Long Double Crochet Chevron Cowl Free Pattern

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Bringing your attention to an oldie-but-goodie today. My Colorado Sunrise Cowl is crochet chevron cowl free pattern that uses a unique stitch to create the chevron design. It’s the long double crochet stitch, which I recently mentioned in my roundup of 9 Easy, Interesting Crochet Stitches. Working this stitch, and alternating sunrise-inspired colors, you create a beautiful, vibrant, interesting crochet cowl pattern that’s perfect for chilly spring or summer evenings.

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Colorado Sunrise Crochet Chevron Cowl – Yarn Colors

I named this pattern the Colorado Sunrise Cowl! I named it that because the colors I used remind me so much of a Colorado sunrise. That said, you can easily vary the colors in the cowl to any of your own choosing.

I used Red Heart, “With Love” yarn for this project. It comes in MANY different colors. Choose one that is right for you. I actually made the one that I designed for my sister who looks just wonderful in these sunrise colors.

The cowl is made with only a portion of the yarn in a 315 yds skeins of yarn. I used 4 different colors for this particular crochet chevron cowl but you can use more or fewer colors as you see fit. It is totally up to you! The inly important thing to know is to use whichever color you choose for at least 2 rows so that you get this fantastic chevron look.

Long Double Crochet Chevron Stitch

The chevron look is accomplished by doing the Long Double Crochet Chevron Stitch Pattern. Not sure what that is? NO worries, the YouTube tutorial will take you all the way through each step. 

Crochet Chevron Cowl Free Pattern

PATTERN DETAILS

Measurements

Body of piece: 11″ long (folded in half) and 7 1/2″ wide (including trim).

Yarn

The yarn used for this project is a Worsted (CYC size 4)

Red Heart, “With Love” (100% acrylic, 315 yds/170g)

• Color A (CA): Mango
• Color B (CB): Iced Aqua
• Color C (CC): Tan
• Color D (CD): Candy Pink

Hook

5.5mm/I

Notions

• Tapestry Needle
• Removeable Stitch Markers

Stitches Used (and YouTube Video links to help you learn)

• Chain Stitch
• Single Crochet
• Standing Single Crochet
• Double Crochet
• Crab Stitch (Reverse Single Crochet)

Special Stitch Guide

Long Double Crochet (Ldc): Work a double crochet (dc) in the st indicated one row below the previous row worked. This stitch will be worked around the previous row worked.

FREE PATTERN

Using CA, chain 24.

Foundation Row 1:  3 double crochet (dc) in fourth ch from hook (3 skipped chs count as the first dc), *skip next 3 chs, 3 dc in next ch; rep from * to last 3 chs, dc in last ch–five 3-dc groups.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn; dc in space (sp) before the next 3-dc group [this stitch will be to the right of the next stitch you make], long double crochet (Ldc) in center skipped st one row below, dc in same sp before 30 dc group [this stitch will be to the left of the stitch you just made], *skip 3-dc group, dc in sp before next 3-dc, Ldc in in center skipped st one row below, dc in same sp before 3-dc group; rep from * across to last 4 dc, skip next 3-dc, dc in last dc–five 3-dc groups.

Change colors: change color to CB on last stitch of row, leave the old color hanging out and when it is time to rejoin with a new color float the old color up the side of the work to use it. Then continue on in pattern leaving the _new_ old color (CA) just hanging out. This is my preferred method and it is the one I show you in the youtube video. This method will create a LONG float at each color change along the side that can be hidden with the little trim.

Once you’ve changed colors you carry on in pattern which is SUPER SIMPLE! The next rows are almost exactly like row 2 with the only exception being that instead of working into the skipped ch from the row below you will work into the center dc of the 3-dc group in the row below.

Next 2 rows: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn; dc in space (sp) before the next 3-dc group [this stitch will be to the right of the next stitch you make], long double crochet (Ldc) in center dc of 3-dc group one row below, dc in same sp before 30 dc group [this stitch will be to the left of the stitch you just made], *skip 3-dc group, dc in sp before next 3-dc, Ldc in in center dc of 3-dc group one row below, dc in same sp before 3-dc group; rep from * across to last 4 dc, skip next 3-dc, dc in last dc.

Change colors: change color to CC on last stitch of row, leave the old color hanging out and when it is time to rejoin with a new color float the old color up the side of the work to use it. Then continue on in pattern leaving the _new_ old color (CB) just hanging out.

TIP: Since you are using two colors for this swatch the opposite color of yarn will be waiting for you at one end signaling that it is time to change colors. You can carry the yarn up the side creating floats, or cut the yarn color each time and join a new ball of yarn.

Next 2 rows: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn; dc in space (sp) before the next 3-dc group [this stitch will be to the right of the next stitch you make], long double crochet (Ldc) in center dc of 3-dc group one row below, dc in same sp before 30 dc group [this stitch will be to the left of the stitch you just made], *skip 3-dc group, dc in sp before next 3-dc, Ldc in in center dc of 3-dc group one row below, dc in same sp before 3-dc group; rep from * across to last 4 dc, skip next 3-dc, dc in last dc.

Change colors: change color to CD on last stitch of row, leave the old color hanging out and when it is time to rejoin with a new color float the old color up the side of the work to use it. Then continue on in pattern leaving the _new_ old color (CC) just hanging out.

Next 2 rows: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn; dc in space (sp) before the next 3-dc group [this stitch will be to the right of the next stitch you make], long double crochet (Ldc) in center dc of 3-dc group one row below, dc in same sp before 30 dc group [this stitch will be to the left of the stitch you just made], *skip 3-dc group, dc in sp before next 3-dc, Ldc in in center dc of 3-dc group one row below, dc in same sp before 3-dc group; rep from * across to last 4 dc, skip next 3-dc, dc in last dc.

Change colors: change color to CA on last stitch of row, leave the old color hanging out and when it is time to rejoin with a new color float the old color up the side of the work to use it. Then continue on in pattern leaving the _new_ old color just hanging out (CD). Continue in this established pattern changing colors every 2 rows in the same sequence. Finish with a second row of the CD when you’ve reached the desired length and proceed to the finishing instructions. Do not fasten off the last color as you will use it to seam the cowl. Cut the three other remaining colors leaving a 4-6″ tail. The sample cowl has a total of 6 full 4-color change repeats.

FINISHING

With wrong sides together join the working edge to the foundation chain with a slip stitch join.

Trim

The trim is worked into the edge stitches of the cowl and around the floats to hid them when necessary. Work the following instructions for each edge of the cowl.

Rnd 1: With CB, join yarn at any point on the cowls edge witha standing single crochet. Proceed to single crochet around the edge of the cowl working a total of 5 sc’s evenly spaced every two rows.

NOTE: If you find that doing fewer single crochets looks better for your cowl that is absolutely fine! As long as you are consistent that is all that matters.

TIP: Each color is worked only 2 rows so you can easily keep track of how many single crochets you’ve completed by only doing 5 in each color section.

When you are back to the standing single crochet join with a slip stitch to finish the round.

Rnd 2:  Ch 1, turn; sc in each sc around, join with a slip stitch to the first sc.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, turn; working in the opposite direction do the crab stitch in each single crochet around, join with a slip stitch to the first rev. sc. Fasten off.

Repeat the trim instructions for the other edge of the cowl.

Weave in all loose ends.

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