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Extended Single Crochet Stitch

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Technique_Tuesday

Learn the Extended Single Crochet Stitch (Exsc) in today’s Technique Tuesday!

This extended single crochet stitch is a great one to use when making a fabric that you want to have some drape or flexibility added to a simple single crochet. I’ve used it a lot when making crocheted socks (patterns coming soon). I first was introduced to it when I was taking a class with the amazing Robyn Chachula. She told me that by using the extended single crochet instead of just the single crochet when making socks the wearer has a more comfortable experience when walking in the socks.

The extended single crochet is made by adding a chain stitch to the single crochet to extend the stitch and make it a bit more flat and less bulky.

extended single crochet stitch

For the video example follow these instructions:

Chain any multiple of you wish for the example.

Foundation Row:

Insert your hook in the 2nd chain from hook (the chain stitched will NOT count as a stitch),

*Yarn over your hook and pull up a loop [2 loops on your hook],

Yarn over your hook and draw thru 1 loop on hook [2 loops on hook still…but you have now created a chain stitch],

Yarn over your hook and draw thru 2 loops on hook to complete the extended single crochet.

Now, repeat the instructions from * in each chain to the end of your row to complete a row of extended single crochet stitches.

Chain 1 and turn.

Next Row:

*Insert your hook in the stitch,

Yarn over your hook and pull up a loop [2 loops on your hook],

Yarn over your hook and draw thru 1 loop on hook [2 loops on hook still],

Yarn over your hook and draw thru 2 loops on hook to complete the extended single crochet.

Repeat from * in each stitch to the end of your row to complete the row.

Chain 1 and turn.

Repeat the last row until you have the desired length of your piece. Finish off.

See, SIMPLE!

I hope you enjoy the video and will click subscribe to be up to date whenever there is a new video released 🙂

xoxo

Marly Bird

Ysolda, Knitwear Designer and Author

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Ysolda, Knitwear Designer and Author was the Guest to open October on the Yarn Thing podcast with Marly Bird.

YsoldaTYsolda Teague revealed a big secret, but when she learned to knit at age 7, she hated it. One of those ‘throw it across the room’ in frustration episodes. When she was a teenager, she was approached by another student as ‘Your the crafty one, can you make me a hat’ and in the end she loved it and was on to make a jumper (or sweater). When she went to University, she made a How-to booklet for all of her friends and realized that she had been twisting all of her purl stitches all along…

Ysolda posted her finished projects on Craftster… Remember Craftster? She was often asked for the pattern. Her first pattern was published in Knitty and realized when a few people made her project, she found her people! That pattern she drew out on graph paper and then counted every stitch, grading by hand.

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Ysolda created a chart for sizing that designers find helpful. It’s important to her that multiple sizes fit correctly in smaller as well as larger. She finds that a lot of sizing charts are outdated, based on measurements from decades ago. Knitting patterns are based on a different set of standards as well, and still standards don’t take into account things like shoulders. This is a current project of concern for her.

Ravelry has been wonderful and surprising for Ysolda in that it has been a great boon for her pattern sales, but also in that just when she thinks everything has been done, something new and different comes along. She now has over a hundred patterns listed there, CLICK HERE to view the list.

Last year, The Rhinebeck Sweater collection was created by Ysolda to gather favorite designers and create pieces inspired by the yearly gatherings, the yarns, colors and fibers found there.

Follow Your Arrow Shawl was Ysolda’s project, a Mystery Knit – A – Long that consisted of 5 intriguing clues with two options, which meant the end results were ENDLESS as is apparent because nearly 3,500 projects are listed in Ravelry. She also created a collection of pieces to knit for babies, Wee Ones, for which the idea came to her by projects people knit of her patterns. Of the babies used as models she says her ‘friends make really cute babies!’ which is always great inspiration.

KNITWORTHY is a new subscription pattern service she’s begun available through Ravelry to replace the ‘Ugly Christmas Jumper’ Holiday knitting. So far, three patterns have been revealed but it promises to be ideal patterns to warm the ones you love.

Ysolda has a really sweet blog at https://ysolda.com/

Lipstick KAL: Week 1–Choosing the RIGHT Size

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Lipstick KAL: Choosing the Right Size for YOUR Lipstick

If you have taken my Curvy Knits class either at STITCHES or on CRAFTSY you know that choosing the right size all begins with what you already have in your closet!

To choose the correct size Lipstick for YOU we are going to take the measurements of a piece you have in your closet. Right now, go to your closet and choose a garment that you like the fit of and want the Lipstick Cardigan to fit like. For me, I chose a sweater that is a little snug around my body from my waist up (in all the Stockinette stitch portions of the sweater I am making) knowing that the band around the lower half of the Lipstick will have a good amount of ease. I think it is more important to have the body FIT correctly.

Here is mine:

I took a variety of measurements. If you are not sure what measurements to take I would take a look at the schematic and take those same measurements on your favorite garment. Once you have the favorite garment measurements you can compare them to the ones on the schematic and make any adjustments you might want to make.

I can hear you thinking, “Why would I make adjustments to this pattern? Is it not written correctly?” Well, of course it is written correctly. BUT, if you are going to take the time to make something for YOU why not make sure it is going to fit YOU the way YOU like it to fit? Now is the time to make any changes you might want so that when you are finished with YOUR Lipstick you are pleased with it. And, if you are like me and spent a pretty penny on the yarn I am sure you want your cardigan to fit GREAT!

You can see on my schematic I have highlighted all the measurements that pertain to the size I am making (2x) and a few notes for areas that I plan on making changes to have the cardigan better fit ME!

One of the changes I am making for mine is the front width. As written the fronts are 1/2 the back measurements which will work, but I know that for me if my fronts are less than half and the trim makes up for the area left open it looks better on me. SO, the schematic shows that the fronts for the 2x should be 12 1/2″ but I am changing mine to be 10 1/2″.

Making this change will change the number of stitches that I will need to cast on for the fronts and it will also change the rate of neck shaping but it will not change any of the side/row measurements so I will be able to follow the instructions for the 2x size whenever I am working to measurements. I’ve gone ahead and made the changes in the pattern before I begin to make sure that I don’t get carried away and forget to make the changes.

Note: I have highlighted the cast on number I am using for the left front but I also highlighted the 2x measurements to remind me of which ones I am using … I love visual cues! 

Specifically, for my changes I am going to cast on for the 10 1/2 inches (44 sts) follow the pattern same as the back to the armhole, then work the same armhole instructions as for the back and evenly for 3 1/2″ which is what the instructions say to do for my size. Because I cast on fewer stitches than the 2x size suggested but still followed the armhole instructions for the 2x I will have fewer stitches on my needle after the armhole shaping than written for either the 2x or the large (28 sts remain).

So I will need to also adjust the number of times I decrease to shape the front neck so that my shoulder stitches will match up front to back. There are 18 sts at the back shoulder for the 2x so if I have 28 sts after my armhole shaping I need to eliminate 10 sts at the front neck edge so that my front shoulder will match my back shoulder. Which means I will only work my decreases 10 times total instead of the written number.

I am not too concerned about this making the shaping shorter than written (it will be done over a little less than 2″ instead of the written 3″) because after I do the shaping I just have to knit the front to match the armhole measurement of the back so the pieces will match up 🙂 If I wanted to do more math (which I DO NOT) I could totally adjust the shaping to fit over the 3″ but like I said, I am okay with it being shorter.

Okay, I’ve made all my changes that I wanted…time to cast on and begin.

What changes are you making?

GOAL FOR WEEK 1!

To maintain a schedule that will get all the pieces complete in time for us to wear this beautiful piece to Thanksgiving Dinner the goal for WEEK 1 is to complete the back of the cardigan. Find the correct cast on number for you and let’s start. Join the Ravelry Group to keep us all up to date with your progress and to cheer each other along!

Lipstick_Rav_3

 

Lipstick KAL: Week 1– GAUGE SWATCH

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Lipstick KAL: Week 1 — Gauge Swatch! Yes, I said the hated word, SWATCH.

Lipstick_Rav_3 Lipstick_Rav_1 LIpstick_Rav_2

Hi everybody, I am thrilled that you are all joining me for the Lipstick KAL. I must say that the Lipstick Cardigan (click here to purchase the pattern)  is one of my favorite designs. Ever since I got it back from my contractor I’ve wanted to have one of my own. Well, looks like I am going to get one…as long as I can keep up with all of you during this KAL!

My Lipstick is Blue. Specifically, I am using Malabrigo, “Rios” in Bobby Blue

Okay, let’s get started shall we? By now I hope all of you have chosen the yarn you wish to use. Now it’s important that you do a gauge swatch. Please make a gauge swatch now if you have not.

Things to remember:

1. The Lipstick Cardigan will be somewhat heavy for all the sizes so please be sure to take pre-block, post-block and hanging gauge swatch measurements. All three will be important for you to do all you can to make sure your piece will be finished the way you want.

FINISHED GAUGE

16 sts and 24 rows = 4″ [10 cm] in Stockinette st after blocking

2 reps = 5″ wide x 6″ long in Scroll pat after blocking

I can hear you groaning!

Here is why I am telling you to do more work than (most likely) you have done before for other sweaters, when the pattern says to work in pattern until the piece measures XX” you need to know that XX” pre-block will get a finished blocked gauge of XX”. To use real numbers (note:these are not actual numbers from the pattern): If 12″ pre-block knitting ends up 15″ blocked knitting and you go ahead and knit to the full 12″ pre-block then your sweater is already 3″ too long! See what I mean?

You want your blocked gauge to match the gauge measurement given in the pattern. For the Lipstick, the gauge is what I used to write the pattern and get all the correct finished measurements.

Now, let’s talk a little about hanging gauge. Since the cardigan is heavy I think it is important to know just how much YOUR yarn will stretch after a full day of wearing it. Some yarns will not stretch much but others could stretch WAY MORE than you know. Therefore, to best guess-timate the effect gravity will have on your sweater you should do a hanging gauge swatch. You will then compare the blocked gauge to the hanging gauge to see if there is a difference.

If there is a HUGE difference then I would suggest using a different yarn for this project. You don’t want your finished cardigan to end up looking like a duster coat by the end of the day, right? Since we are all in agreement on this let’s all agree that the hanging gauge is important.

A hanging gauge is simple, after you have measured your blocked swatch clamp it in a pant hanger or anything that will allow the swatch to hang, then pin clothes pins to the bottom of the swatch to simulate gravity. Let it hang for approx. 8 hours (I use this number since most people will wear a piece for around an 8 hour work day). Remove the pins and lay the swatch flat to measure it.

Again, I want to say that if the blocked measurement and the hanging measurement are significantly different (like 2-3″ difference) the yarn you chose might not be the best choice and I would suggest using a different one.

2. Which is more important: Stitch Gauge or Row Gauge? Well, I think the information listed in #1 can tell you that the last thing you want is a larger than listed row gauge. If after doing your swatch you have a spot on stitch gauge but the row gauge is a little smaller I would say that is totally okay. IMHO, getting stitch gauge is more important for this piece.

3. Do you do a gauge swatch for both patterns? YES, you plan on using both in your cardigan, right? Then you must know the gauge measurements for both. Remember, you do this cardigan in pieces so if you get gauge in ST st with size 8/5mm needles but need to go to a larger or smaller needle for the Lace st that is Okay! But you need to know if you need to do that so DO YOUR GAUGE SWATCH! LOL.

Okay, once the gauge swatch is complete let’s choose which size to make. I will put that information in the next post 🙂

I really want to see what you are working on so please be sure to join the Ravelry Group!  Let’s help one another out and make a great sweater!

Rohn Strong, Crochet and Knitwear Designer

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Rohn Strong, Crochet and Knitwear Designer closes out the Month of September on the Yarn Thing with Marly Bird.

RohnStrongprofileRohn learned crochet at age 6, started designing three years ago and to this point self published 13 books, has patterns published in ‘every crochet magazine’ totalling over a hundred patterns. His interest has been in Vintage styles, what he calls his niche. Fashion has been so complex with knitting, but with crochet there has been room to adventure and his work has been welcomed with success.

RSDorothyWrap

Tunisian crochet has become a favorite technique, which he learned after purchasing Kim Guzman’s book. Her advice there was that anything you can do with knitting, can be done with Tunisian crochet. This apparently lit a fire in Rohn, who began to wonder how you would do other types of knitting patterns beyond what Kim taught. Like Fair Isle… and the Dorothy Wrap was created.

Rebecca Valasquez convinced Rohn he needed to do more with it, Ellen Gormley then forwarded it on and gave him a heads-up, and a month later he was approached by a producer to film the technique for Annie’s Crochet.

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Learn Tunisian Crochet Colorwork with Rohn Strong

CLICK HERE for the link to the class at Annies, Rohn’s Learn Tunisian Crochet Colorwork So much information is shared by Rohn in this program, fibers to use, needles sizes recommended for different yarn weights, carrying floats, etc. over the span of four different projects that include headbands, hats, scarves, cowl and a wrap.

Another great project that we have opportunity to join in is Rohn Strong’s Holiday  2014 Crochet Sock Club. This is the link to his post about this: https://rohnstrongdesigns.wordpress.com/2014/09/03/the-official-2014-crochet-sock-club-invitation/ Check it out, as he’s created SOCKS for Crocheters in three different designs, Halloween, Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Rohn is working on two new books, filming more classes with Annies and a collection of men’s wear. (He did mentioned that one of his books is inspired of the Iditerod and projects created in Buffalo Wool Co… How cool is that!) If you would like to follow Rohn’s adventures, we would recommend his Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/rohnstrong as well as his Ravelry page: https://www.ravelry.com/designers/rohn-strong Rohn also mentioned Annie’s Catalog and their Facebook page:  https://www.facebook.com/AnniesCatalog 

Laurinda Reddig Reversible Crochet

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Laurinda Reddig, Reversible Crochet author, was the guest today on the Yarn Thing podcast with Marly Bird. Clearly she has some talent with a hook and fiber as Marly has claimed Laurinda as her very own!LaurindaReddig

Laurinda called in from Portland, Oregon. She told me in the chat room this was her first time on a podcast, but she didn’t admit that before the show, she sounded like this was what she does every day! Perhaps because she’s been listening to the Yarn Thing Podcast since she discovered podcasts, she knows how it’s done…

In Junior High, her Campfire Leader’s house was on the walk home from school, teaching Laurinda to crochet left-handed by sitting in front of her (mirror technique) without making a big deal of it and in fact, Laurinda did not realize she was crocheting differently till years later. She spoke about picking up yarn at K-mart… While in High School, on a roadtrip through Mexico, her father (who is a knitter!) found a little town known for crochet lace and they were invited into a local’s home and she learned to crochet lace. In College, hair nets and snoods were popular and she incorporated that into her wedding attire.

ReddigMysteryMachine She worked at Michael’s Craft Stores and taught crochet, even though she was unsure at first since she crochets left handed, but that worked out until she started having children. When her son was about six, he wanted a Scooby Doo birthday party. According to her Blog, she considered yarn bombing her own car, but in the end creating an afghan she submitted to the Crochet Guild of America which was very warmly received. In fact it won First Place in Afghans and the People’s Choice in the competitions. She began submitting to magazines and one of the contacts she made was with Marcy Smith of Interweave, who asked Laurinda to write an article about the technique involved in reversible crochet…ReddingReversibleRowanVest

Another project that has gained Laurinda much acclaim is her Reversible Rowan Tree Vest.  It was created in memory of her newborn daughter who lived for a few hours after birth. The fabric she’s created is so precise it appears to be painted. She added beads as berries on one side, and blossoms on the other, making a difference in both sides, but otherwise completely reversible. She sent it to the CGOA competition and it won the Grand Prize… She was wearing it at a TNNA gathering when Marly found her!

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https://www.interweavestore.com/reversible-color-crochet-grouped

Her new book, Reversible Color Crochet, incorporates techniques using different sized stitches, carrying yarn invisibly and working partial stitches with the different colors of yarn. The book has detailed instructions and graphics to explain the process. When she was working on an earlier publications, Charles Voth advised her as her tech editor to pursue publishers who liked promoting new techniques.

Laurinda Redding will be teaching her class at Oregon Flock & Fiber Festival (OFFF) on Reversible Intarsia and judging the crochet competition, and later teaching at the Astoria Stitch Fest. We’re going to see more of her as she continues to share her love of this art form.

Follow her at her website: www.ReCrochetions.com. Laurinda also has a Facebook page and Ravelry Design Page with Ravelry Group Page