Lipstick KAL: Choosing the Right Size for YOUR Lipstick

If you have taken my Curvy Knits class either at STITCHES or on CRAFTSY you know that choosing the right size all begins with what you already have in your closet!

To choose the correct size Lipstick for YOU we are going to take the measurements of a piece you have in your closet. Right now, go to your closet and choose a garment that you like the fit of and want the Lipstick Cardigan to fit like. For me, I chose a sweater that is a little snug around my body from my waist up (in all the Stockinette stitch portions of the sweater I am making) knowing that the band around the lower half of the Lipstick will have a good amount of ease. I think it is more important to have the body FIT correctly.

Here is mine:

I took a variety of measurements. If you are not sure what measurements to take I would take a look at the schematic and take those same measurements on your favorite garment. Once you have the favorite garment measurements you can compare them to the ones on the schematic and make any adjustments you might want to make.

I can hear you thinking, “Why would I make adjustments to this pattern? Is it not written correctly?” Well, of course it is written correctly. BUT, if you are going to take the time to make something for YOU why not make sure it is going to fit YOU the way YOU like it to fit? Now is the time to make any changes you might want so that when you are finished with YOUR Lipstick you are pleased with it. And, if you are like me and spent a pretty penny on the yarn I am sure you want your cardigan to fit GREAT!

You can see on my schematic I have highlighted all the measurements that pertain to the size I am making (2x) and a few notes for areas that I plan on making changes to have the cardigan better fit ME!

One of the changes I am making for mine is the front width. As written the fronts are 1/2 the back measurements which will work, but I know that for me if my fronts are less than half and the trim makes up for the area left open it looks better on me. SO, the schematic shows that the fronts for the 2x should be 12 1/2″ but I am changing mine to be 10 1/2″.

Making this change will change the number of stitches that I will need to cast on for the fronts and it will also change the rate of neck shaping but it will not change any of the side/row measurements so I will be able to follow the instructions for the 2x size whenever I am working to measurements. I've gone ahead and made the changes in the pattern before I begin to make sure that I don't get carried away and forget to make the changes.

Note: I have highlighted the cast on number I am using for the left front but I also highlighted the 2x measurements to remind me of which ones I am using … I love visual cues! 

Specifically, for my changes I am going to cast on for the 10 1/2 inches (44 sts) follow the pattern same as the back to the armhole, then work the same armhole instructions as for the back and evenly for 3 1/2″ which is what the instructions say to do for my size. Because I cast on fewer stitches than the 2x size suggested but still followed the armhole instructions for the 2x I will have fewer stitches on my needle after the armhole shaping than written for either the 2x or the large (28 sts remain).

So I will need to also adjust the number of times I decrease to shape the front neck so that my shoulder stitches will match up front to back. There are 18 sts at the back shoulder for the 2x so if I have 28 sts after my armhole shaping I need to eliminate 10 sts at the front neck edge so that my front shoulder will match my back shoulder. Which means I will only work my decreases 10 times total instead of the written number.

I am not too concerned about this making the shaping shorter than written (it will be done over a little less than 2″ instead of the written 3″) because after I do the shaping I just have to knit the front to match the armhole measurement of the back so the pieces will match up 🙂 If I wanted to do more math (which I DO NOT) I could totally adjust the shaping to fit over the 3″ but like I said, I am okay with it being shorter.

Okay, I've made all my changes that I wanted…time to cast on and begin.

What changes are you making?

GOAL FOR WEEK 1!

To maintain a schedule that will get all the pieces complete in time for us to wear this beautiful piece to Thanksgiving Dinner the goal for WEEK 1 is to complete the back of the cardigan. Find the correct cast on number for you and let's start. Join the Ravelry Group to keep us all up to date with your progress and to cheer each other along!

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I figure out the right size for the Lipstick Cardigan?

So here's the thing… you'll want to grab a sweater you already own that fits you perfectly. Then, measure that sweater and compare those measurements to the schematic in the pattern. You can even make adjustments before you start knitting to make sure it's just right for you!

Why would I change the pattern if it's already written correctly?

Honestly… you're putting in all this time and effort to make something beautiful for yourself, right? Why not tweak it just a little so it fits YOU and your style perfectly? It's all about making it your own special piece!

I noticed you changed the front width measurement. Does that mess up the whole pattern?

Yes! Well, sort of… Changing the front width does mean you'll need to adjust the cast-on number and how you shape the neck. But don't worry, it won't affect the side measurements, so you can still follow along with the stitch counts as written for the back and other sections!

What's the goal for Week 1 of this KAL?

Great question! The goal for Week 1 is to complete the back piece of the cardigan. This helps us stay on track so we can all have our beautiful Lipstick Cardigans ready to wear for Thanksgiving Dinner!

I'm not sure what measurements to take on my favorite sweater. What should I do?

Don't sweat it! Just take a peek at the schematic provided in the pattern and take those same measurements on your favorite garment. It's a super simple way to make sure you're comparing apples to apples and getting the fit you want.

Lipstick KAL: Week 1 — Gauge Swatch! Yes, I said the hated word, SWATCH.

Hi everybody, I am thrilled that you are all joining me for the Lipstick KAL. I must say that the Lipstick Cardigan (click here to purchase the pattern)  is one of my favorite designs. Ever since I got it back from my contractor I've wanted to have one of my own. Well, looks like I am going to get one…as long as I can keep up with all of you during this KAL!

My Lipstick is Blue. Specifically, I am using Malabrigo, “Rios” in Bobby Blue

Okay, let's get started shall we? By now I hope all of you have chosen the yarn you wish to use. Now it's important that you do a gauge swatch. Please make a gauge swatch now if you have not.

Things to remember:

1. The Lipstick Cardigan will be somewhat heavy for all the sizes so please be sure to take pre-block, post-block and hanging gauge swatch measurements. All three will be important for you to do all you can to make sure your piece will be finished the way you want.

FINISHED GAUGE

16 sts and 24 rows = 4″ [10 cm] in Stockinette st after blocking

2 reps = 5″ wide x 6″ long in Scroll pat after blocking

I can hear you groaning!

Here is why I am telling you to do more work than (most likely) you have done before for other sweaters, when the pattern says to work in pattern until the piece measures XX” you need to know that XX” pre-block will get a finished blocked gauge of XX”. To use real numbers (note:these are not actual numbers from the pattern): If 12″ pre-block knitting ends up 15″ blocked knitting and you go ahead and knit to the full 12″ pre-block then your sweater is already 3″ too long! See what I mean?

You want your blocked gauge to match the gauge measurement given in the pattern. For the Lipstick, the gauge is what I used to write the pattern and get all the correct finished measurements.

Now, let's talk a little about hanging gauge. Since the cardigan is heavy I think it is important to know just how much YOUR yarn will stretch after a full day of wearing it. Some yarns will not stretch much but others could stretch WAY MORE than you know. Therefore, to best guess-timate the effect gravity will have on your sweater you should do a hanging gauge swatch. You will then compare the blocked gauge to the hanging gauge to see if there is a difference.

If there is a HUGE difference then I would suggest using a different yarn for this project. You don't want your finished cardigan to end up looking like a duster coat by the end of the day, right? Since we are all in agreement on this let's all agree that the hanging gauge is important.

A hanging gauge is simple, after you have measured your blocked swatch clamp it in a pant hanger or anything that will allow the swatch to hang, then pin clothes pins to the bottom of the swatch to simulate gravity. Let it hang for approx. 8 hours (I use this number since most people will wear a piece for around an 8 hour work day). Remove the pins and lay the swatch flat to measure it.

Again, I want to say that if the blocked measurement and the hanging measurement are significantly different (like 2-3″ difference) the yarn you chose might not be the best choice and I would suggest using a different one.

2. Which is more important: Stitch Gauge or Row Gauge? Well, I think the information listed in #1 can tell you that the last thing you want is a larger than listed row gauge. If after doing your swatch you have a spot on stitch gauge but the row gauge is a little smaller I would say that is totally okay. IMHO, getting stitch gauge is more important for this piece.

3. Do you do a gauge swatch for both patterns? YES, you plan on using both in your cardigan, right? Then you must know the gauge measurements for both. Remember, you do this cardigan in pieces so if you get gauge in ST st with size 8/5mm needles but need to go to a larger or smaller needle for the Lace st that is Okay! But you need to know if you need to do that so DO YOUR GAUGE SWATCH! LOL.

Okay, once the gauge swatch is complete let's choose which size to make. I will put that information in the next post 🙂

I really want to see what you are working on so please be sure to join the Ravelry Group!  Let's help one another out and make a great sweater!

Frequently Asked Questions

Why do I have to do a gauge swatch for the Lipstick KAL?

Honestly… I know, I know, swatching isn't everyone's favorite part! But for the Lipstick Cardigan, it's super important because it's a heavier sweater. We need to make sure your finished cardigan will be the size you want it to be after blocking and even after a day of wearing it!

What's the big deal about blocking and hanging gauge?

So here's the thing… blocking and hanging gauge are crucial for this project because the cardigan is heavy. Your knitting might stretch more than you think under its own weight. Checking both pre- and post-block, plus a hanging swatch, helps you see how much your specific yarn might grow, so you don't end up with a cardigan that's way too long!

Is stitch gauge or row gauge more important for this cardigan?

Yes! While both are good to get right, I'd say stitch gauge is a little more critical for the Lipstick Cardigan. If your row gauge is a bit off but your stitch gauge is spot on, you'll likely be just fine. We want to make sure the width is correct, especially!

Do I really need to do a gauge swatch for both the Stockinette and Scroll patterns?

You bet! Since you're planning on using both patterns in your cardigan, you definitely need to know the gauge for each one. It's totally okay if you need different needle sizes for the different stitches… but you won't know unless you swatch!

My hanging gauge swatch stretched a LOT compared to my blocked gauge… what now?

Oh wow… if there's a huge difference, like 2-3 inches, I'd really suggest considering a different yarn. You don't want your beautiful finished cardigan to turn into a super long, droopy piece, right? Choosing a yarn that behaves well when hanging will make all the difference.