My First Toe Up Knit Sock || Part 1 of 3
Time to jump in to the 2020 Sockalong with both feet 🙂 Here are the instructions for part 1 of 3 of the My First Toe Up Knit Sock pattern by Marly Bird.
Looking for the My First Toe Up Crochet Sock by Rohn Strong? Get it here!
MEASUREMENTS
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
To Fit Size
Foot Circumference: 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) inches (measure around ball of foot)
Foot Length: Adjustable (measure from heel to toe)
Sock Height: 5 inches from top of heel (adjustable)
Actual Sock Measurements
Foot Circumference: 5.5 (6.5, 7.5, 8.5, 9.5, 10.5) inches
Foot Length: Adjustable
Sock Height: 5 inches from top of heel
Recommended Gauge
32 stitches / 42 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch in the round (you want tight stitches for socks as it helps with the wear of them)
MATERIALS
YARN
Patons Kroy Socks (75% washable wool, 25% nylon super fine weight yarn; 1.75oz/50g; 166yds/152m) 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3) balls OR ANY SOCK WEIGHT YARN
NOTE: we will talk about how to make the socks the same size and Marly wants to make sure the larger sizes have a nice length at the leg which is why they require 1 ball more.
KNITTING NEEDLES
US 2 [2.75 mm] or size to obtain gauge
Depending on what tools you want to use to make socks you will need the following.
- To make socks with 2 circulars: 2 needles, 1 24″ and the other longer than 24″
- To make socks with magic loop: 1 circular longer than 24″
- To make socks with a 9″ circular needle on foot and leg: a 9″ circular needle and you also need a longer than 24″ circular at the toe and heel.
NOTIONS
Tapestry Needle, Stitch markers–both removable and nonremovable. Sock Ruler (optional)
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SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
GSR: German Short Row
LLM1: Left Lifted make-one (M1) increase
PM: place marker
RLM1: Right Lifted make-one (M1) increase
SM: slip marker
SPECIAL STITCHES
GSR: these short rows are worked in such a way that you get a ‘double stitch’ in place of a traditional w&t short row.
- GSR Right side: bring the yarn to the front BETWEEN the needles, slip the stitch from the left needle to the right needle purlwise with the yarn in front pull the yarn to the back of the work OVER top of the right needle. This will distort the stitch making it look as if there are 2 stitches instead of 1. This is called the ‘double stitch’. With yarn in back begin knitting.
- GSR Wrong side: Slip the stitch from the left needle to the right needle purlwise with yarn in front, pull the yarn to the back of the work OVER TOP of the right needle. This will distort the stitch, making it look as if there are 2 stitches instead of 1. This is called the ‘double stitch’. Don’t forget to bring the yarn to the front BETWEEN the needles to begin purling.
Continue in this fashion as specified in your pattern, creating your ‘doubled’ stitches.
To finish the short rows simply knit or purl the double stitch together.
LLM1: Insert left needle tip into the left leg of the second stitch directly under the stitch on the right hand needle (the grandmother stitch), knit it through the back leg. (1 stitch increased)
RLM1: Insert right needle tip into the right leg of the stitch directly under the stitch on the left hand needle (the mother stitch), lift the leg onto the left hand needle and knit it. (1 stitch increased)
NOTES
Whether working on 2 circulars or on magic loop, the stitches are always divided on two needles. Needle 1: instep stitches; Needle 2: sole stitches. When the end of one needle has been reached, rotate the work so the stitches just worked are on the bottom. Move the bottom stitches to the cord and the unworked stitches to the next needle and continue on to work in the round.
⭐️ indicates extra explanation of instructions
???? indicates video tutorial available
PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS
TOE
???? Watch video for part 1, cast-on, toe and foot: https://youtu.be/zMCG370e5DA
Using Judy’s Magic Cast-on cast-on 16 (16, 20, 24, 24, 28) stitches.
⭐️Make it so half the stitches are each of two needles if using 2 circulars, or ⭐️Distribute so that half of the stitches are on each tip if using magic loop
Knit 1 round evenly.
⭐️First half of stitches are instep, Second half of stitches are sole.
⭐️Place a marker on the needle with the instep stitches so you can identify that as needle 1 whether doing 2 circulars or magic loop.
Round 1 (increase round):
Needle 1: K1, PM, RLM1 (see special stitches), knit to 1 stitch before end of instep stitches, LLM1 (see special stitches), K1,
Needle 2: K1, RLM1, knit to 1 stitch before end of instep stitches, LLM1, K1.
4 stitches increased.
Round 2: Knit
Repeat ends 1 and 2 until there are 44 (52, 60, 68, 76, 84) stitches.
⭐️This is the total of stitches for the sock and should measure the actual sock measurement listed above if you achieved gauge.
FOOT
⭐️Before continuing, use a removable stitch marker to mark an actual stitch in the center of the sole (needle 2). This will insure a perfectly matching second sock.
⭐️If you want to switch to a 9 inch circular needle, now is the time to do it as you work in even rounds for the foot of the sock. Keep the marker in place to indicate the start of the rounds.
Knit evenly in rounds until the sock measures 1.5 (1.5, 2, 2, 2.5, 2.5) inches shorter than desired total foot length ending after 22 (26, 30, 34, 38, 42) stitches have been worked (half the total sock)
⭐️If you switched to a 9 inch circular needle, now is the time to transfer the sole stitches onto another circular needle. The 9 inch needle will remain in place acting as a stitch holder for the instep stitches (keep the marker in place to indicate the start of the rounds), and the new needle will act as needle 2 and will have the sole stitches worked on it.
⭐️Before continuing, use another removable stitch marker to mark an actual stitch in the center of the sole (needle 2). This will insure a perfectly matching second sock.
⭐️This is a great place to add a life line. ????Watch video for how to do a life line: https://youtu.be/FiqYUE_aHAw
