8 Free Shark Crochet Patterns for Shark Week

July 24, 2026 By admin Leave a Comment

If you didn't know already this is the annual Shark Week over on the Discovery Channel. All week long they have amazing shows about sharks. To honor this week, as many of you LOVE to watch this week, I have pulled together 8 FREE Shark Crochet Patterns for Shark Week.

⚡ Quick Answer:

This roundup collects 8 free crochet shark patterns perfect for Shark Week — including shark amigurumi stuffed animals, shark hats, a shark blanket, a shark bag, a shark scrubby puppet, and a shark granny square. All patterns are free. Most work great in worsted weight grey acrylic. Scroll down for the full collection plus a FAQ on yarn, hook sizes, and beginner tips.

📝 Updated July 2026 for Shark Week — links verified, FAQ expanded.

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20+ FREE Christmas Crochet Garland Patterns

July 6, 2026 By admin Leave a Comment

Looking for free Christmas crochet garland patterns to make your home feel extra magical this holiday season? This roundup has 20+ beautiful patterns… from quick snowflake and pom-pom garlands to mini Christmas trees, light bulb amigurumi, holiday houses, and even advent stocking garlands. Whether you have a free afternoon or a whole crafty weekend, there's a perfect handmade garland here for every skill level! 🎄

Hey, BiCrafty Bestie! 💛 When it comes to Christmas decorating, handmade garlands are my absolute favorite… every little motif you stitch is a piece of YOU hanging on the mantel or staircase railing this holiday season! I've gathered the very best free Christmas crochet garland patterns I could find… plus a whole section for my knitting besties… and I just added a fresh batch of brand new finds for 2025. Start early and you'll have a gorgeous collection of handmade holiday decor ready to go before December arrives. Let's get crafting! 🎄

✨ In a hurry? Jump straight to the free garland patterns → Or stick with me for a minute… I'm sharing my best tips on yarn choices, garland lengths, and how to hang everything so your handmade decor looks like it came straight out of a magazine!

🧶 Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through them I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you… and it helps support free patterns and content from my yarn-loving heart 💛 See my privacy policy here.

🎅 ❄ 🎄 ❄ 🎁

Ho Ho Ho! Only

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Days

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Hours

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Mins

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Secs

Until Christmas Morning! 🎄

🤴 Start those handmade gifts now — Santa's watching! 🎅

Why Handmade Christmas Garland Is Worth Every Stitch

Store-bought garland is fine... but a crochet Christmas garland becomes part of your family's story. Every December when you unpack it, you'll remember the holiday movie you watched while stitching those little snowflakes, or the year your kiddo picked the colors for the light bulb strand. Handmade garlands are also one of the smartest holiday projects for yarn lovers... they're modular (small motifs, big payoff!), they're wonderful stash busters, and unlike plastic tinsel, they last for decades instead of one season. 💛

They're also the perfect low-pressure project for the busy holiday season. You can stitch one snowman while dinner is in the oven, a couple of snowflakes during carpool line, and before you know it you've got a full mantel garland. And here's my favorite part... the motifs pull double duty! Extra trees and snowflakes make sweet gift toppers, package ties, and standalone ornaments. One pattern, so many ways to use it. 🎁

Choosing the Best Yarn for Christmas Garland

Here's my quick rule of thumb: match the yarn to the vibe you want. For bright, cheerful motif garlands (trees, snowmen, light bulbs), a worsted weight acrylic is your best friend... it holds its shape, survives being packed away year after year, and comes in every Christmas color under the sun. For delicate, lacy snowflake garlands, reach for a fingering or crochet thread weight cotton... it gives you those crisp points that look like actual snowflakes. And if you want a little magic? Hold a strand of metallic or sparkle yarn along with your main yarn... instant twinkle, no glitter mess! ✨

One more tip from me to you... garland is the BEST stash-busting project of the entire year. Most motifs only need 10 to 20 yards of yarn, so all those little balls of red, green, and white left over from other projects finally get their moment to shine. Before you buy anything new, shop your stash first! 🧶

How Long Should Your Christmas Garland Be?

This is the question I get asked the most, so let's talk numbers! For a mantel, measure the width and multiply by about 1.5 so you have enough for those pretty swoops and drapes... most mantels need a garland in the 8 to 10 foot range. For a staircase railing, measure the full length of the banister and add roughly 2 extra feet for every swag you want. And for the Christmas tree, decorators often recommend several feet of garland per foot of tree height for a full wrapped look... but honestly? A single 6-foot handmade strand woven through the front branches makes a gorgeous statement all on its own. 🎄

The beauty of crochet garland is that YOU control the length... just keep adding motifs until it's exactly right for your space. My advice: string your motifs on the cord loosely first, hang it up, adjust the spacing, and only then secure everything in place. Measure twice, string once! 😉

FREE Christmas Crochet Garland:

Let's kick things off with the classics! This first batch of free crochet garland patterns comes from Red Heart and Yarnspirations... which means they're professionally written, well-tested, and designed by names you know and trust. From lacy snowflakes to cheerful snowmen to retro light bulbs, there's a style here for every mantel, tree, and staircase. Grab your hook and let's go! 🧶

❄️ Snowflake Garland (White) — Red Heart / Yarnspirations FREE

White crochet snowflake garland draped over a mantel, decorated with green foliage and red candles. -Marly Bird

That classic winter-white snowflake garland draped over a mantel... is there anything more timeless? Designed by Nancy Anderson, each delicate snowflake is light and lacy and strings together so beautifully. If you love that crisp, clean, elegant holiday look, this one is your perfect match!

👉 Get the free pattern →

⛄ Snowman Garland — Red Heart / Yarnspirations FREE

Colorful snowman garland made of yarn with crochet details, festive gifts, and decorative ornaments. -Marly Bird

These cheerful little snowmen by Rebecca J. Venton are SO full of personality! Each one has just enough quirky detail to make the whole garland feel totally handmade with love. String them across your mantel and watch everyone smile when they walk in the room. 😊

👉 Get the free pattern →

🎅 Santa's Wardrobe Garland — Red Heart / Yarnspirations FREE

Colorful garland featuring crochet Santa outfits, stockings, and bags, displayed above festive wrapped gifts. -Marly Bird

Mini Santa suits, stockings, and toy bags all strung together — this garland is like a tiny Christmas closet come to life! Designed by Rebecca J. Venton, it has so much character and detail that guests always stop to look at it up close. Totally worth every single stitch! 🎁

👉 Get the free pattern →

🎈 Pompom Garland — Red Heart / Yarnspirations FREE

Colorful pompom garland in blue, green, and white, displayed on a wooden surface with vintage spools and jars. -Marly Bird

Don't underestimate the humble pompom! Becky Bishop's colorful design turns simple pompoms into a festive garland that works with ANY holiday color scheme. It's also one of the most beginner-friendly options in this entire roundup — perfect for your very first garland make! 🧶

👉 Get the free pattern →

❄️ Crochet Snowflake Garland — Red Heart / Yarnspirations FREE

Crochet snowflake garland draped on a decorated Christmas tree, featuring white snowflakes with intricate detailing. -Marly Bird

Delicate crocheted snowflakes strung together on a chain... this one drapes so beautifully on a Christmas tree! The intricate pattern on each snowflake makes it look far more impressive than the effort it actually takes. A timeless classic that never goes out of style!

👉 Get the free pattern →

🎆 Snowflake Garland (Colorful) — Red Heart / Yarnspirations FREE

Crochet snowflake garland in red, white, and blue hanging on a banister, festive winter decor. -Marly Bird

Proof that snowflakes don't have to be white to be beautiful! This bold, colorful version by Nancy Anderson shows you how unexpected color combos can take a classic snowflake garland somewhere completely your own. So striking hung along a banister or staircase railing! ✨

👉 Get the free pattern →

🌀 Garland of Pinwheels — Red Heart / Yarnspirations FREE

Crochet garland featuring red and green pinwheel motifs, adorned with tassels, draped among pine branches and lights. -Marly Bird

A bit unexpected — and that's exactly what makes it so fun! Mary Jane Protus designed these cheerful red and green pinwheels with tassels that look gorgeous draped among pine branches. If you want a garland that feels a little different from everyone else's... this is your pick! 🌿

👉 Get the free pattern →

💡 Holiday Light Bulb Garland — Red Heart / Yarnspirations FREE

Snowman wearing a red hat and green scarf, decorated with colorful crocheted light bulb garland. -Marly Bird

Those retro-style colored light bulbs... SO fun to crochet AND to display! Designed by Kristen Stoltzfus, this garland captures that nostalgic glow of vintage Christmas lights — no electricity required. Each little bulb is quick to make, and the whole strand comes together before you know it! 💡

👉 Get the free pattern →

🌲 Christmas Tree Garland — Red Heart / Yarnspirations FREE

Crocheted garland in green with red accents adorning a decorated Christmas tree. -Marly Bird

Simple, classic, and so perfectly Christmas — Bonnie Barker's mini tree garland is one of those patterns you'll make every single year. The green with red accents is timeless, and the trees work up quickly enough that you could make a long, swooping mantel garland in just a weekend. A total crowd-pleaser! 🎄

👉 Get the free pattern →

There's something so special about handmade garlands… every little motif you stitch is a piece of you hanging on the mantel this Christmas! These projects are quick to work up, totally customizable, and honestly some of the most satisfying makes of the whole holiday season. Whether you have an afternoon or a whole weekend, you can create something truly beautiful. 🎄

🎄 More Free Crochet Christmas Garland Patterns

Now let's show some love to the indie designers! ❤️ Some of the most creative, unique garland patterns out there come from independent crochet bloggers... and this next batch proves it. Puff-stitch trees, personalized word buntings, tiny snow-covered houses, eco-friendly tinsel... these patterns bring fresh ideas you won't find anywhere else. When you make one of these, leave the designer a comment or share your finished garland with them... it means the world to indie pattern makers!

🧤 Quick Mini Mitten Garland — Marly Bird FREE

Quick Mini Mitten Garland - free crochet garland pattern by Marly Bird - Marly Bird

I had to include one of my own, and this one holds a special place in my heart! 🧡 These teeny-tiny crocheted mittens are SO adorable strung together on a garland cord... they work up in a flash using less than 100 yards of yarn total, which makes them the ultimate stash-buster for all those holiday yarn scraps. The pattern uses basic half double crochet and double crochet stitches, so it's completely beginner-friendly — and there's even a YouTube video where I walk you through every step. Make them in classic Christmas red and green, or pick your own color story... they look gorgeous in ANY combination!

👉 Get the free pattern →

🌲 Crochet Christmas Tree Garland — Desert Blossom Crafts FREE

Mini puff-stitch trees strung together on a chain… this one is so cute and so customizable! You can mix in stars, snowflakes, or snowmen to match your holiday décor, and each little tree works up quickly so you'll have a full garland before you know it.

👉 Get the free pattern →

🎉 Christmas Joy Bunting — Thoresby Cottage FREE

How adorable is this pennant-style bunting spelling out "JOY" with little holly leaves and berry appliqués?! You can actually adjust the length to spell out any word you want… it could be your kids' names, "NOEL," or whatever feels most like home to you. Such a personal and festive touch!

👉 Get the free pattern →

🌿 Mini Christmas Tree Garland — Hooked On Patterns FREE

These rustic mini trees have such a charming, cozy cottage feel… perfect for that natural, handcrafted vibe in your home. The pattern is free to read on the blog, and if you want an ad-free PDF it's available for a small fee. A great worsted weight project to use up your green yarn stash!

👉 Get the free pattern →

💡 Christmas Light Amigurumi Garland — Raffamusa Designs FREE

Oh, this one is SO fun! You crochet each little light bulb individually in amigurumi style and then string them all together… the result looks just like a strand of old-fashioned Christmas lights. It also doubles as the most adorable advent countdown garland if you make 24 of them!

👉 Get the free pattern →

🎄 Christmas Tree Garland (with Video!) — Lion Brand FREE

Lion Brand comes in clutch with this one — and it includes a full YouTube video tutorial, which is perfect if you're a visual learner or just getting started with garland making! The mini trees come together quickly and look gorgeous strung across a mantel or staircase.

👉 Get the free pattern →

✨ Holiday Garland — Lion Brand FREE

If you love a more delicate, vintage-inspired look, this fine-weight holiday garland is calling your name… it has that heirloom feel that makes it look like it's been in your family for years. Elegant but totally achievable!

👉 Get the free pattern →

💡 Christmas Lights Garland — Virkadia FREE

Free crochet Christmas lights garland pattern with colorful light bulbs in red, green, yellow and blue yarn

Get that cozy old-fashioned holiday feel with these crocheted light bulbs strung into a garland... each one is a little pop of color, and you can mix and match whatever shades feel most like Christmas to you! This is such a fun stash-busting project for all those small bits of holiday-colored yarn you've been saving up. 💡

👉 Get the free pattern →

🌿 Eco-Friendly Crochet Tinsel Garland — byGoldenberry FREE

Tired of plastic tinsel ending up in the landfill year after year? This gorgeous loop stitch garland is your sustainable answer... it's fluffy and full just like real tinsel, but you make it with yarn you love and can keep forever. The pattern is adjustable in length so you can make it exactly as long as you need... mantel length, tree garland, staircase wrap, you name it. Such a brilliant idea! 🌿

👉 Get the free pattern →

🏠 Christmas House Garland — Yarn Gems FREE

How sweet is this?! Tiny crocheted little houses... complete with windows and snow-covered rooftops... all strung together to make the most charming garland you've ever seen. This one is beginner-friendly AND ridiculously cute. Use it on the mantel, drape it on the Christmas tree, or wrap it around a gift. Such a fresh, unique take on holiday garland decor! 🏡

👉 Get the free pattern →

⛄ Snowmen, Stockings & Puddings Garland — Prima / Birch Knits FREE

If you want a garland that tells the whole Christmas story in miniature... this is it! Crocheted snowmen, tiny stockings, and festive Christmas puddings all strung together on one cheerful garland. The variety of motifs makes this one really special... and it's designed by Birch Knits for Prima magazine, so you know the instructions are beautifully written and well-tested. 🎁

👉 Get the free pattern →

✨ Paid Garland Patterns Worth It

Sometimes a little investment in a premium pattern is totally worth it for that extra level of detail and polish. These paid options are fan favorites and come with beautifully written instructions and photos to guide you every step of the way. Plus, buying a paid pattern directly supports an independent designer... which keeps all those wonderful free patterns coming, too! 💛

⭐ Sparkly Crochet Star Garland / Christmas Bunting PAID

This sparkly star garland PDF comes with full written instructions and step-by-step photos so you can get those perfect points every time. It's the kind of project that genuinely stops people in their tracks when they see it hanging on your mantel… definitely a showstopper!

👉 Get the pattern on Etsy →

🔔 Crochet Christmas Tree Lights Garland PAID

These ornament-style bells are so elegant and classic… the kind of garland you'll pull out year after year and feel so proud of. This seller has Star Seller status on Etsy with 5-star reviews, so you know you're getting a well-written, well-tested pattern!

👉 Get the pattern on Etsy →

🧦 Mini Stocking Christmas Advent Garland PAID

Two projects in one! You make 24 adorable mini stockings (in both plain AND striped versions) and string them together as an advent calendar garland… how genius is that?! This Star Seller pattern is incredibly detailed and would make the most magical holiday tradition for your family.

👉 Get the pattern on Etsy →

Crocheted snowman garland hanging above a fireplace mantel — white snowmen with brown hats and scarves

⛄ Snowman Crochet Garland Pattern PAID

Those rustic crocheted snowmen strung along a garland cord... honestly one of the most charming holiday makes I've seen! This Star Seller pattern from TheKnottedNestShop is a full 16-page PDF with a step-by-step photo tutorial AND an ad-free quick-print version — so you know exactly what you're getting. The snowmen have so much personality with their little hats and scarves, and the pattern covers everything from individual ornaments to full garland assembly. Hang them over the mantel and watch everyone come in for a closer look. A winter decor piece you'll reach for year after year! ⛄

👉 Get the pattern on Etsy →

Colorful crochet granny stitch bauble bunting with yarn tassels hanging from a green cord — PDF pattern by TheMayfieldMakery

🎄 Crochet Granny Stitch Bauble Bunting PAID

If granny squares are your love language, THIS is the bunting for you! TheMayfieldMakery (an Etsy's Pick Star Seller with glowing 5-star reviews) designed these gorgeous round bauble ornaments using the granny stitch... each one finished with cheerful yarn tassels. Use them as individual decorations OR string them all together into a full bunting — the pattern covers both! Comes in both US and UK crochet terms with step-by-step photos. Use whatever scrap colors make you happy... the more colorful the better! Perfect for stringing across windows, mantelpieces, and anywhere you want a pop of handmade holiday cheer. 🎨

👉 Get the pattern on Etsy →

👉 See all 25 Days of Christmas in July patterns →

A festive Christmas tree with crochet ornaments, gifts below, sparkling stars, and an amigurumi polar bear holding a star on top.

How to Hang, Display, and Store Your Crochet Garland

You put all that love into your garland... let's make sure it hangs beautifully! My go-to trick is removable adhesive hooks placed just under the mantel edge or along the wall... they hold the garland securely without damaging paint or wood. Let the garland drape naturally in gentle swags rather than pulling it tight (crochet stretches!), and if your snowflakes or stars are curling, give them a quick blocking with a little spray starch or fabric stiffener... it makes ALL the difference in getting those crisp, professional-looking points. ❄️

When the season wraps up, take two extra minutes to store your garland the right way and it'll look brand new next December. Wrap it loosely around a piece of cardboard or a pool noodle (no tangles, no crushed motifs!), tuck it into a bin away from moisture, and if you used any wool, toss in a cedar block or lavender sachet. Future you will be SO glad you did! 🎄

Also on the Blog:

Once you catch the garland-making bug (and trust me, you will!), there's a whole world of quick holiday makes waiting for you. These posts pair perfectly with everything in this roundup... mix and match motifs, ornaments, and garlands for a mantel that's completely, uniquely YOU. 💛

🎄 Final Thoughts — Your Handmade Holiday Garland Journey

If you only take one thing away from this roundup, let it be this: the best crochet garland is the one YOU make. It doesn't have to be the most elaborate design or the most expensive yarn... it just has to be yours. Whether you stitch up a quick strand of mini mittens for your very first garland ever, or commit to a full light bulb amigurumi advent countdown, every single motif you make adds something beautiful and irreplaceable to your home. 💛

I'd love to know which garland you're making first! Drop a comment below... are you going classic snowflakes, charming snowmen, granny stitch baubles, or jumping straight into a full advent garland? And if you've already made one of these patterns, please share it in the BiCrafty Community Facebook Group — seeing your handmade holiday creations truly makes my day! 🧶

Frequently Asked Questions

Still have questions before you pick up your hook? These are the ones I hear most often from my BiCrafty Besties... and I've got answers for every single one! 💛

What yarn is best for crochet Christmas garlands?

So here's the thing... it really depends on the look you're going for! For bright, durable garlands that can handle being packed away and pulled out year after year, a worsted weight acrylic is your best friend... it holds its shape, washes beautifully, and comes in every Christmas color imaginable. For delicate snowflake-style garlands, a fingering weight cotton gives you that crisp, lacy look. And for the eco-friendly tinsel garland? Any soft worsted from your stash works perfectly! 🧶

How long does it take to crochet a Christmas garland?

Oh, I totally get that holiday time crunch! The good news is most of these garlands are made in modular pieces... you crochet individual motifs (trees, snowflakes, light bulbs) and then string them all together at the end. You can easily knock out a handful of motifs in one evening while watching your favorite holiday movie, and by the end of the week you've got a full garland. Start in early November and you'll be done with plenty of time to spare! 🎄

Can beginners make crochet Christmas garlands?

Absolutely yes! Garlands are honestly one of the BEST beginner projects because the individual pieces are so small... if you make a mistake on one little snowflake, you just set it aside and start a new one. No big commitment, lots of repetition (which helps you improve fast!), and you end up with beautiful handmade decor. The pom-pom garland and the mini Christmas tree garlands are especially beginner-friendly... perfect starting points! 🌟

How do I stiffen crochet snowflakes for garland?

This is the secret to those magazine-worthy snowflakes! Pin each snowflake out on a blocking mat (or a towel over cardboard), pulling the points nice and straight. Then apply spray starch, liquid fabric stiffener, or even a simple mix of white glue and water... let them dry completely before unpinning. The stiffening keeps every point crisp so your snowflakes hang beautifully instead of curling. Trust me, this one step takes your garland from homemade to handmade-gorgeous! ❄️

How do I hang crochet garland without damaging my mantel or walls?

Removable adhesive hooks are your best friend here... place them just under the lip of the mantel where they won't show, and let the garland swag gently between them. For staircases, soft floral wire or ribbon ties loop right around the balusters with zero damage. One thing to avoid: tape directly on the yarn... it can pull fibers and leave residue. Yarn-safe and wall-safe... that's the goal! 😊

Are all the garland patterns on this page really free?

Yes! Every pattern marked FREE is genuinely free to access online... just click the link and start hooking. The "Paid Garland Patterns Worth It" section at the bottom features a few Etsy patterns that are well worth a small investment if you want extra detail, step-by-step photos, or an ad-free PDF to save and print. But you've got 20+ completely free options right here to get you started! 🎁

What's the difference between a crochet garland and a bunting?

Great question! A garland is usually made of repeated 3D motifs... like little trees, snowflakes, or light bulbs... strung on a cord or chain. A bunting (like the "JOY" bunting in this roundup) is made of flat pennant triangles or banner shapes. Both are gorgeous handmade holiday decor, just with slightly different vibes... garlands feel lush and dimensional, buntings feel playful and graphic. Honestly? Why not make one of each this year! 😄

Can I use these crochet garland patterns to decorate my Christmas tree?

Yes, and they look absolutely stunning draped around a Christmas tree! The snowflake garlands, star garlands, and light bulb amigurumi garlands especially look magical woven through the branches. Just make sure you're using a lightweight yarn so the garland drapes gracefully and doesn't weigh down your branches. Bonus tip: the individual mini motifs (pom-poms, snowflakes, tiny trees) also double beautifully as standalone ornaments! 🌲

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

Firecracker Felted Crochet Bag – Patriotic Crochet…

July 2, 2026 By admin 1 Comment

📝 Updated July 2, 2026: This post has been expanded with new western and cowgirl colorway ideas, a complete step-by-step felting guide, and additional pattern links for more felted bag inspiration.

Ignite Your Crochet Passion with the Firecracker Bag! Are you ready for a crochet project that's as fun to make as it is to show off? I'm excited to share the pattern for the Firecracker Crochet Felted Bag – a fabulous accessory that's perfect for patriotic holidays or any day you want a pop of color (or red, white, and blue). Crochet felting combines the beauty of crochet with the unique texture of felting, and this bag is sure to turn heads!

Firecracker felted crochet purse - free pattern - red, white and blue eyelash yarn is worked together with 100% wool and felted to make a sizeable handbag - decorated with a beaded handle for a little something extra - marly bird

Firecracker felted crochet bag in red, white, and blue with rhinestone beaded handle — free pattern by Marly Bird

Disclaimer, Affiliate Links Used in this post so I can make some money and give you a pattern for FREE

The Firecracker Crochet Felted Bag: A Burst of Color and Texture

This isn't just any crochet bag; it's a statement piece that celebrates bold colors and textures. With its vibrant red, white, and blue colors, and the unique felted texture combined with the eyelash yarn, the Firecracker Bag is a conversation starter. Perfect for beginners and seasoned crocheters alike, this pattern will guide you through each step to create a bag that's both practical and patriotic.

You will most certainly get noticed with this crochet handbag by your side on the 4th of July. The bomb-burst in the sky will not be the only fireworks at the picnic!

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Free Crochet Oversized Sweater Pattern — My Pumpkin Spice Sweater Gets a Makeover

June 17, 2026 By admin Leave a Comment

Originally published October 2020 · Updated June 2026 with new photos, yarn alternatives for discontinued Bernat Plentiful, and expanded step-by-step guidance throughout.

The Pumpkin Spice Cropped Crochet Sweater is a free beginner mosaic crochet sweater pattern by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula. This Free Crochet Oversized Sweater Pattern features top-down construction, beginner-friendly colorwork at the hem, and six sizes from XS to 3X with finished busts from 33.5″ to 61.5″. The complete free pattern is right here on this page.

Marly Bird wearing the Pumpkin Spice mosaic crochet cropped sweater... free beginner crochet colorwork sweater pattern

Okay, real talk first: Bernat Plentiful is gone and I'm still not over it. (I'm fine. I'm totally fine.) It was the perfect yarn for this sweater and it's discontinued… and that genuinely stings. Good news: I've put together a full yarn section with five beautiful alternatives. You are not stuck. Scroll down and I'll walk you through everything.

Marly Bird wearing the Pumpkin Spice mosaic crochet cropped sweater... free beginner crochet colorwork sweater pattern by Marly Bird

Heads up, friend… this post contains affiliate links. If you click through and buy something, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. It helps keep free patterns like this one coming to the blog, and I only recommend things I genuinely love with my yarn-loving heart. 🧶

What You Will Love About This Sweater 💖

Mosaic colorwork that looks complex but uses ONE color per round.

Here's the secret: you're never juggling two yarns at the same time. Color A does its round, Color B does its round, and the pattern emerges like magic from how the stitches interact. (Yes, really. That's it. That's the whole technique. 🤫)

Top-down construction… you never have to seam a body.

The yoke grows naturally as you work in the round, then the front, back, and sleeve sections separate cleanly… no armhole math, no trying to match up seams across three different pieces. Each step makes complete sense when you're in it. (I say this every time. It keeps being true.)

Six sizes, XS through 3X, with 6–9 inches of ease built in.

The relaxed, drapey silhouette is intentional… this is a sweater that's supposed to be roomy 😍. (Just check the finished bust measurements before picking your size… the increments are bigger than usual.)

Bulky yarn means this sweater moves FAST.

Bulky yarn + weekend = sweater. Do the math. 😄 You can see real progress with every single round, and most crocheters are genuinely surprised by how quickly this one comes together. (Spoiler: you'll be wearing it before you expect to.)

The full pattern is free on this blog, always.

To access the complete pattern, you’ll just need to log in with Grow, which is completely free. This helps keep the pattern available here on the blog while giving you an easy way to save, access, and enjoy the content. (Prefer a clean, printable version with no ads or login? You can purchase the ad-free PDF on Ravelry.)

Co-designed with Robyn Chachula, my best friend and co-owner of MarlyBird.com.

Robyn is one of the most talented crochet designers I know, and when we collaborate, we push each other to do something neither of us would have done alone. This sweater is the proof 💛. (Also: when your best friend is a genius crochet designer, you make things like this.)

Quick Pattern Overview

🧵 Yarn: Bulky #5 weight, approximately 952 yards Color A (main) + 80 (100, 120, 140, 160, 180) yards Color B (accent) depending on size. The original yarn, Bernat Plentiful, is discontinued… see the full yarn section below for five great alternatives!

🪝 Hook: US K/10.5 (6.5mm)… or whatever size you need to match gauge. Gauge is always the boss, especially for garments.

📐 Gauge: 10 esc and 8 rows = 4″. Please, please check your gauge before casting on for a sweater… it genuinely matters here.

📏 Sizes: XS, S, M/L, XL, 2X, 3X. Sizes run in 5.5-inch increments… that's larger than the standard 4″ range, so be sure to check the finished bust measurement rather than just going by the size label.

📏 Finished Bust: 33.5 (39.25, 44.75, 50.5, 56, 61.5)”

🎯 Skill Level: Advanced Beginner. Some experience working in the round is helpful but not required… the pattern walks you through every step.

⏱️ Time: Weekend project for most sizes. Bulky yarn means faster progress than you'd expect… many crocheters finish the body in a single session.

📏 Sizing Note:

Sizes go in 5.5″ increments… that's a bigger jump than most patterns. Check the finished bust measurement before picking your size. The sweater has 6-9″ of ease built in, so it's designed to be roomy… you can also go down a size for a closer fit.

Find This Pattern on Ravelry 🧶

The complete pattern is always free right here on the blog… no gates, no tricks. But if you'd rather have a clean, beautifully formatted, ad-free PDF you can print and take to your craft room, I've got you! The PDF includes all pattern instructions, the mosaic chart, the stitch diagrams, and the schematic in one tidy document that's easy to follow whether you're curled up on the couch or working at your local yarn shop. Grab it from any of the links below!

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Never Crocheted a Garment? This Is Your Sweater. 🧶

“I've never crocheted a garment before.” Good. Start here. We're talking flat rectangular panels and a top-down yoke that grows naturally round by round… no armhole math, no complicated seaming, no puzzles to solve on your own. I walk you through every single step in the pattern below. This is genuinely the sweater that turns “I could never make a sweater” into “wait… I just made a sweater.” 🙌

“Mosaic sounds really advanced.” I hear this all the time, and I promise… it's not what you think. You only ever use one color per round. Color A does its round all the way around, Color B does its round all the way around, and the colorwork magic happens automatically from how the stitches interact. One color at a time. That's really all it is. 🤫 If you can single crochet, you can do this.

“I'm not sure I'll actually finish it.” Bulky yarn is the cure for the unfinished project pile. This sweater works up so much faster than you'd expect… one solid weekend of crocheting and you could have the entire body done 🙌. The mosaic section is only about four inches, and then it's sleeves and finishing. This is genuinely not the pattern that sits in your WIP basket forever.

“Will it actually fit me?” The oversized, cropped design is forgiving by intention… you're not chasing a precise fit, you're going for a relaxed, drapey look that works beautifully across a lot of different body types. Check the finished bust measurements rather than just grabbing your usual size, since sizing runs in 5.5-inch increments. Find the finished bust with a comfortable amount of ease over your own measurements… and that's your size.

“What yarn do I use now that Bernat Plentiful is gone?” You are completely covered. Scroll down to the full Yarn Situation section for five specific alternatives with notes on how each affects the mosaic look. Short version: brushed or fuzzy yarn = soft, dreamy mosaic effect 😍. Smooth yarn = bold, graphic lines. Both are gorgeous. Both are totally achievable.

Blocking Tips for Your Pumpkin Spice Sweater 🌊

Please block this sweater. Please. I know it looks finished right off the hook… but blocking is what takes it from “handmade” to “where did you buy that?” 🙌

Wet blocking is the move for this one. Fill a basin with lukewarm water, submerge the sweater, and let it soak for 10–15 minutes. Don't wring it out — gently press the water out, then roll it in a towel to absorb the excess.

Lay it flat on a blocking mat, pin it to your schematic measurements, and let it dry completely. Overnight. Don't rush it.

With a mohair-look yarn especially, blocking is transformative. The fibers bloom and soften, the mosaic stitches relax and pop, and the drape goes from “stiff” to “dreamy.” It's genuinely worth the wait. ✨

🎓 Designer Tip:

Pin the sweater to the FINISHED measurements on your schematic, not the measurements you want it to be. Blocking can stretch fabric but it can't shrink it. Check your schematic numbers, pin to those, and let the yarn settle where it wants to live.

Marly Bird in the refreshed Pumpkin Spice Cropped Crochet Sweater... free beginner mosaic crochet pattern

What Is Mosaic Crochet? 🎨

Mosaic crochet is one of those techniques that stops people mid-scroll. You see a sweater with this gorgeous geometric, woven-looking pattern and immediately think “that must be SO complicated.” Here's the thing: it's not. One color per round. Color A works its complete round, you drop it, pick up Color B, and Color B works its complete round. That's the entire system 🤯. You never hold two yarns at once. You never carry a color across the back of your work. Just… one color at a time.

The colorwork magic comes from a simple, clever trick: some stitches in a given round are worked into the row below… those are the “hdc in next st 1 row below” instructions you'll see in the mosaic section. When Color A leaves little stitches visible, and Color B comes along and works around them… the contrast creates the visual pattern. It's an optical illusion built one stitch at a time 😍. It looks complex from across the room and surprisingly approachable from inside the pattern.

Mosaic is also perfect for a first colorwork garment because you're only ever dealing with one yarn at a time. Your tension can't go haywire, there's nothing complex to track across a row, and if you lose your place… you can look at the fabric and see exactly where you are. The stitches tell the story. And in this sweater, the mosaic section is only about four inches of the total garment 🧶… just enough to fall in love with the technique without feeling overwhelmed.

Here's the honest secret: the chart does all the thinking for you. You're not memorizing a complicated stitch sequence… you're following a visual map where each square tells you exactly what to do. The chart is in the Stitch Diagrams section below, and once you match what you're crocheting to what you see on it, that famous “click” moment happens fast. First-time mosaic crocheters regularly tell me it changed how they felt about colorwork entirely… and I love that for every single one of them. 🧶

🎨 More Mosaic Crochet Patterns from Marly Bird

Free Mosaic Crochet Blanket — the perfect mosaic starter project
Mallow Mosaic Crochet Hat — practice mosaic in hat form before tackling a sweater
Mosaic Tile Crochet Blanket — geometric mosaic for home decor

Collage showing colorful knit and crochet mosaic stitch projects: hats, scarves, gloves, and textured decor squares.

The Yarn Situation: Bernat Plentiful Is Gone 🥺

Bernat Plentiful is discontinued and I'm not going to pretend that doesn't sting a little. (I'm fine. I'm totally fine.) It was a bulky (#5) weight yarn with a brushed, slightly bouclé texture that mimicked the look of mohair without the mohair price… gorgeous self-striping colorways, extraordinary yardage at roughly 952 yards per skein, and a 60% acrylic / 26% wool / 14% polyester blend that gave it warmth and drape while staying machine-friendly. One skein made the entire body of this sweater with plenty to spare. It was discontinued around 2021–2022 and crafters across every platform are still mourning it. Valid.

Here's what matters for your substitute: the fuzzy, brushed quality of Bernat Plentiful is what gives this sweater's mosaic its soft, impressionist, watercolor-wash look. The fibers from each color slightly blend at the edges, softening the mosaic lines in the most gorgeous way 😍. Swap in a smooth yarn and you get clean, graphic mosaic lines instead… completely different vibe, equally beautiful. (Fuzzy = dreamy. Smooth = bold. Neither is wrong.) Keep that in mind as you choose your substitute from the table below.

A note on gauge: Bernat Plentiful was labeled Bulky #5… but a big part of what made it knit/crochet to bulky gauge was its halo. The brushed acrylic fibers puffed out around each stitch and filled the fabric, giving you that bulky gauge even though the actual strand wasn't as thick as a true bulky. Yarns with a similar brushed or fuzzy texture should behave closest to the original. For smoother yarns that are technically a lighter weight, holding two strands together can help you reach the right gauge… but always let your swatch be the final answer. Never skip the gauge swatch on a sweater. 🙏

⚠️ Important Note on Yarn Substitutions:

These are suggestions only… I have not personally tested any of them with this specific pattern. Please do a gauge swatch before casting on. Bulky yarn patterns are especially sensitive to gauge differences, and a half-stitch off can mean a full size off in your finished sweater.

Yarn	Weight	Notes
Caron Latte Cakes	Bulky #5	Gradient/ombre, ~530 yds per skein… soft and drapey
Caron Cloud Cakes Perfect Phasing	Worsted #4	Hold 2 strands together to reach bulky gauge… beautiful color phasing effect
Caron Cinnamon Swirl Cakes	Bulky #5	Warm gradient tones… perfect for the cozy sweater vibe
Skyscape by Loops & Threads	Aran #4	Self-patterning ombre… swatch carefully, this is lighter than bulky
Caron Macchiato Cakes	Bulky #5	Rich gradient coloring, excellent yardage
KnitPicks Oceana	Bulky	Soft superfine alpaca + SEAQUAL recycled fiber… fluffy, sustainable, beautiful drape
KnitPicks Wonderfluff	Bulky #5	Alpaca + merino blown into nylon mesh… incredibly soft with a gorgeous halo
Lion Brand Feels Like Bliss	Bulky #5	100% nylon chainette, ultra-soft and fuzzy… note: ~109 yds/skein, you'll need several

🎓 Designer Tip:

Always swatch for a garment. Both stitch gauge AND row gauge matter here… both affect the finished fit. If your gauge is off by even half a stitch, your sweater could end up a full size different. Make your swatch, block it, THEN measure.

What You'll Need

Hook: US K-10.5 / 6.5mm (or size needed to obtain gauge)
Color A (Main): ~952 yards bulky #5 (Lavender Fog in the original)
Color B (Accent): 80 (100, 120, 140, 160, 180) yards bulky #5, by size (Blood Orange in the original)
Scissors + tapestry needle for weaving ends
Stitch markers — grab several before you start; you'll use them throughout the yoke shaping
Measuring tape for your gauge swatch and checking finished measurements as you go

What You'll Learn

Foundation Single Crochet (FSC) — a flexible cast-on that creates a beautiful, stretchy collar edge instead of a stiff chain (way better than regular chains, trust me)
Extended Single Crochet (esc) — adds height and gorgeous drape to your fabric; the main stitch of this sweater (once the rhythm clicks, it's genuinely addictive)
Top-down yoke construction — watch your sweater grow from the collar down; try it on as you go!
Working in the round — joining rounds with a slip stitch and turning, creating a seamless tube for the body
Mosaic colorwork — one color per round (yes, that's really all it is), genuinely so satisfying 🎨
Basic sleeve shaping — simple decreases that create a tapered, flattering fit
Wet blocking a finished garment — the step that takes your sweater from “handmade” to “looks like a boutique find” 😍 (do not skip this step, it's transformative)

Video Tutorial

A video tutorial is in the works! *(I'm planning to make a new sample in a different yarn so you can see exactly how a substitute looks finished — which feels way more useful than just talking about it.)* Subscribe to my YouTube channel so you don't miss it when it drops. 🎬

Marly Bird wearing the Pumpkin Spice mosaic crochet cropped sweater with colorwork detail

Pumpkin Spice Cropped Crochet Sweater || Pattern Details

Skill Level

Advanced Beginner… comfortable working in the round, willing to learn mosaic colorwork (it's easier than it sounds, I promise!).

Finished Measurements

Size	XS	S	M/L	XL	2X	3X
Finished Bust	33.5″	39.25″	44.75″	50.5″	56″	61.5″

Sweater has 6–9″ of ease. Sweater shown is size 2X.

Gauge

10 esc and 8 rows = 4″. Use any size hook needed to obtain gauge.

🎓 Designer Tip:

Gauge matters more for sweaters than any other project. If your gauge is off by even half a stitch, your sweater could end up a full size different. Make your swatch, block it, THEN measure. Don't skip this. I know it's tempting. Don't skip this.

Materials

Yarn: Bernat Plentiful (60% Acrylic, 26% Wool, 14% Polyester; 10.6 oz/300 g; 952 yds/871 m; bulky size CYCA 5) — note: Bernat Plentiful is discontinued. See the Yarn Situation section above for alternatives!

Color A (Main): Lavender Fog — 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) ball

Color B (Accent): Blood Orange — 80 (100, 120, 140, 160, 180) yards

Hook: US K/10.5 (6.5mm)… or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions:

Stitch Markers
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Tape Measure
Notions Bag for Supplies (Optional)
Leather tags (Optional)
Leather rivets (Optional)

Abbreviations

ch — chain
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
sc2tog — single crochet 2 together (decrease)
sl st — slip stitch
esc — extended single crochet (see Special Stitches)
esc2tog — extended single crochet 2 together (see Special Stitches)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
st(s) — stitch(es)
sp — space
tch — turning chain
FSC — Foundation Single Crochet (see Special Stitches)
A — Color A (Main color)
B — Color B (Accent color)

Special Stitches

🎓 Designer Tip… Foundation Single Crochet:

The Foundation Single Crochet is one of my favorite techniques for garments. Instead of chaining first and then crocheting back into the chain… which creates a stiff, curled edge… the FSC builds your chain and your single crochets at the same time. The result is a collar edge that's flexible, non-curling, and comfortable to stretch over your head. Take your time learning the rhythm on the first few stitches. Once it clicks, it moves quickly!

Foundation Single Crochet (FSC)

First stitch: Ch 2 (does not count as sc), insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook (this forms a chain; placing a stitch marker can help identify the chain in the next stitch), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (this forms the single crochet).

Next stitch: Insert hook into bottom of previous stitch (in the “chain” space), yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook (forming a chain), yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (forming the next single crochet).

Repeat “Next stitch” for each additional Foundation Single Crochet needed.

Extended Single Crochet (esc)

Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook.

🎓 Designer Tip… Extended Single Crochet:

The Extended Single Crochet is my secret weapon for fabric with beautiful drape. That one extra step… yarn over, pull through one loop… gives the stitch a little extra height and creates fabric that moves and flows. It's the whole reason this sweater hangs so gorgeously.

Extended Single Crochet 2 Together (esc2tog)

Insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop on hook, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. (1 st decreased)

Close-up of the Pumpkin Spice Cropped Crochet Sweater mosaic colorwork hem detail

Schematic

Free Crochet Oversized Sweater Pattern – Pumpkin Spice

Stitch Diagrams

Mosaic stitch diagram for Pumpkin Spice crochet sweater colorwork section

Mosaic colorwork chart for Pumpkin Spice Cropped Crochet Sweater

These diagrams are also available in the ad-free PDF for easy printing.

🧶 Purchase on Ravelry

Notes

* Sweater is worked from the collar down to the end of the yoke, then split into front, back, and sleeve sections. Front and back are joined and worked in the round down to the edging.

* Sweater is worked in joined rounds. At the end of each round, join as instructed, then turn your work when the pattern says to turn. Turning helps create the stitch texture and keeps the fabric balanced.

* Ch 2 counts as an extended single crochet unless otherwise noted. When joining rounds, join to the top of the turning chain when instructed.

* Use stitch markers generously. Mark the beginning of the round, yoke increase points, front and back panel sections, and sleeve sections as instructed. Move markers up as the pattern tells you so your shaping stays easy to follow.

* Sweater can be customized with body and sleeve length by crocheting more or fewer rounds after the split for the front, back, and sleeves. Keep in mind that adding length may require more yarn.

* This sweater is designed with generous positive ease for an oversized fit. Check the finished bust measurement before choosing your size, especially if you are between sizes.

* Colorwork is a modified mosaic crochet pattern worked with one color of yarn for each round. You will change colors at the end of the round as instructed, but only one color is used at a time.

* In the mosaic section, some stitches are worked into stitches 1 row below. Pay close attention to whether the pattern says to work in front of or behind the chain space, as this creates the colorwork design.

* The mosaic section includes written instructions, a stitch diagram, and a chart. Beginners may find it helpful to read the written instructions first, then compare them to the chart to understand how the design is built.

* Check your stitch count at the end of shaping rounds and before starting the mosaic section. Correct stitch counts will make the body split, sleeves, and mosaic repeat much easier to follow.

* When working foundation single crochet for the collar or underarms, take your time and keep the stitches relaxed so the edge does not become too tight.

* Weave in ends securely and block the sweater to the schematic measurements for the best finished shape.

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I'm thrilled to share this amazing pattern with you, many patterns on my blog are absolutely free! I kindly request that you don't copy and paste or distribute this pattern. Prefer an ad-free experience? Buy a digital PDF pattern for a small fee from one of my online stores for a seamless crafting journey.

I appreciate your support and readership. You are the reason I can keep doing what I love and sharing it with others. So, thank you from the bottom of my yarn-loving heart! Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I get a commission if you decide to make a purchase through my links at no cost to you.

Marly Bird modeling the Pumpkin Spice Cropped Crochet Sweater showing the top-down construction and mosaic hem

Pumpkin Spice Cropped Crochet Sweater — Pattern Instructions

🎓 Designer Tip:

We're starting at the collar and working our way DOWN the sweater — this is called top-down construction, and it's one of my favorite ways to build a garment because you can try it on as you go. Start with your Foundation sc to create the flexible collar edge.

Yoke

Foundation Round (RS): 56 (56, 56, 64, 64, 64) Foundation sc with A (see Special Stitches), join with sl st to first st, turn.

Round 1 (WS): Ch 2 (counts as esc), esc in next 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6) st, 2 esc in next st, place marker in st just made, *esc in next 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7), 2 esc in next st, place marker in st just made; repeat from * around to beginning, sl st to top of tch to join, turn. (64, 64, 64, 72, 72, 72 sts)

Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as esc), 2 esc in next marked st, move marker to st just made, *esc in each st to marker, 2 esc in marker, move marker to st just made; repeat from * around to last marker, esc in each st to beginning, sl st to top of tch to join, turn. (72, 72, 72, 80, 80, 80 sts)

Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as esc), *esc in each st to marker, 2 esc in next st; repeat from * around to last marker, esc in each st to beginning, sl st to top of tch to join, turn. (80, 80, 80, 88, 88, 88 sts)

Repeat Round 3 once (once, once, 3 times, 3 times, 5 times). (88, 88, 88, 112, 112, 128 sts)

Round 5 (5, 5, 7, 7, 9): Ch 2 (counts as esc), esc in each st around, move markers up to sts in current row, sl st to top of tch to join, turn.

XS Only: [Repeat Row 3 twice, Repeat Row 5 once] 3 times, Repeat Row 5 6 more times, fasten off, turn. (20 rows, 136 sts)

S Only: [Repeat Row 3 twice, Repeat Row 5 once] 4 times, Repeat Row 5 7 more times, fasten off, turn. (22 rows, 152 sts)

M/L Only: [Repeat Row 3 3 times, Repeat Row 5 once] 3 times, Repeat Row 3 once, Repeat Row 5 6 more times, fasten off, turn. (24 rows, 168 sts)

XL Only: [Repeat Row 3 3 times, Repeat Row 7 once] 3 times, Repeat Row 7 5 more times, fasten off, turn. (24 rows, 184 sts)

2X Only: [Repeat Row 3 3 times, Repeat Row 7 once] 3 times, Repeat Row 3 once, Repeat Row 7 6 more times, fasten off, turn. (26 rows, 192 sts)

3X Only: [Repeat Row 3 3 times, Repeat Row 9 once] 3 times, Repeat Row 3 once, Repeat Row 9 6 more times, fasten off, turn. (28 rows, 208 sts)

🎓 Designer Tip:

This is the moment where it starts to look like an actual SWEATER. You've finished growing the yoke, and now you're separating out the front, back, and sleeve sections. Read through this section once before you pick up your hook — understanding the construction logic first makes it SO much easier to follow.

Front/Back Panels

Pick any marker to be the center front of your sweater. Remove the rest of the yoke shaping markers. Place new markers 18 (21, 24, 26, 28, 31) sts in each direction from the center front marker (include center front st in one direction). This locates the front panel of 36 (42, 48, 52, 56, 62) sts. Skip 32 (34, 36, 40, 40, 42) sts from front panel markers, place marker in next st. These are the sleeve sts. The sts now marked are the back panel, which should match your front panel.

Row 1 (WS) — Front Panel: Join A with sl st to first front panel marker, ch 2 (counts as esc), esc in same st as join, esc in each st across to marker, 2 esc in marker, turn. (38, 44, 50, 54, 58, 64 sts)

Row 2 (RS) — Front Panel: Ch 2, esc in first st, esc in each st across to last, 2 esc in last st, fasten off. (40, 46, 52, 56, 60, 66 sts)

Row 1 (WS) — Back Panel: Join A with sl st to first back panel marker, ch 2 (counts as esc), esc in same st as join, esc in each st across to marker, 2 esc in marker, turn. (38, 44, 50, 54, 58, 64 sts)

Row 2 (RS) — Back Panel: Ch 2, esc in first st, esc in each st across to last, 2 esc in last st, turn. Do not fasten off. (40, 46, 52, 56, 60, 66 sts)

Body

Note about body: To create the body, we will work across the back panel, make some Foundation sc for the underarm, continue to the front panel, make more Foundation sc for the opposite underarm, and join to create a complete round.

Round 1 (WS): Ch 2, esc in each st across back panel, 2 (3, 4, 7, 10, 11) foundation sc, esc in each st across front panel, 2 (3, 4, 7, 10, 11) foundation sc, sl st to top of tch to join, turn. (84, 98, 112, 126, 140, 154 sts)

Round 2 (RS): Ch 2, esc in each st around, sl st to top of tch to join, turn.

Repeat Round 2 twice (twice, twice, 4 times, 4 times, 6 times). Do not fasten off, turn.

Note about length: If you would like a longer body, you can add as many extra rounds here as you wish before continuing with the mosaic section. The mosaic section is about 4″. If you add a lot of rounds, the larger sizes might need an extra ball of yarn.

🎓 Designer Tip:

Here we go — this is the part people are intimidated by, and I promise it's much friendlier than it looks. Mosaic crochet works ONE color per round. You never hold two yarns at the same time. The pattern emerges because you're working some stitches INTO the row below — those “hdc 1 row below” stitches are pulling the previous color's yarn up through the fabric to create the visual pattern. Use the chart and stitch diagram above! They make it so much easier to see what's happening.

Mosaic Section

Note about mosaic: We now start the colorwork section with one color being worked at a time on each round. See stitch diagram and chart for assistance.

Round 1 (WS): Join B, ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc, change to A, turn.

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 2, skip 1 sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 4, skip 3 sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 2, skip 1 sc**, sc in next 3 sc; repeat from * around body ending at **, sc in last 2 sts, sl st to first sc, change to B, turn. (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 ch-4 sps)

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 2, skip 1 sc, hdc in next st 1 row below (work behind ch-sp), sc in next 2 sc, ch 2, skip 1 sc, hdc in next 3 sts 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc in next 2 st, hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st**, sc in next st; repeat from * around body ending at **, sl st to first sc, change to A, turn.

Round 4: Ch 1, *hdc in next st 1 row below (work in front of ch-sp), sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1 sc, hdc in next st 1 row below, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 sc, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st; repeat from * around, sl st to first st, change to B, turn.

Round 5: Ch 1, *hdc in next st 1 row below (work behind ch-sp), sc in next 2 st, ch 2, skip 1 sc, hdc in next st 1 row below, sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc in next 2 sts; repeat from * around, sl st to first st, change to A, turn.

Round 6: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 2, skip 1 sc, hdc in next st 1 row below (work in front of ch-sps), sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st, hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st**, sc in next 3 sts; repeat from * around ending at **, sc in last 2 sts, sl st to first st, change to B, turn.

Round 7: Ch 1, *sc in next st, ch 2, skip 1 st, hdc in next st 1 row below, sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st, hdc in next st 1 row below, sc in next st, hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st; repeat from * around, sl st to first sc to join, change to A, turn.

Round 8: Ch 1, *hdc in next st 1 row below, sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1 sc, hdc in next st 1 row below, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 sc, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st; repeat from * around, sl st to first st, change to B, turn.

Round 9: Ch 1, *hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st, hdc in next st 1 row below, sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st; repeat from * around, sl st to first st to join, change to A, turn.

Round 10: Ch 1, *hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc in next st, ch 2, skip 1 st, hdc in next st 1 row below, sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st, hdc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to first st, change to B, turn.

Round 11: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, *hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st, hdc in next st 1 row below, sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip next st, hdc in next st 1 row below**, sc in next 3 sts; repeat from * around ending at **, sc in last st, sl st to first st, change to A, turn.

Round 12: Ch 1, *sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st 1 row below, sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st, hdc in next st 1 row below, sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st; repeat from * around, sl st to first st, change to B, turn.

Round 13: Ch 1, *hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st, hdc in next st 1 row below, sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st; repeat from * around, sl st to first st to join, change to A, turn.

Round 14: Ch 1, *hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 2, skip 1 st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st 1 row below, ch 4, skip 3 sc, hdc in next st 1 row below, hdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st, hdc in next st 1 row below, sc in next st; repeat from * around, sl st to first st, change to B, turn.

Round 15: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, *hdc in next st 1 row below, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 3 sts 1 row below, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next st 1 row below**, sc in next 3 sts; repeat from * around ending at **, sc in last sc, sl st to first st, change to A, fasten off B, turn.

Rounds 16–17: Ch 2, esc in each st around, sl st to top of tch, turn.

Round 18: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc, fasten off.

🎓 Designer Tip:

When you pick up stitches for the sleeves, you'll work into the ends of the rows along the side of the front and back panels — that's what the “3 esc in side of front or back panel” instruction means. Don't worry if it feels a little awkward at first; those picked-up stitches are what create a smooth underarm join.

Sleeves (Make 2)

Round 1 (WS): Join A to underarm with sl st, ch 2 (counts as esc), esc in each st across underarm, place 3 esc in side of front or back panel (working over the row ends), esc in each st around, place 3 esc in side of front or back panel, esc in each st across underarm to beginning, sl st to top of tch, turn. (40, 43, 46, 53, 56, 59 sts)

Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as esc), esc in each st around, sl st to top of tch, turn.

Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as esc), esc in next 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 9) sts, esc2tog over next 2 sts, place marker in st just made, *esc in next (6, 6, 7, 8, 9, 9) sts, esc2tog over next 2 sts, place marker in st just made; repeat from * around, (S, XL, 3X only) esc in each remaining st to beginning, (all sizes) sl st to top of tch, turn. (35, 38, 41, 48, 51, 54 sts)

Rounds 4–5: Ch 2 (counts as esc), esc in each st around, sl st to top of tch, turn.

Round 6: Ch 2 (counts as esc), *esc in each st around to 1 st before marker, esc2tog over next 2 sts, place marker in st just made; repeat from * around, esc in each st to beginning, sl st to top of tch, turn. (30, 33, 36, 43, 46, 49 sts)

Repeat Rounds 4–6 twice (twice, twice, 3 times, 3 times, 3 times). (20, 23, 26, 28, 31, 34 sts)

Repeat Round 4 a total of 4 (4, 4, 3, 3, 3) more times. (16, 16, 16, 18, 18, 18 rounds total)

Note about sleeves: Sleeves are ¾ length. If you wish for longer sleeves, add more rounds after the shaping is finished before working the cuff.

Cuff

XS / S / M/L Only

Round 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc, turn. (20, 23, 26 sts)

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc, turn.

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc, change to B, fasten off A, turn.

Round 4: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. Fasten off B.

XL / 2X / 3X Only

Round 1 (WS): Ch 1, *sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts; repeat from * around, sc in each st to beginning, sl st to first st, turn. (25, 28, 31 sts)

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc, turn.

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc, change to B, fasten off A, turn.

Round 4: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. Fasten off B.

Finishing

Weave in all ends.

Join A to RS of collar with sl st, ch 1, sc in each foundation sc around collar, sl st to first sc, fasten off.

For detailed blocking guidance, see Blocking Made Easy. Pin sweater to schematic size, lightly spray with water, and allow to dry.

🎓 Designer Tip:

Please block this sweater before you declare it finished. Pin it to the schematic measurements, spritz it lightly with water, and let it dry completely — usually overnight. Blocking evens out the stitches, sets the mosaic pattern, and can add an inch or two of ease. The difference between a blocked and unblocked crocheted garment is genuinely dramatic.

More Mosaic Crochet Patterns 🎨

Fallen in love with mosaic crochet? Same 😄. Once you try it, the geometric possibilities are endless… and the results always look like you spent three times as long on them. Here are some of my favorites to try next, ranging from an easy starter blanket all the way to wearables!

Free Mosaic Crochet Blanket — the perfect mosaic starter project; build your skills before tackling a garment
Mallow Mosaic Crochet Hat — practice mosaic in hat form; a wonderful warm-up for this sweater
Mosaic Tile Crochet Blanket — geometric mosaic in a beautiful home decor piece
Rockford Crochet Ruana — this exclusive Marly Bird House workshop is a fan favorite pattern
Autumn Breeze Mosaic Crochet Hat — watching this hat come to life is addictive, you will love it

Need more mosaic resources? We got you covered 👉 https://marlybird.com/blog/mosaic-knitting-and-mosaic-crochet-resources/

Marly Bird in the Pumpkin Spice Cropped Crochet Sweater... free beginner mosaic crochet pattern by Marly Bird and Robyn Chachula

More Free Crochet Sweater Patterns You'll Love

Caught the garment-making bug? Welcome to the club. It's a truly wonderful place to be 🧶. Here are some of my other favorite free crochet sweater patterns to try next!

Moss Stitch Cropped Crochet Sweater — another cropped beauty, this one using the gorgeous moss stitch
Free Crochet Crew Sweater Pattern — a classic crew neck silhouette, perfect for beginners
Garden Party Crochet Cardigan — this is one of the Marly Bird's most popular patterns
Creekside Crochet Ruana — this is the #1 selling patterns of all time
Northwoods Crochet Cardigan — cozy, warm, and perfect for layering
Sookie Crochet Cardigan — a beautifully draped open-front cardigan
10 Free Sweater Patterns (Knit and Crochet) — even more options if you can't decide what to make next!

A woman models a blue Tunisian crochet shawl, showing its stitch detail and texture outdoors against sunlit trees. — Garden Party Crochet Cardigan

Green crochet ruana shawl with visible openwork stitch, modeled in a bright room with shelves and plants behind. — Garden Party Crochet Cardigan

Favorite This Pattern on Ravelry 🧶

Love this sweater? Add it to your Ravelry queue so you can find it again later… and when you you make it, add your project photos there too. I love seeing every single one. 😍

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Pumpkin Spice Sweater really beginner-friendly if I've never crocheted a garment?

Yes, and I mean that for real. This sweater uses flat rectangular panels and a top-down yoke that grows naturally round by round… no complicated armhole shaping, no math puzzles. If you can crochet in the round (like a hat or a granny square), you have every skill you need. Take it section by section and you will genuinely surprise yourself. 🙌

What is mosaic crochet and how hard is it to learn?

Mosaic crochet is a two-color technique where you only ever work one color per round… no juggling two balls, no carrying a second strand across the back. Color A does its complete round, Color B does its complete round, and the colorwork effect happens automatically from how the stitches interact. It looks way harder than it is. That's kind of the whole appeal. 😄 Full explanation in the What Is Mosaic Crochet section above.

The pattern calls for Bernat Plentiful — that's discontinued. What yarn should I use?

Bernat Plentiful is discontinued and I feel your pain. (I really do.) For the original soft, impressionist mosaic look, grab a brushed or mohair-look bulky like Lion Brand Halo. For clean, graphic mosaic lines, a smooth bulky like Lion Brand Pound of Love or Caron One Pound held double works beautifully. Scroll up to the yarn table for all five alternatives with full notes on each one.

How long will this sweater take to make?

Most crocheters finish this sweater in a weekend to about a week of regular crafting sessions. Bulky yarn means progress is fast and visible… smaller sizes (XS through M/L) in a dedicated weekend is very realistic. The mosaic section requires a bit of chart attention, but once the repeat clicks it goes quickly. (And honestly? Watching this one come together is kind of addictive.)

Can I make this sweater longer, or adjust the sleeve length?

Absolutely! Length customization is built right into the pattern. For a longer body, add extra esc rounds in the Body section before the mosaic (the pattern notes call this out specifically). For longer sleeves, add extra rounds after the decrease shaping and before the cuff. Try the sweater on as you go and make it exactly the length you want 🙌.

How do I wash and care for this sweater?

Always check your ball band first since care depends on the yarn you use. For most bulky yarn substitutes, cool water hand washing and laying flat to dry is the safest bet. Never hang a wet sweater… the weight will stretch it out of shape. When in doubt, lay flat to dry. Your sweater will thank you for years to come.

Is this pattern really free? Where do I find the full instructions?

Yes, 100% free, right here on this page… just scroll up to the Pattern Instructions section. No Ravelry account, no email required, no tricks. (A small portion is behind a free Grow account… takes about 30 seconds to set up.) If you'd prefer a completely ad-free, print-friendly PDF, that's available in my Etsy, Shopify, and Ravelry shops… but the full pattern will always live right here for free.

Final Thoughts

You can do this. Seriously… I designed this sweater to be someone's first garment, and the messages I get from people who made it are some of my favorites. “I never thought I could make a sweater.” Now they're making their third. 🙌

Two colors. One at a time. A yoke that grows round by round. And then you put it on and someone asks where you bought it. (You didn't. You made it. And that feeling never gets old.)

If you make your version, please share it with me. Tag me on Instagram, add it to the Ravelry project gallery, drop a photo in the comments. Seeing your finished sweaters is one of my absolute favorite parts of this job. Go make something beautiful, bestie! 💛

❤️ Your BiCrafty Bestie,
Marly Bird

Knit Lace Shawl || Free Knit Shawl With Hearts

June 16, 2026 By admin 1 Comment

Wrap yourself in this beautiful knit lace shawl with hearts — the Warming Hearts Sofa Shawl! Perfect for keeping warm on a cool day, this lace knit shawl features a simple repeat to form a lace heart pattern. Stunning and stylish, it's the perfect accessory to have laying out to grab anytime you need a little extra warmth. Keep this shawl for yourself or gift it to someone you love.

Note: the original pattern used Red Heart Dreamy yarn, which has since been discontinued. I've listed plenty of yarn alternatives below so you can still make this gorgeous knit lace shawl with hearts! Work this knit lace shawl with me.

Knit lace shawl with hearts — free knit shawl pattern

Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. To learn more please visit my privacy policy here💖

What you Will Learn

Lace knitting doesn't have to be hard. Learn along with me everything that you need to know to have success in making this knit lace shawl with hearts pattern.

using circular needles with a flat project
knit seed stitch
knit two together
slip, slip, knit
reading a knitting chart
center double decrease
center treble decrease
bind off in pattern

Circular Needles for Flat Knitting

You may be wondering if you can really use circular needles for this flat knit shawl. The answer is YES!

Using circular needles allows you to get more stitches on your needles. Straight needles are limited to the length that you are able to find. The longer that your straight needles are the more strain you will be putting on your shoulders, neck, elbows and wrists.

Circular needles allow you to get a large number of stitches on your needles without straining. Work your pattern just as you would if they were straight needles, turning your project after each row.

Gauge for Shawl Patterns

Gauge is not typically our favorite part of knitting. Although it can make or break your finished project when it comes to a garment, there is some wiggle room when making a shawl.

Shawls have some flexibility when it comes to matching gauge. If your gauge is slightly off your shawl will still turn out beautiful. Why would you want to work a gauge swatch then for this project?

Working a gauge swatch will help to ensure that you don't run out of yarn. If your gauge is much larger than the designer intended you have the possibility of running out of yarn before finishing your shawl. Be sure to check your gauge to make sure that you are relatively close so that you will be able to finish your project.

This is especially important when substituting yarn — since Red Heart Dreamy has been discontinued, you'll want to swatch your chosen alternative against the original gauge (15 sts and 20 rows = 4″/10 cm on US 10/6mm needles) before casting on for the full project.

Yarn Alternatives for This Knit Lace Shawl

Red Heart Dreamy was a beautifully soft, bulky (#5) 100% acrylic yarn — perfect for this drapey, cozy shawl. Since it's no longer available, here are the best substitutes that will give you a similar look and feel. All of these are 100% acrylic, easy-care, and widely available in the US. Remember to always work a gauge swatch when substituting yarn!

Caron Latte Cakes

Best for cozy softness and subtle color transitions. Caron Latte Cakes is a wonderful option if you're looking for a shawl that's as comfortable to wear as it is beautiful to knit. The long color changes create effortless visual interest throughout the lace pattern, while the plush acrylic blend gives the finished shawl a soft, cozy feel. Available in a variety of gorgeous color combinations, this yarn can turn a simple lace design into a stunning accessory. As with any yarn substitution, be sure to knit a gauge swatch before starting your project.

Caron Cloud Cakes

Best for soft gradients and effortless color changes. Caron Cloud Cakes features long color transitions that create beautiful visual interest without changing yarns. Its lightweight, soft texture and generous yardage make it a great choice for lace shawls and wraps with lovely drape. Available from Michaels, it's perfect when you want a cozy project with stunning color effects straight from the cake. Check out this one too.

Caron Macchiato Cakes

Best Michaels option. Best for gorgeous gradients and cozy elegance. Caron Macchiato Cakes brings together beautiful color transitions and a soft, lofty feel that works wonderfully in lace shawls. The long color changes do all the work for you, creating eye-catching results with minimal effort. Plus, the acrylic-wool blend adds warmth and a gentle halo that gives your finished shawl an extra-special look and feel.

Video Tutorial

Through the video tutorial you will see that I am showing you a sample working one heart repeat. I will talk you through working each section of this repeat and what you would need to do to work the other panels of the shawl.

FREE Knit Shawl Pattern

Download this FREE knit shawl pattern from Yarnspirations.

Warming Hearts Sofa Shawl — free knit lace shawl with hearts pattern from Yarnspirations

More Free Knit Shawl Patterns by Marly Bird

Love this knit lace shawl? I've got a whole collection of free knit shawl patterns for every skill level — from beginner-friendly garter stitch to beautiful lace and cable designs. Here are some of my favorites:

Almond Brittle Knit Wrap — Beginner-friendly bulky lace knit wrap with a stunning textural effect. A great next project after this one!
Shangri-La Knit Lace Shawl — A delicate, airy free knit lace pattern that works up as either a scarf or shawl. Perfect for lace lovers.
Return to Me Boomerang Knit Shawl — Easy cables and lace combined in a beautiful boomerang shape. One of my most popular shawl patterns!
Peak Serenity One Ball Knit Shawl — A beginner-friendly shawl that uses just one skein of yarn. Quick, satisfying, and beautiful.
Lehabah Fire Sprite Shawl — Inspired by the Crescent City series, this stunning crescent shawl is perfect for fans of fantasy knitting.
Eowyn Cable Knit Shawl — A textured right-triangle shawl with beautiful cable details. Great for knitters ready to level up.
Blood of My Blood Outlander Shawl — A richly textured shawl inspired by Outlander. Perfect for cozy knitting season!
Easy Beginner Garter Stitch Bias Knit Shawl — If you're brand new to shawl knitting, start here! Simple garter stitch in a bias construction makes this one completely beginner-friendly.

➡️ See all free knit shawl patterns →

A woman models a cozy multicolored knit scarf with visible textured stitches, highlighting the scarf’s soft, chunky yarn. — Tilted Blocks Half Circle Knit Shawl

Other Resources for Knit Shawls

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I really use circular needles for a flat project like this shawl?

Yes, you absolutely can! Circular needles are a lifesaver when you have a lot of stitches on your needles. They help prevent strain on your shoulders, neck, and wrists compared to long straight needles. Just turn your work after each row like you would with straight needles.

Do I really need to worry about gauge for this shawl?

Honestly, gauge is a little more flexible with shawls than with garments. If your gauge is a bit off, your shawl will probably still be beautiful. The main reason to check it is to make sure you have enough yarn — you don't want to run out before you're done! This is especially important if you're substituting yarn.

What new knitting techniques will I learn with this pattern?

So here's the thing… this pattern is a great way to learn some fun new skills! You'll get to practice using circular needles for flat knitting, work with seed stitch, learn decreases like knit two together, slip slip knit, center double decrease, and center treble decrease. Plus, you'll learn how to read a knitting chart and bind off in pattern.

Where can I get the FREE pattern for this shawl?

You can snag the FREE knit shawl pattern over on Yarnspirations. Just click the link that says “FREE knit shawl pattern” and it will take you right there. It's such a lovely design, perfect for gifting or keeping!

Is there a video tutorial to help me if I get stuck?

Yes! I've got a video tutorial that walks you through working one heart repeat. It's super helpful to see it done step-by-step, and I'll explain how to work the other sections of the shawl as well. Grab your yarn and needles and let's knit together!

Red Heart Dreamy yarn is discontinued — can I still make this shawl?

Absolutely yes! The pattern itself is still available for free on Yarnspirations. You just need to find a substitute yarn with a similar weight and gauge. Look for a bulky (#5) acrylic yarn that knits to approximately 15 sts per 4 inches on US size 10 (6mm) needles. Check out the “Yarn Alternatives” section above for specific recommendations that are easy to find in the US.

What is the best yarn substitute for Red Heart Dreamy?

The best US-accessible substitutes for Red Heart Dreamy are: Red Heart With Love (same brand, soft, widely available), Caron One Pound (great value, excellent yardage), Lion Brand Heartland (beautiful colorways), and Loops & Threads Impressions (available at Michaels). Any of these will work beautifully for this knit lace shawl — just be sure to swatch to match the original gauge of 15 sts/20 rows = 4″ on US 10 needles.

Corner to Corner Single Crochet Entrelac Square — Free Pattern + Tutorial

June 6, 2026 By admin Leave a Comment

📝 Updated June 7, 2026: Full framework refresh… new standalone intro (CAL references removed), “What Is Single Crochet Entrelac?” education section added, materials updated (Chic Sheep by Marly Bird discontinued … current substitutes with affiliate links added), tips section for managing ends and blocking, internal entrelac cluster navigation, and expanded conversational FAQ.

Free Corner to Corner Single Crochet Entrelac Square Pattern (12″)

Entrelac has that gorgeous woven, lattice-like look that seems complicated but is actually built entirely from small rectangles layered on top of each other. This version uses single crochet… not Tunisian, which means you don't need a special long hook. Just the regular hook you already own. The finished square is 12 inches square, making it perfect for blankets, standalone art pieces, or a skill-builder project that looks way more impressive than it actually is. You'll definitely get compliments on this one.

Originally designed for the Wedding Blanket CAL, but this pattern stands completely on its own. Whether you're working through the full blanket or just want one gorgeous square for your collection… this one is for you.

Single Crochet Entrelac square in blue, white, and gray yarn displayed on wood with textured checkerboard pattern.

What Is Single Crochet Entrelac?

Entrelac = building fabric from small squares and rectangles arranged diagonally, creating that woven or lattice look.

C2C (corner to corner) = building from one corner outward and then decreasing back, which gives you straight edges all around.

Single crochet vs. Tunisian entrelac: Most online tutorials use Tunisian, which requires a special long hook. Marly's version uses regular single crochet… the yarn, hook, and skills you already have. SC entrelac is softer and flatter than Tunisian, but equally beautiful. The main challenge is managing all the color changes and weaving in those ends, not the stitch itself.

✅ Is This For You?

You know how to single crochet
You're comfortable changing colors
You don't mind weaving in ends (there are several)
You want a square that looks way more impressive than it actually is

Materials

Yarn: This pattern was originally written for Chic Sheep by Marly Bird (Merino Wool, DK weight). That yarn is discontinued. You can substitute with any DK weight yarn with good stitch definition… the pattern calls for 3 colors (A, B, C) in small amounts, so this is a great project for mini skeins or scraps. Suggested substitutes: Excellent substitutes that give you the same beautiful stitch definition:
- Malabrigo Rios — tidd.ly/49VZcW1
- Berroco Ultra Wool — tidd.ly/4pSjENv
- Swish Worsted (Knit Picks) — tidd.ly/4qL6Zxt
- Cascade 220 Superwash — tidd.ly/4afBG7B
- Madelinetosh Tosh Vintage — tidd.ly/4rgPp3P
When substituting, look for: worsted weight (#4), strong stitch definition, merino wool or a soft wool blend. This is also a wonderful scraps and mini-skein project — use small amounts of any smooth worsted that coordinates!
Hook: Size I/9 (5.5 mm)
Gauge: 4 squares = 4″ × 4″ [10 × 10 cm]. You can use any size hook to obtain the gauge. Just work a small swatch first.
Notions: Stitch markers (important… mark stitches between tiers as you go), scissors, tapestry needle
Finished size: 12″ × 12″ after blocking

Corner to Corner Single Crochet Entrelac Square Pattern

Materials:

1 ball color A (Chic Sheep by Marly Bird™ in Linen)
1 ball color B (Chic Sheep by Marly Bird™ in VIP)
1 ball color C (Chic Sheep by Marly Bird™ in Suede)
Scissors
Finishing needle

Tier 1

With Color A

Row 1 (RS): Chain 8, sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, change to color B in last sc of row and place marker in that stitch, turn.

Go ahead and cut color A leaving a 6″ tail to weave in later.

Tier 2

Square 1

With color B

Row 1 (WS): Chain 8, sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the next 5 ch, sc2tog (the last chain and the marked stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier [note: the slipped stitch takes the place of the ch 1 we usually do after the turn], turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 2 (RS): Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 4: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 6: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier) place a marker in that stitch, do not turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Square 2

Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, 7 sc evenly along the edge, turn … 7 sc.

Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, change to color C in last sc of row and place marker in that stitch, turn.

Go ahead and cut color B leaving a 6″ tail to weave in later.

Tier 3

Square 1

With color C

Row 1 (RS): Chain 8, sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the next 5 ch, sc2tog (the last chain and the marked stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier [note: the slipped stitch takes the place of the ch 1 we usually do after the turn], turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 2 (WS): Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 4: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 6: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier) place a marker in that stitch, do not turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Square 2

Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, 6 sc evenly along the edge, sc2tog (the last sc and the marked stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 2 (WS): Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 4: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 6: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier) place a marker in that stitch, do not turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Square 3

Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, 7 sc evenly along the edge, turn … 7 sc.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, change to color A in last sc of row and place marker in that stitch, turn.

Go ahead and cut color C leaving a 6″ tail to weave in later.

Tier 4

Square 1

With color A

Row 2 (RS): Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 4: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 6: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier) place a marker in that stitch, do not turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Squares 2 and 3

Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, 6 sc evenly along the edge, sc2tog (the last sc and the marked stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 2 (RS): Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 4: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 6: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier) place a marker in that stitch, do not turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Square 4

Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, 7 sc evenly along the edge, turn … 7 sc.

Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, change to color B in last sc of row and place marker in that stitch, turn.

Go ahead and cut color A leaving a 6″ tail to weave in later.

Tier 5

Square 1

With color B

Row 2 (WS): Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 4: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 6: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier) place a marker in that stitch, do not turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Squares 2, 3, 4

Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier

Row 2 (WS): Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 4: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 6: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier) place a marker in that stitch, do not turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Square 5

Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, 7 sc evenly along the edge, turn … 7 sc.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, change to color C in last sc of row and place marker in that stitch, turn.

Go ahead and cut color B leaving a 6″ tail to weave in later.

Tier 6

Square 1

With color C

Row 2 (RS): Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 4: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 6: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier) place a marker in that stitch, do not turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Squares 2, 3, 4, 5

Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier

Row 2 (RS): Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 4: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 6: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier) place a marker in that stitch, do not turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Square 6

Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, 7 sc evenly along the edge, turn … 7 sc.

Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each sc across
Fasten off color C leaving a 6″ tail to weave in later, turn … 7 sc.

The square is now as wide on the diagonal as it will get. Time to decrease one square per tier until we get to only 1 again.

Tier 7

Squares 1, 2, 3, 4

With color B

For square 1, join with a slip stitch in 8th stitch to begin row. This is the top of square 5 from the previous row. Starting here will decrease this row to 4 squares.

For squares 2, 3, 4, Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier

Row 2 (WS): Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 4: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 6: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier) place a marker in that stitch, do not turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Square 5

Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, 7 sc evenly along the edge, turn … 7 sc.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each sc across
Fasten off color B leaving a 6″ tail to weave in later, turn … 7 sc.

Tier 8

Squares 1, 2, 3

For square 1, join with a slip stitch in 8th stitch to begin row. This is the top of square 5 from the previous row. Starting here will decrease this row to 4 squares.

For squares 2, 3, 4, Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier

With color A

Row 2 (RS): Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 4: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier), slip stitch in next stitch on square from previous tier, turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Row 6: Sc in sc2tog, and in next 6 sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sc, sc2tog (the last sc and the next stitch on square from previous tier) place a marker in that stitch, do not turn … 6 sc, 1 sc2tog.

Square 4

Working along the edge of the same square of previous tier

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, 7 sc evenly along the edge, turn … 7 sc.

Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn … 7 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each sc across
Fasten off color A leaving a 6″ tail to weave in later, turn … 7 sc.

Tier 9

Squares 1, 2