The Mariposa Textured Triangle Shawl is a free intermediate knit triangle shawl pattern in worsted weight yarn… a top-down design with four progressive textured stitch sections, yarn-over increases that create a subtle lace spine, and a bold applied border. Worked on US 9 needles, this knit shawl is warm, wearable, and ideal for crafters ready to stretch their skills with focus and rhythm.

📝 Updated May 7, 2026: Voice and framework refresh… added an AI summary, expanded the FAQ with deeper answers + schema markup, refreshed yarn substitute notes, and tucked in the standard Marly sign-off.

Knitting a textured triangle shawl in worsted weight yarn is one of the most satisfying ways to challenge your skills while creating a warm, wearable piece. The Mariposa Shawl is a top-down intermediate knit triangle shawl pattern originally designed as the “Be Quiet, I’m Knitting” concentration level from the first Tournament of Stitches in 2018.

If you love projects that require focus, reward attention to detail, and result in a cozy, snuggle-worthy shawl you’ll actually wear… this one is for you. 🦋

Hey, bestie 💛 If you love knit shawls, you should check out my entire collection of knit shawl patterns here on my website.

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through one of these links I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and you get to support this yarn-loving heart while I keep the free patterns coming. Thank you!

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What You Will Love About This Pattern 💖

• A true top-down triangle shawl construction
• Four progressive textured stitch sections
• Yarn-over increases creating a subtle lace spine
• A bold applied border worked perpendicular to the body
• Warm, cushy worsted weight fabric
• Customizable color possibilities
• Designed for knitters ready to stretch their skills

✨ Designer Note: This is a “Be Quiet, I’m Knitting” project. There are moments where you’ll want to pause the movie, count carefully, and trust your stitches. And that’s part of the magic.

Quick Pattern Overview

Skill Level: Intermediate (strong intermediate skills recommended)
Concentration Level: Be Quiet, I’m Knitting 🎧
Construction: Top-down triangle
Sections: Four distinct textured stitch patterns
Border: Applied border worked off live stitches
Yarn Weight: Worsted (#4)

Finished Size (excluding border):

• Wingspan: 70” (178 cm)
• Depth: 34–35” (86–89 cm)

This is not an all-over lace shawl.
It is not garter stitch.

It is a textured knit triangle shawl combining stockinette, knit-purl texture, lace elements, shaping increases, and decreases… all working together to create something visually rich and structurally strong.

About This Knit Triangle Shawl

Mariposa is a true top-down triangle shawl worked from a traditional garter tab cast-on and shaped with consistent edge and center increases.

The triangular shaping remains the same throughout the body.
What changes is the internal stitch pattern.

This allows you to:

• Build skill progressively
• Maintain consistent shaping
• Focus on texture without worrying about fit
• Create dramatic wingspan with balanced proportions

If you’re curious about different shawl constructions, you may also enjoy:
👉 https://marlybird.com/blog/make-it-mine-knit-shawl/

A quick knitting tutorial showing 7 different ways to wear a knit shawl using the Mari Shawl pattern by Marly Bird. This versatile knit accessory can be styled as a scarf, wrap, or layering piece. Includes a free knit shawl pattern and styling inspiration for knitters.

The Story Behind the Mariposa Shawl 🦋

Mariposa was part of the very first Tournament of Stitches in 2018.

Tournament of Stitches (TOS) is a month-long, skill-building make-along presented every two years. Participants choose their concentration level… from relaxed “Social Butterfly”, to TV knitting with “Netflix and Chill“, to soothing music for “Smooth Jazz”, and finally the ultimate focus concentration level of “Be Quiet, I'm Knitting”.

Mariposa represents the ultimate focused concentration level from that inaugural year.

Each section:

• Maintains consistent triangle shaping
• Introduces a different stitch pattern
• Intentionally builds skill
• Expands confidence

The original sample was worked in a single color. Later, I explored a multi-color version… because you know I love options.

You can:

• Knit it in one cohesive shade
• Fade colors between sections
• Use stash yarn creatively
• Change colors more frequently than I did

This design was built to stretch your skills — not break your spirit.

Learn more about Tournament of Stitches here:
👉 https://marlybird.com/blog/tournament-of-stitches-mystery-make-along/

The Applied Border — Why It’s Different

The Mariposa border is worked perpendicular to the shawl body.

Instead of binding off and picking up later, you work stitches off the live shawl stitches as you knit the border.

This technique:

• Requires attention to stitch placement
• Requires comfort picking up and joining stitches
• Creates a structured architectural finish
• Elevates the final look dramatically

It isn’t complicated because it’s confusing.
It’s intermediate because it requires presence.

Worsted Weight Yarn Shawl – Too Big or Just Right?

I love knitting shawls in worsted weight yarn.

It works up faster.
It creates bold stitch definition.
It feels warm and cushy.
It becomes a true winter accessory.

This is not a delicate spring wrap.

This is a warm knit triangle shawl that wraps you up and says,
“Yes. I meant to make this dramatic.”

Too big?

Not at all.

Just right.

🧵 Yarn Details (Including Substitutions!)

Originally designed with Red Heart Chic Sheep by Marly Bird™, a 100% merino wool worsted-weight yarn.

Since Chic Sheep has been discontinued, excellent substitutes include:

• Malabrigo Rios
https://tidd.ly/49VZcW1

• Berroco Ultra Wool
https://tidd.ly/4pSjENv

• Swish Worsted
https://tidd.ly/4qL6Zxt

• Cascade 220 Superwash
https://tidd.ly/4afBG7B

• Madelinetosh Tosh Vintage
https://tidd.ly/4rgPp3P

When substituting, look for:

Strong stitch definition

Worsted weight (#4)

Merino wool or soft wool blend

🧶 Knitting Needles & Notions

Regarding the knitting needles needed for this knit shawl pattern: I suggest using longer circular knitting needles for this project to accommodate the number of stitches. It is not uncommon for triangle shawl knitters to start with a 24″ circular needle then transition to a longer 32″ circular needle when the stitches become too cramped on the previous size.

Especially when you are working with a worsted weight yarn for the shawl as it is thicker and takes up more space.

There are some shawl knitters who prefer to just begin with the longer needles an don't mind the extra long cord length…but that does annoy others.

For that reason, I am recommending a US 9 (5.5mm) 24” [60 cm], 32″ [80 cm] circular or longer; or size to obtain accurate gauge.

As for the notions: These are items that many knitters have in their toolkit but it is important that they are listed just in case there happens to be something you don't have. This is a list of all the notions I used to not only knit the shawl but to complete the finishing.

You can click any of the items to view what I recommend or check out my Amazon storefront and get ideas for other items.

• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle 
• Scissors
• Tape measure
• Notions Bag for Supplies
• Leather tags
• Leather rivets
• Blocking Squares
• Blocking Pins
• Soaking Basin
• Eucalan Wool Wash

Shawl Gauge — Does It Matter?

Gauge for this knit shawl is 18 sts = 4” (10 cm) in stockinette stitch, unblocked

Because this is not a fitted garment, gauge is forgiving.

However, gauge matters if:

• You want the exact finished size
• You have limited yardage
• You want border alignment to match
• You want the same drape

Gauge is measured in stockinette stitch only.

Even though multiple stitch patterns are used, achieving gauge in stockinette ensures proportional accuracy throughout the design.

Don’t ignore gauge entirely… unless you want a tablecloth… or a bandana. 😉

Skill Expectations — Let’s Be Honest

This is not beginner-friendly.

You should feel confident with:

• Yarn overs
• Decreases (SSK, K2tog)
• Reading stitch patterns
• Counting stitches
• Managing pattern repeats

There will be moments when distractions are not your friend.

And that’s okay.

Knitting is just sticks and string.

With patience, focus, and grace for yourself, you can absolutely knit this shawl.

Use lifelines.
Mark your repeats.
Trust your stitches.

Prefer the Ad-Free PDF?

If you prefer an uninterrupted experience, the ad-free PDF is available on:

Don’t forget to favorite this pattern on Ravelry and add it to your queue!

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

This shawl requires focused counting during shaping and lace sections.

You will:

• Increase 4 stitches on designated rows
• Maintain a center stitch
• Track stitch counts carefully at section transitions
• Join the border as you go

I strongly recommend placing stitch markers exactly as instructed and inserting lifelines before major stitch pattern changes.

This is not a background-movie project. This is a “lean in and enjoy the rhythm” project.

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Mariposa Chic Knit Triangle Shawl Pattern Details

SKILL LEVEL

Strong Intermediate to Advanced

This pattern includes multiple stitch patterns, lace elements, shaping increases, and a joined border. Focus is required during shaping and lace sections.

Concentration Level
Smooth Jazz → BE QUIET I’M KNITTING 🎧

MEASUREMENTS

Finished Measurements
Wingspan: 70” [178 cm]
Depth: 34–35” [86–89 cm]

Measurements do not include border edging.
These are flexible depending on how large you block the piece.

Gauge
18 sts = 4″ in stockinette stitch (unblocked)

Gauge taken in stockinette stitch only.

Although the shawl contains multiple stitch patterns, stockinette gauge will produce correct proportional sizing across the design.

MATERIALS

Yarn used in sample
Red Heart Chic Sheep by Marly Bird™  [Art. R170 100% Merino Wool available 3.5 oz (100 g), 186 yd (170 m) balls, CYC size 4 yarn];

• 1 ball Fairy Tale
• 1 ball Velvet
• 2 balls Green Tea
• 3 balls of Sangria
  Prefer the shawl is one color?
  • 7 balls of any one color

Needles
9 (5.5mm) 24” [60 cm] and 32″ [80 cm] circular or longer, or size to obtain gauge.

Notions

• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle 
• Scissors
• Tape measure
• Notions Bag for Supplies
• Leather tags
• Leather rivets
• Blocking Squares
• Blocking Pins
• Soaking Basin
• Eucalan Wool Wash

ABBREVIATIONS

K – Knit

K2tog – Knit Two Together

P – Purl

Pm – Place Marker

RS – Right Side

Sk2p – Slip, Knit 2 Together, Pass (see Special Stitches)

Skp – Slip, Knit, Pass (see Special Stitches)

Slm – Slip Marker

St(s) – Stitch(es)

WS – Wrong Side

Yo – Yarn Over

SPECIAL STITCHES

⭐ Slip, Knit, Pass (Skp): Slip next stitch knitwise, knit next stitch, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch.

⭐ Slip, Knit 2 Together, Pass (Sk2p): Slip next stitch knitwise, knit next 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch.

SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

Backwards Loop Cast-on Method

* Wrap yarn around left thumb from front to back and secure in palm with other fingers. Insert needle upward through strand on thumb. Slip loop from thumb onto needle, pulling yarn to tighten. Repeat from * for desired number of sts.

PATTERN STITCHES

Seed Stitch

Worked over an odd number of sts.

Row 1 (RS): K1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Row 2: Knit the purls and purl the knits.

Repeat Row 2 only for Seed st.

Seed st Chart: https://www.stitchfiddle.com/en/c/soqdhv-ap3dqx

Lace Pattern

Worked over a multiple of 8 sts plus 1.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2: Purl.

Row 3: K1 * yo, skp, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to end.

Row 4: Purl.

Row 5: K1, * k1, yo, skp, k1, k2tog, yo, k2; repeat from * to end.

Row 6: Purl.

Row 7: K1, * k2, yo, sk2p, yo, k3; repeat from * to end.

Row 8: Purl.

Repeat Rows 1-8 for Lace Pattern.

Lace Pattern Chart: https://www.stitchfiddle.com/en/c/soqdhm-1s7we

SCHEMATIC 

CHARTS

Charts for this shawl are only available in the ad-free pdf.

Seed st Chart

Lace Pattern Chart

Section 1 Chart

Section 2 Chart

Section 3 Chart

Wavy Border Chart

VIDEO TUTORIALS

• How to Knit the Traditional Garter Tab and Edging for a Shawl: https://youtu.be/jRsR5-W6GxU
• How to Knit: https://youtu.be/M3brKFKg5Yc
• How to Purl: https://youtu.be/LuDt-8jqh4g
• How to Yarn Over Increase: https://vimeo.com/1006393234/bf73dfd688?fl=ls&fe=ec
• Learn How to Knit Seed Stitch: https://youtu.be/fSNOUf_wSYM
• Learn How to Fix Mistakes in Seed Stitch: https://youtu.be/x3HJZc6zjM
• How to Knit Lace >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dmFleOAuH0 <<
• How to Tink >> https://youtu.be/c7Gud7k4Y8k <<
• How to Add a Lifeline: https://youtu.be/FiqYUE_aHAw
• How to Bury Ends: https://youtu.be/8_NBGUKjO-E 
• Wet Blocking Tips >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-0FRRfzC-c <<

CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

This shawl is worked:

• Top-down
• Beginning with a garter tab cast-on
• Increased along both edges and center
• Transitioning through multiple stitch pattern sections
• Finished with a lengthwise joined lace border

NOTES 

• Always slip stitches purlwise unless otherwise indicated.
• Place markers as instructed, as they are critical for maintaining stitch counts.
• Stitch count increases occur on designated rows.
• Lifelines are highly recommended at section transitions (see Video Tutorials).
• As stitch count grows, switch to longer circular needles for comfort.
• Border is worked lengthwise and joined as you go.

COLOR SEQUENCE

Here is the color sequence used in the sample; feel free to use this or stripe as you wish:

Rows 1-20: Fairy Tale (A)

Rows 21-40: Green Tea (C)

Rows 41-56: Velvet (B)

Rows 57-72: Sangria (D)

Rows 73-88: Velvet (B)

Rows 89-104: Sangria (D)

Rows 105-110: Fairy Tale (A)

Rows 111-128: Green Tea (C)

Rows 129-134: Fairy Tale (A)

Rows 135-152: Green Tea (C)

Rows 153-158: Fairy Tale (A)

159-168: Green Tea (C)Wavy Border: Sangria (D)

MARIPOSA CHIC KNIT TRIANGLE SHAWL PATTERN

BEGINNING TAB

Using Fairy Tale (A), cast on 3 sts, and knit 7 rows.

Turn work 90 degrees, pick up 3 sts along side edge, turn work 90 degrees, pick up 3 sts across cast on edge.

Count: 9 sts.

SECTION 2: TEXTURE

Section 2

Note: It is highly recommended to place a lifeline (see Video Tutorials) before beginning the next section.

Change to Velvet (B).

Row 41: K3, slm, * p1, k7; repeat from * to 1 st before marker, p1, slm, k1, slm, * p1, k7; repeat from * to 1 st before marker, p1, slm, k3. 

Row 42 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p1, * k1, p5, k1, p1; repeat from * to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p1, * k1, p5, k1, p1; repeat from * to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 93 sts (+4 sts)

Row 43: K3, slm, k1, * k2, p1, k3, p1, k1; repeat from * to 2 sts before marker, k2, slm, k1, slm, k1, * k2, p1, k3, p1, k1; repeat from * to 2 sts before marker, k2, slm, k3. 

Row 44: K3, slm, yo, p2, * p2, k1, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to 1 st before marker, p1, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p2, * p2, k1, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to 1 st before marker, p1, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 97 sts (+4 sts)

Row 45: K3, slm, k2, * [p1, k3] twice; repeat from * to 3 sts before marker, p1, k2, slm, k1, slm, k2, * [p1, k3] twice; repeat from * to 3 sts before marker, p1, k2, slm, k3. 

Row 46: K3, slm, yo, p3, * k1, p5, k1, p1; repeat from * to 2 sts before marker, p2, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p3, * k1, p5, k1, p1; repeat from * to 2 sts before marker, p2, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 101 sts (+4 sts)

Row 47: K3, slm, k3, * k2, p1, k3, p1, k1; repeat from * to 4 sts before marker, k4, slm, k1, slm, k3, * k2, p1, k3, p1, k1; repeat from * to 4 sts before marker, k4, slm,  k3.

Row 48: K3, slm, yo, p4, * p2, k1, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to 3 sts before marker, p3, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p4, * p2, k1, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to 3 sts before marker, p3, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 105 sts (+4 sts)

Row 49: K3, slm, k4, * k4, p1, k3; repeat from * to 5 sts before marker, k5, slm, k1, slm, k4, * k4, p1, k3; repeat from * to 5 sts before marker, k5, slm, k3.

Row 50: K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 109 sts (+4 sts)

Row 51: K3, slm, k to marker, slm, k1, slm, k to marker, slm, k3. 

Row 52: K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 113 sts (+4 sts)

Row 53: K3, slm, k to marker, slm, k1, slm, k to marker, slm, k3.

Row 54: K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 117 sts (+4 sts)

Row 55: K3, slm, k to marker, slm, k1, slm, k to marker, slm, k3.

Row 56: K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 121 sts (+4 sts)

Change to Sangria (D).

Rows 57-102: Repeat Rows 41-56 twice more, then repeat Rows 41-54 only once more.

Be sure to change to Velvet (B) after Row 72, and back to Sangria (D) after Row 88.
Count: 213 sts (+92 sts)

SECTION 3: LACE AND SEED

Section 3

Row 103 (RS): Knit.

Row 104 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 217 sts (+4 sts)

Change to Fairy Tale (A).

Row 105 (establish Lace Pattern, RS): K3, slm, k1, * yo, skp, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to marker, slm, k1, slm, k1, * yo, skp, k3, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to marker, slm, k3.

Row 106 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 221 sts (+4 sts)

Row 107 (RS): K3, slm, k1, * k2, yo, skp, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to 2 sts before marker, k2, slm, k1, slm, k1, * k2, yo, skp, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to 2 sts before marker, k2, slm, k3.

Row 108 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 225 sts (+4 sts)

Row 109 (RS): K3, slm, k2 * k3, yo, sk2p, yo, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts before marker, k3, slm, k1, slm, k2 * k3, yo, sk2p, yo, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts before marker, k3, slm, k3. 

Row 110 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 229 sts (+4 sts)

Change to Green Tea (C).

Row 111 (establish Seed st, RS): K3, slm, * k1, p1; repeat from * to 1 st before marker, k1, slm, k1, slm, * k1, p1; repeat from * to 1 st before marker k1, slm, k3. 

Row 112 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, work in established Seed st (purl the knits and knit the purls) to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, work in established Seed st to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 233 sts (+4 sts)

Rows 113 (RS): K3, slm, k1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, k1, slm, k1, slm, k1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, k1, slm, k3.

Rows 114 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, p1, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, p1, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 237 sts (+4 sts)

Row 115 (RS): K3, slm, work in established Seed st to marker, slm, k1, slm, work in established Seed st to marker, slm, k3.

Row 116 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, work in established Seed st to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, work in established Seed st to marker, yo, slm, k3.

Count: 241 sts (+4 sts)

Row 117 (RS): Knit.

Row 118 (incerase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.

Count: 245 sts (+4 sts)

Row 119 (RS): K3, slm, work in established Seed st to marker, slm, k1, slm, work in established Seed st to marker, slm, k3.

Row 120 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, work in established Seed st to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, work in established Seed st to marker, yo, slm, k3.

Count: 249 sts (+4 sts)

Rows 121 (RS): K3, slm, k1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, k1, slm, k1, slm, k1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, k1, slm, k3.

Rows 122 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, p1, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, p1, yo, slm, k3.

Count: 253 sts (+4 sts)

Row 123 (RS): K3, slm, work in established Seed st to marker, slm, k1, slm, work in established Seed st to marker, slm, k3.

Row 124 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, work in established Seed st to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, work in established Seed st to marker, yo, slm, k3.

Count: 257 sts (+4 sts)

Rows 125 (RS): K3, slm, k1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, k1, slm, k1, slm, k1, work in established Seed st to 1 st before marker, k1, slm, k3.

Row 126 (incerase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.

Count: 261 sts (+16 sts)

Rows 127-165: Repeat Rows 103-126 once more, then repeat Rows 103-117 only once more.

Be sure to change to Fairy Tale (A) after Row 128, then to Green Tea (C) after Row 134, then back to Fairy Tale (A) after Row 152, then back to Green Tea (C) after Row 158.

Count: 337 sts (+76 sts)

Continue with Green Tea.

Work 3 final rows in Stockinette st while continuing to increase as follows:

Row 166 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 341 sts (+4 sts)

Row 167 (RS): Knit.

Row 168 (increase row, WS): K3, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k1, slm, yo, p to marker, yo, slm, k3.
Count: 345 sts (+4 sts)

WAVY BORDER

Wavy Border is worked lengthwise over 13 sts and joined to the Shawl Body as you go using decreases. 

Wavy Border

Change to Sangria (D).

Cast on 13 additional sts using Backwards-Loop cast-on method (see Special Techniques).

Count: 13 edge sts

Count: 345 body sts

Row 1 (joining row, RS): K12, k2tog (1 st from cast on, 1 st from Shawl Body), turn work.

Count: 13 edge sts

Count: 344 body sts (-1 st)

Row 2 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. 

Row 3 (joining row, RS): K12, k2tog, turn work.

Count: 13 edge sts

Count: 343 body sts (-1 st)

Row 4 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. 

Row 5 (joining row, RS): K4, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, turn work.

Count: 15 edge sts (+2 sts)

Count: 342 body sts (-1 st)

Row 6 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. 

Row 7 (joining row, RS): K5, sk2p, k2, [yo, k2tog] twice, k2tog, turn work.

Count: 13 edge sts (-2 sts)

Count: 341 body sts (-1 st)

Row 8 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. 

Row 9 (joining row, RS): K4, skp, k2, [yo, k2tog] twice, k2tog, turn work. 

Count: 12 edge sts (-1 st)

Count: 340 body sts (-1 st)

Row 10 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. 

Row 11 (joining row, RS): K3, skp, k2, [yo, k2tog] twice, k2tog, turn work. 

Count: 11 edge sts (-1 st)

Count: 339 body sts (-1 st)

Row 12 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. 

Row 13 (joining row, RS): K2, skp, k2, [yo, k2tog] twice, k2tog, turn work. 

Count: 10 edge sts (-1 st)

Count: 338 body sts (-1 st)

Row 14 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. 

Row 15 (joining row, RS): K1, skp, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, turn work.
Count: 11 edge sts (+1 st)

Count: 337 body sts (-1 st)

Row 16 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts, k2. 

Row 17 (joining row, RS): K4, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, turn work.

Count: 13 edge sts (+2 st)

Count: 336 body sts (-1 st)

Repeat Rows 4-17 only until all Shawl Body sts have been worked into the edging.

Bind off all remaining sts. 

FINISHING

Weave in all loose ends.

Wash and Block

🧼 How to Block Your Knit Triangle Shawl

Blocking transforms this shawl from “fresh off the needles” into a beautifully shaped triangle with crisp stitch definition and smooth drape.

Since this pattern uses a superwash merino wool, I recommend wet blocking rather than aggressive steam blocking. Superwash fibers respond beautifully to soaking and careful shaping.

Here’s how:

1. Soak your shawl in lukewarm water with a wool wash for 15–20 minutes.
2. Gently squeeze out excess water — do not wring.
3. Roll in a towel to remove additional moisture.
4. Lay flat and shape into a clean triangle.
5. Pin the edges and border evenly to open up the lace and seed stitch sections.
6. Allow to dry completely before unpinning.

Blocking helps:

• Even out stitches
• Define the lace motifs
• Relax the seed stitch texture
• Improve overall drape

If you’re unsure which method to use, read my full guide:
👉 Blocking Made Easy with Tools

And if you're working specifically with superwash yarn, this comparison may help:
👉 Steam Blocking vs Wet Blocking for Superwash Yarn

🧵 Styling Your Triangle Shawl

One of my favorite things about triangle shawls is versatility:

• Wear it wrapped around your shoulders for warmth.
• Style it bandana-style for modern flair.
• Drape it loosely over a jacket for texture contrast.
• Use bold colors to elevate a neutral outfit.

This shape works year-round depending on fiber choice.

🧶 Explore More Free Knit Shawl Patterns

If you love this design, be sure to explore my full collection:

👉 Marly Bird Knit Shawl Patterns

You might also enjoy:

• Eowyn Cable Knit Shawl
• Make It Mine Shawl
• Pear Sorbet Shawlette
• Stellar Stripes Shawl
• Social Knitter Shawl
• Uptown Chic Shawl
• Crazy Stripes Crescent Shawl
• Free Knit Summer Shawl Patterns

💖 Love This Pattern?

Be sure to:

• Favorite it on Ravelry
• Add it to your queue
• Share your finished project

I absolutely love seeing your makes!

Love This Concentration Level?

If you enjoyed the focused challenge of Mariposa, you may love:

• Another “Shh! Be Quiet, I’m Knitting” Tournament of Stitches shawl
• The Stitch Switch Vol. 2 collection
• 2026 “Shh! Be Quiet” Shawl

With the full collection, you can mix and match stitch sections to create your own concentration-level shawl.

FAQ – Knit Triangle Shawl Pattern

Is this knit triangle shawl pattern free?

Yes. The full Mariposa pattern is available right here on this page… cast-on, stitch sections, applied border, the whole thing. If you’d rather knit from a clean printable copy, the ad-free PDF is available on Etsy, Shopify, and Ravelry.

Is this pattern beginner friendly?

No, this is an intermediate knit triangle shawl pattern. You’ll want to be comfortable with knit, purl, yarn-over increases, basic shaping, and reading written stitch patterns before you cast on. The four progressive stitch sections build skill as you go, but they do require focus… this is the original “Be Quiet, I’m Knitting” project for a reason.

Can I knit Mariposa in one color instead of multiple?

Absolutely. The original sample was knit in one color, and the texture really shines on a solid background. A multi-color version (like the photos here) lets each stitch section pop visually, but a single-color shawl shows off the textured stitch work in a more elegant, monochrome way. Both are gorgeous… pick what speaks to you.

Is this a good winter shawl?

Yes. The worsted weight yarn (CYCA #4) creates a warm, cushy fabric that’s ideal for layering over jackets, sweaters, or wraps. The wide triangle shape means you can wrap it close around your shoulders for warmth or drape it open for a bigger statement piece. It’s the kind of shawl that lives on the back of your reading chair from October to April.

Can I make Mariposa larger?

Yes. The simplest way to size up is to repeat additional body sections before beginning the applied border. Just keep in mind you’ll need extra yarn for both the larger body AND the longer border that has to wrap around the bigger triangle. Plan for at least one extra skein per added body repeat.

Does gauge matter if I don’t care about exact size?

Less critically… but yardage and border fit still depend on gauge. If you knit looser than the suggested gauge you’ll need more yarn than the pattern calls for, and a too-loose gauge can make the applied border ripple instead of lying flat. A quick gauge swatch will save you headaches later, even if you’re not chasing exact dimensions.

Can I substitute a non-merino yarn?

Yes, but choose a yarn with good stitch definition. The textured stitch sections are the star of this shawl, and a yarn that’s too soft or too fuzzy will hide the detail you worked so hard to knit. Stick to smooth worsted weight wool or wool blends… Malabrigo Rios, Berroco Ultra Wool, Cascade 220 Superwash, and Knit Picks Swish Worsted are all excellent substitutes for the discontinued Chic Sheep yarn.

Final Thoughts 💕

Mariposa isn’t just a shawl.

It’s a milestone.

It’s focused.
It’s textured.
It’s warm.
It’s intentional.

It asks for your attention.
It rewards you with beauty.

Now grab your needles.

Be quiet.

And knit. 🦋💕

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird