Free Crochet Floral Motif Tee Pattern ā Sizes Small Through 5X
This pattern is featured as Day 15 of Spring Fling 2026 (Fri May 22) ā closing out Week 3 of the event! For 24 hours only, the ad-free PDF of the Floral Motif Summer Crochet Tee is 65% off…discount AUTO-APPLIES at checkout, no code needed.
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Share your finished Floral Motif Tee with the hashtags #SpringFling2026 + #FloralMotifTee šø
The Floral Motif Tee is a free crochet pattern for a lightweight, lacy summer sweater built from join-as-you-go floral motifs…and the brand-new updated version is now sized from Small all the way through 4X/5X. It’s an intermediate crochet pattern designed by Marly Bird, worked at a 1 motif = 3.5″ gauge in CYCA #1 super fine yarn, with a finished bust circumference from 40″ to 64″. Free pattern on the blog. Ad-free PDF available.

Looking for a free crochet floral motif tee pattern that actually fits you… no matter what size you wear? The Floral Motif Summer Tee is one of my most-loved warm-weather designs, and I just gave it a serious update. The biggest news: this pattern now goes all the way up to size 4X/5X. That used to stop at 2X/3X…and I heard from so many of you that you wanted the bigger sizes. So here we are. New release, bigger size range, same lacy floral motif tee you’ve been asking for.
Hey, bestie š If you’ve ever wanted to crochet a sweater that feels like wearing a summer garden… this is the one. Lightweight, breathable, lacy in all the right places, and now finally available in the sizes that the free pattern world tends to forget about.
ā” Quick Answer: The Floral Motif Tee is a free crochet pattern by Marly Bird for a lacy summer sweater made from joined floral motifs, now sized S/M, L/XL, 2X/3X, and 4X/5X (finished bust 40″, 48″, 56″, 64″). Intermediate skill level. Uses CYCA #1 super fine yarn and a G/6 (4 mm) hook. Free pattern below.
Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. To learn more please visit my privacy policy here š

What You Will Love About This Free Crochet Floral Motif Tee Pattern š
šø Truly size-inclusive. The updated pattern is now written in four sizes that fit bust circumferences from 40″ all the way to 64″. For a free crochet sweater pattern, that’s rare. Most free crochet garment patterns stop at 2X or sometimes 3X… this one keeps going.
šø Lightweight and breezy for hot weather. The openwork floral motifs and lace panels mean this top breathes beautifully on a humid day. It’s the kind of summer crochet sweater you can actually wear in July.
šø Satisfying join-as-you-go construction. You build the motif strips first, then crochet the lace panels directly onto them. It feels like assembling a beautiful garment puzzle… and you can see your sweater coming together every single round.
šø Works in any solid color. The lacy floral stitch pattern really shines in a solid color. Choose a soft pastel for a romantic vibe, a bold jewel tone for a statement piece, or a crisp white for a wardrobe staple.
šø Reversible lace pattern. The wrong side and right side look the same. No “uh oh, I flipped it” moments.
Quick Pattern Overview
š Skill level: Intermediate. You’ll need to be comfortable working in the round, reading written motif instructions, and joining motifs as you go. If you’ve made a granny square blanket, you can absolutely tackle this tee.
š Sizes: S/M, L/XL, 2X/3X, 4X/5X. Finished bust circumference: 40″, 48″, 56″, 64″. Designed with 2-6″ of positive ease (or wear it with negative ease like Marly does…more on that below).
š§¶ Yarn: CYCA #1 super fine weight, originally sampled in Miss Babs Kilimanjaro (now discontinued…yarn substitution notes below). 1 to 3 hanks depending on size.
šŖ Hook: Size G/6 (4.0 mm)…or whichever hook you need to hit gauge.
š Gauge: 1 motif = 3.5″ Ć 3.5″ blocked. 4 stitch repeats Ć 10 rows = 5″ Ć 5″ in lace pattern, blocked.
šŖ” Construction: Two strips of joined floral motifs form the front and back yokes, then lace panels are crocheted directly onto each motif strip. Shoulders, sleeves, and side seams are sewn after blocking.
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Is This Crochet Floral Motif Tee Pattern Right for You?
This pattern is perfect for you if…
ā You’re an intermediate crocheter who can comfortably read written pattern instructions, work in the round, and increase/decrease confidently. You don’t need to be an advanced lace crocheter, but this isn’t a “first sweater” project either.
ā You want a summer crochet sweater pattern that’s actually wearable in warm weather. Lots of crochet sweaters end up feeling heavy in summer…the lacy motif construction here keeps the fabric airy.
ā You love the satisfaction of joining motifs as you go, watching the garment grow piece by piece rather than working one giant fabric.
ā You’re size 4X or 5X and you’re tired of free crochet patterns stopping at 2X. Same.
This might NOT be the right pattern for you if…
ā You’re brand new to crochet. Save this one for a few projects down the road. (Try one of these free spring sweater patterns if you want a simpler crochet garment to start with.)
ā You want a chunky, cold-weather sweater. This is a CYCA #1 super fine pattern…beautiful, but not warm.
ā You don’t want to block your finished piece. (I’m not even kidding… blocking is non-negotiable for this one. The lace pattern stays scrunched without it.)

This Tee Fits Every Body: Sizes S Through 5X šø
Here’s the part I’m most excited about. The original Floral Motif Tee was sized S/M through 2X/3X. The updated pattern adds a 4X/5X size, taking the finished bust circumference all the way up to 64″. For a free crochet sweater pattern, that’s a genuinely uncommon size range…and it’s there because so many of you asked for it.
The Full Size Chart
| Size | To Fit Bust | Finished Bust | Finished Length | Motifs per Strip | Yarn (hanks) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| S/M | 32-38″ | 40″ / 101.5 cm | 21″ / 53.5 cm | 12 | 1 |
| L/XL | 40-46″ | 48″ / 122 cm | 24.5″ / 62 cm | 14 | 2 |
| 2X/3X | 48-54″ | 56″ / 142 cm | 28″ / 71 cm | 16 | 2 |
| 4X/5X | 56-62″ | 64″ / 162.5 cm | 31.5″ / 80 cm | 18 | 3 |
How to Pick Your Size: Positive vs. Negative Ease
Ease is just a fancy word for “how much room your sweater has around your body.” There are two ways to wear this tee, and the size you pick depends on the look you want:
š Positive ease means the sweater is LARGER than your bust measurement. This gives you a relaxed, drapey, flowy summer-top feel. The pattern was designed with 2-6″ of positive ease in mind, which is what you’ll see on most crochet tees. To wear with positive ease, choose the size whose finished bust is 2-6″ larger than your actual bust.
š Negative ease means your bust is LARGER than the sweater. This gives you a closer, more fitted look. Marly wore the S/M size in the sample photos with about 4″ of negative ease…so the sweater hugs the body and shows off the silhouette. To wear with negative ease, choose the size whose finished bust is a few inches SMALLER than your actual bust.
Neither is wrong. They’re just different looks. Decide how you want to wear the tee BEFORE you crochet your motifs, then pick your size accordingly.
Picking Your Size if You’re 4X or 5X
The 4X/5X size finishes at a 64″ bust circumference. If your actual bust measures:
š 56-58″: The 4X/5X size will give you a relaxed, 6-8″ positive ease summer-tee fit. Comfortable and breezy.
š 60-62″: The 4X/5X size will fit with 2-4″ of positive ease…the original design intention. This is the sweet spot.
š 64-66″: You’ll get a closer, near-zero-ease fit. Still totally wearable, especially if you like a more fitted summer top.
š Larger than 66″? Drop me a message…I can talk you through adding extra motifs to size up further. The motif construction makes this easier than it sounds.
š” Designer Tip: Always crochet at least one motif as a test BEFORE you commit to all the motif strips. Block that one motif, measure it, and confirm it hits the 3.5″ gauge. If your motif is 3″ or 4″, that’s not a “close enough” ā it’s the difference between a sweater that fits and a sweater that doesn’t. Adjust hook size up or down to hit gauge before you crochet 24-36 of them.
How a Crochet Motif Tee Is Constructed
If you’ve never made a motif-based crochet sweater, here’s how this one comes together. It’s different from a top-down raglan or a bottom-up seamed sweater… and honestly, I think it’s more fun.
You start by crocheting two motif strips. Each strip is a long line of joined floral motifs…the number of motifs in each strip depends on your size (12 for S/M, 14 for L/XL, 16 for 2X/3X, 18 for 4X/5X). These strips will eventually sit on either side of the neck, running from the front to the back over the shoulders.
Each motif is joined to the previous one using the join-as-you-go method on the final round. You don’t make 24 (or 36!) separate motifs and then sew them together. Instead, as you crochet the last round of each new motif, you slip stitch into the corresponding corners and edges of the previous motif. By the time the round is finished, the motifs are already attached. No sewing. No weaving. Just satisfying assembly as you go.
Once each strip is complete, you crochet the lace panels directly onto the long edges of the motif strips. This is where the body of the tee takes shape. The lace pattern is a simple 3-row repeat that becomes meditative once you get into the rhythm.
Then come the sleeves, the front-and-back joining seam, and finally blocking and finishing. The result is a lightweight summer tee where every floral motif is locked into a structural strip, the lace fabric drapes beautifully, and the whole thing breathes.
If you’ve been curious about working with crochet floral motifs, this is a beautiful way to put them into a wearable project rather than just a blanket or scarf. And if you’ve already enjoyed making a join-as-you-go blanket, the technique here will feel familiar…you’re applying the same construction principle to a garment.
Tips for Crocheting the Floral Motif Tee
šø Block. Your. Motifs. I cannot say this enough. The unblocked motif looks like a scrunched little blob. The blocked motif opens up into a clean 3.5″ floral square. The whole pattern depends on those blocked dimensions. Don’t skip it. (More on blocking below…and there’s a full guide on blocking your crochet if you’ve never done it before.)
šø Swatch your motif first. Make one motif, block it, measure it. If it’s not 3.5″, adjust your hook size before you start a strip of 18.
šø Use stitch markers liberally. Mark the right side and wrong side of your first motif so the front and back panels align correctly during assembly. >> Learn how to make crochet stitch markers <<
šø Pick a solid yarn color. Variegated yarns hide the gorgeous lace stitch pattern. If you want the floral motifs to be the star, choose a single solid color. Pastels are romantic, jewel tones make a statement, and a crisp white reads as a wardrobe classic.
šø Drape matters more than fiber. When you’re substituting yarn, prioritize a fiber with good drape…wool/nylon blends, silk blends, or a high-twist cotton work beautifully. Pure mercerized cotton can feel stiff in this lace pattern. (See yarn substitution notes below.)
šø Read the pattern through once before you start. Especially the section about the right and left halves being mirror images. It’s easier to grasp the construction logic before you have a hook in your hand than mid-row when you’re confused.
If you love working with crochet lace techniques, you’ll enjoy this lace stitch pattern…it’s reversible, it’s rhythmic, and once you get into it, you’ll be looking for excuses to crochet “just one more row.”
Color Inspiration: Pick a Shade That Shows Off the Lace šØ
The lacy floral motifs in this tee REALLY shine in a solid color. Variegated and self-striping yarns are gorgeous in plenty of other projects, but they tend to hide the floral stitch detail here. Stick with a solid (or a tonal semi-solid that reads as a single color) and let the motifs be the star.
Here are some color directions to think about as you pick your shade:
šø Soft pastels. Powder pink, sage green, dusty lavender, butter yellow, robin’s-egg blue. Pastels feel romantic and garden-party. They photograph beautifully and pair effortlessly with white denim or linen.
šø Crisp white or natural cream. The classic. A white floral motif tee reads as timeless and lets the lace texture do all the talking. Cream is more forgiving than bright white and shows less from across the room, so it’s friendlier if you’re worried about lace looking “see through.”
šø Bold jewel tones. Deep teal, rich aubergine (the original sample color!), garnet red, emerald. Jewel tones make the floral motifs feel a little more dramatic and a little less “shabby chic.” Marly’s original sample was knit in Miss Babs Kilimanjaro in Aubergine, and that deep purple really does show off every stitch.
šø Earthy neutrals. Camel, terracotta, mushroom, soft taupe. These work beautifully if you want a wardrobe-staple tee that goes with everything in your closet.
šø Statement brights. Coral, bright turquoise, sunshine yellow. Make a summer statement. Just keep it a solid bright, not a variegated bright.
















š” Designer Tip: Before you commit to a full sweater’s worth of yarn in any color, crochet one motif and block it. Look at the blocked motif in natural daylight AND under indoor lighting. Some colors that look gorgeous under shop lighting can read very differently in the sun (or in your bathroom mirror). A single test motif costs you about 20 minutes…and could save you from 40 hours of regret.
Yarn & Materials
Yarn Used in the Sample
The original sample was crocheted in Miss Babs Kilimanjaro in the colorway Aubergine…an 85% Superwash Bluefaced Leicester Wool / 15% Nylon blend in CYCA #1 super fine weight (1,750 yards per 400 g hank). It’s a gorgeous yarn with beautiful drape… but unfortunately Miss Babs has discontinued this base. The good news? There are excellent substitutes (see the full Alternative Yarn section below).
What to Look For in a Substitute
If you’re swapping yarns, here’s what matters for THIS pattern specifically:
š Weight: CYCA #1 super fine (sock or fingering weight). Anything heavier and the lace loses its airiness; anything lighter and the structure suffers.
šŖ” Drape: This is the single most important factor. Wool/nylon blends, silk blends, and high-twist cottons drape beautifully. Pure mercerized cotton tends to feel stiff in this lace pattern.
š§¶ Yardage: Plan for at least 1,200 yards per 4-oz / 100 g put-up. Smaller sizes need around 1,750 yards total; the 4X/5X size needs closer to 5,250 yards if you use a yarn with a typical fingering put-up.
⨠Stitch definition: The lace and motifs depend on crisp stitch definition. Yarns with too much halo (mohair, brushed alpaca, fluffy single-plys) will blur the floral details.
Hook
šŖ Size G/6 (4.0 mm) crochet hook…or whichever size you need to achieve the 3.5″ blocked motif gauge. I like a smooth, ergonomic hook for fine-weight yarn since you’ll be working a lot of stitches.
Notions & Blocking Supplies
- Stitch Markers
- Tapestry Needle
- Scissors
- Tape Measure
- Notions Bag for Supplies (Optional)
- Blocking Squares
- Blocking Pins
- Soaking Basin
- Eucalan Wool Wash
- Blocking Wires (ideal for lace work)
- Ball Winder and Swift

Alternative Yarn for the Free Crochet Floral Motif Tee
Since Miss Babs Kilimanjaro is discontinued, you’ll need a substitute. The good news? This pattern is forgiving as long as you stay in the CYCA #1 super fine range and prioritize drape. Here are my favorite alternatives, organized by what you’re going for.
The Closest Match: Premium Wool & Wool-Blend Sock and Fingering Yarns
If you loved the look and feel of the original Miss Babs Kilimanjaro, look for a wool or wool-blend sock or fingering yarn (typically 75% wool / 25% nylon, or 85/15 like the original). These yarns give you the same beautiful drape, springy stitch definition, and rich color saturation. Hand-dyed yarn is a splurge, but you’re going to be living with this sweater for years.
| Yarn | Fiber | Weight | Why It Works |
|---|---|---|---|
| Knit Picks Stroll | 75% Superwash Merino / 25% Nylon | CYCA #1 Fingering | The single closest match for the Miss Babs base. Beautiful stitch definition, a huge color range, and the nylon gives you sweater durability. |
| Cascade Heritage | 75% Superwash Merino / 25% Nylon | CYCA #1 Fingering | Workhorse sock yarn that crochets up beautifully in lace. Affordable for the quality and comes in tons of colors. |
| Cascade 220 Superwash Fingering | 100% Superwash Merino | CYCA #1 Fingering | If you want pure merino softness and don’t need the nylon’s added durability. Lovely drape for warm-weather garments. |
| Malabrigo Sock | 100% Superwash Merino (hand-dyed) | CYCA #1 Fingering | Famously soft, deeply saturated, and richly tonal. Choose a solid or near-solid colorway to keep the motif detail readable. |
| Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light | 100% Superwash Merino (hand-dyed) | CYCA #2 Light Fingering | A touch lighter than the original but still works beautifully. Madelinetosh’s tonal colorways glow in this lace pattern. |
| Dream in Color Smooshy with Yak | Merino / Yak / Nylon | CYCA #1 Fingering | The yak adds a gentle warmth and softness, and the hand-dyed colors are stunning. A real treat-yourself yarn. |
For Extra Drape and Sheen: Silk-Blend & Luxury Fingering
A silk-blend fingering yarn gives your Floral Motif Tee an extra-luxe drape and a subtle sheen that makes the lace look almost like jewelry. Silk softens the wool’s springiness slightly, so the fabric falls a little more rather than holding its shape…gorgeous for a flowing summer top.
| Yarn | Fiber | Weight | Why It Works |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cascade Heritage Silk | 85% Merino / 15% Mulberry Silk | CYCA #1 Fingering | The silk adds quiet sheen and extra drape without sacrificing structure. One of my favorite “upgrade” yarns for a lace garment. |
| Knit Picks Gloss Fingering | 70% Merino / 30% Silk | CYCA #1 Fingering | More silk than Cascade Heritage Silk, so you get a noticeable shimmer in the finished fabric. Drapes like a dream. |
| Knit Picks Twill Fingering | Merino / Silk blend | CYCA #1 Fingering | A subtle tweed-textured silk blend. The little tweedy flecks add personality without competing with the floral motifs. |
| Knit Picks Capretta Superwash | 60% Merino / 30% Baby Alpaca / 10% Nylon | CYCA #1 Fingering | Not silk, but it has that same buttery drape thanks to the baby alpaca. Lovely if silk allergies are a concern for you. |
For a Pure Summer Fiber: Cotton & Cotton-Blend Fingering
If you live somewhere truly hot and want a plant-based summer tee, look for a cotton or cotton-blend yarn with a little linen, nylon, or acrylic added for drape. Pure mercerized cotton can feel stiff in a lace pattern, so a blend usually drapes better. Linen blends soften beautifully with each wash and develop gorgeous drape over time.
| Yarn | Fiber | Weight | Why It Works |
|---|---|---|---|
| Knit Picks CotLin | 70% Tanguis Cotton / 30% Linen | CYCA #2-3 (Sport/DK) | The cotton-linen blend has that ideal mix of softness and drape. A touch heavier than the original, so expect a slightly larger finished garment…swatch first! |
| Scheepjes Whirlette | 60% Cotton / 40% Acrylic | CYCA #1 Fingering | Lightweight, breathable, and ready-to-use balls (no winding hanks). The acrylic in the blend gives it a little extra drape. |
| Willow Yarns Freesia Cotton | 100% Mercerized Cotton | CYCA #1 Fingering | If you really want pure cotton, this is one of the better mercerized cottons for drape thanks to its tight twist. Block hard for the best results. |
| Premier Afternoon Cotton | Cotton blend | CYCA #2 Sport | A budget-friendly cotton option in a slightly heavier weight. Swatch first if you go with this one…the larger gauge will affect your finished measurements. |
Budget-Friendly: Mainstream Yarn from Michaels
If hand-dyed and specialty yarn isn’t where you want to spend right now, here are some affordable options you can pick up at Michaels. A few of these are heavier than CYCA #1, which means your finished tee will come out larger than the pattern measurements…so swatch a motif first to see what gauge you’re actually getting. Sometimes that larger gauge produces a really lovely, drapier finished tee. Just decide on purpose, not by accident.
| Yarn | Fiber | Weight | Why It Works |
|---|---|---|---|
| Loops & Threads Silky Soft | Silky polyester blend | CYCA #3 Light/DK | Beautiful drape and a soft sheen, available in solid colors at Michaels. Heavier than the original, so expect a larger finished tee. Could be lovely for a more flowing summer fit. |
| Lion Brand Mandala String | Cotton/poly string yarn | CYCA #0-1 Lace/Fingering | A lacy, lightweight cotton-blend string that crochets up beautifully in motif-and-lace patterns. Available in solid “Harmony” tone-on-tone colorways. |
| Caron Skinny Cakes | Acrylic blend | CYCA #1 Fingering | This one IS a self-striping cake, so the floral motif detail will be partially hidden by the color changes. But if you love the watercolor look, it can be stunning. Read the colorway labels and pick one with subtle, low-contrast shifts. |
| Loops & Threads Luxe Merino Solid | 100% Merino Wool | CYCA #4 Worsted | Significantly heavier than the original. The lace will be bolder, the fabric warmer, the finished tee larger. Treat it as a totally different garment with totally different math…but real merino at this price is hard to beat. |
What to Avoid
ā Variegated and self-striping yarns. They hide the floral motif detail. Beautiful in plenty of other projects…not in this one.
ā Mohair, brushed alpaca, or any “halo” yarn. The fuzzy halo blurs the lace and makes the floral motifs look indistinct.
ā Anything bulkier than worsted weight. The pattern math is written for CYCA #1 super fine. The bigger you go, the more your finished measurements will balloon (and the warmer the finished tee).
ā Lace weight or laceweight cobweb yarns. Too light to give the motifs structure. You want at least fingering for the motif edges to hold their shape.
š” Designer Tip: Whatever yarn you choose, ALWAYS make a single motif and block it before you commit to the full sweater. The blocked motif tells you everything: gauge, drape, color saturation in real lighting, and how the lace pattern reads. Twenty minutes of swatching saves you hours of frogging.
Love This Pattern? More Free Crochet Summer Patterns
If lacy summer crochet is your thing, you’ll love these:
š· Wildflowers Crochet Floral Motifs…a deep dive into different floral motif designs you can use as building blocks for blankets, scarves, or even your own garments.
š· 12 Free Spring Sweater Patterns…a curated roundup of my favorite spring/summer sweater patterns in both knit and crochet, including some great size-inclusive options.
š· Join-As-You-Go Blanket Patterns…if you want to practice the join-as-you-go method on a smaller, no-fitting-required project before committing to a sweater, blankets are the perfect playground.
š· Crochet or Knit Lace…a comparison of crochet vs. knit lace techniques, perfect if you’re trying to decide which to learn first or which approach suits your project.
Free Crochet Floral Motif Tee ā Pattern Details
Skill Level
Intermediate
Measurements
To Fit Size: S/M (L/XL, 2X/3X, 4X/5X)
Finished Measurements: Tee is 40 (48, 56, 64)” [101.5, 122, 142, 162.5 cm] bust circumference by 21 (24.5, 28, 31.5)” [53.5, 62, 71, 80 cm] from shoulder to bottom edge. Designed with 2-6″ of positive ease. Modeled by Marly with 4″ negative ease. See notes for more details.
Gauge
1 Motif = 3.5″ by 3.5″ [9 by 9 cm] blocked; use any size hook to obtain the gauge.
4 stitch repeats (24 sts) by 10 rows = 5″ by 5″ [12.5 by 12.5 cm] blocked.
Materials
Yarn: Miss Babs, Kilimanjaro (85% Superwash Bluefaced Leicester Wool / 15% Nylon, 1,750 yds / 1,600 m, 14 oz / 400 g, CYCA #1 Super Fine): 1 (2, 2, 3) hanks. Note: This yarn has been discontinued. See yarn substitution notes above.
Hook: Size G/6 (4.0 mm)
Notions: Stitch Markers
Notions Bag for Supplies (Optional)
Blocking Wires (ideal for lace work)
Ball Winder and Swift (great for yarn that comes in hanks)
Abbreviations
- Ch ā Chain(s)
- Dc ā Double Crochet
- Dc2tog ā Double Crochet Two Together
- PM ā Place Marker
- RS ā Right Side
- Sc ā Single Crochet
- Sl st ā Slip Stitch
- Sp(s) ā Space(s)
- St(s) ā Stitch(es)
- Tch ā Turning Chain
- WS ā Wrong Side
Special Stitches
ā 2 Double Crochet Cluster (2dc-cl): *Yarn over hook, insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook; repeat from * once more in same st, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
ā 3 Double Crochet Cluster (3dc-cl): *Yarn over hook, insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook; repeat from * twice more in same st, yarn over and draw through all 4 loops on hook.
ā Double Crochet 2 Together (Dc2tog): *Yarn over hook, insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook; repeat from * in next indicated st, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. (1 st decreased)
Crochet Stitch Diagrams
⨠Following along with the free pattern on MarlyBird.com? You’ll have everything you need to make this Floral Motif Tee… but if you want the exclusive stitch diagram charts, those are only available in the ad-free PDF version.
You’ll enjoy a clean, printable, ad-free experience while supporting Marly Bird’s free tutorials and patterns š
Schematic

Notes
- Directions are for size S/M; changes for sizes L/XL, 2X/3X, 4X/5X are in parentheses. When only one number is given then that number applies to all sizes.
- This summer tee can be worn with positive ease (the sweater is larger than your bust size) or worn with negative ease (your bust is larger than the sweater). Pick the size to crochet based on how you would like to wear the top. Marly is wearing the S/M size in the photos with negative ease.
- The lace pattern is reversible, and the WS and RS are the same.
- Summer Tee is made in pieces. First you make 2 strips of joined motifs. These will be on either side of the neck. Then the right front is crocheted directly onto one half of the motif strips. The right back is crocheted in the same manner except that the RS and WS are reversed. The directions are then repeated for the Left Half. The two are seamed by double crochets in the front and back. The shoulders, under arms, and side seams are sewn together after blocking.
- Do not skip blocking. The lace pattern and motifs really open up when blocked and make the drape of the sweater so much nicer.
Video Tutorials

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Free Crochet Floral Motif Tee ā Pattern Instructions
Lace Pattern for Gauge
Note: Lace pattern begins with a foundation chain for gauge swatching purposes only. In the actual garment, the lace is worked directly onto the Motif Strips rather than starting as a separate piece.
Chain a multiple of 6 + 2 extra for foundation, see stitch diagram for help.
Row 1 (WS): Skip 1 ch, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn.
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc in first st and 1 ch-sp), skip first sc, skip next 2 sc, 3 dc in next sc (dc group made), ch 1, skip next 2 sc, dc in next sc, *ch 1, skip next 2 sc, 3 dc in next sc, ch 1, skip next 2 sc, dc in next sc; repeat from * to end, turn.
Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc in first st and 1 ch-sp), skip first ch-1 sp, 3 dc in center dc of next 3-dc group, *ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, 3 dc in center dc of next 3-dc group; repeat from * to tch, ch 1, dc in third ch of tch, turn.
Repeat Row 3 only for Lace pattern.
Motif Strips
Make 2 Motif Strips. Motif Strips are made of 12 (14, 16, 18) motifs each. One strip goes on each side of the neck.
Right Half
Right Front
With WS facing, join yarn with sl st at corner so you are ready to work up long edge of Strip.
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, and work 103 (121, 139, 157) sc evenly across half the squares only (6 (7, 8, 9) squares). This will be approximately 17 sc per square. Leave remaining 6 (7, 8, 9) squares unworked, turn ā 103 (121, 139, 157) sc.
Row 2 (RS): Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc in first st and 1 ch-sp), skip first sc, skip next 2 sc, 3 dc in next sc (dc group made), ch 1, skip next 2 sc, dc in next sc, *ch 1, skip next 2 sc, 3 dc in next sc, ch 1, skip next 2 sc, dc in next sc; repeat from * to end, turn ā 17 (20, 23, 26) dc groups.
Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc in first st and 1 ch-sp), skip first ch-1 sp, 3 dc in center dc of next 3-dc group, *ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, 3 dc in center dc of next 3-dc group; repeat from * to tch, ch 1, dc in third ch of tch, turn.
Repeat Row 3 10 (14, 18, 22) more times. Do not fasten off.
Sleeve
Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc, this starts the arm shaping without the extra ch 1), 3 dc in center dc of first 3-dc group, *ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, 3 dc in center dc of next 3-dc group; repeat from * to last 5 (7, 9, 11) dc groups (11 (12, 13, 14) repeats total), ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, leave remaining sts unworked, turn ā 12 (13, 14, 15) dc groups.
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc in first st and 1 ch-sp), skip first ch-1 sp, 3 dc in center dc of next 3-dc group, *ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, 3 dc in center dc of next 3-dc group; repeat from * to last 3-dc group, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, 2 dc in center dc of last 3-dc group, dc in top of tch, turn ā 11 (12, 13, 14) dc groups.
Row 3: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), skip first dc, dc in next dc, skip next dc, *ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, 3 dc in center dc of next 3-dc group; repeat from * to tch, ch 1, dc in third ch of tch, turn.
Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc in first st and 1 ch-sp), skip first ch-1 sp, 3 dc in center dc of next 3-dc group, *ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, 3 dc in center dc of next 3-dc group; repeat from * to last 2 ch-1 sps, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc2tog over last 2 dc (skipping ch-1 sp between them), turn.
Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), skip first ch-1 sp, 3 dc in center dc of first 3-dc group, *ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, 3 dc in center dc of next 3-dc group; repeat from * to tch, ch 1, dc in third ch of tch, turn.
Repeat Rows 2-5 once, then Rows 2-4 once more ā 9 (10, 11, 12) dc groups. Fasten off.
Right Back
With RS facing, join yarn with a sl st at opposite corner of same long edge of Motif Strip, and work other half of the Strip the same way as Right Front. RS and WS switch for the Right Back.
Left Half
Repeat directions for Right Front and Back, then rotate the piece 180 degrees (see schematic for orientation of pieces).

Finishing
Weave in all loose ends.
Joining Left and Right Halves
Lay out the two halves as shown in the schematic, and place a marker at inner edge of each half, 3.5 (4, 4.5, 5) Motifs (12.25 (14, 15.75, 17.5)” [31, 35.5, 40, 44.5 cm]) above bottom edge. The Left Front will be on your right and vice versa when facing the RS of the garment. See schematic for clarification.
With RS facing, join yarn with a sl st at lower inner corner of Left Front (bottom corner of bottom most motif).
Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc in lower inner corner of Right Front, [dc in Left Front edge, dc in Right Front edge] 7 more times across bottom pair of Motifs, *dc in Right Front edge, dc in Left Front edge; repeat from * to marker, working about 8 dcs in edge of each Motif, and ending with a dc in Left Front edge. Ch 3, and sl st to Right Front edge.
Fasten off and remove markers.
For Back Panel, join 5 (6, 7, 8) motifs (17.5 (21, 24.5, 28)” [44.5, 53.5, 62, 71 cm]) in the same manner as for Front.
Seaming
Fold Sweater in half at shoulders. With yarn needle whip stitch or woven stitch together shoulders, tops and bottoms of sleeves, and side seams. Weave in ends.
Blocking Tips
Wet blocking is like sending your yarn on a spa retreat. It’s the process where your yarn unwinds, enjoys a soothing cleanse, and settles gracefully into its final form, allowing its true beauty to flourish.
Here’s how to pamper your crocheted Floral Motif Tee with a thorough wet block:
- Submerge your piece in a basin or sink filled with cool water. Add a touch of gentle wool wash like Eucalan…it cleans AND conditions the fiber. Rinse only if your wash requires it.
- Remove as much water as you can WITHOUT stretching or twisting. Press against the sink, or gently squeeze between your hands. Never wring.
- š” Always support the entire garment when lifting…gravity will pull on whatever you don’t support and stretch it out of shape.
- Lay the damp piece on a large towel, fold the towel ends over your project, and roll it up like a burrito to wick away more moisture. You want damp, not sopping… and not dry.
- Place the piece on your blocking board, aligning with the grid for symmetry.
- Gently expand the piece to the schematic measurements, especially the neckline width, the bottom-to-armhole length, and the shoulder-to-armhole length.
- šØ Use extra care to avoid overstretching! While the garment is damp, some yarns love to overstretch. Trust me…the sample tee could have been blocked to a 5XL by accident. Don’t let it.
- Pin sparingly to keep the fabric flat. Smooth with your hands.
- Let it dry fully. This can take a full day. A fan speeds things up. Never block in direct sunlight (it can discolor the yarn).
Wet blocking is more than a finishing step…it’s the moment your crochet stitches settle into the heirloom-quality piece you’ve been working toward. Don’t skip it.
(If you’re new to blocking, the full step-by-step is in my Blocking Made Easy guide.)
Favorite & Queue on Ravelry
Favorite and queue the Floral Motif Tee on Ravelry so you never lose track of it…and so I can see how many of you are making this beauty š
More Free Crochet Summer Patterns You’ll Love
š· 12 Free Spring Sweater Patterns…a curated roundup of my favorite warm-weather sweater patterns.
š· Wildflowers Crochet Floral Motifs…explore more floral motif designs for any project.
š· Join-As-You-Go Blanket Patterns…perfect practice if you want to master the JAYG method on a no-fit-required project.
š· Crochet or Knit Lace?…a comparison if you’ve ever wondered which approach to lace fits your style.
š· Blocking Made Easy with the Right Tools…the full primer on wet blocking your finished crochet (and knit) pieces.

Frequently Asked Questions
What weight yarn works best for a crochet motif tee?
A CYCA #1 super fine (fingering / sock weight) yarn works best for this Floral Motif Tee. The lightweight yarn gives the lacy floral motifs and the lace panels the drape and breathability you want in a summer top. A wool/nylon blend is ideal because it offers stitch definition AND drape, but a silk-blend fingering yarn or merino fingering will also work beautifully. Avoid heavier yarns like worsted or DK for this specific pattern…the lace will lose its airy quality.
How do you join crochet motifs as you go?
Join-as-you-go (JAYG) crochet attaches each new motif to the previous one during the final round of the new motif. Instead of crocheting a complete corner or edge stitch, you slip stitch into the matching corner or edge space of the previous motif, then continue your round. By the time you finish the round, the motifs are already locked together…no sewing required. The Floral Motif Tee uses JAYG to build two long strips of joined motifs that form the front and back of the tee.
How do I block a crochet sweater?
Wet block your finished crochet sweater by submerging it in cool water with a no-rinse wool wash (Eucalan is a favorite), squeezing out the excess water without wringing, rolling it in a towel like a burrito, then laying it flat on a blocking mat. Gently shape it to the schematic measurements, pin sparingly, and let it dry completely (usually 24 hours). For the Floral Motif Tee, blocking is essential…it opens up the lace and floral motifs and creates the final drape.
What is positive vs. negative ease in crochet?
Ease refers to the difference between your body measurement and the finished garment measurement. Positive ease means the garment is larger than your body (a relaxed, drapey fit). Negative ease means your body is larger than the garment (a closer, more fitted look). The Floral Motif Tee is designed with 2-6″ of positive ease, but Marly wore the S/M sample with 4″ of negative ease for a more fitted look. Either is correct…pick based on the silhouette you want.
Can I make this crochet tee in plus sizes?
Yes. The updated Floral Motif Tee pattern is written in four sizes…S/M, L/XL, 2X/3X, and 4X/5X…with finished bust circumferences from 40″ to 64″. This is one of the few free crochet sweater patterns that goes all the way up to a 64″ finished bust. If your bust measures over 66″ and you’d like to size up further, the motif-based construction makes it relatively straightforward to add additional motifs to the strips and back panel.
How many motifs do I need to make for the Floral Motif Tee?
The Floral Motif Tee uses 24 motifs total for size S/M, 28 for L/XL, 32 for 2X/3X, and 36 for 4X/5X. The motifs are joined into two long strips (12, 14, 16, or 18 motifs per strip depending on size), with each strip running from the front to the back over one shoulder.
Is this pattern good for beginner or intermediate crocheters?
The Floral Motif Tee is an intermediate crochet pattern. You should be comfortable working in the round, reading written pattern instructions, working basic increases and decreases, and joining motifs together. Adventurous advanced beginners can absolutely tackle it, but it’s not a “first sweater” project. If you’ve made a granny square blanket and a few simple garments, you have the skills to make this tee.
What’s the difference between a motif tee and a regular crochet top?
A motif tee is built from small, individually crocheted shapes (motifs) that are joined together to form the garment. A “regular” crochet top is usually worked as a continuous fabric, either top-down, bottom-up, or in flat pieces that are seamed. Motif construction tends to result in lacier, lighter fabric with more visual interest, while continuous crochet often produces a denser, more uniform fabric. The Floral Motif Tee combines both: floral motifs form the yokes, and lace panels worked directly onto the motif strips form the body.
Final Thoughts
This updated Floral Motif Tee is one of my favorite patterns to share, and I’m so glad I finally got to size it all the way up to 4X/5X. Crochet should be for every body…and free crochet sweater patterns that fit larger sizes should be the norm, not the exception. So make this tee for yourself, make it for a friend, share the pattern with someone who’s been searching for a free pattern in their size… and please come back and tell me how it turned out. I love seeing your makes š
Tag me on Instagram @marlybird or share inside Marly’s Minions on Facebook. I’m always rooting for you.
ā¤ļø Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

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