Time for the first ever Tournament of Stitches 2020 with Marly Bird. This Knitting Border.
If you missed any of the sections, go back to the original blog post and get all the details you need. You must complete each previous part of the mystery project before you can move on to the next.
Remember, should you have any questions please be sure to post in dedicated thread for Tournament of Stitches Week 5 in the Marly’s Minions Facebook Group!
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MEASUREMENTS
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS: 9.5” wide, 90” tall
GAUGE: 18 sts x 22 rows = 4” [10 cm] in garter stitch (knit on every row). Use any size needle to obtain the gauge. Exact gauge is not critical to this project.
MATERIALS
Yarn: Sample was made with Red Heart Chic Sheep by Marly Bird™ (100% wool, 3.5 oz / 100 g, 186 yd / 170 m)
- Color A: Dragon Fruit (1 ball)
- Color B: Linen (3 balls)
- Color C: Platinum (3 balls)
It is possible to choose any worsted weight yarn but I highly recommend that a solid color be used for color A and C, a long color changing or ombre yarn could be used for B if you wish.
Needles: Size 8 (5 mm) and 9 (5.5 mm) needles
Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle
SPECIAL STITCHES
Slip- Insert the tip of the right knitting needle in the next stitch on the left knitting needle from back to front as if to purl. Slide the stitch off the left knitting needle onto the right knitting needle. Make sure you are holding the yarn to the wrong side of the work when slipping. This means it needs to be held to the back when on a right side row and the yarn needs to be held to the front on a wrong side row.
NOTES
Mosaic Knitting is created by a combination knit and slip stitches. You use one color at a time for 2 rows then switch colors. In mosaic knit charts, there are two colors shown. For our project the white squares are color B and the gray squares are color C.
When reading a color B row (meaning you are currently using color B), you will knit when the square is white and you will slip the stitch purlwise when the square is gray. On a color C row, you will do the reverse and knit gray squares and slip white squares.
The first stitch helps to tell you if it is a color B or C row. Each line on the chart represents 2 rows in your work. So you read the chart from right to left for odd rows and left to right for even rows. When working an even row, you will knit all the stitches in the color you are currently using and slip the other color stitches. Just make sure on even rows that you move your yarn to the front before you slip your stitch.
To help alleviate tangles in your balls of yarn; always bring up your new color behind the previous color. When working the mosaic section, you will carry the yarn up the side of your work. When you get to the strip of 10 rows of garter stitch in color A, you will cut the yarn and join fresh for the next mosaic section.
BORDER
If making a scarf: use any color you wish for the final border of attached i-cord.
Cast on 4 stitches.
Row 1 (RS): Pick up and knit 1 stitch in the corner of the scarf (the same spot at the last stitch from bind off), slip the 5 stitches from the right hand needle back to the left hand needle (slip them through the back leg so you don’t change the orientation of the stitch). K3, ssk (1 stitch from the original 4 and the newly picked up and knit stitch).
Row 2 (RS): Pick up and knit 1 stitch along the edge of the scarf, slip the 5 stitches from the right hand needle back to the left hand needle (slip them through the back leg so you don’t change the orientation of the stitch). K3, ssk (1 stitch from the original 4 and the newly picked up and knit stitch).
Repeat row 2 to the corner of scarf.
1st, 2nd, and 3rd corner of applied i-cord
Row 1 (RS): Pick up and knit 1 stitch in the corner of the scarf, slip the 5 stitches from the right hand needle back to the left hand needle (slip them through the back leg so you don’t change the orientation of the stitch). K3, ssk (1 stitch from the original 4 and the newly picked up and knit stitch). Slip the 4 stitches from the right hand needle back to the left hand needle.
Row 2 (RS): K4 stitches.
Row 3 (RS): Pick up and knit 1 stitch in the SAME corner stitch of the scarf, slip the 5 stitches from the right hand needle back to the left hand needle (slip them through the back leg so you don’t change the orientation of the stitch). K3, ssk (1 stitch from the original 4 and the newly picked up and knit stitch).
Row 4 (RS): Pick up and knit 1 stitch along the edge of the scarf, slip the 5 stitches from the right hand needle back to the left hand needle (slip them through the back leg so you don’t change the orientation of the stitch). K3, ssk (1 stitch from the original 4 and the newly picked up and knit stitch).
*Repeat row 4 to the next corner, the repeat rows 1-3 at the corner; repeat from * 2 times more. This should bring you back to the start of the round.
Final Finishing Scarf
Once all the edges on the scarf have been worked with the applied i-cord you will have 4 stitches remaining on the needle.
Seam the 4 stitches of the i-cord you have on your knitting needle together with the cast on edge of the i-cord. The easiest way to do it is to use a simple overhand stitch.
The best way to do it is to graft the stitches so that the i-cord looks seamless.
WEAVE IN YOUR ENDS
WASH AND BLOCK YOUR SCARF ???? THIS IS THE FINISHING TOUCH AND ONE YOU SHOULDN’T SKIP, ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE USING WOOL.
If making a cowl: seam together the cast on edge to the bind off edge to form a ring. Work the following applied i-cord on both edges of the cowl. Use any color you wish; the cowl would look lovely with each edge a different color 🙂
Cast on 4 stitches.
Row 1 (RS): Pick up and knit 1 stitch in the seam point of the cowl, slip the 5 stitches from the right hand needle back to the left hand needle (slip them through the back leg so you don’t change the orientation of the stitch). K3, ssk (1 stitch from the original 4 and the newly picked up and knit stitch).
Row 2 (RS): Pick up and knit 1 stitch along the edge of the cowl, slip the 5 stitches from the right hand needle back to the left hand needle (slip them through the back leg so you don’t change the orientation of the stitch). K3, ssk (1 stitch from the original 4 and the newly picked up and knit stitch).
Repeat row 3 around.
Once the edge of the cowl has been worked with the applied i-cord you will have 4 stitches remaining on the needle.
Seam the 4 stitches of the i-cord you have on your knitting needle together with the cast on edge of the i-cord. The easiest way to do it is to use a simple overhand stitch.
The best way to do it is to graft the stitches so that the i-cord looks seamless.
Final Finishing Cowl
Once the edge of the cowl has been worked with the applied i-cord you will have 4 stitches remaining on the needle.
Seam the 4 stitches of the i-cord you have on your knitting needle together with the cast on edge of the i-cord. The easiest way to do it is to use a simple overhand stitch.
The best way to do it is to graft the stitches so that the i-cord looks seamless.
WEAVE IN YOUR ENDS
WASH AND BLOCK YOUR COWL ???? THIS IS THE FINISHING TOUCH AND ONE YOU SHOULDN’T SKIP, ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE USING WOOL.
SPECIAL STITCHES OR TECHNIQUES VIDEO HELP
Video for attached i-cord on finished item: https://youtu.be/miMbWk3FW4s