This free crochet entrelac pattern teaches you single crochet entrelac… a beginner-friendly version of the “scary” knit technique you’ve probably heard about. The Pieces of You crochet entrelac wrap is worked in tiers of squares with a single crochet you already know, finished in triangles for a clean straight edge, and shown off in a gorgeous gradient cake yarn. Designed by Marly Bird as part of Spring Fling 2026.

Here’s the thing nobody tells you about entrelac… single crochet entrelac is NOT the scary knit version. It’s NOT Tunisian entrelac either. It’s plain old single crochet… the very first stitch you ever learned… worked in a clever order that builds up interlocking woven blocks. If you can sc, you can do this. The Pieces of You wrap is the perfect way to fall in love with the technique.

Hey, bestie 💛 If entrelac has been on your “someday when I’m braver” list, today is your day. This free crochet entrelac pattern uses one stitch (single crochet), one gorgeous gradient cake yarn (Red Heart It’s a Wrap Rainbow), and one repeating set of tier instructions to build a 68″ wingspan wrap that looks like you’ve been crocheting forever. I wrote it specifically to be the friendliest entry point into entrelac that exists on the internet… and I’m so excited for you to try it.

Affiliate disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means if you click through and purchase, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend yarns and tools I’ve used and trust with my yarn-loving heart. Thank you for supporting free patterns on the blog 💛

What You Will Love About This Pattern 💖

✨ Only one stitch. Single crochet, start to finish. No Tunisian hook, no special technique you’ve never tried. If you can chain, single crochet, and slip stitch… you can crochet entrelac. Promise.

🌈 Gradient yarn does the heavy lifting. The Pieces of You wrap is designed for cake yarn… that magical self-striping yarn that shifts colors all on its own. You get a wrap that looks like you spent hours planning a color sequence… when really, the yarn did it for you while you watched Netflix.

🪡 Designer-intentional drape. I deliberately call for a hook one size larger than the yarn label suggests. That looser gauge is what gives this wrap its drapey, wear-it-everywhere feel. (More on the why down in the materials section… it’s one of my favorite teaching moments in this pattern.)

📐 Repeatable rhythm. Once you finish Tier 1 and Tier 2, every interior tier follows the same rhythm. It becomes meditative… the kind of project you pick up after dinner and don’t put down until you’ve added another tier.

📏 Generous, wearable size. 68″ wingspan by 34″ deep… big enough to wrap, drape, and feel like a real shawl, not a scarf pretending to be one.

Quick Pattern Overview

🧶 Skill Level: Intermediate (advanced beginner with patience can absolutely do this)

📏 Finished Size: 68″ [172.5 cm] wingspan x 34″ [86.5 cm] deep

📐 Gauge: 18 sc by 19 rows = 4″ x 4″

🌈 Yarn: Red Heart It’s a Wrap Rainbow (CYCA #2 sport, 632 yds / 5.29 oz cake), Foggy colorway, 2 balls *sadly this yarn has been discontinued

🪝 Hook: Size I/9 (5.5 mm)… yes, bigger than the ball band suggests. On purpose. Trust me.

🎨 Construction: Worked in tiers of squares from corner to corner; final tier worked in triangles for a clean straight edge.

Is This Crochet Wrap Right for You?

This pattern is a beautiful fit if you’ve crocheted a few projects beyond a granny square and you’re ready to try something that looks impressive without actually being hard. You should be comfortable working single crochet, slip stitch, and reading row-by-row instructions. Each square is just sc… but the connection between squares (the sc2tog into the previous tier + slip stitch turn) takes a few rounds of practice before it clicks.

If you’ve been intimidated by entrelac on knitting Instagram or by Tunisian entrelac videos… this is your gateway. SC entrelac is genuinely the most approachable version of the technique that exists. And once you’ve made one, you’ll see entrelac everywhere and want to make ten more.

If you’re a brand-new beginner who has never finished a project? Save this for your second or third make. You’ll enjoy it so much more once basic single crochet feels automatic.

What Is Single Crochet Entrelac?

Entrelac is a technique where small geometric shapes (usually squares) are worked one at a time and connected to the previous row of squares as you go. The result is fabric that looks woven, like a basket or a tile floor, even though it’s all one continuous piece worked with one tool.

A single crochet entrelac pattern uses only single crochet stitches plus slip stitches to build those interlocking blocks. There’s no Tunisian hook, no special equipment, and no new stitch to learn. The “magic” is in the order you work the squares… you work into the edges of previous squares to anchor the next row of blocks, which is what creates the woven illusion.

That’s literally the whole secret. Stitches worked into edges of previous squares = interlocking blocks. The fabric does the impressive part for you.

SC Entrelac vs Knit Entrelac vs Tunisian Entrelac

If you’ve Googled “entrelac” before and ended up overwhelmed, here’s why… most of the entrelac content online is one of two intimidating versions. Let me break down all three so you can see exactly where SC entrelac fits.

Knit entrelac. Worked with two knitting needles using a combination of pick-up stitches, short rows, and constant turning. Beautiful, but a real commitment of brain power. Most “entrelac is hard” reputations come from knit entrelac. But I am here to tell you, as somebody who literally wrote a book for How to Knit Entrelac, you can do this! (If you also knit, I have a stunning Dragonscale Knit Entrelac Blanket here on the blog that’s worth bookmarking once you’ve conquered the crochet version.)

Tunisian entrelac. Worked with a Tunisian (Afghan) hook… the long one with a stopper on the end. Tunisian crochet has its own learning curve before you even get to entrelac, and many crocheters never use a Tunisian hook at all. My friend Mikey of The Crochet Crowd just released a beautiful Tunisian entrelac workshop, and it’s gorgeous work… but it’s a different skill set.

Single crochet entrelac (this pattern). Worked with a regular crochet hook using single crochet, slip stitch, and sc2tog. The same tools you already own. The same stitches you already know. That’s it. That’s the whole technique. SC entrelac is the friendliest version of entrelac (imho) that exists, and it produces a fabric just as beautiful as the other two.

This is the differentiation that matters: when you see “entrelac” in the wild and feel a little flutter of fear… remember, the Pieces of You wrap is single crochet. Just single crochet. You’re already qualified.

Why Single Crochet Entrelac Is Easier Than You Think

1. You only need one stitch. Single crochet… the first stitch every crocheter learns. Plus the slip stitch to turn. That’s the whole stitch vocabulary. No double crochet, no trebles, no special texture stitches.

2. Each square is independent and tiny. On this pattern, 18 stitches by 19 rows. That’s a few minutes of crocheting per square. If you mess up a square, you frog one little block, not a whole row. The mental load of entrelac is way smaller than it looks.

3. The pattern is repeatable. Tier 3 establishes the rhythm. Tiers 4 through 10 repeat that exact same rhythm. Once you’ve worked one full tier, the next seven feel like muscle memory.

4. The yarn does the visual work. Gradient cake yarn means you don’t have to plan a single color change. You crochet… the colors shift on their own… and the finished wrap looks intentional and designer-y. Effort vs. reward on this pattern is one of the best in my entire catalog.

The Corner to Corner Connection

If you’ve ever made a corner-to-corner (C2C) crochet blanket, you already know more than you think about entrelac. Corner to corner entrelac crochet is essentially what we’re doing here… building the fabric diagonally, one block at a time, from one corner outward. The Pieces of You crochet shawl is structured exactly the same way, just with single crochet squares instead of double crochet C2C blocks.

If you fell in love with C2C and want to level up… entrelac is your next stop. The construction logic is identical; the texture is just more sophisticated.

Curious about corner-to-corner entrelac crochet but not sure where to start? Think a shawl is too much? Not a problem!

Get this fun and easy crochet corner to corner single crochet entrelac block that can be turned into a afghan square, or pot holder, or throw pillow, or cushion, then simply sign up for the Marly Bird Newsletter and get the free downloadable pdf pattern for the C2C Single Crochet Entrelac Block

(Want to see what I more? Head over to my free corner-to-corner crochet patterns roundup for inspiration on where C2C and entrelac overlap.)

Watch the Full Video Tutorial

To view the video on YouTube Click Here

Yarn & Materials

Designer Yarn: Red Heart It’s a Wrap Rainbow

This wrap was designed using Red Heart It’s a Wrap Rainbow in the Foggy colorway… a 55% acrylic / 45% cotton blend that comes in a generous 632-yard cake. The acrylic gives it body and durability; the cotton gives it that lovely soft drape. And because it’s a self-striping cake, you get all the gradient color shifts without ever cutting yarn for a color change. Two cakes is all you need for the full 68″ wingspan.

Designer Tip… Why the bigger hook? The ball band on It’s a Wrap Rainbow recommends a smaller hook than I’m asking you to use. That’s intentional. A size I/9 (5.5 mm) hook with this CYCA #2 sport-weight yarn creates a slightly looser fabric… and that looseness is what makes the wrap drape instead of stand stiff. If you go down to the ball-band-recommended hook, you’ll end up with a sturdier fabric that wears more like a placemat than a wrap. Trust the bigger hook. (Same logic applies to many shawl and wrap patterns… designer-chosen gauge is almost always optimized for drape, not for matching the ball band.)

Yarn Substitutions

If you can’t find Red Heart It’s a Wrap Rainbow (it’s been popping in and out of stock), or you want to play with a different gradient, here are my go-to substitute options for cake yarn projects:

Other gradient cake yarns to consider: Lion Brand Mandala String (size 1 weight yarn, new to us but might be great), Lion Brand Mandala (DK weight, comes in beautiful color stories; you may need 3 cakes for the full yardage), Caron Cakes (worsted weight; go down a hook size and check gauge carefully), Premier Sweet Roll (similar weight to It’s a Wrap, gorgeous self-striping), and the Facets™ Yarn by Loops & Threads (worsted weight, 100% Acrylic, similar drape behavior).

💕 The Chevron Waves Crochet Wrap – Another Lace Weight Crochet Shawl Free Pattern

If you want to swap to a non-cake yarn and choose your own colors, you’ll need approximately 1,250 yards of CYCA #2 sport-weight yarn. Just be aware that without the self-striping element, you’ll be doing your own color-change planning… which is its own kind of fun.

Tools & Notions

Beyond yarn, here’s what you’ll want on hand:

• Crochet hook: Size I/9 (5.5 mm)
• Stitch markers… you’ll use these on the last stitch of every Row 19 to mark the corner of each finished square. They’re essential, not optional.
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
• Blocking mats and pins (or blocking wires)… entrelac fabric blooms beautifully when blocked. Pick up blocking wires here if you don’t have them yet.
• Wool wash… I love Eucalan for blocking, no rinse needed.

Love the Pattern but Want an Ad-Free PDF?

The full Pieces of You pattern is right here on the blog for free, forever. But if you’d rather have a clean, printable, ad-free PDF you can take to your reading chair (or to your favorite yarn shop), the formatted PDF is available in my shops:

• Pieces of You on Etsy
• Pieces of You on the Marly Bird Shop
• Pieces of You on Ravelry

Pieces of You — Pattern Details

Skill Level

Intermediate

Finished Measurements

68″ [172.5 cm] wingspan x 34″ [86.5 cm] deep

Gauge

19 sc by 19 rows = 4″ x 4″ [10 x 10 cm]; use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

Materials

• Yarn: Red Heart It’s a Wrap Rainbow (55% acrylic / 45% cotton, 632 yds / 570 m, 5.29 oz / 150 g, CYCA #2 sport): Foggy colorway, 2 balls
• Hook: Size I/9 (5.5 mm)
• Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle

Abbreviations

• Ch — Chain(s)
• PM — Place marker
• RS — Right Side
• Sc — Single Crochet
• Sc2tog — Single Crochet Two Together
• Sc3tog — Single Crochet Three Together
• Sl st — Slip Stitch
• Sp(s) — Space(s)
• St(s) — Stitch(es)
• Tch — Turning Chain
• WS — Wrong Side

Special Stitches

⭐️ Reverse Single Crochet (rev sc): Also known as a Crab Stitch. Working from left to right, insert hook from front to back in next stitch to the right, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook. This is what gives the finished wrap its tidy, twisted-rope edging.

⭐️ Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog): *Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop; repeat from * in next stitch indicated, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. In this pattern, sc2tog is the magic stitch that joins each new square to the edge of the previous tier.

⭐️ Single Crochet 3 Together (sc3tog): *Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop; repeat from * in next 2 stitches indicated, yarn over and draw through all 4 loops on hook. In this pattern, sc3tog is only used on the final row of the triangles.

Layout

Stitch Diagram

The crochet stitch diagram is exclusive to the ad-free pdf.

Notes

The shawl is worked with a bigger hook than listed on the ball band on purpose. The looser gauge will help the fabric drape more and create a nicer garment.

The single crochet entrelac technique used in this shawl is similar to the corner to corner technique.

To work the entrelac technique, start by working the first square of Tier 1. All subsequent Tiers (2-11) work off of the previous tier to build up the work. See the layout and stitch diagram as a guide.

When starting a new ball of yarn, begin at the same starting color as used on Tier 1. (This is what keeps the gradient consistent across the whole wrap. The cake yarn shifts colors gradually within each ball, so re-starting at the matching color point on ball 2 keeps the visual flow uninterrupted.)

The final tier of the shawl is made in triangles instead of squares to finish with a straight edge. (Without the triangles, your wrap would end on a zigzag… the triangles fill in the negative space along the top edge and give you that clean, straight finish a wrap deserves.)

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I’m thrilled to share this amazing pattern with you, many patterns on my blog are absolutely free! I kindly request that you don’t copy and paste or distribute this pattern. Prefer an ad-free experience? Buy a digital PDF pattern for a small fee from one of my online stores for a seamless crafting journey.

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Pieces of You — Pattern Instructions

Pattern was updated to have an odd number of stitches on 6-1-2026.

Tier 1

Chain 20.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across, turn — 19 sc.

Rows 2-19: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Place a marker in the last st on Row 19. Do not fasten off.

Tier 3

Square 1

Chain 20, turn.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the next 18 ch, sc2tog (the last chain and the marked stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier [note: the slipped stitch takes the place of the ch 1 we usually do after the turn], turn — 19 sts (17 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 2: Sc in sc2tog and in each sc across, turn — 19 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 18 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 19 sts (17 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Repeat Rows 2-3 eight more times, place a marker in the last stitch on Row 19, do not fasten off, do not turn.

Square 2

Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier:

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, 18 sc evenly along the edge, sc2tog (the last sc and the marked stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 19 sts (17 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 2 (WS): Sc in sc2tog, and each sc across, turn — 19 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 18 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 19 sts (17 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Repeat Rows 2-3 eight more times, place a marker in the last stitch on Row 19, do not fasten off, do not turn.

Square 3

Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier:

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, 19 sc evenly along the edge, turn — 19 sc.

Rows 2-19: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Place a marker in the last st on Row 19.

Tiers 4-11

Repeat directions from Tier 3. Start with a Square 1, then repeat Square 2 for all interior squares, and finish with a Square 3. See layout for assistance.

Tier 12 (Triangle Finishing Tier)

This final tier uses triangles instead of squares to fill in the zigzag edge and give your wrap a clean, straight top edge. Each triangle decreases gradually until it tapers to a point.

Triangle 1

Chain 20, turn.

Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the next 18 ch, sc2tog (the last chain and the marked stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier [note: the slipped stitch takes the place of the ch 1 we usually do after the turn], turn — 19 sts (18 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 2: Sc in sc2tog and in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn —18 ( 17 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc to last sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 17 sts (15 sc + 2 sc2tog).

Row 4: Sc in sc2tog and in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn —16 sts (15 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc to last sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 15 sts (13 sc + 2 sc2tog).

Row 6: Sc in sc2tog and in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 14 sts (13 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 7: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc to last sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 13 sts (11 sc + 2 sc2tog).

Row 8: Sc in sc2tog and in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 12 sts (11 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 9: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc to last sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 11 sts (9 sc + 2 sc2tog).

Row 10: Sc in sc2tog and in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 10 sts (9 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 11: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc to last sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 9 sts (7 sc + 2 sc2tog).

Row 12: Sc in sc2tog and in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn —8 sts (7 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 13: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc to last sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 7 sts (5 sc + 2 sc2tog).

Row 14: Sc in sc2tog and in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 6 sts (5 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 15: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc to last sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 5 sts (3 sc + 2 sc2tog).

Row 16: Sc in sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 4 sts (3 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 17: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in next sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn —3 sts (1 sc, 2 sc2tog).

Row 18: Sc in sc2tog, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn – 2 sts (1 sc, 1 sc2tog).

Row 19: Ch 1, sc3tog over sc2tog and next st on square from previous tier. Do not fasten off, do not turn. Place a marker in the last st on Row 19.

Triangle 2

Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, 18 sc evenly along the edge, sc2tog (the last sc and the marked stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn —19 sts ( 18 sc, 1 sc2tog).

Row 2: Sc in sc2tog and in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn —18 ( 17 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc to last sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 17 sts (15 sc + 2 sc2tog).

Row 4: Sc in sc2tog and in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn —16 sts (15 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc to last sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 15 sts (13 sc + 2 sc2tog).

Row 6: Sc in sc2tog and in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 14 sts (13 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 7: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc to last sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 13 sts (11 sc + 2 sc2tog).

Row 8: Sc in sc2tog and in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 12 sts (11 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 9: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc to last sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 11 sts (9 sc + 2 sc2tog).

Row 10: Sc in sc2tog and in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 10 sts (9 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 11: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc to last sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 9 sts (7 sc + 2 sc2tog).

Row 12: Sc in sc2tog and in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn —8 sts (7 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 13: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc to last sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 7 sts (5 sc + 2 sc2tog).

Row 14: Sc in sc2tog and in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 6 sts (5 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 15: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc to last sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn — 5 sts (3 sc + 2 sc2tog).

Row 16: Sc in sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 4 sts (3 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 17: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in next sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn —3 sts (1 sc, 2 sc2tog).

Row 18: Sc in sc2tog, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn – 2 sts (1 sc, 1 sc2tog).

Row 19: Ch 1, sc3tog over sc2tog and next st on square from previous tier. Do not fasten off, do not turn. Place a marker in the last st on Row 19.

Repeat Triangle 2 for all interior squares, end with a Triangle 3.  See layout for assistance.

Triangle 3

Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier:

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, 19 sc evenly along the edge, turn — 19 sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 18 sts (16 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc across, turn — 17 sts (15 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 16 sts (15 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc across, turn — 15 sts (15 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 14 sts (16 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 7: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc across, turn — 13 sts (15 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 12 sts (16 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 9: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc across, turn — 11 sts (15 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 10 sts (16 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 11: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc across, turn — 9 sts (15 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 12: Ch 1, sc in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 8 sts (16 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 13: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc across, turn — 7 sts (15 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 14: Ch 1, sc in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 6 sts (16 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 15: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc across, turn — 5 sts (15 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 16: Ch 1, sc in each sc across to last 2 sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn — 4 sts (3 sc + 1 sc2tog).

Row 17: Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc, sc in each sc across, turn —3 sts (1 sc, 2 sc2tog).

Row 18: Ch 1, sc in next sc, sc2tog over last 2 sc, turn – 2 sts (1 sc, 1 sc2tog).

Row 19: Ch 1, sc2tog over last 2 sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Border

With RS facing, join yarn with a slip stitch to any corner.

Round 1 (RS): *3 sc in corner, sc evenly along the edge; repeat from * around, sl st to first sc, do not turn.

Round 2: Reverse sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc to join, fasten off. Weave in ends.

Blocking Tips

Entrelac fabric is the kind of fabric that blooms when it’s blocked. Before blocking, the squares can look a little compressed and the woven effect feels subtle. After blocking, the squares relax open, the diagonal lines between them become crisp, and the whole wrap finally looks like the photos. Do not skip this step.

Wet block (recommended for this wrap):

• Fill a clean sink or basin with cool water and a tiny splash of Eucalan wool wash. Soak the finished wrap for 15-20 minutes… gently press it under the water; do not agitate.
• Drain the water without lifting the wrap (lifting a soaking wet shawl by one corner stretches it permanently). Press out as much water as you can with the wrap still in the basin, then transfer it onto a clean towel.
• Roll the wrap up in the towel like a burrito and press to remove excess water.
• Lay the wrap flat on blocking mats. Pin it to the schematic dimensions: 68″ wingspan x 34″ deep. Use blocking pins along the top straight edge and at the bottom point. Take your time getting the angles even.
• Let it dry completely before unpinning… usually 12-24 hours depending on humidity.

Spray block (faster alternative): Pin the dry wrap to size on your blocking mats, then mist it thoroughly with cool water from a spray bottle until the fabric is damp throughout. Let dry completely. Less dramatic than a full wet block, but still effective.

Designer Tip… Pin every corner of every square. If you really want the woven effect to pop, place a pin at each corner of each entrelac square (where four squares meet). It’s tedious but the difference is striking. The blocked fabric will show every interlocking block clearly. This is how you get that “did you really make that?” reaction.

Make It Your Own: Color Variations & Yarn Substitutions

Stick with gradient cake yarn. The whole magic of this design is the self-striping color shift… it’s what makes a one-stitch wrap look intentional and designer-y. If you swap to a solid yarn, you’ll have a pretty wrap, but you’ll lose 80% of the visual impact. My strongest recommendation is to stay with a cake-style gradient yarn even if you swap brands.

Plan your second cake. Per the pattern notes, when you start the second cake of yarn, begin at the same color as the start of cake 1. This keeps the gradient flowing visually instead of jumping mid-wrap. Take 3 minutes to wind off (or pull from the center) until you reach the matching color point… it’s worth the small bit of waste for a wrap that looks cohesive.

Color shift placement. If you want full control over WHERE in the wrap the color shifts happen, pause and pull off color sections to create your own custom transitions. Most makers love the surprise of letting the cake do its thing… but if you want stripes to land at specific tier boundaries, you can absolutely engineer that.

Want a moodier version? Try a darker cake yarn (Lion Brand Mandala “Sphinx” colorway, or any of the Hobbii Cotton Sky Cake darker palettes) for a winter-friendly Pieces of You. Same pattern, completely different vibe.

More Crochet Wrap & Shawl Patterns You’ll Love

If you fall in love with single crochet entrelac (and you will), here are more crochet wraps and shawls from the blog to add to your queue:

• Free Crochet Corner to Corner Patterns Roundup… every C2C pattern on the blog, all in one place. The natural next stop if you loved this construction.
• Boysenberry Bramble SC Entrelac Cowl… a smaller, faster project to keep practicing single crochet entrelac.
• Spring Fling 2026 Hub… the full lineup of free patterns from this 20-day event, knit and crochet.
• Wildberry Single Crochet Entrelac Wrap… beautiful pattern that highlights long color changing yarn.

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Favorite & Queue on Ravelry

Save the Pieces of You wrap to your Ravelry queue so you can come back to it any time:

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Frequently Asked Questions

What is single crochet entrelac?

Single crochet entrelac is a crochet technique where small squares are worked one at a time and joined to the previous row of squares as you go, using only single crochet, slip stitch, and sc2tog. The result is a fabric that looks woven… like interlocking blocks… even though it’s all one continuous piece. Unlike Tunisian entrelac (which needs a special hook) or knit entrelac (which uses two needles and short rows), single crochet entrelac uses tools and stitches you already own.

Is SC entrelac the same as Tunisian entrelac?

No. Tunisian entrelac is worked with a Tunisian (Afghan) hook, which is a long crochet hook with a stopper on the end, using Tunisian stitches like Tunisian simple stitch. Single crochet entrelac uses a regular crochet hook and only single crochet stitches. Both produce a similar woven-block fabric, but the technique and tools are completely different… and SC entrelac is much friendlier for crocheters who haven’t learned Tunisian crochet yet.

Why is the recommended hook bigger than the yarn label suggests?

Designer-chosen gauge for shawls and wraps is almost always optimized for drape, not for matching the ball band. The Pieces of You wrap calls for a size I/9 (5.5 mm) hook with a CYCA #2 sport yarn, which is one or two sizes larger than the ball band recommends. That looser gauge gives the finished wrap its flowy, wearable drape. If you go down to the ball-band-recommended hook, you’ll end up with a fabric that’s too dense and stiff to wear comfortably as a wrap.

Can I substitute the yarn?

Yes. The pattern was designed for Red Heart It’s a Wrap Rainbow, but any CYCA #2 sport-weight gradient cake yarn will work beautifully. Good substitute options include Lion Brand Mandala (DK weight, may need 3 cakes), Premier Sweet Roll, and Hobbii Cotton Sky Cake. You can also use a non-cake yarn… you’ll need approximately 1,250 yards of CYCA #2 sport… but you’ll lose the self-striping effect and need to plan your own color changes. And to keep the drape, it is recommended to use a hook larger than what the ball band calls for!

What’s the difference between this and corner-to-corner crochet?

Corner-to-corner (C2C) crochet and single crochet entrelac share the same diagonal construction… both build fabric one block at a time, working outward from one corner. The difference is the stitch and texture. Traditional C2C uses double crochet “blocks” of 3 dc, creating a stair-step pattern. Single crochet entrelac uses larger 18-stitch single crochet squares, creating a smoother, more woven look. If you’ve made a C2C blanket, you already know the construction logic… entrelac is the next step up in texture sophistication.

Is this beginner-friendly or do I need to be experienced?

The pattern is rated Intermediate, but advanced beginners can absolutely tackle it. You should be comfortable with single crochet, slip stitch, sc2tog, and reading row-by-row written instructions. The trickiest moment is the “slip stitch in place of the ch-1 turn” technique that joins each square to the previous tier… it takes a few squares before it clicks, but once it does, the rest of the wrap is meditative repetition. Brand-new crocheters who have never finished a project should save this for their second or third make. Just have Blind Faith!

How long will this take to make?

Most intermediate crocheters finish the Pieces of You wrap in 35-50 hours of total crochet time, depending on speed and how often you frog. That’s roughly 2-4 weeks of evening crocheting. Each square takes about 20-30 minutes once the rhythm sets in, and the wrap has 66 squares plus the triangle finishing tier. Pace yourself… entrelac rewards rested, focused crocheting more than rushed marathon sessions.

How do I block a finished crochet wrap?

Wet block by soaking the finished wrap in cool water with a small amount of no-rinse wool wash for 15-20 minutes. Press out the water (do not lift or wring), roll in a clean towel to remove more moisture, then pin to the finished schematic dimensions on blocking mats. Let dry completely before unpinning. Blocking is essential for entrelac fabric… the squares relax open and the woven effect becomes much more pronounced. For a faster method, pin the dry wrap to size and mist thoroughly with a spray bottle.

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Final Thoughts

Entrelac was on my “someday” list for years before I finally tried it. Once I learned the single crochet version, I made up for lost time… I couldn’t stop. The Pieces of You wrap is the pattern I wish someone had handed me at the beginning… approachable, gradient-yarn-friendly, beautifully drapey, and built so the construction makes sense as you go. If you make it, share it with me using the hashtag at the bottom of this post. I love seeing your color choices.

And remember… single crochet entrelac is NOT the scary version. It’s the friendly version. You’ve got this

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie, Marly Bird

#PiecesOfYouWrap