Jill Wright, Author at Marly Bird

Crochet Gingham Stitch And Where It Came From

July 1, 2024 By Jill Wright Leave a Comment

If you haven’t yet seen crochet gingham stitch let me tell you a little about it. Basically, it’s an arrangement of solid color squares set out evenly across your crochet fabric. There are more rules to making a gingham fabric, and we’ll cover them in this post. But we’ll start with a little background, because this fun, simple stitch actually developed from woven gingham fabric.

I’ve been obsessed with this plaid crochet look for a while and have used it on several different patterns. Maybe you recognize some of them? Check Me Out Poncho, the Check It Out Scarf, or something less actual gingham plaid crochet and more planned pooling but I love this look too!

6 images of fabrics, including crochet gingham stitch, gingham, tartan, checks, and buffalo check. Marly Bird

What is gingham fabric?

Gingham fabric was originally woven. It has an even warp and weft in two colors. This is weaving speak: meaning there’s the same number of strands of the same color lying along the length of the fabric as there are across the width.

What does that mean?

Let’s say you have 5 white strands, then 5 blue strands alternating across the width of your fabric. Then you work across the fabric with 5 white strands then 5 blue strands, working on the length of your fabric. Where white crosses white, you get white. When blue crosses blue, you get blue. Where white and blue cross, you get a lighter blue.

The original gingham fabric always had white as one color. Most commonly you’d see red and white, or blue and white squared fabric. Now it’s available in a rainbow of colors.

It’s a bright and summery fabric usually made in cotton or a cotton blend. It’s popular for picnics, fun western wear, and fall decorating with bows, ribbons, and more.

Why is gingham so popular?

Gingham was a very popular fabric as an easy-care cotton or cotton blend. For school uniforms in the UK, it was almost a certainty. Part of my middle school uniform was a red & white gingham dress.

It was easy to wear, comfortable, easy to care for, and always looked crisp, neat, and clean.

As with all fashion, gingham’s popularity comes in cycles, though summer and fall seem the most popular seasons for spotting this versatile fabric.

A woman stands outdoors, smiling at the camera, wearing a crocheted poncho featuring a colorful gingham plaid pattern. The poncho has a cowl neck and a variety of hues including purple, green, and blue, creating a cozy and vibrant look. She's accessorized with glasses and has her hair styled up, with a backdrop of tall grasses. Marly Bird Check Me Out Crochet Poncho

What is the difference between gingham, plaid, and tartan?

Whereas gingham has white as one of the colors, plaid has other dominant colors which are normally darker. You’ll always see gingham with regular squares. Small or large, the shapes you’ll see are always squares.

When it comes to plaid, you’ll see stripes within the fabric and there can be more than two colors, especially if you think about tartans.

The colored lines in tartan are planned as squares, and the vertical and horizontal lines are repeated exactly throughout the fabric. But the way the colors play together can sometimes show more as rectangles and stripes.

Tartan is a form of plaid, made popular by the clans in Scotland, but not all plaids are tartans.

So what about checks? Aren’t they squares too?

What is the difference between checks and plaids?

The terms check and plaid are often used interchangeably, but that shouldn’t really be so. Checks are even and symmetrical most commonly using only two colors.

With plaids, the vertical stripes don’t necessarily have to match the horizontal stripes, which means they don’t always look even or perfectly symmetrical.

We’ve all seen the buffalo check. This pattern was made popular by the lumberjack look in red and black. Checks can come in any color combination, but the buffalo check is usually a color together with black.

Light or dark doesn’t really matter with checks, but tartans for Scottish clans have very precise colorways.

But, when you’re working crochet gingham stitch the choice is all yours and yours alone.

So, let’s get back to gingham and crochet…

What is crochet gingham stitch?

The actual stitch pattern can be a simple single or half double crochet, but working in griddle stitch gives it a little bit more texture, which looks absolutely amazing!

You work griddle stitch by alternating single crochet and double crochet stitches. Then, on the return row, you single crochet in each double crochet and double crochet in each single crochet. This effectively scrunches up each double crochet giving that little bit of texture I just mentioned.

Collage featuring a woman modeling a colorful plaid crochet scarf in various poses. The center image shows a close-up of the scarf's texture and pattern. Text at the top reads, "Plaid-look with a Crochet Hook - DIY Plaid Crochet Scarf," and "Marly Bird" is shown at the bottom. -Marly Bird

But what about the crochet gingham stitch look?

The crochet gingham stitch isn’t really about the stitch pattern, but more about the colors. This is where you can really have some fun!

Of course, the colors you use amplify the squared gingham effect. And because you’re not weaving the fabric, but crocheting your gingham look, you’ll need three complementary colors for the original look. White, a mid-color shade, and a darker shade of the same color will give you that perfect gingham.

You’ll be using only two colors in one row (let’s say white and light blue. Work a certain number of stitches in white then change to light blue, carrying your unused yarn along the top of the row you’re working into and working over that yarn, hiding it with your stitches. You’ll continue until you’ve worked to the same height as the width of each color panel (so you have squares in each color).

Once you finish that stripe, you’ll switch colors and work light blue on the white, and blue on the light blue. Again, you’ll work to the same height as the width of each color panel (so you again have squares in each color).

Then, you’ll go back to your first panel colors and keep changing after every stripe as needed. You’ll soon see the pattern forming so you’ll know what’s coming next.

Tips for success with crochet gingham stitch:

Don’t pull your carried yarn too tight, as you’ll pucker your fabric.
Don’t leave your carried yarn too loose, or your extra yarn will stick out between stitches as little loops.

To remedy both of these problems:

Work X number of stitches.
Before you change colors again, check the stitches you just worked.
If it’s too narrow and puckering – release your yarns, and give your work a little tug to even the edges and loosen the pulled yarn.
If you have your contrast yarn color sticking out, gently pull on your non-working yarn until you don’t see that color between the stitches.
Be careful not to pull too tight when beginning your next color.

Now you know about checks, plaid, tartan, gingham, and crochet gingham stitch.

Look out for more of this technique coming soon. You’re going to LOVE it!!!

In the meantime, check out these patterns (some use the gingham crochet technique) and give it a try.

Free plaid patterns to crochet and knit

Free check and block crochet and knitting patterns

And, look up planned pooling! Plaid on the diagonal! How cool is that?

Here’s a few more patterns to check out…

10 Gingham Crochet Pattern images - bag, hat, blankets, Christmas sticking, bottle cozies, family of hats. Marly Bird

Gingham Crochet Christmas Stocking

Crochet Wine Bottle Cozies

Gingham Crochet Blanket

Gingham Corner to Corner Blanket

Gingham Beanies

Spring Date Bag

Buffalo Check Blanket

Buffalo Plaid Pillow

Plaid Look Scarf

Plaid About You Beanie

Flannel Forest Beanie

Happy crocheting!

Cable Knitting Tips For Success

October 25, 2023 By Jill Wright Leave a Comment

Knitted cables stole my heart from a young age. Nothing was more gorgeous to me in knitting than these intricate criss-crossing lines forming fabulous braids and designs. But they looked so difficult. I thought I’d never manage to work them. I’m here to tell you now – they’re simple. There’s a few things you should know, and we’ll answer your questions with some tips. When it comes to cable knitting, tips and tricks are invaluable.

We could write tons about knitting cables from all angles, but in this post, we’ll answer some commonly asked questions or FAQs about knitting cables.

Let’s start at the beginning.

Cable Knitting Tips - 5 images of knitted cables in various colored yarns. Marly Bird

What Are Knitted Cables?

Knitted cables are simply this: groups of knit stitches usually worked on a reverse stockinette stitch background that cross over one another.

That’s it!

All you’re doing as you knit cables is changing the order in which the stitches are worked. This is what makes the stitches cross over one another and form these luscious relief patterns.

Now, at first, you may find this a little difficult. You’ll feel like you’re juggling with the stitches and that you really don’t want to have to slide them off your needle without working them. But that’s all you’re doing – changing the order of the stitches before you work them. You can do this with or without a cable needle, and we’ll discuss both methods in a little bit.

Neat Cable Knitting Tips

Cables look best when the stitches are even across the whole cable. But beginners and experienced knitters often find that the outside stitches of their cables are a little looser than they’d like. This is caused at two points: when the yarn is moved from front to back (between purl stitches and knit stitches), and the opposite, from back to front (between knit and purl stitches).

At these points, when you’re moving your yarn between two stitch types, make sure you pull the yarn a little tighter for your next two stitches. We say two stitches because, after these two stitches, there’s less chance of the yarn loosening after two stitches than after just one. This will ensure you don’t have any extra yarn between your stitches – that’s what causes the loopy look or larger stitches on the outsides of your cable.

How Do You Prevent Holes In Knitting Cables?

Preventing holes when knitting cables is similar to my answer for working cables neatly. During the yarn transition to either front or back, you need to pull it a little more snugly than you normally would.

Another method for preventing holes in cable knitting is to not push the just completed stitch all the way onto your right needle until the next stitch is also complete. Keep the recently completed stitch or two on the sloped tip of your right-hand needle, which is a little narrower. This reduces the amount of spare yarn and keeps your cables neat and hole-free.

How Do You Knit Cables For Beginners?

My suggestion for beginner cable knitters is to use a cable needle to change the location of your stitches. Yes, this adds another needle to juggle in that tight spot, but it’s better than trying a slightly more advanced cable method of not using a cable needle at all.

You have several cable needle options. Cable needles are short knitting needles, usually around 5” long, with a point at each end. You normally find them in packs of two or 3 sizes (thicknesses). You also have three different shape options – all have points at both ends. They come completely straight, straight at each end with a bump or curve in the center, or U-shaped.

You may like to try all the options to see which type you prefer. For speed, I prefer straight ones, which you do have to hold close to your working stitches. But with the U-shape, you can actually let go of the cable needle. Letting the whole needle hang down, holding the stitches you’re moving secure while you work other stitches, is quite comforting.

Here’s an awesome video about knitting cables with a cable needle.

Are Cables Hard To Knit?

As an experienced knitter, I ADORE cables!

Are they hard to knit? No, not really.

As I said earlier, you’re just switching the order of the stitches you’re knitting, so in that sense, they’re easy. Everything takes a little practice. The more cables you knit, the better, neater, and quicker you’ll get.

Start with vertical rope cables – those that go straight up and down with only one type or direction of cross-over (knit stitches over knit stitches). Then, try crossing in the other direction.

Once you have simple rope cables down, try honeycomb cables. Honeycomb cable stitch patterns require you to cross stitches in both directions, but they’re still knit stitches over knit stitches.

After you’ve nailed these, you might want to branch out and try more complex cables, such as traveling cables, which can move across the whole width of your project or back and forth.

Traveling cables also require you to cross knit stitches over purl stitches. This means you need to follow your charts or patterns very carefully to ensure you work the right stitch in the right place.

5 types of knitted cables: traveling, braided, seed stitch, basic left leaning and right leaning, and honeycomb. Marly Bird

Here’s a few more cable knitting tips…

Does Cable Knitting Use More Yarn?

In short – yes – cable knitting does use more yarn. The reason is that in addition to working both knit and purl in the same row (like ribbing), you’re crossing stitches over one another. This narrows your finished fabric even more. You’re going to need extra stitches to knit the width you need.

If you worked swatches of the same stitch count in stockinette stitch, ribbing, and cables, you’ll find the cabled swatch may be closer to the ribbing width, depending on how many cables you use and how wide the cables are. 4 stitches over 4 stitches is going to narrow the fabric more than 2 stitches over 2 stitches.

Think of it this way. Stockinette stitch is flat. Ribbing has relief and is sometimes considerably narrower, depending on which ribbing stitch count you use, but it’s very stretchy. With cables, you have both knit and purl stitches and a relief pattern with stitches crossing over each other. Where the stitches cross, you actually have a double layer of stitches.

If you love cables, it’s absolutely worth the work. Try it and see!

Need More Cable Knitting Tips?

Let’s answer a few more questions for you.

And, if you need even more help, join the Marly Bird Facebook Group! There are loads of people in there eager to help and answer all of your cable knitting and other knitting questions.

How Do You Make Knitted Cables Stand Out?

Knitted cables stand out when they’re on a background of reverse stockinette stitch. So, since your cables are almost always in the knit stitch, they pop to the front of your work. Purl stitches always recede into the background.

If you work knit cables on a knit background, they’ll blend in and look like folds or creases in a knit fabric rather than the proud cables they should be.

What Is The Best Yarn For Knitting Cables?

I like to suggest wool or wool blends for cables since they are a bit more ‘sticky’ than man-made fibers. Cotton and cotton blends also work well, but cotton has less stretch so it can be harder to get those edge stitches of each cable nice and snug and neat.

Should You Block Cable Knits?

Yes – cable knitting should be blocked for best results.

BUT NOTE: Make sure you swatch in the knit cable pattern BEFORE starting your project. Make sure you get gauge BEFORE you start your project. You don’t want to get to the end of a knitted cables project only to find it’s too small. Heavy blocking can’t correct size with cables, and you’ll lose all that beautiful texture!

Do Cables Make Knitting Smaller?

YES – knitting cables considerably narrows your knitting and can shorten it too. As I just said, you MUST swatch first, block, and then measure to be sure you meet the gauge BEFORE you start knitting your project. It’s much better to work this way to avoid disappointment.

Do You Need A Cable Needle To Knit Cables?

No – you can knit cables without a cable needle.

I always thought I’d never do this, but for narrower cables, I do work without a cable needle. I find it quicker and easier.

But once you’re switching more than two or three stitches per cable, I strongly suggest you use a cable needle. If you don’t, you’ll spend more time picking up dropped stitches than knitting. Ask me how I know.

How to work cables without a cable needle.

Cable Knitting Tips: Cables In The Round

You need to be particularly aware when you knit cables in the round if you’re using charts. When knitting flat, you read charts from right to left on odd rows and left to right on even rows. When it comes to knitting in rounds, you always see the right side of your work. This means you always read the chart from right to left on EVERY round.

How Do You Know When You’re On A Cable Row or Round?

Well, I have just the video for you that explains this very thing.

Check it out below!

Recognizing A Cable Row

I hope you’ve enjoyed learning our cable knitting tips.

If you’d like to practice what you’ve just learned, be sure to click on these pattern links below. We have lots of advanced beginner patterns for cable knitting, so you can put your new skills to work right away.

Let’s get knitting cables!

Don’t forget to join the Facebook Group and share pictures of your projects!

Cable Knit Cardigan Patterns

Knit And Crochet Ponchos And Capes

Knit Hat Patterns For Men

Knitting Twisted Stitches: Tips and Techniques

September 4, 2023 By Jill Wright Leave a Comment

You might think knitting twisted stitches is accidental, and maybe sometimes it is. But I’m here to tell you that twisted stitches have been around in knitting for a long, long time. They’re not going anywhere…except they should be in your knitting techniques arsenal!

It’s a simple technique to learn, and it’s great looking too!

My first introduction to twisted stitches was when I learned to knit (many years ago.) My mom used to knit twisted stitch ribs because that’s what her mom used to do. She didn’t think of it as unusual. But I wondered why she did that when it wasn’t written into the pattern. My guess is back then, they wanted the ribs at the start of their sweaters to be more snug.

She only twisted the right-side knit stitches but did it on every row. This gave the rib what I can only describe as a half-twisted look. It helped draw in the knit rib somewhat but didn’t make it too stiff.

It wasn’t until much later that I discovered knitting twisted stitches as a design feature. I began to experiment with the differences they made in patterning, especially when included with cables or lace.

3 image collage of knitting twisted stitches. Top 2 show twisted stitches on alternate rows and an incorrectly seated knit stitch on needle, bottom image shows Mistletoe Knit Lace Blanket including intentional twisted knit stitches. Marly Bird

What Is A Twisted Stitch, And Why Are My Knit Stitches Twisted?

A twisted knit stitch can be a stitch sitting the wrong way on the needle. Or it can be the way your work the stitch on the needle. If your stitch is already seated incorrectly on the needle, that has more to do with your technique or knitting style. Throwing (English style knitting) or picking (Continental style knitting) can both result in twisted stitches.

Think of any knit stitch as an arch or rainbow over your needle. A correctly seated stitch will have the right end of the arch at the front and the left end at the back of your needle. Anything other than that look means your stitch is twisted.

How Do You Fix A Twisted Stitch?

It’s easy to fix a twisted stitch if it’s still on your left needle. Slip the twisted stitch onto your right needle and then replace it on the left needle in the correct orientation. See bold above.

Marly further discusses twisted stitches and fixing them in this blog post about knitting for crocheters.

If your twisted stitch is lower down your work, it’s a little more difficult but still fixable.

How Do I Know If A Stockinette Stitch Is Twisted?

There’s a subtle difference between a regular knit stitch and a twisted knit stitch. If you see something that stands out in a sea of stockinette, it’s likely a stitch you’ve twisted accidentally.

Stockinette stitch is a series of stacked knit stitches visible on one side of the fabric. It looks like a sea of Vs joined in columns and rows. Each knit stitch V shape sits neatly inside and just above the V of the stitch below. The lower points of the V meet and sit side by side but don’t cross.

Twisted knit stitches show up in the same position as regular knit stitches do, but notice the lower points of the V are crossed or twisted.

Here’s how to untwist a stitch farther down your work without unpicking it all.

Mark the stitch that’s twisted using a lockable stitch marker.
Work across the row to the stitch column where you see the twisted stitch.
Drop the next stitch off the needle and run it down to the stitch marker.
Make sure the marked stitch is facing you.
Insert a crochet hook into the marked stitch with the hook facing upward.
Hook the yarn bar immediately above the marked stitch and pull the bar through the stitch, forming a new stitch.
Repeat step 6 until the stitch column is worked back up to the current row.
Slip the remaining stitch onto the left needle with the left end or leg of the rainbow to the back and the right leg to the front of your needle.

At 1:21 Marly discusses twisted stitches, how to recognize them, and how to fix them.

Knitting Twisted Stitches On Purpose

When you mean to knit twisted stitches, it’s very simple. When they’re in the right place and worked evenly they can make a real statement. Here’s what you do.

Insert tip of right-hand needle purlwise (from right to left) into the back of next stitch on left-hand needle.
Complete knit stitch by wrapping yarn from back to front around tip of right-hand needle, pull loop through to front. Hold stitch on right-hand needle. Slip stitch off left-hand needle.
Repeat steps 1 & 2 for each twisted knit stitch.

Why Knit Twisted Stitches?

Twisted stitches are a simple but effective decorative knitting stitch. Using them at the leading edge of lace patterning really defines the direction the stitch column is moving. For example, it makes the edges of lace leaves or trellises more clear and defined.

You can use twisted stitches to give cables extra definition. They really make cables stand out, especially if you use them for narrow two-stitch cables. Traveling cables and stacked columns of twisted knit stitches shine. You’ll find many sock patterns using this technique of neat vertical lines for outstanding patterning down the legs.

Twisted stitches stand out beautifully from a reverse stockinette background as the twisting adds depth to the stitches.

You can use twisted knit stitches to draw in your knitting. Twisted ribs are narrower than regular ribs due to the extra twist in each RS knit stitch. If you twist ALL stitches (including purl sts on every row), the resulting fabric is even firmer and narrower.

Need More Input?

If you need more information about twisted stitches or using twisted stitches with lace, check out the links below.

How to knit lace with twisted stitches describes the history of lace, and problems you might encounter while knitting lace.

Knitting definitions will take you to our list of references and abbreviations you might find in patterns. It’s a great resource to bookmark and refer to regularly.

You might need to learn to tink back one stitch at a time. If you’ve made a mistake a little way back, or just a couple of rows back, try it out.

You should really check out the Mistletoe Knit Lace Blanket! It’s a gorgeous FREE knit lace blanket pattern! You’ll find lace and twisted stitches here to give you some practice.

Click over to these other knitting and crochet techniques you may need to learn. Find links to videos and other useful knitting and crochet information.

Knit and Crochet Vest Patterns – Stunning AND Armless!

September 2, 2023 By Jill Wright Leave a Comment

Do you love working on the body of garments and then dread having to deal with sleeves? At the start, you’re excited to just get going on the back, and then you’re all thrilled when you’re finished with the second front. But, if you’re up for a quick finish and still have sleeves to work…then block…then sew in. Oh man, will you be excited about these knit and crochet vest patterns?

Vests aren’t only stylish and a real personality statement, but that’s right – they don’t have sleeves!

I remember a certain person calling me up one day super excited about having a design accepted to a magazine, then saying…”But you’ll have to help me – how do you do a sleeve?”

None of that problem here!

Collage of 10 images of knit and crochet vest patterns with links on this post. Men's and women's patterns. Marly Bird

So knit and crochet vests have no sleeves. So, what? What’s so great about vests?

Well, let me tell you…

Why Wear A Vest?

Vests keep you warmer than you think despite their lack of sleeves. The body likes to keep its core temperature stable and pulls blood from the extremities. Conversely, it sends that lovely warm blood back out to those fingers and toes, doing its job perfectly.

Are You A Lady Of A Certain Age?

You know what I mean? Once we females get to a certain age, hormones can kick in and overheat us at the drop of a hat. If you’re not there yet – look out! Hot flashes can hit at any time, leaving you struggling to rip off any outer garments as fast as possible. You fumble around and grab something, anything, to frantically wave in front of your face to try to cool those sky-rocketing hormones.

Seriously, IYKYK! I wouldn’t wish it on anyone!

In this case, vests are an absolute Godsend! No sleeves = less struggling and quicker cooling!

Are Vests In Fashion?

I think there’s always a style of vest that is in fashion. No matter the hem length or design, there’s always a vest that hits the mark. And, of course, personal preference and personal style are key.

If you love the Fair Isle British sweater vest with a passion, but your friend prefers the swing drape style – who cares? You do you! Each to his/her own! There are no rules in fashion. We’re all our own person, and that’s the way it should be. The world would be a very boring place if we all loved the same things! Right?

Is Wearing A Vest Casual?

It can be. It depends on the vest style and the situation. Suit vests are definitely a more formal look, but this look can still be created with knit and crochet vests.

Knit and crochet vest patterns tend to be less formal, but the perfect vest for you can dress up or dress down your outfit depending on how you pair things.

A drapey knit or crochet vest can look fabulous over a dress just as well as it can a pair of shorts, dress pants, or jeans.

You can wear a vest in the office, at home, or to a Baseball game or a wedding. They’re an amazingly versatile garment. I love slipping on a vest when hopping in the car to deliver my youngest to school when it’s just a bit chilly.

Anyway, I think it’s about time I let you loose on this collection of patterns we collected for you!

Most are FREE! You’ll find more from the Marly Bird pattern collection linked at the end of this post.

So, check them out!

We have lots of different styles for all tastes!

Crochet Vest Patterns

Whether you love the close fit, cropped versions, or long loose, drapey, or collared… we’ve got you covered! Make sure to click through and download the ones you like.

Fall is on its way. Don’t you need an extra layer that’s perfectly you?

Photo collage of 14 women's crochet vest patterns available through links on this page. Marly Bird

Seashell Crochet Vest

Radiant Ripple Vest

Women’s Knit Vest Patterns

Looking for a women’s knit vest pattern with buttons, loose, belted, solid, A-line? They’re all here. Really, there’s something for all ages and sizes right here. I think we have many yarn weights covered too!

Take your time – pick the one that’s right for you. I know I already have!

Collage of 15 women's knit vets patterns available through links on this page. Marly Bird

Turtleneck With Side Slits

Hooded Cable Vest

Celtic Cable Vest

Men’s Knit Vest Patterns

We can’t leave out the guys! Nope! They need to be warm/cool too! Nothing beats an extra layer on the way to work when the thermometer dips! Be kind to your guys! Show them some love.

Collage of 6 men's knit vests. Marly Bird

Country Gentleman Vest

Dad’s Cabled Vest

I KNOW you found something you like! Now, who will you make it for?

Got Yarn?

As you know, we love yarns from WeCrochet. They have an incredible selection of yarn weights and gorgeous colors that would be perfect in any of these knit and crochet vest patterns.

Good for you if you bought yarn in their summer sale a couple of months back! If you didn’t…go check out their beautiful yarn collection right now. You deserve a treat!

I’ll give you a hint…here are some of their self-confessed favorites…and I must admit I agree with them!

Looking For Marly’s Vest Patterns?

Here are a few you should check out. They’re true classics that stand the test of time.

11 Knit Vest Patterns by Marly Bird They’re listed as spring/summer vest patterns, but honestly, you can wear them any time you like! There are no vest time-wearing rules I know of.

Here’s a book of crochet vests that rocks! Great styles by Abbey Swanson!

And I LOVE this men’s knit sweater vest! Soooo classic!

So many choices so little time.

I guess it’s time to get to work!

Happy knitting and crocheting vests!!!

12 Ways To Customize Knit Hats!

August 26, 2023 By Jill Wright Leave a Comment

It’s true. There are dozens of knit hat patterns all over the internet. And I’m sure you have your favorite go-to, must-make basic hat pattern that you make over and over. You use your favorite needles and yarn weight, and you virtually know the pattern without even looking. But once in a while, you feel like you just need that little bit extra, that added touch, that’s just not included in the pattern. That’s why we’ve dreamed up some really cute ways for you to customize your knit hats.

Let’s get to it!

Customize knit hats - patterns available from Marly Bird: Entrelac, cables, stockinette, fair isle, branch cable, stranded colorwork, and more.

Customize Knit Hats While You’re Knitting

What do I mean by that? Well, many people buy the exact same color as is used in the pattern image, but guess what? You can choose any color you like in the same brand or weight of yarn!

Yep – you have my permission! Go wild! Choose the color you really want!

Start In A Different Color, Or Just Add Rows

Try adding a cuff in a contrasting color that you can either fold over onto the outside or wear as a long slouch style. Yes, even adding length to a regular knit hat pattern can make it look different.

Add A Stripe Or Two

Nothing is stopping you from adding in another color.

GASP!

Yes – go for it! Choose a crazy contrast and knit it in for a few rows, then change back to the original color, or don’t…the choice is yours!

You could make it a rainbow knit hat if you have enough shades. Or, try shading through 4-5 colors, from dark to light or light to dark.

Fibonacci is something to think about. Have you heard the name? It’s a math thing (add two consecutive numbers to get the next number in the sequence, i.e., 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, etc.), but the reasoning behind it gives a very pleasing stripe pattern.

Change Needle Size

Here’s a thought…if you’re knitting from the bottom up, use the regular size needles for a couple of inches so you form a cuff, then switch up a few needle sizes for a looser, more slouchy body and crown.

Add A Knit Or Crochet Border

There are loads of fancy knit or crochet edgings you could add…especially on the edge of a fold-up cuff. That would make a pretty, feminine edge on a regular basic knit hat.

Add Ear Flaps And Twisted Cords Or Braids

I know I know…it may not look so cool, but man, earflaps rock when the temps drop!

And, you never know quite how hard that wind is gonna blow, so hang onto your knit hat with ties, cords, or braids. Kids look so cute in these Nordic-style earflap hats! Not to mention, they’re super warm!

Try Duplicate Stitch On A Basic Knit Hat

Link to video of how to work knit duplicate stitch. Marly Bird

If you haven’t heard of duplicate stitches, it’s a way of sewing over knit stitches to make them look like they were knitted that way in a contrasting color.

It’s like a different way of working fair isle or a fair isle style single motif or shape in a contrasting color onto a pre-knitted hat or other piece of knitwear.

You can just make a graph of your own image that you want to transfer or search for a pattern you’d like online.

You can see how to work duplicate stitches in my video here.

Knit Hat Customizations To Sew On (Or In)

There are countless embellishments you can sew onto your handmade knit hats. Just take a walk through craft stores, or search online, and you’ll find all kinds of gizmos you can add to make your knit hats really stand out from the crowd.

Sew In A Lining

If you’re handy with a needle and thread or a sewing machine, and you live where it gets REALLY cold, you might want to make a fleece lining and sew it into your hand-knit hat! Fleece is so soft and warm as soon as you slip it on, so that would be a great option for colder climes.

Sew On PomPoms, Or Tassels

I know you’ve seen me using fur pompoms on my knit hat patterns. Don’t you think they’re cool? I love them. They really give knit hats a classy look!

Here’s how you sew on pompoms or tassels!

You can buy fur pompoms through this link.

Try it, I know you’ll love it!

You could also sew on a tassel to top off your hat! Tassels are fun too. You can buy some really cute tassels here, or you can make your own in whatever color you want. Just use some of your leftover yarn in the same color as your hat or in a contrasting color.

If you’re feeling inclined, you can even make your own pompoms too. Same thing as making tassels – use your leftover yarn in whatever color you fancy.

What’s stopping you from adding more than one pompom or tassel? NOTHING!

It’s your knit hat – you embellish your knit hat your way!

More Sew-on Ideas To Customize Knit Hats

See? I told you there were tons of ways to embellish your knit hats! Here are a few more things you can sew on to make your hats your own.

Motifs

If you’re Bi-crafty – a crocheter too – you can work up motifs in whatever shape you want to add to your knit hat. There’s no rules saying you can’t mix and match crochet with knits and vice versa.

Some great choices for sew-on hat embellishments might be:

Motifs (any shape)
Crochet flowers
Bows
Numbers or letters (for sports teams)
Buttons or rhinestones (of any shape or size)
Eyes (handmade or sew-on googly)
Patches (ready-made/embroidered)

And, If You’re Really Feeling Funky And Fun…

Knit or crochet some ears to sew onto a hat. I know…crazy, right? But it’s fun! And kids love hats with ears! Don’t they?

It could be as easy as knitting or crocheting triangles and gathering them at the base of the triangle to sew onto the top of a hat to give a feline look.

Or you could try making longer floppy dog ears made from fur yarn too!

Think outside the box!

Use your imagination to customize knit hats in your own way!

Have some knitting fun with these other pages that might interest you!

Check out more knit hats from me, Marly Bird!

Here’s an awesome knit poppy pattern video.

Are you a Double Dipper?

Crochet Yarn Over Or Yarn Under?

August 21, 2023 By Jill Wright Leave a Comment

(YO -vs- YU – The Great Debate)

Have you heard about this great discussion in the crochet world? It’s pretty recent in terms of crochet history, but it sure is rocking the boat. Yeah – the one about crochet yarn over or yarn under!

Well, let’s dive in and see if we can figure out the big deal about the whole debate because there are always two sides to every story.

Black background with 2 single crochet hearts. Peach color on left worked in yarn over single crochet, lavender heart on right worked in yarn under single crochet. Test asking question: Do you crochet yarn over or yarn under? Marly Bird

How Did You Learn To Crochet?

If you, like me, learned to crochet what feels like eons ago, you’d have likely learned from your grandma or, as I did, from an elderly lady who lived down the street from me. She was super-friendly and was thrilled that I was interested in learning a life skill from her that she so obviously LOVED dearly.

She crocheted what seemed like ALL-THE-TIME! She’d crochet for charity, for friends, and for neighbors. She’d even save those plastic circles that hold cans of sodas, beers, or Gatorades together and crochet around those to make table centerpieces. They were beautiful!

Chances are, she’d also learned from her Grandma or some other relative or friend. It was a way for the older, skilled crafters to pass on their knowledge to others in person and socially.

Now, we have so many other ways to share our teaching and learning through watching crochet videos, perusing images and ‘shorts’ online, and from crochet books, so learning to crochet in person has fallen away…somewhat.

But, I digress…

Is There A Correct Way To Crochet?

I’m trying to get at here that historically there was only one way to work crochet stitches, which was taught as the ‘correct’ way, and that was to work your crochet yarn over (YO) the hook.

Working a crochet yarn over (YO) means taking the yarn from below, up behind the hook, over the top to the front under the hooked end, then pulling that strand through the loops on the hook to complete your stitch.

I remember when I was first learning and hadn’t picked up my crochet for a while, I’d sometimes forget and crochet yarn under the hook, but it didn’t feel quite right.

There’s a certain feel and flow to crocheting that builds over time as you learned to speed up, then it becomes second nature. Now I can crochet basic stitches while watching tv, feeling for the holes and knowing instinctively if my hook’s in the right spot or if the yarn has split, but it’s almost 50 years since I first began my crochet journey.

What’s The New Crochet Way?

The more recent growth of amigurumi has brought to light the crochet yarn under the hook method of making single crochet stitches.

The object in amigurumi is to make the stitches tight and uniform to reduce the chances of stuffing wriggling through and gaps between stitches. In order to close up these gaps, many who crochet amigurumi have adopted the crochet yarn under (YU) technique.

You work a yarn under (YU) by bringing the yarn to the front under the hook, twisting the hook to grab the yarn from above, then pulling that strand through the loops on the hook to complete your stitch.

Does The Crochet Yarn Over Direction Matter?

In short – yes!

There are differences between using yarn over and under. Let’s look at single crochet, the most commonly used stitch for the YU technique!

Yarn Over (YO):	Yarn Under (YU):
Uses more yarn	Uses less yarn
Produces a taller stitch	Produces a shorter stitch
May leave small gaps in your work (depending on the hook-to-yarn ratio)	Leaves little to no gaps in your work
Produces a slightly looser fabric	Produces a tighter, firmer fabric
Stitches slant slightly	Less stitch slant
Creates a V on the Right Side of the fabric	Creates an X on the Right Side of the fabric (WS looks the same as YO)
Natural arm/wrist movement	Unnatural arm/wrist movement
Easier to work	Harder to work¹

Single Crochet Stitch Yarn Over/Yarn Under Comparison

So, What Is The Best Single Crochet For Amigurumi?

The answer is…it really is a personal preference. It depends on several things. Here’s a list of things to consider when you’re deciding which single crochet version to use for your crochet project:

How do you want your fabric to look? Do you like the X stitch or the V? Do you like your stitches tighter//more snug? Are you working flat or in the round? (Yes – that makes the biggest difference in single crochet.)

How do you want to work your fabric? Do you find one or the other easier to work, or does working the crochet yarn over or yarn under hurt your hand or wrist? Pick the way that’s more comfortable for you.

How big do you want your amigurumi to be? Of course, you can always change your yarn or hook size to adjust the size of your creation instead of changing the stitch itself. The choice is yours alone.

Is speed a factor? Do you want to produce things fast? Then use the method you know and are more comfortable with. There are no hard, fast rules.

Does the yarn amount matter to you? Use the crochet yarn under technique. You won’t save skeins; only a few yards per piece. Obviously, here project size matters. The larger the project, the more you save by going under. Does yarn under use less yarn? Yes, but with the size of amigurumi pieces usually being small, you’re not really going to save substantial amounts of yarn.

Will You Choose Crochet Yarn Over Or Yarn Under?

Well, there you have it! It’s all here for you to draw your own conclusions.

Purists will say you should crochet yarn over because it’s correct.

Amigurumi crocheters may say they like to crochet yarn under because they prefer the results for their particular use.

Crocheters Beware!

Now, if you start to adopt the yarn under technique for any stitches other than single crochet in amigurumi, look out!

Check back to the comparison section above and think about it. Your stitches will become shorter and tighter, you may not get gauge so easily, and you won’t be happy with your garments, especially if you want a drape.

Working yarn under will make any long stitches work out shorter and firmer, so crochet lace won’t look nearly so good, or hang as well, as when using yarn overs to form your crochet stitches.

If you have problems with crochet gauge now, pay attention to how you work your stitches. Are you inadvertently working your stitches with the YU technique? Has discovering this solved your gauge problems immediately?

You’re welcome!

Be sure to check out Marly’s brand new pattern – SPARKLE THE UNICORN! Sooooo CUTE!!!

Crochet unicorn amigurumi stuffie - Sparkle the Unicorn - white, with yellow, pink, blue mane and tail. Pattern available from Marly Bird.

Available free in the blog post and also as an ad-free PDF!

Also, check out:

Alden the Owl

Felix the Fox

Why Is Amigurumi So Popular?

Magical Knit And Crochet Unicorn Patterns You Can’t Live Without!

Any questions? Get chatting in the Facebook Group.

And if you need VIDEO HELP, here’s Marly’s YouTube Channel!

CROCHET ON!

Depending on how you learned to crochet. ↩︎