contrast (light vs. dark) matters more than hue contrast (blue vs. orange). You can actually use two shades of the same color family as long as one reads light and one reads dark.

Quick test: take a photo of your two yarn balls and switch it to grayscale on your phone. If the colors are still clearly distinct… you’ve got a winner. If they blend together, swap one out.

Six skeins of yarn in pink, purple, and white are arranged above the text "Choose Colors for Colorwork" in bright pink letters.

Keep Your Floats Loose

This is the single most important colorwork tip I give every knitter new to Fair Isle. After every 3–4 stitches, spread the worked stitches out along your right needle before carrying the unused yarn across the back.

The float needs to span those stitches without pulling. If your finished hat won’t stretch enough to fit over your head… tight floats are almost certainly the cause.

✨ Designer Tip: If you tend to knit tightly, try going up one needle size for the colorwork body. Use the U.S. 6 for the brim as written, then switch to a U.S. 9 (instead of the U.S. 8) when you start the colorwork. Swatch first to confirm gauge!

Use Stitch Markers

This hat has 7 repeating sections of 14 stitches each. Placing a stitch marker between each repeat is genuinely life-changing for your colorwork sanity.

If you lose your place in the chart, you count back to the nearest marker and pick up exactly where you are… instead of tinking (unknitting) back to the beginning of the round. Markers are your built-in safety net.

Add a Lifeline (Especially for First-Time Colorwork Knitters)

A lifeline is a strand of smooth, contrasting thread or yarn threaded through a complete round of live stitches. If you need to rip back, you rip only to the lifeline… and all your stitches are safely caught, in order, ready to go back on the needle.

For this hat, I recommend placing a lifeline at the end of the brim (before the Latvian Braid) and at the end of the colorwork body (before the crown decreases). Those are the two points where mistakes most often surface.

Watch: How to Add a Lifeline — 3 ways →

Want to Go Deeper on Colorwork?

🌈 CampColorwork — Learn Everything About Colorwork Knitting

My best friend Robyn Chachula and I built CampColorwork.com as a dedicated colorwork education resource. If you love this hat and want to go deeper into stranded knitting, mosaic knitting, intarsia, and more… CampColorwork is your next destination. Built by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula for knitters who are serious about their craft. 🎨

If you want to explore a related colorwork technique before going full Fair Isle, my Mosaic Knitting for Beginners post is a perfect starting point. Mosaic knitting uses only one color per round, making it easier to manage while still producing stunning colorwork results.

Multiple devices display crochet projects, with sample patterns and textured swatches visible on screens.
Camp Colorwork crochet and knitting course by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula

More Free Fair Isle Patterns to Knit Next

Loved this hat? Here are more colorwork knitting patterns to add to your queue:

🧢 Kaleidoscope Harmony Knit Hat — A vibrant multi-color knit hat with a stunning circular colorwork crown. One of my all-time favorites from the hat collection.

🧢 Harmony Hues Knit Hat — A gorgeous stash-busting colorwork hat that uses scraps and small amounts of yarn to create a beautiful gradient effect. Perfect for your colorwork leftovers!

🧶 Free Knit Fair Isle Accessory Patterns — My full roundup of free Fair Isle accessory patterns: hats, mittens, and more. Bookmark this one for a rainy day queue-building session!

Woman models a knit hat with bold teal, orange, yellow, white, and purple patterns; textured crochet stitches are visible.
Kaleidoscope Harmony Knit Hat
Person models a bright knit hat with blue pom-pom, showing textured stitching; yarn and crochet decor seen behind.
Harmony Hues
Two Fair Isle knit beanies: one pink with a pom-pom, the other green. Both show detailed colorwork and soft texture. Logo below.
Favorite This Pattern on Ravelry - Marly Bird
Frequently asked questions about the Chill Out Winter Hat free Fair Isle knitting pattern

Frequently Asked Questions About This Fair Isle Hat

Is this pattern suitable for beginners?

This pattern is rated Intermediate, and it’s best suited for knitters who have completed at least a few projects in the round and are ready to try colorwork. If you’ve never done stranded knitting before… this is actually a wonderful first project. The chart repeat is regular and predictable, you’re only ever working with two colors at once, and the finished hat is something you’ll be genuinely proud to wear or gift.

Can I knit this hat on magic loop instead of 16” circular needles?

Yes! If you prefer magic loop over short circulars, any length circular needle with a long cable works perfectly. Just be sure to switch to DPNs (or continue on magic loop) when the crown decreases make the stitch count too small for your needle length. Magic loop works beautifully for colorwork hats.

How many yards of yarn do I need?

You’ll need approximately 186 yards of each color, for a total of about 372 yards across both colors. Plan for a little extra if you tend to knit tightly or want to use your yarn for a pom-pom on top.

Can I use a different weight yarn?

The pattern is written for worsted weight with a gauge of 18 sts = 4” in Fair Isle pattern. You could substitute a heavy DK or light aran and adjust your needle size, but you’d need to swatch carefully because the finished measurements will change. A significantly different weight also changes your total yardage requirement.

What can I use instead of Chic Sheep yarn?

See the full substitute yarn table above! My top recommendations are Cascade 220 Superwash for a classic colorwork experience, or Malabrigo Rios for a luxury hand-dyed feel closest to the original Chic Sheep. Any worsted-weight 100% wool or superwash wool with good stitch definition will work beautifully.

Can I adjust the pattern for a larger head size?

Yes! The stitch multiple is 14 stitches with 7 repeats across the hat. To size up, add one full repeat and cast on 112 stitches instead of 98. This adds approximately 3” to the finished circumference. You’ll need some additional yarn for the extra stitches, so plan for more than the base yardage requirement.

Do I need to read a chart to knit this hat?

The colorwork body uses a chart… but chart reading is much easier than it looks! Each stitch is represented by a colored square. Whatever color the square is, that’s the color you knit. Read each row from right to left, since you’re always working on the right side in the round. The crown section also includes written-out color instructions. New to charts? The How to Use Stitch Fiddle tutorial will help you get comfortable fast.

What is a Latvian braid and is it hard to do?

A Latvian braid is a traditional decorative element from Baltic knitting traditions. It’s worked in two colors on purl rounds and creates a gorgeous raised, twisted stripe above the ribbed brim. The braid takes just three rounds to complete, and while the instructions look complex at first… it clicks very quickly once you’re at the needles with both colors in hand. I have a full dedicated tutorial with video at marlybird.com/blog/latvian-braid/.

Final Thoughts

The Chill Out Winter Hat has been in my knitting world for years now… and it still makes me happy every time I see someone knitting it, wearing it, or sharing their finished version online. There’s something about a Fair Isle hat with a Latvian Braid that just feels like a genuine craft achievement.

I hope this updated post makes it easier than ever to find great yarn, learn the techniques, and get your needles moving. Whether this is your very first colorwork project or your hundredth… I’m rooting for you from start to final pom-pom.

When you’re done, come find me! Tag me @marlybird on Instagram or Facebook and use #MMMDI (Marly Made Me Do It), #MarlyBird, or #ChillOutWinterHat so I can see those beautiful color combinations. 💛 You can also join the project gallery on Ravelry — they never stop inspiring me.

Happy knitting! 🧶❤️

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

A cartoon avatar of a person with glasses and a brown bun smiles warmly. Their green shirt and black jacket add a stylish touch, while colorful hearts surround them like loving temperature blankets, stitching together an aura of love and positivity. -Marly Bird